Heating system piping plan. Heating installation in a private house

An effective heating system will make life comfortable in any home. Well, if the heating works very poorly, then the level of comfort will not be saved by any design delights. Therefore, now we will talk about diagrams and rules for installing elements of a system that heats a home.

What you need for assembly - 3 main parts

Any heating system consists of three basic components:

heat source - this role can be played by a boiler, stove, fireplace;
heat transfer line - usually this is the pipeline through which the coolant circulates;
heating element - in traditional systems this is a classic radiator that converts the energy of the coolant into thermal radiation.

Boiler room layout in the house

Of course, there are schemes that exclude the first and second elements of this chain. For example, the well-known stove heating, when the source is also a heating element, and the heat transfer line is absent in principle. Or convection heating, when the radiator is excluded from the chain, since the source heats the air itself in the house to the desired temperature. However, the oven scheme was considered obsolete at the beginning of the twentieth century, and the convection option is very difficult to implement with your own hands without special knowledge and specific skills. Therefore, most household systems are built on the basis of a hot water boiler and a water circuit (piping).

As a result, to build the system we will need one boiler, several radiators (usually their number is equal to the number of windows) and fittings for the pipeline with associated fittings. Moreover, in order to assemble the heating of a private house, you will have to connect all these components within one system with your own hands. But before that, it would be nice to understand the parameters of each element - from the boiler to pipes and radiators, in order to know what to buy for your home.

Which boiler to choose and how to calculate its power

Water heating draws energy from a special boiler, the combustion chamber of which is surrounded by a jacket filled with liquid coolant. At the same time, any product can burn in the firebox - from gas to peat. Therefore, before assembling the system, it is very important to choose not only the power, but also the type of heat source. And you will have to choose between three options:

Gas boiler - it processes main or bottled fuel into heat.
Solid fuel heater - it is powered by coal, firewood or fuel pellets (pellets, briquettes).
Electrical source - it converts electricity into heat.

The best option of all of the above is a gas heat generator running on main fuel. It is cheap to operate and operates continuously, since fuel is supplied automatically and in arbitrarily large volumes. Moreover, such equipment has virtually no disadvantages, except for the high fire hazard that is inherent in all boilers.

A good option for a heat generator that heats a private house without a gas pipeline is a solid fuel boiler. Especially models designed for long-term burning. Fuel for such boilers can be found anywhere, and the special design allows you to reduce the loading frequency from twice a day to once filling the firebox every 2-3 days. However, even such boilers are not exempt from periodic cleaning, so this is the main disadvantage of such a heater.

The worst choice of all possible is an electric boiler. The disadvantages of such a proposal are obvious - the transformation of electricity into coolant energy is too expensive. In addition, an electric boiler requires frequent replacement of the heater and the installation of a reinforced electrical wiring line, as well as grounding. The only advantage of this option is the complete absence of combustion products. An electric boiler does not require a chimney. Therefore, most households choose either gas or solid fuel options. However, in addition to the type of fuel, the homeowner also needs to pay attention to the parameters of the heat generator itself, or more precisely, to its power, which should compensate for the heat losses of the home in the winter.

Choosing a boiler based on power begins with calculating the square footage of the heated premises. Moreover, for each square meter there must be at least 100 watts of thermal power. That is, for a room of 70 square meters you need a boiler of 7000 watts or 7 kW. In addition, it would be a good idea to include a 15% reserve in the boiler capacity, which will be useful during severe cold weather. As a result, for a house of 70 m2 you need a boiler of 8.05 kW (7 kW 15%).

More accurate calculations of heater power rely not on the squares of the area, but on the volume of the house. In this case, it is generally accepted that the energy costs for heating one cubic meter are equal to 41 watts. And a house with an area of 70 m2 with a 3-meter ceiling height should be heated by a heat-generating device with a capacity of 8610 watts (70 × 3 × 41). And taking into account the 15% power reserve for extreme cold, the maximum heat-generating capacity of such a boiler should be equal to 9901 watts or, taking into account rounding, 10 kW.

Batteries and pipes - copper, propylene or metal-plastic?

To install a heating system throughout the house, we need pipes and radiators. The latter can be chosen even based on aesthetic preferences. In a private house there is no high pressure in the system, therefore, there are no restrictions on the strength characteristics of radiators. However, the requirements for the heat-generating capacity of batteries still remain. Therefore, when selecting radiators, it will be correct to focus not only on appearance, but also on heat transfer. After all, the power of the heating element must correspond to the area or volume of the room. For example, in a room of 15 square meters there should be a battery (or several radiators) with a power of 1.5 kW.

With pipes the situation becomes more complicated. Here you need to take into account not only the aesthetic component, but also the ability to install the network on your own with minimal knowledge and effort on the part of a home-grown mechanic. Therefore, we can consider only three options as candidates for the role of ideal fittings for wiring:

Copper pipes - they are used in the arrangement of both domestic and industrial heating systems, but are very expensive. In addition, such fittings are connected using soldering, and not everyone is familiar with this operation.
Polypropylene pipes - they are cheap, but their installation requires a special welding machine. However, even a child can master such a device.
Metal-plastic pipes - such a system can be assembled using a wrench. In addition, metal-plastic is no more expensive than polypropylene pipes and allows you to save on corner fittings.

As a result, it is better to assemble home-made heating based on metal-plastic fittings, since it does not require the performer to be able to handle a welding machine or soldering iron. In turn, collet fittings of a metal-plastic pipeline can be installed even by hand, helping yourself with wrenches only on the last 3-4 turns. Regarding the dimensions of the fittings, or rather the bore diameter, experienced specialists in the arrangement of heating systems have the following opinion: for a system with a pump, you can choose a ½-inch pipe - this bore diameter is sufficient for a home system in excess.

