When taking grape cuttings for propagation. Propagation of grapes by cuttings at home

It is not always possible to purchase the desired variety of fruit crop, so domestic gardeners are looking for other ways to obtain plants. Propagating grapes by cuttings at home will make it easy to root elite and rare varieties. In our review we will tell you in detail about the available methods that will help increase plantings.

Preparation and storage

Propagating fruit vines is not as easy as the authors of the videos on the Internet claim. The most reliable and common method at home is cuttings. The gardener controls all stages of crop formation and can adjust the temperature or humidity at any time. For high-quality breeding, you need to properly prepare the chubuks, so we will dwell on this process.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings in the fall begins with preliminary work. Healthy and strong shoots ripen during the summer. Weak, diseased lashes can be recognized by their characteristic signs:

heterogeneous color;
damage from pests or diseases;
They do not crack when bent.

Thick, “fattening” branches are not suitable for propagating grapes by cuttings. After the foliage has fallen from the plants in the fall, you need to have time to prepare the chibouks before the onset of the first frost. The cut vines are cleared of tendrils and chopped into pieces ranging from 50 to 75 cm in length. The longer the raw material, the more efficient the process and with less waste, so professionals recommend vines up to 120 cm.

At home, treatment of cuttings against diseases and rot proceeds according to the following scheme:

stand in clean water for a day;
soak for 30 minutes in a solution of potassium permanganate or copper sulfate;
dry on paper.

Then the material is collected into bundles, marked with a label with the name of the variety, tightly wrapped in film and sent for storage. There are several ways to properly preserve grapes in winter:

in a refrigerator;
on the loggia;
in the basement;
buried in the ground.

In the first three cases, the gardener controls all storage processes, so he can prevent premature swelling of the buds and the appearance of green leaves. It is recommended to winter at temperatures from 1 to 5 degrees above zero. If mold occurs, you need to wipe the affected areas with potassium permanganate. If drying is observed, then it is necessary to re-immerse in liquid, dry and repackage.

For wintering outdoors, chibuki are buried to a depth of at least 40 cm. It is important to monitor weather changes. In mid-February, the plant enters a phase of forced hibernation, so when it gets warmer, it will begin to awaken.

Rooting

In the spring, the interrupted cutting process is continued. If the preparations have been properly wintered, then with the onset of the first sunny days you can awaken the raw materials from hibernation. Disinfect in a manganese solution, and then rinse in warm, clean water. Step back 2 cm from the outermost lower and upper buds, then make a cut. Dilute the Kornevin stimulator according to the instructions and soak the pipes in the solution for 48 hours.

Remember: a cut of a healthy lash looks light green, without the slightest dark inclusions. If liquid does not come out of the wound or it oozes heavily, then the plant has died.

To accelerate the formation of roots, several vertical furrows are made in the lower part with a clean blade, which are sprinkled with Heterouaxin. Callus appears on the damaged side, which further ensures rapid rooting. To slow down the opening of the buds, the bottom is placed in a warm environment, and the tops in a cool environment. For the development of foliage, a properly formed system is necessary, and a deficiency leads to the death of the plant.

If you decide to propagate grapes from cuttings, then you need to germinate the grapes in the spring. Let's look at the most popular methods.

In a plastic bottle. Cut off the neck of the container, make holes in the bottom and pour in a layer of drainage and soil. The future grapes are installed at an angle so that the upper eye is always level with the top of the head. Then they sprinkle it with steamed sawdust and cover it with a “lid”. The plant is placed on a sunny window. Watering is carried out through a tray with water, leaving the “greenhouse” for 15 minutes.
Disposable glasses. For the procedure you will need two containers of 500 and 150 ml. Holes are made in the bottom, and then filled with deciduous soil to 2 cm, and wet, clean sand is poured on the sides, in the middle of which a cutting is installed. Cover the top with a small dish. Watering with warm water is done every day.
In hydrogel. Steamed, cooled sawdust is placed at the bottom of the container, to which a swollen substance is added. The workpieces are placed in the substrate and placed in a warm place. It is important to ensure that the plants have enough moisture and that it does not stagnate, so the product must be diluted according to the instructions.
Kilchevatel. Large batches can be cut using a special apparatus. The heated box is taken out into a cool room. A damp substrate (sphagnum moss, foam rubber or fabric) is placed at the bottom of the machine. The chubuks are installed with the tops down, the lid is closed and the electricity is turned on.

