13.10.2015 10:53

The romance of spending the night in the open air instantly disappears if the sleeping area on a camping trip is organized incorrectly. Dampness from the ground, the proximity of a swamp with the inevitable mosquitoes, bumps that can be felt on the back - all these little things will not allow you to get enough sleep, and therefore will make the participants of the hike irritable and dissatisfied. To avoid this, you need to organize a sleeping place, guided by simple rules, which will be discussed in this article.

Camp site

We are trying to locate the camp site:

away from wetlands, otherwise it will be damp and there will be a lot of mosquitoes. Ideally, the camp will be located on a hill, in a dry, ventilated but not drafty area;
near a source of water, not directly next to a river;
on flat terrain, without bumps. If you look around carefully, you will always find a piece of flat land. We will either level out small bumps or cover them with things;
away from isolated tall trees - they will “attract” lightning if a thunderstorm occurs and may fall in strong winds;
away from steep cliffs and deep ravines nearby;
away from villages and military units. If it is impossible to retreat a significant distance, set up a camp before reaching the village, and not immediately after passing it.

Sleeping place in the camp

Be that as it may, the sleeping place in the camp will always occupy the highest and most level part of it.

If there is a chance of rain, be sure to dig a drainage system around it, even if it is shallow.

If the place is uneven, we level it with earth or stones. Of course, if you decide to buy a comfortable air mattress, the problem of small bumps will lose its severity, but for a standard camping set (mat + sleeping bag) it remains relevant.

Setting up a sleeping place

Tent

The first thing you need to do to arrange a sleeping place is to put up a tent. Its size must be selected based on the number of people spending the night, and the material and shape - based on camping conditions (temperature, humidity, presence or absence of winds, the soil on which the tent will stand, and the method of attachment to the ground or other environmental elements).

Sleeping bag

At the bottom of the tent we place a tourist rug, foam or a tourist mattress, and on top of them we place sleeping bag or, if we have a one-day hike and it’s a hot summer, we put a thin blanket. In principle, even on a hot summer night it is more convenient to climb into a sleeping bag than to try to tuck a blanket under you when it becomes chilly in the morning. Nevertheless, for those who have not yet gone hiking, a blanket is more familiar, so if there are no strict contraindications (not cold, not too damp, there is enough space in the tent), you don’t have to insist on using a sleeping bag.

Rug

Many people wonder why cover the bottom of the tent with rugs or foam, if the bottom of modern tents is often initially insulated and must cope with providing thermal insulation without support. Practice shows that a tent with an insulated bottom gets damp right at the bottom - it’s easy to predict what awaits a person who spends the night in such a tent in one sleeping bag, without foam. Therefore, despite the improvement of the tent, the algorithm for organizing a sleeping place remains the same: first a tent, then a camping mat, and only on it - a sleeping bag. Moreover, if you are spending the night in winter, then it is better to use two rugs: one under the bottom of the tent, the second directly in the tent. This is the only way to keep your back healthy and not get cold muscles.

The foam or rug that we lined the bottom of the tent with is actually a universal thing. They can be used not only in a tent, but also for setting up seats in front of a fire and in the “kitchen” area of the camp; you can sunbathe on them on the river bank without fear of catching a cold in your back. You can make your own so-called “seats” from travel rugs - the rug is cut into large pieces, which are secured with belts or wide elastic bands on the lower back. When you need to sit down, the “seat” goes lower - you can sit down while a person is walking - the “seat” is securely held by straps on the lower back, without interfering with movements.

Hanging bunk, hammock

You can also use a hammock to organize a sleeping place, but for many reasons it is better to place it inside a tent at night. In this case, naturally, there are additional requirements for the height and shape of the tent, which must be taken into account before setting out on the route - or use the hammock only for daytime rest.

In general, when organizing a sleeping place, the main thing that should not be forgotten is thermal insulation - even seemingly warm earth, when left on it for a long time, can present unpleasant surprises in the form of cold muscles and rheumatic phenomena.

As you can see, if you have modern equipment, setting up a sleeping place in the camp is not at all difficult - you don’t have to get spruce branches, break twigs and branches, and then toss and turn all night, bumping into sharp twigs. An overnight stay on a hike can be comfortable, and the impressions of the hike can be bright and pleasant with optimal organization of the camp in general and sleeping places in particular.

Anyone who has ever gone camping overnight probably understands how to pitch a tent. For experienced travelers, the process of installing a house does not take much time. For a beginner, creating an overnight stay can cause serious difficulties.

