Installation of a rafter roof on a frame house. Types of roofs for frame houses and do-it-yourself installation

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his own home. According to their reviews, erecting a roof yourself is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage with a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, work order and features of fastening all components of the structure.

Types of roofs

First you need to decide on the form. Today the most popular types are:

Features of forms

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, the labor intensity of the work will be minimal and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is installed much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the hipped one, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before you begin to independently construct a roof with four slopes, you will need to seriously prepare. This system has more elements compared to the previous two. In addition, it is not possible to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure does not have gables and installation is difficult or cannot be avoided.

The hipped roof is complex in design, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, an excellent option would be a combined design with. In this case, in the lower part the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the constructed house more comfortable.

Broken line - not the most “architectural”, but very effective in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases they can be accepted constructively:

Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm depending on the cross-section of the rafters;
struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account ease of connection with the rafters;
puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
purlins - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
overlays with thickness from 32 to 50 mm.

Calculations are usually performed only for rafter and slope legs. It is necessary to select the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

roofing material;
snow area;
pitch of the rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay the insulation; for mineral wool, there should be 58 cm of clearance between the elements);
span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case it is recommended to make a small reserve.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you don’t want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you plan to make a warm roof, then the height of the cross-section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account that for mineral wool a ventilation gap of 2-4 cm is made between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, provision is made for installing a counter-lattice (counter battens).

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
frame installation;
strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
waterproofing;
sheathing;
providing ventilation;
installation of drips;
installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to ensure that it is securely connected to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - this element is the upper crown made of timber or logs. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

“Sliding” fastening in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be the top frame of the walls. It is attached to the frame posts with a gash using angles, staples or nails.

Methods of attaching rafters to the frame in a frame house

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

on staples;
on stilettos;
on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, wooden blocks are placed into the masonry from the inside. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Fastening the Mauerlat to brackets. Antiseptic wooden blocks are provided in the masonry of the wall with a pitch of 1-1.5 m

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge and lightly hit with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

with notch;
without cutting.

In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will be more reliable if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed with metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

Wind protection

For a wooden house, you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to the horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge girder. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than plastic film, but provides more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

Proper ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
air outlet in the area of the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying the manufacturers’ proposals and finding out the permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

Seam roofing is a lightweight fireproof and durable covering

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Rafters perform a number of significant roofing functions. They set the configuration of the future roof, absorb atmospheric loads, and hold the material. Among the rafter's duties are the formation of smooth planes for laying the covering and providing space for the components of the roofing pie.

In order for such a valuable part of the roof to flawlessly cope with the listed tasks, information is needed about the rules and principles of its design. The information is useful both for those who construct a gable roof truss system with their own hands, and for those who decide to resort to the services of a hired team of builders.

Wooden and metal beams are used to construct the rafter frame for pitched roofs. The starting material for the first option is a board, log, timber.

The second is constructed from rolled metal: channel, profile pipe, I-beam, angle. There are combined structures with the most heavily loaded steel parts and wood elements in less critical areas.

In addition to its “iron” strength, metal has many disadvantages. These include thermal qualities that are unsatisfactory to the owners of residential buildings. The need to use welded joints is disappointing. Most often, industrial buildings are equipped with steel rafters, and less often, private cabins assembled from metal modules.

In the matter of independent construction of rafter structures for private houses, wood is a priority. It is not difficult to work with, it is lighter, “warmer”, and more attractive in terms of environmental criteria. In addition, to make nodal connections you will not need a welding machine or welder skills.

Rafters - a fundamental element

The main “player” of the frame for constructing a roof is the rafter, which among roofers is called a rafter leg. Beams, braces, headstocks, purlins, ties, even a Mauerlat may or may not be used depending on the architectural complexity and dimensions of the roof.

