The heating element is the element of the washing machine responsible for heating the water during the washing process. It is located at the bottom of the tank and fails quite often. Even a high-quality Bosch machine may need to replace the heating element, let alone such budget brands as LG, Samsung or Atlant. In this case, to replace the heater, you can call a specialist or decide to remove the old heating element with your own hands. To do this, you must first determine where the heater is located and then remove it.
How to get to the heater
The first difficulty facing washing machine owners may be access to the heater. The thing is that in some machines it can be accessed through the back of the case, and in others through the front panel. To easily find out where exactly the part we are looking for is located, carefully inspect the machine.
Take a look first at the back surface of its body - if the part that can be removed is quite large, then most likely you can get to the heating element from the back of the machine. If you find that only a small area can be removed from the back, then most likely the heater is located in the front. If in doubt, first unscrew the back cover, because this is much easier to do than dismantling the front panel.
Note that the location of the heater at the rear is typical for machines of such brands as Zanussi, Candy, Hotpoint Ariston, Indesit, Ardo and Electrolux. But manufacturers Bosch and Samsung most often place heating elements at the front. To access the heater on top-loading models, one of the side walls must be removed.
How to remove the heater
Before removing the heating element, it is important to drain the water from the machine into a previously prepared container, and also make sure that the device is disconnected from the network.
- Unscrew the required cover of the machine and find the heater.
- Disconnect the wires that go to the heating element.
- Unscrew the nut that is located in the middle, and then drive the pin that was connected to the nut inside. To do this, press it firmly or lightly tap it with a hammer.
- Having picked up the heater (use a knife or screwdriver for this), carefully remove the heating element from the tank.
- Check the functionality of the part.
You can clearly see this whole process in the video below.
Installation of heating elements
Insert the repaired or new heater into the hole and make sure that the part is in the same position as it was before removal. You want to get a tight fit. Next, holding the heating element with your hand, carefully tighten the nut. Finally, you need to return the wires to their place. Now all that remains is to turn on the test wash by selecting a program that heats the water to +600C. If the water gets hot, you can secure the removed wall and return the washing machine to its place.
The washing machine has stopped heating water during washing. The malfunction in 99% of cases lies in the failure of the heating element - the heating element. The cause of the breakdown is deposits of scale, dirt, etc. on the heating element, due to which heat transfer deteriorates and the heating element coil burns out. So, how to replace the heating element in a lg washing machine?
The heating element in an automatic washing machine must always be in water during operation, therefore it is installed at the rear. To replace it you need:
Make sure that the washing machine is disconnected from the electrical network. Then remove the back cover of the machine by unscrewing 4 or more screws. The heating element is observed under the drum pulley (or under the electric motor in LG machines with).
For ease of operation, you can remove the drive belt. Next, remove three wires from the heating element terminals: two supply and one, plus a connector from the temperature sensor, if it is installed on the heating element.
Loosen the nut on the central screw of the heating element by 5-6 turns and push the screw inward to this distance.
Using two flat screwdrivers, pry up and remove the heating element. This operation will require little effort, because... the sealing rubber of the heating element can be strongly compressed when installing the heating element and the resulting rim will not allow the heating element to be immediately removed (typical of SMA Atlant).
5 reasons why the washing machine does not heat the water
The washing machine does not heat the water
The water in the washing machine does not heat up at all or does it heat up, but very poorly and somehow weakly? Today we will look at this problem and you will find out what to do in this case.
Poor heating of water in the washing machine during the washing process is noticeable almost immediately. This can be determined by placing your hand against the glass of the closed door of the washing machine (Attention! Do this carefully, as carelessness can cause burns if the water is heated to very high temperatures). Also, such a malfunction is noticeable by the poor quality of the washed laundry.
If 20-30 minutes after the start of washing the water has not changed its temperature (did not become warmer or hotter), then this may be the first alarm signal. It is possible that the washing machine has stopped heating the water, and the cost of repair will depend on the reason specifically in your case.