Well, if pressure equipment will not be used (water will flow through the pipes by gravity, driven by gravitational and thermal convection), then a 1¼ or 1½ inch pipe will be sufficient for such a system. There is no need to buy reinforcement of a larger diameter under such circumstances. And which wiring to choose - pressure or non-pressure, we will talk about this below in the text, at the same time discussing the optimal diagrams for connecting batteries to the boiler.

Optimal wiring diagram for self-installation

Home heating is based on two schemes: one-pipe and two-pipe. In addition, household wiring can also be built on a collector basis, but it is difficult for novice craftsmen to assemble such a circuit, so further in the text we will not consider this option, focusing only on one- and two-pipe options.

Single-pipe wiring assumes the following coolant circulation plan: the hot flow leaves the boiler jacket and flows through the pipe into the first battery, from which it enters the second, and so on, until the outermost radiator. There is virtually no return in such a system - it is replaced by a short section connecting the outermost battery and the boiler. Moreover, when designing a single-pipe forced circuit, pressure equipment (circulation pump) is placed on this section.

This system is very easy to assemble. To do this, you need to install the boiler, hang the batteries and run one wiring thread between each preinstalled elements of the heating circuit. However, you will have to pay for the ease of installation by the lack of mechanisms for controlling the heat transfer of radiators. In this case, you can regulate the temperature in the room only by changing the intensity of fuel combustion in the boiler. And nothing else.

Of course, given the high cost of fuel, this nuance will suit only a few homeowners, so they try not to use single-circuit wiring in rooms with an area of 50 square meters or more. However, such a layout is simply ideal for small buildings, as well as for the natural coolant circulation pattern, when the pressure is generated due to temperature and gravitational forces.

The two-pipe system is designed a little differently. In this case, the following coolant flow pattern applies: water leaves the boiler jacket and enters the pressure circuit, from which it drains into the first, second, third batteries, and so on. The return in this system is implemented in the form of a separate circuit, laid parallel to the pressure branch, and the coolant that has passed through the battery is drained into the return line, returning to the boiler. That is, in a double-circuit scheme, radiators are connected to the pressure and return pipes using special branches cut into two main lines.

To make such a circuit, you need to use more pipes and fittings, but all the costs will pay off in the near future. The dual-circuit option assumes the ability to adjust the heat transfer of each battery. To do this, it is enough to install a shut-off and control valve into the branch from the pressure line connected to the radiator, after which it becomes possible to control the volume of coolant pumped through the battery without interfering with the general circulation. Thanks to this, you can protect yourself not only from overheating the air in a particular room, but also from senseless overconsumption of fuel and personal funds allocated for its purchase.

This version of the wiring diagram has only one drawback: on its basis it is very difficult to assemble an effective system using natural coolant circulation. But based on a pump, it works much better than its single-circuit counterpart. Therefore, further in the text we will consider step-by-step instructions for assembling a single-circuit system using natural circulation and a double-circuit network using forced coolant movement.

Assembling a heating system with natural circulation

The construction of a natural circulation system begins with choosing a location. The heat source should be in a corner room, located at the lowest point of the wiring. After all, the batteries will go along the internal perimeter, along the load-bearing walls, and even the last radiator should be located slightly above the boiler. Once the location for the boiler has been chosen, you can begin installing it. To do this, the wall in the placement area is covered with tiles, and either a galvanized sheet or a flat slate panel is placed on the floor. The next stage is the installation of the chimney, after which you can install the boiler itself, connecting it to the exhaust pipe and fuel line (if there is one)

Further installation is carried out in the direction of movement of the coolant and is implemented according to the following scheme. First, batteries are hung under the windows. Moreover, the upper pipe of the last radiator should be located above the pressure outlet from the boiler. The amount of elevation is calculated based on the proportion: one linear meter of wiring is equal to two centimeters of elevation. The penultimate radiator is hung 2 cm higher than the last one, and so on, up to the first battery in the direction of the coolant.

When the required number of batteries is already hanging on the walls of the house, you can proceed to assembling the wiring. To do this, you need to connect a 30-centimeter section of horizontal pipeline to the pressure pipe (or fitting) of the boiler. Next, a vertical pipe raised to the ceiling level is attached to this section. In this pipe, a tee is screwed onto a vertical line, providing a transition to a horizontal slope and arrangement of the insertion point for the expansion tank.

To install the tank, use a vertical tee fitting, and screw a second horizontal section of the pressure pipe to the free outlet, which is pulled at an angle (2 cm by 1 m) to the first radiator. There the horizontal turns into a second vertical section, descending to the radiator pipe, to which the pipe is joined using a collet fitting with a threaded elbow.

Next, you need to connect the upper pipe of the first radiator with the corresponding connector of the second radiator. To do this, use a pipe of the appropriate length and two fittings. After this, the lower radiator pipes are connected in the same way. And so on, until the penultimate and last battery is connected. Finally, you need to install the Mayevsky faucet into the upper free fitting of the last battery and connect the return pipe to the lower free connector of this radiator, which is inserted into the lower pipe of the boiler.

To fill the system with water in the return pipe, you can install a tee insert with a ball valve on the side outlet. We connect the outlet from the water supply to the free end of this valve. After which the system can be filled with water and the boiler turned on.