The top of the greenhouse is removed after the fourth leaf appears on the cuttings. If all procedures are carried out correctly, then young roots will rest against the transparent walls of the container. It is imperative to control the temperature, because a decrease in degrees leads to the appearance of fungi and mold. The entire procedure lasts from two to three weeks.

Transplantation into soil

After the roots have appeared, propagation of grapes by cuttings will proceed faster. In the spring you need to prepare a mixture in which the plants will immediately begin to actively develop. In order for the rooting procedure to proceed without problems, you should not use soil that is too nutritious, enriched with humus and sawdust. The aggressive environment of decomposition of nitrogen and oxygen negatively affects the fragile organs of the chibouks.

To develop, grapes need light, air- and water-permeable soil. Professionals often use vermiculite for these purposes, but if there is no experience in breeding in this way, then it is better to make a high-quality mixture of turf soil and sand yourself.

3 cm of expanded clay is placed at the bottom of the pot, and soil is poured on top. To improve air exchange, you need to make additional holes on all sides. A hole is made in the container with your finger, into which it is filled with sand and the young animals are installed. Then crush it with the rest of the earth, leaving at least 2 nodules on the surface. When choosing a container for rooting cuttings, you need to give preference to a container from which you can easily remove the plant without injury.

Before planting in open ground, the grapes are hardened off. This procedure will protect the young shoots from burns and additional stress. With the onset of warm days, the boxes are placed outside, under the trees. We recommend shading it with a net from the daytime sun.

Propagation of grapes by cuttings (chubuks)

GRAPES.GROWING SEEDLINGS FROM CUTTINGS

Germinating grape cuttings - the easiest way Part 1

How and when to harvest grape cuttings

Propagation by cuttings in summer and spring is the final stage. The strengthened plants have formed leaves and new green vines, so it’s time to plant them in open ground. For the Middle Zone, the procedure is carried out in May, and in Siberia it is better to give preference to warm June days.

Seedlings are planted at a distance of 2.3-2.7 m from each other and 1.8-2 m between rows.

Dig a hole the length of which exceeds the size of the germination container. A layer of drainage, sand and mineral fertilizers are placed at the bottom. Remember: in the first years of grape life, organic substances are prohibited. Active decomposition of the product releases heat, which burns fragile roots. Give preference to an industrially produced product.

Sifted soil is poured onto the nutrient cushion, and a drain hole is made in the bottom with a stake, the depth of which is at least 10 cm. A seedling is placed in the hole, a peg is driven in nearby, crushed with soil on top and compacted.

After you have managed to plant grapes at home, the plant is immediately watered abundantly. Carefully empty two buckets for each bush, and then hill up. The formed hill should be up to 20 cm high, with the upper bud of the cuttings not lower than 5 cm underground.

Fast cuttings

When fatty and fruitless shoots are broken off in summer, the result is often a lot of branches. You can try to root rare and elite varieties of fruit vines, as well as decorative maiden vines. The raw materials are carefully inspected, selecting branches with three eyes and no painful signs.

Propagation of grapes by green cuttings takes place in a greenhouse. To do this, prepared seedlings are planted in a mixture of soil and washed sand to a depth of 9 cm. Remember: the upper buds are above the ground. Rooting requires frequent watering and maintaining a temperature of 20 to 25 degrees with high indoor humidity. After two weeks, the plants will begin to sprout roots.

A greenhouse is an excellent environment for the development of diseases, therefore, when cuttings, seedlings are treated against mildew and oidium with special preparations. Regular ventilation will get rid of mold and rot.

Propagation of homemade grapes by green cuttings continues in the fall. The vegetation is prepared for wintering, so at the end of summer the greenhouse frames are opened. After two weeks, young animals can carry out vegetation processes under natural conditions. Bushes rooted in this way are watered abundantly and regularly fed with mineral fertilizers.

Experienced gardeners advise leaving annual grapes in the nursery. But if this is not possible, then protective structures must be built to avoid the negative consequences of frost in autumn and winter.

To get a luxurious fruit vine plantation, you do not need to purchase expensive seedlings. Our recommendations will help you propagate grapes from cuttings without problems and without watching obscure information on videos.