Different models of washing machines behave differently in the event of problems with water heating. Most often, modern models of washing machines (you can read about the history of the development of washing machines here) stop the washing process at the moment when, according to the program, water heating should begin, and issue an error signal.
Simpler models can continue to wash clothes as if nothing had happened in cold water. As a result, the washing machine washes with cold water, finishing the wash with rinsing as usual. This behavior can be observed when the water heating in the washing machine does not work. By the way, about how and what works - we have a good article where you can find out how a dishwasher works. 
So, we give 5 reasons why a washing machine may refuse to heat water:
Incorrect connection of the washing machine. Sometimes, in cases where they skimp on the quality of the washing machine connection, the problem of unauthorized drainage of water into the sewer arises. In such a situation, the water in the tank simply does not have time to heat up to the required temperature, since warm water is constantly being drained into the sewer and a new cold portion is automatically added. It should be noted that another malfunction is associated with the unauthorized behavior of water, which is discussed in the article “Water collects in the washing machine. We are looking for the reason.”
Wrong choice of washing program. The washing machine does not heat up simply because this washing mode is currently selected. How is this possible? This may be simple inattention, which manifests itself in choosing the wrong program. Or it may be some feature of the choice of programs for a particular model. It’s just that in some models it happens that the choice of washing program and water temperature is carried out using different knobs/switches. For example, you set the temperature mode selection knob to 95 degrees. But the program selection knob was set to a mode that provided a temperature of only 60 degrees. Typically, the selected program has priority and the separately selected temperature mode of 95 degrees is simply ignored. Read the instructions for your washing machine if in any doubt.
The heating element (tubular electric heater) has burned out. It's simple - the water does not heat up because the heating element - the main character in this matter, so to speak - has failed:) There are several reasons for failure - power surges, short circuits, manufacturing defects, age (heating elements with our water quality last on average 3 -5 years). In this case, replacing the heating element with an experienced specialist will help.
The thermostat (water temperature control sensor) is faulty. Depending on the model of the washing machine, the thermostat can be located either in the heating element itself or separately on the surface of the tank. It monitors the water temperature and gives signals to heat the water if necessary.
The control module (programmer) is faulty. What could happen to him? Yes, anything, starting with bad contacts (for example, microcracks on the tracks) on the board and ending with a firmware crash. As a result, the module (the main brain center of the washing machine) begins to malfunction, and along with this, the entire operation of the washing machine is disrupted. In some cases, the module can be repaired (on site or at a service center), and in others it can only be replaced with a new one.
We looked at the 5 main reasons why the washing machine does not heat the water. This problem can be successfully resolved by our experienced washing machine repair specialists.
Of course, you can decide to fix the machine yourself, but is it worth spending your precious time on mastering the skills of repairing a washing machine? You don't study hairdressing when you want to get a haircut and don't turn into a dentist when you have a toothache? Our technicians will carry out diagnostics, accurately determine the cause of the breakdown, and then make high-quality repairs and provide a guarantee.
A simple operation to replace the heating element
Washing machine: LG WD-80154N Ag-nano (Argentum-nano) in home use since 01/08/2007 (5.5 years). Medium hard tap water.
Symptom of malfunction: no water heating.
Required: Phillips screwdriver, any combination device (tester) with an ohmmeter
Procedure: unplug from the socket and turn off the water supply, drain the remaining water from the system using a drain hose from the bottom of the machine, if there is one, remove the back cover of the washing machine (I had 4 cross-mounted screws around the perimeter). Carefully inspect the installation for burning contacts, suspicious changes in the color of the wires and darkening of the connectors, brittleness of the insulation (in places of poor contact).