Heating with forced circulation in 8 steps

It will also be justified in the case of single-circuit wiring. However, maximum efficiency of a system with forced circulation will be ensured only by two-pipe wiring, arranged according to the following rules:

1. The boiler can be installed on the floor or hung on the wall in any room without monitoring the level of the heating device.
2. Next, two pipes are lowered from the boiler pressure and return pipes to the floor level, using either couplings or corner fittings.
3. Two horizontal lines are installed at the ends of these pipes - pressure and return. They run along the load-bearing walls of the house, from the boiler to the location of the outermost battery.
4. At the next stage, you need to hang the batteries, not paying attention to the level of the pipes relative to the adjacent radiator. The entrance and exit from the battery can be located at the same level or at different levels; this fact will not affect the heating efficiency.
5. Next, we cut a tee into the pressure and return branches, placing them under the inlet and outlet of each battery. After this, we connect the tee of the pressure pipe to the inlet of the battery, and the fitting on the return line to the outlet. Moreover, this operation will have to be done with all batteries. Using a similar scheme, we install outlets in the system for connecting heated floors.
6. At the next stage, we install the expansion tank. To do this, we cut a tee into the section of the pressure pipe between the boiler and the first battery, the outlet of which is connected by a vertical pipe to the entrance to the expansion tank.
7. Next, you can begin installing the circulation pump. To do this, we install a valve and two tees in the return line between the first battery and the boiler, assembling a bypass for the pump. Next, we remove two L-shaped sections from the tees, between the ends of which we mount the pump.
8. Finally, we arrange a drain for pouring water into the system. To do this, you need to cut another tee between the pump and the boiler, connecting a hose from the water supply to its outlet.

Acting according to this plan, you can assemble a two-pipe wiring in a house of any size. After all, the design of such a system does not depend on the number of batteries - the installation principle will be identical for both two and 20 radiators.

How to increase system efficiency - battery or bypass?

To increase the efficiency of heating systems in everyday life, either heat accumulators or bypasses are used. The first ones are installed in large boiler rooms, the second ones - in small rooms where, in addition to the boiler, there is other equipment. A heat accumulator is a container filled with water, inside which the pressure and return lines of the heating system are laid. As a rule, such a container is placed immediately behind the boiler. Safety valves, expansion tanks and circulation pumps can be embedded into the section of the pressure and return pipeline located between the heater and the battery.

In this case, the pressure line heats the water in the tank, and the return line heats up from the liquid poured into the battery. Therefore, when the boiler burner is turned off, the system can operate for some time only from a heat accumulator, which is very beneficial when used in a circuit that generates excess energy at the start of combustion of a portion of wood or coal supplied with the firebox. The capacity of the heat accumulator is determined by the proportion 1 kW of boiler power = 50 liters of tank volume. That is, for a 10 kW heater you need a battery with a capacity of 500 liters (0.5 m3).

A bypass is a bypass pipe that is welded between the pressure and return branches. Its diameter should not exceed the radius of the main highway. Moreover, it is better to install a shut-off valve into the bypass body in advance, blocking the circulation of the coolant.

When the valve is open, part of the hot flow does not go into the pressure circuit, but directly into the return circuit. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the heating temperature of the battery by 10 percent, reducing the volume of coolant pumped through the radiator by 30%. As a result, using a bypass, you can regulate the operation of the radiator in both double-circuit and single-circuit wiring. In the latter case, this is especially true, since the bypass embedded in the first two batteries provides stronger heating of the last radiator in the line and makes it possible to control the temperature in the rooms, although not with such efficiency as in the case of a two-pipe wiring.

An indicator of the correct functioning of any system is its efficiency. In order to achieve this, various nuances must be observed and taken into account. This is also true when heating pipes are installed in a house.

Classification

In order to ensure maximum coolant output in each radiator, it is necessary to take an individual approach to installation. Based on the number of pipes used in the system, there are:

single-pipe;
two-pipe;
collector type (also called beam type);
baseboard.

According to the installation method, the circuits can be:

hidden - pipes are recessed into special grooves in the wall and screed;
open - requires less effort, because pipes are located externally;
vertical;
horizontal.

According to the method of water flow in the system, there are:

natural;
forced.

The system, in general, can be:

open - the expansion tank has contact with the environment, so it is constantly necessary to monitor the liquid level in the middle;
closed - in this option there is usually a certain constant pressure inside. The tank itself consists of a metal casing and a rubber bulb; the liquid does not have direct contact with atmospheric air.

Single pipe system

In other words, this connection method can be called serial; here are some of its advantages and disadvantages:

Possibility of implementing a gravity circuit.
Minimum amount of consumable material.
Possibility of using an open type system.
The radiator that is closer to the source will always be warmer, the latter will have the lowest temperature.
If a bypass system is not implemented, then after one of the batteries is clogged, the entire system stops functioning.
For such a forced current system, a pump with more power is always needed than for a two-pipe system.
A strict approach to the number of radiators on one riser.

Many modern solutions make it possible to compensate or completely eliminate all the disadvantages that this type of connection has.

A one-pipe system can be:

Vertical. In this option, the coolant rises upward using a pipe that runs under the ceiling or through the attic, and pipes go down from it to the batteries. When choosing this installation method, there is an advantage of organizing natural circulation, which will make it possible not to depend on the availability of electric current for the pump.
Horizontal. In this case, the main pipe can be hidden in the screed, and pipes rise from it to the radiators. Typically, the supply to the radiator is supplied from above, and the return leaves from below. In both systems, the Leningradka method is often used. It implies the presence of a bypass or jumper. Those. In addition to the fact that the main pipe approaches the radiator, a jumper is formed below it with a pipe with a smaller diameter. With this approach, you can install a thermostatic head and equalize the temperature in all batteries. Also, if one of the elements becomes airy, the rest will continue to function.

Note! When choosing natural circulation, it is better if the total length of the supply circuit does not exceed 30 meters. In this case, the desired performance is achieved.

