There are several types of poppy in nature, but the one most often used for decorative bouquets is the oriental poppy: a large, bright orange-red color with a black spot at the base of the petal (there is also a pink form). Other poppies are smaller: field poppy (scarlet, red, dark red), garden poppy, often double, shaped like a peony (from white to dark purple, except yellow and blue). The color of the stem and leaves of these poppies is bluish-green. The alpine poppy has white, yellow and orange flowers. But all these poppies can be made using one pattern, only by decreasing or increasing the details.

For making petals, cambric is primarily suitable, but you can also make them from plain red chintz, scarlet crepe de Chine or non-shiny silk, such as toile. White fabrics are dyed with red aniline dye. At worst, the petals can be painted with red ink. The fabric for the poppy flower should not be too starched so that the petals do not turn out rough.

For the corolla, first cut out two double petals obliquely. If you don't have much fabric, you can cut out four single petals.

They need to be painted while still wet. The color of the petal should be even, without spots or stretch marks, although in the field poppy the very edge (1–1.5 mm) may have a darker shade. After drying at the base of each petal, carefully use a brush or cotton swab to make a black-purple spot approximately 1/5 the size of the petal, for which use black aniline dye or regular ink.

After drying, the petals are corrugated:

You can do this with tweezers - from the center to the edge.

You can draw lines on the petals with a hot single cutter (it’s better to work on hard rubber). Corrugation begins with the central vein, which is carried out from the spot to the edge, then in the middle of each half of the petal is carried out along a vein-groove. This is important because the corrugation on the petal must be uniform.

You can wrap the petal in gauze and crimp it with your hands (fold it into a pleat).

Then the petals are straightened and the bulge on the front side of the petal in the area of ​​the black spot is squeezed out with a large bubble. Do this on soft rubber. The edges of the petal can also be treated with a bulk, but a small one, alternately on each side of the petal.

Then the petal is straightened with your hands, slightly bending the edge outward.

The core of the poppy is very characteristic, and therefore it is worth paying attention to. Cotton wool soaked in PVA glue, pre-painted bluish-green and dried, is wound onto the wire. A ball with a diameter of 0.8–1 cm is formed from cotton wool.

Two ways to form a ball

You can cover the cotton ball with a square of green tissue paper, which is also tied with thread and twisted under the crown.

At the same time, the ball is tied lengthwise with a thread of the same color to indicate the ribs on it. Make no more than six ribs.

When the ball dries, it is additionally coated with glue so that its surface is smooth and slightly shiny.

A hexagonal crown made of green fabric is glued to the top of the ball. The cut crown should first be pressed with a small boule so that it has a semicircular shape. On each scallop of the crown, a groove can be made from the center with a single cutter.

The oriental poppy has thick, black-purple stamens with blue anthers, and they can be made from black carbon paper, black silk thread or simple spool thread (No. 10), but then additionally tint them with black or purple ink.

The length of the stamens is twice the height of the boll (the supply of thread is necessary for screwing the stamens to the stem). To make anthers, the ends of the threads are coated with glue and dipped in semolina, previously painted in a bluish-lilac color. For other poppies, the color of the semolina should be white, yellow or greenish yellow. When the stamens dry, they are carefully and evenly glued in a circle to the box, and the lower end is wrapped around the stem.

When the stamens and boll are dry, the petals are placed on the stem using a wire 20–25 cm long. If you made paired petals, then pierce them in the center and put them on the stem, smearing them with glue in the center. If you are assembling a corolla from four single petals, then put them on the stem, placing them crosswise and also smearing them with glue in the center. When assembling, hold the flower head down.

Since the poppy does not have a calyx, you can use green threads to create a thickening on the stem under the corolla, on which the petals of the corolla will rest. When wrapping the stem with green tissue paper, you can leave a 0.5 mm paper tip, which you can split a little and glue to the corolla.

The poppy has sparse hairs on its stem and is made from short cut wool dyed green. You can also use finely pinched cotton wool.

The lower leaves of the poppy are pinnately lobed with large teeth along the edges. The upper leaves are not so much cut. The leaves are cut out of bluish-green fabric and corrugated on both sides with a single cutter on hard rubber. To give them a curve, a thin wire wrapped in yellow-green tissue paper is glued to the underside of large leaves.

Poppy buds are very characteristic and expressive. They are made similarly to the core, but made more elongated and larger. A green cotton cocoon is wound around the wire and coated with glue. To create the effect of hairs, it is sprinkled with cut wool and the glue is allowed to dry. Then the top of the cocoon is cut 1.5–2 cm with a razor or scalpel, the cut is smeared with glue and a corrugated piece of one or two petals is inserted into it (they can be made from scraps of the main petals).

The stem of the bud is made in the same way as the stem of the main flower. First, small, then larger leaves are attached to it.

Often poppies have flowers, buds, and mature poppy boxes on one stem. You can make a beautiful bouquet simply from just poppies and place flowers here and there among them - it’s also beautiful.

Mature poppies are made similarly to the core, that is, they form a ball of cotton wool on glue, but its size should be larger than the core of the flower - 2-3 cm in diameter. The boxes may be larger, but here it is very important to maintain harmony between the crown and the stem. The ball is tied with thread. After the glue has dried, the top is coated with hot wax, colored gray-green, or paraffin from a green candle. While the wax is still hot, smooth it with your finger so that the crown is even. A corrugated and waxed crown is glued to the top of the head.

The stem with a mature capsule is smooth, not fleecy, so it is wrapped in gray-green paper with glue, allowed to dry and also covered with wax. Leaves on stems with mature crowns are not needed.

As a rule, when it comes to making artificial flowers, for some reason everyone tries to start with chamomile. But this simple-looking flower requires painstaking work and skill, and to make it look like a real daisy, you will have to work hard. Daisies are made from thick cotton or silk fabric.

White field daisy

The chamomile whisk can be made in two ways.

First way. The petals of the corolla are cut out from two circles of starched material. Each circle is sequentially folded into four times and cut in the middle, each quarter is also cut in the middle. The boundaries between the petals in the circle are cut 2/3 of the way. This makes 16 petals. The edge of each petal is rounded and one or two small teeth are cut out at the curve. Make a hole in the center of the circles with an awl. Each petal is corrugated on a hard rubber pad with a double-row cutter. The line is drawn from the edge to the center.

Second way. Chamomile flowers are collected from individual petals. (Fortune telling about the betrothed, but vice versa!) If you carefully and patiently complete the task, then reliability will be achieved. The fact is that living chamomile does not have even and geometrically arranged petals. As a rule, 10–15 petals are arranged so that some petals overlap each other, and there is a different distance between them, some petal is bent down, and so on.

First, try to make a larger chamomile with petals 4–5 cm. Corrugate each petal cut from starched fabric and glue it from below to the core. Then glue a cup to the completed row, which will finally secure the petals. In this case, it is worth making a corrugation on the cup between the teeth with a single cutter.

To make a cup, a circle with a diameter of 1/3 of the diameter of the corolla is cut out of green starched satin, chintz or viscose. Folding it four times and four times again, cut out the cloves, preferably uniform ones.

You can make the teeth with nail scissors without folding the material. It is important that there are from 10 to 16 cloves.

A hole is pierced in the middle of the cup. On a soft pillow, the cup is treated with a small grain on the wrong side of the green fabric to give it a convex shape.

The core for the chamomile should be made bright and “similar”. The core is attached to a thin wire 20–25 cm long. There are several ways to make it.

The core can be made from bright yellow cotton wool. The yellow-dyed cotton wool is rolled slightly into a thick cloth with your hands and twisted with wire in the middle. Then they make a flat cake, which is trimmed and rounded with scissors. The resulting base is smeared with glue and dipped in yellow-painted semolina. Along the edges, the core is tinted a darker yellow or orange.

You can glue a piece of round bright yellow gauze or fabric with a clear weave structure onto a cotton base.

You can make a center out of yellow threads - floss, iris. Threads are often (40-100 turns) wound around two pencils, to which a wire is attached - the future stem of a chamomile. The wire is bent and twisted with the other end of the wire. Then the threads are removed from the pencil, cut in the middle and lifted up. The wire is twisted with pliers. The threads are cut short (shorter towards the edges to create the effect of a convex middle), dipped in glue, and then in yellow semolina.

You can carefully wrap a thread of iris or floss into a spiral onto a cotton base coated with glue.

Chamomile leaves are small, with rounded teeth.

The lower the leaf is located on the stem, the larger it should be. Therefore, it is advisable to cut leaves in two sizes. The leaves are made from green fabric, the same one used for the calyx. A thin wire, previously wrapped in light green fabric or tissue paper, is glued to the large lower leaves. The winding should exceed the length of the petiole by 7–10 mm, so that it is convenient to attach the leaf to the stem and so that it can cover the attachment point.

The leaves are corrugated along the front side on a hard cushion: with a single cutter - the lateral veins of large leaves and the central one of small leaves, with a double-row cutter - the central vein.

When assembling a flower onto a stem with the core already attached, first the first row of petals is put on from below through the stem and glued from below to the core. Then the second row of petals is put on the wire so that the petals of the second row are in the gaps between the petals of the first. The wire is coated with glue and wrapped with light green cloth or a green paper strip, the end of which is carefully glued from below to the middle. Then put on a cup and glue it to the petals. In order for the chamomile to have a neat appearance, you need to carefully coat each clove of the calyx with PVA glue and press it against the petals. Then leaves are planted on the stem.

In general, field chamomile is a single flower, but you can also make an inflorescence of three to five flowers and buds. Then choose the main wire-stem with the largest daisy at the end and screw other wires with flowers to this stem so that all the flowers are on the same level. The attachment points are hidden under large leaves.

If you want to make buds or opening flowers, then cut out one circle with small petals and glue it in one row to the middle. Crimp the petals with your hands around the middle (they should stick out above it) and glue the cup from below.

Colored daisies

In addition to white, there are yellow, pink, crimson daisies with yellow centers, as well as varieties of daisies: silver (venidium) and brown-orange with a black center, variegated (gaillardia). And all of them can be made according to the above scheme, you just need to select the appropriate material and convey the outline of the petals as accurately as possible. Colored daisies need to color their petals more intensely, and some need a bright orange or yellow spot at the point of attachment to the middle. This is done with a brush on a slightly damp cloth.