Find in the lower part of the tank the elongated base of a heating element (tubular electric heater) with heating element tubes protruding from it and welded petals of detachable connections. In the center of the base of the heating element we see a tightening nut with a spanner size of 10. Depending on the manufacturer, a sensor can be installed in the base (on my model the sensor is installed directly in the tank next to the heating element.
slightly rocking to the sides, we disconnect 2 terminals from the terminals of the heating element and measure its resistance (should be about 30 ohms), as well as the insulation resistance between one of the terminals and the base of the heating element (hundreds of kilo-ohms or more)
If there is clearly a large resistance between the terminals of the heating element, and the insulation resistance is low, then the heating element spiral has burned out, the heating element shell is damaged and water has entered the tube.
Removing the heating element: carefully inspect the connector of the sensor installed in the base of the heating element, determine the presence of latches and how to disconnect the connector from the sensor (do not do this if the sensor is separate from the heating element); try not to pull the wires when disconnecting the sensor connector. On heating elements with a sensor, it is more convenient to unscrew the clamping nut with a 10mm head; if there is no sensor, an open-end wrench will do (the whole tool can be purchased separately for pennies) 
The grounding wire is connected to the base of the heating element either to a terminal welded to the base or to a stud for a clamping nut using a washer with a petal at the end of the grounding wire
After unscrewing the clamping nut of the heating element, do not pry it with a flat screwdriver to avoid breaking the plastic tank. It is enough to slightly recess the central clamping pin into the inside of the tank and swing the heating element by the tubes protruding outward. When removing the heating element from the tank, be careful, since the heating element may be deformed, and excessive force will lead to damage to the sealing edge around the perimeter of the hole in the plastic tank or even to a crack in the tank. If the edge is partially damaged, the seal can still be ensured with silicone sealant.
After removing the heating element, place a table lamp in the drum from the loading side and inspect the condition of the tank, the outer wall of the washing drum, and the steel bracket for securing the heating element in the tank. There is a lot of dirt on the bracket.
Looking through the hole, I was pleased to find that the outside of my drum was clean and shiny after 5.5 years of continuous use. This means spending money on Calgon is, to put it mildly, not practical.
Using a piece of wire with a squiggle at the end, we pick out dirt and debris from the bottom of the tank, wipe the hole under the heating element and especially the sealing edge well with a clean rag.
When going to the store, you need to take an old heating element with you so as not to miss its length (the long one simply won’t fit, and the short one won’t reach the fixing bracket on the bottom of the tank)
As it turned out, the connecting size is the same for all types of heating elements. Price 600-800 rub. I have a heating element 230 V 1900 W without a sensor, but there weren’t any of those in stock, so I bought one that was the right size with a sensor of the same power, a little more expensive. Installing a heating element with a lower power can increase the washing time, and choosing a heating element with a higher power than was installed leads to an overload (failure) of the keys (relays) of the electronic control unit - an expensive pleasure.
When installing the heating element into the tank, move it forward, lightly pressing it against the bottom of the tank in order to get the heating element tubes into the fixing bracket. In models from other manufacturers it may be different, look locally. Firmly pressing the heating element to the socket in the tank, tighten the clamping nut on the central stud. The pressure plate on the inside will be attracted to the base of the heating element, the compressed rubber seal will rest against the edge of the hole and seal the connection. When tightening the nut, you should not use a screwdriver without knowing the factory tightening torque; it is better to do it manually, so as not to miss the moment of a significant increase in the resistance of the wrench. Next, tighten the nut a quarter turn. Next, lightly (just a little) tighten the terminals on the wires with pliers to ensure reliable contact and connect them to the petals of the heating element. depending on the model, we place the grounding wire with a washer at the end under the second nut on the central stud (we put the grounding wire terminal on the grounding petal at the base of the heating element).
Depending on the model, we connect the connector of the sensor built into the base of the heating element, paying attention to the slots (grooves, protrusions) of the connector. We put the back cover in place and test the washing machine, during the process we monitor the absence of water leakage until the end of the washing cycle (it is advisable not to leave the washing machine unattended for several more washes for reliability).
In any case, I succeeded and I am quite pleased.
