Laying aerated concrete blocks on the balcony. Balcony insulation

Insulation of the balcony area using foam blocks

When repairing a balcony, questions often arise regarding its insulation. What material is better to use? How is insulation work carried out? The variety of materials that are presented on the insulation market today makes it possible to choose the one that is most suitable for you. One such insulation material is foam blocks. Insulating a balcony with foam blocks is becoming increasingly popular, as it is an affordable and practical method. In this article we will analyze the properties and advantages of the material, as well as the technology for installing this insulation.

Material characteristics

Foam blocks - a durable and stable material

This insulation is made using baking powder, which is added to a special chemical solution. After hardening, a stable and fairly durable material is formed, which has excellent thermal insulation properties and is light in weight.

In order for the structure of the insulation to remain porous, a foaming agent is added to its composition.

On a note: Insulation of a loggia with foam blocks is most often carried out from the inside.

Advantages

Let's consider the main advantages of using this insulation:

retains more than 80% of heat in the room;
ease of installation;
has low weight;
can serve as an additional support for double-glazed windows;
the price is very affordable;
environmentally friendly material;
does not burn;
work using it is carried out in a short time.

Selection of tools and materials

Hammer drill - you can’t do without it

The materials needed are: foam blocks, fasteners, cement (it is better to use special glue), 8 mm reinforcement.

To carry out the work you will also need a minimum set of tools:

ruler - preferably 1 meter long;
strong thread (nylon);
solution container (bucket);
Master OK;
roulette;
workwear;
pencil;
bar-rule;
drill or hammer drill.

An important aspect is the choice of cementing material. Experts often advise that it is best to use a special glue that has centering abilities when dried. The advantage of this glue is that when used, the blocks fit closer to each other, which provides better thermal insulation.

Preparation before starting work

Before you start insulating the balcony with foam blocks, you need to make markings. The entire surface must first be leveled, especially if it has significant unevenness and differences. If the base is fairly level, it is enough to simply clean it of construction debris. The markup is done like this:

Using a plumb line and a level, we draw two vertical stripes, which are drawn on the adjacent lines.
The distance from the line to the surface of the base on which the installation will be carried out must be equal to the thickness of the block.
We connect the ends of the lines with horizontal stripes, which we draw on the floor and ceiling.

The blocks are made with perfectly smooth edges, so that with proper and high-quality masonry, a smooth surface is formed that does not require additional leveling.

Important detail: To ensure that the laying is done evenly, use a plumb line with a strong thread.

Let's consider how exactly with the help of threads you can control the verticality and horizontality of the laid surface:

We measure a distance of 5 cm from the side walls.
We carry out this procedure along the marking lines, both on the floor and on the ceiling.
Next, we retreat 2-3 mm from the found points into the room and screw in the screws so that the caps stick out a few millimeters above the surface.
A thread is attached to the caps so that two vertically stretched strings are formed. Make sure that the location of the tensioned thread strictly corresponds to the markings.
Screw in the screws until the end.
We tie a horizontal thread to the vertical threads so that it moves freely up and down and is slightly stretched.
With the help of such a simple device, the evenness of the surface is controlled.

It is also important to properly prepare the installation solution. When using an adhesive solution, the dry mixture must be dissolved in water according to the proportions and instructions on the product packaging. When using ordinary cement mortar, we maintain the proportions so that for one portion of cement there are three portions of sand. It is important to remember that foam blocks have the ability to absorb a certain amount of moisture, so it is not recommended to make the solution very thick.

Loggia insulation technology

Even beginners can install foam blocks

It should be remembered that work at low temperatures (below zero) is prohibited. The process of installing the blocks itself does not seem difficult; the main thing is to do everything slowly and correctly. Laying is carried out according to the principle of conventional brickwork (in a checkerboard pattern). Make sure that the laying is done along vertical and horizontal tensioned threads. You can adjust the blocks to the desired size using a hacksaw. The inner surface is finished with putty or sheathed with other material (lining, plastic).

Advice: You can insulate a balcony using foam blocks yourself. Having no experience in such work, it is worth resorting to the advice of specialists.

As you can see, this type of insulation is a completely acceptable solution for insulating a balcony or loggia in an apartment.

Video about the correct laying of foam blocks

Foam blocks are an artificial building material with a porous structure, made from cellular concrete, to which, unlike conventional concrete, a foaming agent is added. They, like aerated concrete blocks, are much lighter than bricks, fire resistant, have good thermal insulation properties, are relatively lightweight, easy to use and retain heat well.

