Methods for filling a closed heating system. How to fill water into a closed heating system with or without plumbing? How to properly install a heating expansion tank

Heating a home using liquid coolant is the most popular. The reliability of heating systems consisting of sets of equipment and pipelines depends on the coolant and its characteristics. The task of the coolant is to transfer the maximum amount of thermal energy at minimal cost.

Replacing one type of coolant with another is done to increase the efficiency of the heating system. But before you pump or replace new coolant into the system, you need to select the coolant itself.

The cheapest coolant is water. But the use of water is not always justified. Water should be used in heating systems that are not subject to corrosion. The use of water as a heat carrier has certain reservations. Such a coolant must be processed by distillation, this will protect the heating system from the formation of scale in it. The use of water that freezes at zero temperatures can destroy pipes in the event of an emergency shutdown.

Injecting special “anti-freeze” agents as a coolant allows you to ensure high-quality operation of the home heating system. The market for manufacturers of antifreeze for heating offers various types of thermal media, made on different bases and having certain characteristics, on which their final price depends.

Basic requirements for a coolant:

The degree of viscosity of the thermal fluid with temperature changes;
Inertness of antifreeze in relation to other materials;
The thermal fluid must not be corrosive and be safe for residents in terms of toxicity and ignition;
Thermal conductivity of the material;
The price of the thermal fluid must correspond to its payback period.

Popular antifreezes for heating

H2_2

Ethylene glycol-based antifreezes are divided into two categories depending on their freezing point: - 30 °C and - 65 °C. This type is cheap and cold resistant.

Antifreeze based on ethylene glycol has a significant drawback - high toxicity, which limits the conditions for its use. Ethylene glycol, which is colored red by manufacturers to warn of danger, is not used in open heating systems.

Propylene glycol, colored green by manufacturers, is safe to use. The coolant has a freezing point of 35 °C and can be used in systems with an open expansion tank.

Antifreeze made from glycerin is safe to use and has a freezing point of 30 °C. In comparison with ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, it has a number of advantages and can successfully replace them:

protects corrosion nodes and does not damage parts and elements;
compared to coolants based on ethylene glycol and propylene glycol, with a service life of no more than 5 years, glycerin-based antifreeze has a longer service life - up to 8 years;
the liquid is sold in diluted form, ready for use;

Fact! Glycerin-based antifreeze can be used in heating systems as a replacement for another type of coolant, without flushing the pipes.

Before pouring antifreeze into the heating system with your own hands, you need to correctly calculate how much liquid will be needed and how much to buy. To carry out calculations, it is necessary to calculate the volume of the entire heating system.

There are special tables that allow you to accurately calculate how much antifreeze needs to be poured before initial use or replace one antifreeze liquid with another, based on calculations made per linear meter of pipe. Using such calculations and knowing the diameter of the pipes, you can calculate how much coolant is required per 10 m of the system. It remains to be clarified how much antifreeze needs to be added to fill the battery section. By adding up all the data, you can get the total volume of antifreeze required to fill the system. There is no single formula - filling depends on the diameter of the pipes and the volume of the radiators.

In most cases, the container in which the thermal fluid is sold contains information about the antifreeze sold and its density. Such data allows you to calculate how much water needs to be added to the liquid, which will serve as a heat carrier.

To refill the antifreeze with your own hands, you need to have a pump or special equipment that allows you to carry out the procedures of purging and flushing from used residues. For filling work you will need: a screwdriver, pliers, an adjustable wrench, hoses for pumping coolant, fixing clamps and sealing tape.

Injection of a closed or open type system consists of the following steps:

Before pumping in a new antifreeze liquid intended for replacement, you need to drain the entire amount of used liquid or water through a special pipe by opening the drain valve. If the liquid does not drain on its own, it is removed using a circulation pump;
If the coolant is replaced with another (with the exception of glycerin liquids), preliminary flushing of the system is necessary;
Next, new antifreeze is added using a hose and a circulation pump. Two hoses are used for the injection procedure. The first hose is secured to the drain pipe and the pump outlet, securing the ends with clamps. The second hose is used to supply antifreeze from the container to the pump;
After the hoses are installed, the pump is turned on, which takes the coolant from the tank and fills the heating system with it. When pouring antifreeze into the system, it is necessary to ensure that the end of the hose lowered into the canister is below the liquid level; this is necessary to prevent air along with the liquid from entering the system during the intake of antifreeze. Air trapped with the liquid forms plugs that will interfere with the heating;
For unhindered injection of coolant, the “Mayevsky valve” or a special plug is opened, which will allow air to freely exit when filling the cavities with liquid. After the antifreeze being poured begins to flow out of the plug in a thin stream, filling stops and the plug is closed.

