High-quality roofing work not only provides comfortable conditions indoors, but also protects building structures from the influence of the external environment, guaranteeing reliable operation of all structures throughout the entire life of the building.
In recent years, metal roofing has taken a leading place in the construction of cottages and low-rise buildings.
Their use is due to the advantages of such a roof:
- reliability of the coating due to the strength and durability of metal tiles;
- high artistic expressiveness and the ability to implement complex design solutions;
- light weight;
- efficiency;
- fire safety.
Disadvantages include low noise and thermal insulation. The reliability of a metal tile roof ensures high-quality performance of the entire range of work when constructing the base.
Preparatory work
- Design work is carried out in full with reference to the construction site.
- Construction materials are imported in the required quantity and quality.
- The old roof is dismantled if necessary.
- The geometric dimensions of the building are checked and adjustments are made if necessary.
Roof construction
Material
Rafters
- extreme ones, installed on the Mauerlat and secured with nails;
- using a plumb line, they are set vertically and secured with supports;
- a cord is stretched between them so that there are at least two threads on each slope;
- each subsequent truss structure is checked for position in plan, for verticality and for coincidence of planes (along the cord);
- the next rafters are secured to the previously installed ones using spacers, which can serve as elements of the future sheathing;
- The final fastening to each other is done by lathing, and to the Mauerlat - using metal corners.
Eaves overhang
Designed to drain water during rain and snow in winter from the building wall. The overhang of the eaves overhang (the distance from the wall to the extreme point) can be from 0.4 m to 1.5 m. To install it, a filly (40 mm thick board) is nailed to the rafter leg so that it is its continuation.
You can use an elongated rafter leg for this purpose, but this complicates the design and leads to unjustified waste of timber.
Frontal board
It provides rigidity to the overhang structure. A frontal board is nailed to the ends of the filly. Along the perimeter of the building, a block is nailed to the outer wall so that its bottom is flush with the bottom of the front board and they are connected by a crossbar.
The cross-beam serves to provide strength to the structure and to install a lining, which should ensure good appearance, air circulation and prevent birds from entering the structure of the metal tile roof.
Vapor barrier
It is installed to protect the insulation from the humid air of the attic.
It is made of a vapor barrier film, which consists of three or four layers.
- A three-layer vapor-proof under-roofing film, for example “Vapor Barrier”, is distinguished by the fact that its middle layer is reinforced and this increases its strength.
- Four-layer (Anti-condensation) has the advantage that the bottom layer is made of non-woven textiles and is able to retain moisture, which gradually evaporates.
The choice of method of protection against moisture depends on operating conditions and is made at the design stage.
A vapor barrier film is fixed to the lower (inner) plane of the rafters. Its laying begins from the bottom and is carried out parallel to the ridge so that the film has a deflection between the rafters of 2 cm. Such a deflection will prevent possible damage to the film when the air temperature changes. Each subsequent layer overlaps the previous one by 10 to 20 cm. An overlap of 15 cm is indicated on the front side of the film, which greatly simplifies its installation. The film is fastened with a stapler or stainless steel nails with a wide head. Design fixation - elements of the interior decoration of the attic space.
Insulation
Lay insulation on the vapor barrier between the rafters, using slabs or strips that are 3-4 cm wider than the distance between the supporting structures. This allows you to qualitatively fill the entire space intended for insulation. The thickness is determined by thermal engineering calculations, but it should be 3-5 cm less than the height of the rafters, which will ensure good ventilation of the metal tile roof.
Recently, liquid foam has been increasingly used. Its advantages: simple technology and good filling of the entire space.
But we must also take into account that the air permeability of this material is low and it is made on the basis of polymers. Its installation boils down to applying liquid foam in a layer of the required thickness.
Waterproofing
Designed to protect insulation from:
- condensation that forms on the lower plane of the metal tile at high humidity and low outside temperature;
- rain or melt water, which can get through defects formed during;
- dust and dirt.
Waterproofing is carried out with the following films:
- ordinary, reinforced, consisting of two or three layers;
- superdiffusion membranes with good vapor permeability, which makes it possible to eliminate two levels of ventilation and waterproofing without a gap;
- anti-condensation, capable of retaining large amounts of moisture, which evaporates when environmental parameters or ventilation conditions change.
The technology of waterproofing is the same as that of vapor barrier and differs only in the following:
- the film is laid along the upper plane of the rafters with a mandatory deflection of at least 2 cm;
- the gap from the waterproofing to the insulation layer is 3-5 cm;
- superdiffusion membranes are laid without a gap;
- ventilation slots are provided in the eaves sheathing and in the ridge area.
Counter-lattice
It is arranged to create a ventilation gap in the sub-tile space and fix the waterproofing film. The counter-lattice is made of coniferous timber with a cross-section of 40×40, which is nailed to the rafter along the entire length of the slope.
Lathing
Serves as a basis for. The lathing is made from 100×32 coniferous boards if it does not exceed 90 cm. With a larger pitch, the thickness of the board should be at least 40 mm.
The sheathing is nailed to the counter-lattice parallel to the ridge of the building.
Installation of the sheathing begins with the first board, which is 15 mm thicker than the rest. and is nailed to the bottom of the roof slope. Each subsequent board is fastened in increments equal to the length of the tile.
In places where the roof configuration is complex (valley, dormer windows, ventilation pipes), the sheathing is continuous.
Strict adherence to the technology for performing the listed work will ensure reliable functioning of the roof, and therefore comfortable conditions in all rooms of the building.
And in addition, a short video about the installation procedure.
Metal tiles are an engineered “fusion” of steel strength and the aesthetics of traditional ceramic roofing. Lightweight profiled sheets have virtually no effect on the weight of the structure and delight installers with their convenient dimensions.
