One way to stay warm in winter is with heated insoles. To make the right choice, it is worth understanding the varieties of such insoles and the operating principles of each of their types.
Varieties and principle of operation
According to the principle of operation, heating insoles can be divided into two categories: chemical and with a heating element inside.
Chemical heated insoles
These insoles are disposable. They are usually sold in sealed packaging. They can be made in the form of insoles or as a small bag with a self-adhesive side - to secure directly in a frozen place, usually in the area of the toes. The package must be opened and, if indicated in the instructions, shaken so that the chemical reaction starts immediately. After this, you need to put the insoles into the shoes or glue them to the sock, depending on the rules provided by the manufacturer.
Typically the heating effect lasts 4-6 hours. Some companies, for example, Toe Warmer, offer up to 8 hours of operation and an estimated temperature of 50°, and “Warm Up” insoles - 6 hours and a temperature of 38-45°.
Heating is possible thanks to iron powder, which, when oxidized, releases heat. Sodium chloride and salt inhibit this process to eliminate the possibility of burns. In addition, the insole may contain activated carbon or small sawdust; their purpose is to absorb excess moisture and unpleasant odors. The outer surface of the insole is coated with a compound that prevents heat dissipation outward.
Typically, the heating temperature of these insoles is not as high as we would like - but this is a matter of choice of manufacturer and price. For example, expensive Japanese heated insoles provide a reliable temperature of about 50° for 6 hours. At the same time, Chinese analogues are only capable of 38-40°, while the operating time can be quite short - 2-4 hours. The price of a quality product may be higher than expected.
A prerequisite for use is air circulation in the shoes. If the shoes fit too tightly, the warmth from the insoles will not be felt. Oxygen is necessary for the oxidation of iron - thanks to this chemical reaction, a warming effect is possible. With the exception of this nuance, the insoles are suitable for any shoes.
Chemical insoles are intended for one-time use. For some, this is a drawback, because if there is a need to warm your feet every day, you need to buy many sets at once. On the other hand, this option is suitable for those who do not want to monitor the battery charge level. At the same time, disposable insoles are perfect for those who do not need such heating often: for example, when going with friends on a winter picnic once a year, or for skiing occasionally. The scheme is as simple as possible: buy, stick, warm up, remove and throw away.
Another plus is that the insoles are comfortable and almost invisible. No batteries, accumulators or wires. Some varieties can be "restarted" with water. However, you should not expect a significant result: a couple of hours at most and the outlet temperature is 30-35°. Unlike other insoles, the minimum size of which is 35, chemical insoles can be inserted into children's shoes.
Insoles with heating element
Another type of heated insoles differs in that the heating is carried out by a metal thread or plate that is powered by batteries or an accumulator. Based on the location of the battery, this type of insoles can be divided into two categories:
- Wireless. The battery is built directly into the insole.
- Wired. The insoles have a remote mount for batteries.
Wireless
The battery of such insoles is located directly inside, usually in the heel. A thread or plate is powered from it, depending on the manufacturer and model. Usually this heating element is located under the toes, because they are the first to freeze, but there are models where a strip of metal runs along the entire foot. Both the battery and the heating element are contained in a shell that distributes heat evenly, minimizing heat loss.
The temperature of the insoles can reach 51°, and the operating time and service life depend on the battery. In order to charge it, it will take no more than 4 hours, but it can work up to 10.
The advantages of wireless heated insoles include a certain durability compared to disposable insoles, and the fact that no wires get in the way, creating the risk of breakage. You can control the heating using the remote control - it’s convenient; you can adjust the temperature or turn them off altogether, for example, when entering a room. Models that do not have a remote control can be turned off only by removing the insoles from the shoes; this is not very convenient. The battery can be replaced with regular batteries if necessary. The insoles are not afraid of moisture, but if you get your feet very wet (for example, drown the insoles in a lake), the battery will stop working and the insoles will turn into regular ones.