Filling with antifreeze yourself is not a difficult task. When starting work on pumping coolant, you need to decide on the choice of coolant, how much of it is needed, and have the necessary equipment for the work - a pump and tools.

Even minor repairs to one of the radiators or heating pipes inevitably involve complete drainage of the coolant from the heating system. After completing the work, you will have to fill the circuit with water. The question arises - how to start the heating correctly? What temperature should the water be, and at what speed should the liquid be poured? How to prepare and flush your home heating network? It’s better if the work is done by craftsmen; many factors will have to be taken into account.

Types of heating systems in private homes

Residents of apartment buildings do not have to start the heating system themselves. Before starting repairs, specialists will warn all neighbors about the work and drain the liquid from the entire riser. The filling will also be carried out by services that maintain communications.

In a private house, heating can be installed in accordance with one of 2 standard schemes:

Open.

Closed.

An open network, also called gravity, is built without installing circulation pumps that circulate the coolant inside the network. The fluid circulation is carried out due to natural processes: hot water rises upward, where in the expansion tank installed at the top point the carrier comes into contact with air. The cooled water drops to the lower part of the circuit, to the boiler, and is supplied for heating.

Open systems are installed extremely rarely. You can find “classics” only in houses where old boilers, metal pipes and cast iron radiators are used for heating. The volume of coolant in these types of heating networks is large, and accordingly, energy consumption is not economical.

Closed circuits are heating with the connection of pumping equipment, which ensures constant circulation of hot water within the system. Energy consumption (gas or electricity) is minimal, because the volume of liquid is only a few tens of liters. Due to the constant movement of water, the boiler is turned on only to heat the coolant to the set temperature.

Replacing the coolant: reasons and frequency

Replacing water in a closed and open heating circuit is carried out:

During the first heating start.

After installation, the system is filled and started

After seasonal drainage.

When starting after repair work.

Regular topping up of fluid is required during operation if it has not been drained after the heating season.

Why drain your home system?

A question for which there is no clear answer is whether it is necessary to drain the circuit annually after the end of the heating season? The decision depends on the type, age and material of manufacture of the main elements - pipes and radiators, as well as on the total volume of liquid.

Each type has its own frequency of media replacement

Most often, systems with old cast iron radiators are drained for the summer. The reason is the appearance of a leak after the boilers are turned off. The old cast iron ribs are connected to each other by threaded connections with old gaskets. When there is hot water inside the batteries, the seals expand, providing a stable seal at the seams.

After the water cools, the material from which the gaskets are made naturally contracts and begins to flow at the junction of the ribs. But prolonged idle time of old radiators without water is fraught with accelerated corrosion; the rust inside the radiator and old pipes crumbles in a dry environment, and can damage the entire riser.

In closed new circuits, filling the heating system is not a costly process. But it is not recommended to completely drain the liquid every year - this is not necessary.

Frequency of replacing and topping up fluid in the heating system

How often do you need to change the fluid in your heating system? A few general rules:

In open-type circuits of private houses, it is enough to simply add water if the system is sealed, without subjecting the old communications to stress tests in the form of long dry periods. Replacement is necessary only in case of emergency repair or preventive sealing, after washing.

If a leak occurs, it is necessary to drain the water and carry out repairs.

Closed heating systems require preventive flushing and replacement of the coolant after several years.

The frequency of filling with new liquid depends on the characteristics of the water, the service life of the synthetic coolant, and the general condition of the system. If the extreme points are very airy, it is recommended to identify the cause - find the location of the leak and check the tightness of the heating network. Typically, water changes are carried out every few seasons.

Choosing a coolant: what to pour into your home system

Before pouring new liquid into a closed heating system, you must select a coolant. There are only 3 options:

Water.

Synthetic carrier.