A sure plus in the collection of material priorities is the ability to independently carry out the entire cycle of roofing work without the paid participation of builders. Just first you need to find out how to construct a metal tile roof with your own hands, and learn about the rules and subtleties of the process of its installation.
The corrugated metal sheets of the currently popular coating are equipped with double protection against atmospheric attacks. Steel profiled blanks are first immersed in containers with hot zinc, due to which an anti-corrosion film is formed on the surface. Then the outer side of the material is covered with a colored polymer shell, which performs aesthetic and protective functions.
However, both degrees of protection will not be able to withstand the attacks of precipitation and household fumes if the roofing pie is constructed with violations and errors. Condensation will begin to accumulate in the space under the coating, which will slowly but surely reach the metal. The insulation will become moist and lose its insulating properties. The wooden elements will get wet and rot as a result.
You shouldn’t completely rely on the light weight and impressive area of sheets of material either: the rafter system must be strong enough, and the sheathing needs to be such that each element is fixed at the required number of points. Therefore, you should properly prepare for the independent installation of metal tiles, i.e. become familiar with the nuances of constructing a rafter structure, sheathing and roofing pie.
Rafter system and sheathing
Metal tiles are used in the construction of cold and insulated roofs. The rafter system for the cold type can be constructed from steel or aluminum elements. But wood is still a priority, because it is easier to attach covering sheets to it. Insulated structures require stronger rafter trusses, because thermal insulation will be located between their legs. The use of metal in such situations is impractical, so warm roofs are installed on wooden rafters with sheathing.
Note that metal roofing is possible on pitched roofs with a minimum slope slope of 14º. The optimal roof slope is considered to be from 15º to 20º.
The construction of a rafter system for a warm roof with metal tiles has its own rules, these are:
- The step between the rafter legs should not exceed 90cm. The minimum distance between rafters is 60cm. If the pitch of the existing rafter system is greater than the specified upper limit, an additional sheathing is installed from a transversely installed board.
- The rafter system is made of 50mm thick boards. The recommended board height is 100 or 150mm depending on the thickness of the thermal insulation.
- When laid in the spacer between the rafters, it should not come into contact with traditional waterproofing. If the thickness of the insulation is equal to the transverse height of the board used in the construction of the rafter structure, then an additional counter batten measuring 30×50 or 50×50 is placed on the rafters along their direction. It will create a gap of 3-5cm.
In order to ensure ventilation of wooden elements, it is advisable to drill holes Ø 2-2.5 cm in the side rafter legs. Forming holes is an optional procedure, but strongly recommended by metal tile manufacturers. If there are concerns about the weakening of the structure, it is recommended to place them closer to the ridge in two or three rows with a step of 30 cm.
Before constructing the lathing, which acts as a basis for fastening sheets, you should check the geometric parameters of the rafter system. The lengths of the diagonals of the rectangular slopes should be measured and verified. On mansard roofs, the lengths of the diagonals of each part of the slope are separate. You need to check the horizontality of the overhangs and ridge, as well as the location of the outer surface of the rafter legs in the same plane. Timely identification of deviations in geometry will eliminate further errors.
Having convinced yourself of the geometric perfection of the trusses, you can begin to construct the sheathing, the construction of which, by analogy, has clear rules:
- The first batten - the lowest batten on the overhang should be higher than the subsequent row battens. To construct it, you need to take a block thicker than for ordinary laths. For example, for the bottom rail it is 50x50, and for all subsequent ones it is 30x50.
- The initial batten of the sheathing should be clearly parallel to the eaves line.
- The step between the first and second bars is 28 or 30 cm. The step between subsequent slats is 30, 35 or 40 cm. the pitch is determined by the distance between the transverse waves of the metal tile.
- During the installation of sheathing, through penetrations through the roof are taken into account and fastening devices for pipes are installed.
- In the gutters, around roof windows, chimneys, fan pipes and other pipes, a continuous sheathing of boards is installed.
- At the top of the slopes, two boards are nailed to the rafters to ensure reliable fixation of the eaves strip. The boards are installed at a distance of 5 cm from each other.
Among other things, before installing the sheathing, all wooden components should be treated with an antiseptic and fire-retardant compound.
The lathing not only plays the role of a basis for fastening sheets, but at the same time performs another very important job. It forms ventilation channels through which air flows circulate from the overhang to the ridge, and provides a ventilation gap between the waterproofing layer and the coating.
Ventilation ducts must remain free so that air can flow under the metal sheets and exit without interference. On the side of the overhangs and on the side of the ridge, they are simply covered with perforated tape, which prevents dust and debris from getting into the roofing pie.
Structural roofing boards
Eaves boards are used to strengthen the slope and make it more rigid if the roof is planned to be equipped with an organized drainage system or the overhangs are hemmed with vinyl siding. In situations where the hemming is done simply with a board, there is no need to use board reinforcement.
The eaves boards are laid along the overhangs in the grooves pre-selected in the rafters. The dimensions of the grooves must correspond to the dimensions of the board so that the overhang plane remains unchanged and the height of the rafter system does not increase. If you plan to install long hooks used to fix the gutter, grooves are cut out in the eaves board for their fastening. Hooks with a short leg are screwed only to the front board. They are used when the installation of a drainage system was not planned in advance and when repairing old roofs. The installation step of all types of hooks is equal to the step of the rafter legs.
A front board is used if the roof does not have an organized drainage system. It is attached to the ends of the rafters with galvanized nails. Serves as an element for fastening various roofing parts and accessories, including for hemming overhangs. The end board serves as the basis for the end strip, the latter covers the waterproofing laid on top of the board. In addition to its decorative function, the strip nailed to the end board prevents rattling of the roof.
