Fix kitchen faucet. The kitchen faucet is leaking: how to fix it

Since kitchen taps are used much more often than bathroom faucets, there are more problems with them - failures, leaks and other breakdowns. In some cases, it is necessary to completely change the device. If the faucet in the kitchen sink is leaking, repairs can be carried out with the help of a mechanic or independently. Do-it-yourself repairs will require a little experience, tools and knowledge of the design.

Signs for repairs

Kitchen faucet repair is required under the following circumstances:

  • there is a leak from under the nut at the spout, as well as from under the handle, valve, when turned on;
  • malfunctions in the movements of the lever, for example, the inability to fix it or there is scrolling;
  • weak stream with high pressure in the water supply;
  • water dripping with the tap closed.

If any of the described symptoms appear, repairs must be carried out immediately in order to increase the service life of the device and prevent flooding.

Features of different types of mixers

In kitchens, it is more common and more practical to use traditional taps, with one or two levers. Common parts include the body, spout, aerator and sealing gaskets. The remaining parts are significantly different.

Double valves

This technique is classic and made very simply. Under the flywheel, which rotates when the water is turned on, there is a valve axle that performs a shut-off function. In devices where flywheels must be turned to stop and supply water, worm-type axle boxes are installed. They are based on rotating movements; the more you unscrew the valve, the more water will come out through the spout.

There are axle boxes with ceramic panels, with which you only need to make half a turn in the tap to supply water. When opened, the holes align and water flows through the spout. The cost of the axle box is low, you can always find it in a plumbing store and make a replacement.

Single lever types

A single-lever kitchen faucet is considered more fashionable and modern. With its help, pressure and temperature are regulated with only one lever. Water is mixed using a hollow ball or cartridge.

When using ball cutters, please note that they will have 3 holes. 2 inputs, where hot and cold water flows, 1 output - needed for draining into the sink. The mechanism itself rests on 2 rubber “saddles”, and by moving the lever you can set the desired water pressure and temperature. Fixation is carried out with a sealing collar and a nut for the stopper.

The main problem with seal failures is small specks and debris that are in the water pipes. To fix the problem, you need to disassemble the faucet and remove dirt.

Cartridge devices work in a similar way, but there is no ball mechanism inside. The internal design is significantly different. There are 3 holes, as in the first case, but inside the cartridge there are small ceramic disks, with the help of which the water supply can be adjusted. If such a device leaks, then the repair is almost no different from the ball type.

Causes of faucet leaks

Kitchen faucet leaks can have different types and causes. Among the main types are the following:

  • the appearance of water from under the gander. A common problem if there is a two-valve faucet. The reason is the wear of the gaskets, which fail when the water is turned on frequently. To replace it, just unscrew the nut, remove the gooseneck and install a new gasket or cut it out of rubber. When reassembling, do not tighten the nut tightly so as not to damage the base, especially if it is made of silumin;

  • valve leaking or inability to completely turn off the water. To solve the problem, the axle box assembly is replaced;

  • leak under the sink. Often the problem is hidden in the hoses that supply water to the tap or wear of the gasket at the connection points. Repair consists of the usual replacement of a hose or seal;
  • poor quality faucet. The problem appears very often, especially if a Chinese faucet is purchased. The service life is only a couple of years, after which it begins to leak;
  • incorrect installation or poor quality of work performed. The leakage problem is caused by improper selection of gaskets or poor connection of parts;
  • incorrect use of the mixer. Problems begin when turning the handles at a different angle or increasing the force on the levers.

If the mixer does not work well after a certain period of operation, and there are no obvious reasons, then the problem is hidden in limescale deposits on the parts. To solve the problem, you need to disassemble the device and completely clean it of salts using household chemicals.

The problem of leakage often appears when installing a new faucet, although this should not happen. In this case, there is room for defects and the product must be replaced under warranty. It is strictly forbidden to repair the device, as this will not allow for a replacement.

Do-it-yourself faucet repair

Before removing the faucet and repairing it, you need to prepare the tool. To do this you will need:

  • adjustable wrench or set of wrenches;
  • screwdriver;
  • parts for replacement, depending on the type of failure;
  • lubricant in the form of WD-40 to make it easier to unscrew parts;
  • pliers.

Regardless of the type of mixer, before starting work, you must turn off the water supply and drain the remaining residue from the system. After this, repairs can be carried out based on the design features of the mixer.

Single lever taps

The main principle of work is step-by-step execution of actions and accuracy. The execution steps are as follows:

  1. Using a small screwdriver or a knife, remove the plug on the mixer body.
  2. A screw will be visible in the hole that connects the lever and the adjustment rod. It is unscrewed using a hexagon.
  3. The lever is removed from the body, the protective casing is unscrewed, under which there is a clamping nut. It must be carefully removed with an adjustable wrench.
  4. For a ball device, there will be a sealing collar under the nut at the bottom; the ball is pulled out and inspected for cleanliness and deformations.
  5. The cartridge is removed from the cartridge tap and inspected for damage.
  6. The parts are replaced and everything is assembled in the reverse order.

There is no need to tighten the nuts very tightly so as not to cause deformation of the rubber bands for sealing and malfunction of the tap. For smooth running and longer service life, you can use silicone lubricant. For clarity of repairs, it is recommended to watch the video:

Double valves

The procedure for repairing faucets with 2 valves is almost the same, and how to disassemble it correctly is presented in the step-by-step guide:

  1. Pry off the plugs on the valve flywheel and remove them.
  2. Using a screwdriver, unscrew the fixing screw.
  3. Remove the flywheel to get to the axle box, unscrew the part counterclockwise and conduct a detailed inspection.
  4. The gasket of the worm gear is often damaged, so it must be replaced separately. The axle box with ceramics is replaced as an assembly.
  5. After completing the work, you need to reassemble the mixer in the reverse order.

In addition to a leaking faucet, there are other possible problems. For example, the degree of contamination of parts, namely the aerator, depends on the quality of tap water. Solid debris accumulates inside it, and when there is a lot of it, the pressure weakens significantly. To do this, you need to replace the part or simply remove it for cleaning.

If there is a crack in the product, then the mixer must be replaced completely. To temporarily solve the problem, you can seal the hole with sealant.

Complete replacement of the mixer

If it is impossible to repair the faucet and eliminate the leak, then you need to buy a new plumbing fixture and replace it. For this you need screwdrivers, keys and a container for water. Regardless of the faucet model, the replacement procedure is no different and looks like this:

  1. The first step is to remove the old faucet. To begin with, the water supply from the central system is closed, the valves on the tap are opened to completely relieve pressure and remove residues in the system.
  2. Open the flexible hoses from the supply pipes and drain the water in them into a bucket or basin.
  3. Disconnect the siphon from the sewer and, if desired, remove the sink; this will greatly simplify further work.
  4. Unscrew the faucet fasteners from the bottom of the sink, remove the product with hoses through the hole in the sink.
  5. To install new equipment, you should buy hoses and screw them to the mixer. It is important to ensure the presence of gaskets and their correct location.
  6. A sealing ring is placed in the faucet body to prevent water from getting under the cabinet.
  7. The hoses are inserted into the hole in the sink, and the mixer is fixed using a special plate. It is clamped with one bolt.
  8. If the sink has been removed, you need to fix it back and seal the joints with sealant.
  9. Connect the hoses to the pipeline, install a siphon and turn on the water supply valve.

After the work is completed, check the functionality and presence of leaks at all connections. More often it appears at the junction of the hose with the mixer or pipeline.

Prevention

Repairing a mixer may not always give good results; in some cases, a complete replacement of the device is required. Experts advise adhering to a few simple rules, with which the equipment will serve for a long time:

  • If possible, install filters for rough water purification to prevent the entry of debris and other dirt from the water supply;
  • if you install a filter to remove salts, the parts will be protected from lime, so you can forget about leaks and repairs for a long time;
  • The highest quality and most durable faucets are considered to be brass, while low-quality faucets are made of silumin. Often, cheap faucets are produced by Chinese and Turkish manufacturers;

  • single-lever designs are more modern and convenient, they are easier to repair.
  • To clean the body and other parts, it is better to use cream-like substances or gels that are suitable for the metal of the mixer. Do not use brushes or alkaline cleaning products;
  • to preserve chromium, all traces of detergents must be removed immediately with plain water;
  • Gaskets and other parts need to be changed once every 2-3 years, possibly more often. This preventative measure is much cheaper than replacing the entire faucet;
  • The valves must be opened and closed completely, but without effort.

Knowing what to do when a kitchen faucet leaks, you can replace parts or the entire faucet yourself. Often the described schemes are suitable for all appliances, including those in the bathroom. Before performing work, it is important to determine the cause of the leak, and when choosing new faucets, you should buy only high-quality products and not give preference to cheap products.

Of all the plumbing fixtures and devices installed in an apartment or house, the most frequently used category is probably the kitchen faucet. Cooking food, washing dishes, fruits or vegetables, taking water for drinking or boiling, carrying out wet cleaning in the kitchen, a lot of other small household needs - and all this falls on him. It is not surprising that sooner or later a moment comes when the intended operational resources of even the highest quality mixer are exhausted, and certain problems appear in its operation. The likelihood of such a situation will be even higher if at one time, for reasons of economy, an inexpensive mixer of dubious quality was purchased, and the water coming from the mains is not clean, or the condition of the water pipes does not stand up to criticism.

A malfunction immediately causes a lot of unpleasant problems that significantly complicate the normal functioning of the kitchen. What to do - call a plumber or run out and buy a new appliance? Do not rush - these are extreme measures, but first you can try to repair the faucet in the kitchen with your own hands. As practice shows, the overwhelming majority of the most common faults can be repaired. And in the process of restoring the mixer itself, there are usually no operations of such a high level of complexity that they would be inaccessible to the average apartment owner to perform independently.

What are the symptoms of mixer malfunctions?

What obvious and not so obvious signs will tell the owner that the condition of the kitchen faucet should be taken seriously?