Foam blocks are an artificial building material with a porous structure, made from cellular concrete, to which, unlike conventional concrete, a foaming agent is added. Laying foam blocks on a balcony or loggia is often used to insulate the interior space.

Laying foam blocks on a balcony or loggia is often used to insulate the interior space. If the glazing on a balcony or loggia is made of metal-plastic windows, a wall made of foam blocks will also serve as additional reinforcement for it.

Laying any wall begins with marking the surface, but before you start, you need to prepare everything you need. For work you will need the following materials and tools:

The foam blocks themselves.
Cement-sand mortar or glue-cement.
Reinforcement D = 8 mm.
Dowels 6x40.
Drill with whisk.
Bucket.
Trowel.
Nylon thread.
A comb to smooth out the solution.
Hammer.
Rule.
Level.
Plumb.
Hacksaw.
Pencil.
Ruler 100 cm.
Roulette.
Work gloves.

For better adhesion, the masonry is held together not with cement mortar, but with a special construction adhesive cement, thanks to which the distance between the rows is minimal and the thermal insulation of the structure is increased. If the facade of the loggia is planned to be additionally insulated with foam plastic, then you can use a cement-sand mortar. The standard thickness of one block is 20 cm. Foam blocks are easy to process and can be cut to width. If the purpose of the masonry is only insulation, a width of 10 cm is sufficient and one standard block can be easily cut into two equal parts.

Preparatory work

Work begins with marking the internal boundaries of the future wall. To do this, draw two vertical lines on the adjacent side walls and check their verticality with a plumb line. They are then connected by horizontal lines drawn on the ceiling and floor. Since foam blocks have an almost ideal geometric shape and a flat surface, it is advisable to mark and lay them as accurately and accurately as possible. In this case, the wall will not have to be plastered later, but only putty will be enough.

To ensure that the masonry is perfectly level, it is recommended to use a horizontally stretched nylon thread, under which the foam blocks will be laid.

First, two threads are pulled vertically along the edges of the wall. To do this, moving 4-5 cm away from both side walls, drive dowels into the floor and ceiling (the dowel heads should rise 2-3 mm above the surface).

Nylon threads are pulled vertically onto the dowel caps, moving them to the edges of the caps so that the threads are between the marking line and the caps. Then the dowels are driven in completely, thereby fixing the thread. Next, with a slight tension, a horizontal thread is tied to the vertical threads. Now, by moving it up or down along them, you can control the horizontality of the rows of foam blocks

After the preparatory work is completed, the masonry mortar is mixed. When using adhesive cement, it is simply mixed with water using a mixer in the proportion indicated on the package. If a cement-sand mortar is used to fasten foam blocks, it is prepared in a ratio of 1:4 and for better elasticity and adhesion, 10% adhesive cement is added to each batch. The laying mortar should be slightly thinner than the similar mortar that is prepared if brickwork is being done, since foam concrete blocks take water out of it very quickly and you simply may not have time to place them correctly on a thick mortar.

Laying technology

Laying foam concrete blocks on a balcony or loggia is quite simple, but it requires precision and accuracy and should not be done when the outside air temperature is below 0°C. It is almost no different from brick, it is done at random and performed sequentially, starting from the first bottom row. If the screed on the floor is level, then it is enough to use a tape measure to set the horizontal thread at the same distance from the floor on both sides, slightly higher than the height of the foam block.

Next, glue-cement or a solution of cement-sand mixture is applied to the adjacent wall and floor, which is leveled using a comb. The foam block is pressed tightly and the excess solution is immediately removed with a trowel. It is necessary to carefully ensure that the lower edges of the foam blocks are located along the marking line, and the upper edges are located along the nylon thread, retreating 1-2 mm from it.

In cases where the floor on the balcony is uneven, the first row needs to be leveled by laying it on a layer of cement-sand mortar with a width equal to the width of the foam block in level. To prevent the bottom row from sagging under the weight of the following rows, you need to wait time for it to harden. If the last foam block in a row does not fit, it is cut off using a hacksaw.

To lay the next rows, each time the nylon thread is raised a little higher (taking into account the solution) of the next row and make sure that the lower edges of the foam blocks are flush with the bottom row, and their upper edges are 1-2 mm away from the horizontal thread.