A breakdown of a washing machine can be called the biggest tragedy in the home in the domestic sphere, because... Linen is washed quite often, and many have forgotten how to do it manually. Along with other malfunctions, the heating element, the heating element, most often fails. This is facilitated by both the quality of water and the composition of washing powders. Over time, limescale adheres to the surface of the heater tube, which forms a thick stone crust, which prevents the passage of heat to the water and, as a result, causes overheating and burnout of the heating coil.
Another reason may be electrochemical corrosion of the heating element tube due to the high degree of concentration of anions and ions in the water passing through the water heater. Loss of tightness of the tube with the heating coil leads to a short circuit and failure of the heating element.
The durability of the element is affected by the metal of the tube (preferably it should be made of stainless steel), the quality of the water, and the reliability of the grounding of the washing machine body.
How to check the serviceability of the heating element of a washing machine
It is advisable to do preventive maintenance of the internal surfaces of the washing machine, including containers for collecting detergents and powder, regularly, at least once every 3 months if you wash frequently. For this purpose, special chemicals are used, such as anti-scale agents, for example EONA.
They can be either liquid or powder, which must be poured directly into the cavity of the washing drum. But this procedure still does not guarantee high-quality cleaning of the heating element from scale.
Therefore, if you have been using a washing machine for many years, it would be a good idea to remove the heating element for inspection and more thorough cleaning.
This procedure will also be required in the event of an obvious breakdown of this important part of the washing machine. Moreover, in some cases, if a simplified automation unit is used, if the heater is faulty, the machine will wash as before, without giving any indication of a breakdown. In modern “smart” models, protection should work. It is quite easy to identify such a breakdown based on simple signs:
- there was an unpleasant smell from the laundry after washing;
- laundry is not washed;
- The glass of the laundry hatch remains cold.
If all this is observed, then you can look for a heating element for your washing machine model in the online store. Usually it costs 500-700 rubles. But before buying, it’s still worth checking something by removing the back wall of the unit - perhaps the wire has simply come loose, although this is unlikely, because The contacts are attached very securely. Modern connection designs are simplified and limited to standard push-on terminals.
Before you undertake the repair yourself
If you decide to do it yourself, you should first consider that a washing machine is a household appliance that has a large number of components and parts that may have to be unscrewed and removed to get to the desired element. A set of standard tools that every family usually has, straight hands and memory will help with this in order to assemble everything correctly in the reverse order. Overall, not that difficult.
What tools will you need?
- a flathead and Phillips screwdriver with a medium blade size;
- wrench tube 8 by 10;
- pliers;
- multimeter for measuring voltages and resistance (optional).
Preparatory steps
Before disassembling the washing machine, you should follow a number of simple but mandatory steps that will ensure your work safety.
Disconnect the washing machine from the electricity by unplugging the plug from the socket.
Shut off the water supply to the water intake hose. To do this, they usually make a separate valve in the closet where the general water supply pipes to the apartment are located.
Open the lid on the front bottom of the machine and drain the water from the filter of the water drain pump. To do this, each machine has a separate large screw-on lid.
Before this procedure, you should prepare in advance microfiber cloths and a basin to collect water from the floor. As a rule, it is not possible to place any flat container under the filter cover because its height (the lower part of the cover) is too low.
After draining the water, remove the filter and clean it of any possible elements. You might find buttons or coins there. Look into the hole using a flashlight. If everything is clean, install the filter in its original place and position and screw the cap tightly. Reinstall the front panel by pressing down on the latches.
Now carefully turn the machine with its back to the entrance to the bathtub (most have the machine installed there), if the bathtub is crowded. To make this easy, first place cardboard under the legs. Find the screws on the back cover of the machine and check if anything is preventing it from being removed. Mark the exact screws that hold the cover in place. It's better not to touch others. Unscrew these screws and remove the cover.
It is worth noting that we are considering the classic arrangement of washing machine elements, where the main repair work is carried out from the back. But there are models with a different arrangement. Please refer to the instructions to clarify the design of the device.
Dismantling electrical contacts and heating elements
In most cases, the heating element is located under the tank. It looks (or rather, the part with contacts) like an oval block with three contacts and a nut in the middle. The last one is fastening the heating element through the sealing collar.