Time to hem the overhangs
Coating manufacturers strongly advise lining overhangs with valves specially produced for this purpose, for example KTV or Vilpe. Siding, corrugated sheets or vinyl soffits are recommended for filing cornices. The extensions are sold complete with connecting parts and instructions. You can economically hem it with a board attached with a gap for roof ventilation.
Specifics of the roofing pie
The composition and structure of the roofing pie for metal tiles depends on whether the structure will be insulated or not. In the simplest non-insulated scheme, only a waterproofing film is used. A vapor barrier is used if the attic space is to be hemmed.
The insulated roofing pie includes three standard layers, these are:
- Vapor barrier. It is located on the side of the future intake of household fumes, i.e. from inside the rafter system. Its job is to protect the insulation from steam. Strips of vapor barrier material are laid parallel to the overhangs with an overlap of 10-15 cm. They are attached to the rafters with a stapler, and connected into a single sheet with adhesive tape. A gap should be created between the interior lining of the attic and the vapor barrier by installing sheathing.
- Thermal insulation. Mineral wool boards are most often used as insulation, the thickness of which is determined in accordance with the requirements of SNiP II-3-79. The material is installed between the rafter legs. To ensure rigidity of installation, the slabs are cut 1.5-2 cm wider than the distance between the rafters.
- Waterproofing. It is needed as a barrier against precipitation. They lay it on the outside of the rafter system before installing the sheathing; they try to install it immediately after laying the insulation, so as not to get wet. The waterproofing material is laid like a vapor barrier, in strips with similar overlaps and fastening methods.
The waterproofing layer is laid so that its sheet overlaps the perimeter wall lines by at least 20 cm. In areas where slopes meet and in valleys, laying is done with overlaps of 20-30 cm. The waterproofing must have a gap along the ridge line so as not to interfere with air circulation.
Important condition: bitumen water-repellent materials cannot be used as waterproofing of the roofing pie when installing a metal tile roof. Waterproofing must allow steam and condensation accumulated in the insulation to pass through.
The method of installing a water-repellent layer depends on the material used:
- The classic version of waterproofing is reinforced or unreinforced polyethylene film, which must be provided with two ventilation gaps. The first of them is formed by the rafter system and is located between the insulation and the film, the second is formed by the lathing and is located between the film and the roofing. The size of each gap is 3-5cm.
- The superdiffusion membrane can work perfectly with one ventilation gap 3-5cm wide. It is created between the membrane and metal tiles. When using a polymer material, there is no point in breaking the contact between the waterproofing and the insulation. After all, the membrane is capable of allowing excess moisture to pass out, preventing it from getting inside.
- Anti-condensation materials with a fleecy surface designed to accumulate moisture. Their pile is quickly ventilated when washed with air, which should be provided with a path. Therefore, this option also requires dual-circuit ventilation, like the classic. It is used mainly in the construction of cold roofs.
All types of insulating materials, except polymer waterproofing, are laid with sagging. This is necessary so that the film does not tear when tensioned. Only the membrane does not need to be laid with sagging - it has the property of stretching.
Around through passages through the roof, waterproofing is applied to the walls of communication pipes by 5-7 cm. Ideally, it is recommended to install an additional waterproofing layer around pipes and other weakened areas of the roof.
Installation of parts before laying the covering
Before laying metal tiles, the following must be installed:
- Eaves strips that prevent dust and debris from penetrating into the under-roof space. They are mounted on top of the ventilation tape attached to the ends and the legs of the drain hooks. The planks are attached to the front and cornice boards with self-tapping screws in 30cm increments. To prevent rattling from gusts of wind, these metal parts are installed with interference.
- Cornice drips, which are located under the waterproofing film. They are needed to remove moisture from the waterproofing.
- A lower valley that enhances protection for concave roof corners. It is a metal corner that follows the shape of the groove. Mounted on top of a continuous plank sheathing. The lower edge of the corner is located above the cornice board. In almost flat valleys, the boardwalk is equipped with an additional strip of waterproofing. The lower valley is screwed with self-tapping screws every 30cm. A porous seal is laid over the lower valley.
- Protective edge around chimney pipes crossing the roof. It is carried out using metal contour strips, the upper edge of which is attached to a groove formed in the pipe walls and treated with sealant. Drilling into the seam is prohibited! The same rules apply when arranging junctions with walls.
- A lightning rod required for the safe operation of a metal roof.
The lightning rod system consists of three main parts. The first is an lightning rod, which is a steel or aluminum rod Ø 12 mm with a length of 20 cm to 1.5 m. The second component of the down conductor is a single-core steel or aluminum wire Ø 6 mm welded to the lightning rod. The down conductor is laid along the sheathing and along the walls, leading to grounding. Grounding, the third part of the system, is an iron beam 1.5 m long buried at a depth of 1.5 m or a steel sheet with an area of 1 m × 1 m, for example.
Rules for laying metal tile sheets
Before laying the profiled sheets, it is necessary to arrange logs for transporting the material to the roof. In order not to lift the covering one sheet at a time, it is advisable to build racks for temporary storage. The home handyman will also need soft shoes, diligence and accuracy when moving on the roof. The work performer is only allowed to step into the deflections of the profiled waves.
When laying metal tiles, you can move either to the left or to the right from the first fixed sheet. The main thing is that the sheet laid on top overlaps the capillary groove. The guideline for choosing the laying direction is convenience. However, it is better to proceed in such a way that the element laid on top is immediately placed under the outermost wave of the previous one and snapped into place with a capillary groove. This will keep it in place and prevent it from slipping.
Typical installation sequence
Indisputable rules for installing metal tiles:
- The starting sheets are attached to the first lath through a wave on top of the transverse step of the covering. Their lower edge extends 5cm beyond the cornice.
- All subsequent fastenings of sheets are carried out in the recessions of the waves from the bottom of the transverse step.