  • There are always traces of dampness under the kitchen sink, and sometimes even a puddle accumulates. Such problems are the most dangerous, since they are often not noticed immediately, and the “signal” often comes from neighbors below who have a wet spot on their stream.
Dampness under the sink is a clear sign of some kind of malfunction

Of course, more likely the reason lies in a malfunction of the drainage system or poor sealing of the sink in the countertop.

How to fix kitchen sink drainage problems?

Emergency situations in the drainage system - enough common phenomenon, especially in the kitchen. Read what to do if it leaks in a special publication on our portal.

However, if the siphon is absolutely dry, and the gaps around the perimeter of the sink are properly sealed, then you need to look for leaks in the water supply - on the hoses themselves, at the point of their connection with the water pipes, or at the entrance to the mixer itself. Another possible reason is a poor fit or misalignment of the sealing gasket between the faucet and the sink.

  • Continuous drops or trickle of water from from liva when the mixer itself is in the “closed” position. This is a clear sign wear of seals or ceramic parts of the valve part.
  • A permanent puddle of water near the faucet body. Possible causes are cracks in the body or wear of the O-rings in the rotary spout block.
  • Water constantly, in any position of the mixer, leaks from under the valves or the adjusting lever. This may be a consequence of wear of the seals on the axle-box valves, insufficient tightening of the threaded couplings (nuts), cracks in the housing, or failure of the cartridge.
  • The rotation of the valves or the movement of the lever-handle is difficult, uneven, and difficulties arise in accurately adjusting the pressure and temperature of the water. This can be caused by the formation of limescale, the ingress of solid particles into rubbing parts, wear of mechanical components or their complete failure.
  • Insufficient pressure, when everyone the fact that at other water collection points in the apartment (house) there is no such problem. The reasons may be a clogged aerator nozzle, a decrease in the clearance of the internal channels of the mixer, pinched gaskets on the supply lines, poor passage of pipes or flexible hoses.
  • Similar reasons can cause strong noise or vibration with seemingly normal water pressure.

The procedure and features of self-troubleshooting techniques, depending on the type of mixer, can vary significantly. It is important to note the following - the vast majority of standard models can be repaired. However, if a complex modern device with thermostatic control or even with electronic touch control is installed, then taking the liberty of disassembling and searching for the causes of abnormal operation is still not recommended, especially when the mixer is still under warranty. In this situation, it would still be wiser to find a truly qualified specialist (most plumbers in advertisements are also in this matter hardly help), or contact customer service.

The author expresses the hope that this publication will help non-specialists understand the issues of installing and repairing a mixer, assess their strengths and make the right decision about the possibility of carrying out the work independently.

Find out how to solve the problems of a cramped bathroom from a new article on our portal.

Problems under the sink

As noted above, constant dampness or puddles under the sink may be a consequence of the emergency condition of the supply from the water pipes to the mixer.

To check the correctness of this assumption, it is necessary to close the mixer and allow the water to flow freely from the sink, so that there is no excess pressure in the siphon. There should be no moisture on the countertop around the sink. Then take a rag and wipe the siphon, supply hoses, and all connecting units - fittings, nuts, couplings dry. After a few minutes it will be possible to visually and to the touch check whether there are signs of water escaping under pressure in the water supply network.

  • Particular attention should be paid to the places where hoses are connected to the water supply - leaks often occur here due to corrosion of the edge of the threaded end of an old steel pipe.

The weak point is the connection of the flexible line with old steel pipes

If this is really the case, then the best choice would be to reconstruct the home water supply network - replacing it with polypropylene or metal plastic. But this is a large-scale undertaking, and in order to quickly eliminate the leak, you need to bring this connecting node into relative order.

By the way, the figure above shows a fundamentally incorrect connection between a flexible hose and a steel pipe. “Packaging” using FUM tape or tow is completely unnecessary. The hose nut must have a gasket that, when tightly fitted to the end of the pipe, completely prevents water from escaping. But winding can even seriously interfere with the normal sealing of this connection.

It is necessary to check whether the nut is tightened tightly and whether it is loose. However, great efforts should not be made when tightening it - you can squeeze the gasket, and the leak will become even worse.

If tightening does not help, close the general water supply tap to the apartment, unscrew the nut completely, drain the remaining water into a substitute basin and inspect the end of the pipe. If its edge is uneven and corroded, then there will not be a good seal with the hose. In this case, the best solution is to pack a factory-made extension adapter onto the thread (naturally, using FUM, or better yet, tow with a special paste like “Unipac”), the edge of which will ideally fit to the hose gasket.


The sealing material is tightly wound around the threaded part of the pipe in a clockwise direction. Then the adapter is screwed on and tightened tightly with an open-end or gas wrench. Now you can reconnect the hose, tighten the nut with moderate force, open the water supply and check for leaks. Most likely, everything will be fine.


  • The second option is that everything is dry at the connections, but you can clearly feel the appearance of water on the hose braid. Cause pretty common– alas, the quality of the hoses is very often low. It happens that the rubber tube located inside the braid breaks, and sometimes the metal ends give rise to cracks, especially if they are made of silumin.

In this case, you should not wait for the problem to develop, but immediately change the eyeliner to a new one. A small leak can suddenly turn into a complete rupture of the hose with all the understandable catastrophic consequences.

To replace the liner, most likely, you will have to temporarily remove the mixer - remove the old hoses and carefully tighten the fittings of the new ones into nests located on the lower end of the device body without dismantling it is extremely difficult, and in many models, simply impossible.

To dismantle the mixer, of course, first turn off the cold and hot water supply taps, release the pressure, then disconnect both flexible hoses from the pipes. Further actions depend on the type of faucet mounting. It's not difficult to figure this out.

— A very common fastening scheme is with studs (one or two), which are screwed into the body from the bottom of the mixer, and nuts that press a horseshoe-shaped plate with a rubber or polymer lining to the underside of the sink.


It is necessary to loosen and twist the nuts from the studs (sometimes during dismantling the stud itself is unscrewed - no big deal), and then pull the mixer up. For nuts, a 10mm wrench is usually used, but you need to be prepared for the fact that in practice you will find 11mm or even 9mm nuts.

After removing the mixer, you can immediately check the condition of the gasket ring between the body and the sink. Its unsatisfactory condition often causes leakage from the surface of the sink down through the mounting hole for the mixer. If the gasket is deformed, you should purchase a new one (it is shown with an arrow in the picture).

The studs usually have slots for a straight or shaped screwdriver. But you don’t have to rely on them too much when dismantling - to unscrew the fastener you will still need force with a wrench. You can use a screwdriver when reassembling the mixer - this will make it easier to fix the studs themselves into the body from the mixer.

— Another type of fastening - the lower part of the mixer itself has a cylindrical threaded part, which is inserted into the mounting hole of the sink, and then a powerful nut is screwed from below, securely fixing the device.


By the way, this design of the mixer sometimes allows you to unscrew the hoses without even dismantling the device itself. But this will not be easy to accomplish.

Imagine working in a very cramped space - under the kitchen sink, where it is almost impossible to find a comfortable position to wind the tool and apply sufficient force. And if there was also a leak at the place where the hoses were connected, then you can often find a generally sad picture when all the nuts are covered with a layer of oxides and limescale, and do not immediately yield to the force of the wrench.


Therefore, many craftsmen advise removing the sink to dismantle and reinstall the kitchen faucet. This is usually not difficult - just remember to disconnect the corrugated drain pipe from the sewer pipe.


Another “advantage” of this approach is that it becomes possible to “refresh” the seal between the sink and the countertop with a new sealant in order to completely eliminate the possibility of moisture getting downwards upon completion of the work. Well, the process of dismantling and installing the mixer will be easier and much better.

Failed hoses cannot be repaired or restored in any way - only replacement! And when choosing a new eyeliner, there may be several options:

— The same, but only high-quality hoses in a flexible metal braid. Be sure to measure the required length so that they are not “tight”, but also do not hang with unnecessary loops. On a pair of hoses, the fittings for connecting to the mixer should be of different lengths - this will facilitate installation.


— A more reliable option is modern corrugated stainless steel hoses. They are tougher and somewhat more difficult to work with. But in terms of durability and reliability, they significantly benefit.


More reliable - corrugated stainless steel hoses

— Some craftsmen prefer rigid liners made of metal-plastic pipes. For this, there are special fittings with fittings for transition to the corresponding pipe. You'll have to tinker a little longer, but you won't have to worry about this section in the future.


The procedure for reinstalling the mixer depends on its design.

— If it is fixed with studs, then the hoses are passed through the mounting hole of the sink, first a ring-shaped gasket is put on them, burying the joint between the mixer and the sink, and then the fittings are screwed into nests housings. It will be more convenient to tighten the short fitting first, and then the long one. The fittings have their own sealing rings, but still experts advise making a small winding on the thread - for reliability.

Then the studs are attached, the mixer is installed in the socket, and a gasket and a horseshoe-shaped strip are put on underneath. Now all that remains is to tighten the nuts tightly, while not forgetting to monitor the centering of the device in the center of the mounting hole and how the gasket ring fits.

— If the design of the mixer involves installing it on a nut, then it is better to insert and screw the fittings after fixing the device on the sink.

— The same is done if a rigid metal-plastic liner is planned. In this case, the curved fitting with the fitting is screwed in first, and then the straight one.

If everything is connected, then you can install the sink in place, not forgetting to seal the gap between it and the countertop.

Correct installation of the mixer is the key to its long-term operation

You can learn more about the nuances by reading a special publication on our portal.

And one more tip to finish with the “bottom” problems. If flexible supply hoses are preferred, then installing Aqua-Stop safety valves would be a very reasonable solution. They are packed onto water pipes (maybe instead of those same extension cords), and hoses are already connected to them.


Aqua-stop valve

If suddenly the hose Sun If it “explodes”, the valve will immediately shut off the water supply and prevent a flood. It's probably worth spending a little more to ensure safety.

Well, now let’s move on to considering problems with the mixer itself.