Choosing the right place

Some novice travelers believe that a tent can be set up absolutely anywhere. Moreover, this misconception is often confirmed by sellers in travel stores. However, to make your vacation comfortable, you need to know where to put up your tent. When setting up an overnight stay, you need to consider the following:

The tent should not be pitched in a place where there are stones, sharp branches, tree roots or an anthill. Particularly vicious insects can greatly spoil the sleep of a careless tourist.
When camping in hilly areas or mountains, it is important that your head is positioned higher up the slope when sleeping, even if the slope on which the tent is pitched is slight. Otherwise, the next morning you will suffer from a migraine.
The possibility of sudden rain cannot be ruled out for sure. Therefore, it is important not to pitch the tent inside a hole or crater. Otherwise, at night the water will flow directly into the shelter.
When setting up a tent, you need to think in advance about the place where the fire will be lit. The tent catches fire very quickly and must be protected from fire. In addition, it is important that smoke does not penetrate into the tent.
It is not recommended to install a tent directly next to a body of water. This place is usually damper and colder.

Every novice traveler must understand where to pitch a tent, otherwise he will not be able to avoid a ruined trip.

Types of tents

Before you understand how to set up a tent for the night, it is important to find out what type it is. Most often in stores you can find hemispherical (frame), tunnel (half-barrel) and gable (house) tents. The last view is already outdated. The gable tent was very popular in the early days of backpacking. But lately people take it with them on hikes extremely rarely. The thing is that such a house takes a long time to assemble, has poor wind resistance and is quite bulky.

Half-barrel tents are also difficult to set up. But this type has a big plus - it has quite a lot of space. Undoubtedly, the best-selling tent is the hemispherical (frame) tent. It is quite easy to assemble and has high strength.

Setting up the tent on site

Many novice travelers are interested in how to pitch a tent outdoors. The installation process for the most popular hemispherical (frame) tent is as follows:

First you need to lay out the inner tent on the ground.
Then you will need to install the arcs. First you need to collect them. Namely, insert frame elements into each other. This type of tent must have at least two arcs. Then everything depends on the design of the tent. The poles can be inserted into holes in the corners of the inner tent, and then secured using hooks, or threaded through fabric grooves and attached to the bottom of the tent. Then the arcs should be fixed with a rope to the tent itself. Due to this, the entire structure will become more rigid.
After the steps have already been taken, it is necessary to pull the awning. It is important to compare the inlet on the awning with the outlet, which is on the inner tent. The awning can be attached in two ways (to the arches or to the ground with pegs).

What should not be done by those who like to spend the night in the forest?

Some people who already know how to pitch a tent make the following mistakes:

Use polyethylene so as not to stain the bottom of the tent. However, with slanting rain, such a nuisance will happen even faster. If you decide to use polyethylene, then its corners need to be folded and attached to the bottom of the tent.
There is no need to pitch your tent on low beaches of mountain rivers. Due to rain, the water level in the river can suddenly rise and flood the shelter overnight.
You need to be especially careful if the tent is placed in the mountains. It should be located away from avalanche areas. For example, on slopes where there is a thick layer of snow. It is strictly forbidden to stop overnight on snowy cornices.

Every lover of long trips should understand how to set up a tent correctly. As a rule, only a couple of people in a group of travelers know about this. Some people forget that hiking is not only relaxation, but also a great responsibility.

How to choose the right camping tent? Every tourist, both beginner and experienced, was concerned with the issue of choosing a tent for hiking, trekking or climbing. In this article you will find almost all the selection criteria that you need to pay attention to when purchasing. After reading this article you will be armed with a wealth of knowledge about camping tents. We hope that even experts will find it interesting!

A passion for hiking is not only a desire to see and learn new beautiful places, to be in nature, outside of cities, but also a certain challenge to the usual way of life. The traveler somehow goes beyond the usual boundaries of comfort. Cooking in the forest or mountains, the vagaries of the weather, the physical difficulties of overcoming obstacles force us to re-evaluate the meaning of the very concept of “comfort” in a completely different way. Comfortable hiking shoes, a good fit, dry, warm and, of course, a reliable tent - these are the main “pillars” on which the feeling of comfort on a hike rests. Today we will talk about tents.

Of course, there are a great many types of tents - commercial, military, and even entire pavilion tents of enormous size. Here we will look at tourist tents. By tourist tent we mean a mobile shelter that can protect the traveler from the vicissitudes of the weather - rain, wind, insects and small animals, cold (within certain limits, of course). A tourist tent should have a reliable design, be simple and easy to install and fold, take up little space when folded, and provide normal conditions for rest and sleep when unfolded.

Even twenty years ago and earlier, in the post-Soviet tourism space there was not much choice - most used the same type of serial structures, bulky and heavy, or they had to make tents themselves. There were few foreign models and products from a few local manufacturers, and they were inaccessible to many. Gradually, the market was filled with a large number of different models - for every taste and budget. Understanding this diversity can be difficult not only for a novice tourist, but also for more experienced travelers.

WHERE TO BUY A TREKTING TENT?