More precisely, not quite ordinary - and that’s about the disadvantages. The battery is definitely thicker than a regular insole. Because of this, the heel is noticeably higher than the toes, and this is not always convenient. Although insoles can be reduced by one or two sizes by cutting along the dotted lines with scissors, it is not always easy to guess the right one. You will most likely need a shoe size or two larger. The battery operates cyclically, and the operating cycles of two insoles may differ - one heats, the other “rests”. Some types of insoles turn on when you press on the heel - this is not suitable for cyclists, fishermen and hunters in ambush. If the heating element is a metal plate running through the entire insole, there is a risk of breaking it, this can happen faster than it seems.
The battery, like any other battery, does not like shock. Therefore, you should not jump on rocks from great heights wearing these insoles. It is important to avoid tearing or deforming the insole guard.
Wired insoles
This type of heated insoles is very similar to the previous one, except that the battery is located outside. From the heating element there is a wire, which from different manufacturers can be from 40 cm to 60 cm long. At the other end of the wire there is a block into which batteries are inserted. Blazewear models have a power regulator on this block. With its help you can control the temperature, turn the heating on or off.
On the positive side, we can note the maximum operating time - up to 11 hours with one battery and a set of batteries.
The thickness of the insole does not differ from the usual one, and the size can be reduced with scissors up to 35. Heating is not cyclical, but constant - the temperature depends on the selected mode. The service life of the insoles depends on the battery, which can later be replaced.
The battery is placed on the shin. On the one hand, this is a plus - nothing gets in the way inside the boot. The risk of breaking the wire is small, but still there. The worst thing in this situation is that the insoles will stop working. Moreover, they are designed so that there is no risk of spontaneous combustion. You can jump and run in these insoles without fear of damaging the battery. The Ohm can be attached to the leg or to the inside of a boot or shoe.
Still, you still need to get used to the additional detail on the shin. In this case, a lot depends on the fastening. If it is an elastic band, it is important that the leg is not pulled too tightly - this will impede blood flow. If the batteries are attached with Velcro, they must be quite reliable - that is, the length of the adhesive part is at least 5 cm.
How to choose heated insoles?
Before you go to the store for heating insoles, you need to determine their purpose. If you need them every day, it makes sense to invest in products with a heating element. If such help is needed only from time to time, you can purchase several packages of good quality chemical insoles. If there is a risk of breaking the wire, for example when traveling over rough terrain, it may be better to stick with cordless options.
The best option is if the manufacturer has a service center where you can view and try on the insole and ask any questions that concern you.
Another important point regarding insoles with a heating element is the battery. Is it possible to replace wireless insoles? This is usually rare. If it is specific, then what is the probability of finding a suitable one in three years? It may be worth giving preference to insoles that can be powered by universal batteries or batteries. If we are talking about wired insoles, you need to check the fastening - its reliability, convenience and practicality.
Care and operation
There is one rule that applies to all three types of insoles - you must not break the protective casing. Although most insoles can tolerate a certain amount of moisture, it is best not to test them for water tolerance - although products with a remote battery have a better chance in this regard.
When you get home, it’s better to take out the insoles. If they were wet, let them dry and charge them. Do not allow kinks or tension on the wire - this can shorten its service life.
Review of heated insoles manufacturers
ThermaCell wireless insoles are powered by a lithium-ion battery, a full charge of which provides 5 hours of comfortable heating. To adjust the temperature, the kit includes a small remote control with three settings. The insoles can be adjusted to five sizes.
Wired Blasewear insoles also have three settings, which can be controlled on a remote battery. Can be adjusted to any shoe size. Temperatures can reach up to 51°, which is necessary only in critical frosts. At the same time, infrared radiation helps improve blood circulation, which is a tangible advantage - after all, heating will be not only from the outside, but also from the inside.
Similar properties are also found in DiClime insoles, the battery of which is attached to the ankle. They are equipped with a sensor, thanks to which it is possible to save battery power.