This flower is made by analogy with chamomile, but only one row of larger petals (8-10 pieces) of white, pink, lilac, and burgundy are used. The center of the circle with the petals is processed with a grain, and the petals are corrugated with a three-row cutter along the front side. The stamens are made from yellow threads, and they protrude more above the petals than the stamens of a chamomile.

The calyx of cosmos is serrated, the stem is thin and graceful.

Making cosmos leaves presents some difficulty. They are thin, pinnately dissected, and are cut from tightly starched fabric with nail scissors.

This very decorative flower - white-green, yellow, fawn, scarlet, dark red - is also similar to a daisy, but it has a larger number of petals, at least 40, and they are longer and narrower.

Gerbera petals are colored only on one side, the inner side; on the reverse side they are silver-green. They are made from satin or satin. Imported colored satin is often painted only on the front side, which can be used in work.

If the corolla is assembled from individual petals, then they are cut out obliquely. If the satin is patterned, then the pattern is laid out on pieces of fabric of the desired color between the pattern. Petals made of white fabric are hand-dyed on dry fabric with gouache or aniline, and white is used for the reverse side.

The petals are corrugated with a double-row cutter from the inside out. Circles with petals in the center on the front side are pressed with a ball of soft rubber, the ends of the petals are processed from the inside out so that they bend outward. The middle is the same as that of chamomile, but gerbera does not have a calyx, so the petals are attached to the stem: they are carefully glued with a piece of wrapping on the stem, which is made from thinly plucked cotton wool. The stem, light green in color, should be flexible, full and slightly woolly.

Gerbera has no leaves on the stem, it is just a large flower on a long stem.

Cornflower

Common field cornflowers are bright blue, but garden forms can be white, pink, lilac and dark purple. For an artificial bouquet, simple, recognizable cornflowers are suitable, which can be made from smooth bright blue crepe de Chine, cambric or staple, or you can specially dye white fabric.

The cornflower flower has a center consisting of densely set dark blue stamens with white tips, and bordering it are serrated funnel-shaped petals (7–9 pieces) of a lighter and brighter blue color.

The marginal flowers are small, so it is better to cut them out in the form of two identical toothed corollas. At the upper corolla, each petal is corrugated with a small bun on the wrong side, and each clove is bent upward by hand. The second whisk is processed in the same way, but it is rolled on the front side and the cloves are bent down.

First, the stamens are attached to the wire, cut short and their tips dipped in light paint. The first whisk is placed on the wire, face down, wrong side up. Then put on the second whisk, inside out, and combine it with the first. The narrow part of the corollas is smeared with glue and gently pressed together with tweezers.

The calyx is strung on a wire-stem after the corolla and stamens are attached to it. Under the corolla of the cornflower there is a large oval cup. It is made from gray-green cotton wool with brown inclusions, preferably reminiscent of cloves. You can make teeth from brown thread, which is glued in a circle in a zigzag pattern onto a cotton base.

Some publications suggest taking a cup from a living cornflower, drying it and then, carefully steaming it, use it to make an artificial flower. But this is a bad idea. Firstly, it is quite difficult to “reanimate” a dried cup, and secondly, in order to avoid bad taste in the manufacture of artificial flowers, it is advisable to use only homogeneous materials.

In general, natural leaves, cones, dried twigs do not combine well with fabric, cotton wool and threads. Such a bouquet will look unprofessional. Creating bouquets from natural plant materials is another form of art.

The leaves of cornflower are thin, lanceolate, with small sparse teeth. No wire is glued to them; they are only processed in the center with a single cutter.

The leaves are attached to the stem at a distance of 5–6 cm from each other in the next order.

Musk cornflower

Musk cornflower (garden form) differs from the simple one in its larger size and very thinly cut double marginal flowers. It may also be yellow.

You can make edge flowers from threads. Fold 10-12 identical loops from a thin thread of colored iris. It is convenient to do this on a clove.

After removing the threads from the nail, starch them (you can use PVA glue). Sharpen the ends, still damp from starch, with your fingers or tweezers.

Treat dry bundles of thread with boule, just like the petals of a regular cornflower, and attach to the wire around the stamens. Place the “tails” of the threads in a cup. An additional decorative effect can be achieved by using yellow, pink, burgundy floss threads made in China, dyed with a stretch of tone: from light to dark.

Bell

The bell is made from crepe de Chine or thin lilac-blue silk. But bells of several colors will look more interesting in a bouquet: white, blue, lilac, purple.

The rim is corrugated with a single cutter on soft rubber. The end of each petal is treated with a boule so that the petal bends outward. Then the corolla is glued and put on a wire with a pestle with three white curls of thread. A small cotton ball is wound on a wire under the whisk. Due to the rounded shape of the rim, working with a bell requires care and patience.

The cup is processed with a boule and a single cutter, after which it is glued to the rim so that the cotton ball ends up in the cup.

The leaves of the bell are narrow. They are processed with a single cutter.

On a branch there are three flowers, a couple of buds and three leaves.

Forget-me-nots

Making a small bouquet of forget-me-nots is a complex and painstaking task. But there is nothing impossible about it.

For flowers, choose blue cambric (cobalt with white) or dye the fabric with aniline in a soft blue color. Make a few flowers pale pink.

Flowers with five petals are easier to make by cutting them out, but you can also cut them out of starched fabric with nail scissors. The size of the corolla should not exceed 8-10 mm in diameter. The corollas are treated in the middle on the front side with the smallest hot batch. Each whisk is mounted on a short (4–7 cm) thin wire.

The corolla of a forget-me-not has a white center or with yellow spots. The stamens are very small - 2 mm, with white tips. You can not make small stamens at all (since this is a very labor-intensive work), but make a small cone with five cloves from paper or thin fabric. The corolla is put on a cone attached to a wire, and the cloves are bent and glued to the corolla so that the clove hits the middle of the petal.

The calyx of the flower is cut out of green fabric and glued to the bottom of the corolla.

The wire is covered with green tissue paper. One or two small – 1 cm – leaves are glued onto it. The leaves are corrugated with a single cutter.

Flower blanks are attached to the main stem, and the attachment point is hidden under the leaf. Flowers on short wires are mounted at the top of the stem, while flowers on longer wires are mounted at the bottom. This is how a harmonious inflorescence is formed.

Blue linen

Blue flax has a larger corolla than forget-me-not, and it is attached to a longer stem - 10–15 cm. The stamens do not stick out to the sides, but are collected in a bunch.

A corolla 1.5–2 cm in diameter is assembled from five petals, which are treated with a small loaf at the base and on the inside along the edges of the petal. You can cut out the petals in a circle at once, which is then folded into a cone.

The petals are corrugated with a single cutter and glued so that each edge overlaps the previous one. The cup is glued to the bottom.

The flax flower is not flat, but funnel-shaped. The leaf is thin, with a sharp tip. The inflorescence is formed in the same way as the inflorescence of forget-me-nots.

Garden flax is larger than field flax and can be dark red (crimson), blue and white, or pink and white.

Rose hip

To make a decorative rosehip branch, you will need fabrics such as cambric, crepe de Chine or thin silk for flowers and thick satin for leaves. The color of the flowers can range from whitish to dark pink. In the south of our country, yellow forms of rose hips are found.

The corolla consists of five petals. For small flowers, you can cut out a solid five-petal corolla; large flowers are best collected from separately cut petals.

A corolla or petals are cut out of white material and slightly moistened. The peculiarity of the coloring of rosehip petals is the subtle stretching of color - from the dark edge to the light, slightly yellow-green middle. Pink paint is applied with a brush or the top edges of the petals are dipped into diluted dye. The base of the petal is left white and, after the base color has dried, light strokes of yellow-green paint are applied to it. Along the upper edge, an even darker shade of pink is applied with a brush.

The dried petal blank is corrugated in the center with a ball of soft rubber, and the edge of the petal, to give it a bent shape, is wrapped on a match or bent with tweezers.

The center of the flower is bright yellow, with short stamens. To make it, a small (0.5 cm) ball of yellow cotton wool is wound on a wire; for credibility, it can be covered with any yellow woven fabric. Around the center there are stamens, which are also attached to a wire. They can be made from starched yellow silk or plain thread. The tips of the stamens are dipped in yellow-colored semolina.

The corolla or individual petals are glued to the middle, and then the cup is glued from below. The rosehip flower has a characteristic calyx: it has five serrated leaves and a thickening - the future fruit. The serrated petals of the cup are cut out according to a pattern from dense fabric, such as chintz, brown-red or green, and crimped with a single cutter.

The thickening is made of green cotton wool wound on a wire (similar to a poppy box, but more elongated in shape), and five cotton threads are left, which are glued to the bottom of the cup. The cotton thickening, like the entire stem, must be lubricated with wax or paraffin.

The leaves are cut out of green or green-brown material, glued with the underside to the wire and the veins are corrugated on the leaf blades. Five prepared leaves are collected into one complex leaf, which is attached to the stem.

The bud is made of green cotton wool, to which the feathery calyx is glued. The petals of the calyx close over two pink petals curled into a cone. The petals are attached to the wire with glue and threads, then a cup is put on, and a cotton thickening is made under it. The thickening is then covered with wax.

The stem is made of soft wire, onto which flowers and collected compound leaves are attached. At the joint, glue paper with teeth. The stem is also wrapped in brown or green paper. Spikes are made of paper or fabric. The finished stem can be coated with a topcoat varnish for furniture.

Double rosehip flower

Based on the rosehip pattern, you can also make a double flower shape. To do this, you just need to add more petals, cutting out 10-13 circles. The central petals are cut out smaller. Each next circle of petals is positioned so that it is located between the petals of the previous one. The petals are fastened with threads and glue for strength. You can paint the outer petals a more intense color, and make the central ones lighter.

Tea rose is a very popular flower. There are many different colors of roses: from white to black, yellow, green, scarlet and pink, and now even bluish flowers. And within one color, a rose can have thin stretches of color, light or dark stripes along the edge. But, of course, for an artificial bouquet it is better to make flowers that are more orthodox and recognizable in color and shape.

The tea rose differs from the double rose hip in that its corolla is more closed and elongated, and the petals are larger and their ends are steeply curled.

Petals are cut out in several sizes, on average 12–15 pieces (more or less).