Before dismantling the heating element, remove the terminals from the contacts, remembering which one was located. Disconnect the ground wire terminal in the center, as well as, by bending the clip in the connector, the block with the temperature sensor wires.
Now it's up to the central nut. Carefully unscrew it, without removing it completely, and press inward. This is necessary so that the rubber cuff compressed inside decreases in profile and ensures free exit of the heater from the installation socket of the washing tank. To push the nut with the stud inside, you may need to tap it with a hammer through some piece of wood so as not to spoil the thread.
After the pin is pushed in, carefully remove the heater from the tank socket. Because The edges of the heating element flange are sharp; it is worth protecting your fingers with gloves in advance. The pulling forces can be quite large and it may be necessary to pry off the sealing rubber with a screwdriver. In this you should be careful and patient, without using excessive force and without damaging the tank and heating element with tools.
Once the element is finally completely removed, the moment of truth comes - the heating element may be in good condition with a clean surface, which indicates high-quality detergents and not hard water. Or there will be a deposit of scale on it, which you will have to get rid of by placing the working part of the tube in a basin with anti-scale. After cleaning the surface of the heater tubes, wipe them dry and remove any contamination from the rubber seal. Now it is like new and can be used again.
If you already guessed that the heater is out of order and have already bought a spare one (usually the heating element is suitable for different models of machines and costs from 600 to 800 rubles), simply replace it by installing it in its original place.
To complete the repair and maintenance, perform all operations in reverse order, tightening the seal nut, screwing the contacts and connecting the ground terminal. Install the cover and screw it in place.
If you encounter other problems with your washing machine, this workshop will allow you to fix other items. For example, you can easily replace a worn drive belt. Or, if the machine does not start, the reason is probably due to worn-out carbons of the electric motor rotor contacts (two rectangular rods on copper wires with springs).
You can easily determine this if you remove them from a special compartment on the machine engine and measure the size of the rods. It should not be less than permissible for a given model of the unit.
Tubular electric heater(TEN) - heating element of the washing machine. It is the heating element that heats the cold water coming from the water supply in any washing unit.
If the car doesn't heat well or not at all doesn't heat up water, most likely it is faulty or the heating element has already burned out.
If the heating element is still working, it is enough to produce it cleaning. Faulty electric heater repair Not subject to and replaced to a similar new one.
Is it possible for a person unfamiliar with technology to check and replace the heating element in a washing machine? How to replace the heating element?
Without heating the water, washing most types of fabrics is ineffective. Although delicate laundry can be washed in cold water (30-40?), the majority of items require heating the water to 90-95? . Only in this hot Water removes stubborn stains.
A fault is detected Heating element in two ways:
- 10-15 minutes after the start of washing at high temperature, touch the glass of the hatch. The glass must be warm. If it is cold, the machine does not heat the water.
- After washing at high temperatures, the laundry remains cold. This test will be correct if a regime has been set that does not involve rinsing clothes in cold water.
Most “smart” modern washing units are equipped with a system self-diagnosis. The corresponding message indicates that the water is not heating up. error code.
If, after 10 minutes from the start of the cycle, the washing equipment stops, and the display shows an incomprehensible combination of letters and numbers, you need to look at the instructions.
You can also find a breakdown of error codes for washing equipment from different brands on our website in the “ ” section.
Electric heater- this is a tube (it comes in different shapes), inside of which there is a spiral and a dielectric.
There are two possible breakdowns washing machine electric heater:
- Internal- failure of the spiral or dielectric. During the operation of the washing machine, the heating element’s coil either heats up or cools down, so over time it simply loses its properties. The dielectric may begin to pass current to the body of the machine.
- External- scale. Unfortunately, the quality of tap water in the homes of many Russians leaves much to be desired. Even installing a special water purification filter does not always save the heating element from the accumulation of hard water impurities on its surface.
