Basic: static or dynamic
There are two types of ropes: static and dynamic. Dynamic stretches. Static no (in fact, it also stretches, but much less). For use as a safety rope on any climb involving any type of lead climbing - sport climbing, trad climbing, multi-pitch, ice climbing - and top rope climbing, you need a dynamic rope because it stretches. When it comes to technical purposes such as transporting goods, attaching something, climbing and rappelling, then a static rope is needed as it does not stretch.
If you're just starting out in rock climbing, the first rope you'll need is a good multi-purpose dynamic rope - and for most people we're talking about a 10 to 11mm diameter rope. You can lead with it, you can climb with a top rope - it will be more durable and confidence-inspiring than thinner examples.
Medium dynamic ropes: 9.2-10 mm
If you already have a working dynamic rope, the next thing you'll probably want to get is a medium-diameter dynamic rope. n around the world this is the main rope standard for most climbers. We are talking about diameters from 9.2 to 10 mm, which give slightly less weight. This rope is easier to carry and climb, but is quite resistant to abrasion and durable. This is the rope you'll take to the toughest climbs, when every gram counts.
Another thing to understand is that the weight of the rope is not just the weight you carry in your backpack, but also the weight of the rope while climbing. The longer the pitch (the distance between stations), the more weight you will have to lift. Indian Creek has long 48 meter pitches. Here, without a doubt, it is worth choosing a lighter rope, because closer to the top of the route the rope going down becomes so heavy that it is even difficult to hook it into carabiners. So if you're planning a multi-pitch climb where you're pulling the rope up the entire time, or you're trying to climb a red point hard sport route, you'll want to choose a thinner diameter rope to cut down on the weight.
Half and double dynamic ropes: 7-8.5 mm
The third type of dynamic ropes are ropes with a diameter of 7 to 8.5 mm. Almost always, such ropes are used together as double ropes (two ropes pass simultaneously through the belay points) or halves (in this case, the climb is carried out with two ropes, each of which is snapped into separate points). This approach is used for ice climbing, mountaineering and some traditional routes.
Static rope
Static rope SHOULD NOT BE USED for belaying the leader because it does not stretch. But precisely because it does not stretch, static rope is very convenient for other things. Climbing a rope, rope railings, lifting a load, a rig for a photographer filming a climber from the top angle. For example, climbing a dynamic rope will be longer, since you will have to go through its entire stretch.
Static rope with a diameter of 9.5 to 11 mm is the main working rope. These ropes are very durable and somewhat heavier than thinner ones. There are also thin static ropes (tape cords) that can also be useful, for example when pulling loads or when making long descents using a single dynamic rope and cord (Tag line). We are talking about diameters up to 6 mm. For example, if you are leading a very long pitch and don't want to stay on top without being able to get down, or are going on a long multi-pitch and think you should be able to get down. Just make sure that the length of the tag line, together with the length of the main safety rope, is sufficient to carry out your plans. So if you lead a 60 meter rope, take a 60 meter tag line. The key to choosing a static rope is to choose the right diameter for your specific purpose.
Other Considerations
Length
First, you have chosen a category of rope that suits your diameter. Now you must decide what length of bay to choose. Typically, ropes are sold in lengths of 50, 60, 70 and 80 meters. Out of habit, people often buy 50-meter ropes. there are many of them. However, today 60 meters is the standard for most single-pitch routes. It can also be recommended to buy a 70 meter rope, as after some time of use the ends of the rope will begin to fray and thin and then you can cut them off and still have 60 meters, which will extend the working life of your rope. Sometimes people need 80m ropes for some routes that are really long.
Impregnation
The next issue you have to decide is how to impregnate the rope. The rope is treated in a special way during production so that it does not absorb water. If you plan to climb on ice or have a winter route ahead of you, you should pay attention to impregnated ropes.