During the laying process, cement-sand mortar or adhesive cement can get between the vertical threads and the wall. If you do not remove it, the threads will stick out more and more and the wall being laid will turn out to be piled forward.

https://youtu.be/qqFKHde7AnY

In order for the wall made of foam blocks to stand stronger on the balcony, it must be tied using reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm to the adjacent side walls of the loggia. The reinforcement is cut into pieces 20-25 cm long. In the adjacent wall, holes are drilled every three, into which pieces of reinforcement are driven up to half the length. The second half is placed between two adjacent rows of foam blocks. Since the layer of adhesive cement is thin, a groove is cut out in the foam block that will be laid on top of the reinforcement. If a cement-sand mortar is used for installation, there is no need to cut out the grooves, since the mortar layer is about 1 cm.

Finally, the interior space of the loggia or balcony is lined with plastic panels or siding, after which it can be used as additional living space.

I warmly welcome everyone. Today I’ll tell you about how to lay out a parapet from foam blocks yourself. The parapet, in every sense, is a very necessary thing, and a number of important factors, such as glazing and further finishing of the balcony or loggia, largely depend on its strength and reliability.

The parapet we are talking about and the loggia as a whole are located in a new building, so to speak. The loggia itself is small, its width is only 2.80.

The work on laying the parapet took only a couple of hours. So there is nothing particularly complicated about this, but some nuances are still present. Therefore, read everything carefully so you don’t miss anything.

Required material for laying a parapet
Laying the parapet itself from foam blocks
Reinforcement of foam blocks
The last row

What you need to know about a parapet made of foam blocks

First and foremost, you should know the maximum permissible load on the balcony ceiling. For different houses it differs in permissible load. Here in this SNiP 2.01.07-85 everything is said about it. In the article "" based on this SNiP, acceptable standards are written for old and new houses. Check out this article.

FOAM BLOCKS are a modern, universal building material. Possessing a set of characteristics that are very useful in construction. Classification category: cellular concrete. Cellular concrete itself is a very porous material. The main volume of this building material is air. Small air bubbles up to 85% of volume.

So the best solution for balconies and loggias is a parapet made of foam blocks. Lightweight, warm, reliable. But of course, each specific case must be considered and taken into account. Perhaps you first need to restore the balcony slab, and then think about how to lay out the parapet from foam blocks yourself.

Required material for laying a parapet

For the laying of this parapet the following were purchased:

foam blocks size 600x250x75 - 24 pcs.
guide profile PN 75/40 for plasterboard – 1 piece
glue for aerated concrete blocks - 1 bag
and perforated metal mounting tape

Also, to secure the masonry to the side walls, you will need reinforcement or dowels. And to reinforce the blocks between each other, you can use masonry metal mesh. It comes in different varieties and is also available in convenient small rolls.

Laying the parapet itself from foam blocks

Actually the process itself. We determined where the new block parapet would be and made appropriate markings on the floor and adjacent walls using a level. Next, a guide profile was mounted on the floor using dowels and self-tapping screws. The essence of its installation is to set the most even direction of the first row of the new parapet. Plus, it’s convenient, and you can safely add a couple of points to the strength of the entire masonry.

So. Blocks were inserted into the profile along with glue, rubbing them tightly against each other. The last foam block was sawn to size and also inserted into a row along with glue. Due to their porosity, the blocks themselves are easily sawn with a hacksaw. If you have an old unnecessary hacksaw, then feel free to use it. There are, however, also special hacksaws for concrete, but they are also expensive for other volumes.

I would like to note this point again. The packaging with glue for foam blocks indicates that it is necessary to moisten the working surface of the block that comes into contact with the glue with water. Since foam blocks are very porous, they, like a sponge, absorb all the moisture from the glue, which is not good. My advice to you is not to ignore this recommendation!!!

To do this, you can use a wide brush or simply immerse the block in a wide container with one side and the other. Nothing bad will happen if you wet it completely. This will not affect the quality of the parapet masonry. Although someone will say that you don’t have to get it wet, but everything will be fine. Who knows, who knows...

The next and subsequent rows are placed in a running pattern. At the same time, they did not forget to rub the foam blocks well against each other. The second row of parapet was laid out. The vertical was checked using a level, marks made on the wall and a string stretched from wall to wall along the top edge of the foam block.