Rafters used in the construction of gable roof frames are divided into:

Layered rafter legs, both heels of which have reliable structural supports under them. The lower edge of the layered rafter rests against the mauerlat or the ceiling crown of the log house. The support for the upper edge can be a mirror analogue of the adjacent rafter or a purlin, which is a beam laid horizontally under the ridge. In the first case, the rafter system is called spacer, in the second, non-spacer.
Hanging rafters, the top of which rests against each other, and the bottom is based on an additional beam - a tie. The latter connects the two lower heels of adjacent rafter legs, resulting in a triangular module called a rafter truss. Tightening dampens the tensile processes, so that only vertically directed load acts on the walls. Although a structure with hanging rafters is braced, the bracing itself does not transmit to the walls.

In accordance with the technological specifics of rafter legs, the structures constructed from them are divided into layered and hanging. For stability, the structures are equipped with struts and additional racks.

To support the top of the layered rafters, planks and purlins are installed. In reality, the rafter structure is much more complex than the elementary templates described.

Note that the formation of the frame of a gable roof can generally be done without a rafter structure. In such situations, the supposed planes of the slopes are formed by slabs - beams laid directly on the load-bearing gables.

However, what interests us now is specifically the design of the rafter system of a gable roof, and it can involve either hanging or layered rafters, or a combination of both types.

Subtleties of fastening rafter legs

The rafter system is fastened to brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete walls through a Mauerlat, which in turn is fixed with anchors.

Between the Mauerlat, which is a wooden frame, and the walls made of the specified materials, a waterproofing layer made of roofing felt, waterproofing material, etc. is required.

The top of brick walls is sometimes specially laid out so that along the outer perimeter there is something like a low parapet. This is so that the mauerlat placed inside the parapet and the walls do not push apart the rafter legs.

The rafters of the roof frame of wooden houses rest on the upper crown or on the ceiling beams. The connection in all cases is made by notches and is duplicated with nails, bolts, metal or wooden plates.

How to do without mind-boggling calculations?

It is highly desirable that the cross-section and linear dimensions of wooden beams be determined by the project. The designer will provide clear calculation justification for the geometric parameters of the board or beam, taking into account the entire range of loads and weather conditions. If the home craftsman does not have a design development at his disposal, his path lies on the construction site of a house with a similar roofing structure.

You don’t have to pay attention to the number of floors of the building being constructed. It is easier and more correct to find out the required dimensions from the foreman than to find out them from the owners of a shaky self-built building. After all, in the hands of the foreman is documentation with a clear calculation of the loads per 1 m² of roof in a specific region.

The installation pitch of the rafters determines the type and weight of the roofing. The heavier it is, the smaller the distance between the rafter legs should be. For laying clay tiles, for example, the optimal distance between the rafters will be 0.6-0.7 m, and for corrugated sheets 1.5-2.0 m is acceptable.

However, even if the pitch required for proper installation of the roof is exceeded, there is a way out. This is a reinforcing counter-lattice device. True, it will increase both the weight of the roof and the construction budget. Therefore, it is better to understand the pitch of the rafters before constructing the rafter system.

Craftsmen calculate the pitch of the rafters according to the design features of the building, simply dividing the length of the slope into equal distances. For insulated roofs, the pitch between the rafters is selected based on the width of the insulation slabs.

You can find it on our website, which may also help you a lot during construction.

Rafter structures of layered type

Layered rafter structures are much simpler to construct than their hanging counterparts. A reasonable advantage of the layered scheme is to ensure adequate ventilation, which is directly related to long-term service.

Distinctive design features:

It is mandatory to have support under the ridge heel of the rafter leg. The role of support can be played by a purlin - a wooden beam resting on posts or on the internal wall of the building, or the upper end of an adjacent rafter.
Using a Mauerlat to erect a truss structure on walls made of brick or artificial stone.
The use of additional purlins and racks where the rafter legs, due to the large size of the roof, require additional support points.

The disadvantage of the scheme is the presence of structural elements that affect the layout of the internal space of the attic in use.