Coloring
Another thing to decide is whether you want bicolor rope. In two-color rope, one half of the rope has one weave and the other half has another. This makes it much easier to distinguish the middle of the rope, which is important for a safe descent to the beginning of the route. If you want to always know unmistakably where the middle of the rope is, take a two-color one. This knowledge is worth it.
Translation: Maria Ovsyannikova
Strong
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the dynamic shock that occurs when falling off. Produced mainly for mountaineering needs. Their main qualities are determined by UIAA standards.
UIAA and EN892 (European requirements) requirements for dynamic rope:
- The jerk force must be no more than 12 kN at a jerk factor of 2 with a weight of 80 kg (55 kg for half rope or double rope);
- The rope must withstand at least 5 jerks with a jerk factor of 2 and the weight specified above;
- Elongation should not be more than 8% under a load of 80 kg (for a half rope no more than 10% under a load of 80 kg);
- Flexibility when tying knots - the flexibility coefficient (diameter of the rope/diameter of the rope inside the knot with a load of 10 kg) should be no more than 1.2;
- Displacement of the rope braid relative to the core - 2 meters of rope are pulled through a special device 5 times. The displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core should be less than 40 mm;
- The marking must indicate the type of rope (single, half rope or double rope), manufacturer and CE certificate.
The Dodero test is used to test dynamic ropes. The best types of rope can withstand up to 16 pulls.
Flaws
- Dynamic ropes are soft and, as a rule, get very wet and frosty;
- Jumars do not hold well on soft ropes;
- When using jumars, the need to mark time until 5-6 meters of extension is reached before the speleologist or climber breaks away from the floor;
- Constant jumps every time the grabber (jumar) moves along the rope;
- Due to bounces when contacting a rock, the elastic rope rubs more;
- Dynamic ropes cannot be used under constant static loads (crossings, railings, traverses).
Dynamic ropes are of the following types:
Single dynamic rope or main rope
Marking -
Single (main) is a type of dynamic rope that, by its design, is intended to be used for belaying during free climbing and has the necessary qualities to reliably arrest a fall with a maximum factor of 2. The thickness of the main rope is most often from 10.5 to 11.5 mm. As it moves, the rope is sequentially snapped into the carabiners of the intermediate belay points.
Advantages
- Single rope is the most durable to use, easier to work with;
- It is lighter than two half ropes (but heavier than a double rope).
Flaws
- Unlike double ropes, it is less protected from being interrupted by stones, ice or from being cut on the sharp edge of a rock;
- It is necessary to ensure that when passing through intermediate points it does not make large bends, since this increases friction during its passage, it is difficult to select the rope, this can lead to a breakdown, slows down the work of the first in the bunch;
- When passing through many carabiners during a fall due to friction, the rope may not lengthen and the dynamic properties may not be fully realized.
To avoid this, it is necessary to use quickdraws and place the safety points more optimally, straightening the course of the rope.
Half rope
A half-rope is a dynamic rope, which must be doubled when belaying. A single half rope does not have the necessary qualities to withstand a factor 2 fall. Half ropes are 8.5-10mm thick. When using a system of two half-ropes, they are alternately fastened into different carabiners and different belay points, forming two parallel tracks. The half-ropes are snapped into the carabiners alternately, distributing one rope on the right in the direction of travel, the other on the left. Overlapping of ropes is not allowed. Usually half ropes of different colors are used.
Advantages
- Each rope is fastened into a smaller number of carabiners;
- When using two half-ropes, friction in the carabiners and on the terrain is reduced, which helps when working on difficult routes.
- They are more protected from interruption, although each rope is less reliable in itself and fails faster due to damage to the braid;
- Convenient for rappelling (downhill) - no need to carry another rope. One rope is used for descent, the other for belaying.
Flaws
- Belay techniques are more complex than for a single rope and require more experience and attention from the belayer. When using the bottom belay, you must ensure that there is no slack in each of the ropes. When a rope is snapped into the intermediate point carabiner, the first one in the bunch selects one of the ropes. The insurer must promptly issue it and, if necessary, urgently return it to its original position. In this case, the location of the other branch of the rope does not change;
- A pair of two ropes is heavier than a single rope;
- Less durable.