Reinforcement of foam blocks

Now you need to make reinforcement for rigidity and strength. A parapet made of foam blocks requires mandatory reinforcement. This reinforcement can be done in different ways, but it is necessary:

make a hollow inside the blocks and put reinforcement there
lay a so-called masonry metal mesh between the foam blocks, and apply the solution for the next row on it
or, as in our case, perforated metal mounting tape was used, laid and screwed with screws on top of the foam blocks

Plus, in the side walls for structural rigidity, reinforcement is fixed between the rows or you can use long anchors or something else. In our particular case, the parapet made of foam blocks does not bear any heavy load. Since the window frame stands on a metal parapet, we limited ourselves to fixing the punched tape into the foam blocks and walls. And also connected with the original metal parapet. It is smooth and strong, but it was possible not to tie them together.

Alternatively, you can screw the tape from the inside onto each row of blocks, thereby also tying them together. But since it was planned to decorate it with decorative brick tiles, this option was abandoned. The tiles were glued onto blocks and they would simply get in the way, so they removed them inside.

In our case, the loggia itself is small, only 2.80, there is no strong and excessive detonation when closing the doors, as for example on 6-meter loggias. There, of course, it is not worth connecting a parapet made of foam blocks with the original one, and also if the original parapet is wobbly and generally not reliable. This can have a detrimental effect on the newly laid block parapet.

The last row

Two more rows were laid out using the same pattern. The second and fourth rows were reinforced. The last row of foam blocks for the parapet was first sawed to size, everything was adjusted, tried on in place, and then glued. The size was adjusted taking into account 2 cm of foam. The resulting gap between the foam blocks of the new parapet and the window sill was foamed at the end.

The last foam block was foamed on three sides, since it was not possible to securely fix it with an adhesive solution due to the window sill. The foam holds very securely.

By the way, do you know how beautiful wooden window sills are made? I think no, you don't know. And I will tell you about this in the article. Study it so that you are not deceived when choosing window sills for yourself.

Well, in the end, it was necessary to rub all the seams between the blocks, but we decided to do this afterwards and with tile adhesive, while gluing the tiles themselves.

That's how it was. The foam block parapet on the loggia has been laid and all subsequent finishing has been completed.

Great video from Alexey Zemsky. The guys do everything clearly and competently. Everyone watch!!!

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We find the rest of the publications and read them carefully in the section.

If you want to somehow expand the living space in your apartment, then you can come up with a lot of options. If you have a balcony, then the next option, which will be described below, is exactly what you need, namely insulating the balcony with foam blocks.

General scheme for insulating a balcony:

1. Foam block masonry
2. Penoplex
3. Penofol

You don’t have to be a professional to insulate a balcony; you can easily handle this kind of work yourself. It is worth noting that in this case you can save a lot of money if you suddenly refuse to cooperate with the masters.

Insulating a balcony with foam blocks occurs in several stages, during which it is very important to follow a certain sequence.

The sequence of work is as follows:

Preparatory stage;
Balcony glazing;
Elimination of cracks and sealing;
Insulation with foam blocks;
Final finishing;

Preparatory work

At the preparatory stage, the balcony is prepared for further glazing. At this stage, the walls undergo thorough preparation, only after which glazing occurs. In the best case, the walls of the balcony will be made of thin slabs of concrete, and the parapet will be. One way or another, you will need to perform a number of additional works that even a person with no experience can do.

When you have prepared the walls properly, feel free to start glazing. At the moment, PVC windows are especially common.

The most correct option in this case is a double-glazed window. Why PVC? Today, this option is the most reliable, practical and has excellent heat saving performance.

Foam block laying technology

Balcony glazing

If you have never glazed a balcony before, then it is better to entrust this work to professionals. They will be able to choose the right design in all respects. It is worth noting that glazing the balcony does not mean that the connection with the outside space will be severed. Usually this leaves many gaps between the parapet, floor and walls. But you can get rid of them, and in several ways.

Eliminating cracks and sealing

There are several ways to get rid of gaps between the floor, walls and parapet. The most common is the use of polyurethane foam. This method is the most acceptable and is often used by many specialists. Why do many people choose polyurethane foam? The answer is very simple and obvious.

Using polyurethane foam is very convenient, it is easy to work with, and it has all the necessary properties.

Also, when glazing a balcony, you cannot do without the use of sealants. Polyurethane mastics can also provide good sealing.

But it is worth noting that when using sealant, you must first seal all seams with foam plastic or sealant; polyethylene foam is also suitable. The remainder is filled with polyurethane foam.

After this, you can proceed to insulating the balcony.