Problems from above - troubleshooting faucets

If it is obvious that the mixer is not working as required, water is oozing from it, it does not regulate pressure and temperature, the flywheels or lever turn with difficulty or, conversely, too easily, without blocking the current water, then problems should be looked for in the device itself.

General problems - water leaking through the faucet

The first reason is a housing defect.

— If the taps are working normally, but constant water leaks are visible on the body of the mixer, then with a high degree of probability we can assume that the body has cracked. It may be almost invisible to the eye, but for water it is enough. The reason may lie in the poor quality of the product, in the use of a fragile and corroding metal - silumin - in the manufacture, in excessive tightening of nuts or taps - this can cause the seat to burst, in mechanical damage to the device.

You need to carefully examine the body with a magnifying glass - this usually gives results. And if a crack is detected, then such a mixer can be considered practically unsuitable for further use. Repairing cracks with any composition, including “cold welding”, even if it gives results, but for a very short time and without a guarantee that a more serious accident will not happen at a time when the owners are not at home. The best thing is not to take risks, but to go for a new mixer.

Choosing a kitchen faucet is a responsible task

If circumstances force you to purchase a new faucet, try not to repeat old mistakes and purchase a truly high-quality device. – in a special publication on our portal.

The second reason for leakage is wear of the seals in the rotating spout block.

Kitchen faucets, as a rule, always have a spout that can be rotated around a vertical axis. It is clear that with prolonged use, the seals gradually wear out and begin to leak pressurized water from the housing to the outside.

The solution to this problem is to replace the gaskets (cuffs). And the operating procedure depends on the mixer model.

The easiest way to do a remo nt cmowner who has The spout is located on top and is attached to the body with a nut.


Carefully, so as not to damage the outer coating, use an adjustable wrench to loosen the nut, unscrew it, and the spout (or, as it is also called, the gander) is carefully gradually pulled out upward.


On the lower cylindrical part, in special grooves, there are rubber gasket rings - one or two (shown by red arrows). Above, directly under the nut, there is usually another ring - plastic (blue arrows). It is usually split, and does not take a direct part in the process of sealing the hinge - it rather acts as a centering, locking element, and to a certain extent also performs the function of a “sliding bearing”.

If there were leaks in this part, and the spout itself was loose, then all the gaskets should be changed, since they are definitely worn out. The plastic split ring also needs to be replaced.


These spare parts are literally “penny”, and they are easy to find in any plumbing store. It is recommended to take the removed spout with you in order to accurately select gaskets of the required diameter.

Before reassembling the parts, they must be cleaned of any traces of limescale or rust. When placing the rubber rings on the spout shank, be careful not to tear them. To make work easier, you can lightly coat the surface with silicone grease. The rings should fit snugly into their grooves. Place the split plastic ring and not difficult at all.

Once the new gaskets are on, the spout can be put back in place. But first you need to thoroughly wipe the inside of the seat with a soft cloth - there may be limescale or corrosion build-ups there. After cleaning, the shank is progressively, with a certain force, but carefully lowered into the socket until it stops, and then the nut is tightened. Then you can check the flow of the spout from left to right, and the absence of leaks when starting the water.

The situation is somewhat more complicated if the leakage comes from the joints of the swivel spout block in single-lever mixers (a typical leak location is shown by arrows in the figure).


Eliminating such a defect will require disassembling the entire device, which will be discussed below.

Problems in the mixer valve mechanism

The most common problems occur in the operation of the valves that regulate the flow of water into the mixing chamber. These breakdowns make themselves felt by leakage through the valves or the top of the mixer, the inability to completely shut off the water, the difficulty of rotating the flywheels or moving the lever, and unsatisfactory mixing of hot and cold flows. Elimination of defects depends entirely on the design of the mixer - there are many options.

Repair work with a two-valve mixer

The figure shows a schematic diagram of the design of most two-valve mixers.


The housing (item 1) has three socket holes. A spout-gander (item 2), which we have already dealt with above, is installed in the central one. Left and right in nests faucet axle boxes (item 3) of one design or another are screwed in - they are responsible for supplying and shutting off water to the mixing chamber. Rotation is transmitted to them through decorative flywheels (item 4). These flywheels (“wings”) are fixed to the tap stem with a screw (pos. 5), the head of which is closed with a protective cap (pos. 6), which also serves as a color indicator of cold or hot water.

If there are no cracks on the body of the mixers, then all the problems that arise are related to the fact or other defect of the axle-box crane. Some of them you can try to eliminate on your own, while others will require replacing this assembly.

First of all, you need to unscrew the valve axle boxes to determine their type.

To do this, first carefully pry off the protective plastic cap with a knife (for some models it may be on a thread - then it is carefully unscrewed).

Then use a screwdriver to unscrew the screw and, using a progressive movement, carefully remove the handwheel from the splines of the valve stem.


This allows access to hexagon of the valve, through which it will be possible to unscrew it from its socket. Sometimes behind the handwheel there is also a decorative cap that completely hides the tap. It must be carefully unscrewed - usually a hand is enough for this.


After this, the crane axle box itself is unscrewed with an adjustable wrench. Now it should be subject to revision.

Axle-box valves can be of two types - with a progressively moving rubber gasket-latch, or with ceramic plates. It is not difficult to distinguish them even with the mixer assembled - the first type requires several revolutions of the flywheel from the closed position to the closed position, and the second is limited to one revolution, a half, and sometimes even a quarter.

And axleboxes of both types can have both general problems and specific malfunctions. Let's look at it one by one.

  • The figure shows a box with a rubber valve, which is given translational motion when the handwheel rotates. Moving down, the valve closes the channel of water flow from the supply to the mixing chamber. And vice versa, the higher the gasket rises, the larger the “window” for the passage of water.

The arrows show the most vulnerable places where leaks most often occur.

1 – wear of the gasket on the valve itself makes it impossible to completely shut off the flow of water into the spout. This usually happens either from prolonged use or when the water is heavily polluted. Solid particles do not allow the gasket to completely block the channel; the user, naturally, tries to tighten the tap even more, thereby pressing these solid inclusions into the rubber. Eventually, from from Faucet leak - constant leakage. The solution in this case is simple - replace the gasket with a new one.

The rubber band itself is held on the rod with a screw (for a screwdriver or, as in the picture, with a hex head), and is protected around the circumference from bursting by a metal shell.

— It is necessary to unscrew the locking screw.


— Then the rubber gasket is pryed off with a thin screwdriver or knife and removed from the shell.


— A new gasket purchased according to the sample is installed in place and secured with a screw.


— After this, you can install the crane axle box in place.

2 – wear of the rubber sealing ring leads to water leakage through the threaded connection of the mixer body and the faucet box at high pressure of open water. This happens infrequently, but it can be eliminated quite easily - by replacing the ring. Etc There is no need to listen to anyone, and in no case should you “pack” the tap with FUM tape or tow - most often this extreme leads to the fact that the nest is damaged T t crack, and after that the entire mixer can only be thrown away.

3 and 4– wear of the internal seals of the valve axlebox. This is accompanied by water leakage in the area of ​​the rod, near the flywheel. In this case, the kinematic mechanism of the crane usually suffers - it begins to jam, it is difficult to turn, etc. The optimal solution is a complete replacement of the axle box crane. There are, of course, certain restoration technologies - packing a new oil seal, boring and lapping the screw drive. However, this, firstly, is not possible on all models, and secondly, even the highest quality crane axle boxes are not so expensive to resort to such complex restoration work.

Flaw 2 is equally inherent in axle boxes with a ceramic plate valve, which will now be discussed.

  • Axleboxes with a ceramic valve are designed differently.

Blue arrows show stationary parts, green arrows show moving parts.

1- housing in which the entire mechanism is assembled. It has a threaded part for screwing into the mixer socket.

2 – rotary rod with its own sealing rings. Rotation from the rod is transmitted to the movable ceramic plate (item 3). On given It is not visible in the figure, but when assembled, a fluoroplastic gasket is placed in the upper part between the rod and the body, which plays the role of a thrust sliding bearing.

A second ceramic plate (item 4) is fixedly installed in the lower part of the housing. When assembled, it is tightly ground to the movable one. Turning the rod leads to the alignment of the figured cutouts (windows) on the plates - this opens the flow of water. Depending on the combined area, the pressure becomes greater or less. The tap is closed. the windows are diametrically opposite position.

When installed in the mixer, the lower part of the axle box fits tightly to the round feed channel due to the ring silicone gasket (item 5).

When assembled, the axle box is held in place by a locking bracket (item 6) or a washer (depending on the model - a special groove is made in the rotating rod for this clamp. There are clamps in the form of a small threaded rod with a slot for a screwdriver.

To repair axle-box cranes of a similar design, you can find special repair kits - the main thing is that they fit a specific model. What could be the reasons for the crane axle box not working properly:


A– wear or deformation of the silicone gasket on the bottom. When the tap is closed, water continues to flow into the spout. Must be replaced.

b– wear of the sealing ring at the junction of the tap and mixer (exactly Also, as on a tap with a rubber valve).

V– one of the most common reasons is the depletion of the fluoroplastic plate. The tight fit of the rubbing parts (ceramic plates) to each other is disrupted, and when closed, the water does not completely shut off. The defect is easily checked - if you press the axlebox rod from above while water is oozing, the flow stops. Eliminated by replacement fluoroplastic rings for new ones.

G– two sealing rings on the rod prevent water from flowing upward from the body. Wear will make itself felt by leaking water in the flywheel area. To be replaced.

d– abrasive wear of adjacent surfaces of ceramic plates. This doesn’t happen often – plumbers claim that ceramic parts are “the last to go.” A possible reason is heavily polluted water with solid inclusions. The faucet does not hold water and rotates unevenly and with force. If the repair kit contains plates, then they are also easy to change.

The process of overhauling and repairing the crane axle box is shown in detail in the video:

Video: how to repair a ceramic faucet axle box

Well, if it was not possible to find the required kit, you will have to change the crane axlebox completely.