Double rope
Double (double or twisting) rope - used as a single rope, both ropes are snapped simultaneously into each carabiner. The diameter of the double rope is 7.8-9 mm. According to some authors, a double rope needs to be snapped into the belay point through different carabiners, since if the rope breaks, they can pinch each other and break apart.
Advantages
- It is easier to choose it first in a bundle (2 thin ropes pass through carabiners and terrain easier);
- It is convenient to use when rappelling;
- Lighter than single and double rope.
Flaws
- It is thinner and more easily damaged;
- It cannot be used for railings.
· Static rope is used for fixed mounting, that is, for hanging wells and installing railings;
· Due to its lower elongation, its energy absorption capacity is lower and peak dynamic loads are greater. They exceed 1000 kgf for a fall of 80 kg with a factor of only 1, while for a dynamic rope this value is rarely exceeded even in a fall with the highest factor of 2.
· The lower the elasticity of the rope, the lower the permissible fall factor;
· A static rope can be used to belay a partner only if the belay is from above.
PrEN 1891 (European requirements) requirements for static ropes:
· The jerk force must be less than 6 kN with a jerk factor of 0.3 and a weight of 100 kg;
· The rope must withstand at least 5 jerks with a fall factor of 1 and a weight of 100 kg, with a figure eight knot;
· Elongation occurring under loads from 50 to 150 kg should not exceed 5%;
· The flexibility coefficient when tying knots (diameter of rope/diameter of rope inside a knot with a load of 10 kg) should be no more than 1.2;
· Displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core - 2 meters of rope are pulled through a special device 5 times. The displacement of the rope braid relative to the core should be no more than 15 mm;
· The weight of the rope braid should not exceed a certain proportion of the total weight of the rope;
· Static breaking force - the rope must withstand at least 22 kN (for ropes with a diameter of 10 mm or more) or 18 kN (for 9 mm ropes), with a figure eight knot - 15 kN.
· Marking - at the ends of the rope the type of rope (A or B), diameter, manufacturer is indicated.
There are 2 types of static ropes:
Type A
Type A - used for high-altitude and rescue work, as well as for speleology.
Type B
Type B is a rope of smaller diameter with a lower load than a type A rope. It can only be used for rappelling.
Static-dynamic rope
In an effort to combine the properties of dynamic and static ropes in one rope, designers from several companies developed a version of it - the so-called static-dynamic rope.
Static-dynamic rope also has a cable structure, but consists of three structural elements: two load-bearing cores that are different in their dynamic qualities and a protective braid. The central core of static-dynamic ropes consists of polyester or Kevlar fibers. It is pre-tensioned to a certain limit to reduce its ability to elongate under load. The second core, braided around the central one, is made of polyamide fibers, which are more elastic than polyester or Kevlar. The protective braiding fibers are also polyamide.
The idea behind this design is this: during normal use, that is, during descent and ascent, the load is taken entirely by the less elastic core, and the behavior of the rope up to a load of 650-700 kg is static. With a load of over 700 kg, this core breaks and at the same time absorbs part of the fall energy. The remaining part of it is absorbed by the much more elastic polyamide core that comes into action.
Miscellaneous
Strength of ropes
The declared tensile strength values guaranteed by manufacturers are very impressive - from 1700 kg for a 9 mm rope to 3500 kg for a 14 mm rope and more. However, many factors reduce the strength of ropes and you should not rely on these numbers:
Any knot weakens the rope to one degree or another. By choosing the right nodes you can significantly reduce the attenuation.