Antifreeze for home systems

Important! Water can be used in any home heating systems if part of the circuit is not in contact with cold outside air. If the boiler room is outside the house, the pipes are laid in the ground without thermal insulation, you need to use non-freezing liquids - when the boiler is turned off, frozen water will lead to cracking of the pipes.

Is it possible to fill the system with tap water?

Don't try to save money by adding tap water to your new system. Tap water is “enriched” not only with chlorine, which, when heated, negatively affects the surfaces it comes into contact with. Under the influence of temperatures, which can reach 60 - 80 o, plaque begins to form on the inner walls of pipes, connectors, and radiators. The deposits are reminiscent of scale inside an electric kettle with the same consequences: solid deposits eventually block the internal gaps. As a result, some radiators may remain cold even at high media temperatures.

Deposits in the pipe when using tap water

In addition to problems with water scale, which forms a layer of plaque on the walls of pipes, the use of ordinary tap water can provoke problems that arise due to chemical reactions that occur in the medium when heated. Aggressive impurities have a detrimental effect on the condition of the coating inside radiators, corrode seals, and accelerate corrosion processes.

Conclusion - with a small volume of liquid there is no point in saving. It is better to fill a closed heating system with distilled water.

Distilled water with surfactants and heating additives

Advantages:

Low cost.

Reduced viscosity, good fluidity.

No impurities.

No chlorine.

Increased boiling point.

Distillate as a coolant has a beneficial effect on the operation of the entire system: purified water warms up faster, the load on pumping equipment is reduced, there is no risk of clogging inside the pipes or the appearance of deposits on the internal walls.

Synthetic coolants: application features

Ready-made solutions and concentrates based on:

Propylene glycol.

Ethylene glycol.

Glycerin.

Concentrate for home use

Despite the imperfect performance qualities of ethylene glycol, it is better not to pour solutions based on it into the home heating network - the substance is dangerous to health.

When purchasing, you should focus not on the price, but on the degree of concentration of the active substance. Different brands of coolant are diluted in a certain proportion. Before preparing the solution, be sure to read the instructions for diluting the composition.

Synthetic media degrade over time, so before throwing away the concentrate canister, find information about the expiration date and make a mark near the boiler or inlet pipe with a marker so you don’t forget to replace the coolant on time.

Replacing coolant in a standard closed home heating network

Starting a heating system in a private house with water filling is carried out using complex technology. To work, you will have to buy or borrow special equipment and follow the instructions. If you are not sure of the integrity of the circuit, or there is visible damage to the elements, be sure to call a specialist.

Preparatory stage: what is needed for work

Before filling the heating system in a private house, determine the method of filling the liquid into the circuit. There are 4 options to resolve the issue:

Networks equipped with automatic valves are filled without third-party intervention. The principle is that when the pressure level inside the circuit drops, the valve automatically opens and fills until the optimal operating pressure is reached.

Heating circuit refill unit

Heating with a modern double-circuit boiler is filled from a water pipe: the systems are connected.

It is easier to fill a circuit with an expansion membrane tank through the pipes where the expander is located, having previously dismantled the tank.

Using a special supercharger - a pump for pumping water into the heating system, which is connected to the inlet pipe.

The tools you will need are wrenches of the appropriate diameter for dismantling the tank, a pump if you plan to fill the distillate, and sealing tape for connections.
If you are deciding how to start heating in a private house after a period of inactivity, or you need to replace the old media, you will have to purchase a special cleaning agent.

Checking tightness: how to do pressure testing

The old network must be checked for leaks and leaks. Also, a mandatory check is carried out when heating is started for the first time. The pressure testing stage should not be neglected, especially if the house has areas with underfloor heating that will be located under screed and decorative covering. Fixing a leak after the repair is completed is expensive and difficult.

Before checking the old heating, drain all the water. To drain the media, open the tap. You need to act slowly and carefully. Before draining, be sure to check the water temperature - the media must cool to 30 o. The drain valve is located at the lowest point of the circuit.

Important! Use a measuring container when draining the coolant to find out the exact volume of liquid. There will be no question about the amount of water that needs to be poured into the heating network.

After drying, open the air valve - the Mayevsky tap. The air will fill the circuit and equalize the pressure inside the system.

Start pressing. Use a pump: connect the hose to the inlet pipe. The valve at the top point is left open so that air can escape freely.