- Along the end board, a profiled covering is attached in all waves.
Before fastening, you must carefully check the horizontal position of the sheet. After making sure that the installation is perfect, it is temporarily secured with one screw at the top edge in the center. Then lay the second sheet, level it and temporarily fix it in the same way. The aligned sheets are fastened together. Do the same with the third and fourth.
Screwing to the sheathing is carried out when a block of 3-4 sheets is laid and temporarily secured. Fix the block at all specified points. Only the outermost sheet is not screwed to the sheathing, so that it remains possible to connect it with the subsequent element.
The process of laying metal tile sheets in several rows differs only in that the rows of material must also be fastened to each other. Sheets increase in height vertically.
Profiled sheets are suitable for pitched roofs of any configuration. However, to properly install a hip or hip roof made of metal tiles, you will have to act according to a different scheme.
Installation of sheets on triangular slopes:
- We find the center of the overhang and draw the central axis through it.
- We take the first sheet and do the same actions with it.
- We combine the axes of the slope and the sheet in fact, checking the horizontal and vertical.
- Temporarily secure the sheet with a self-tapping screw in the center at the top edge.
- We install the sheets to the right and left of the central covering element using the usual method.
After attaching the corrugated sheets, the excess is trimmed off.
Convenience of cutting with marking of material for arranging valleys, triangular, trapezoidal and oblique slopes will be provided by a homemade “devil”. It is constructed from four boards 10 cm wide. The boards are arranged in parallel pairs and connected to each other according to the hinge principle. A simple device will help you accurately outline the segments to be cut.
Final installation work
After laying the wavy coating, you can begin with the finishing touches with a light heart:
- Install passage elements around pipes, antennas and other communications. All components of the roofing pie at the intersection points are sealed with adhesive tape. Butt seams are filled with sealant.
- Screw the end strip to the end board with self-tapping screws every 50-60cm.
- Screw on the top valley strip, first laying a self-expanding seal on the covering.
- Build a skate. To do this, the outside of the ridge area is covered with Metalroll or Figarol waterproofing. Ventilation ducts must remain open. The ridge is fixed to the sheathing with self-tapping screws; the fasteners should be screwed through the convex ridge. The ends of the ridge element are closed with plugs.
A drainage system, snow retainers, ladders for maintenance and fencing, if planned, are installed over the laid covering.
A detailed video instruction will be an excellent way to consolidate information about installing a durable metal roof on a roof with your own hands:
There are many nuances in installing a roof with metal tiles. However, there is nothing super complex in the technology. It is necessary to become familiar with the intricacies of the device and follow them so that you do not have to change the roof again to the next option.
Metal tiles are a facing material made of thin-sheet galvanized steel. It is manufactured in the form of profiled metal sheets with a characteristic appearance, imitating the structure of natural tiles.
Profiling is carried out by giving the sheets a wavy or trapezoidal shape, which significantly increases the performance characteristics of the material. One of the leaders on the market at the moment is metal tiles and...
Before we begin installing a roof under metal tiles, let’s look at the roofs.
TO advantages of the material can be attributed:
- Light weight.
- High wear resistance.
- Fire resistance.
- Relative ease of installation.
- Good potential for implementing design solutions.
There are also minor flaws, which can be eliminated with proper planning and execution of work:
- Low sound insulation: during precipitation and strong winds, metal tiles create an increased noise level. The disadvantage is offset by the use of good sound insulation, the function of which is usually performed by a thermal insulation layer.
- Condensation may form in the interior of the roof; to avoid this, you need to take care of the arrangement and.
Installation of metal roofing: technology and design choice
Roofing pie is a structure made of materials that fill the roof space layer by layer.
The construction of a metal roof depends on the type of roof, which can be warm or cold. Cold roof- this is a roof without laying insulating layers, it is appropriate in cases where the house has an attic, and insulation can be laid in its ceiling. Warm roof necessary when the living space is located directly under the roof.
Cold roof design
A cold roof under metal tiles has only two main layers: metal roofing and to prevent condensation. 
The covering and waterproofing are separated from each other by lathing and counter lathing. Ventilation is carried out at the roof ridge (the place where the slopes meet); this is necessary to allow air to enter the interior space and to ensure the evaporation of accumulated water.
The waterproofing layer is made of PVC membranes or polyethylene films. When laying it full tension is unacceptable film, you should leave it sagging by 20-25 millimeters - this will improve its conductivity and facilitate the drainage of moisture.
The waterproofing is attached to the rafters with a construction stapler and fixed under the sheathing using self-tapping screws.
Thus, the cold roof structure will consist of next layers(in order of distance from the ceiling):
- Waterproofing.
- Counter-lattice.
- Lathing.
- Metal tiles.
Cold roof device
The warm roof pie contains more layers.
Attic roof installation
The main structure here is the insulation; it fills most of the space between the rafters and performs soundproofing functions. Its thickness depends on the climatic characteristics of the region and on the characteristics of the building, most often it is 15 cm or more. Fire resistance is one of the most important characteristics of insulation.
Thermal insulation is laid in the spaces of the grids formed by the rafters.
The most common materials for insulation include:
- extruded polystyrene foam;
- Styrofoam;
- glass wool;
- basalt;
- expanded clay
Another necessary element of the warm roof “pie” is the vapor barrier layer. He protects insulation from condensation penetrating from the side of the room.
The vapor barrier is attached to the rafters using a stapler. She must be below the thermal insulation layer.
Vapor barrier films are made on the basis of polyethylene, polypropylene, and isospan.
Waterproofing is a necessary design not only in cold roofs, but also in warm ones. The principles of its selection and installation are the same for both varieties.
Final roof structure made of metal tiles will have the following ordered layers:
- Bottom sheathing (isolates the vapor barrier from the thermal insulation).
- Counter-lattice.