Thanks to the painstaking work of specialists, today it is possible to grow grapes in any climatic conditions. The main thing is to choose the right variety. There are vineyards that can withstand temperatures down to -30°C.

But buying a shrub involves a number of nuances. It is not always possible to find a vineyard of the desired variety. In addition, there is always a possibility that under the guise of one variety they will sell a seedling of a completely different one, and their cost today is far from budget. Getting a cutting is much easier. Let's look at how to root grape cuttings yourself.

Cuttings are prepared after the harvest has been harvested and the leaves have begun to fly off. The timing of the procurement of planting material is determined by the timing of the first frost on the ground. This is due to the fact that the harvested cuttings must have live and healthy buds. At the first frost, the buds on the grape shoots die. Accordingly, such preparations cannot be used for growing a vineyard. It is advisable to start preparing cuttings in the second half of September, if we are talking about early grape varieties, and in early October, if we are talking about late ones.

You should not take cuttings from the first shrub you come across. It is necessary to determine the variety that produced the largest amount of harvest during the season and is not susceptible to any diseases.

Part of an immature shoot cannot be used as a cutting. You need a vine that is not green, but brown. The most suitable material for preparing cuttings will be a shoot, the diameter of which varies from 8 to 10 mm, and the length 1 from 20 to 40 cm, while the number of internodes should not exceed 8 or be less than 4. There should be no damage to the bark along the entire length of the cutting , including mechanical. It is desirable that the selected part of the shoot be straight.

You should not choose varieties based on their characteristics. First of all, you should pay attention to which vineyard varieties give good results in a particular region of the country and at the same time are not particularly demanding in care.

Preparing cuttings for the winter

It is not possible to root grape cuttings in winter due to too low temperatures, so during the winter period it is necessary to preserve planting material in such a way that it remains alive. This will not be difficult to do if you follow 5 simple rules after pruning.

Immediately after pruning, it is important to place the cuttings in a container of water and leave for 24 hours.
After 24 hours, place the planting material in a solution of potassium permanganate for 30 minutes. This treatment is necessary for disinfection. An alternative to a solution of potassium permanganate is a solution of vitriol.
After the time has passed, remove the cuttings and place them on a dry towel or paper napkins. Gently remove excess moisture with paper towels and leave the cuttings to dry completely.
Wrap dry cuttings in pre-prepared film and carefully tie them with a soft piece of cloth. If you do this too tightly, you can damage the bark of the seedlings at the dressing site.
To avoid confusing vineyard varieties in the spring, hang a tag on all packaged cuttings. In addition to the name of the variety, the date of packaging should be indicated on the tag.

All these procedures are easy to perform at home. The preparation of grape cuttings for rooting is now complete. All that remains is to wait until spring and start planting them.

To prevent planting material from dying during winter storage, it is necessary to provide it with a certain temperature regime. For grape cuttings, the most comfortable temperature is 3°C. Deviations of 1-2°C are allowed. Accordingly, the most suitable place to store cuttings is a refrigerator, where you can set the temperature to a certain level. A loggia or cellar is also suitable for storing planting material.

Features of storing cuttings in winter

Be sure to check the condition of the cuttings at least once every 30 days. If they dry out, then they need to be unpacked, repeat all the steps that were done before packing, and pack them again. If mold appears on the bark of the workpieces, then the affected areas should be treated with a weak solution of potassium permanganate.

Alternatively, you can store the cuttings in the ground over winter. They are buried to a height not exceeding 0.4 m. But in regions with harsh winters, this method is not applicable. Most of the planting material usually dies.

Preparing for rooting

Before rooting grape cuttings, you need to disinfect them and prepare them in a certain way. For disinfection, use a solution of potassium permanganate, after which the planting material is washed. These steps should be performed in a warm room.

After disinfection, cut off the cuttings from below. The straight cutting line should be at least 5 mm below the end point and no more than 20 mm below it. You also need to trim the cuttings above the upper bud, but in this case they make an oblique cut. The cuttings prepared in this way are placed in a stimulator, which can be purchased at a specialized store, for 48 hours. An alternative to stimulants offered in stores can be a solution of natural honey or aloe juice. To prepare the solution you will need 1 tbsp. l. honey or aloe juice and 10 liters of water. The upper cut is treated with garden varnish.