The folk method of cleaning heating elements is known to every housewife. Having poured citric acid into the powder receptacle, you need to run a long wash cycle without laundry at the highest possible temperature.
Where is the heating element in the washing machine and how to access it?
To remove the old electric heater and install a new one, you need to partially disassemble washing machine. Accordingly, you need physical strength, dexterity and at least minimal knowledge of how technology works.
From tools you will need:
- spanners,
- Screwdriver Set.
The heating element in washing machines of different models and brands is located at the bottom of the tank at the back or front.
Gain access to the heating element located behind washing machine tank, not too difficult. Need to:
- Disconnect the machine from the network.
- Shut off access to water.
- Drain the remaining water from the washing machine through the drain filter. For information on how to do this, read “”.
- Disconnect the drain and water supply hoses.
- Unscrew the screws holding the back cover and remove it.
Get to the heating element in front parts of the machine are more complex:
- Disconnect the machine from the network.
- Shut off access to water.
- Unscrew the screws holding the top cover and remove it.
- Disconnect the latch holding the powder receptacle and remove it.
- Remove the iron clamp hidden in the rubber seal of the hatch and holding it in place. To do this, you need to loosen the spring of the clamp.
- Remove the seal from the front panel and tuck it inside the tank.
- Disconnect the wires from the sunroof locking device.
- Unscrew all the screws holding the front panel, carefully lift and remove it.
How to find out where the heating element is if its location is unknown? Eat three ways:
- Approximately. If the back cover of the washing machine wall is large, there is a heating element at the back.
- By brand. In Ariston, Indesit, Candy, Electrolux, Whirlpool, Zanussi machines, the heating element is usually at the back, while for Bosch, LG and Samsung it is at the front. If the machine is top-loading, the heating element may be on the side. To get to it, you will need to remove the side panel (the easiest way to access the heating element).
- Experienced way. Since the back wall of the washing machine is easier to dismantle, you can start disassembling the unit from there. If the heating element is not at the bottom of the tank at the back, then it is in the front and you need to move on to disassembling the front panel.
The tubular electric heater is mounted into the plastic tank of the washing machine from below. Only the end part is visible from the outside.
The heating element is held in place by one nut on a stud and a seal inside. In the heating element itself there is one more important thing to do in a washing machine - a water heating temperature sensor.
First step in dismantling the electric heater of a washing machine - disconnect:
- wires from the temperature sensor,
- heating element power terminals,
- ground wires (if any).
Second step. Unscrewing the nut. A socket or open-end wrench is suitable for this procedure. The nut is not unscrewed completely, but until the start of the stud.
Third step. Press the stud, as if to drown it inwards up to the nut. Now you can unscrew the nut completely.
Fourth step. Gradually rocking and prying with a flat screwdriver from different sides, remove the heating element out.
Not every water heater is easy to remove. There is no need to rush, nor do you need to put in too much effort. If you act roughly, you can damage the rubber band or bend the tank body.
After the heating element is removed, you can remove the temperature sensor from it.
Fifth step. Checking the heating element. This stage requires special consideration.
The performance of the heating element is checked visually by the amount of scale on it, as well as with a special device - multimeter.
In the heating element, both the spiral and the dielectric are checked.
First you need to solve a physics problem.
The resistance of the heating element is equal to the square of the voltage supplied to it, divided by the power of the heater itself.
It is known that:
- U - voltage, supplied to the electric heater. Usually in household sockets 220 V.
- P - heating element power. It should be indicated in the instructions for the washing machine or on its body. For example, the power is 2000 W.
We substitute the data into the formula and get: R=220?/2000 W=24.2 Ohm. This normal heating element resistance. If it is working properly, the multimeter will show exactly this figure or close to it.
To measure the resistance of the heating element multimeter you need:
- Set the multimeter to resistance measurement mode and set it to 200 ohms.
- Simultaneously touch the two probes of the multimeter to the terminals of the electric heater.
- Look at the multimeter display.