- Lathing.
- Metal tiles.
The middle position of the insulation between the outer and inner protective layers provides it with maximum safety and wear resistance.
Metal roofing: technology for creating an insulated roof
Between all layers should be left small gaps to create natural ventilation.
Dense filling of the space between the rafters is the key to the reliability and durability of the roof. Insufficient layer thickness cake will lead to the formation of large empty spaces, accumulating moisture and reducing the performance properties of the coating.
The other extreme should also be avoided - too thick layers, since in this case the ventilation will be blocked.
Installation of metal roofing over wooden sheathing
The main purpose of the lathing is roof frame support formed by the rafters. Waterproofing and metal tiles are attached to it, it creates a natural 
ventilation internal roof space.
There are two types of lathing - solid and sparse. In a solid structure, all the boards are adjacent to each other, which provides increased strength of the frame, but significantly increases the cost of material.
In sparse lathing, the boards are located at a certain distance from each other.
- Average optimal value The tilt angle is 22 degrees, the minimum is 14 degrees. A lower value does not provide sufficient structural strength and does not make it possible to use the attic space.
- High angle tilt increases the volume of attic space, but it has a drawback - the windage of the structure increases, that is, its exposure to wind.
- The optimal value of the indicator can be calculated independently. To do this, you need to find one-half of the width of the gable, divide this number by the desired roof height and calculate the sine of the division result.
Rafter system constructed from metal or wooden beams. This main roof frame, the operational potential of the entire structure will depend on the reliability of its device. To create a roof made of metal tiles, wooden beams are usually used.
Installation of rafter beams
It is a system of supports that are fastened to each other in various ways depending on the roof structure, the number of slopes and their angles. The lathing is attached to this system, which is an additional, secondary frame.
Fastening metal tiles to the structure
Sheets of metal profiles are attached to the sheathing. For this purpose they are used roofing screws, which are screwed into the cavity of the tile wave using an electric drill.
As a rule, fastening begins. When performing work, you should move along the profile with great care, as the material is easily pressed.
After completing the fastening of the tiles, you can begin installation additional elements.
These are the main stages of installing metal tile roofs.
Working with this material is relatively simple; the main difficulties are associated with ensuring good ventilation and protecting the roof from moisture and wind.
Useful video
Installation of metal tiles using a practical example:
Metal tiles are one of the most popular roofing materials among owners of country houses. In addition to excellent performance characteristics, it has another important advantage - ease of installation. You can cover the roof with roofing sheets of this type yourself.
What tools and materials will you need?
- Screwdriver and hammer;
- Electric hacksaws and scissors;
- Long staff and marker.
An electric hacksaw is needed for cutting rafters and boards. Using metal scissors, metal tiles are cut.
You cannot cut this material with a grinder. Otherwise, due to damage to the top layer by sparks, the sheets will not last long and you will have to repair the roof with reinstallation of the roofing material.
From the materials you will need to prepare:
- Beam for rafters 50x150 mm;
- Beam for Mauerlat 150x150 mm;
- Lathing board 25x100 mm;
- 30x50 mm batten for counter-lattice;
- Waterproofing membrane;
- Mineral wool;
- Consumables.
The cross-section of lumber must be maintained. Otherwise, the owners of the house will soon have to repair the roof or even reinstall it after assembly.
In addition to the metal tiles themselves, you will need to purchase various types of additional elements: cornice and end strips, valleys, ridge element, chimney apron, snow retainers, etc.
Additional elements for metal tiles How much does a metal roofing cost?
The cost of a roof made of this material depends on several factors:
- Type of polymer coating material;
- Difficulty in roof configuration;
- Type of insulation used;
- Roof size.
On average, 1 m2 of metal roofing costs approximately 1,000 rubles. Therefore, making a preliminary rough calculation will not be difficult. To do this, the roof area in square meters should simply be multiplied by 1000.
Features of constructing a roof made of metal tiles
Of course, the installation of this material on the installed frame should be carried out correctly. This applies to both the assembly of the rafter system and the cutting and installation of the sheets themselves. There will be no need to repair the roof for a long time even if it is properly covered with waterproofing.
Preparatory work
The construction of a rafter system begins with measuring all the walls and eliminating discrepancies in their dimensions. The smoother the structural elements of the house frame are, the less effort will subsequently have to be spent on adjusting the rafter legs. Before starting work on assembling the roof, all lumber must be dried under a canopy for several months. The Mauerlat is installed first, and then the beams for the floor.
Material measurements
In order to draw up a roof plan, various types of measurements should be taken. For example, all the videos available on this topic on the Internet present this process like this:
- First of all, measure the exact length of all the walls of the box. Based on this, the area of the slopes is determined;
- Determine where the chimney, ventilation holes, roof windows, etc. will be located.
In accordance with the results obtained, the sheets and timber are then calculated.
Lumber calculation
After the roof project has been drawn up, you can begin to calculate the required lumber. Their number depends primarily on the angle of inclination of the slopes and the area of the roof. Most often, a gable roof with a slope of 30–35 degrees is installed under metal tiles.
The amount of timber for the rafter legs is determined depending on the step at which they are going to be installed, the height of the roof and its dimensions.
The length of one leg is calculated by the formula c = √(v2 + m2), where v is the height of the roof, and m is half the span length.
The pitch between the rafters on a roof with a metal tile roof is usually 80–100 cm (depending on the width of the sheets). You can calculate the required number of rafters as follows:
- Divide the length of the wall by the selected step;
- Add one to the result and round up.
The rafter system for metal tiles does not require any additional reinforcement. The amount of material required for the sheathing is calculated based on the fact that the pitch between its elements should be 35–40 cm.