Before rooting grape cuttings in the ground, you need to take care of the formation of the root system. In its absence, the leaves will not have enough substances for normal functioning, which will lead to their death, therefore, after disinfection and pruning of the planting material, the bark is slightly cut along the cutting below the last internode. This should be done with a clean knife to avoid infection. After making the cuts, sprinkle them with heteroaxin.

If we are talking about varieties whose rooting leaves much to be desired, it is advisable to rub heteroaxin into the cuts made with a knife.

Kilchevanie

To speed up the formation of the root system, you can carry out a process called kilching. It is easy to do at home. We will need a couple of plastic bottles, a clean rag, a diaper, a container (a box or box is best) and sawdust.

We take a previously prepared cutting and wrap its lower part in a rag, which we first moisten with warm water. We wrap the upper part of the cutting with a diaper.
We fill one bottle with water, the temperature of which is 28-30°C, and fill the other with water and place it in the freezer until it freezes completely.
Place a bottle of warm water on one side of the box and ice on the other. We place the cuttings on top of the bottles so that their lower part is located on the bottle with warm water. The top one, accordingly, should be located on the bottle with ice.
Cover the cuttings with sawdust. Cover the box.

Kilching is carried out over 3 days. Accordingly, during this entire time you will have to change bottles with ice and warm water several times in order to maintain the desired temperature. After the specified period, root tubercles and an annular white influx should form on the cuttings. This planting material is ready for further rooting.

The final stage of rooting

Today, there are many options that allow you to root grape cuttings at home. We will look at three methods that are especially popular:

in containers with water;
"on the wardrobe";
in the filler.

It cannot be said that some of the methods are better and some are worse, so we will consider each of them separately.

Rooting in containers with water

This method is called the P.P. method. Radchevsky in honor of the professor who invented it. To root cuttings using this method, you will need either water obtained from snow, or collected from rain, or melted water, or boiled. It is not recommended to use running water. As a last resort - defended. You will also need containers in which to place the cuttings. Glass jars with a wide neck are best.

Pour water into glass containers. It is enough to pour a layer of water, the thickness of which is 3 cm. Then we place the cuttings in the container. You should not place more than 10 pieces in one container. We place the containers with the cuttings on the windowsill, which is heated by the sun. It is advisable to place the containers on low stands and cover the tops of the cuttings along with the containers with plastic bags: this will help maintain the required level of humidity.

After 1.5-2 weeks, the shoots will begin to grow, and the roots will begin to grow at the same time. This method is good because you can save shoots on the cuttings, but you should not grow more than one: this will take a lot of nutrients from the seedling, and there will be no nutrients left for the development of the root system. You need to break off the shoot that is stronger.

After the roots appear, move the cuttings into the ground. Planting a seedling is done extremely carefully. It is very important not to break off the roots.

Rooting “on the closet”

This method is easier to implement than the previous one. Let's look at how to properly root grape cuttings “on the closet”. You will need fabric, water and film. First of all, we wet the cloth with water, then we wrap the lower part of the previously prepared grape cuttings in cloth. In this case, the upper part of each cutting should remain free.

At the next stage, we wrap the lower part of each cutting in film, which should end flush with the fabric. The tops are still free. All that remains is to place the cuttings on the cabinet. However, you can put them on any high furniture or shelf located close to the ceiling. The cuttings must be positioned so that light reaches their tops, and the lower part is constantly hidden from light sources.

Ideally, after 2 weeks, a root system should appear on the cuttings. In extreme cases, roots will appear after 25 days. The last step is planting the cuttings.

Rooting in filler

Sawdust prepared in a certain way is used as filler. In addition to sawdust, we will need boiling water. Place sawdust in a container and fill it with boiling water so that it covers the contents of the container. Leave the sawdust until it cools completely, then remove excess water with your hands or using improvised means.

In a pre-prepared container, the height of which should exceed the height of the grape cuttings, we put a few centimeters of sawdust, then we plant the cuttings in them. They need to be positioned so that the buds point upward. Carefully lay out another layer of sawdust. All that remains is to cover the container and cuttings with film.