If the attic is cold and it is not intended to organize useful rooms, then the layered structure of the rafter system for installing a gable roof should be given preference.

Typical sequence of work for the construction of a layered truss structure:

First of all, we measure the heights of the building, the diagonals and horizontality of the upper cut of the frame. If we identify vertical deviations in brick and concrete walls, we eliminate them with a cement-sand screed. Exceeding the heights of the log house is cut off. By placing wood chips under the mauerlat, vertical flaws can be combated if their size is insignificant.
The floor surface for laying the bed must also be leveled. It, the Mauerlat and the girder must be clearly horizontal, but the location of the listed elements in the same plane is not necessary.
We treat all wooden parts of the structure with fire retardants and antiseptics before installation.
We lay waterproofing on concrete and brick walls for installation of the Mauerlat.
We lay the mauerlat beam on the walls and measure its diagonals. If necessary, we slightly move the bars and turn the corners, trying to achieve the ideal geometry. Align the frame horizontally if necessary.
We mount the Mauerlat frame. The beams are joined into a single frame using oblique notches; the joints are duplicated with bolts.
We fix the position of the Mauerlat. Fastening is done either with staples to wooden plugs installed in advance in the wall, or with anchor bolts.
Mark the position of the prone position. Its axis should recede from the mauerlat bars at equal distances on each side. If the run will rest only on posts without supports, we carry out the marking procedure only for these posts.
We install the bed on a two-layer waterproofing. We attach it to the base with anchor bolts, and connect it to the inner wall with wire twists or staples.
We mark the installation points of the rafter legs.
We cut out the racks to uniform sizes, because... Our bed is exposed to the horizon. The height of the racks should take into account the cross-sectional dimensions of the purlin and beam.
We install racks. If provided by the design, we secure them with spacers.
We lay the purlin on the racks. We check the geometry again, then install brackets, metal plates, and wooden mounting plates.
We install a test rafter board and mark the cutting areas on it. If the Mauerlat is set strictly to the horizon, there is no need to adjust the rafters on the roof after the fact. The first board can be used as a template for making the rest.
We mark the installation points of the rafters. For marking, folk craftsmen usually prepare a pair of slats, the length of which is equal to the clearance between the rafters.
According to the markings, we install the rafter legs and fasten them first at the bottom to the mauerlat, then at the top to the purlin to each other. Every second rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat with a wire bundle. In wooden houses, the rafters are screwed to the second crown from the top row.

If the rafter system is made flawlessly, the layer boards are installed in any order.

If there is no confidence in the ideal structure, then the outer pairs of rafters are installed first. A control string or fishing line is stretched between them, according to which the position of the newly installed rafters is adjusted.

The installation of the rafter structure is completed by installing fillets, if the length of the rafter legs does not allow forming an overhang of the required length. By the way, for wooden buildings the overhang should “extend” the contour of the building by 50 cm. If you plan to organize a canopy, separate mini-rafters are installed under it.

Another useful video about building a gable rafter base with your own hands:

Hanging rafter systems

The hanging variety of rafter systems is a triangle. The two upper sides of the triangle are folded by a pair of rafters, and the base is the tie connecting the lower heels.

The use of tightening allows you to neutralize the effect of the thrust, therefore, only the weight of the sheathing, roof, plus, depending on the season, the weight of precipitation, acts on walls with hanging rafter structures.

Specifics of hanging rafter systems

Characteristic features of hanging type rafter structures:

The obligatory presence of a tie, most often made of wood, less often of metal.
Possibility to refuse to use the Mauerlat. A timber frame can be successfully replaced by a board laid on double-layer waterproofing.
Installation of ready-made closed triangles – trusses – on the walls.

The advantages of the hanging scheme include the space under the roof free from racks, which allows you to organize an attic without pillars and partitions. There are disadvantages.