Balcony insulation with foam block

When selecting heat-insulating materials, it is necessary to choose those that have excellent technical characteristics. First of all, they must provide good thermal conductivity and not heavily load the structure.

The thickness of heat-insulating materials should not exceed 10 millimeters in order to save space. In this case, the most suitable option is a foam block.

The technology for laying foam blocks is very simple, so anyone can do this job. The simplest option for laying foam blocks is regular gluing. To achieve greater effect, many glue the joints with tape.

It is worth noting that the foam block, like any other heat-insulating material, only performs the function of preserving heat.

In order to constantly maintain the required temperature in the room, it is necessary to additionally install a heat source. However, certain regulations prohibit central heating on the balcony.

The final stage

At the final stage, the final finishing of the walls, floor and ceiling is carried out. This way you can hide insulation elements and wiring. Interior decoration can be done using different materials. Most experts prefer drywall. Plasterboard sheets have fairly good waterproofing and additionally insulate the walls. We have already written about finishing with plasterboard. This option is mainly used when the balcony is an extension of the room.

Another option for insulation is this, they provide warmth and comfort. This option has always remained and remains in demand.

One way or another, the finish is chosen in accordance with your own preferences and in fact there are a lot of options that you may like.

Pros and cons of insulation with foam blocks

Many people are now interested in the question, why foam blocks? This material has good characteristics, it does not bear any load on the structure and has a fairly reasonable cost. The foam block is quite durable, stable and has excellent thermal insulation properties, despite its low weight.

The advantages of this material include the following:

it retains more than 80% of heat;
easy installation method;
harmless and environmentally friendly material;
does not ignite;
installation does not require much time and effort.

Perhaps there are no more analogues to this material.

Expanding the topic of this article, it is necessary first of all to answer the question of what aerated concrete is. Well, first of all, it is a building material. Secondly, it belongs to the category of cellular concrete, as a result of which a porous structure saturated with gas bubbles is formed inside the material.

Accordingly, the quality of this material will largely depend on the uniform distribution of pores, their density and closedness.

Note!
In principle, this is a natural material that is made from quartz sand and cement with the addition of special gas-forming agents.
Most often, their role is played by aluminum powder.
Technologies for the production of aerated concrete are different, hence the recipe, which varies depending on the type of technological process. For example, manufacturers often add lime to the composition of aerated concrete, less often gypsum.

The production technology is quite simple.

All components are mixed in certain proportions.

Molding occurs, where the material begins to expand under the influence of a chemical reaction, during which gas formation occurs.

After preliminary drying, the aerated concrete is cut into blocks.

Then the finished product must be dried. There are two methods: autoclave and non-autoclave.

Attention!
When using the first method, the strength characteristics of the material increase, but at the same time its price becomes higher.
Please pay attention to one very important point that relates to the topic of our article. The porous structure of aerated concrete suggests that this material itself is a good heat insulator. True, there is one “BUT” here. By increasing the thermal insulation qualities of aerated concrete, we reduce its strength properties.

That is, the more pores inside the product, the weaker it is, but the higher the insulation performance. Therefore, the question of whether or not to insulate a house built from aerated concrete blocks will largely depend on the brand of the product. And if you purchase more porous blocks, then remember, you should not build multi-story buildings from them.

Now let's move on to the process itself and from the inside.
Is it necessary to insulate

We partially answered the question of whether it is necessary to insulate a house made of aerated concrete. But it is necessary to focus on another aspect. Aerated concrete blocks have high vapor permeability, that is, they “breathe” very well. This seems to be a big plus, but on the other hand it is also a minus.

Attention!
Walls made of aerated concrete blocks must be constructed in such a way that the vapor permeability of the material decreases from the outer surface of the wall to the inner one.
That is, the question of how to properly insulate the walls of a house made of aerated concrete is solved in exactly this way.
If everything turns out the other way around, then the gas inside the pores will begin to gain moisture, which will negatively affect the strength of the material, and, accordingly, the entire structure of the building as a whole.
To prevent the penetration of wet vapors into the body of the blocks, it is necessary to insulate the walls both outside and inside. Therefore, first of all, we will analyze several basic thermal insulation materials that are currently most often used in this process.

Let's figure out how to insulate aerated concrete walls.

Insulation materials

The modern building materials market is now ready to offer a huge range of thermal insulation materials that can be used to insulate aerated concrete.