The liquid is pumped until a pressure exceeds the operating value by 1.5 times. That is, if the operating pressure is 1.5 bar, when checking it is necessary to increase the indicator to 2.0 - 2.25 bar (but not more than the maximum value allowed for the boiler).

Close the top valve after water begins to flow from it. Assess tightness. Check the dryness of all difficult areas:

Places of entry and exit of pipes from radiators.

Pipe connections.

Boiler inlet and outlet points.

Other threaded connections.

The liquid is left under high pressure for several hours: if no leakage appears during this time, then the heating is in order.

There are two ways to create excessive pressure: liquid (water injection) and dry (air injection). The difficulty of checking it yourself is that when pouring water, an unpleasant situation may arise if there is a break in the circuit (crack or leaky connection). It is better to entrust the crimping to a specialist.

Are you planning to use water as a coolant? Simply drain the excess amount until the pressure drops to an operating value of 1.5 bar.

Flushing your home heating system

Cleaning must be done:

If the system is old.

If ordinary water was used as a coolant.

Before washing, dilute the cleaning agent with water in the proportion specified in the instructions. Pour in the product using a pump and fill the circuit with water.

Washing is a mandatory procedure

Leave for several hours. During this time, the solution dissolves the sediment accumulated in the radiators and removes deposits from the internal walls.

After flushing, drain all the liquid and begin filling the system. Flushing is also mandatory before filling a closed heating system with antifreeze.

Filling with coolant: step by step

Before you start pouring liquid, measure out the required amount of coolant. If synthetic solutions are used, prepare the mixture by diluting the concentrate with distillate to the required volume.
Before connecting the pump to pump coolant into the heating system:

Close the drain valve.

Check the air bleed valves: all valves must be closed.

The Mayevsky tap, located at the top point, is left open.

A pump is connected to the pipe through which the liquid will be poured. Typically, pumps are equipped with flexible hoses with threaded connections. The water intake hose is lowered into the container with the carrier.

Begin filling the system. It is important to select the optimal pump power, avoiding filling too quickly. At the same time as drawing water, keep an eye on the open tap. Filling is stopped after the carrier begins to flow out of the open Mayevsky tap.

Checking and preparing for launch

The last step before starting the heating is removing excess air and checking. It is necessary to bleed any air remaining in the circuit from all air valves. To do this, open the taps at the extreme points one by one and release the air. The taps are turned off after water starts flowing.

When all the air has been bled off, check the pressure indicator. Normally, the readings of all pressure gauges installed in the circuit should match and be at 1.5 - 1.8 bar. When using antifreeze, the indicator is sometimes increased to a maximum of 2 bar.

After checking the pressure, turn on the boiler. At a carrier temperature not exceeding 40 o, the system operates for up to 1 hour. Then the heating is turned off. After cooling, perform another test at a higher temperature. Heat the carrier to 60 - 70 o. In this mode, the heating is left for 2 - 3 hours.

Starting an open heating system

It is easier to fill an open heating system. No special tools needed. It is enough to determine the upper point of water in the expansion tank. You will need an assistant to monitor the air valves.

Work rules

The liquid is drained through the drain pipe located at the lowest point. If necessary, the circuit is flushed. Filling the system is performed in the following sequence:

Shut off the drain valve.

Open the air bleed valves.

Distillate is slowly poured into the expansion tank.

Tank for open type heating

Continue to fill the system with short breaks so that the air rises evenly to the surface. Filling is carried out until liquid begins to flow out of the air valves. The valves close.

Add water to the expansion tank up to the mark. Do not fill the expander completely. When heated, the volume of liquid increases, and water will begin to pour out over the edges of the tank. The maximum coolant level is 2/3 of the internal volume of the tank.

System check and maintenance

After completing the work, bleed the air from the radiators. Each air valve is checked in turn. Add the required amount of water to the tank.

When operating an open system, it is necessary to remember that the warm medium is constantly in contact with air and, accordingly, evaporates. Therefore, it is worth periodically looking into the expansion tank. If the level drops, you just need to add enough water.

Before checking, be sure to turn off the boiler and wait until the water cools to room temperature. Do not add media to hot water. Use liquid with a temperature of up to 40 o.