Here are some tips to help you install this wiring method in the best possible way:

This connection method can be called parallel. There are two pipes in it at once, one of them is supply, the second is return. The nuances of this type of wiring are:

Relatively equal temperature in all nodes.
Possibility of inserting additional radiators if necessary.
Fine temperature control in each battery.
Unlimited number of floors.
The use of a circulation pump of lower power than in a single-pipe system.
The failure of one radiator does not affect the system as a whole.
The ability to carry out repair work without stopping the entire circulation circuit.
Additional material costs.
The complexity of implementing a gravity flow system.

This type of wiring can be either vertical or horizontal:

Vertical is usually used in multi-story buildings where two risers rise. From one of them, hot water is supplied to each node, and through the second, liquid with a reduced temperature is removed after return.
Horizontal has two subtypes: with top connection and with bottom connection. In the first case, the supply pipe rises to the highest point and from it is supplied to all radiators. The return line is located under the batteries or even lower. In the second option, two pipes are located next to each other. They are usually located under radiators or even lower - in the basement. The advantage of the lower supply is that the lower contour of a multi-storey building can be used regardless of whether the renovation work above has been completed or not.

According to the method of water flow in the system, the horizontal installation method is further divided into:

Dead end. In this case, the supply and return links are ringed in the last radiator.
Along the way. It implies the presence of its own mini-circuit for each diffuser. Those. supply and return are looped in each battery. With this scheme it will be easier to calculate losses and perform hydraulic balancing. But if airing occurs in one of the mini-circuits, this can lead to the fact that water will tend to where there is less resistance, which will lead to uneven heating.

Installation sequence:

First you need to choose which installation method is best suited for your home.
Calculate the total number of radiators that will be installed and the diameter of the pipes. This will make it possible to see how much water it will take to fill, and also to select the appropriate expansion tank.
If you choose an open system, then the tank should be installed at the highest point. If the system is closed, it is usually mounted next to the boiler.
During natural circulation, maintain the angle of inclination.
If you plan to hide pipes in grooves, be sure to insulate them.
For greater efficiency, use a circulation pump.
Each radiator must have a shut-off mechanism (or thermal head), as well as a Mayevsky tap.
Provide a pipe with a tap for filling and bleeding the entire system.

It is usually classified as a subspecies of two-pipe. This wiring method implies the presence of a separate circuit for each device or for a group of devices (it can be combined with other types of wiring. For example, a central input is made using a manifold, and from it there is a branch for a one-pipe or two-pipe system in each apartment). Its essence lies in the installation of two splitters - collectors - they have the shape of a pipe with a large number of passages. The general supply comes to it, and is then distributed among all circuits.

Here, as always, there are pros and cons:

Possibility of adjusting each individual circuit.
Disabling a specific circuit in the event of an unforeseen situation.
Uniform temperature distribution.
Possibility of application over large areas.
No pressure difference at different points.
Hidden installation system.
A small number of connections, which guarantees high stability and reliability of the entire system.
Possibility of introducing new nodes without making changes to existing contours.
The cost of the entire system is quite high.
Certain difficulty in installation.
The need for a large number of grooves.
Impossibility of creating a natural flow of water.

If you decide to do the installation yourself, then keep in mind some recommendations:

When choosing a manifold, choose one in which the taps are easy to disassemble and can be quickly repaired.
Buy a manifold with several strokes for stock or set-up, so that later you can add additional circuits.
First, a location for mounting the manifold cabinet is selected, after which the wiring is carried out.
Two collectors are installed at once: one supply, the other discharge.
Pipes leading to the collector must be insulated so that the temperature in this area is not too high.
Mount a pressure gauge on the manifold so you can always monitor the pressure in the system.
Provide a common tap for each collector, which will allow you to shut off all circuits at the same time.
Be sure to install coarse and fine filters on the cold water supply. This is usually done in front of the boiler.
Try to calculate the length of the pipes in such a way that no additional connections are required.
If possible, avoid pipes with soldering; at each connection the diameter will narrow.
Label the pipe so as not to confuse the contours.
Do not hide the connection in the groove, because there will be problems with repairing it if any difficulties arise.

The collector wiring device is discussed in detail in the following video:

This is a system of radiators that are mounted directly instead of the baseboard or above it. They are closed using a decorative panel, so a person who has never encountered these systems may not understand that this is a functioning heating system. At its core, this method resembles a one-pipe connection. Water is supplied through the upper tube, which is connected to the lower one at the end of the baseboard. The main points of this method are:

Compact dimensions.
Dissipative plates directly on heating pipes.
A small difference in the coolant after passing the entire segment.
Fast heating.
Easy to install.
Anti-corrosion materials.
Warms up external walls around the entire perimeter.
Uniform distribution of warm air throughout the room.
The biggest disadvantage is that in very cold conditions it cannot be used as the main heating.
It is better that the contour does not exceed 15 meters in length.
It is undesirable to block the air flow to the baseboard with furniture.
Quite a high cost of the system.

Installation of this type of wiring is quite simple. A special strip is installed on the wall, and individual sections are assembled onto it and connected to each other by crimping. Two pipes are connected to the boiler.

All types of wiring can be combined in a private home in a way that is convenient for specific conditions. The main thing is to always make clear calculations that will reflect actual losses and hydraulic differences.

It is difficult to imagine a modern home without a heating system. There are various ways to create such systems. The difference usually lies in the fuel used - gas, coal, pellets, firewood. Heating boilers are divided into gas, solid fuel, pellet and electric. For any craftsman, drawing a diagram and assembling a heating system for his home is a completely solvable task. It’s no secret that most heating schemes were invented by ordinary people, practitioners, not burdened with scientific titles and regalia.