If you need to replace a crane axle box, then to purchase a new one it is best to take the dismantled one with you to the store. The diameter of the landing thread, the installation length of the entire assembly, and other design features are important here. (for example, threads for installing a decorative cap on top) and so on . If desired, you can replace taps with rubber valves with “ceramics” and vice versa. And one more thing - to select an axle box, it is advisable to take the handwheel (lamb) to the store. It happens that the splines of the new axlebox rod do not coincide with the old flywheel.

Before reinstalling the tap, you must thoroughly wipe the seat with a clean cloth - there shouldn't be small debris, limescale - anything that can interfere with the normal screwing and tight fit of the gaskets.

When installing a new axlebox, do not use excessive force - you can damage the body from the mixer or compress the gaskets. It is best to do this - with the water supply closed, the tap is screwed into the socket until it stops by hand. Then the supply is opened, and the tap is carefully turned with a key until water stops coming out from under it.


After this, you can put the decorative cap (if provided), the flywheel in place, fix it with a screw and close the hole with a plug of the corresponding color.

After carrying out these steps, the two-valve mixer should work normally.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ceramic cartridge

If problems arise with a single-lever mixer, then there may be two completely different options. Thus, the device may have a valve device in the form of a cylindrical cartridge with ceramic plates inside, or a spherical water flow switch.

First, let's look at the cartridge option.

The problem makes itself felt by the impossibility of blocking the flow from from leakage when the lever is completely lowered, water seeping through the top of the mixer, excessively light or, conversely, difficult movement of the lever with unsatisfactory mixing quality.

The best solution is to replace the cartridge with a new one. Doing it yourself is not as difficult as it might initially seem.

The schematic diagram of a mixer with a cartridge is shown in the figure:

1- metal body with mixer.

2 – cartridge.

3 – clamping fixing nut that holds the cartridge in a tightly pressed position in the body. Usually it is buried on top with a decorative cap (item 4).

5 – mixer handle, fixed on the plastic lever of the cartridge with a screw (item 6)

7 – swivel spout. The tightness of this moving unit is ensured by two o-ring gaskets (item 8), and the smooth running is ensured by fluoroplastic rings (item 9) acting as sliding bearings.

10 – flow aerator located at the end of the spout. To seal its installation, a gasket (pos. 11) is used.

In order to replace the cartridge, work is performed in the following sequence:

IllustrationBrief description of the operation performed
The picture shows a set of tools that may be needed to replace the cartridge.
The first step is to carefully pry up and remove the plug that covers the hole for access to the screw securing the handle. Sometimes the plug and screw, in some models, are located at the top of the handle - this is easy to determine.
If the repair is carried out without removing the mixer from the sink, it is recommended to close the drain hole - small parts really “like” to fall into it.
Try shining a flashlight into the opened hole to determine which head has the retaining screw. There may be a straight screwdriver, a curved screwdriver, or a hexagon screwdriver.
Use a suitable wrench or screwdriver to loosen this screw.
There may be surprises here - it does not always give in immediately, especially if water has leaked through the top of the mixer. Using brute force is not recommended, as you can tear off the splines, and removal can become a really big problem.
It's best to try spraying the screw with WD-40 and letting it "go away."
After the screw is loosened or unscrewed, the handle is carefully removed from the cartridge lever upwards.
The next task is to unscrew the decorative cap.
It usually yields to hand force. If not, then you can try to move it out of place with a gas wrench or pliers, but only very “gently”, trying not to scratch the coating or deform the thin metal.
After removing the cap, the retaining clamp nut will open.
Using an adjustable or regular open-end wrench of the required size, the nut is unscrewed counterclockwise...
... and is pulled up, completely releasing the cartridge.
The cartridge is now very easy to remove simply with your fingers, without resorting to any tool.
Do not rush to throw away the dismantled old cartridge - you will need it to purchase a new one.
The fact is that there are many models of different standards, differing in diameter, height, channel arrangement, etc. But it won’t be difficult to find a new one in the store based on the sample.
Before installing a new cartridge, you must thoroughly clean the cylindrical cavity inside the case with a soft cloth - there should be no rust, lime deposits, or small particles left there.
Installing a new cartridge correctly is not difficult, since almost all models have centering protrusions that must coincide with the corresponding recesses in the body.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. Again, it is necessary to warn you that you should not use excessive force when screwing the fixing nut, as this can deform the cartridge body or the rubber seals located underneath. It's best to give it a short puff, then turn on the water and check to see if it's coming into the sides of the cartridge. If a leak is detected, slowly tighten the nut until the leak stops.

You can immediately focus on the already mentioned leak in the swivel spout block. The cartridge is here - absolutely nothing how, and the problem is caused by wear of the sealing rings (in the diagram above - item 8). Some models use cuffs instead of rings - this will be visible after disassembly.

To replace the seals, the mixer will have to be disassembled even further in order to remove the rotating spout block from the body. Options may vary depending on the mixer model. So, it happens that this unit is removed upwards - locked with a special cylindrical coupling. But still, more often it is removed in the direction of connecting the supply hoses. For disassembly, in this case, it is impossible to avoid completely dismantling the mixer from the sink (how this is done is already described above).

  • A ring-shaped lock nut will be visible from below. Unscrew it - a fluoroplastic ring will be revealed under it.

  • Carefully, so as not to damage it, it is removed, and then the entire rotating spout block is removed from the body downwards.
  • Now we get to the gaskets (as shown in the diagram above) or cuffs (see picture below).

  • These seals will have to be replaced by purchasing new ones based on the sample in the store. At the same time, you can check the condition of the fluoroplastic rings at the top and bottom - perhaps they are also already very worn.

Some craftsmen practice winding to restore the sealing properties of these seals. But still, the optimal solution would be to completely replace them.

Assembly is carried out in reverse order. At the same time, do not forget to install fluoroplastic rings on top and bottom of the rotating block.

Repair of a single-lever mixer with a ball switch block

Not all single-lever faucets have the cartridge discussed above inside - many of them are equipped with a ball-shaped valve assembly. A typical design diagram of such devices is shown in the figure:


Top down:

The mixer handle (pos. 1), fixed with a screw (pos. 2), which is covered with a cap (pos. 3).

Below is a metal cap (item 4), which secures the entire valve mechanism in the mixer body. Under it there is a plastic cam with a shaped washer (item 5) - they limit the movement of the ball lever in a certain range. The washer has a dome-shaped bottom and a rubber seal around the circumference for a tight fit to the ball.

The mixing ball itself (item 6), hollow inside, has holes for the passage of water from the liner and exit into the rotary spout block.

From below, rubber valve seats (pos. 7) fit tightly to the ball, which are constantly pressed against its surface by springs (pos. 8).

The design of the mixer below is no longer fundamentally different from that discussed above - a rotary spout block (item 9) with grooves (item 10) for sealing rings (item 11). The entire structure is assembled in a brass body (item 12). An additional aerator (item 13) can also be located inside, providing better mixing of water before being supplied to the spout.

We will not consider problems with spouting - they are practically no different from what has already been stated above. Let's just focus on repairing the valve mechanism.

  • Removing the mixer handle is almost the same. The only difference is that the lever on which the handle is attached not rectangular polymer, like a cartridge, but in the form of a metal pin with a groove for a fixing screw.
  • To disassemble, you first need to carefully unscrew the top cap. It may have slots on the outside for gripping with a key, or four grooves on the top inside. Of course, it would be better to use a special key. But if it is not there, then the cap is removed from its place, carefully knocking it counterclockwise against the groove with a screwdriver. Another option is to insert round nose pliers into the grooves from the inside.
  • When the cap is removed, remove the cam with the washer. You can immediately remove any existing dirt or deposits with a soft cloth.
  • Then the ball itself is taken out and the entire valve part is carefully examined.
Valve part with the ball removed - top view

The reasons for malfunction may be the following:

  • The upper dome washer is dirty or worn (orange arrow). Occurs infrequently, usually eliminated by simply cleaning the surface. The spherical seat for the ball in the body itself is checked in the same way - it also needs to be cleaned.
  • Wear of the ball itself (green arrow) - cracks, grooves, etc. It can only be eliminated by replacing it with a new one.
  • Wear or deformation of the valve seats (blue arrows) - they do not fit tightly to the surface of the ball and begin to leak water. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.
  • Weakening and sagging of the springs (red arrows) do not ensure that the seats are tightly pressed to the ball. Eliminated by replacing with new ones.

If you purchase a repair kit, then repairs are easy.

  • Using a thin screwdriver, remove the old valve seats. Then the springs are removed in the same way.

  • After thoroughly cleaning the mixer cavity, begin assembly in the reverse order.
  • Springs are inserted into the new seats, and then this assembly is carefully placed in the socket until it stops.
  • A thin layer of silicone grease is applied to the cleaned surface of the ball. Then it is installed in the body so that the limiting protrusion on the body fits into the figured groove on the ball.
  • Next, a plastic assembly is installed - a shaped dome washer and a cam. It’s difficult to make a mistake here, since there is a groove in the body, and a corresponding protrusion on the cam.
  • The upper metal cap is attached and screwed on.
  • The mixer handle is placed on the stem and secured with a screw.

At this point, the repair of the faucet with a ball valve can be considered complete.

For greater clarity - disassembly and assembly of a mixer with a ball valve in the video:

Video: disassembling a mixer with a ball valve mechanism

Aerator clogged

Another common problem with the operation of the mixer is poor pressure when the taps are fully open. The problem is usually a clogged flow aerator located at the end of the spout.

Fixing such a problem is very simple.

First you need to unscrew the aerator itself. He can even succumb to the force of his hand. If not, don’t worry, it has two slots for winding the key.


Inside, there will probably be an accumulation of solid impurities that interfere with the free passage of water. They can be washed off by directing a powerful pressure from the back of the mesh.


If this measure does not help, then you can disassemble the aerator by carefully lifting the plastic mesh upwards. Small particles may have entered the cavity of the device and clogged the holes. You will have to work with a needle or toothpick to clean them.

It often happens that the blockage becomes “fatal” and cannot be cleaned mechanically. There is nothing to do - take the removed aerator for a sample and purchase a new one.