Video: subtleties of filling a closed system

By observing caution and starting rules, you can independently cope with adding water to the old system. At the first start, the inspection and filling must be done by the technicians who installed the heating. If you do not have the skills, do not try to fix the leak or replace the coolant in the circuit yourself. Entrust the work to a specialist - the master will select the optimal media, a cleaning agent that will not damage the internal surfaces, and will correctly fill the system.

In the heating structure, the expansion tank can rightfully be called an indispensable element. Tank operation ensures full movement of the coolant without unexpected leaks and pipe ruptures.

This phenomenon occurs during the process of heating the liquid, its natural expansion and, as a result, increasing the pressure in the system. The expansion tank compensates for the excess coolant.

Open type expansion tank for heating systems

Large heating structures use expensive closed tanks.

They are characterized by a sealed housing with internal rubber partition (membrane) thanks to which the pressure is adjusted when the coolant expands.

For full operation of home systems, open type expansion tank - suitable alternative, which does not require special knowledge or professional training for operation and further repair of equipment.

Open tank performs Some functions for smooth operation of the heating mechanism:

“takes away” excess heated coolant and “returns” cooled liquid back to the system to adjust the pressure;
removes air, which, thanks to the inclination of the pipes by a couple of degrees, itself rises to the open expansion tank located at the top point of the heating system;
open design feature allows you to add the evaporated volume of liquid directly through the top cap of the tank.

Operating principle

The workflow is divided into four simple steps:

tank is two-thirds full in normal condition;
increasing the flow of liquid into the tank and an increase in the filling level when the coolant is heated;
fluid leaving the reservoir when the temperature drops;
coolant level stabilization in the tank to the original position.

Design

Expansion tank shape exists in three versions: cylindrical, round or rectangular. There is an inspection cover on the top of the housing.

Photo 1. Open type expansion tank design for heating systems. The components are indicated.

The body itself is made sheet steel, but with a homemade version, other materials are also possible, for example, plastic or stainless steel.

Reference. Tank coated with an anti-corrosion layer to prevent premature destruction (primarily this applies to iron containers).

Open tank system includes several different pipes:

for connection of expansion pipe, through which water fills the tank;
at the junction of the overflow, for pouring out excess;
when connecting the circulation pipe, through which the coolant enters the heating system;
for connecting the control pipe, designed to eliminate air and adjust the fullness of pipes;
spare necessary during repairs to discharge coolant (water).

Volume

Correctly calculated tank volume affects the duration of operation of the joint system And uninterrupted functioning of individual elements.

A small tank will lead to breakage of the safety valve due to frequent operation, and a tank that is too large will require additional finances when purchasing and heating an excess volume of water.

An influential factor will be availability of free space.

Appearance

Open tank - a metal tank, the top of which is simply closed with a lid, with an additional hole for adding water. The tank body can be round or rectangular. The latter option is more practical and reliable during installation and fastening, but the round one has the advantage of sealed seamless walls.

Important! Rectangular tank requires additional wall reinforcement with an impressive volume of water (homemade version). This makes the entire expansion mechanism heavier, which must be lifted to the highest point of the heating system, for example, to the attic.

Advantages:

Standard form. In most cases, it is a rectangle that can be installed and connected to the general mechanism yourself.
Simple design without an excessive number of control elements, which makes it easy to control the smooth operation of the tank.
Minimum number of connecting elements, which gives the body strength and reliability during operation.
Average market price, thanks to the above facts.

Flaws:

Unattractive appearance, without the ability to hide thick-walled bulky pipes behind decorative panels.
Low efficiency.
Using water as a coolant. With other antifreezes, evaporation occurs faster.
The reservoir is not sealed.
The need to constantly add water (once a week or once a month) due to evaporation, which, in turn, affects airing and the normal functioning of the heating system.
Presence of air bubbles leads to internal corrosion of system elements and a decrease in service life and heat transfer, and the appearance of noise.

Installation location

The installation of an open tank is carried out at the highest point of the heating system. There are several installation options:

On the serve. The classic option involves installing a tank above the boiler. With this scheme, hot water (coolant) not only flows along the circuit, but also penetrates into the tank, creating a characteristic noise reminiscent of boiling water in a kettle.

Attention! In case of incorrect calculations The coolant may also boil in the tank.