Rose petals are colored unevenly, so when coloring them you need to try to make tonal transitions from the dark color in the core of the flower to the light outer petals or, conversely, from the light core to the dark edges. The petals are painted in several stages. For example, the outer petals are dipped in pink dye, strongly diluted with water and alcohol, then pink dye is added to the solution and the middle petals are dipped into it. For the core, undiluted liquid pink aniline dye is used, and sometimes a few drops of burgundy are added to it. Apply a darker shade along the very edge of the wet petals with a brush and allow the paint to flow smoothly into the petal (here you will need a cotton swab to avoid creating a sharp boundary between the colors).

The bottom of the petal is not painted - left white or tinted yellow.

The cup is cut out of green satin, the edges are tinted with reddish-brown paint. On the sepals near the calyx, with a single cutter, three veins are drawn from the front side, and the center is bubbled with a small bubble.

To make a bud, the middle petals are tightly twisted into a cone. Underneath it, a cotton ball is attached to a wire, onto which a cup is placed. The teeth of the calyx are glued to the bud, the very ends are slightly bent outward.

A rose leaf is collected from three to five leaves rounded into small teeth. The top, larger leaf and two to four smaller side leaves are cut out of green satin. The top sheet is glued to a long - 10-15 cm - wire, to which the side leaves are then glued to thin wires.

The leaves are corrugated with a double-row cutter along the central vein, and frequent lateral veins are made with a single cutter (all on the front side). Then the side leaves are attached to the main wire, which is covered with paper or cloth. The leaf collected in this way is attached to the stem with the flower, masking the attachment point with a triangular piece of fabric (stipule).

The corolla is assembled as follows. A small cotton ball is attached to the end of the wire, onto which a tightly twisted cone of middle petals is placed. Other petals are glued to the middle in a clockwise spiral, pressing them tightly to the previous row. All petals are additionally secured with thread so that they do not fall apart. Several outer (large) petals are smeared with glue at three points: along the edges and along the central vein. Then the cup is put on and glued, and a small cotton ball is attached underneath it.

There are several varieties of lilies of different colors. But the flower can be made using one pattern. True, different types of lilies will require different materials.

White Lily

White lilies are best made from thick, shiny white silk or satin. Petals 10–15 cm long are cut out along an oblique thread. Three larger petals make up the first inner row, and three narrow petals are attached in the spaces between the first three, covering the gaps.

A thin wire covered with thin white or greenish silk is glued to the underside of the petals. (You can use tissue paper, cotton cloth or cotton wool, but this is worse.) The wire should be longer than the lower end of the petal so that it can later be used to attach the petal to the stem.

A smear of green-yellow paint is applied to the petals on a damp cloth from the reverse side in the center, and when it dries, a little burgundy pigment is rubbed over the applied color using a dry method with a bristle brush. If you don’t have dry aniline dye, then you can do it the old fashioned way: take the lead out of a colored pencil (preferably two or three colors: pink, burgundy, red-brown) and grind it into a fine powder. It is better to apply the ground lead to the fabric not with a brush, but with a cotton swab wrapped on a thin stick. The inside of the flower is not painted; yellow strokes are applied only in the very center with a thin brush. Each petal is processed on the front (inner) side with a double-row cutter along the central vein, corrugated with a single cutter on a soft cushion along the edge and the tips of the petals are slightly turned back.

Lilies naturally have six stamens and a pistil. But so that the corolla does not look bulky, you can make only three stamens and a pistil. The stamens are made from thin wire wrapped in pale green or yellow silk fabric or tissue paper. To make an anther, the end of a wire about 1 cm long is bent into a T shape and wrapped with cotton wool. Then it is painted bright yellow or dipped in semolina of that color. The pestle is wrapped in light green paper, and the tip of the winding is split into three tails. You can also make a round tip of the pestle. To make stamens and pistil, you can take a white cotton rope 2 mm in diameter and glue it with PVA glue, but it will hold its shape less well.

The leaves of the lily are shiny, and they are made of green satin, satin or thick silk. The leaves are heavily starched and either processed with a single cutter on the front side - the central vein is drawn, or a wire wrapped in green silk is glued and corrugated with a double-row cutter along the front side.

This is how you collect lilies. The stamens and pistil are first attached to a 30–40 cm long wire carefully wrapped with cotton wool. Then they screw on the petals: three inner ones - near the pistil and a little further along the stem - three outer ones, folding them like a funnel. Then the stem is bent and wrapped with green cloth or paper.

Since the lily does not have a cup, the wire near the petals is hidden with a piece of fabric or paper, a small supply of which is left on the stem. It is important that no thickening forms on the stem. The petals of the flower are bent outward with your hands and the top of the petal is carefully ironed to the middle with an iron. Leaves are planted on the stem at a distance of 5–6 cm from each other.

At the base of each leaf, at the point of attachment to the stem, make a small fold. You can also use your hands to give the leaves a bent shape.

The buds are collected from four to five narrow petals painted light green, without gluing wires to them. The buds are first attached to the top of the stem, and the open flowers below them.

Tiger (standard) lily

The tiger lily also has six petals, but they are all the same. For a tiger lily, bright orange, fiery red or orange-red material is suitable: silk, satin, satin, you can also use panvelvet. The outside of the petals is tinted with light green paint and white, and small black-brown spots are applied to the inside with ink. From the inside, a wire covered with light green fabric is attached to them. From the front side of the petal, a vein is drawn along the wire with a double-row cutter.

The stamens are made in the same way as for the white lily, but the wire is wrapped in brown or red-brown paper or cloth. The anthers at the ends of the stamens are also dark brown. You can glue pieces of black or brown velvet on them.

The flowers of the tiger lily are downward, and the petals are turned outward. The leaves are narrow, slightly bent.

Tulips are made of silk or cambric. The color of the flower can be any color except blue, light blue and bright green (the pale green color of the tulip already exists). At the base of the petal the color is always lighter; some flowers have a yellow bottom. Red (early) tulips often have a black spot at the base.

The tulip has six petals, and they are made and attached to the stem in the same way as the white lily. Some difference is that the three petals of the inner row bend slightly inward of the corolla, and the three petals of the outer row bend outward.

In addition to processing the petals with a double-row cutter along the central vein, they are treated with hot bulk in the lower part to give them a convex shape.

The tulip pistil has a pronounced division of the tip into three bends. It can be made from three thin wires woven together and wrapped in greenish tissue paper. You can attach three thin strips of leather (no more than 8 mm long) to the end of the wire.

The stem of the tulip is fleshy, so it is advisable to first wrap the wire with a thin layer of cotton wool, and then stick green paper or fabric on it.

The leaves of the tulip (two leaves per flower) are large – 10–25 cm, bluish-green. When painting them green, you must add blue or blue paint, and if you paint them with a brush and by hand, then add white.

The leaves are corrugated along the central vein with a double-row cutter, along the edges (along the length) with a single cutter, and ironed from the inside out with a hook or a small roll. The leaves are attached to the bottom of the stem.

The petals of white daffodils are best made from thick silk, and for the core (crown) you can take crepe de Chine, orange or yellow silk. You can dye white silk with aniline to the desired color. There are also yellow daffodils, and the color of the crown varies: white, fawn, light yellow, orange and even red.

The narcissus has six petals. For the corolla, two modules of petals are cut out - three petals per module - and a core. You can also make a corolla from one module consisting of six petals.

If they are making a small crown, then they cut out a scalloped circle and process it in the center on the front side with a grain, and the edges are corrugated with a single cutter. But there are daffodils with a tubular crown. A semicircular strip with scallops is cut out for it. The festoons are crocheted so that they bend outward. The strip is folded into a tube and carefully glued. The tubular crown should not be longer than the petals.

The petals are painted (if necessary) while still wet. After they have dried, they are corrugated with a single cutter along the front side to the length of the petal, 3–5 mm from the edge. And from the inside, the petal is treated with a small boule on a hard rubber cushion.

Six stamens for the daffodil are made from silk or plain yellow and white threads, dipped in paraffin or wax. The stamens are tied to a 20–25 cm wire, then the core is mounted, and then the first module of petals is put on. The second module is positioned so that its petals are in the spaces between the petals of the first module.

On the stem near the corolla there is a cone-shaped cup. It can be made from cotton wool and then wrapped in silk cloth or tissue paper. A light brown strip of paper is glued to the thickening. It’s a good idea to wrap the wire for the stem first with cotton wool, and then just wrap it with cloth or paper, because the narcissus has a soft, oily stem.

When the stem is ready, the wire near the corolla is bent at an angle of 45–60 degrees.

The leaves of the narcissus are long, narrow, and pointed. Wire is glued to them and crimped with a double-row cutter from the front side along the vein. There should be five or six leaves of different lengths. They are attached at the very base of the stem in a bunch.

Orchids are very diverse in shape and color. This is an exquisite and elaborate flower. Here we offer a pattern for the simplest orchid, but using this pattern you can make other varieties of orchids, just by adjusting the pattern and outline of the petals.

Silk is suitable for making petals. For some tongues - panvelvet.

If both the petals and the tongue are made of silk, then two parts are cut out.

If the tongue is planned to be made of panne velvet, then it is cut out separately.

For details A You can immediately select a fabric with the desired brown pattern or draw it on dry petals with diluted brown ink or aniline. At the detail b The petals and tongue are left white, only on the two upper petals, closer to the middle, several brown spots are applied and a yellow spot is made above the tongue (under the future stamens). Petals b. Three wires wrapped in white silk are glued to the back of the petals. The petals are corrugated on a hard rubber cushion with a single cutter from the middle to the edges. The two upper petals are bubbled with a small bubble at the ends from the inside out so that the petals curl back. The lower tongue is corrugated with a single cutter on the front side and on the back, alternating corrugation. The lines are drawn smoothly, fan-shaped. The central part of the tongue is treated with a small boule from the front side along the yellow spot so that the edges are smoothly curved outward, and along the edges of the tongue is treated with a small boule from the front side on both sides of the central vein.

Petals a. They are treated with a small bubble on the front side at the bottom of the petals and ironed with a hot iron along the edges so that they bend outward.

The leaves are made from dense green fabric - satin, silk. Wire is glued onto them from the inside out. The sheet is corrugated with a double-row cutter along the central vein from the back, and with a single cutter along the front side lines are applied (two or three on each side of the central vein) along the entire length of the sheet from the base to the tip. The base of the leaf itself is made expanded.