The benefit of making your own heating circuit is a significant reduction in financial costs. Of course, when choosing gas heating, you will have to pay for the development of the project and the work of licensed specialists for the installation and initial startup of the boiler. If you plan to install a solid fuel boiler, then all stages from the sketch to the launch of the system can be carried out independently. Undoubtedly, creating a heating system for a private home is a complex engineering task.

Of course, specialists with experience in design and installation will solve this problem faster and better. If a decision is made to involve them, then it is necessary to clearly determine the degree of their participation in the creation and installation of the system circuit. Possible options:

Private houses are heated by heating systems. They use a convenient and universal method of delivering heat using a coolant. You can heat the coolant in various ways. Often, owners use several water heating devices.

Any heating scheme in a private house consists of the following components:

If you want to create heating for a private house with your own hands, the schemes are selected based on the possibilities. There are few options, there are only two:

Determining which heating scheme for a private home is optimal is difficult, especially for a non-specialist, so you should definitely consult a professional. Most heating circuit specialists are convinced that a two-pipe heating circuit for a private house is optimal. There is a misconception that a single-pipe system costs less.

The opinion of many experts is the opposite - it is more expensive and more difficult to set up and adjust. The principle of its operation is the sequential movement of liquid through the radiators, which means that the temperature drops from battery to battery, so it is necessary to increase the power of the system. The main pipe is selected with a larger diameter. In addition, the mutual influence of heating devices on each other is very strong. This influence makes automatic control difficult.

Where is a single-pipe heating scheme used?

Heating of small houses is successfully provided by the Leningradka heating scheme, which has as many as four varieties. Among them are two types of one-pipe/two-pipe open systems and two one-pipe/two-pipe closed systems.

For a small house, a do-it-yourself heating system for a private house is chosen to be a single-pipe scheme, but if the number of batteries is no more than 5, if there are more of them, then the last radiators do not warm up well. When starting the heating of a two-story house, the Leningradka circuit also works successfully, but the number of batteries is no more than six.

Single-pipe vertical heating systems work better.

Heated coolant of the same temperature is supplied to all vertical risers, and the batteries of the upper and lower floors are connected in series.

Features of two-pipe circuit wiring

The two-pipe system comes in several varieties. They have a different connection diagram for heating radiators in a private house, and a different vector of coolant movement.

In small private houses, the following types of two-pipe heating systems are used:

dead end;
passing;
collector (radial).

Brief characteristics of two-pipe systems

Dead-end system - the entire pipeline network consists of two arms (branches), one for supply and the other arm for coolant return. The movement of water occurs in counter directions.

Associated two-pipe system - the return arm serves as a continuation of the supply arm (branch), i.e. the system is looped. This heating connection scheme in a private house is deservedly popular.

Collector is the most expensive heating distribution scheme for a private house due to the need to lay pipes to each battery, and their installation is hidden.

Open "gravity" two-pipe system

Let's consider the heating system installed in a private house with our own hands; a two-pipe open circuit was chosen and an open tank was installed at the top point of the circuit. The pressure that determines the speed of fluid movement in the “gravity” system depends on the height of the tank. The main advantage of a two-pipe system is that water flows to the radiators at the same temperature, and a clear separation of pipelines into supply and return makes it easier to automate control.

For successful operation of the “gravity” system, a slope of 3-5 mm/m is ensured during installation. Due to gravity, any type of heating system can operate if the necessary conditions are created - the slope of the coolant supply lines for natural circulation. It must be taken into account that the “gravity” system can only work with an open expansion tank.

Closed two-pipe system

When installed in a private house, the circuit chosen is closed, and its appearance depends on the number of floors of the building. If the house is one-story, then two pipeline branches are laid - supply and return, and heating devices are connected to them in parallel.

And in order to install the heating of a two-story private house with your own hands, the wiring diagrams must contain the required number of liquid supply branches. One branch of the collector should power the batteries on the upper floor, the second branch should power the batteries on the lower floor. The water that has given up its heat returns to the boiler through the “return”. A closed system must have a circulation pump to create pressure.

Warm floor - uniform and comfortable heating

Schemes of heating systems for a private home are becoming popular - comfortable heated floors. The practical implementation of such a project involves laying hundreds of meters of pipes, usually made of polypropylene, under the screed to assemble the heating circuit. The ends of the pipes go to the distribution manifold. The liquid in the heated floor line moves separately.

Heating system installation

It is possible to positively resolve the problem - how to install heating in a private house (the diagram is given above) if you follow certain rules and the sequence of work. Installation work begins with the installation and subsequent piping of the boiler. Gas boilers with a power of up to 60 kW are installed in the kitchen. All rules for installing boilers are described in detail in the instructions for them.

Piping a heating boiler is the process of connecting the necessary equipment.

There are two ways to install a heating circuit from gas and water (metal) pipes - welding and using threaded connections. Of course, you can quickly create a system using the welding method, but it will turn out to be non-separable. By connecting the system pipes with threaded connections, you can easily change the configuration or replace any section of the pipeline at any time. For any installation method, the connection diagram for heating radiators in a private house requires special attention, and it must be drawn and calculated in advance.

Double-circuit heating system

DHW (hot water supply) is created by a double-circuit heating system of a private house; its wiring diagram is drawn before installation begins, and then installed to the selected hot water supply point. Gas consumption when using a dual-circuit system increases slightly. With intensive hot water extraction, consumption is 25% higher.

Features of the use of polypropylene pipes

Implementing a heating scheme in a private house made of polypropylene has many advantages. Polypropylene pipes are cheaper and lighter than metal pipes, they do not rust. Plastic pipes do not need painting, they look good and do not deteriorate the interior of the room. The procedure for creating a heating system from polypropylene pipes is reminiscent of assembling it from a construction set. Pipes are quickly and efficiently connected using a welding unit.