If this is your first tent purchase and you are not an experienced market expert, it is best to make your first purchase from a large outfitter. Here you can choose from a variety of models, see, touch and even install/fold the model you like. As a rule, such stores employ real experts in the tourism industry, so they sell the most suitable, functional models, and do not order everything in a row, like large online stores for “everything in the world.” Here they can really help you with advice when choosing. Sellers usually use the equipment themselves and are not theoretical consultants. The main thing is not to fall completely under the influence of the seller.

HOW TO BUY FROM THE EQUIPMENT CENTER?

Remember, there are very few real “level 1000 pumped up sales masters” who can delve into your specific request and sell what you need. In most cases, even an experienced tourist mountaineer, who is also a sales consultant, will sell you equipment “for himself.” This can lead to you falling under the “magical influence of a specialist” and purchasing something that you don’t quite need. To avoid this, go shopping as prepared as possible, draw up criteria for your choice, even write them down. Save photos of models you like on the Internet on your smartphone. You know that in photos on the Internet everything may not look the same as in reality. When forming your desires before purchasing, avoid a large number of advisers, especially those with poor qualifications - you risk getting completely confused. If possible, choose a couple of really smart people whose opinions you trust, and describe your task to them as constructively as possible. They will ask you the right questions themselves. After that, go to the store. The chosen tent must be unfolded, ask permission to climb inside - lie on the mat, sit. If you are going to become an avid tourist, remember - this is your future home in a variety of places and conditions and you must be confident in it.

Now let's look at what you definitely need to know about tents.

Basic criteria for choosing a tent:

TENT DESIGNS

Nowadays, most tents, even budget series, are made from modern, completely reliable materials. Now almost ALL tents are completely waterproof and have seams taped with special heat-shrink tape. In many cases, the material has ceased to be the No. 1 criterion in selection. The only exceptions may be the cheapest models, the so-called “supermarket tents” - they should be avoided. The first thing you will need to decide on when choosing is what kind of tent design do you need?

Most modern tents are stretched on a frame. So, by default, your tent will have a frame. But there are tents without their own frame. They are stretched using trekking poles (it would be good if you had them) or improvised means. In what cases should you pay attention to such designs?

FRAMELESS TENTS

You are a minimalist lightweight traveler and you save every gram; you are ready to sacrifice the convenience of an overnight stay in favor of weight and compactness. You will rarely need a tent on a hike or may not need it at all; you take it “just in case.” Perhaps just an awning or a bivouac bag will suit you. The type of tourist activity inexorably requires you to have a light and as compact backpack as possible - ski tours, complex via ferats, adventure races, etc.

When choosing such a design, it is worth keeping in mind the pros and cons.

Pros of a frameless tent:

Minimum packaging volume and weight.
Relatively low cost (not always, there are very expensive models).
Opportunity to use your equipment (trekking poles, skis) more fully.

Disadvantages of a frameless tent:

Often less easy to install compared to self-supporting structures.
Usually poorer habitability and wind resistance.
Nowadays there are frame tents on the market weighing less than a kilogram. They are expensive, but maybe it's worth taking a closer look at them?

Frame tent structures

Most modern frame structures on the market have a self-supporting frame. In other words, these are free-standing tents; in calm weather they practically do not need guylines. However, in many models it is still necessary to stretch their individual parts to give the correct shape and maximum internal volume. The use of a free-standing tent is possible, including on camping decks, asphalt and concrete sites, soft sand - where it is difficult to fix the guy ropes. Also, tensile structures are very common, the installation of which is possible only with the help of guy wires.

Frame material

FIBERGLASS, FIBERGLASS

Suitable for tents in the lower price range. The worst option is black, matte, opaque fiberglass. If possible, choose a frame made of reinforced plastic - it is more reliable and durable. A plastic frame is suitable where weight, extreme wind resistance and use at sub-zero temperatures are not critical. If you do not want to spend a lot of money on equipment, go hiking not very often and in the warm season - this is your possible choice.

ALUMINUM

The most balanced material for the frame. It should be taken into account that simpler grades of aluminum are used on budget structures than on more expensive ones. They are somewhat heavier and have less strength and elasticity. On more expensive models, more functional grades of aluminum and aluminum alloys are used. Top models can be equipped with frames made of scandium and even CARBON. Also, some well-known and expensive manufacturers order frames from specialized developers for maximum reliability and to give their products a touch of “eliteness”. The most famous manufacturer of tent frames is DAC. You should know that this famous creator of the most durable frames has both simpler and more expensive lines. Check this point with the seller.

INFLATABLE FRAME

So far, such tents are still so rare that there is no point in writing about them.

EXTERNAL OR INNER FRAME?

INNER FRAME

The most common solution. The frame is located between the inner and outer tents. The inner tent is hung on it, and the awning is simply pulled over the top and secured.