The first of them is restrictions on the steepness of the slopes: their slope angle can be at least 1/6 of the span of a triangular truss; steeper roofs are strongly recommended. The second disadvantage is the need for detailed calculations for the proper installation of cornice units.

Among other things, the angle of the truss will have to be installed with pinpoint precision, because the axes of the connected components of the hanging rafter system must intersect at a point, the projection of which must fall on the central axis of the Mauerlat or the backing board replacing it.

Subtleties of long-span hanging systems

The tie is the longest element of a hanging rafter structure. Over time, as is typical for all lumber, it becomes deformed and sags under the influence of its own weight.

Owners of houses with spans of 3-5 meters are not too concerned about this circumstance, but owners of buildings with spans of 6 meters or more should think about installing additional parts that exclude geometric changes in tightening.

To prevent sagging, there is a very significant component in the installation diagram of the rafter system for a long-span gable roof. This is a pendant called a grandmother.

Most often it is a block attached with wooden pegs to the top of the truss. The headstock should not be confused with the racks, because its lower part should not come into contact with the puff at all. And the installation of racks as supports in hanging systems is not used.

The bottom line is that the headstock hangs, as it were, on the ridge assembly, and a tightening is attached to it using bolts or nailed wooden plates. To correct sagging tightening, threaded or collet-type clamps are used.

The tightening position can be adjusted in the area of the ridge assembly, and the headstock can be rigidly connected to it by a notch. Instead of a bar in non-residential attics, reinforcement can be used to make the described tension element. It is also recommended to install a headstock or hanger where the tie is assembled from two beams to support the connection area.

In an improved hanging system of this type, the headstock is complemented by strut beams. The stress forces in the resulting rhombus are extinguished spontaneously due to the proper placement of vector loads acting on the system.

As a result, the rafter system is stable with minor and not too expensive modernization.

Hanging type for attics

In order to increase the usable space, the tightening of the rafter triangles for the attic is moved closer to the ridge. A completely reasonable move has additional advantages: it allows you to use the puffs as a basis for lining the ceiling.

It is connected to the rafters by cutting with a half-pan and duplicating with a bolt. It is protected from sagging by installing a short headstock.

A noticeable disadvantage of the hanging attic structure is the need for accurate calculations. It is too difficult to calculate it yourself; it is better to use a ready-made project.

Which design is more cost effective?

Cost is an important argument for an independent builder. Naturally, the price of construction for both types of rafter systems cannot be the same, because:

In the construction of a layered structure, a board or beam of small cross-section is used to make rafter legs. Because layered rafters have two reliable supports underneath them; the requirements for their power are lower than in the hanging version.
In the construction of a hanging structure, the rafters are made of thick timber. To make a tightening, a material with a similar cross-section is required. Even taking into account the abandonment of the Mauerlat, the consumption will be significantly higher.

It will not be possible to save on the grade of material. For the load-bearing elements of both systems: rafters, purlins, beams, mauerlat, headstocks, racks, 2nd grade lumber is needed.

For crossbars and tensile ties, grade 1 will be required. In the manufacture of less critical wooden overlays, grade 3 can be used. Without counting, we can say that in the construction of hanging systems, expensive material is used in greater quantities.

Hanging trusses are assembled in an open area next to the facility, then transported, assembled, upstairs. To lift weighty triangular arches from timber, you will need equipment, the rental of which will have to be paid. And the project for complex nodes of the hanging version is also worth something.

Video instruction on the construction of a hanging category truss structure:

There are actually many more methods for constructing rafter systems for roofs with two slopes.

We have described only the basic varieties, which in reality are applicable for small country houses and buildings without architectural tricks. However, the information presented is enough to cope with the construction of a simple truss structure.

Your warm and cozy home is almost ready. All that remains is to make the final push in the construction of the so-called box - to correctly design the roof of the frame house. As always, the work will seem very simple and you want to do it yourself, but this stage of work is the most difficult. Here you will need skills in many ways: correct calculation of loads, precise carpentry and considerable experience in working with roofing materials. Let's figure it out in order using step-by-step instructions.