The following equipment, tools and materials are used for installation of polypropylene pipes:

Note: the amount of necessary materials, tools and components is determined before installation, after drawing the heating circuit diagram. Couplings, ball valves and fittings are purchased depending on the type of boiler, the selected design and the size of the polypropylene pipe.

Water electric heating

If you use electric heating of a private house with your own hands, the circuit connection diagrams are described above. An electric boiler can be designated as the main source of heat or as a backup if the house already has a heating source, for example a gas boiler. An electric boiler consumes significant power, so the wiring cross-section must correspond to the current consumed.

It is not at all necessary to make reinforced wiring throughout the house; it is enough to lay a suitable cable from the meter to the boiler. Since an electric boiler is a device that heats water, a closed system or a gravity heating system for a private house will work with it, using a standard scheme. Pipeline diagrams are no different from the diagrams described above.

To create electric heating, three types of electric boilers are used:

electrode;
induction;
boiler using heating elements.

It is believed that a heating element boiler that has stood the test of time is more reliable. It is advisable to fill the system with softened water so that there is less scale on the heating elements. Electric boilers have high efficiency, but the main obstacle to their widespread use is the rising price of electricity.

Everyone dreams of such a home, which will be located at a considerable distance from the bustle of the city. But at the same time it is necessary to create the comfort that will be to the liking of every resident. First of all, you should take care of the heating system by making sure it is installed properly. Particular attention will have to be paid to the location of the boiler and the wiring of a certain heating wiring option in a private house for various conditions. Pros and cons of standard schemes, their use for different types of coolant circulation.

Beginning of work

When installing a heating system in a private home with your own hands, first of all you should pay attention to a thorough analysis of all the conditions under which operation will be carried out. The area of the heated premises, the choice of pipeline, its diameter and material, as well as the type of fuel will play no small role.

But the most important thing in this case, what every owner of a private home requires, is efficiency and an excellent level of heat transfer. Each room must be heated instantly and to the required temperature. For this purpose, not only the system itself is selected, but also the heating distribution in the house.

Types of heating systems

There are a sufficient number of heating systems that differ from each other according to various criteria. If we take the principle of coolant movement, they will be divided into:

When you have decided on a specific option, you need to pay attention to the wiring option. This is what most often plays a significant role in the functioning of the entire heating system.

Classification of wiring

Types of heating systems differ in circulation, number of pipe circuits and type of device. Various types of wiring and methods of connecting heat exchangers are used. Let's consider options for installing heating circuits in a private house, recommendations for laying pipes.

In any of the presented cases, you just need to know how to properly install the heating.

Pipe selection

Before installing heating in a private house, you should decide on the material of the pipes themselves. Each of the presented options has its pros and cons, which are worth paying attention to when purchasing.

The least popular is the steel version, including those made of stainless steel. This is due to the sufficient weight of the final structure, as well as the complex installation process with them. It will not always be possible to carry out the correct heating installation in the house with your own hands. You will have to hire a specialist to carry out welding work. In addition to this, cutting of connections (threads) will be required. This kind of heating work will take a lot of time.

Metal-plastic pipes cannot be considered the best option, despite the fact that they are very simple and fast. This is largely due to the operational period, when it is necessary to check all possible metal connections of the structure and, if necessary, tighten them. Therefore, it will be impossible to hide it, for example, on the floor. If, in addition to this, the temperature in the system constantly “jumps”, it will not be able to last long.

An excellent option, but not considered budget-friendly, would be copper pipes. They have significant advantages, including resistance to corrosion and a long service life. The difficulty lies not only in purchasing such an expensive product, but also in installation. To ensure the quality remains at its best, it is better to contact a specialist.

If we consider criteria such as efficiency and functionality, the best option would be to purchase pipes from a heating system in a private house. But when choosing, you should pay attention to the possibility of use in a heating system. A pipe with internal reinforcement made of aluminum or fiberglass is suitable here.

Single-pipe wiring

To begin work on installing a heating system with single-pipe wiring, it is best to purchase and install regulators on the batteries. They can be presented in the form of taps or valves. This will make it easier to distribute the water pressure in the system. In addition to this, a balancing valve is purchased, located on the pipeline itself.

There are two main options by which this correct heating installation in a private house is carried out. Is it horizontal or vertical. The first was popularly called “Leningradka”. To begin with, it’s worth focusing on a horizontal arrangement. As the name suggests, the pipeline should be located around the perimeter of all rooms. Installation can be done on top of it along the wall. Everything will depend on the preferences of the performer. The main thing is to maintain at least a slight level of inclination as it decreases from the heating boiler.

It is also used for private houses with several floors. But here you need to understand how to properly install heating in a house. A vertical riser is connected to the first radiator of the second floor. Even in this case, you can control the water pressure, as well as temperature conditions. For this purpose, a tap is inserted into the pipeline on each floor. The only disadvantage of using this wiring option is the need to purchase a pump that allows water to circulate in the system. You can, of course, do without it, but in this design the heat transfer will be reduced to minimum values. But even here you can do the wiring of the heating system yourself.

"Leningradka"

Everything happens differently when a single-pipe system is installed vertically. A pipe is laid in a vertical position in the direction from the attic. From it a kind of branch is made to each battery in the rooms. There is no need to use a pump here, since the method is considered gravity. After heating the water in the system, it rises to the top, and only then falls below. The main disadvantage is the need to purchase pipes with a large internal diameter. In addition, it will be almost impossible to hide such system components.

Two-pipe

For proper installation of a heating system with two-pipe wiring, two circuits should be installed: a pipe for supplying coolant to the radiators and returning it back for heating. To connect the radiators themselves, a parallel version is used. Due to this, it is possible to locate the lower pipeline layout, as well as independently adjust each component. If at the same time one of them is brought to the ideal, this will not in any way affect the performance of all the others.