Pros of a tent with an internal frame:

The length of the frame is shorter than with an external arrangement, which means weight and size are saved.
Installation is possible only with an inner tent, which is popular in good weather.
If you have a special kit (usually purchased separately, but sometimes included in the kit), you can install only the outer tent without the inner one with a separate bottom, which at other times can be used as a FOOTPRINT (protective bedding).
The outer surface of the tent is as smooth and streamlined as possible; snow and debris accumulate on it less.

Minuses tents with inner frame :

Perhaps slightly worse wind resistance.
If the frame breaks, it can tear the awning material.
When installed in the rain, the inner tent has time to get wet.
Installation in the wind is less convenient.

HUB FRAME

A recent invention. Mainly used in models of the ultralight segment. The main feature is the presence of “hubs” - frame connections that allow you to optimize its overall length, volume, and therefore weight. Typically used as an internal frame. The main advantages are low weight with a large internal volume of the tent. The main disadvantages are poorer wind resistance and higher cost. Often the hub frame is an all-in-one structure - all frame elements are connected to each other by an elastic cable, forming, as it were, one complex arc. This frame is easy to fold even for a beginner.

EXTERNAL FRAME

Located on top of the entire structure, the arcs are visible. The inner tent is attached to the outer one. There are two main options for attaching the awning to the external frame. Using PAT POCKETS. These are peculiar sleeves made of mesh or fabric into which the frame is threaded, after which it is fixed with tips in special eyelets. On the one hand, this is the most wind-resistant design that distributes the load as evenly as possible, but on the other hand, it is the most labor-intensive to install. Sometimes the final installation (stretching) of the tips into the eyelets involves such effort that some girls or teenagers are not able to complete it! So practice before you buy. The second option is using hooks or carabiners. Reminiscent of attaching the inner tent to the frame in models with an inner frame. Such a system has unsurpassed convenience and speed of installation! If you took the trouble to attach the inner tent to the outer one in advance (or you have a single-layer tent), installation will take a matter of seconds. This can be especially appreciated in stormy conditions. At the same time, carbines do not provide phenomenal load distribution of the first option. Now it's up to you to choose.

Pros of a tent with an external frame:

Possibility to install an inner tent together with an outer one.
Possibility to install an outer tent without an inner one and without a bottom, like an awning.
Good wind resistance, easier to place in the wind.
If the frame breaks, the awning usually remains intact, making repairs easier.
When pitched in the rain, the inner tent remains dry.

Minuses tents with external frame:

You cannot set up an inner tent without an awning!
The frame is relatively longer and heavier than in the first option.
Retains snow and debris (leaves, branches, serves as a basis for weaving webs, etc.)
Considerable installation effort may occur.
Typically, such structures are equipped with floor belts connecting the attachment points of the ends of the arches. Straps can get tangled and make installation difficult.
Installation from scratch, without an attached inner layer, is quite labor-intensive.

CONCLUSION: For most tourists, the option with an internal frame is preferable, as confirmed by sales volumes. Tents with an external frame are more suitable for professional use - in the mountains, cold climates, and in bad weather conditions.

SINGLE OR DOUBLE LAYER TENT?

Most tents sold have a two-layer design. Typically, this is an inner tent equipped with a bathtub-shaped (extending to the walls) waterproof bottom and a lightweight, breathable top, part of which is made of lightweight mesh. In tents for use in warm and hot seasons, almost the entire top can be made of mesh; in models for colder conditions, the amount of mesh is much less and it can be closed with a denser fabric using a zipper. An outer tent is usually a protective awning made of waterproof, durable fabric with attached guy ropes. It is usually connected to the inner tent through the frame using special fastex or other fixing devices equipped with a tension mechanism. It allows you to stretch the awning as tightly as possible, which is necessary during rain or wind. A double-layer tent forms an air gap between the inner and outer tent. This makes staying in it more comfortable in both hot and cold weather and largely prevents condensation in the living area, which is very important for keeping your belongings dry during the hike.

Single layer tent this is either a very cheap and extremely simplified “supermarket” option, or a specialized design for certain tasks. Almost all single-layer tents, one way or another, have problems with condensation, even when using special breathable fabrics, so their use in most cases is limited to winter, mountains and other places with low air temperatures where condensation is not so critical. Also, single-layer tents are cooler in the cold, and hotter in the sun than their double-layer counterparts. In return, they offer the ultimate in low weight and volume, ease of installation and folding in extreme weather conditions, and minimal installed dimensions, which allows them to be placed in the smallest flat area. As you already understand, this is not an option for everyone! It is also worth considering the often very high cost of such structures.

TENT SHAPE

Dome tent

Dome structures are the most common. For decades, such tents have faithfully served tourists, climbers, hunters and fishermen. The simplest dome design is formed by a frame of two posts crossed in the middle. This tent is easy to set up and lightweight. At the same time, it cannot boast of a spacious lobby (one or two). Often, to increase functionality (internal volume, wind resistance), one or more frame arcs or special frame struts are added to the structure. The more intersections the frame elements make with each other, the stronger the tent.