How to make heated insoles with your own hands
There are no particular difficulties in constructing wired insoles, so if you have some skills, you can make them yourself. For this you will need:
- felt insoles;
- nichrome thread with a diameter of 0.2-0.3 mm;
- 3 meters of wire – multi-wire, single-phase, insulated will do;
- mini jack connector and plug (2 sets);
- compartment for four batteries
- thread with needle
- fastening for batteries - Velcro is ideal;
- crimp sleeves;
- switch;
- hot melt adhesive.
Before assembling the insoles, you need to take the nichrome of the expected length, wrap it in a thin cloth and squeeze it with your palms. If the temperature is too high, it is better to increase the length, if on the contrary, reduce it.
After this, the nichrome needs to be secured to the insole with a needle and thread in the place where the foot usually freezes. In this case, it is better to bring the ends to the inside. This end needs to be connected to the wire; a crimp sleeve is suitable for this. A plug is soldered to the other end of the wire. The length of the wire should be about half a meter.
After this, the battery pack is assembled. Three batteries are used, the unit is needed for four, since the charging connector and switch are inserted into the fourth. The elements are soldered and glued. Ideally, you need a cover that protects the batteries from loss; if you don’t have one, you can attach them with rubber bands.
Velcro is attached to the block. This can be done by simply gluing it to the body or drilling holes and pulling it through - whichever is convenient. The main thing is that the length of the fastening is enough for comfortable placement on the leg.
DIY heated insoles - video
Watch a detailed video with instructions for making heating insoles with your own hands from a true professional here:
Heated insoles are definitely a comfortable and useful thing. You can choose them based on your own preferences and price category, or make them yourself. In any case, comfort, reduction of colds, cystitis and other ailments will more than compensate for possible costs.
I never got around to telling you how I got electric insoles for very reasonable money.
The idea appeared last year. Autumn and early winter were relatively warm, the river remained open until the New Year. In principle, having put on thermal underwear, warm hunting overalls and Kinov pack boots with an estimated temperature of up to -40, you could safely go out on the water and catch pike. But one nuance spoiled all the fun of fishing. The boots, although they were designed for frost down to -40, are designed for walking in such frost. And it doesn’t really look like an inflatable boat. Therefore, even woolen socks did not save us; once an hour we had to land on the shore and gallop along the snowy beach, like a cloven-hoofed saiga, in order to restore blood circulation in the lower extremities. It is clear that “fishing in December” and “comfort” are hardly compatible concepts, but still I wanted to somehow bring them closer. And I saw a friend’s battery insoles for terrible thousands of money, and I wanted the same ones.
In the video above, this is me, with completely frozen feet, trying to find a place where I can go ashore and jump. The sun is shining, it’s beautiful, but the date is December 24 and there is a light frost around -3.
So, based on my clear conviction that any household device that a person might need is already made by the Chinese and sold on Aliexpress, I went looking for size 45 insoles. And I came across the fact that the sizes of Chinese electric insoles do not exceed the declared 43, but in reality they have a maximum size of 42. If you have this foot size, you don’t have to read further, buy it and don’t bother.
If you have a size 44 or larger, you will have to work with your hands. There are options: either buy insoles, as in the link above, rip them apart and take out the thermoelements, or order thermoelements with a wire separately () and glue them to the insoles of your size. It is important that when purchasing a thermocouple, pay attention to the wires. It is better to take those in which both thermoelements are powered by one wire, then you will not have to buy two power sources.
Now let's move on to the manufacture of our electric insole
For the base we take a regular thin fabric insole. It is advisable that it matches the size of the original insole from your shoes. I picked up size 46 "bamboo fiber" insoles from the local grocery store and trimmed them.
Why not the insoles that already live in your shoes? My boots have a multi-layer insole 6 millimeters thick, the lower part of which is made of heat-reflecting foil. If you glue a thermocouple to the foil, the sole of the shoe will heat up, not the foot. And if you glue the thermoelement to the top of the insole, the sock will slide over it. In addition, if the element fails (most often, it gets caught in a wire while walking and the contact is torn off), then it would be a pity to tear it off to solder the contact back on from a good insole. Therefore, we buy or cut out an insole from a suitable material.