On the return. This method avoids boiling problems due to the reduced temperature of the liquid.
Combined. This method involves the installation of two expansion tanks- one at the point of coolant supply, and the second at the return. This combination allows you to avoid air pockets formed in the system.

Photo 2. Diagram of a heating system with an expansion tank. In this case, it is installed on the return line.

How to install correctly

When installing an open expansion tank there is Several effective recommendations used by experienced specialists for reliable results:

Inserting an emergency drain pipe, to avoid coolant overflowing over the top of the tank.
Insulation of the body tank.
Placing the tank directly above the boiler and connection with it by a vertical supply line.
Insulation of the tube connecting the tank to the general system. This will help avoid an explosion due to the fact that the increased volume of coolant will have nowhere to go.
Insulation of the outlet drain pipe in order to avoid water overflowing when it freezes or to protect yourself from harmful antifreeze vapors.
Installing the handset(flexible hose located inside the tank) to the very bottom. This will help maximize the use of tank space.

How to make it yourself from plastic containers or stainless steel

You can make an expansion tank yourself. A tank is suitable for this 10-12 liters(depending on exact calculations of the coolant volume of the general system).

If you have a ready-made base, for example, a plastic container, you should check its capacity (with regular 3 liter jars), and then fasten the missing elements.

Usually the tank is made of stainless steel sheet 2-4 mm thickness.

Tools:

welding machine, electrodes for welding;
grinder with corresponding circles;
sheet metal (stainless steel);
pipes;
various bolts, a set of fittings;
rubber gaskets;
brush, gloves, protective mask;
Oil paint;
thermal insulation materials;
metal file;
roulette;
tank diagram with all dimensions.

Marking a sheet of metal

First of all, you need to make markings on the sheet metal. For this you can use a cutting map with paper parts allowing the use of metal with the least waste. When joining on a sheet two parts, you definitely need to take into account the thickness of the grinder circle, which can “eat” a few millimeters.

Important! All work should be carried out carefully followed by cleaning the edges.

Cutting blanks

The tank body consists of five or six rectangles(depending on the availability of the lid). If desired, you can separate the top part of the lid into two parts as it will be convenient, welding one part to the base and attaching the second to the curtains.

Welding a homemade device

Cut blanks needed place at right angles and weld. The mounting method may be different - gas is perfect for 2 mm steel sheets, and with 3-4 mm Sheets work well with electric welding.

In the bottom of the case it is necessary make a hole and weld a pipe there, through which the coolant will enter the tank. The pipe itself, accordingly, is connected to the circuit of the general heating system.

Insulation

The open heating structure is distinguished by the installation of an expansion tank at the highest point of the system. Typically, this is an unheated attic, where in winter the temperature is often sub-zero. Under such conditions, the water in the tank may freeze, damaging the entire system. To avoid such a problem, the tank should be insulated with special materials, for example, basalt wool.

Such thermal insulation material is resistant to high temperatures, which is a necessary condition, because the water in the tank boils at elevated degrees.

Adding oil

In the design of a homemade tank, in addition to the main pipe connecting the tank to the system, additional elements are welded:

to recharge the system or add coolant (water, oil);
for emergency drainage of excess coolant into the sewer system.

Important! The drain pipe must be located above the maximum tank fill level to avoid liquid spilling over the top.

Through the hole in the lid, water from the tank evaporates and air can enter the system. This leads to overheating of the pipes and poor coolant circulation. To solve this problem professionals recommend pouring a little oil into the tank. It will cover the surface of the coolant with a thin film, thus creating a protective layer against air penetration.

Closed heating system has no connection with the atmosphere, which partially increases the pressure.

This is due to protection from environmental conditions and weather changes outside.

Filling a closed heating system with coolant has its own characteristics.

Features of filling a closed-type heating system

To perform the work it is necessary pump and expansion tank. It is recommended to do this together. Task first— fill the circuit with water while the second one controls the release of air.

If you have to do everything in alone, just turn on low pressure. The gas relief valve should be in the upper part of the pipeline, away from the boiler.

Before starting, place a container under the leakage area to collect it.

The tap for removing water is installed at the bottom. Not far from it, near the boiler, a supply pipe is installed. To fill, use a hose that is placed in the water supply or connected to a pump. Contributes to a successful process high pressure. The system will fill when liquid comes out of the drain valve. Then comes the bleed and pressure check. If necessary, repeat the procedure.