Half barrel tent

The second most common type of tent today. In popularity it lags behind the dome by orders of magnitude. The appearance of this tent is clear from the name. The main disadvantage is that the tent is not free-standing (self-supporting); guy ropes are required. Installation is usually more difficult, especially for beginners. The main advantage is excellent wind resistance (if installed correctly), good internal volume, and low weight. This type of tent is rarely chosen by beginners; mostly, its owners are experienced tourists who are able to take advantage of the advantages and compensate for the disadvantages.

tent tent

A classic that looks like an Indian tipi, wigwam or yurt. Typically mounted on the center pillar, although there are other options. This option is very common in North America, but is in little demand here. Mainly in the post-Soviet space, a similar design is used for winter trips, usually ski trips, since it is convenient for using ski equipment as a frame and installing a stove. Often there are options without gender.

"HOUSE"

Once the only option for Soviet tourists. The construction is usually single-layer. Nowadays it is not very widespread due to its low habitability, dependence on guy wires and installation difficulties. A rare guest on store shelves. In a new interpretation - a compact frameless tent mounted on trekking poles, a frequent choice of “survivalists”, “bushcrafters” and beginner light walkers.

NUMBER OF INPUT. VESTIBULES (VESTBULGS), PLACEMENT OF THINGS IN A TENT

Many people are accustomed to the fact that a tent should have one entrance (exit). It's nice when the tent entrance allows for convenient use in the rain. Practice shows that two inputs are much better than one. Therefore, if possible, choose a model with two inputs. If you do not expect to use the tent often in narrow areas, it is better to choose a model with side entrances (provided that you have a 2-3 person tent; if the tent is larger, then the entrance/exit at the head/foot is a good option). What is the best way to organize storage space? Of course, it is better to keep small things and some clothes at hand in the tent itself, for which you will find pockets useful in it and the “mezzanine” - a shelf under the ceiling - is especially pleasant. It is convenient to keep backpacks, shoes and bulky/dirty things in vestibules. In theory, the more there are (that is, two are better than one) and the larger their volume (for example, it’s good when a separate frame arc is “responsible” for the vestibule), the better. In practice, you are constantly balancing between the useful volume of the tent and vestibules and its weight/size/cost. Think about what will be important to you and base your choice on that. Where do you want to shift the emphasis - towards comfort or light weight?

Tent bottom material

Most tents have fabric bottoms. The bottom is constantly under heavy load - you lie on it, press, press with your elbows and knees. However, your tent is rarely placed on an ideal surface. Therefore, it is good that the bottom is made of high-strength fabric. The modern trend of weight reduction forces many manufacturers to strive more for lightening the product, rather than for its strength and service life. In some ways, it is beneficial for the manufacturer that your tent wears out faster and is replaced with a new one. If you are also looking for weight and buy an ultra-light tent, be especially careful when using it. I also advise you to use FOOTPRINT (bedding) on suspicious surfaces. The bottom material must not only be very durable, but also have increased water resistance. In the classical European measurement system, the minimum water resistance value for the bottom of a tent should be considered to be 5000 mm. But remember that pressing with your elbow will create more pressure and the tent may leak. An indicator of 10,000 mm of water column is considered absolutely reliable. At the same time, for an awning it is enough to have characteristics of 3-5000 mm. American manufacturers report significantly more modest figures. But, firstly, they are guaranteed to last a lifetime for the fabric, and secondly, the system for assessing water resistance overseas is somewhat different from the European one.

On cheap tents, the floor can be made of structured polyethylene, which looks like an oilcloth bag from a supermarket. There is nothing terrible about such a field if used infrequently. It is heavier and somewhat more cumbersome, but can be easily repaired with mounting tape. This floor is suitable for not too demanding and economical tourists. I happened to live in a tent with a polyethylene floor and a fiberglass frame on Elbrus, at an altitude of 4200 meters, for several nights in fairly fresh weather, and the tent coped with this test perfectly. True, polyethylene can easily freeze to ice.

Tent material processing

In nature, especially in the mountains, the tent is exposed not only to mechanical stress, but also to strong solar radiation. To resist ultraviolet radiation and provide better moisture protection, most tents have additional fabric treatment. Silicone coating resists ultraviolet radiation and moisture best. For internal impregnation and bottom impregnation, a polyurethane coating of fabric is often used. Different types of coating have their own advantages and disadvantages, which we will not dwell on in this review article. Fire-retardant impregnation of the awning and inner tent would also be useful. This will help avoid damage from sparks or careless handling of the fire inside.