With this method of rooting, you need to moisten the filler 2-3 times a week. After 14 days, roots should appear on the planting material. When the root system appears, the cuttings are transferred to a container, the filler of which is a mixture of earth, sand and humus. As soon as favorable days arrive, the cuttings are transferred to open ground. Planting is usually carried out at the beginning of summer.

These are all possible ways to root grape cuttings at home. It is important to strictly follow all the recommendations described above and remember that rooting of planting material begins with the selection of a shoot to obtain a cutting. It is also worth noting that these methods are suitable for rooting a small number of cuttings. If we are talking about industrial scale, then other methods are used.

Rooting of one-eyed cuttings and green cuttings

Separately, it is worth mentioning the rooting of one-eyed cuttings. Working with such planting material is much easier due to its small size. It is convenient to place such seedlings in containers or jars. In addition, if we are talking about purchased material, and 2- or 3-eye seedlings are sold, then cutting them into 2 parts saves money.

But in order for the planting material to take root well, it should be prepared a little differently than a three-eyed cutting. If in the latter case we practically do not leave any hemp when making the lower cut, then when working with single-eyed material we should leave it long enough. This will significantly increase the chances of the event being successful. Next, the planting material should be rooted in water. Place the cutting in a jar and cover it with a plastic bag.

It is also worth noting that grapes can be propagated from green cuttings. This is done in the summer by cutting green cuttings from the bush in such a way as not to disturb its structure, and placing them in water until roots appear. In summer, it is advisable to place cuttings in rainwater. This method helps to obtain a large amount of planting material in one season.

Specific points

You can prepare cuttings both in autumn and spring, but autumn is considered a more suitable time, since moisture has not yet left the shoots. In spring, the shoots are drier, which negatively affects the rooting process. If you still decide to prepare the cuttings in the spring, then after pruning, soak them in water for at least 72 hours. During this time, the structure of the shoot tissue will be restored. Another disadvantage of harvesting cuttings in spring is the risk of getting planting material with frozen buds.

It also happens that grape cuttings do not take root at all or the process is very slow. There may be several reasons for this. First of all, you need to properly store the grape cuttings, then their rooting will take place without problems. In addition to the temperature regime, the planting material should be provided with a normal level of humidity. If there is excessive humidity, mold may appear on the cuttings. If the air is too dry, then a lot of moisture will leave the cuttings.

It is also worth mentioning the timing of rooting of cuttings. Many people, when talking about when to properly root cuttings of grape bushes, consider February. But when choosing a month to start rooting, you need to take into account the climate in a particular region. If the cold persists until spring, then you should start rooting in March. And gardeners who plan to root cuttings directly in the ground should begin rooting at least in mid-spring. This is due to the fact that the cuttings must be planted in heated soil.

Conclusion

We looked at how to root grape cuttings at home. This can be done in 3 ways. And we must not forget that rooted grape cuttings require careful care, otherwise all the work done will go down the drain.

It is also worth considering that there are grape varieties that are optimally suited for propagation by cuttings. This is, for example, parthenocissus or, as it is popularly called, maiden grapes. The Viorica variety is also suitable for propagation by cuttings.

Kira Stoletova

Propagation of grapes by cuttings in the spring is the most productive way. Seedlings planted in the ground at this time of year get sick less. Plants grown without layering or grafting have better survival. They also bear fruit faster.

Procurement of material

Grape cuttings should be prepared in the fall. The vine is cut when the plant has dropped its last leaves and gone into hibernation, otherwise it is damaged, which leads to the death of the plant.

When propagating grapes at home, a winegrower should follow a certain sequence of actions:

Select shoots that grew in summer. The diameter of the mother vine should not exceed 10 mm, and the distance between nodes should not be more than 10 cm. Each cutting should have 4 buds.
After cutting, soak the vine. This is done throughout the day, then it is cut off from molding with copper sulfate.
Wet the branches and tie them into bundles, then dry them in the shade.
Make cuts on dry branches. From above - inclined at a height of 2 cm above the central bud, and from below - straight at a distance of 1 cm from the lower bud.
Scratch the bark at the base so that the seedling develops a strong root system. The more grooves there are, the more roots will develop.

The preparations are stored in the basement. They are wrapped in linen or placed vertically in jars. If there are only a few vines, they are stored on the lower side shelf of the refrigerator. If you do not observe the temperature regime, the chibouks will wake up ahead of schedule and then dry out.