We glue a thermoelement to it using basically any kind of glue. I used polyurethane glue from the boat's spare parts (it still needs to be renewed periodically). We glue the thermoelement closer to the toe and the outside of the shoe, i.e. to the part of the leg that freezes the most. We bring the wire to the inside of the shoe, approximately in the middle of the length.
If you do not have heat-reflective foil on the original insole in your shoes, I recommend gluing such foil to the bottom of the insole. It will be an additional protection for the thermoelement and will prevent heat from escaping into the ground.
All! We are waiting for the glue to dry. When the glue has dried, we lay the insoles on top of the ones that are already there. The contact wire must be brought out from the inside of the shoe and secured between the laces. It looks unprepossessing, but it works amazingly. Over the past year, I have had the good fortune to discover that when your feet are warm, it is very difficult to freeze. This is what it looks like for me:
The cost of the resulting electric insoles is $4, including glue and base. The pleasure of winter fishing in warmth and comfort cannot be valued with money!
How to connect and power electric insoles
Connecting the insoles is very simple. The connectors are already brought out and secured between the laces. Now we unravel the wire that comes with the kit (we unravel it to the length of the trouser legs, no more - it will get tangled). One wire to the right pant leg, the second to the left. Power supply in the inner pocket. Lithium power supplies lose capacity in the cold, it is better to keep them warm.
We put on our pants, put on our boots, connect the connectors to the insoles, plug in the USB power socket and enjoy the comfort.
I used to use it as a power source. It lasted approximately 6-7 hours of continuous use. One thermal element of the insole consumes about 500 mA at a voltage of 5 Volts. Obviously the pair is 1 Ampere. The rating on the power bank is always indicated based on the voltage of the batteries built into it, which is 3.7 Volts. Accordingly, in terms of 5 Volts, the capacity of a power bank containing 10 Amperes of 3.7-volt elements will be 7.4A, not counting the losses of the converter. That is, ideally, insoles should work for 7.4 hours.
To put it simply, we can say that with a 10,000 mAh power bank you can count on 6 hours of continuous operation with a reserve. Daylight hours in December range from 7 hours exactly to 7 hours 25 minutes, i.e. A power bank with a capacity of 16000mAh is enough. And if you want to fish in comfort from October to March (i.e. before the spawning ban begins), then take it. I recommend Pineng banks; at a relatively low price (compared to Xiaomi, for example), they also have honest capacity and high-quality electronics inside. This is evidenced by
Forget about the eternal cold in winter! When going for a walk, fishing or hiking, you can simply insert heated insoles into your boots. During the day they will keep your feet warm and help you forget about discomfort. Meanwhile, you don’t need such insoles if you wear high-quality shoes from a manufacturer that has been pleasing its customers with reliable products and flexible prices for many years.
There is a lot of information on the World Wide Web about insoles that protect your feet from the cold. The advantage of these new products is the use of special orthopedic instep supports, and some of them include a control panel.
How does a heated insole work?
The insole is equipped with a heating pad placed in the hollow part. For several hours it effectively protects your feet from the cold. The insole is made of polypropylene material that retains the shape of the foot and evenly distributing heat. In stores today, there are two types of warming insoles: made of genuine leather and made of artificial suede. Its toe section has a perforated surface that helps keep your toes freely warm. The lower part is equipped with pressed channels that distribute warm air throughout the foot.
But not all heated insoles can clearly perform their functions: often the consumer pays for a low-quality product that does not at all meet his expectations. It turns out that the money is spent, but your feet continue to freeze. Therefore, in order not to make a mistake in choosing, let's get acquainted with TOP manufacturers insole for heated shoes and with the characteristics of this product.
With the products of this company, you are guaranteed a comfortable microclimate in your boots. Your thoughts are no longer occupied with the problem of heating your feet when walking. Despite the use of electricity, there are no wires in this model. The ThermaCELL device works as follows: it is inserted into the charger for 3 hours (the first charge is 6 hours), then placed in a boot or boot. The heated insole is powered by a lithium-ion battery that lasts for 5 hours. The total resource is 3000 hours per 500 recharges. The heating is turned on or off using remote controller a, which fits conveniently in your pocket. There are three heating modes and 5 size adjustment options.