In a two-circuit system the process is simpler. For filling use make-up system, if there is. It will automatically perform balancing, remove gas and select the set pressure. If it is not available, you will need to connect the water supply to the boiler with a hose and fill it through the latter. In this case, you will have to manually clear the air from the circuit.

If the boiler gas, it will have to be removed front cover. There is a booster pump located there. The device is turned on by heating the coolant.

The liquid is mixed with the gas that needs to be removed: to do this, the valve inside the device is slightly opened with a screwdriver. When water appears from it, the valve is plugged.

The procedure is repeated 3-5 times with an interval of 2-3 minutes. If the boiler stops bubbling, check the pressure.

Having finished filling the closed system, they proceed to inspecting the integrity of the pipes. After this, debugging and hydraulic testing are done.

Types of coolants

There are several types, mainly liquids, but also occur gaseous. Most often used the following two substances.

Water

It is a standard pipeline filler. Tolerates heat well and does not cause chemical reactions, except for the oxidation of metals. During operation, the circuit partially fills scale formed as the liquid cools.

Important! When using this substance, it is enough to carry out annual cleaning the system from solid formations.

Antifreeze

Anti-freeze is used in systems that periodically turned off, especially in the cold season. It is also useful in northern areas. When cooling, the pipes will not burst, which happens with water. To inject antifreeze, it is recommended to create a system with small diameter contour, and install radiators panel. This helps save on fluid consumption.

Photo 1. Antifreeze model ECO-30 on propylene glycol with carboxylate additives, weight - 10 kg, manufacturer - Thermagent.

In addition, it is much more difficult to fill: antifreeze cannot be filled directly with a hose or through a tank (in a closed system).

Bay perform in one of two ways:

From below using a pump. It creates pressure due to which antifreeze begins to circulate. To do this, you will need a special mechanism that can act on liquids other than water.
Through a check valve. It is connected to the container, positioned as high as possible. This helps reduce blood pressure. Once filling is completed, the remainder is drained.

Preparatory work

Performed regardless of the condition of the equipment.

Hydraulic test

Both old and new pipes must be flushed and tested:

Using water harness cleaned from technological debris and scale. With the addition of chemicals, it is possible to remove scale and rust.

If the operating rules are followed (do not drain the coolant in summer), this procedure is carried out with a break of two years.

Testing performed with air at high pressure. For crimping, working indicator multiplied by 1.25(value varies depending on material and volume of water). The pressure may drop during operation no more than 1%.

Troubleshooting

During hydraulic tests, the system is inspected for the presence of cracks and cracks, leaks. After this, you need to check the functionality of the equipment: pump, expansion tank, boiler, etc.

Overlapping reinforcement

After completing the inspection, you need to tighten everything valves leading to draining fluid from the radiators, as well as shutting off air valves.

How to fill the system correctly

Exists two fundamentally different ways pouring water.

Above

Performed using circulation pump. It is advisable to use electric, especially in systems with differential heights from 10 meters.

If there is only a manual device, filling can be done from the top point using a fitting that is connected to the air valve.

Liquid enters by gravity. The drain valve at the bottom must be open. It is blocked as soon as water appears. This helps create a static pressure equal to the height of the contour divided at 10 atm.

Next, you need to increase the amount of liquid to the working value. TO fitting connect the hose using a ball valve. On the other hand, an adapter to a pump with a pressure gauge is attached to it. The hose is filled with water with the valve on the pipe closed. It is then transferred to the circuit, creating an air flow from the pump. Procedure repeat 3-5 times. This must be done carefully so that gas does not enter the pipeline. Otherwise, you will have to clean the system.

From below

For the procedure you will need a container with a volume of not less than 200 liters(more depending on the system). A pump is placed in it and the necessary pressure is created.

The latter is calculated by the pressure height: value in meters divide by 10 and get the number in atmospheres.

The barrel is pre-filled with water. The level should be higher pipe to avoid air entry. As the pumping progresses, the liquid is added.

When filling with antifreeze, use a small container so as not to contaminate the hose and pump housing. Its amount needs to be replenished more often, periodically stopping the process.

Filling is performed when open air ducts. The last ones are Mayevsky’s cranes, located on batteries. Objects are placed under them to collect liquid. When it starts to flow, the valves are closed.