OPERATING FEATURES

COOKING IN A TENT

Be very careful and careful! Avoid using burners inside the tent unless absolutely necessary. If this cannot be avoided, cook in a vestibule, making sure that there is plenty of air flow and that no part of the burner or cookware comes into contact with the tent material. Avoid cooking in a tent using integrated systems such as a jetboil, reactor and similar - they are extremely dangerous. There are many known accidents associated with this.

PACKING A TENT ON A CAMPING

You don't always have to put your tent in its cover. You can separate the tent parts and carry them separately from each other. The wet tarpaulin can be placed on the backpack while moving to dry. When packing a tent without a cover in a backpack, make sure that it will not be damaged by sharp objects.

TENT CARE

Modern tents are made of synthetic materials, they are very unpretentious and require a minimum of maintenance. At the same time, they can serve you for a very long time. Still, the tent should at least be dried after a hike. When folding, avoid stereotypical (habitual) bends - in the same places. Repair the tent as quickly as possible after damage occurs, using a suitable repair kit.

SEASONALITY OF USE

A very conditional characteristic. Extreme tents are often labeled as “all-season”, but their use in summer is often uncomfortable. At the same time, two- or three-season tents are often successfully used in winter and in the mountains. However, there are some things to understand. Thus, one of the main characteristics that determines the possibilities of use is wind resistance. A tent with a weak frame and large windage is hardly worth taking for difficult weather; it will not be able to withstand increased wind and snow loads. If you have a warm sleeping bag, you can use a tent with more mesh inside in cold conditions, but it is important that it is strong enough and that the flysheet reaches as low to the ground as possible. Contrary to the beliefs of some tourists, a snow skirt is not at all a mandatory attribute of “winter” tents, although it can often be of great use in snow and strong winds. However, many very well-known manufacturers sell “winter” tents without snow skirts. Seasoned campers know that a good windbreak can often be a more important factor than a skirt or a very strong tent.

You must understand that modern super-technological tents in the “ultralight” segment may not withstand heavy loads and take this into account in your travels. You also need to know that even the most expensive, heavy and durable super extreme tent can be torn and simply destroyed by hurricane winds.

Touring wisdom, knowledge and developed intuition are often more important than the latest and most expensive equipment. And while waiting for the arrival of all these important qualities and gaining the necessary experience, try to use the equipment strictly for its intended purpose, take into account the positioning of the manufacturer and always use common sense.

Good luck with your choice and pleasant travels!

Setting up a tent

Setting up a tent – what could be easier, it would seem? Even an inexperienced tourist, using the instructions, will cope with this task. But there are several subtleties and nuances that novice tourists overlook, but these techniques can extend the life of your tent and, most importantly, provide you with a restful and comfortable sleep.

Before setting up a tent, you need to choose a suitable place for this - the quality of your sleep, and sometimes your safety, will depend on the choice of site for installation. When choosing a location, you need to remember a few rules:

Do not place your tent under overhanging rocks or slopes where rockfalls are possible. In winter, it is also necessary to take into account the possibility of avalanches.
Don't pitch your tent too close to rivers. This is especially true for mountain rivers. Firstly, the overnight stay will be cold due to the humidity coming from the water, and secondly, rain falling upstream can turn even a small river into a roaring torrent or even a mudslide that will simply wash away your camp.
It is dangerous to pitch a tent under old tall trees - in a thunderstorm they attract lightning, and in strong winds branches can fall from them.
You should not set up a tent on roads, even if they look abandoned. The same applies to animal trails - an animal that sees your tent on its trail may come to inquire about such an innovation.
The tent must be installed so that the entrance and ventilation holes are located in the direction of the wind - then there will be more air in your tent.
Do not place your tent in low spots, depressions or holes, as water may accumulate in them when it rains.
In addition, you should not pitch a tent in close proximity to a fire - sparks can easily burn through a synthetic tent.
We do not recommend placing a tent under power lines, near landfills (even abandoned ones) and in close proximity to emergency buildings.
It is not advisable to set up a tent in a swampy area, because the rain can flood your camp and cut off the exit routes from the swamp.
And of course, if possible, one should not forget about convenience: the place for the tent should be level, cleared, without a strong slope, with mandatory access to water and fuel.
In hot climates, shade over the tent is also key. This affects not only the comfort of the tourist inside it, but also the service life of the tent itself, which is exposed to the harmful effects of ultraviolet rays and heat.
Your campsite should remain as clean as it was before you arrived.

Having taken these rules into account and choosing a suitable place to set up the tent, you need to set up the tent correctly. If you are setting up a tent for the first time, it is better to read the instructions in advance, and even better, try to assemble the tent right at home in advance. Then during the hike you won’t have to waste time deciding where the racks are inserted. When the tent is already standing, it is necessary to stretch the wind guys, which are so often neglected by novice tourists.