One or more flowers can be attached to the stem. Each flower is made on a separate wire. A small cotton ball tied with thread is wound onto the end of the wire and coated with glue - this is a pestle. The very tip of the ball is dipped in hot sealing wax or brown-colored glue. The end of the wire is slightly bent so that the ball hangs over the tongue, and wrapped with light silk.

First row of petals (petals b) is put on the wire and secured 1 cm below the pestle. Then put on petals a so that they fill the gaps between the first row of petals. The flower is given the desired shape by hand:

petals b– the tongue is bent forward, and the two petals are bent slightly back;

petals a– the upper petal is bent slightly forward, and the side petals are bent back.

Since the orchid does not have a cup, two rows of petals are glued together in the center, and the wire under them is wrapped with green paper or cloth.

If you plan to make a whole branch with flowers, then flowers are attached to the main, thicker wire in the next order. At the point where the flower is attached to the stem, the orchid has a natural thickening, which is very convenient for assembly - there is less fuss to hide the twisted wire when attaching the flower. At the bottom of the stem, a thickening is made from cotton wool - a bulb, onto which a leaf is attached, clasping the bulb with the end of an expanded petiole.

Irises are the most beautiful flowers. Thanks to selective breeding, irises of the most varied colors have now been bred. It is better to make the decorative embodiment of a flower from silk or cambric.

The iris flower is quite complex, and it is advisable to examine it carefully first. It consists of the following parts: three lower petals, three upper petals, three cut petals - the so-called supra-stigial ridges, a beard and two bracts.

The petals are made from white fabric, cutting them along an oblique line. Then the petals are moistened and painted with dyes on a damp cloth so that the effect of subtle transitions of paint from light to dark is obtained (painted from the edges to the middle). Dark veins on the lower petals are painted with a thin brush only on dried petals.

The upper and lower petals are corrugated with a single cutter on hard rubber from the edge to the middle along the front side. A thin wire wrapped in petal-colored paper is glued to the bottom petals from the inside out. The wire is glued to the upper petals from the front side (the wrong side of the petal is turned outward). The central vein of the lower petals is drawn with a double-row cutter along the front side, and of the upper petals - along the back. You can corrugate the lower and upper petals through gauze - then they will have a more natural look.

The supraglottic ridges are crimped on a soft cushion with a hook or twisted back on a match. The middle from the inside is treated with a small boule.

A beard of yellow or orange color is glued to the top of the lower petals - for white and yellow irises, and white-blue - for purple, blue and other irises. (Purple irises may also have orange beards.) The beard can be made from thread or simply select small pieces of shaggy synthetic fabric of the desired color. The supraglucent ridge is also glued on top of the lower petal.

The iris leaf is made of double leaves from a thin bluish-green material - cambric, thin silk. It should be 2/3 of the stem in size. As a rule, the sharp tip of the leaf is slightly bent in the direction opposite to the stem. The two halves of the sheet, coated with glue, are folded together, and a wire is laid between them in the center. The bottom of the sheet, about 1 cm, is not glued; then the stem is inserted into it.

The sheet is crimped so that it sticks together, and at the same time the sheet is pulled out a little in length with your hands. Then they corrugate with a single cutter, making two to four stripes along the entire length of the sheet, starting from the tip.

First, the three lower petals with a beard and a ridge are attached to the wire (the angle between the petals is 120 degrees). In the spaces between them, the three upper petals are placed so that they close above the lower ones at the bend of the ridge.

All petals are glued around the stem and wrapped with thin wire for strength. Then all the “tails” are wrapped in green paper to create a slight thickening, and two bracts are glued onto it opposite each other.

The bracts are cut out of gray-green fabric and corrugated along the length with a single cutter, making several vertical veins.

The lower petals are bent down, and the upper ones are bent with their ends inward.

The stem is wrapped with a thin layer of cotton wool and then with bluish-green paper. The wire is slightly bent 15 cm from the flower and two more bracts are glued in this place, inside which a tightly twisted bud is placed. The stem itself should be 30–45 cm long. Irises can also be short, then you need to maintain general proportions. At the bottom, the stem is clasped with two leaves, and other leaves (if any) are planted so that each subsequent leaf clasps the previous one.

Persian carnation

(terry)

The well-known carnation flower, which comes in a variety of colors, is made from silk, crepe de Chine, cambric or fine chintz.

For the corolla, cut out three circles of different sizes. The center of the circles is painted manually with a brush or cotton swab in a darker color than the main color of the corolla. Two large circles are folded four times - eight segments are obtained, which are cut at 3/4. The smaller circle is divided into four or six segments.

The edges of each petal are slightly rounded and small teeth are made, preferably in a semicircle.

Each petal in a circle is corrugated on a soft cushion with a two-row or three-row cutter as follows: alternately, one petal is corrugated from the inside, the other from the front side, so that they are laid out in different directions. You can put the circles together and corrugate them through cheesecloth to give the veins an irregular shape.

The calyx of the flower is five-toothed, gray-green. It is made from thick silk, chintz or satin. You can wax it with paraffin.

If you plan to make buds, then a tightly rolled or half-wrapped smaller circle with petals is inserted inside the tightly twisted cup. It should not protrude more than 0.5 mm above the cup.

At the end of the wire, a small oval winding of cotton wool is made, in the center of which three starched and curled threads - stamens - of white or yellow color are placed.

The leaves of the Persian carnation are thin, long and whorled, that is, they emerge from one point. They are bluish-gray-green in color, often with a matte white coating. They are made from thick silk or satin, well starched and not glued to wire, but simply crimped with a single cutter. After coloring, the leaves can be waxed with wax or paraffin.

The flower is collected. The circles of the corolla are put on the wire one by one: first a small circle, then large ones. The ends of the corollas are tightly wrapped with thread and the cotton wool is twisted a little more under the petals.

Then a cup is put on the winding and its teeth are glued to the petals.

The stem - the wire - is wrapped in green-blue paper and glued to the cup. To make the end of the calyx look neat and finished, a gluing of two rounded denticles (bracts) is put on the wire and glued to the bottom of the calyx.

Leaves are mounted on the stem every 5-10 cm. They are put on the stem in pairs and glued to it at a distance of 0.7 mm from the point of attachment.

The stem of the clove also needs to be waxed.

It is better to make violets from silk, and those used as decoration for clothes are made from panne velvet. It is advisable to immediately select a colored fabric - violet-blue, deep lilac, lilac-pink or white. One bouquet can contain violets of two colors, but it is better that they differ in tone rather than color.

The corolla of the violet consists of five petals. It is cut out entirely. If it is necessary to paint the material, then paint the wet petals with a brush from the edge to the middle, leaving the center unpainted. On already dyed fabric, thin diverging black rays are painted on the three lower petals with a brush or pen, and the very center is painted with white.

The corolla is corrugated on the front side with a small bulb on soft rubber, and two or three veins are drawn along the three lower petals from center to middle with a single cutter. The center of a violet is made as follows: a thin wire wrapped in light green (light green) silk is bent, the end is dipped in PVA glue, painted yellow, and allowed to dry. Then a dot is placed on the yellow tip with a red gouache brush.

The cup is made of light green silk; a single cutter is drawn along a line on its teeth.

The leaves are made of thick silk, preferably grass-green in color (without blue). A thin wire is glued to the round leaf blade from the inside and crimped with a single cutter. The wire is taken 6–8 cm long - the length of the leaf blade and petiole. Then, from the inside, a small relief is pressed between the veins with a small boule.

Violets also have two types of light green stipules. Some are glued at the place where the leaves are attached, others are attached in pairs on long peduncles.

Place a corolla on the wire with the center so that the yellow center just peeks out from the petals. A cup is placed on the wire through the hole at the back, the bottom of the cup is rolled into a tube, and its teeth are lightly glued to the rim. The wire is wrapped in light green silk. At the bottom, leaves on petioles are attached to the peduncles (their length is 8-10 cm). The attachment points are hidden under glued stipules.

If a bouquet of violets is intended to decorate clothes, then the peduncles and leaves on the petioles are simply formed into a small bouquet and tied with a silk ribbon.

Pansies

Unlike violets, pansies are best made from panne velvet. The variety of colors of pansies and a large selection of materials in stores allow you to choose factory-dyed panvelvet. All that remains is to starch it.

Four parts are cut out for the rim, all of which can be one or two colors. Often, pansies have upper petals that are colored in contrasting colors to the lower petals: blue-violet, violet, black, purple-red, while the bottom can be white, blue, yellow, brick red, etc.

This makes the pansies look very elegant. On the lower and two side petals, figured spots or strokes emanating from the center are drawn with black or dark purple ink.

The petals are corrugated along the front side with a single cutter, starting from the edge to the middle. From the inside, the edges of the petals are treated with a small boule.

The core is made the same as that of violets, it is only important to maintain the proportions.

The cup is cut out of green satin or silk. The leaves, narrower than those of violets, are made of dense dark green silk.

When assembled, the upper left petal overlaps halfway with the right one. The central lower petal overlaps the lower side petals and also slightly overlaps them, and they, in turn, overlap the two upper petals to the middle.

The stem is wrapped in light green silk cloth.

Clematis

Clematis is a very decorative flower, easy to make. It can be made from cambric, chintz, satin or silk. Color - white, lilac, pink, raspberry, blue and black-violet.

The inside of clematis petals is a light gray-green color, and therefore they are painted with white.

The corolla consists of six to eight petals. To make a flower, two circles of petals are cut out, with three or four petals in each. Each petal is corrugated on the front side with a three-row cutter, and along the edges with a single cutter. From the inside out, the space between the veins is ironed with a small boule or hook. The center from the front side is treated with bulk.

The stamens are made from cotton threads No. 10 or black-violet iris, and the ends are dipped 2/3 in PVA glue with white.

The leaves can be made from any green material. Three leaves are collected on a long petiole.

Sweet pea

Large sweet pea flowers of various colors are made of silk, crepe de Chine or cambric. It is better to use already dyed fabrics that can be combined for this flower, for example: white top and bluish bottom, pink and burgundy, etc.

For the corolla, three patterns are made: the upper curly petal - “flag”, the double middle petal - “wings” and also the double third petal - “boat”. Using this pattern, you can, observing the proportions, make flowers of acacia, wisteria, and simple garden peas.