They are not that expensive, and you can easily afford periodic replacement. But if this situation occurs often, then it is worth thinking about the fact that the quality of tap water is extremely low, it is oversaturated with solid inclusions, and requires the mandatory installation of at least mechanical filters.


Find out, and also read useful recommendations, from our new article.

This preventive measure will ensure longer operation of the entire mixer as a whole - suspended particles will not have an abrasive effect on rubber and silicone seals and on the ceramic plates of the valve mechanism.

Single-lever faucets are a new trend in the design of a modern bathroom or kitchen. The standard herringbone faucet and wall-mounted faucets are losing their popularity against the backdrop of such a functional and stylish analogue. A single-lever (or joystick) faucet is a body with a plate in which cold and hot water are mixed. The plate acts as a lever. This design can be made of ceramic, metal or plastic.

If the joystick mixer fails, it must be disassembled and any problems resolved. To eliminate them, you need to know the types of “one-armed” mixers, as well as the principles of working with them.

Types and features of single-lever mixers

Exist 2 types o bottom lever taps:

Advantages and disadvantages of joystick mixers

Single lever faucets have become popular due to convenience and ease of use. With the help of such mixers, water is quickly regulated to the desired temperature by moving the lever to the right or left. To increase or decrease the water pressure, the joystick is adjusted from top to bottom. In addition, single lever taps demonstrate long service life. This is due to the fact that in the design of such faucets there are no rubbing elements made of metal, as well as rubber gaskets between the moving parts of the faucet.

The disadvantages of a ball valve are: rapid wear of rubber seals. Therefore, to avoid breakdowns and clogging of the mixer, it is recommended to replace these parts every 2 years. Failure of a single-lever faucet can occur if abrasive elements (for example, sand) enter it along with water. This is why it is so important to install special filters to prevent clogging.

Some cheap models of cartridge faucets are difficult to set a comfortable temperature within 35 - 41 degrees. This is due to the fact that inexpensive analogues of such mixers have a small angle for adjusting the water temperature. This design does not allow for precise adjustment, which is not inferior in accuracy to faucets with a ceramic faucet. But disk models from well-known brand manufacturers have wide angle settings up to 15 degrees, which allows you to quickly and easily obtain the required water temperature. This functionality is achieved due to the special design and high-quality material of the parts.

How to properly disassemble a disk mixer

If the plates in the faucet sleeve break, it is necessary to disassemble the mixer. To do this you will need the following tools: screwdriver and hex wrench.

Instructions:

Tip: before buying a new cartridge for the mixer, you need to take with you the old disk that has already failed. The thing is that cartridges can have different hole diameters (3 or 4 cm) and latches on the bottom plate of the cartridge. Therefore, there is a risk of purchasing a larger or smaller disk. Also, when choosing a new cartridge, you need to pay attention to the disk with a silicone gasket, since it is less susceptible to water.

How to properly disassemble a ball mixer

This type of single lever faucet is as easy to disassemble as a cartridge faucet. It should be borne in mind that if a serious breakdown occurs, you will have to replace the entire mixer. If the malfunctions in the operation of the faucet are insignificant (for example, when the faucet is turned on at full power, the flow of water is weak), you need to disassemble the faucet and repair it yourself. The cause of such a breakdown may be a clogged faucet. abrasive substances.

Instructions:

  1. Remove the nut from the faucet spout.
  2. Pull out the mesh, rinsing it with water.
  3. Place the nut and screen back into the mixer.

If the tap is leaking, it is necessary replace rubber seals for new ones. To do this you will need: a screwdriver and a hex key.

Instructions for replacing the rubber seal:

  1. The screw is unscrewed and the lever is removed.
  2. The connection is removed from the thread, then the screw is unscrewed with a screwdriver. Usually plaque collects on it, which needs to be removed with a cloth.
  3. The rubber seals are removed and replaced with new ones. The ball is also removed.
  4. After replacing the gaskets, the ball is installed in its place. The seals are secured with a plastic nut.
  5. The lever is installed and the screw is fixed. Finally, you need to check the operation of the mixer system by opening the tap. There should be no water leaks.

Prevention of breakdowns of a single-lever mixer

In order for joystick taps to serve for a long time, it is necessary:

Knowing the diagram and operating principle of single-lever mixers, you can independently repair a failed joystick tap.

How to repair a faucet (video)

Repairing a cartridge faucet

Most often, a ball valve is installed in the kitchen. It is convenient and simple, works flawlessly. Turning one knob is much more pleasant than turning two valves. In addition, the design of the ball valve also determines its reliability - it is simple and devoid of unnecessary parts that can fail at the wrong time.

The ball type mixer is very simple and easy to use.

Before repairing the faucet with your own hands, it is important to know its structure

The faucet must be disassembled with extreme care to avoid damaging anything.

However, the ball valve breaks sooner or later and begins to leak. And here you have to deal with an unpleasant thing - a design feature of the ball valve that determines its reliability at the same time and makes it difficult to repair it yourself. The fact is that the mixer mechanism is non-separable and the most important mechanisms are included in a cartridge that cannot be disassembled. If one part fails, the entire cartridge will have to be replaced.

Let us now take a closer look at other ball valve failures:

  • Hull cracks;
  • Failure of gaskets;
  • Cartridge clogged.

Case cracks can be repaired with your own hands only if the crack is small. In this case, you can use a sealant. This will stop the leak for a while.

If the gaskets are worn out, they must be replaced:

  • Shut off the water supply;
  • Remove the mixer by unscrewing the inlets and the nut securing it;
  • Replace the gasket;
  • Reassemble the mixer.

If the cartridge is clogged, there is nothing you can do about it yourself - you will have to replace the entire cartridge. To do this, after shutting off the water and draining the water, remove the mixer. Next, the decorative plug is removed, the lever is removed and the cartridge is removed. The old cartridge is thrown away and a new one is installed in its place. Next, the crane is put back together.

If the mixer body bursts, its replacement is inevitable.

Sometimes the cause of malfunction and difficult water supply is a clogged aerator. Repairing such a fault with your own hands is not at all difficult. You need to unscrew the aerator and open the tap - if the water starts flowing with the same force, then the problem is definitely in the aerator. In this case, the aerator is washed, freed from debris and put back on. Sometimes the aerator is already completely destroyed. Then it is replaced with a new one.

If water stops flowing from the shower, but flows fine from the tap, then the spool gaskets are most likely worn out. If the top gasket fails, you don’t even need to remove the mixer. Simply remove the shower hose and change the gasket. If the problem persists, then the problem is in the bottom gasket and you will have to remove the mixer yourself.

Before removing any tap, the water supply must be interrupted.

Repairing faucets in the kitchen and bathroom yourself is not difficult. And it doesn’t even require experience in plumbing work or special knowledge of mechanisms. All work can be done quickly using the most accessible tool available in any home - a knife and a screwdriver.

What a mixer is in general, no one needs to be told; everyone knows for sure that this is a device with which cold water is mixed with hot water and supplied for various needs in the kitchen or bathroom. Over its history, humanity has experienced many types and types, as well as models of faucets. Today, the most popular and in demand are faucets with a single control lever, which can be used to set the desired pressure and required water temperature.

When asking for similar devices in a store, or planning to repair a single-lever kitchen faucet with your own hands, you may find that they also have other names. Such plumbing equipment can also be called mono-command, and in everyday life many people generally call it a joystick. Such joysticks owe their popularity to their reliability and long service life, since their internal parts practically do not rub against each other, they are made of metal and ceramics, and the rubber gaskets that are there are easily replaceable.

A single-lever device consists of several parts fastened together. In order to figure out how to repair a mixer tap with one handle, you will have to become a little more familiar with its design.

  • Regulator (knob, lever) for water pressure and temperature.
  • Nut or washer for fixing the main rod.
  • A cartridge or a special ball-shaped valve with holes and grooves that provides mixing of water flows.
  • Rubber gaskets (seats) to prevent leaks.
  • The tap tube is threaded on one side and with a screwed-on aerator filter (mesh) on the other.
  • Various cuffs and washers for screwing to the sink or sink and an adjustment ring to hold the structure together.

The principle of operation of such mixers is quite simple and understandable, if you look at it. There is already an article on our website about how it works, as well as exactly how to disassemble a single-lever mixer. In a nutshell, water enters the cartridge through two holes, after which it pours out, already mixed together. By moving the internal element (ball or cartridge) using the lever, you can select different positions of the holes and grooves that are responsible for supplying colder or hotter water.

It happens that faucets fail, then there is no way to do without repairs. The easiest way is to turn to a real professional plumber, who, just by looking at the problem, most often can make a “diagnosis”, name the cause of the breakdown and methods for resolving it. But such services are not available to everyone and not always.

  • The cartridge system is considered more reliable because this element is made of ceramics or a special polymer, which very rarely fails, and even then due to manufacturing defects. However, it is more expensive and tends to become clogged with solid particles, for example, sand, clay or rust from the water supply.
  • The ball mechanism will be cheaper, but is made of metal, so it is susceptible to some corrosive phenomena, oxidizes, and due to its shape, it can accumulate limescale on the surface, which will have to be cleaned regularly.
  • Ball or cartridge seats, which are rubber gaskets, can also fail due to solid impurities in the water or substances dissolved in it. Then the gaskets can become deformed and even harden, which will certainly lead to failure of the entire mixer.
  • Overtightened nuts and washers can also lead to damage, and the mixer may jam or even jam. But loose twists also do not bring anything good, since they also have a detrimental effect on the performance and durability of the system.
  • Cracks, chips or manufacturing defects on the mixer body usually lead to leaks; this is a fairly common breakdown that should never be forgotten about, otherwise it’s no wonder you’ll flood your neighbors.

But the most important, main cause of breakdowns of all types of faucets, both single-lever and other, is hard water, which is present in our water supply. Over time, various substances settle on gaskets and internal surfaces, “sticking” to nuts, screws and washers, preventing them from functioning properly.