They not only provide stability to your tent in strong winds, but also provide the necessary tension for the awning, which increases its waterproofness. Drops of water roll off from well-stretched fabric much better than from sagging fabric. Sometimes, during prolonged rain, the fabric stretches from getting wet, then it is necessary to rearrange the guys, pulling them tighter.

It should also be added that the tent can be pitched even if the pegs are lost - they can be replaced with stones on guys or made on site from wood. And if you break the poles, you can use a special sleeve or tire for emergency repair of the arc segment, which in most cases is included by manufacturers in the standard package of tents.

Particularly picky hikers can also lay an additional floor under the tent in the shape and size of the tent; it will not only protect the bottom of the tent from damage or dirt and provide your sleeping area with additional thermal insulation, but will also create a clean surface for folding the tent in the morning. An additional floor is sometimes included with tents; often it can be purchased separately. It is made of thicker fabric than the bottom of the tent and provides better insulation against moisture. In dry weather, it can be sacrificed in favor of reducing the weight of the backpack.

Shoes are usually left in the vestibule of the tent, but it is worth taking into account that this rule does not apply in places where poisonous insects or reptiles can crawl into the shoes. And before folding the tent, it is advisable to shake out all the garbage from it.

How to deal with condensation in a tent

Condensation is one of the most common tent problems. Condensation is nothing more than moisture that is contained in your breath and, when you are in a confined space of a tent, settles on the inside of the awning. Due to condensation, you can find your tent damp even in sunny weather.

How to fight it?

How to dry a tent

Drying a tent is a long and rather difficult task. Of course, if you were caught in a brief rain and then the sun immediately came out, then there is nothing to think about - just wait, and the sun will dry the tent. The situation is more complicated if your tent is wet and begins to leak water, and the rain does not stop. In this case, you can try drying the tent from the inside. The most common drying method is gas torch drying.

This method is quite dangerous, because tents made of synthetic materials burn out in a matter of minutes, and combustion products can cause the inhabitants of the tent to simply die. But if, nevertheless, the desire to sleep in a dry tent is overcome by the instinct of self-preservation, then use this method with extreme caution, having first opened all the ventilation and entrances of the tent.

The second method of drying a tent from the inside is much less common. To do this, you need to heat stones in a pot and, placing the pot on a piece of wood, bring the resulting “stove” into the tent. The heat from the hot stones will quickly dry the wet fabric. But you should also be careful with this method, because the pot can burn the bottom of the tent. In addition, some types of stones can emit toxic fumes when heated.

How to transport a tent

Most tourists leave the tent lying in its original packaging, but I prefer to pack the tent in a compression case and then put it in a hermetic bag - in this form the tent will take up minimal space and will not wet the contents of the backpack if it gets wet. I stuff the tent into the compression case chaotically, without folding it. It would seem that a tent that is neatly and carefully folded should last longer, but in this case, neatness can do a disservice, because the tent is folded along the same fold lines. Accordingly, both the zipper on the tent and the awning itself bend in the same places, which quickly leads to their wear. When laying the tent chaotically, the zipper and awning bend in a new place each time.

How to store a tent at home

First of all, after a hike, you need to hang your tent to dry, and balconies are ideal for this. Even if it seems to you that the tent did not get wet during your hike, it is still better to dry it, because condensation and dew leave the surface of the tent wet. If a wet tent is not dried in time, it will, at best, acquire an unpleasant odor, and at worst, it will become moldy and become unusable.
If somehow you were unable to protect the tent from mold, then the fabric damaged by the fungus can be treated with specialized products in accordance with the instructions.

Particularly pedantic tourists can also set up a tent at home after a hike and vacuum it from the inside, and then your tent will maintain a presentable appearance longer.

It is better to store the tent at home without packaging to minimize pressure on the zipper and awning. To increase the shelf life of the tent, it is advisable not to wash it at all. If necessary, dirt can be wiped with a damp cloth.
If you have to deal with a tent whose material has already worn out, you can use specialized products to restore the fabric’s former water-repellent properties.

And finally, a little life hack: if you stain your tent with resin, wait until the resin dries and apply a piece of ice to the stained area on the inside of the fabric - the cooled resin becomes brittle and comes off easier.

class="subtitle">

Everyone knows that setting up a tent is a piece of cake. Many people think that the main thing is to buy it, and then everything will be according to the instructions. Which is inside the tent cover. And these people put up tents according to the instructions, and sleep in them...

And then in the morning their faces were swollen, their heads hurt, and even inside the tent a puddle of water had leaked from somewhere. If experimenting on yourself doesn’t make you happy, there is a way out: read our article!

Find a place to pitch your tent.

A tent can’t be set up everywhere (even if the salespeople in a tent store think it’s everywhere). Therefore, here are some recommendations for choosing a place for a tent.