The “flag” is corrugated from the inside with a double-row cutter on hard rubber and processed from the front side in the center with a small bun. “Wings” and “boat” are fired from the inside out. The green cup is also bubbled in the center.

The “wings” and “boat” are folded in half, the “wings” are put on the “boat”, and the “flag” is placed on top of them. The petals are attached to a wire coated with glue and sewn together at the point of attachment. Then the cup is put on.

Paired leaves are made from bluish-green tissue. The place where the leaf attaches to the stem is hidden by the stipule.

Disentra ("broken heart")

This is a very beautiful decorative flower. The flat corolla consists of fused bright pink petals in the shape of a heart.

The petals are double. They are cut from chintz, silk or satin according to a pattern, processed from the inside with a soft rubber bun in the center and then glued along the edges.

To make the center, twist a small layer of cotton wool onto a thin wire and glue a figured white tongue with a yellow spot, which hangs 2/3 from the rim. The tongue is also made double and corrugated in the center with a corrugated string, and along the edges with a crochet hook.

The sheet is cut out of satin.

Branch of a blossoming apple tree

Simple and elegant apple blossoms are made from white cambric, silk or crepe de Chine.

The corolla, consisting of five petals, is cut out in one piece. The petals are tinted with pink dye. To do this, apply a light pink blush to the slightly damp petals from the inside with a cotton swab. A hole is pierced in the middle of the corolla. The center of the circle on the front side is boiled with a small batch on a cushion of sand, and each petal is treated in the same way.

Apple tree flowers grow in bunches on a branch. To get such a bundle, take several thin wires and twist them together, leaving the ends 5–6 cm long. The 1 cm long stamens are made quite thick from white or slightly pinkish starched silk threads and attached to the ends of thin wires. The ends of the stamens are trimmed and dipped in yellow paint with PVA glue or yellow semolina.

The cup is made with five teeth from green calico and is corrugated on hard rubber with a grain in the middle and a two-row cutter - along each tooth from the edge to the center.

For leaves, any dense green material will do. Wire is glued to the sheet from the inside, it is corrugated with a double-row cutter along the vein and side veins are applied with a single cutter along the front side.

A corolla is placed on a thin wire with stamens, the teeth of the cup are bent slightly downwards. The corolla and calyx are glued to the base of the bunch of stamens.

You can make a bud on one of the wires. A ball of cotton wool is wrapped in two pink and white petals cut separately. A cup is glued to the bud, the teeth of which are bent to the sides.

Several flowers are collected in a bunch, which is attached to the stem. The wire under the flowers is wrapped with green paper and a couple of leaves are attached to it. The flowers bend beautifully in different directions. Two or three more wires with bunches of flowers and leaves are screwed to the main wire. Then the main stem is slightly bent and wrapped in brown paper, which is tinted in some places with dark brown paint.

Jasmine (mock orange)

The jasmine branch is made according to the same principle as the branch with apple blossoms. The differences are purely biological. The jasmine corolla has four petals, dense yellow stamens and narrower leaves that sit in pairs on the stem.

The corolla is cut according to a pattern from pure white silk or cambric.

Terry jasmine

For the corolla, three or four petal circles of different sizes are cut out. Each circle of petals is corrugated in the middle with a small hot bun on a soft sand cushion. Using your finger, make a small indentation on the pillow, in which each petal is treated with a bouillon.

Stamens are made from starched yellow thread, silk or cotton No. 10.

The four-pronged calyx is located in the center.

The leaves are made from dark green satin. You can glue one wire to two sheets at once. The front leaves are corrugated with a double-row cutter along the central vein, and the lateral veins are applied with a single cutter. They are attached to the stem in pairs.

The stem is wrapped in light brown paper.

Orange blossom

Orange blossoms are the flowers of the orange tree, which in the Catholic tradition were a symbol of the bride and were used for bouquets, boutonnieres and wreaths.

The corolla of the flower consists of five rounded petals framing long stamens. Flowers on short petioles form a dense inflorescence. They are made from white opaque silk (toile).

Each petal is treated with bulka along the edge on the front side.

A green cup is poured in the center.

The leaves of the orange tree are leathery and dense; they are best made from thick green silk or satin.

Assembling the plant is similar to assembling an apple tree branch.

Another lovely flower. It is made from white, scarlet or pink opaque silk.

The corolla is assembled from three circles, each with four petals. Two pairs of upper petals are corrugated along the front side with a single cutter from the center to the edge, and the edge petals are corrugated from the edge to the center. All petals along the edges from the inside out are treated with bulk.

The circles are assembled in such a way that the petals of one circle are located in the spaces between the petals of the previous circle.

The thick stamens are made from starched yellow silk threads.

The sheet is made of dark green satin.

Decorative foliage

Decorative foliage is used everywhere to make various types of wreaths: laurel and oak, garlands and artificial bouquets, as well as for theatrical productions.

Patterns for oak and bay leaves are best made from live or dried leaves. For their manufacture, thick cotton fabrics or satin of a dark green, “grass” color are used. Leaves cut from fabric are glued onto wire and corrugated on the front with a double-row cutter along the central vein and a single cutter along the side veins. After this, the leaves are attached to the main wire, twisted in the form of a wreath, and straightened outward as much as possible. Oak and bay leaves are covered with a thin layer of paraffin or wax.

For autumn maple leaves, cotton chintz and satin, silk and viscose fabrics in yellow-orange-red colors are suitable. The tips of the leaves are slightly tinted brown or green. In addition to the corrugation of maple leaves, the tips are slightly crocheted.

Herbs for bouquets and wreaths (sedge) are cut into strips of starched fabric or paper and a wire is glued to them in the center. They can be coated with paraffin or thin varnish.

It is customary to “dilute” bouquets with artificial flowers with plants with small leaves (such as ferns). They are easy to make, but require patience and accuracy. The pattern is made as follows: draw a circle and divide it into curly segments with the desired pattern. Each cut segment is glued onto a thin wire and crimped with a double-row cutter. Then all the finished leaves are mounted on a wire base. The base is either painted with green or brown paint, or wrapped in tissue paper.

Ritual flowers

If you want to make a bouquet of flowers with your own hands for a cemetery or columbarium for someone dear to you, then do not gelatine the fabric for them, but soak it in PVA glue diluted with water (1 part glue and 2 parts water, or maybe half if the glue is good) . Smooth the fabric with an iron, laying it on oilcloth (but not on a rag lining!) while it is still damp and finish drying it in an ironed form. It is better to take factory-dyed fabric, but if you want to dye the material yourself, then use professional aniline dyes diluted in alcohol - they will not be damaged as much by rain and will fade less in the sun.

"Fantasy" flowers

Paradoxical as it may seem, in order to start making “fantasy” flowers (flowers generated by the author’s imagination), it’s a good idea to first look at real flowers or even make a couple of artificial flowers of a realistic nature. First of all, to understand the overall harmony of the parts of the flower, the subtlety of the lines. For example, you can come up with a “magic” flower, richly decorated and seemingly matching the color and style of your dress, but at the same time it will look heavy, clumsy and disharmonious on your clothes. And this will happen due to a violation of the proportions of the flower - too large or roughly cut petals, a monstrous center of the flower, etc.

Harmony can only be learned from nature, but a flower should still give rise to associations with a flower. And, as a rule, “fantasy” flowers are the author’s paraphrasing of the wealth that nature already has. Many of the designer’s flowers resemble clematis, roses, lilies or mallows.

Fabric flowers look great in the interior, and can also become a beneficial highlight of not only an evening, but also an everyday outfit.

Master the secrets of needlework and conquer others with your originality! Making flowers from fabric with your own hands is not just a fascinating activity, it allows you to penetrate into the secrets of the highest harmony. And since it is not at all difficult to make a thing similar to a natural creation, this process will bring you great pleasure. Soon after you learn the technique of weaving fabric for petals and collecting them, your home will turn into a blooming garden.

Timeless floral fashion and its types

It is difficult to name a period of history in which artificial flowers were not held in high esteem. There are a huge variety of techniques for making flowers from fabric. People tried a lot, trying to achieve a resemblance to living buds: they used gelatin to give scraps of fabric a stable shape, made petals from bird feathers, wax-impregnated paper, and leather.

About five thousand years have passed since man, inspired by nature, decided to create the first man-made flower. But who exactly takes the lead is still unclear. The ancient Egyptians imitated fresh flowers using papyrus. Greek women wove silk flowers into their hair. The ancient Romans decorated temples with artificial inflorescences during special events.

The tendency of Eastern culture to inherit nature contributed to the widespread use of artificial flowers in Ancient China and Japan. Since ancient times, Japanese women have been decorating their hairstyles with silk flowers.

Sophisticated – Floral hair ornaments, known since Japanese Paleolithic times, became especially popular in the Land of the Rising Sun in the early 18th century. They are individual flowers or complex compositions that are attached to combs or pins. Based on the material and shape of this decoration, it was possible to determine the class to which its owner belonged.

The word kanzashi also refers to a special technique for making flowers from ribbons to decorate hairstyles. There are a huge number of options for folding fabric petals, thanks to which man-made flowers become very similar to real ones.

In Europe, artificial flowers are especially common as an addition to ladies' costumes or headdresses in the 18th and 19th centuries. Exquisite bouquets on hats or dresses near the neckline add additional femininity and sophistication to the look.

Today, many handmade productions of artificial flowers are located in France. The history of some of them goes back more than 1.5 centuries. Such ancient workshops have their own special secrets of making materials, which are carefully protected from prying eyes. Famous fashion houses work closely with outstanding flower artists.

As for the “hot method” of making flowers, which will be discussed further, it appeared not so long ago, because the synthetic fabric necessary for it was invented a little over 100 years ago. This method is based on the ability of synthetic fiber to “curl” and melt at high temperatures.

Secrets of the hot manufacturing method

The “hot method” is the easiest for making flowers from fabric. Petals made of synthetic organza, silk or satin are melted along the edge over a candle flame, then the flower is “assembled” from individual parts that are sewn together.

Such an activity requires a certain perseverance and accuracy, but this is by no means a hobby for a select few - everyone can master the necessary skills.

Some people prefer to improve their skills by copying fresh flowers - if you choose this path, you will definitely have enough inspiration for a long time - there are about 400,000 flowering plants on earth. Others come up with their own flowers. If you have enough imagination and good taste, this option is for you.