If the display shows “ 1 " or " ? ” - the heating element is broken, “ 0 ” - internal short circuit. Conclusion: the spiral in the heating element is not working.
If highlighted figure close to the calculated one (in the example it is 24.2 Ohm), heating element OK, the spiral inside it is intact.
To check dielectric Heating element (can cause a breakdown of current on the machine body), you need:
- Switch the multimeter to dialing mode and set it to the “Buzzer” mark.
- Touch the heating element terminal with one multimeter probe.
- Use the second probe to touch the body of the heating element or the ground terminal.
If the device beeps, the dielectric passes current to the body of the washing machine, heating element faulty. If there is no sound, everything is in order and the problem of lack of water heating should be looked for in another unit of the washing unit.
If, according to the diagnostic results, the tubular electric heater turns out to be inoperative, it is replaced with a new one, similar to the old one.
Procedure installation of a new heating element:
If the electric heater installation has been completed Right, there will be no problems with washing. After about 15 minutes from the start of the machine operation, the hatch glass will become warm.
At wrong installation of a new heating element is possible leaks water or the washing machine will again display an error code on the display.
Checking and replacing the heating element of a washing machine is a labor-intensive task. For a non-professional, such repairs can result not only in loss of time, effort and money, but also in serious domestic injuries.
Amateur repairs are also fraught with aggravation of the breakdown situation, often with complete failure of the washing machine.
Don't risk your equipment and your health! Entrust the diagnostics of your washing machine and the replacement of the heating element to an experienced, certified, highly qualified VseRemont24 technician!
In most cases, the cause of cold water during washing is a malfunction of the heating element.
And this is easy to check with your own hands.
Replacing the heating element of a washing machine is a simple operation and you can do it yourself.
- Signs of malfunction:
Cold water when washing more than 40 degrees
The machine knocks out, plugs in the electrical panel
After starting the wash, the machine immediately drains the water
- How to check the heating element?
An option to check is to directly disconnect the wires and measure the resistance with a tester.
The heating element is always located at the bottom of the tank.
In washing machines Indesit, Ariston, LG, Ardo, remove the back wall:
Bosch, Siemens, Samsung - front panel:
Having reached the heating element, we dismantle the wires. There are three of them - two supply, grounding.
There may also be a wire to the temperature control sensor. We check for a break with a tester - the resistance is about 30 Ohms.
If the device does not show anything, it means there is a break in the “boiler” - it needs to be replaced.
We also check the “short” on the body.
We measure the resistance between each power terminal (one by one) and the grounding bolt. When the resistance tester indicates a short circuit to the washing machine body.
Option by measuring resistance through connectors on the Electrolux, Zanussi and Aeg boards:
In this case, you need to know which wires go from the heating element to the control module
- Which heating element is suitable for replacement?
The power is not important, the water will simply heat up faster or a little longer, this will not affect the quality of the wash.
The length of the elastic band on which it is attached is 1.5 cm or less - for an iron tank, and if its shape is elongated and more than 1.5 cm, then such a heater is for plastic tanks.
Pay attention to the dimensions of your old heating element. (measured from the flange) ± 1 cm is not critical.
The shape, bend, presence of a hole for the sensor, and the number of terminals must match.
- How to replace heating element correctly?
We unscrew the central nut, but not all the way. We press on the bolt and push it into the inside of the tank.
Using improvised means, we pry it up and carefully remove it from the tank.
We clean the seat from dirt and scale deposits, check the tank for the absence of foreign objects.
We select a specimen of the same mounting size to avoid water leakage. We assemble it in the reverse order, connect the wires and check for water heating.
- How to extend the service life of the heating element:
No, you don’t need to disassemble and clean anything, and it won’t work. It is enough to clean the machine once every three months with citric acid.
The technology is incredibly simple: pour 50 - 70 grams of powder into the powder tray. the above-mentioned substance and run the machine without laundry in the washing mode at the highest temperature.
If the water is very hard, then use an anti-scale agent once every six months to remove lime deposits.
Additional articles.