We have already figured out the basic structure, as well as the cause of possible breakdowns of the faucet; all that remains is to find out exactly what “symptoms” of breakdowns can cause a quick response, after which it is already possible and necessary to repair a single-lever kitchen faucet. There may be many signs that it’s time to pick up a screwdriver and wrench, but it doesn’t hurt to study the main ones and keep them in mind.

  • When the faucet leaks or drips or flows from under the lever.
  • If the lever is in the closed position and water is still dripping or flowing from the spout.
  • When the stream of water is excessively thin, but there are no visible reasons for this, and the pressure in the water supply system remains good.
  • If the control lever does not move smoothly, jerks, sticks, or does not reach its extreme points, then you should think about repairs as soon as possible.
  • If when you open the tap you hear a strange, somewhat whistling hum, then it definitely smells like kerosene and you need to think about prevention and repair.

Before you start repairing a single-lever kitchen faucet, you need to take care to completely cut off the possibility of leakage and flooding of neighbors. To do this, you need to turn off the common taps in the apartment or house, if any. If there are none, then you will have to connect the housing office, asking to turn off the entire riser, otherwise trouble cannot be avoided.

In order to repair a single-lever faucet, you will most likely have to purchase the necessary spare parts. Ball systems most often require replacement of gaskets and seats (rubber or silicone), on which the ball mechanism sits. In cartridge designs, gaskets, couplings and cuffs can also fail, but more often the entire internal ceramic element needs to be replaced, or at least washed and cleaned. But in addition to storerooms and consumables, you will also need tools, otherwise you won’t be able to do anything.

  • Wrenches, adjustable wrenches, sockets and hexagons.
  • The screwdriver is shaped and flat, powerful, with a fairly long handle.
  • Pliers or pliers.
  • An ordinary knife with a sharp edge.
  • Hammer.
  1. Remove the mixer handle. It's not much different from a cartridge faucet.
  2. After removing it, we take out the cam with the washer. You can immediately clean it of all rubbish. It won't be redundant.
  3. Next we take out the ball itself and inspect it carefully. First, let's look at the top washer; you just need to clean it. If the ball itself looks worn out, then only replacement will help. If the springs do not press the seats against the valves well, then it is worth replacing both. It's not very difficult. You hook them with a screwdriver and take them out.
  4. Well, that’s basically it. The problem may also be due to limescale deposits or wear of mechanical components.
  5. Weak pressure? The gaskets on the supply lines may be pinched, or there may be poor passage of pipes or hoses. It’s also worth mentioning the aerator, this is a mesh at the end of the tap. If something is not very good with the flow of water, then you should remove this mesh and clean it, this is done very simply, you can use a needle, or you can use strong pressure of water. If anything, then it can be changed, their price is low, so you can afford to replace them sometimes. However, if a similar situation occurs often, then this makes you think that it makes sense to install at least mechanical filters. This will greatly extend the operation of the device and the life of the sink.

How to understand that a faucet needs repair

As a rule, each of us opens and closes the water in the kitchen several dozen times during the day, but almost no one counts these times. Such movements place a very heavy load on the mixer, which on average is designed for a million such movements, but with frequent opening and closing it is also prone to breakage.

In the kitchen, the faucet is used much more actively than in the bathroom, so it breaks down much more often. In rare cases, the only solution to the problem that has arisen is to buy a new device and invite a plumber; in other cases, you can handle it yourself. By deciding to repair a kitchen faucet yourself, you will save on the services of a specialist and gain important experience. You just need to arm yourself with theory and tools.

Kitchen faucet repair - when and why it is necessary

Your kitchen faucet needs repair if you experience the following “symptoms”:

  • Leakage from under the nut at the water outlet, from under the handle (lever) or mixer valves in working condition.
  • The correct movement of the lever or valves is disrupted (they stick, turn, do not lock in the desired position, etc.).
  • At normal water pressure in the system, the jet is not powerful enough.
  • Water drips from a closed tap.

Please note: the detected problem must be resolved as quickly as possible! This will extend the service life of the mixer and protect yourself and your neighbors from flooding, saving money, time and nerves.

The problem that raises the most questions is a leaking faucet. And here you need to know the “enemy” not only by sight, but also from the inside. We are talking about the design of mixers.

Design features of the main types of kitchen faucets

Such delights as thermostatic and touchless faucets are good for bathrooms. In the kitchen, more practical models - traditional two-valve and single-lever - are fighting for a place in the sun. The common elements for them are: body, spout (spout), aerator, sealing gaskets. Otherwise they differ significantly.

Installation of two-valve taps

Faucets with two valves that are familiar to the eye are designed quite simply. Under the flywheel, which you turn when operating the structure, there is a crane-axlebox - its locking element. Below is the design of such a kitchen faucet in pictures.

Axleboxes in a two-valve mixer (sectional view)

In products where several revolutions of the flywheel are required to supply or shut off water, worm axle boxes are installed. Their work is based on rotational-translational movements. The more you unscrew the valve, the further the axle box gasket will move away from the so-called “saddle”. The consequence of this is the flow of water into the internal cavity of the mixer, and then into its spout (spout).

Worm worm valve axle box for mixer

In models where it is enough to make only half a revolution to supply water, axle boxes with ceramic plates are installed. When you open the tap, the holes in them coincide and water flows into the spout.

Crane axle boxes with ceramic plates

The cost of faucet axle boxes is low, they are always available in plumbing stores, and their replacement is extremely simple.

Design and types of single-lever mixers

More modern and practical are models of faucets with one handle (lever) that regulates pressure and temperature. Mixing water in them is carried out in a hollow ball with three holes or in a special cartridge.

The mixing element in ball models has three openings, two of which are inlets - designed to supply hot and cold water to this miniature container, and one outlet - for supplying water at a given temperature to the sink.

Ball mixer device

The ball itself is located on two rubber “saddles”. Its displacement relative to them, carried out when the lever moves, allows you to regulate the pressure and temperature of the water being poured out. The ball is secured at the top with a sealing collar and a lock nut.

Schematic structure of a ball model of a kitchen faucet

The operating principle of a mixer with a cartridge that replaces a ball is similar. At the same time, their internal structure is fundamentally different. There are still the same three functional holes, but inside the cartridge there is not a cavity, but special metal-ceramic disks. Due to their displacement relative to each other and the degree of overlap of the supply holes, when turning the lever, the water supply is adjusted.

Replaceable ceramic cartridges

The kitchen faucet is leaking - how to fix it yourself

To repair a kitchen faucet you will need:

  • knife with a sharp end;
  • hex and adjustable wrench;
  • screwdrivers;
  • a new cartridge, valve axle, rubber gasket, etc. - depends on which part you will change;
  • WD40 is a technical aerosol that is useful if parts are “stuck” to each other. However, you can get by with the traditional tapping of a hammer on a screwdriver, but there is a high risk of damaging the mixer.

Regardless of which faucet you have installed, before starting repairs, you must turn off the water supply to the system and drain its remaining water into a sink or a separate container. To do this, just open the tap. Then you can begin to repair it, taking into account the design features.

To repair a single-lever faucet, you will need a hex wrench.

Single lever kitchen faucet repair

The main principles of repair are sequence of actions and accuracy.

  1. Using a thin screwdriver or knife, pry and remove the decorative plug on the faucet body.
  2. In the resulting hole you will see a screw connecting the lever and the adjusting rod. Unscrew it using a hex wrench.
  3. Remove the lever from the body and unscrew the decorative casing. This can even be done by hand if the parts are not stuck to each other.

Removing the decorative casing

  1. There will be a locking (clamping) nut underneath it. Gently unscrew it with an adjustable wrench or by tapping it with a hammer on a screwdriver.
  2. If you disassemble the ball mixer, you will see a sealing collar under the nut. Inspect it for dirt, deformation and tears. Pull out the ball. Inspect its surface - it should be smooth and clean. It is necessary to remove the seals and support springs - their poor condition can cause the tap to leak.
  3. If you are disassembling a faucet with a cartridge, remove it and thoroughly inspect it.
  4. Replace the failed part.
  5. Reassemble the faucet in reverse order.

It is important! Do not tighten the nuts too tightly, as this may lead to deformation of the rubber seals and disruption of the normal operation of the mixer.

Installing a new cartridge

To extend the service life of the product and ensure smooth running of its rubbing parts, you can use a special silicone lubricant.

Removing the mixer handwheel

Repair of a two-valve mixer

What to do if your two-valve faucet is dripping in your kitchen? Almost everything is the same.

  • On the valve flywheel, pry up and remove the decorative plug.
  • Using a screwdriver, unscrew the screw that secures the flywheel.
  • Remove the flywheel. There will be a crane box in front of you.
  • Unscrew it counterclockwise and inspect it.

  • If it is a worm-type axlebox and its gasket is damaged, replace it separately - buy it in a store (costs pennies) or cut it yourself from rubber of a suitable thickness. The axle box with ceramic discs is replaced entirely.
  • Reassemble the faucet in reverse order.

General scheme of mixer repair work

Everything is as simple as possible and slightly reminiscent of a construction set. But a leaking faucet is not the only problem you may encounter while using it in the kitchen.

Other faucet breakdowns and fault prevention

The quality of water in many cities leaves much to be desired, so over time the aerator in the tap can become dirty. On the inside, hard deposits “grow” on it. When there are too many of them, the pressure and quality of the water deteriorate significantly. The solution to the problem is to replace the aerator. Ideally, it can be easily unscrewed with an adjustable wrench, but for stuck parts you will need WD40 or tapping with a hammer.

It is important! Carry out all work carefully, otherwise the mixer will have to be replaced completely.

The faucet is leaking, and during the inspection you found a crack in it? Then it's time to go for a new product. For a short time, silicone sealant can be an assistant.

You can extend the life of the faucet if you install a water filter and use the device carefully, without tightening the valves too tightly or moving the lever suddenly and all the way.