Features of a roof for a frame house

Probably the only element of a frame house that is no different from a structure built from brick and concrete or on a log frame is the roof. After all, if the walls and floor were made using completely different methods and materials, then the roof of a frame house is built from the same materials and according to the same rules. The main functions of the roof are the distribution of wind and snow loads, as well as the ventilation of attic rooms or under-roof space.

Stages of constructing the roof of a frame house:

choice of form
accurate calculation of the design and required materials. Drawing up a rafter system project
marking the top strapping
rafter arrangement
roof insulation (attic floors are especially often insulated along the roof)
installation of sheathing and counter-lattice with waterproofing contour
laying roofing material, installing drainage and snow retention systems, hemming overhangs, cladding gables.

Roof shapes for a frame house

Shed flat roof

For a long time, such roofing systems were applicable only for outbuildings: garages, sheds. The lean-to option has always been considered economical and simple. Indeed, installing a pitched roof for a house is one of the easiest and cheapest. But the development of architectural thought, as well as the desire to comply with the fashion of European builders, brought this option to one of the leading positions in the construction of frame cottages. Shed roofs are used especially often in Finland.

A pitched roof gives your home a very high-tech look that will set you apart from your neighbors. But do not forget about a number of disadvantages of this design:

shed roofs are rarely made with a slope of more than 19 degrees, which leads to increased loads even from rain, not to mention the need for manual snow removal, because you will have to forget about rolling snow masses on your own.
There are practically no attic spaces.
poor resistance to strong winds (a large roof area leads to windage, and a small slope leads to blowing under the roofing material).
it will be necessary to ensure much greater strength of the rafter system due to the above disadvantages.
The main distinguishing design feature of shed roofs is the absence of a ridge, on which the rafters are connected in other types. Here the rafters rest on opposite walls. Otherwise, installation is no different from construction of any other form. Even when installing a 6x6 house with a pitched roof, you will have to think about splicing the rafters, because most lumber is 6 meters long. (and taking into account the slope, the length of the rafters in a house 6 by 6 meters is approaching 7 meters) Pitched roofs were most widely used in construction using Canadian technology. In this case, ready-made trusses or even roof sections are delivered to the site and mounted on the top frame.

Gable roof

It consists of two slopes from the ridge to the walls. The pediments are obtained in the form of two triangles. This is the most common system in Russia when building houses using any technology. Perhaps in recent years it has lost its leading position to hip or mansard sloping roofs, but over the many years of construction of only gable roofs, most houses will have this appearance for a long time.

Let's consider the main elements of the rafter system for gable roofs:

Mauerlat - the top trim along the walls of a frame structure.
rafters - support beam from the ridge to the frame.
crossbar - a beam that horizontally connects paired rafter legs.
purlin - a longitudinal board connecting all trusses.
tie (rafter) - a horizontal beam connecting the rafters along the mauerlat.
racks - vertical reinforcements of the system from the tightening to the rafters.
sheathing and counter-lattice.

This roofing system does not have the disadvantages of single-pitch options. The slope angle of the slopes is usually 30-45 degrees, which significantly reduces the load from wind and snow. With steeper slopes, the load from precipitation decreases, but the load from wind increases significantly.

There are 2 main types of rafter systems for gable roofs:

Hanging - rafter legs rest on the walls and ridge.
Layered - a vertical beam is placed under the ridge beam (it is necessary to have a Mauerlat in the middle of the house). In this case, the main load of the system falls on the central beam, and the rafters seem to pull the walls together, adding to the rigidity of the entire frame house. Quite often, ready-made trusses, designed and manufactured in factories, can be supplied with a wall kit. You can also contact construction companies that will offer you a calculation of the correct design, and possibly installation of a gable roofing system.