Assembling the rafter system
The roof frame is constructed using the following technology:
- Mauerlat is fixed on the walls. It can be fixed with studs embedded in the masonry, or with anchor bolts cast into the upper reinforcing belt;
- Mount the rafters. The easiest way is to fix the legs on the support beam using corners (preferably galvanized ones, otherwise you will soon have to carry out roof repairs and replace them). The top of the rafters is most often cut at an appropriate angle and fastened in pairs using steel strips and crossbars.
Roof frame construction On large and high roofs, ridge beams are often used. In this case, the rafters are secured with planks above it and additionally pulled to it with corners. The ridge beam itself is mounted on racks fixed to the Mauerlat of the short walls of the house frame.
Hydro- and thermal insulation device
Sometimes a cold roof is made from metal tiles. However, most often it is still insulated, as this significantly improves its performance characteristics. Wire or sparse plank sheathing is used as support for the heat insulator from the attic side. They insert cotton wool between the rafters at random. The top should be covered with waterproofing material, securing it with bars.
Waterproofing scheme The strips are placed horizontally with an overlap of 15 cm. Do not stretch the film too tightly. Otherwise, when the rafter system moves due to shrinkage of the walls and wind, it may break. The sag of the film should be about 2 cm.
Roof sheathing
It is correct to assemble the base for metal tiles from fairly wide boards (at least 20 cm). Narrow material may warp under the influence of adverse weather factors. The sheathing is installed using a pole and a building level.
The distance between the first two sheathing boards from the bottom should be very small - 10–15 cm. The sheathing is arranged with the elements fastened to two nails to each rafter. In this way, you can assemble a reliable base for metal tile sheets.
How to correctly calculate metal tiles
After assembling the sheathing, you can install the roofing sheets themselves. But of course, you must first make an accurate calculation of the required quantity. A video demonstrating the process of performing these operations is available on the Internet. You can, of course, look at it, but in principle there is nothing complicated in such a calculation. Perform this operation like this:
- Calculate the area of each slope;
- Calculate the number of sheets required to cover it, taking into account their width and length;
- Add up the results obtained.
How to properly install cornice strips and lower valleys
The instructions for attaching these elements are simple. The cornice strip is installed before the sheets are installed. The frontal board is pre-stuffed. The gutter brackets are attached to it. Next, you can begin to actually attach the bar itself.
Installation of cornice strips Another element that needs to be installed before covering the slopes with metal tiles is the lower protective valleys. Their installation is carried out in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The sheathing under the valley must be continuous;
- Installation of valley elements begins from the bottom up;
- Each lower element should be overlapped with the upper one by at least 10 cm.
Choosing metal tiles
There are several types of metal tiles. When choosing this material, you should consider the following:
- Only sheets made of steel with a thickness of at least 0.45 mm are considered reliable;
- In central Russia, roofs are usually covered with inexpensive sheets with a polyester protective layer;
- The warranty period for good material is at least 10–15 years. Home owners who buy this material will not have to pay for repairs if any problems arise.
Installation of sheets
So, now let's see how to cover a roof with metal tiles with your own hands. Installation of sheets begins from the bottom. When assembling the first row, a cornice overhang about 5 cm wide is arranged. Actually, the instructions for filing themselves look like this:
- The first sheet is attached with one screw at the very top;
- Then several more sheets (2–3) are attached to it along the side edge;
- The entire pack is carefully leveled and secured to the roof frame.
Installation of additional elements
After all the slopes are sheathed, you can begin installing additional elements. First, the upper valley strips are attached. In this case, they perform mainly a purely decorative function. They are mounted on a self-expanding seal.
At the next stage, the end elements are fixed to the gables. Next, the ridge is installed. They fasten it in the same way as the upper valleys on the sealing tape.
Attic roof roof
The installation of the rafter system of the attic roof is carried out as follows:
- Racks are attached under the layered rafters, purlins and tie-downs;
- The ridge is being installed. Its racks are secured in the middle of the puffs;
- Layered and then hanging rafters are installed;
- The sheathing is filled taking into account the characteristics of the roofing material.
Metal tiles are first sheathed on the sheathing of the layered rafters, and then on the hanging rafters. On the latter, in the same way as on the cornice, an overhang is made.
Some subtleties of installing metal tiles
The installation of sheets should be carried out by at least two people in compliance with the following recommendations:
- The capillary grooves must be completely covered by the next sheets in the row;
- All sheets must be carefully aligned parallel to the cornice.
We cover the roof: how to get around the chimney
Scheme of bypassing a pipe with metal tiles The construction of a metal tile roof must be such that in the area where the material adjoins the chimney pipe, water does not leak into the under-roof space. To solve this problem, special aprons are used. The instructions for installing them are as follows:
- Before laying the metal tiles, a continuous sheathing is packed around the pipe. A waterproofing material is glued onto it with an overlap of 15–20 cm over the pipe walls. A groove is made in the chimney itself around the entire perimeter.
- After laying the metal tiles, the lower apron is installed first, and then the upper one. The bent edges of their vertical parts are inserted into the groove.
Subtleties of installing curtain rods
The cornice and end strips must be fixed to the wood of the frame in increments of approximately 30 cm. If this condition is not met, they may subsequently move away, and unnecessary repairs will have to be made. It is highly not recommended to mount them end-to-end. Each subsequent plank must overlap the previous one by at least 1 cm. These elements are fastened with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws in a checkerboard pattern.
Installation of valleys: features
The lower valley should be secured with self-tapping screws into each purlin. Its overlap on the slopes should be at least 25 cm. In this case, there will be no need to repair the roof due to a rotten frame. The upper valley is mounted in such a way as not to damage the lower one. They attach it to the metal tiles either with special corners or with self-tapping screws at the top of the wave (in each).