The product of this British company can be cut to fit shoes of any size. Inside the insole there is a carbon plate that heated by infrared radiation to almost 46 degrees. The radiation helps improve blood circulation and distribute heat evenly throughout the foot. The heating element is located right under your fingers. The control unit for each insole is attached to the shin or to the outside of the shoe. As in the first option, the insole runs on batteries, and the heating is controlled by a switch on the power supply.
Another company produces high-quality heated insoles that perfectly keep your feet warm during skiing or a long walk. Modern DiClime models have no disadvantages. They are equipped with a built-in battery, which, thanks to its shape, can be discreetly attached to the ankle and does not interfere with walking. They work using infrared heating elements, which have a beneficial effect on the human body and support natural heat exchange. A special sensor allows you to save battery charge.
The advantage of products from this company is their ability to take on a physiological form, which the same instep support has. The heat from the device affecting the foot can even cure leg pain X. A powerful battery is built into the heel area, where there is an input for the charger and a button, when pressed, the insole begins to emit heat. The built-in microcircuit and thermoelement maintain a high temperature for a long time, and the device charges in 2 hours. 2 indicators show the battery charge level.
The heating area of HeatFabric warming insoles is located under the toes that require the most warmth. Like all other models, these insoles can also be cut along the marking lines to obtain the required size. The insoles of this company are made of dense EVA foam material: this is the basis softens the blows and at the same time provides a high level of comfort, and high-quality fabric on top provides an optimal microclimate for the foot. The heating element distributes heat evenly and continuously over the entire surface of the feet for almost 8 hours, providing comfortable heating V. The electric wire, which is located on the inside of the insole in the center, eliminates chafing of the feet.
These are winter insoles with autonomous heating from the battery with adjustable temperature.
What materials are used for this product?
During production, several important principles were taken into account. Firstly, the base of the insole should be made of a material that does not conduct heat well. This is necessary to ensure that there is no heat leakage down to the sole. Accordingly, there should be good heat transfer upward towards the foot. Therefore, to create this useful product with my own hands, I used ordinary felt insoles 5 millimeters thick.
To save on energy costs, it was decided to place the heating element only in the front part of the insole, that is, only where the feet will touch. For this purpose, a nichrome thread 48 centimeters long was used, the wire cross-section was 0.3 millimeters. This is a nichrome thread from a 300 Watt heating device. This is the thinnest wire that the author has found. Purchased at a regular hardware store for 20 rubles.
The temperature is set by a voltage regulator purchased from this Chinese store. Go and write in the search: Voltage regulator from 4 volts. In the same store you can buy ready-made heated insoles.
How the master combined all the parts into finished insoles
The nichrome wire was laid across the insole so that when bending there would be no creases or displacement of the wires. The wire is evenly sewn to the base. In some places double-sided tape is glued so that a second layer can be installed. It is made of genuine leather, which is a fairly dense material that transfers heat very well from the thread to the feet with minimal heat loss and can withstand the heating of the threads themselves. The seams will run between the wires.
After the firmware is completed, the excess parts will be cut off and the insole can be prepared for further installation. Two ends of 2 centimeters each are brought out from the insole. The thread is laid in a zigzag, the distance between the strips is 2 centimeters, in the nose part it is 1.5 centimeters each.
We take two pieces of stranded wire 1.5 meters long. In this case, a wire for car audio was used. It is of very high quality, flexible and less dull in the cold. The wire cross-section is 0.05 millimeters. We connect this wire to the insole. In order to make the connection as thin as possible, it is twisted and clamped with a metal sleeve.
The whole thing is covered with heat-shrinkable insulation on top. We lay the wire, sew it along the bottom side with regular threads to the middle of the sole.
So, the insoles are ready, stitched, wires are connected. It turns out neat. If possible, you can put another insole, sew it or glue it. This will significantly reduce heat loss.
Next, measure the required length of wire and cut off the excess. Now we connect the insoles in series to the required connections. You can use regular connections purchased from a car dealer.