Creating flowers from synthetic fabric is not a labor-intensive process - it is more of a relaxation than a job. This activity helps you relax, relieve stress and forget about household chores. And the results of such creativity will delight you and the people close to you for a long time.

What you need for fabric floriculture

Another advantage of the hot method of making flowers is the minimal cost of materials. Before making fabric flowers, you need to prepare:

• synthetic fabrics;
• candlestick with candles;
• scissors;
• cardboard;
• cutting pencil;
• a small piece of thick fabric;
• thread;
• needle;
• beads, beads, buttons for decorating the center of the flower.

How to learn to make flowers: master class

For synthetic flowers, artificial organza, polyester satin (wide satin ribbon) or silk are well suited. A combination of dense and thin fabric of the same color in one flower, or a gradation of shades when the middle of the flower is darker than the edges, or vice versa, looks impressive.

After the fabrics have been selected, you need to decide on the shape - for convenience, you can draw patterns for each of the flower bases. First you need to draw circles (at least 4-5) of different sizes on cardboard, then write the petals into them. After the patterns are cut out, you need to transfer them onto the fabric using a pattern pencil.

You can skip the pattern step if you are confident that you can accurately cut out the desired shape without them. You can avoid making petals at all, but make do with circles - then you will get a flower that resembles a rose. Thin translucent fabrics are best suited for such a flower; satin will look heavy and rough.

When making flowers from synthetics using the hot method, you need to adhere to the rule - the more, the better, regarding the number of bases. You can make 2-3 bases of the same size, or you can make each one different. But in the end there should be at least 8-10 of them.

After the fabric bases are cut out, you can proceed to melting the petals. To do this, you need to light a candle and carefully hold the base between the thumbs and forefingers of both hands and move its edge so that it slightly melts and curls.

There is no need to bring the fabric too close to the fire, as black soot will remain on it. Therefore, for the first test you should not take light-colored fabrics.

Next comes the final stage - you need to assemble the flower from the bases and stitch them right through the center. For the middle, you can use beads, beads, thin ribbon or just thread. You can carefully sew a piece of thick fabric to the finished flower on the back side to hide the stitches from sewing on the middle. If you plan to use your creation as an accessory, you can also sew a brooch pin onto it.

It is more convenient to make some types of flowers by cutting out each petal separately - thick fabrics are better suited for this method.

Beauty and Prosperity

Handmade fabric flowers look great on hair hoops, hats, and summer straw bags. They can be used in the manufacture and decoration of clothing. With such a simple, but at the same time sophisticated accessory, it is easy to emphasize your individuality and make your image more feminine and dreamy.

Now extremely popular. Just a few flowers that match or contrast with the curtain will transform it from an ordinary piece of fabric into a stylish piece of home decor. And tall cylindrical vases filled with fabric buds and petals will add elegance and chic to your living room.

It’s rare that a woman can resist the temptation of flowers - keep this in mind if you are thinking about making hand-made items for sale.

Evergreen bouquets on the tables of a cozy cafe or flower garlands on the summer terrace of a chic restaurant - perhaps you will be the first to take on the role of a good fairy, making the world around you more beautiful with the help of flowers.

Master classes: DIY fabric flowers.

Satin ribbon flower

Master class with step-by-step photographs: How to make a flower from a satin ribbon with your own hands.

1. Take a ribbon 4 cm wide. Cut 5 pieces of ribbon 7.5 cm long and 5 pieces of ribbon 9 cm long. Lightly singe the edges.

2. Fold one piece of tape in half. We sew small stitches along the open cuts, departing 2-3 mm from the cut. The thread should be the same color as the ribbon.

3. We tighten it.

4. Without breaking the thread, sew a second piece of ribbon of the same length. In this way we collect 5 pieces of the same length for one thread. We tighten it.

5. Connect in a circle.

6. We do the same with blanks of a different size. Assemble the flower using glue or a glue gun. I used a button as the center. This flower has a very neat center and you don’t have to glue the button, but simply sew it on.

7. Cover the wrong side with a circle of felt (glued with a glue gun). The reverse side can be covered with a circle of cardboard covered with fabric. You can also cut a circle from a plastic bottle and cover it with fabric.

Using this flower you can make an elastic band, a brooch, or decorate a headband with it.

This flower is made from pieces of satin ribbon 8 cm and 9.5 cm long.

Rep ribbon flower

Cut the ribbon into pieces of equal length. Here I got pieces 7.5 cm long. We singe the sections with a lighter (match or candle) so that they do not unravel.

Fold it as shown in the photo.

Fold it so that all 4 corners are together.

Secure with a needle and thread.

Without breaking the thread, we collect the remaining petals in the same way.

Connect in a circle. And I once again pass the needle and thread in a circle to secure it more firmly.

I bring the needle to the wrong side and stitch there in a circle.

I'm sewing on a button. The middle can be decorated with sewn rhinestones, etc.

I sew an elastic band on the inside.

Satin ribbon rose

Master class with step-by-step photographs: How to make a rose from a satin ribbon with your own hands.

1. Satin ribbon 5 cm wide. This rose took 75 cm long. I singed the edges, but this is not necessary.

2. Fold the edge of the ribbon to the wrong side like this.

3. We begin to twist the corner.

4. Fix the twisted corner (the middle of the rose) with thread.

5. Bend the tape so that one edge of the tape runs along the other edge.

6. Bend along the line of contact of the edges of the tape.

7. Sew along the edge with a “forward needle” seam.

8. We bend the tape again so that one edge of the tape runs along the other edge.

9. Bend along the line of contact of the edges of the tape.

10. Sew along the edge with a “forward needle” seam.

11. And so we repeat until the end of the tape.

12. End of tape.

13. It turns out like this “spiral”.

14. Lightly tighten the seam, evenly distributing the folds.

15. The middle of the bud begins to curl on its own.

16. We begin to twist the bud, fixing each layer with thread or a glue gun.

The type of bud depends on how rigid the tape is, how tightly it was pulled and how tightly the layers are laid.

The tape I have here is quite stiff, it was pulled tight and the layers were not laid tightly.

Making leaves. I also made the leaves from ribbon 5 cm wide - there was no other suitable color.

View from the inside.

I glued the leaves with a glue gun. I covered the underside of the rose with a round piece of felt and also glued it with a glue gun. I glued it with a glue gun and a rubber band.

For a rose with a smaller diameter, 65 cm of satin ribbon was used and it was twisted more tightly. The tape itself is also softer.

Ribbon rose

In order to create such cute roses you will need very little time. They are very easy to implement and, best of all, do not require large financial outlays. It took me less than 10 rubles to make one such ring: 5 rubles for the blank for the ring and 2.5 rubles for the braid.

The roses are made from zig-zag braid (this braid is also called “snake” or “bindweed”).

For the large rose I used 50 cm of braid, for the smaller one - 46 cm.

Master class: Rose from braid

So we will need:
- snake braid
- threads in the color of the braid
- needle
- scissors
- lighter or matches
- glue gun or other suitable glue

1. Cut the braid to the required length.

2. Fold in half.

3. We intertwine (twist) the parts of the braid with each other.

4. Weaved to the end.

5. Carefully trim the ends of the braid and singe them with a lighter.

6. We begin to twist the bud and stitch it with thread on one side (the bottom of the rose or the wrong side). It is better to take the threads to match the braid - this way the work will look neater. For the master class, a contrasting thread was used for clarity.

7. Straighten the rose petals, slightly bending the outer layers.

8. The braid rose is ready.

In order to make a ring, we take a ring blank with a round platform.

Glue the ring blank to the rosette using a glue gun.

Fabric Circle Flower: Carnation

1. Cut out a template from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 6.5 cm. Take a piece of synthetic fabric (the fabric should melt well over the fire). Cut out 12 circles from fabric.

2. We burn the edge of the circle over the candle in small sections and immediately, before it cools down, bend it in different directions (toward and away from ourselves). The edges of the circles are wavy.

3. Take one circle of fabric and fold it in half.

4. Then put it in half again.

5. Secure the corner with thread. We do this with all circles.

6. Cut out a circle from felt. We make leaves from fabric (I used green satin ribbon). We begin to glue the blanks with a glue gun. First, I glued two circles to determine the size of the leaves. Then I glued the leaves and continued gluing the prepared circles.

The first layer takes 4 circles. We glue the second and third layers of circles in a checkerboard pattern in relation to the previous row.

In order to glue the first layer, completely coat the felt circle with glue. In order to glue the second layer with glue, we spread an area twice as small. For the third layer, apply glue only to the middle. Then we drop a drop of glue into the middle and press the petals of the third layer against each other.

Fabric flower (sharp petals made of circles)

Master class with step-by-step photographs: How to make a flower from fabric with your own hands.

1. We cut out templates from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 6.5 cm and 5.5 cm. Take a piece of easily draped fabric and cut out 5 circles of each diameter.

2. Take circles of the same diameter and fold one circle in half.

3. Then cut it in half again.

4. Sew small stitches along the open edges, departing 3 mm from the edge. The thread should be the color of the fabric.

5. Without breaking the thread, sew the second circle. The folds of all petals in one row should face the same direction.

6. We assemble 5 blanks for one thread in this way. We tighten it.

7. Connect in a circle.

8. We do the same with workpieces of a different diameter.

9. Assemble the flower using glue or a glue gun. I used a button as the center.

10. Cover the wrong side with a circle of felt (glued with a glue gun). I also glued the elastic band on using a glue gun.

This flower can also be used as a brooch by gluing the base for the brooch to the reverse side. With the help of such a flower you can decorate a headband, etc.

Another example of a flower with sharp petals made from circles of fabric:

Fabric flower (round petals made from circles)

Master class with step-by-step photographs: How to make a flower from fabric with your own hands.

1. Cut out a template from cardboard - I have a circle with a diameter of 5.5 cm. Take a piece of easily draped fabric and cut out 5 circles.

2. Fold one circle in half. We sew small stitches along the open cuts, departing from the cut 3 mm. The thread should be the color of the fabric.

3. We tighten it.

4. Without breaking the thread, sew the second circle.

5. We collect 5 blanks for one thread in this way. We tighten it.

6. Connect in a circle.

7. I used a button as the center.

8. Glue the button into the middle (I use a glue gun). Cover the inside with a circle of felt.

The reverse side can be covered with a circle of cardboard covered with fabric. You can also cut a circle from a plastic bottle and cover it with fabric. Using this flower you can make an elastic band, a brooch, or decorate a headband with it.