These heating distribution options reduce the existing disadvantages of a single-pipe system, having reduced energy consumption and a higher degree of heat transfer. The entire area of the room will warm up evenly without temperature fluctuations.

Additionally, air vents are installed on, as well as a shut-off valve at the point where the hot medium is supplied. This allows you to control the temperature of each battery in the room and individually. There is no need to install shut-off valves on the return line.

This type of wiring cannot do without disadvantages, which manifest themselves in the consumption of materials during the installation of the heating system. After all, you will have to purchase double the number of pipes compared to the single-pipe option.

Collector wiring

A high-quality circulation pump must first be installed in the heating system. Only after this can the supply and return pipes be installed. If natural circulation is used, it will not be able to direct coolant through the system. Initially, for example, water is supplied to the collector, after which it is sent through all components, warming the air inside the premises of a private house.

Shut-off valves are used as a component, which must be located at any collector outlet. Despite the initial huge amount of money spent, everything will pay off soon. In addition, there are other advantages that these methods of heating in the house can boast:

If you look at the wiring structure of the heating system, you can come to the conclusion that it is a kind of two-pipe version. The only difference is the use of additional units and components during installation, which make the entire system more practical and economical.

This is manifested in excellent heat transfer from the batteries into the room, and energy consumption is significantly reduced. The payback period will take a significantly shorter period of time. These methods of heating distribution in a private home are being used more and more often.

Efficiency of a heating system with a circulation pump

The circulation pump plays a big role in individual heating systems. If you need to quickly heat the air in the rooms of the house, and the efficiency of the heating system must be high. The conversation is about heating devices - radiators, underfloor heating systems. The faster the radiator exchanges heat between water and air, the more efficient the entire heating system will be.

Pump installation diagram

In individual heating systems, we must ensure that the radiator, which has given off heat, does not itself cool down and the water leaving the radiator is not very cold. Otherwise, the boiler will wear out, and this is not good. This is where a circulation pump will help us, which will maintain water circulation. Which will allow the radiator to maintain the temperature and return the water not supercooled to the boiler.

In this case, a heating system with natural circulation is eliminated; it is ineffective. First of all, due to inertia, the speed of water directly depends on the temperature of the water. We wait until the water heats up and then cools down; here this is a slow and ineffective method.

We turn on the circulation pump and eliminate all natural blockages associated with temperature differences. Individual heating systems circulate any water - cold, hot - it all depends on how much it has time to cool or warm up. Water goes into the system and returns back at the same speed to the boiler.

What we have? Reduced fuel consumption in the boiler. Let's assume that the required coolant temperature is 65*. Individual heating systems, the water is cold, the boiler operates at maximum. The temperature rises, the water does not have time to cool completely in one pass through the heating system, the boiler goes into economical mode and maintains the temperature. If the output is 65* and the input is 60*, then in each radiator the top is heated to 64* and the bottom to 61* degrees. This way the radiators deliver full power, the boiler does not have to heat the water to 70*-75* degrees and above that spend additional energy. In this way we have the opportunity to set the temperature for each radiator separately. If we have a warm room and kitchen, then the temperature of the radiator can be lowered, and we will get additional savings. A circulation pump driving water through the heating system makes it convenient when you need to set the radiator to 35* degrees (a heating system with natural circulation is not possible) in the autumn and spring months, it’s cool but not cold.

Individual heating systems with a circulation pump, we lay small diameter pipes. Can you tell me what this will give us? It will save money on the purchase of pipes, reduce the amount of water in the heating system and reduce gas costs for heating water and heating speed.

Natural circulation

In all presented variants of heating systems with wiring, natural circulation can be used. It should have an expansion tank where the coolant will be located when the temperature rises. This in turn helps control its pressure level, eliminating damage to all equipment.

All components of the heating system are connected using top wiring. Only in this case will the coolant be able to be evenly distributed over the heating radiators and transmit the required temperature level inside the room. The slope of the pipeline will play a huge role here. It will be designed to supply direction for the coolant. Usually, during installation, an angle of 5 degrees is selected, which will be sufficient. Its advantages can be highlighted:

But all the shortcomings are much greater. The main thing is complexity. After all, here it will be necessary to create a constant slope along the entire length of the pipeline. It should be maintained for each linear meter. It cannot be used in private homes if the total area is more than 100 square meters. In the case of using metal pipes and radiators, over time, water as a coolant will lead to corrosion. At the same time, nothing else except water can be used in the heating system. Also among the disadvantages is the high consumption of pipes when heating wiring in this design is required.

(CO) future home. A huge amount of information is poured onto him from TV screens and advertising billboards about new heating methods, which are just marketing ploys of sellers. This publication will describe the working diagrams of heating systems in a private house, their pros and cons, and discuss issues of choice for a country house.

Varieties and methods

As you know, there are three main options for autonomous heating of your own home: water, air and electric systems. In practice, everything happens as follows:

If the building is located near the gas main, then the issue, as a rule, is resolved in favor of water heating with the installation of a gas boiler unit.
If it is not possible to connect gas, then most developers purchase solid fuel heat generators with a water circuit.
If it is impossible to install gas, and a solid fuel boiler is unacceptable due to the low degree of automation, then, for the most part, the same water heating system is installed, but complete with an electric heater.

And only when, for some reason, these options are not suitable, the developer chooses electricity, and even more so air, as a coolant. Why do most people choose water CO at home? Because this is the most proven and effective technology for solving the issue. But the efficiency of water heating depends not only on high-quality materials and equipment with high efficiency. It is very important to choose the correct wiring option. The installation of a heating system in a private house requires the presence of a strictly defined layout and connection of pipelines, radiators and other equipment.