· Bending in knots - depending on the knot, the strength of the rope weakens by 30-60% (from 30% for a nine knot to 59% for a counter conductor knot). The forces acting on a loaded rope without knots are distributed evenly over its entire cross-section. If the rope bends, the forces under loading are distributed unevenly. Some of the threads located on the outside of the arc are stretched quite strongly. In the bending zone, transverse forces also arise, which are added to the longitudinal ones and additionally load the rope threads. The more it is bent, the more its strength decreases;
· Effect of water and humidity - The absorption of water by the polyamide fibers that make up the rope is significant. Knot tests have shown that wet rope is 4-7% weaker than dry rope. When a wet rope freezes, its strength decreases even more, to 18-22%. Wet Kevlar ropes are up to 40% weaker;
· Aging - under the influence of photochemical and thermal processes, as well as due to the oxidative effects of air, polymers are subject to a continuous progressive irreversible process - depolymerization or aging. Depolymerization occurs especially quickly in the first months after production, then the process slows down. Aging processes occur regardless of whether the rope is in use or not. The process is especially intense under the influence of heat and light.
· Wear during use - as a result of the mechanical influences to which the rope is subjected during operation, simultaneously with aging, it wears out physically. The abrasive effect due to friction makes a particularly large contribution to the reduction in strength. A descender littered with clay, dirt, etc. has a particularly unfavorable effect, which contributes to intensive wear of the rope. Even with slight contamination by clay, the strength decreases by about 10% in a short time.
All the above facts lead to the fact that practical The strength of a used rope may be significantly less than the declared values. For example, the Edelrid-Superstatic caving rope produced in 1981-82 has a declared strength of 2500 kgf. After 5 years of operation, its practical strength was less than 700 kgf.
Rope mass
The weight of the rope depends on its thickness. Its value is measured under standard conditions (air humidity 65%, temperature 20 °C) and is indicated by the manufacturer in the rope passport (in grams per meter). Typically the weight ranges from 52 to 77 g/m depending on thickness and design. Wet rope is heavier by up to 40% of its original mass. Nowadays, impregnated ropes are used for caving, which get less wet (“Drylonglife”, “Everdry”, “Superdry”).
Storage
· The rope should be stored in a dry, dark, cool place, preferably in a case.
· It cannot be kept in a stretched state, as its elastic properties are lost.
· If the rope becomes dirty, it must be washed with powder, then rinsed well from the detergent and dried in an unfolded (not stretched) state (According to some sources, it is recommended to wash the rope in warm fresh water WITHOUT the use of detergents).
· Do not expose the rope to chemical or thermal influences. You need to know that ultraviolet radiation has little effect on the strength of a good rope, but any source of heat spoils and destroys synthetic fibers. Do not dry the rope near heating appliances or under the hot sun.
· Carefully inspect the rope for damage to the braid or internal damage, especially before use. If there is damage, replace the rope or cut off the damaged area.
· After strong jerks, it is advisable to replace the rope (the passport indicates how many jerks the rope is designed for).
· The rope can be used for 2 years, but no more than 5 years from the date of issue. In this case, aging of the fibers and their depolymerization occurs. After 5 years, its properties may change and it will not meet UIAA standards. According to some authors, the rope should be replaced after 300 climbing lengths.
Rope length
In mountaineering, there is a unit for measuring the length of a complex slope - a rope. Classically, it is equal to 40 meters, this is a distance of comfortable audibility, and often visibility, of the members of the team, however, this length of ropes has almost completely lost its relevance, giving way to ropes of 50 m each. Recent trends in Mountaineering, the development of belay devices, communications, increasing the complexity of routes , lead to the spread of 60 meter ropes, and the European standard for new routes is 70 meter ropes.
Static rope is designed to have a low elongation rate, has limited elasticity and is primarily produced for speleological purposes, and is therefore called “speleological”. Such a rope can withstand a fall with a factor of less than 1.
Static safety and rescue rope is used in mountaineering, industrial mountaineering, speleology and tourism for a fixed hitch, tensioning crossings, installing handrails and for hanging wells. For belaying a partner, it is used only if belaying with a static rope is carried out from above.