Germination of chibouks

Germination and rooting of chibouks at home is carried out in several stages. The best time to start forcing grapes is the end of February or the beginning of March. At this time, they are preparing the soil and selecting workpieces.

Suitable for germination in water are chibouks that secrete juice. This is checked by cutting off the edge of the cutting from below. The core, which has a yellow-green color, will definitely release a drop of moisture. If there is no liquid inside the shoot, it is spoiled.

At the first stage, the winegrower must saturate the vine with moisture. To do this, the workpieces are heated and completely soaked in water. Any substance that promotes rooting is also added there. There is no need to look for a special product for grapes, because all the biocomponents have a universal effect.

The vine is also germinated in water with honey. For 1 liter of water, use 1 tbsp. l. product. To activate growth, the workpieces are kept in any of the above substances for 2 days.

Rooting cuttings in the ground

Propagation of grapes by cuttings in the spring is carried out in several ways. The options differ in the planting method, but it has virtually no effect on the time from planting to rooting.

In plastic bottles or glasses

Acceleration of grapevines in bottles is done as follows:

In a 1.5 liter bottle, the neck is cut off, and several holes with a diameter of about 3 mm are made in the bottom. Holes are also made in the glasses to allow water to drain.
A handful of drainage is poured into the bottom of the prepared container, which can be clay shards, broken bottles or a special porous filler for flower pots.
Approximately 2 tbsp is poured over the drainage. soil mixture prepared from rotted leaves.
The hatched chubuk is placed in the ground, and then one third of it is covered with dry sawdust. The branch is placed at an angle of 60°.
After planting, the sawdust is lightly moistened with a spray bottle. Subsequent watering is carried out through trays. Makeshift pots are placed in water for 30 minutes, after which they are placed on a raised platform and the remaining liquid is removed.
The container with the cutting must be covered. For these purposes, white agrofibre is suitable, a piece of which should be secured along the upper edge of the bottle with tape.

After about a month, the spunbond is removed. By this time, a healthy shank will have already produced its first leaf and taken root. If a half-liter beer glass is used as a pot, the seedling is covered with a second glass.

In foam rubber or floral sponge

Chubuki can also be sprouted at home in damp foam rubber placed at the bottom of a plastic bag. The lower cut of the chubuks is placed in a sponge, and then the bag with the vine is tied on top and placed in a dark place for 10 days. After this time, root buds are visible on the vine. Sprouted chibouks are planted in the ground in special trays. They are also planted in small pots.

Rooted shoots prepared by any of the above methods are transferred to the ground in early May. At first, the plants are protected from the scorching sun and wind. The seedlings are also provided with regular watering and subsequent loosening of the soil.

Propagation by green shoots

Grapes are propagated not only from last year's ones, but also from young cuttings. The material is harvested at the time of flowering or no earlier than 2 weeks before it.

Basic Rules:

The harvested cuttings must have at least 2 buds.
The cuts on the vine are made obliquely, and the top one should be at a distance of 3 cm from the buds.
The frolicking leaves on the cuttings are removed so that they do not take away strength.
After cutting, the vine is placed in a bottle of water and only then planted in the ground. A rooting agent is added to the liquid.
The harvested material is protected from heat and direct sunlight, so the outlets are taken to the basement.

When the first buds hatch, the box is brought out into the light and a little shading is created for the nursery. After the leaves appear, the plants are transferred to a permanent place along with a lump of earth.

Cuttings of girl's grapes

Maiden, wild or Virginia grapes perform a decorative function. It can also be propagated by cuttings in the spring. The sequence of actions of a gardener is not much different from rooting cuttings of a fruit variety of a plant, although it has a number of significant differences.

The green fencing variety does not need to be pre-sprouted. The plant is very unpretentious to the soil, so it can be planted in any area. All the gardener needs to do is dig a ditch about 40 cm deep. A layer of drainage is placed at the bottom of the hole, and then a little sawdust mixed with sand is poured.

Cuttings of girlish grapes are cut green from a barely awakened plant. The length of the lash must be at least 40 cm, 15 of which are underground. In order for the seedling to take root as quickly as possible, it is placed at a slope to the surface.

After planting, the vine is watered with warm water, and then the hole is sprinkled with dry soil and lightly compacted with hands.