Now you know what to do if your kitchen faucet is dripping. In most cases, the repair schemes discussed are also suitable for eliminating breakdowns of faucets in bathrooms. This is a good saving for the family budget. But if you are not confident in your abilities or you simply don’t have time, a competent plumber will complete all the work in a matter of minutes.

Any faucet installed in the kitchen has certain requirements - soft water pressure, simple temperature control and, most importantly,...

How to change a kitchen faucet + some tips for faucet repair

The sound of dripping water in the kitchen is undoubtedly annoying. In some cases, it can even cause insomnia. This sound is caused by a faulty mixer. .

How to repair a kitchen faucet yourself

Obtaining high-quality drinking water in a private house or apartment has ceased to be a problem with the advent of various filters and even entire systems.

Kitchen faucet for water filter: operating principle and do-it-yourself installation features

please help me, my situation is much more complicated than the one you described. The faucet in the kitchen (two taps, and a third pipe coming out from below to the shower, ending with a brush for washing vegetables and going out into a separate hole in the sink, sold together with a kitchen set, produced in Voronezh approximately 1979-82 ) in operation for only 5 years before that it was just lying there, it was a pity to throw it away. It’s a very convenient thing, it has a single-circuit water heater. The essence of the problem: when you open the tap, the water flows with good pressure for 1-2 seconds and then disappears altogether; if you open the tap slowly, the pressure remains. If you cross a certain pressure limit, it turns off spontaneously, given the presence of the column, it was scalded several times during that day, or you open the tap and the water doesn’t come out at all. (Yesterday after dinner I couldn’t wash the dishes) there was no water coming out at all. If you open the faucet in the bathroom, the water in the kitchen faucet will not disappear, but the pressure will be correspondingly small (if you have a cold water meter, this is not a good idea). It’s useless to call a Zhekovsky plumber (this summer the cartridge in my bathroom on the joystick faucet broke, so he couldn’t remove it for me, he said buy an old-style faucet with a coiled faucet. I’ll supply it for you). My husband went and bought new cranes and moved the bays, but the problem did not go away. If you can give me some constructive idea, please tell me. Thanks in advance, Elochka.

A faucet with a high twist in the kitchen is leaking at the turning point. How to remove the spout and change the rings. if there is no union nut. The spout is simply inserted into the mixer body. I couldn't find the answer anywhere.

Do-it-yourself kitchen faucet repair: step-by-step instructions and detailed video


When a crane needs repairs. Design of various types of mixers. The faucet is leaking in the kitchen - how to fix it, taking into account its design. Other problems with the mixer

DIY kitchen faucet repair

The kitchen tap provides us with water dozens of times a day. It is not surprising that it fails more often than in the bathroom. Before calling a plumber or buying a new faucet, you should try to repair it yourself.

If you are reading this article, then one of these breakdowns has occurred with your faucet:

  • The faucet is leaking, water is dripping from under the handle;
  • Water drips from the spout even when the valves are closed;
  • When opening the mixer, a humming sound appears in the pipes;
  • The water jet is too thin;
  • The single-lever mixer operates in jerks;
  • Water flows out from under the union nut on the spout;
  • The tap lever does not lock in the desired position;
  • Leak in the flywheel area (valve structures).

What is needed for repair

Before you start repairing a kitchen faucet with your own hands, you need to prepare all the tools and necessary faucet components.

  • Hex wrench;
  • Adjustment key;
  • Cutter knife;
  • Screwdriver and hammer.

Repairs also require additional materials - dry rags, lubricant. And if the faucet leaks, you will have to buy additional spare parts: a new cartridge or its parts (for a single-lever mixer), sealing rings, a faucet axle (for a two-valve design).

Repairing a single-lever ball-type mixer

There are four reasons why a faucet needs to be repaired:

  • Cracks, chips caused by mechanical damage to the body;
  • Blockage in the cartridge between the seats and the ball;
  • Gasket wear;
  • The aerator is clogged or rusty.

What to do if a defect appears on the case? You can try to repair it by cold welding - sealant (putty). But this is still a temporary measure, and soon you will still have to change the mixer.

If the problem is low water pressure, then most likely the cause is a clogged aerator. Then you need to take it out, clean the mesh, for example, with a toothbrush, and then install it back.

Let's look at the problems more seriously.

When the faucet leaks without visible damage, the problem is most likely a violation of the integrity of the gasket or a broken cartridge. In this case, complete disassembly of the kitchen single-lever mixer is required.

How to disassemble the tap? First, turn off the water and let the remaining water flow out of the tap. Then study the structure of the single-lever kitchen faucet in the photo.

Now let's start the repair step by step:

  1. The screw on the main body is unscrewed. It is usually hidden behind a decorative plug that needs to be removed with a screwdriver, as shown in the photo.

Advice! You can disassemble and repair the device even if you don’t have a hex wrench at hand. To do this, carefully tap the fastening nut with a hammer on a screwdriver.

  1. The lever and cap are removed, and now we need to remove the cartridge and inspect the entire device for defects. To do this, unscrew the cam washer using an adjustable wrench.
  1. The disassembled faucet is inspected for defects: the gasket, the surface of the ball and the springs supporting the rubber seals in the holes are inspected. Loose springs and worn taps are replaced if necessary. At this stage, you need to clean all parts from accumulated water deposits.
  2. Most often, a leak from a faucet occurs due to a blockage formed between the ball and the valve seats in the cartridge. In this case, you just need to change it. The whole difficulty of this task lies in the correct choice of cartridge, and repairing the faucet with your own hands is not at all difficult.

Advice! When going to a plumbing store to buy a new cartridge, take the old one with you so as not to make a mistake with the size, because the cartridges are not standardized - they are produced in a variety of diameters and materials.

We install the new cartridge so that its holes align with the holes inside the mixer body. Then screw the washer back on (first with your hands, then tightly, but not too tightly, with a wrench).

  1. We check the quality of our work by running water. If it does not leak, then we proceed to install the cap, and then the lever - we tighten the screw in it and fasten the plug.

How to change the gasket in the mixer? This is also quite easy. You need to remove the old O-rings and replace them with new ones, to which we first apply a little plumbing grease.

Advice! For all rubbing parts of the product, non-toxic silicone-based lubricant should be used. This will double the service life of structural elements.

How to fix this type of faucet? It is necessary to disassemble and replace worn elements - the valve axle and/or gasket.

The sequence of work in this case will be as follows:

  1. The water is completely shut off, after which the valve flywheel is moved to the operating position so that excess pressure does not act on the parts.
  2. Next, you need to disassemble the structure - to do this, remove the decorative caps and remove the screw that secures the flywheel. To do this you will need a screwdriver. Next, the old crane axle box is replaced with a new one of a suitable size, and the structure is put back together.

  1. If the gasket is worn out, it is simply removed and a new one, lubricated with plumbing grease, is installed in its place.

Often valve mixers need to be repaired because the seal has leaked. Then it needs to be disassembled using the same algorithm and the worn packing replaced.

Advice! Replacement of the packing is only necessary when the bushing is tightly tightened and there is still a leak. The following are used as packing (for old faucets):

  • Rubber tube of appropriate dimensions;
  • Burlap threads;
  • Twine impregnated with drying oil.

If you see that the threads on the parts have worn out, then this indicates that it is time to update the plumbing.

Being able to repair your kitchen faucet yourself is a great way to save money. However, repairs cannot always completely restore the efficiency of the faucet, and it is often easier to simply replace the faucet in the kitchen.

Keep in mind that:

  • The most durable structures are considered to be those made of heavy metals (brass);
  • The lowest quality are Chinese or Turkish silumin products;
  • The convenience of the single-lever device is obvious - it can be opened with one free hand. It is also easier to repair, since the design contains fewer spare parts.
  • Faucet repairs can be prevented. Most often, the main cause of malfunctions is contaminants coming from the water main. Therefore, installing special coarse water filters will help you keep your faucet intact longer.

Repairing a kitchen faucet correctly - step-by-step instructions (photos, videos)


Simple and clear information about repairing faucets in the kitchen: what to do if the faucet is leaking, the pressure has become weak or the thread has worn out? How to properly disassemble and reassemble the mixer?

We repair a single-lever mixer ourselves

Single-lever faucets attract with their laconic design and ease of control of water flow. Turning on the water, changing its temperature and pressure - all this with one turn of the handle. These devices are reliable and have a long service life—some branded ones come with a 5-year warranty. However, repair of a single-lever faucet is periodically necessary.

Types of single-lever mixers and their design

Despite the external similarity, there are two types of rotary or single-lever faucets - with a cartridge (cartridge) and ball - with a ball inside. You can repair any of them, but to do this you must first disassemble them. And so that you can not only disassemble, but also assemble, it is advisable to become familiar with the internal structure of each.

The design may be different, the structure remains the same

Cartridge mixer: structure

Cartridge mixers are so named because their shut-off and control mechanism is hidden in a special cartridge flask. In more expensive faucet models, the cartridge body is made of ceramic, in cheaper ones - from plastic. The good thing about these models is that they are easy to repair, but it is not always easy to achieve the required pressure with them - you need tighter control of the handle. But changing the water temperature is very easy - with a slight movement of the hand.

The structure of a single-lever faucet with a cartridge is simple. If you go from top to bottom:

  • Switch with fixing screw.
  • Locking (clamping) nut.
  • Cartridge. The water flows are mixed in it, and the same device shuts off the water.
  • The mixer body, which has a “seat” for the cartridge.
  • Fasteners, studs and gaskets to ensure tightness.
  • Spout (gander). It can be a separate part - in rotary models for the kitchen or part of the body - for sinks in the bathroom.
  • If the spout is separate, gaskets are also installed below and there is also part of the body.

What does a single lever mixer with cartridge consist of?

The cartridge itself contains several (usually 4) ceramic or metal disks of a special shape. A rod is welded to the upper disk. By changing the position of the rod, we change the position of the plates relative to each other, changing the amount of water passing through the holes in the plates.