The main indicator of a static rope is elongation (which should not exceed 5%, and for some - 0%). The lower the elasticity of the rope, the lower the permissible fall factor.
The second indicator of a static rope is its strength (can reach 44 kn, but not less than 22 kn).
When choosing when you are going to buy a static rope, you must take into account that the working load should be approximately 1/10 of that declared by the manufacturer. Two types: Type - A, - used for rescue and high-altitude work, and in speleology. Type – B, can only be used for rappelling, as it is designed for a lower load and has a smaller diameter than a type A rope.
Conditions of use: Speleo - ropes, specially designed for speleology and have great wear resistance. Canyon rope floats on the surface and does not get wet, however, due to the use of polypropylene, it has less strength and the number of jerks.
Store this rope in a dry, dark place. Preferably in a case.
You can choose and buy a static rope from the options presented that meet all the requirements you need.
Buying a rope in the AlpExtrim online store means buying it cheaper!
Types of climbing ropes
Materials
Climbing ropes are made mainly from polyamide (nylon, nylon - strong, elastic, wear-resistant, quite resistant to moisture and to chemicals except acids). Sometimes polyester is also used (less elastic and the rope does not hold the knot well), rarely Kevlar (Kevlar ropes are the strongest, but the least durable and do not hold the knot well).
Twisted and braided ropes
Currently, there are two types of ropes: twisted and braided (cable type ropes). Usually, with the same material and the same thickness, twisted rope, in comparison with braided rope, has better strength and dynamic characteristics. At the same time, due to the fact that a braided rope has a load-bearing core and a protective braid, it is better protected from mechanical damage and the adverse effects of sunlight. A typical rope of this type has a core consisting of several tens of thousands of synthetic threads. They are distributed in two, three or more straight, braided or twisted strands, depending on the specific design and required performance characteristics. For example, the core of the dynamic rope "Classic" manufactured by Edelrid consists of 50,400 threads with a thickness of 0.025 mm, and its protective braid is made of 27,000 threads. Braided ropes are also easier to tie knots.
The protective sheathing of climbing ropes is usually painted. The colors can be very different, but they are always bright, which makes it convenient when working with two or more ropes. The sheath of most caving ropes and “technical” ropes is white.
Rope diameter
The diameter of dynamic and static ropes produced by most specialized companies most often ranges from 9 to 11 mm. The diameter of technical ropes used in industrial mountaineering is 10-12 mm. During competitions, the judge's belay can be made with a 12-, 14- and 16-mm rope.
Important: in practical work, the thickness of the rope relates only to the overall weight, flexibility, ease of handling, etc. and is not an indicator of the reliability of the rope (see below).
Dynamic and static ropes
Factor (coefficient) of fall
The fall factor is determined by the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that holds it.
The maximum possible (and most unfavorable) fall factor is 2, when the fall point is one length of rope higher than the belay point. When falling from the level of the safety point, the fall factor is 1.
Note: Dynamic loads are loads that quickly change in magnitude and direction.
The main distinguishing feature that determines the type of this rope is its dynamic qualities - the ability to lengthen under load. Even when constructing a rope, depending on the desired performance properties, the ability to elongate is set both during normal use and when absorbing a dynamic shock. In accordance with the degree of elongation under load, as well as the purposes for which it is produced, rope is divided into two main types: dynamic, or climbing rope, and static, or caving rope.
Dynamic ropes
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb dynamic shock that occurs during a fall with a fall factor greater than 1 (see sidebar). Produced mainly for mountaineering needs. Their main qualities are determined by UIAA standards.