Fastening sheets to roof breaks
Installation of roof breaks As already mentioned, on attic sloping roofs, metal tiles are laid on the break with an overhang. Before installation, a drip strip (in increments of 30 cm) is usually mounted on the edges of the slopes of such a rafter system for reliability.
Sometimes there is another type of fracture in the roof configuration - with a negative angle. They close it in much the same way as valleys. In this case, the carpet is laid in such a width that it extends at least 35 cm onto the upper part of the slope, and 15 cm onto the lower part. The sheathing under it should also be continuous.
Installation of snow guards
This additional element is mounted on flat roofs to avoid snow avalanches. The instructions for installing snow guards include the following steps:
- Fastening is done with long self-tapping screws into the sheathing;
- You need to make holes in the metal tiles and line them with rubber seals;
- The brackets must be screwed correctly at a distance of at least 35 cm from the cornice.
Installation of lightning protection
Lightning protection scheme for a metal roof This system must be assembled. If the lightning is attracted by the metal covering, you will have to carry out expensive roof repairs. And of course, natural electrical discharge is a very dangerous phenomenon for those living in the house. Lightning protection is assembled from the following elements:
- Lightning rod, which is a rod with a length of 5 m;
- Down conductor (circular wire);
- Grounding conductor made of a metal strip with a thickness of at least 150 mm.
The lightning rod is fixed to the roof ridge. A wire is wrapped around the chimney and connected to the middle of the rod. The ground electrode is dug into the ground to a depth of at least 80 cm and connected to the lightning rod via a down conductor.
Safety precautions
When installing metal tile sheets, observe the following safety rules:
- Cutting sheets and installing them on the roof is done using gloves;
- Take the sheets by the edges from the sides;
- To move along long slopes, special stairs are used;
- People walk on the roof in soft shoes. In this case, there will be no need for early repairs due to damage to the coating.
Conclusion
As you can see, installing metal tiles is a relatively simple matter. Numerous videos and photos available on the Internet confirm this. The rafter system for this material may not be too powerful, since its weight is not particularly large. In this case, the rafters and sheathing are mounted using standard methods. When installing the sheets themselves, you should adhere to all the required technologies: do not cut the material with a grinder and correctly fasten all additional elements. In this case, the roof will be reliable and its repair will not be required for as long as possible.
Detailed instructions for installing metal roofing are presented in the video.
To install a high-quality roof made of metal tiles, it is necessary to carefully study the technology of work, be able to handle metalworking tools and prepare all the necessary materials. The following describes in detail the instructions for the entire technological process.. You can install a metal tile roof with your own hands (although you will still need several assistants to transport and deliver metal sheets to the installation site).
Main characteristics of the material
A metal tile roof is a structure made of steel sheets with a thickness of 0.35 to 0.7 mm (the thicker the sheet, the stiffer and more stable the roof), galvanized on both sides and coated on the outside with a polymer composition (plastisol or polyester). Metal tile sheets usually have a width of 1 m and a length of 1 to 7-8 meters.
Roof covering
Among the advantages of metal tile roofing are::
- low weight (no more than 6 kg per square meter) due to the maximum possible thinning of the steel sheet: from 0.4 mm to 0.7 mm;
- resistance to temperature changes;
- ease of replacement of deformed sheets of material;
- resistance to corrosion;
- long service life (up to 50 years) and reliability;
- relatively low cost of material;
- Huge selection of coating colors (at least 25 different colors and shades).
When choosing a suitable metal tile, it is recommended to pay attention to a material with a thickness of 0.5-0.6 mm, because a sheet with less weight is more likely to deform in the area of the nodes, so you will have to make a replacement. The thickness of metal tile sheets is a very important characteristic, because with increasing strength, the strength indicators of the entire roofing pie also increase. At the same time, the thicker the roofing covering (maximum 1 mm), the more weight the roof has to support, so the rafters will have to be strengthened.
Basic installation rules
The construction of a metal tile roof must be carried out in accordance with established rules, the main ones of which are listed below.
The minimum angle of inclination of a conventional metal tile roof is 14 degrees. If a gable roof structure is assumed, then the laying of sheets begins from the lower left corner of the slope, with each subsequent sheet placed on top of the previous one, taking into account the overlap in one wave. If the angle of inclination is less than 14 degrees (which is not entirely correct), then the overlap should be done in two waves.
Roof structure installation In the case of a hip roof, you need to start the arrangement from the highest part of the structure, and then go down in opposite directions.
The bottom edges of the latest metal tile sheets should protrude above the level of the eaves by at least 3-5 centimeters. In addition, the steel sheets must be hemmed with boards at the bottom and along the edges.
Installation of metal tile roofing is carried out using self-tapping screws with rubberized gaskets, screwed into the waves of sheets along the lower edge in increments of 7-9 pcs/m2.
The ridge must be covered with compacted additional elements. It is correct to use semi-cylindrical parts at the upper ends of the profiles, because due to their shape they are more securely and firmly held on the ridge.
In order to make a roof valley, you will need: firstly, an intermediate structure, and secondly, a gutter element attached to the sheathing using this structure.
Installation of the internal corner of the roof When installing additional roofing elements, gaps always form that must be sealed. The correct way to do this is with silicone sealant, as well as sealing tapes.
From the inside, in the under-roof space, the metal covering remains very cold, in addition, developers often note the accumulation of condensation. Therefore, in order not to spend money later on replacing damaged material, it is important to correctly assemble the metal tile roof pie, including in advance layers of material that provides high-quality vapor barrier and ventilation.
Required Tools
In order to cover the roof with metal tiles with your own hands, prepare the following tools:
Fastening the sheet with self-tapping screws
- Drill-driver (it is necessary to have an attachment for a self-tapping screw with a hexagonal head);
- A tool for cutting metal tile sheets (for example, a low-speed circular saw with carbide teeth, an electric jigsaw, a hacksaw for metal, or a special drill attachment designed for cutting metal);
- Measuring rod and tape measure;
- Tracing cord;
- A hammer (in addition to the standard one, you will also need a rubber one, which is used if it is necessary to correct a section of the structure without damaging the protective coating of the metal tile sheet);
- Gun with silicone sealant;
- Marker.