We measure 15 centimeters and make two cuts. There is one such connection on each insole. We install the remaining part of the entire structure.
Detachable connections create convenience in that you can quickly disconnect the contacts and change shoes and dry the insoles.
Power supply for electric insoles
The entire shoe heating circuit is powered by a nickel-metal hydride battery with a voltage of 7.2 volts, 5000 milliamps per hour. Operating time from 5 to 11 hours of continuous operation. The power source may be different. The degree of heating of the insoles depends on the voltage and current. Heating is noticeable from 4 volts. High-quality work from 5-12 volts. The maximum operating temperature is 60 degrees, this is an excessive temperature, but the material can withstand it. The battery and regulator are attached to a leather strap and attached to the waistband.
Heating depending on the regulated voltage (approximately):
4V-0.6A=23-27 C
5V-0.7A=27-32 C
6V-0.8A=32-35 C
7V-0.9A=35-37 C
8V-1A=40-42 C
12V-1.3A=65 C
It will be useful for all those people whose feet are constantly cold. Of course, these are, first of all, fishermen and hunters; we also cannot forget about the sellers in the markets who stand in the cold for days. Such insoles can be used not only in winter, but also in spring, autumn or even summer, on rainy days. With them, your feet will always be warm and dry, and this is the key to health. The device works very simply, and anyone can do it.
How do heated insoles work?
The author used a nichrome thread with a diameter of 0.2 mm and a length of 25.5 cm as a heating element. As a result of measurements, it was found that such a piece of wire has a resistance of 8.9 Ohms. In total, the system uses two modes, one provides for operation from two batteries, and the second from three. In the first case, the insoles will be constantly warm. And the third case is needed to make them hot, but not a state of discomfort or burn. Before installation, it is recommended to do a test run in both modes.
In order to check whether the nichrome is the optimal length, you need to put the wire in a handkerchief or other similar fabric, and then, connecting it to the battery, hold it between your palms. If it gets too hot in your hands, the length of the wire needs to be increased. Thus, you can choose the optimal heating temperature for the insoles.
When operating two AA batteries, the calculated current will be about 270 mA, and from three about 400 mA. Based on these figures and knowledge of the capacity of the batteries used, you can calculate the operating time of the insoles before discharge.
Materials and tools for assembling a homemade product:
- nichrome wire with a diameter of 0.2 mm (length 60 cm);
- two felt insoles;
- about three meters of MGTF wire;
- compartment for installing four AA batteries;
- three position switch;
- two sets of mini jack connectors (plug with socket);
- four crimp sleeves (0.2 mm sq.);
- 1 m of heat shrink tube;
- strips of fabric with a Velcro-type lock;
- hot glue.
Homemade assembly process:
Step one. Connect the wire to the nichrome
To connect the MGTF wire 0.2 mm. sq. The author used crimp sleeves for nichrome. First, the sleeve is put on the nichrome, and then its end must be inserted into the stranded MGTF, cleared of insulation. A sleeve is installed at the joint and then crimped. A special crimping tool is well suited for these purposes, but all this can be done just fine with pliers. The length of the wires is taken such that it is 50 cm from the insole.
Where to lay the wire, everyone decides for themselves, depending on which part of the leg is cold. The author's toe is cold, so nichrome is placed in the front of the shoe. You can see in the photo exactly how to lay the wire.
Step two. Fixing the wire
To fix the wire, you can use thread and a needle. It must be carefully sheathed to form the desired pattern. As for the other end of the wire, a headphone plug is soldered to it for quick connection to a power source.
Step three. Installing the battery compartment and testing the device
The author uses three batteries in total, but the case is chosen to accommodate four. One compartment is used to install a switch and a mini jack socket. After soldering, the elements are fixed in place using hot glue. If it so happens that there is no cover on the battery compartment, then this is not a problem; the batteries can be pressed with a rubber band.
In order to fix the power source on the leg, you need to drill holes on the other side of the compartment, using them to attach a piece of tape with Velcro. Now