UIAA and EN892 (European requirements) requirements for dynamic rope:
- The jerk force must be no more than 12 kN at a jerk factor of 2 with a weight of 80 kg (55 kg for half rope or double rope);
- The rope must withstand at least 5 jerks with a jerk factor of 2 and the weight specified above;
- The elongation should not be more than 8% under a load of 80 kg (for a half rope no more than 10% under a load of 80 kg);
- Flexibility when tying knots - the flexibility coefficient (diameter of the rope/diameter of the rope inside the knot with a load of 10 kg) should be no more than 1.2;
- Displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core - 2 meters of rope are pulled through a special device 5 times. The displacement of the rope sheath relative to the core should be less than 40 mm;
- The marking must indicate the type of rope (single, half rope or double rope), manufacturer and CE certificate.
The Dodero test is used to test dynamic ropes. The best types of rope can withstand up to 16 pulls.
Flaws
- Dynamic ropes are soft and, as a rule, get very wet and frosty;
- Jumars do not hold well on soft ropes [ source not specified 227 days] ;
- When using jumars, the need to mark time until up to 5-6 meters of extension is selected before the speleologist or climber breaks away from the floor;
- Constant jumps every time the grabber (jumar) moves along the rope;
- Due to bounces when contacting a rock, the elastic rope rubs more;
- Dynamic ropes cannot be used under constant static loads (crossings, railings, traverses).
Dynamic ropes are of the following types:
Single dynamic rope or main rope
Single (main) is a type of dynamic rope that, by its design, is intended to be used for belaying during free climbing and has the necessary qualities to reliably arrest a fall with a maximum factor of 2. The thickness of the main rope is most often from 10.5 to 11.5 mm. As it moves, the rope is sequentially snapped into the carabiners of the intermediate belay points.
Advantages
- Single rope is the most durable to use and easier to work with;
- It is lighter than two half ropes (but heavier than a double rope).
Flaws
- Unlike double ropes, it is less protected from being interrupted by stones, ice or from being cut on the sharp edge of a rock;
- It is necessary to ensure that when passing through intermediate points it does not make large bends, since this increases friction during its passage, it is difficult to select the rope, this can lead to a breakdown, and slows down the work of the first one in the bunch;
- When passing through many carabiners during a fall, due to friction, the rope may not lengthen and the dynamic properties may not be fully realized.
To avoid this, it is necessary to use quickdraws and place the safety points more optimally, straightening the course of the rope.
Half rope
A half-rope is a dynamic rope, which must be doubled when belaying. A single half rope does not have the necessary qualities to withstand a factor 2 fall. Half ropes are 8.5-10mm thick. When using a system of two half-ropes, they are alternately fastened into different carabiners and different belay points, forming two parallel tracks. The half-ropes are snapped into the carabiners alternately, distributing one rope on the right in the direction of travel, the other on the left. Overlapping of ropes is not allowed. Usually half ropes of different colors are used.
Advantages
- Each rope is fastened into a smaller number of carabiners;
- When using two half-ropes, friction in the carabiners and on the terrain is reduced, which helps when working on difficult routes.
- They are more protected from interruption, although each rope is less reliable on its own and fails faster due to damage to the braid;
- Convenient for rappelling (downhill) - no need to carry another rope. One rope is used for descent, the other for belaying.
Flaws
- Belay techniques are more complex than for a single rope and require more experience and attention from the belayer. When using the bottom belay, you must ensure that there is no slack in each of the ropes. When a rope is snapped into the intermediate point carabiner, the first one in the bunch selects one of the ropes. The insurer must promptly issue it and, if necessary, urgently return it to its original position. In this case, the location of the other branch of the rope does not change;
- A pair of two ropes is heavier than a single rope;
- Less durable.
Double rope
Double (double or twisting) rope - used as a single rope, both ropes are snapped simultaneously into each carabiner. The diameter of the double rope is 7.8-9 mm. According to some authors, a double rope needs to be snapped into the belay point through different carabiners, since if the rope breaks, they can pinch each other and break apart.
Advantages
- It is easier to choose it first in a bundle (2 thin ropes pass through carabiners and terrain more easily);
- It is convenient to use when rappelling;
- Lighter than single and double rope.
Flaws
- It is thinner and more easily damaged;
- It cannot be used for railings.
Static ropes