DIY satin ribbon rose

Take a satin ribbon 5 cm wide and cut it into squares. You can take a tape of a different width. A narrower ribbon will make smaller roses, but it’s better to try for the first time on a 5 cm ribbon.

Cut the required number of squares. I have this rose of 25 petals.

We singe the cuts over the fire so that they do not crumble. For scorching, you can use a candle, matches or lighter. I feel more comfortable with a candle, and if I also take an aromatic one, I feel complete relaxation.

Fold the square diagonally with the right side facing out.

We bend two side corners towards the central one. There is no need to seal them over a fire - I sealed them to make photographs easier to take.

Cut off the corners (approximately 5 mm).

We seal the cut over the fire. It is easier to do this by holding the cut in tweezers and leaving it sticking out about 1 mm. It is more convenient to use tweezers that are flat and even (not like the one in my photo). I touched my convenient tweezers somewhere and had to do it with what I had.

We do this with all the squares.

Take one square and twist it. Secure at the bottom with thread. You can also attach it with glue, but I prefer to sew the first petals together.

We take the next petal and wrap it around our center. We place the tips of the petals opposite each other.

Take the next petal and continue to form the bud. I apply subsequent petals so that the beginning (corner) of the next petal falls in the middle of the previous one.

We continue, trying to place the sections of the petals at the same level.

The bottom of the rose should be almost flat.

Continue to the desired size of the rose.

I make the leaves from satin ribbon 4 cm wide. Cut a piece of green satin ribbon 8 cm long.

Let's fold it like this. Once again we fold along the fold line so as to combine points A-A and B-B.

Fold it so that all the corners on the front side are aligned.

We cut the corner.

We seal the cut over the fire, holding it in tweezers.

View of the leaf from the reverse side.

Front view of the leaf.

Assembling the rose: glue the leaves to the back with glue (I use a glue gun). Carefully decorate the wrong side. There are many different ways - I prefer to cover the back with a circle of felt. Then I use a glue gun to glue the rubber band on.

Flower made from bindweed braid (snake, zig-zag)

Master class: Flower made from bindweed braid (snake, zig-zag)

Materials: satin ruffle braid 2.5 cm wide, a piece of felt, a button.

Tools:

I have a ruffle braid made of satin fabric, folded 2 times. I cut 33-35 cm, seal the edges over a candle.

I wrap the braid around my finger, stitching each layer with thread.

View from the inside.

I'm straightening it out. The result is a flower like this. You can leave it like that, or you can decorate the middle with a button or bead.

In order to cover the wrong side, I cut out a circle of felt and glue it with a glue gun. First, I apply glue to the middle of the flower and glue it - the edges of the felt remain unglued. Then I apply glue to the edges of the felt and press the flower against them.

View from the inside. You can glue an elastic band or a base under the brooch. You can use this flower to decorate the headband.

Master class: do-it-yourself ruffle braid flower

Materials: satin ruffle braid 2.5 cm wide, a piece of felt.

Tools: sharp scissors, matches (candle or lighter), tweezers, needle, glue gun (you can use other types of glue).

I have a ruffle braid made of satin fabric, folded 2 times. I cut off 50 cm and seal the edges over a candle.

I twist it around the handle and stitch each layer with thread.

View from the inside.

I cut out a circle from felt and glue it with a glue gun. I start by applying glue to the middle of the flower and gluing it - the edges of the felt remain unglued. Then I apply glue to the edges of the felt and press the flower against them.

You can make leaves from braid and decorate the flower. You can glue an elastic band or a base under the brooch.

Photo: Carnation flower made from ruffle braid

The idea of ​​creating flowers and compositions from fabric is not new, and quite recently it seemed that the art of flower making was almost forgotten. But today it is gaining more and more popularity and already has its own huge army of fans. And this is not surprising, since handmade flowers can be used for various purposes - decorating hats and bags, clothing and gifts, cards and photo albums, brooches and hair clips. Anyone can learn how to make such flowers. You just need to have desire, patience and a little imagination.

History of flower making

The art of creating flowers from fabric has been known for a long time. It was popular back in ancient Egypt. In Europe in the Middle Ages, it was customary to decorate churches with artificial flowers.

It is believed that in the 15th century the fashion for such flowers moved from Italy to France. By the way, the latter still remains the legislator in this direction. It was there that centers for hand-making flowers from fabric were born.

At the end of the 18th century, their industrial production began. It must be said that it was hard, low-paid and, at the same time, harmful work, which was carried out mainly by women and children. The threat to their health was that when making flowers, paints containing elements of heavy metals were used.

By the middle of the 19th century, fabric flowers began to be made in almost every sewing and hat workshop. Around the same time, they became popular in the most fashionable salons of St. Petersburg.

Performance techniques

There are many different methods for creating fabric flowers. For example, silk floristry or classic; the rolling technique used to make traditional Japanese kanzashi - hair ornaments; gannutel, where wire threads and springs are used, and many others. etc.

The simplest and fastest method is flowers made from ribbons and fabric, the details of which are sewn together. They look beautiful on business suits and fitted dresses. This technique is suitable for people who value practicality and comfort above all, because these products can be wrinkled and washed without compromising their appearance.

Tools

If you are seriously interested in this topic, then you should learn the basics of how to make fabric flowers with your own hands. To do this you will need a whole set of different tools. The simplest of them are small scissors with sharp tips, tweezers for grasping parts, an awl, and wire cutters. In addition, special tools are also necessary, such as a hook used for curling petals, various cutters and boules.

To perform corrugation and extrusion of individual flower parts, you will need soft and hard rubber pads, as well as pads filled with fine sand. It will also not be superfluous to use a special mold, which is used to squeeze out the petals of the desired configuration.

In order to get the most realistic-looking fabric flowers, tools called boules are simply necessary. They are used to obtain round petals by extrusion. Bulks are iron balls on a rod, mounted on a wooden handle. They come in different diameters - from 2 to 55 mm. You can make them yourself using bearings.

The cutters are knives with single, double and triple grooves, which are also mounted on a wooden handle.

Various glass vials and jars will be needed for diluting paints, boxes will be needed to store flower details, and brushes will be needed to tint fabric. All these tools and additions to them will be useful only if this art becomes your real hobby. Well, for the first steps to learn how to make flowers from fabric, for beginners it will be enough to have the simplest tools. These include scissors, wire cutters, an awl and tweezers.

Material selection

Fabric crafts such as flowers require careful selection of material. They should look as natural as possible if possible. For this, the lightest fabrics are most often used: silk and linen, cambric, crepe de Chine, chiffon, satin, voile, crepe satin. You can, of course, use other materials. It is believed that the best products are made from natural fabrics. The exceptions are velvet and pane velvet, although the flowers they make are simply gorgeous.

Paints

A story about how to make fabric flowers with your own hands would be incomplete without mentioning coloring. Masters of this craft usually use aniline and confectionery dyes, as well as Rainbow ink, ink, gouache and photo paints. To create the desired shade, they are diluted with water. But to get the brightest color, it is better to dilute them with vodka or cologne, then they will dry out much faster.

Preparation of material

Before you make fabric flowers with your own hands, you need to properly prepare the source material. This is a very important process on which the type of the future product depends.

First, the fabric must be starched to make it more pliable during the manufacturing process. This is done only after painting. Gelatin is used for artificial and natural silk. Velvet and cotton fabrics are treated with a solution of potato starch.

To prepare gelatin, you need to take 1 tbsp. spoon of this substance, pour a glass of cold water and leave for an hour. After it swells, the solution is heated, stirring constantly. Gelatin should completely dissolve.

To prepare potato starch, it is first diluted in a small amount of cool water. Then, stirring constantly, you need to add another glass of boiling water.

The fabric should be dipped into the hot solution and then lightly wrung out. They usually dry it on a fishing line, attaching it with a clothespin. Properly starched fabric should rustle. If the solution was not saturated enough, the flower petals will be difficult to form. If on the contrary, the fabric will begin to stick to the heated instruments. To correct these mistakes, you just need to wet the material in clean water and dry it, and then repeat the entire starching process.

The threads used to make stamens are processed in the same way as fabric. If you want to make them gilded, then you need to add bronze paint to the starch.

It is most convenient to use pieces of fabric measuring 30 x 50 cm for this. Thin ones are starched more strongly, and dense ones - less. To prepare the velvet for work, it is smeared with the solution only from the inside out, without soaking the front side.

Making glue

Often in the process of making fabric flowers you have to glue some parts. The glue used for these purposes must provide strength, dry quickly, not leave any marks on the material and not discolor it. This is why regular stationery will not work. Today, PVA is considered the best. By the way, you can make glue yourself.

Flour paste is prepared from 1-2 tbsp. spoons of sifted flour, pour cold water and mix. The resulting slurry is placed on low heat and, stirring, wait for the flour to brew. This paste is used for attaching “pollen” to stamens, which is made from semolina or starch, as well as for gluing petals and paper parts.

Gelatin glue is prepared in this way: 1 teaspoon of gelatin is poured into half a glass of cold water and after 40 minutes, when it swells, 2 tbsp is poured into it. spoons of flour and 1 teaspoon of sugar. Mix all ingredients well, put on fire and bring to a boil.

Step-by-step instruction

You need to learn how to make artificial flowers starting with the simplest model. They are then used as hair decoration, attached to a hairpin or hoop, or used as a brooch. Fabric flowers can also be tied together and attached to a belt or collar.

In order to create such a product, you will need a minimum of tools that can be found in any home: scissors, threads, needles, a piece of paper, beads, pieces of tulle and chiffon of the same color. Now we make a flower from fabric.

● Step 1. Draw a stencil in the form of divided petals on a thick sheet of paper and cut it out. In the future, it will help to recreate the full shape of the flower.

● Step 2. Fold the fabric several times to form a square. It should be slightly larger than the stencil. We outline it and carefully cut it out along the contour. We repeat this process until we have the required number of petals to make a full flower. You need to cut the petals from one or another fabric. In this case, there were 26 layers. In general, the number of layers depends on the thickness of the fabric and the desired size of the flower.