1. Choose a level place for the tent.

No protrusions. For some reason, people get worse sleep on roots, hillocks and hummocks than on flat ground. That's why:

If there are stones on the tent site, remove them.
There are sharp twigs lying around - remove them. And they won’t let you sleep, and they will scratch and pierce the bottom of the tent.
The roots are protruding, and there is nowhere else to become a tent - put some soft things under the bottom of the tent. Or just throw branches with leaves on the ground, it will be more convenient.
Oh, and pay attention that there are no anthills under the tent. The damned insects sleep treacherously in the evening, but in the morning they gnaw at the bottom of the tent and wake you up with joyful bites before the official rise.

2. Lie with your feet down and your head up the slope (head higher than your feet).

In the mountains and in general in any hilly area there is a slight slope everywhere. Even if the slope is tiny, you will still know about it in the morning. At best, you will wake up with a swollen face, and not at best, with a sore head (from blood flow).

3. Do not camp in depressions.

The bottom of a funnel or hole is not your option. Sudden rain can disrupt all your plans: everything will flow towards you.

4. Dig around the already pitched tent with ditches.

If there is a steep slope next to the parking lot, water will flow from it in bad weather and into your tent. And with grooves, you have every chance of waking up dry.

5. Pay attention to how far the tent is from the fire.

The distance between the fire and the tent should be at least three meters. Legends say that tents burn surprisingly quickly. But even if this is not the case, a spark can burn a hole in the tent, where water can then flow in - and hello, wet sleeping bags.

6. Choose places away from water. And not on the trail at all.

Otherwise, in the dark, participants in your camp or some late tourists will trip over your tent a couple of times, which can damage the tent or weaken the tension of the awning. As a result, you will have to get out of your warm sleeping bag and, cursing, hammer in the pegs again.

7. Place your feet towards the exit.

Otherwise, if at night someone goes “until the wind” and then comes back, he will definitely step on other people’s heads. And when someone walks on your head in a dream, it is slightly unpleasant.

How to set up a tent?

Today, there are mainly three types of tents on sale: gable ( house), hemispherical ( frame) and tunnel ( half barrel).

1. Gable type tents (house).

Nowadays they are somewhat outdated, and you can see them in stores less and less often. Installing them will take you many times longer than other tents. Still falling in the wind. Add to this the solid weight of the product - and you get the perfect tent, designed to be left at home.

However, if you suddenly have a tent-house, we will briefly tell you how to install it.

To install a gable tent, install the roof - and then stretch the bottom. The roof is placed on two vertical posts, they stand inside or outside the tent. After you have installed the vertical base, carefully stretch the bottom of the tent and the awning. Done, you're amazing.

2. Hemispherical frame tent.

It is easy to assemble and disassemble, stands up well in the wind and is quite durable. Such a tent is installed using arcs - of which there are at least two.

The simplest tent of this kind is set up like this:

Lay out the inner tent (the one with mesh and a black bottom) on the ground. After this, assemble the arcs by inserting their parts into one another - and place them crosswise over the inside of the tent.
Next you need to attach the poles to the inner tent. Most likely, with hooks - although other options are possible. In any case, you will guess - and after all the machinations done, a ready-made white inner tent will stand in front of you.
Now we put the awning over the tent, not forgetting to match the exit located on the awning with the exit located on the inner tent.
Attach the awning to the ground with pegs. You need to stretch the vestibule and the awning itself. If you don’t stretch the awning, it will stick to the inner tent, and condensation from breathing will flow inside its walls.
Stretch storm ropes (bright ropes along the edges of the awning) only if the tent is in an open area and you are afraid of strong winds. If you are camping in the forest, they are not needed at all. In addition, people passing by the tent will definitely trip over them and “thank” you.

3. Half-barrel tents.

They are more difficult to install, but there is more free space, and the vestibules from the half-barrels can usually fit several more people (so in bad weather you can gather there as a whole group).

The half-barrel frame consists of several parallel semicircular arcs. First, stretch the awning on the arches. Then fasten the inner tent from the inside. After this, stretch the tent with pegs - the shelter is ready.

In dry weather, the inner tent does not need to be unfastened from the awning: time for installing the half-barrel is saved. But in the rain, it’s better to unzip the tents, shake them out separately, and dry them immediately if the opportunity arises. This is because wet tents weigh more than dry ones. The mountain is much bigger.

4. "Hybrid tents".

You can call them whatever you like. These are actually hemispherical tents where you first put up the flysheet and then hook up the tent from the inside. Sort of hybrids of the second and third types :)

The advantage of such tents is that the inner tent can be easily laid out in the rain under the upper awning - and it will remain dry. And in good weather, you don’t have to install the inner awning at all (but beware of mosquitoes!).

Setting up this tent is quite easy. First, you stretch the awning on the outer arches, for which there are special “pockets” on the awning. And then you hook up the tent inside - that’s it, your waterproof citadel is ready for use.