Under no circumstances should you use a grinder with an abrasive wheel to cut metal sheets, as it will irrevocably burn the cut site and all nearby coating.
No protective film or paint that smooths out defects in metal tiles will save you from the corrosion that appears in the areas cut with a grinder. In this case, replacement of the coating cannot be avoided.
Features and composition of the roofing pie for a warm roof
The key point when constructing a roof made of metal tiles is a properly equipped insulation pie. Any element of the composition of this pie plays a very important role, so if you ignore its installation, you cannot count on the most comfortable operating conditions for the future roof. Therefore, we will analyze each stage step by step. Please note that the layers of the roofing cake have a clear laying sequence, which absolutely cannot be changed.
Layer order So, the composition of the cake for a warm roof includes:
- Longitudinal shoulder straps and rafters(this is the roof frame, roofing structure);
- Vapor barrier, releasing steam from the house, but not allowing it from the street. The vapor barrier film is attached to the inside of the sheathing;
- Thermal insulation material(for example, mineral wool), laid between the joists of the roofing structure (it is necessary to leave space for ventilation between the layers of the cake, because at high humidity the material loses its heat-insulating properties);
- Counter-lattice- a layer of cake, the function of which is to fasten the roofing sheathing. It is attached parallel to the rafters, pressing a layer of waterproofing material;
- Lathing– (bars with a section of 50x50, attached along the slope in increments of 30-35 cm);
- Waterproofing membrane– needed to prevent the penetration of condensate settling inside the roof. The waterproofing is laid in such a way that there is a free space of 4-5 cm between it and the insulation, as well as between it and the coating.
- Metal tiles– spreads directly onto the sheathing.
Ventilation of the under-roof space Features of the roofing pie under a cold roof
The design of a roofing pie for a cold roof is much simpler than for a warm one. In fact, the pie includes only the sheathing, sheets of metal tiles and waterproofing.
Roof installation without insulation First of all, the film must be secured using a construction stapler or small nails. After this, a counter-lattice is placed on top of it, and the screws securing it simultaneously press the waterproofing film.
As in a pie for a warm roof, the waterproofing is attached with some indentation from both the sheathing and the covering material (about 2-3 cm). The indentation is made so that condensate accumulating under the roof flows freely into the gutter. If you do not make an indentation between the waterproofing, but attach it with a tight fit, then the moisture will quickly provoke corrosion of the roof. On top of the waterproofing and counter-lattice, a lathing similar to that used for a warm roof is laid. Installation of a vapor barrier is not required in this case.
The technology of installing metal roofing without insulation in residential buildings is rarely used due to the lack of sound insulation, as in a warm roof.
Roof ridge installation
Before laying the ridge strip, you should ensure reliable ventilation of the space under the roof. If it is decided to make point ventilation vents for this purpose, then they must be sealed around the edges to avoid deformation.
Ridge installation If the ridge is flat, then its strips are mounted with an overlap, and if it has a semicircular shape, then the fixation is made along the lines of the metal-plastic profile.
Ridge roof units with triangular and trapezoidal slopes are arranged by adjusting the ridge strip to the ridge slope, straightening or bending as necessary.
Valley knots
In order to properly arrange the roof components made of metal tiles, you need an intermediate structure and a valley element attached to this structure. In addition, the valley needs to be strengthened by strengthening the sheathing with additional floor boards secured between the main beams.
Installation of the valley The installation of the valley planks is carried out with an overlap of 0.2-0.4 m, moving from the eaves to the ridge. It is necessary to make a side on the bottom bar at the level of the cornice. A seal must be made directly under the ridge and under the last valley strip.
Metal tiles bordering the valley should be correctly cut at a distance of 7-10 cm from the axis on one side and the other.
The valley is attached with self-tapping screws, and if the sheets are cut, then they and the valley must be secured at the points of contact between the metal tile floor and the plane in which the valley strips are fixed:
- on the bar, approximately 30 cm away from the axis;
- on the profile, at the very bottom of the wave, 1.5 centimeters below the stamping.
Sometimes the cut points of roofing sheets are additionally decorated with special overlays, laid from bottom to top with an overlap of at least 10 cm. In addition to their decorative function, these overlays also reduce the risk of snow blowing under the oblique cuts of the metal tile floor. In addition, thanks to the linings, it is easier for water to roll into the valley.
Pipe bypass technology
The roof structure includes not only smooth slopes, but also other elements: chimneys, ventilation pipes and channels. Because of this, the procedure for covering the roof becomes more complicated, so here you need to follow other instructions:
- first, waterproofing is laid on the sides of the object being installed;
- after this, you need to install a groove on the surface of the slope that will drain the water. It should stand no further than 0.8 m from the high wall of the pipe;
- then, according to the instructions, an additional sheathing is placed slightly above the passage;
- steel roofing sheets are cut on both sides of the pipe.
Brick chimney bypass The design will be reliable only if the following installation rules are observed:
- when fixing the apron with self-tapping screws, it is correct to use a sealant;
- the nearest peak of the steel sheet wave should be covered with an apron;
- First, the internal, and only then the external, upper apron is attached, which should cover the metal profile by 10 cm.
If the apron is installed directly in the cut, then water and melted snow will inevitably flow into it, which leaves you with no hope of a warm, functional roof.
The roof structure covered with metal tiles is strong and durable, and provided that you follow all the rules for laying both the metal tile sheets themselves and the entire roofing pie, your roof will also have excellent performance characteristics.