● Step 3. Place the cut out shapes on top of each other, alternating between tulle and chiffon. Then we align all the layers and use a thread and a needle to fasten them in the center.

● Step 4. To add volume to the bottom center of the flower, secure it with several stitches. This will help give the flower more realistic shapes.

● Step 5. To decorate the resulting product and give it a more glamorous look, you can sew decorative beads or beads strung on a thread in its center.

That's all. Our fabric flower is completely ready. The photo clearly shows how you can do this yourself. And for more complex and realistic forms you will have to apply some additional knowledge and tools.

Care

This article described in detail how to make fabric flowers with your own hands, what tools and materials are needed. Now a few words about caring for them. I must say that this is not at all difficult and will not take much time.

Naturally, fabric flower decorations may become dirty during use. To give the products their original appearance, just rinse them in a warm soapy solution, then in clean water, and then dry thoroughly. If the fabric flowers are just slightly dusted, you can clean them with a feather duster or hair dryer.

Fabric flowers are not only accessories for clothing and hairstyles. They can also be a piece of furniture, decorating, for example, decorative pillows or curtains. You can use them anywhere, even make an unusually original and wonderful wedding bouquet out of them. It will be able to delight you with its beauty for many years and remind you of such a happy event in your life.

I . Fabrics:
Silk, crepe de chine, poplin, satin, chiffon, lining, velvet, brocade, etc. synthetic and natural

II . Tools:

1. Fabric scissors (large and small)


2. Scissors for cardboard and paper.


3. Small wire cutters (pliers, preferably duckbill pliers) for cutting wire, for bending and twisting wire


4. Tweezers for gripping petals during dyeing, for crimping and assembly.


5. Hook or knitting needle for curling petals.


6. Awl.


7. Preferably a set of tools (“bulks”).

8.Pads:

Hard rubber for corrugating leaves and petals, piercing holes (such rubber can be cut from an old car tire and at least 2 cm thick and 15 cm wide (square)

Soft rubber (you can use a porous sponge or thick foam rubber at least 4 cm thick) for squeezing out petals and deep corrugation

A sand pad 15x20 cm (wash the sand, dry it and put it in a bag) is used for convex corrugation of rose petals

Cover all pillows with cotton fabric covers (or simply cover them with fabric)

III . Tracing paper, cardboard for making and making patterns

IV . PVA glue (attention!!! The glue must be transparent after drying)

V .Brushes for painting petals.

VI .Dyes:

Aniline for fabrics of all types and colors (Batik is very good)

Food colorings

VII . Paper:

Corrugated in all colors

Cigarette paper

VIII . Edible gelatin
better to use this one

X .Wire:

from 0.3mm to 2mm. It must be plastic (now often sold in handicraft stores for beadwork, in radio goods)

XI .Colorless varnish

XII . Semolina (tinted) yellow, orange, brown, red, green, gray...

Semolina color:

in 1 tbsp. semolina, add a grain of aniline dye (dry) of the desired color and pour in 0.5 teaspoon of alcohol (or cologne). Mix everything thoroughly. If you dilute liquid paints in alcohol and mix in semolina. Let dry (on paper). Grind so that there are no lumps. Store in small closed jars.

Treatment of fabric with gelatin:
Before gelatinizing the fabric, it must be ironed.

One tbsp. gelatin per 1 glass of water. Pour ½ cup of gelatin with water and let it swell for 40 minutes, then add another ½ cup of cold water and put on low heat, stirring continuously until the gelatin is completely dissolved and bubbles appear on the wall (but not bringing to a boil). Place the fabric on glass or a table with plastic and soak it in gelatin (moderately so that it does not drip). Impregnation is carried out with a hot gelatin solution removed from heat using a wide brush. Cooled gelatin reheat. The fabric must be soaked through. It is better to dry on a line, on safety pins and make sure that it does not curl up.

After drying, iron (without steam).
.

Treatment of velvet and panvelvet with gelatin .

Prepare a gelatin solution for thick fabrics and cool to a thick jelly. Before processing, steam all pieces of velvet with the lint facing up and stretch it onto a frame or hoop. Quickly gelatinize the reverse side and remove excess. Gelatin should not bleed through from the front side of the velvet.

The gelatinized fabric should rustle like paper. But if you have gelatinized the fabric, you need to wash it and gelatinize it again.

This is a “bulka” tool with which petals are processed.
The tool is heated and the corolla or leaf is processed.

Making patterns:

The petals of the corolla and leaves can be made by disassembling (any) living flower, transferring it to tracing paper, and then transferring the outline to cardboard - making a template (pattern)

We transfer the contours of the template (details) onto the already prepared fabric, trace it with a simple pencil and carefully cut it out (be sure to cut off the pencil line)

ALL LEAVES AND PETALS ARE CROSSED STRICTLY ON THE BIAS THREAD (i.e., the center of the petal and the middle of the leaf lie along the bias thread of the fabric).

Master class on making a fantasy MAKA.

This flower version is made without " bulek" (cold corrugation) Only with the help of hands.

Patterns of fantasy POPPY petals and cores (without teeth, the velvet poppy in MK is presented from satin)

Making a bead core:
We string beads onto a wire and form a center of the required size, leaving the ends of the wire free, onto which we then screw the stamens and secure them with a thread, tightly wrapping them around. We make the stamens from wire or gelatinized thick thread (you can use fishing line).

It is made from threads like this: On a flat strip of cardboard (or on a finger, or on two pencils), gelatinized threads are wound in the amount of stamens needed. Then the threads are removed from the cardboard (hand), tied in the middle and cut on both sides to the required length. You can cut the threads directly on the cardboard. To make pollen, the ends of the stamens are dipped 0.5 mm into PVA glue, then dipped in semolina, white or tinted (microbeads can be used).

We form any core you like (beads, threads, lurex, beads, feathers, etc.)

In this MK, for clarity, I use thick fabric. But it is better to make poppies from thin fabrics, then they will be light and airy.

This photo shows a version of the middle of a velvet poppy (see pattern). We cut the part along the dotted line and wrap each petal with scissors (stretching it out), in a checkerboard pattern... face - wrong side.

We tie the curved petals to the core (whatever you can think of) in a checkerboard pattern.

This is what the middle of a velvet poppy looks like.

Organza fabric (you can use gauze) is used to corrugate the petal of the corolla. Corrugation is done by hand, take a piece of fabric 25 x 25, fold it along an oblique line and insert the petal bent in the middle (right side inward). With your left hand we press the petal to the table, and with your right hand we pull and twist the fabric. It is better to do all this at the edge of the table.

The result is crumpled fabric and corrugation.

And this is how the corrugated petal turns out. This is how you need to process all the petals of the corolla.

We take the petal with the front side facing us (if there are no “bullets”), process it with our hands, as shown in the photo, bend it (stretch it), we get such a convexity.

We process the edge of the petal with our hands: we stretch it with our fingers, while bending it in different directions (inward and outward).

The result is a petal like this (pink)

We process all the petals of the corolla in this way. The number of petals is usually 6 - 8 pieces

The processing of velvet poppy petals (from satin) is the same, only it is cut out according to a pattern without teeth (see photo of the pattern above).

Here is a photo of the front side, side view and back side (satin)

Flower assembly:

We take the finished core and, one by one, lay and tie all the petals at the base with threads of 5-7 mm (for strength, you can also glue them with PVA glue). The petals must be tied at the same level. Each petal should be placed on top of each other by approximately half a petal if there are 6 of them, and by 3/4 if there are 8 of them.

It turns out to be a flower that we attach to a hairpin (pin).

lilac poppy made of thick organza, fancy poppy made of kashibo

Master class on making a fantasy flower

based on rose.

A variant of colors with minimal use of “bullets” or replacing them with a knife and spoon (something at hand).

In MK, for clarity, I use thick fabric so that it is better to see what and how...
Ideally use thin fabrics (silk)

Making a pattern

Production of litons:

Take corrugated paper, cut it 5mm wide, cut the tip of the paper at an angle of 45 degrees.

Place the wire parallel to the cut just below the tip of the paper, attach the end of the wire with PVA glue and bend the tip and glue it to the paper, then twist the wire with your right hand, and with your left hand pull the paper at an angle of 45 degrees to the wire (the sharper the angle, the thinner and neater the liton will be ) and twist to the end of the wire (you can periodically coat it with glue). At the end of the stem, secure the paper with glue. Keep your right hand at the top of the stem all the time without letting go. Tint the finished lithon in color and coat it all with glue.

Sheet processing:
The sheet is cut out using a template from gelatinized fabric.

We take the prepared lithon (the wire should not be thick and flexible), spread it with glue and glue it from the inside of the sheet in the center. It is advisable to tint the lithone in advance to match the tone.
Here I am showing an unpainted lithone for clarity, to make it clear.

We carry out the processing with a heated knife. We make the central vein with a double knife from the front side (holding the tip of the leaf).
Then we make lines on the leaf from the front side (single) at an angle of 30-45 degrees and cuts from the wrong side (in the spaces between the lines)

Here's what we get:

We make the core you like: beads, bugles, feathers, etc.

We process a small whisk (for pendants) with a hot “bulk” (a ball-object suitable in size) from the edge to the center (on rubber) from the inside out.Before processing, you need to moisten the petals a little (put them on a damp cloth for a few minutes) from the front side, from the edge to the center and in the center (the “bulks” can be replaced with a spoon or other object of suitable size)

If during the process of processing the “bulks” the edges have unraveled a little, they can be twisted again.

Flower assembly:

We put the petals on the core (be sure to glue them), in a checkerboard pattern.

And we form the following flower options:

The pendants are made like this: we string the processed small corollas with nalurex thread (in several folds). We make a knot at the end of the thread, put on a bead, then pierce the treated whisk in the center and stretch it to the bead. At the distance you need, we make the next knot, put on the bead, the whisk, and so on until the end.

We form a flower.

Such flowers can be made based on one pattern, just various additions and decorations. Here for clarity, I used thick fabric.
If you take thin artificial or natural fabric, you get light and beautiful decorations!

Of course, these roses are made using boules, but if you wish, you can do something similar with a knife and spoon
Silk was used for flowers, artificial silk, satin, green leaves, batik paints were used for interior roses;

for brooches natural silk, satin. and hand tinting with batik paints.

Plasticine cactus

For more details, see Tags - Plasticine cactus