Mounting options

Today, experts distinguish between two technologies for creating CO:

Scheme
In a private house, it involves connecting all batteries (input and output) to one pipe, which is both supply and return.
This technique has been used since the beginning of the last century. Some experts believe that this technology gained popularity after the Great Patriotic War, as an alternative when there was a shortage of materials. Although many experts predicted its abandonment back in the 70s of the 20th century, it is successfully used today.
- In a private house, water enters the batteries through one pipe and returns to the boiler unit through another.
This technology is considered the most modern, thanks to which it is possible to significantly increase the efficiency of CO operation, but requires more complex installation and hydrodynamic calculations. Despite this, today almost all apartment buildings, office and public buildings are equipped with CO made using this technology.

The choice of a private house depends on many factors: the area and architecture of the premises, the number of floors of the building, the equipment involved in the CO.

Single-pipe

This water heating scheme is a closed loop, which includes a boiler unit, a main pipeline, heat exchange devices (radiators, registers), and an expansion tank. In gravitational COs, coolant circulation occurs due to the different densities of heated and cooled water.

The principle of operation of heating with natural movement of water in the circuit is as follows: The coolant heated in the boiler rises along the riser, in the upper part of which an expansion tank is installed. After this, the water enters the accelerator, thanks to which the pressure necessary for circulation is created.

This CO distribution is not intended for multi-storey buildings and single-storey houses with a large area.

Advice: Regardless of the presence and height of the accelerating manifold, for good circulation of the coolant, it is recommended to create a slope of the main pipeline of 5°; on the supply branch to the radiators; on the return line - towards the boiler unit.

With mechanical circulation of water, there is no need for an accelerating manifold; its function is performed by a circulation pump. It is mounted on the return circuit, directly next to the boiler plant.

The figure shows a version of a single-pipe CO with horizontal distribution and forced circulation. This scheme is successfully used for one-story buildings, with the number of radiators 5-7 pcs.

Vertical single-pipe CO with overhead wiring, designed for buildings with several floors, is quite popular. May have the following implementations:

To answer the question of which heating system is more effective: one-pipe or two-pipe, it is necessary to study them in detail.

Two-pipe version

The main design feature of heating a private house with this method of execution is that each of the radiators is connected to a different pipeline: supply and return. This is what, according to many “professionals,” significantly increases the cost of the heating system. In fact, this design allows you to save on the number of shaped products and on the diameter of the main pipelines.

There are several schemes for implementing two-pipe heating:
- Horizontal.
- Vertical, with top wiring.
- Vertical, with bottom coolant supply.
In turn, the horizontal two-pipe design can have three implementations:

A. Dead-end or oncoming.
V. Poputnaya.
C. With radial distribution or collector.

Figure A shows the difference between a one-pipe heating system and a two-pipe one, despite the similar horizontal implementation.

Structurally, the simplest horizontal two-pipe circuit looks like this: A coolant supply pipe departs from the heat generator, which goes into each radiator. The cooled coolant from the batteries is removed through the second pipe - the return pipe, which returns it to the boiler unit.

Water circulation is ensured by a circulation pump; the expansion tank compensates for the expansion of the coolant when it is heated; the safety valve provides protection against high pressure in the circuit; shut-off valves on radiators serve to dismantle the latter; an air vent is required at the top point of the circuit to prevent airing of the system.

Horizontal types of CO are relevant for one-story buildings. Each of them has its own advantages and disadvantages:
- Dead-end wiring has a small consumption of expensive pipe. The disadvantage is the large length of the contour.
- Along the way, adjustment of the operation of the CO is easily realized. The disadvantage is the high consumption of material.
- In the manifold wiring, each heating device is connected to the boiler with its own pair of pipes, supply and return, which makes it easy to adjust the heating of a specific radiator. The disadvantage is the high consumption of pipes and their rather complicated installation.
Vertical two-pipe CO systems with lower and upper wiring have shown themselves to be excellent in two- to three-story private houses. With top distribution, the coolant rises through the supply pipeline to the highest point of the circuit, after which it is distributed along the return risers, passes through all radiators and returns to the boiler installation. The main advantage of the upper wiring is the creation of higher pressure in the circuit.

With vertical bottom wiring, the coolant is supplied from a line located under the floor of the lower floor or in the basement of the house. Next, the coolant moves along vertical risers and radiators installed on them. Rising to the highest point, the cooled water in the batteries flows through the return riser into the boiler unit. The advantage of this approach is the higher temperature of the coolant entering the radiators. The disadvantage is the possible airing of the circuit.

Choosing the best scheme for a private house

Now that we have a general idea about the types of heating and circuit connection options, it remains to decide what to choose, a single-pipe or two-pipe heating system?

There is an opinion that the former are more economical, easier to install and repair, and require fewer materials for sale. In fact, these advantages are quite controversial. For example, when such a CO operates, the end batteries on the branch receive coolant that has already cooled down in the previous ones. To maintain the required air temperature in the rooms located at the end of the circuit, it is necessary to increase the number of sections, and this is an additional cost. And all this against the background of the complete impossibility of automation, which will be responsible for maintaining the temperature balance necessary for comfortable living.

In a two-pipe system, the temperature of the coolant supplied to the batteries is the same, so there is no need to increase the number of sections of distant radiators in the circuit. The separation of the supply and return branches makes it possible to automate through the use of thermostatic valves.

Important! In fact, both one-pipe and two-pipe wiring have a right to exist. It should be understood that the choice is up to the developer, but only an experienced specialist will help you make the right choice of heating system for a private home.