Expanded polystyrene and polyurethane foam

Experts today give preference to such heat insulators as:

expanded polystyrene (regular and extruded);

polyurethane foam.

The first insulation has a different structure relative to the density of the material itself. For example, ordinary polystyrene foam (also known as polystyrene foam) is less durable, less dense, and, accordingly, less reliable. In addition, it does not have high thermal insulation rates.
Extruded polystyrene foam is a dense and durable insulation material with high thermal insulation performance.

Polyurethane foam is a unique material. Firstly, it is a building mixture that is applied to the walls under pressure. Secondly, when it hits the surface, it instantly bonds with it, creating a reliable foamed protective layer. Thirdly, such insulation will last for several decades.

But there is one very serious point here. Expanded polystyrene is a slab material that is not difficult to lay on the wall with your own hands. But you won’t be able to apply polyurethane foam to the surfaces to be treated yourself.

This requires not only experience and skills, but also special equipment. Therefore, this method of insulation is quite expensive, but effective.

Mineral wool

I would like to say a little about mineral wool. This is one of the most effective thermal insulation materials. But experts note that it is better not to use it with aerated concrete.

The thing is that mineral wool has the property of drawing in moist air vapor, which is a negative factor for aerated concrete blocks (we have already discussed this above).

So, you know which insulation for aerated concrete walls is better, now you can move on to the very process of arranging the thermal protection of the building.

And first of all, we will consider insulating aerated concrete with expanded polystyrene as the most budget option.

Insulation of walls made of aerated concrete blocks

As mentioned above, insulation of aerated concrete walls is carried out from the outside and from the inside. Why on both sides?

Remember!
Humidity and condensation largely depend on the dew point.
Until thermal insulation work is carried out, this point is located on the surface of the wall.
As soon as the insulation process is completed, the dew point will shift to the surface of the heat insulator.
A small mistake or incorrect work can lead to condensation forming on the insulation, and this is a guarantee that this material will soon begin to lose its qualities and properties.

As in any construction process, the insulation of aerated concrete houses is divided into several stages.

Stage No. 1

This is the internal insulation of aerated concrete walls.

I would like to note that many of us independently insulated a loggia or balcony, so many technical processes will be familiar, taking into account the specifics of aerated concrete.

In principle, aerated concrete blocks are a very flat and smooth surface, which makes no sense to process to perfection. But sometimes they also have defects. Therefore, cracks and chips are sealed with glue or cement mortar, and the bumps are removed with sandpaper or a sharp spatula.

After which the entire surface must be primed to create high wall adhesion. Please note that in some areas of the house the walls will be negatively affected by humidity.
So, such walls must be treated with waterproofing compounds. And when it all dries (usually this takes up to six hours), you can start plastering. In this case, there is no need to use a thick layer of plaster.

And the last thing is finishing. The easiest way is to paint the walls with special vapor-permeable paints, which are specially made for aerated concrete.
If plasterboard is used as finishing, then the wall must be additionally treated with a primer. By the way, drywall can be glued to such surfaces.

Stage No. 2

This is insulation of the facade of a house made of aerated concrete. Everything is much simpler here because there is no need to mess with dirty processes. Although it should be noted that manufacturers today have begun to offer plaster solutions that are intended specifically for aerated concrete blocks.

Such solutions have excellent vapor-permeable properties, and also never crack.

Attention!
There is one very important point.
If the walls are treated with vapor-permeable materials from the inside and vapor-proof materials from the outside, then the likelihood that there will be increased humidity inside the house is very high.
Therefore, be extremely careful when choosing a heat insulator.

The slab material is laid directly on the wall, for which you can use either a cement-based fastening mortar or special mushroom-shaped screws. In the case of self-tapping screws, experts do not recommend using metal products that will begin to rust after a while.

And the last thing is finishing. What to choose?

In principle, there are a lot of materials, it’s better to note what not to choose.

Vapor-proof paints;

Polymer-based solutions;

Solutions based on foamed plastics;

Foam glass.

Yes, and do not forget to insulate all elements of the house, otherwise there will be little benefit from the work done. We are talking about the insulation of plastic windows, entrance doors, basements, roofs, and so on.

Conclusion on the topic

As you can see, the instructions on how to properly insulate a house made of aerated concrete using expanded polystyrene (foam plastic) are not that complicated. Of course, knowing the nuances of this process will ensure simplicity and reliability, but in any case, anyone can cope with such work without problems.

In the video presented in this article you will find additional information on this topic.