Gable-semi-hip or hip roofs

They are a more complex modification of gable roofs, where the slopes have a trapezoidal shape, and instead of vertical gables, two more slopes are mounted.

The main advantage of this design is its absolute resistance to wind loads.

New elements of this design include:

Sloping or corner rafters connecting the corners of the house to the ridge beam.
The main rafters that connect the walls of the house to the ridge beam.
Additional rafters - connect the walls of the house with slanted rafters.

Hip roofs are one of the most complex ones; you should not calculate them yourself. Entrust the calculation of the correct design to professionals or special programs. If you have enough experience in building gable roofs, you can install a hip roof yourself.

Hip roofs

They have a hipped roof. Each of the slopes has a triangular shape, and they all connect at one point. This design has the same advantages as the hip design: it perfectly resists wind loads, does not accumulate snow masses due to the significant angle of inclination, and is evenly heated by the sun.

The key disadvantage is its significant complexity (experience in the construction of hip roofs is required). There are no new elements in hip roofs, but there is also no ridge beam, so a more complex design is required. Most often, hipped roofs are used for two-story houses, since it is very difficult to create an attic or attic space under such a roof.

Broken gable roofs

With the development of frame construction, there was a sharp breakthrough in the use of this type of roofing. This is due to the fact that frame houses are most often built with attics. At minimal cost you can get almost double the living space. Broken roofs are also classified as technologically complex structures. This is mainly due to the use of both types of rafters: hanging and layered.

Main disadvantages

Complexity of design;
Complex insulation technology;
High demands on waterproofing;
The need to create ventilation of the under-roof space;
Expensive designs of roof windows.

As you can see, the choice of roof shape is also associated with drawing up a well-calculated project and marking the top trim. So you will have to complete the first 4 stages of installing the roofing system almost simultaneously. Particular attention should be paid to insulation and waterproofing of the roof. Most often, insulation is carried out along the ceiling of the first/second floor, but in the case of the construction of attic floors, insulation is carried out under the roof to save living space.

Insulation of the roof of a frame house

To insulate attic floors along the rafters, insulation based on mineral wool or spatula fiberglass is used. However, it is necessary to take into account that these materials lose their thermal insulation properties from excess moisture, therefore, when performing insulation, two processes must be taken into account at once:

prevent moisture from entering the insulation from the room;
ensure the removal of vapors and condensate from the thickness of the insulation.

The air temperature above the roofing material and inside the attic can differ greatly, so the formation of condensation is inevitable. How to avoid the harmful effects of condensation on insulation? It is necessary to observe the order of laying insulation and building membranes. The insulation “pie” looks like this:

internal cladding along the rafters (can be rough or finishing);
vapor barrier circuit;
rafters with insulation laid between them;
counter-lattice;
waterproofing or superdiffusion membrane (the use of a membrane eliminates the need to install a counter-lattice);
sheathing (its role can also be played by sheet material - for example, soft tiles);
roofing material.

Making the right “pie” and following the installation technology for each element will help solve problems associated with insulation along the rafters.

Stripe battens and counter battens

The concept of sheathing is purely conditional; it is the preparation of the base for installation of the finishing roofing material. Therefore, the sheathing can be made from edged boards or sheet materials (moisture-resistant plywood, OSB, chipboard). Its thickness is calculated depending on the angle of the slope and the distance between the rafters.

Flooring roofing material

The choice of finishing roofing material depends on the angle of the roof and the aesthetic preferences of the owner.

The following materials are available on the market:

profiled sheet
metal tiles
ondulin
onduvilla
soft tiles
ceramic tiles

Conclusion

After laying the finishing roofing material, the roof installation can be considered complete. There is still quite a lot of work that you have to do: sheathing gables, installing additional elements, hemming overhangs, bringing out chimneys and ventilation shafts through the roof and many others. But if you were able to master the construction of a frame house “under the roof” with your own hands, then you can definitely do this work. If you trusted the contractor, then in this case the information presented will certainly be useful to you.

Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, you shouldn’t take on complex designs. The best option for a small residential building is a do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The timber must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below by vertical posts, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks are vertical beams with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and used to transfer the load from the ridge run to the load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. The side edges of the truss are strengthened with struts and the load-bearing capacity of the structure is increased.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used for arranging an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system. A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and a ridge beam is nailed to the posts. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If ceilings in interior spaces are designed at different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. Before assembly, all wooden elements are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

To work you will need:

timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
boards 50x150 mm;
boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
roofing felt;
metal studs;
jigsaw and hacksaw;
hammer;
nails and screws;
square and building level.

In wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, it is enough to cut grooves of the appropriate size on the inside of the logs.

In brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the purlin between the external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it touches the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut with a circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level of the upper corner of the cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: ceiling beams extend beyond the edge of the outer wall by 40-50 cm, and roof trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on your financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed with various materials - from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

Perhaps few would argue that a house made of wood is a warm and cozy home. Plus, it's definitely environmentally friendly. Their main disadvantage is the price - they are more expensive than houses made of other materials, for example, brick. After all, wood is highly valued today. Houses built using Canadian frame technology are much cheaper. To build the walls of such houses, wood is used only for the construction of the frame.

Wood species are also used to construct the roof of a frame house. Panels made of modern insulating materials are used as walls. Thanks to this, it will take less time to heat the house.

Some people who do not trust frame houses think that such dwellings are very similar in appearance to each other. This is partly true, but to make your appearance unique, you really don’t need much. For example, you can build an original roof with your own hands, but first you need to know how to make the roof of a frame house.

Advantages of frame houses

The unique technology for constructing walls and roof bases allows you to save up to 50% of thermal energy when compared with houses built from other materials.
A roof made using frame technology is lightweight, and this makes it possible to make the structure of the foundation and walls of the house lighter, which, in turn, makes construction cheaper.
Materials used to build houses using frame technology:

do not harm the environment;
provide natural ventilation;
treated with fire-fighting compounds.

Types of roofs for frame houses

There are several types of frame house roofs. The photo below shows this clearly. The technology of its construction depends on the type of roof chosen. Basically, two types of roofs are used in this case:

Sloping. It can have two or more slopes.
Flat. Has minor slopes.

Houses are often built with the following types of roofing:

Four-slope.
Valmova.
Gable.

The main purpose of slopes is to drain water from the roof. If they are not there, the liquid will stagnate, which can lead to leaks. In addition, the roof may be destroyed. With a slight roof slope (3-5 degrees), an internal drain is made.
You can create a garden on a flat roof or use it as a place to relax. Only in this case should it be sufficiently reliable. Therefore, reinforced floors are erected for it. In addition, stronger walls and foundations are needed. It is also important that a functional roof has high-quality waterproofing.
It is important to erect a flat roof on a frame house in regions where there is often strong wind. It will perfectly resist wind loads.
Making a roof for a frame house is quite a complex matter. Therefore, it is recommended to use ready-made truss structures. By doing this, you will not only install a reliable roof, but also speed up the process of building a house.
For frame houses it is better to use pitched roofs. They have several significant advantages over flat roofs. Thus, rainwater and snow do not linger on the gable roofs of a frame house, and this, in turn, reduces the risk of leakage.
The design of the attic roof of a frame house makes it possible to create a living space in the attic. The hip roof type is also suitable for arranging an attic.

Construction of the rafter system

The roof’s qualities such as strength, reliability and tightness depend on the rafter system. Building a roof on a frame house is not an easy task. In addition to the necessary knowledge, this requires skills.

In order to make a high-quality rafter system you need:

Calculate the dimensions of the building system elements.
Label their cross section.
Choose the best connections between each other.

This requires the skills of a specialist who installs roofs professionally.