In order for the faucet/mixer to work normally, the plates are ground very tightly. For this reason, cartridge single-lever faucets are very demanding on water quality. Foreign fragments getting between the plates causes the faucet to leak or stop working altogether. To avoid this, some manufacturers install filters on the incoming pipes. But, it is better to install filters on the water supply and get clean water that can be safely supplied to household appliances.

Single lever ball mixer

It got its name from the element in which the water is mixed - a ball with cavities. The ball is usually metal, hollow inside. Its outer part is polished to a shine. The ball has three holes - two for the entry of cold and hot water, one for the exit of already mixed water. A rod is attached to the ball, which fits into a cavity in the handle. This rod with a rigidly attached ball changes the temperature of the water and its pressure.

The structure of a single-lever mixer with a ball water mixing mechanism

It is easier to adjust the parameters with such a device - the parts are well lapped, the handle moves easily. Mixers with a ball mechanism are less critical to the presence of mechanical impurities, but do not respond very well to the presence of hardness salts and excess iron. So for normal operation, pre-filtration is required here too.

How to disassemble and repair a faucet with a cartridge

Repairing a single-lever cartridge faucet often involves reassembling and cleaning the O-rings. Salts are deposited on them, debris and dirt accumulate, which is why the faucet begins to leak. To eliminate this nuisance, the mixer is disassembled, all parts are wiped of dirt (with soapy warm water), rinsed, dried, and put back in place.

Sequence of installation of parts in a cartridge single-lever mixer

Let's figure out how to disassemble a faucet with a cartridge. First, turn off the water, and then the procedure is as follows:

  • Remove the decorative plug located on the handle. Just pry it out with a screwdriver.
  • The mounting screw is hidden behind it. We unscrew it with a hex key and take it out.

First, unscrew the fixing screw

That's all. The single lever mixer with cartridge was disassembled. As you can see, there are not many details. The main working part is the cartridge. It is in it, inside, that mixing occurs.

Replacing the cartridge

The cartridge itself has a sealing gasket - a rubber seat at the bottom, which ensures a tight fit to the body. Over time, the rubber loses its elasticity and water begins to leak out. If this is the problem, you can first try to clean this ring from the salts and deposits that have formed on it. Place the cleaned part in place and check the work. If the leak does not stop, you will have to replace the cartridge.

Cartridges for “one-arm” faucets

Cartridges for mixers have different diameters, and the inlets and outlets in the lower part are located differently. Therefore, if you need to replace it, first you disassemble the mixer, get the treasured part and go to the store or market with it. You must choose exactly the same model without any deviations. At home, install the cartridge into the housing, turn it slightly until you feel that it “sits” in place. Next is assembly, it goes in reverse order.

First install the clamp nut. Actually, at this stage you can check how the new cartridge works. Turn on the water, adjust the temperature and pressure with the rod. To make it more convenient, you can put a handle on the rod. If everything is fine, continue assembly.

We disassemble and repair a single-lever ball mixer

The single-lever ball mixer was invented a little over 40 years ago. Its design is simple and reliable - there is nothing to break. If problems arise, it is only due to poor quality water - dirt particles settle on the rubber saddles on which the ball rests. The contact deteriorates, water leaks out and the faucet begins to leak.

How to disassemble a single lever ball mixer

Some ball valves are also available with a cartridge. Only inside the cartridge there are not plates, but a ball. Disassembly of this type is no different from that described above. All the difference is hidden inside the flask. There are also other types of taps. In them, the locking ball is installed directly into the rubber seat. There are some minor differences here.

The faucet lever is removed in the same way - first remove the plug, then unscrew the screw with a hexagon. Pull the lever up and remove it. Afterwards the steps are very simple and

Repair of single lever mixer for bathroom, kitchen


Self-repair of a single-lever faucet in a bathroom or kitchen is possible. You just need to know how to take them apart. Description with photos and videos in the article.

Do-it-yourself single-lever kitchen faucet repair

Single-lever faucets have literally flooded the household plumbing market in recent years. And this is not strange, since these devices, despite their simple internal structure, have a high level of reliability, and their repair costs a penny. Why are lever mixers so common and how can you repair such a device yourself?

The best option for the kitchen and bathroom is an articulated faucet

There are quite a lot of different faucets on the modern plumbing market, which differ in both external and internal components. Some of them have built-in temperature sensors and electrical circuits, thanks to which you can set the water temperature as accurately as possible, others are extremely simple. The latter can easily include articulated cranes, which are extremely easy to install and maintain.

GROHE professional kitchen faucet

The main advantage of single-lever faucets is the absence of any metal elements inside the main device (cartridge). Instead, spare parts made of ceramics are installed. They do not corrode and are not afraid of direct exposure to water. The only thing that can lead to their premature destruction is low-quality and unfiltered water. Despite the fact that primitive filters are already installed in the cartridges located inside the mixer, in some regions of our country they are simply useless. Therefore, it is advisable to take care in advance of installing at least a local system of additional water filtration.

Another advantage of single lever faucets is their modern and minimalist design. Only the basic elements fall into a person’s field of vision, and the water supply and the main mechanisms are carefully hidden from outside views.

People choose these mixers not only because of their simplicity of design or external characteristics, but also because of their simple operation and cost-effectiveness. There is no need to adjust the optimal temperature every time; just move the lever to the desired position once.

Kitchen faucets BLANCO STEELART

Before moving on to the main causes of failure, you need to consider what a standard representative of single-lever mixers consists of:

  • a lever designed to regulate and supply water;
  • an adjusting rod on which the lever is attached directly;
  • a housing, inside of which there is either a hinged valve or a plastic cartridge with ceramic filling;
  • adjustment ring, steam and adjusting cuffs.

Main causes of failure

Since there are currently several types of single-lever faucets on the plumbing fixtures market, we will look at the most common types of breakdowns, as well as the reasons for their occurrence.

Main causes of failure:

  1. The main water distributor in articulated mixers is a steel ball. Unfortunately, it can corrode over time. Various gaskets and seals also wear out, allowing water to pass through. To return the faucet to normal operating condition, it is necessary to replace worn parts.
  2. If a ceramic cartridge is installed inside the faucet, the cause of the breakdown may be some small debris that got either through the plumbing system or during installation of the product. Despite this, products with a ceramic cartridge inside are considered the most reliable and, if installed correctly, can last a very long time.

Mixer repair: operating procedure

Before you begin repairing the faucet, you must turn off the water supply. After the water is turned off, open the tap and wait for the remainder to drain. Since all work will be carried out in close proximity to the surface of the sink, it is advisable to cover it with a cloth. It is enough to put an unnecessary rag in the place where the mixer is located.

The following procedure may vary slightly depending on the model and type of faucet used, but the general repair picture looks something like this:

  1. First, we need to get rid of the special decorative plug that is located on the front of the mixer. It is an indicator of cold and hot water. Under the plug there is a fixing screw that needs to be unscrewed.
  2. Removes the lever itself. There is no need to put in unnecessary effort, since faucets are most often made of cheap metal alloys and the structure can be easily damaged. If the lever does not budge, then you can pour hot water on it for a few minutes.
  3. Under the lever there is a decorative dome, which also needs to be carefully removed.
  4. Next, we must remove the clamping nut, which is responsible for ensuring that the structure is in place.
  5. Depending on the type of mixer, there may be either a distribution ball and other elements of a hinged mixer inside, or a plastic cartridge with ceramic discs inside. In the first case, you need to make sure that the ball itself is intact, check the condition of the gaskets, seals and the spring that holds the valve in place. If necessary, we replace elements. If you have a cartridge installed, then carefully remove it and head to the nearest store, where we look for a replacement.
  6. Leaks can also occur directly under the spout. In this case, it is necessary to replace the old seals.
  7. Under the cartridge, as a rule, there are rubber seats, which become unusable over time. We wash away any remaining dirt and other debris that has entered during use.
  8. If you replace a cartridge, before installing a new one, you must thoroughly clean the seat itself from corrosion and rust. During installation, make sure that the clamps fit exactly into the grooves, otherwise the mixer will not work properly.

If the repairs made did not bring a visible effect or only partially corrected the problem, then you need to find other possible causes of the problem. Let's look at other possible problems:

  1. A clogged aerator causes the water pressure to be very different from that in the bathroom. To fix the problem, you need to remove this element and clean it thoroughly. If the cause of its malfunction is rust, then this element will have to be completely replaced.
  2. A loud noise from the faucet when water is supplied may indicate that the gaskets are not the right size. This is especially true in cases where you cut them out yourself. In this case, we disassemble the mixer and cut off the gaskets.
  3. The water pressure in the tap can also be significantly reduced due to blockages in the connecting flexible hoses or water pipes. After cleaning the mixer, replace the hoses with new ones, as deposits may form on the old ones, which will lead to repeated failure of the cartridge or hinge.
  4. If the mixer is located in the bathroom and during the bathing process the water direction switching lever lowers on its own, then it is necessary to replace the gasket, which is hidden under the spool. There is no need to dismantle the mixer for this, just unscrew the nut and remove the hose itself, after which we change the gasket and return everything to its place.
  5. It is much more difficult to replace the bottom gasket, since you not only need to disconnect the hose, but also remove the adapter along with the spout. Next, we completely remove the switch, eccentric and spool, after which we change the gasket and reassemble everything in the reverse order.

Repairing a single-lever faucet at home is inherently quite simple and does not require any special plumbing skills. The only thing you need to constantly remember is that such devices do not like abuse.

If you think about the ease of repair, then you need to think in advance what type of mixer you will install. This can be a product either on a hinged base or on cartridges. The former are less picky about water quality, while the latter can be repaired in a matter of minutes, since most faults directly affect the cartridge itself. The average cost of such a cartridge is 100–150 rubles, which is good news, although to choose the right model, you will have to take an old spare part with you. This is due to the fact that each manufacturer is trying in every possible way to improve their products and at the moment you can find dozens, or even hundreds of different models. Products from the Chinese manufacturer are especially distinguished by this craving for something new.

Do-it-yourself repair of a single-lever kitchen faucet


The main types and causes of breakdowns of single-lever mixers. Step-by-step text and video repair instructions