If you decide to build a frame house with a hip roof, it is recommended to purchase ready-made roof trusses from specialists. This will save a lot of money, time and nerves.

They come in different types. This can be seen in the figure:

When constructing such a roof, valleys and associated elements of the truss structure are made. When constructing roofs, this is the most difficult stage. The construction of frame houses involves the use of roof trusses, which are made from wood of special strength that is not subject to burning and rotting. This is especially important for a wooden roof of a frame house.

Waterproofing materials.
Vapor barrier.
OSB sheets made of wood with the addition of pressed wood chips. The average thickness of the material is 13-16 millimeters.

Roof covering

Pressed wood chips, due to the fact that they are located in different directions, hold bolts, screws, nails and self-tapping screws quite firmly. This ensures density without any cracks or voids.

An important property of slab materials for constructing the roof of a frame house is that it is absolutely safe for humans. In addition, mold and fungi do not form on it, and insects do not breed.

Roof construction technology

The construction of the roof of a frame house should begin with the following work:

Marking the bottom trim.
Checking and calculating parallelism of structures.
Aligning the diagonals of the trim boards.

Technology:

It is recommended to strive to ensure that the result corresponds as closely as possible to the dimensions specified in the project. If construction is carried out in a region where strong winds are possible, then the lower roof frame and the upper part of the last floor can be connected using studs.
The installation of the ridge beam should begin with the installation of two supporting supports attached to the middle of the frame. They must be set strictly level, and a construction cord must be pulled between them. This will be used as a reference for the level of the three intermediate supports. As a result, the ridge beam should lie on five supporting logs strictly level.
The length of the ridge beam is more than 11 meters. And it is assembled from four boards, each of which has a cross-section of 38x100x150 millimeters. The total height of the ridge beam ends up being about 250 millimeters.
The end joints of the boards should be moved apart in different directions. Then the logs need to be fastened every two meters with metal plates. After which the positions of all rafters are noted. It is important to carry out this strictly according to the drawing.
The finished beam is installed on supports, which should be temporarily tied together using boards. To ensure that the maximum span of the rafters does not exceed 2.7 meters, they must rest on the intermediate wall on each side.
It is important that all rafters are cut according to the same template. In this case, you need to very carefully select the correct angle of the ends of the template and the landing site on the harness. To ensure that the roof surface is ultimately smooth, it is best to install all curved boards with the curve upward. After which they are pulled to the intermediate wall, where they are fastened together with nails. For safety reasons, it is recommended to use a special lower harness to work at heights.
OSB boards should be installed on the sheathing. Their thickness is 12.5-15 millimeters. They are placed in a checkerboard pattern.
Before installing soft tiles, an under-roof carpet can be used as a temporary roof. For example, the under-roofing membrane “Barrier OS GC” is used, one side of which is covered with bitumen mastic.
As a finishing roof, you can use Tegola SuperMosaic tiles. A team of professional workers can lay it on 150 square meters. meters of roof in about 4 working days.

Roof insulation

The insulation must be selected strictly according to the dimensions of the frame. This is a reliable guarantee that such a house will not be hot in the summer and warm in the winter.

Various materials can be used for insulation:

Styrofoam.
Polyurethane foam.
Mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass.
Ecowool.
Expanded clay.
Penoizol.

Expanded clay is used as insulation for flat roofs and interfloor ceilings.
When insulating the roof of a frame house, be sure to create ventilation gaps between the insulation layer and the coating. This will allow accumulated condensation to be removed naturally.
Thermal insulation should be installed closely to the frame elements. This is especially true for hard materials such as expanded polystyrene and polystyrene foam.
It is important to choose a roofing material that has characteristics suitable for your region. Pay attention also to its aesthetic appearance. After all, a frame house should fit well into the surrounding landscape.
If you decide to build the roof and the house itself yourself, then in order to enjoy it for many years, it is very important to strictly follow the technology of its construction.

Roof for a frame house: video