To get your own rooted seedling of the variety you like, you can take grape cuttings at home. To do this, you need to know how to properly prepare cuttings, what time is best to choose for this, and how to care for the resulting planting material in the future.

The photo shows cuttings

As a rule, cuttings are harvested in the autumn months, during. The main thing is to make it before frost, even if not all the foliage has flown from the bushes yet.

For cuttings, you need to choose the best grape bushes that have shown themselves well in terms of yield and quality of berries. Cuttings are cut from the middle part of the fruit-bearing vine, the thickness of which is from 7 to 12 mm, and the length of the internodes is approximately 10 cm. The color of a healthy vine should be straw or brown, without any dark spots or other suspicious signs.

Video about propagating grapes using green cuttings

Instructions for preparing cuttings:

cut the cuttings so that each has three or four developed buds;
remove all leaves and tendrils if they have not fallen off yet;
distribute the cuttings among varieties (if harvested from different grape bushes), tying them into bunches, and place them in water for a couple of days;
after soaking, it is advisable to disinfect grape cuttings with iron sulfate;
dry the planting material and put it in the refrigerator or basement, wrapped in plastic wrap. Suitable storage temperature is within 0+5 degrees.

Make sure that rot does not form on the cuttings in the basement due to high humidity. Rotten branches can be washed with water or discarded if they no longer look completely suitable for planting.

Photography of grape cuttings

At the end of February, or already in March, you can start growing grapes from cuttings. Cut each productive shoot into small cuttings with two eyes, one and a half centimeters away from the buds. In this case, the upper cut is beveled, and the lower one is made perpendicular.

Healthy twigs should be light green when cut and should release a clear liquid when pressed. Cuttings with darkened sections are not used for rooting.

It is recommended to make grooves on the sides of the base using a sharp nail or needle. Next, disinfect the small cuttings in a solution of potassium permanganate for 5 hours and place them entirely in water at room temperature for two days. It is also useful to hold the branches in a root formation stimulator after soaking.

Photo of soaking grape cuttings

To form a root system, prepared grape cuttings are placed in an ordinary glass jar filled with 3 cm of clean water. Place different varieties of grapes in different containers and place in a sunny place. After 12-14 days, you will notice how the upper bud has swollen, and the growth of a young shoot has begun, and in a month the roots will grow. The main thing is not to forget to add fresh water as it evaporates.

Plant the cuttings with regrown roots into the ground, using one and a half liter bottles with the neck cut off, plastic cups, plastic bags and seedling pots as containers. For convenience, containers with seedlings can be placed in one box, making it easier to later transport the stronger plants to the vineyard.

Before planting grapes with cuttings, you need to prepare a suitable substrate by mixing garden soil, humus, rotted sawdust and sand (1.3: 1: 1: 0.5), or buy a ready-made soil mixture in the store. Be sure to add a drainage layer to the bottom of the container, add soil mixture and, placing the cutting so that the top eye is on the surface, fill the container to the top.

Video about how and when to root grape cuttings

As you can see, growing grapes from cuttings is not particularly difficult. It is only important not to neglect the rules of caring for seedlings:

keep on a sunny windowsill, but at the same time shade the glass from the sun's rays to prevent burns on the delicate grape leaves;
maintain moderate soil moisture;
remove emerging weeds;
periodically water the soil with a suitable pest control agent;
feed the seedlings with complex fertilizers.

Photos of grape cuttings

By June, the cuttings will be completely ready for planting in open ground, but if the plants seem weak in appearance, move them to a greenhouse for growing. Well, you can read about which planting method is best to choose in the corresponding article on our website.

In my large vineyard, only wine varieties of berries grow. The bushes are many years old, and I renew my plants every year in different ways. The most convenient option is to root grape cuttings. In this case, the young plant receives all the best characteristics from the mother bush.

For me, a vineyard is a hobby, a pleasure, a hobby, so I try to try different methods of propagation. I root my new plants not only with cuttings in the ground, I make seedlings by rooting them in sawdust and in a closet. Each of these methods gives good results.

I tried to grow grapes from seeds, but I didn’t like this option, it takes a very long time to wait for results, and also, a bush grown from seeds will not inherit the qualities of the “native” plant.

Thanks to the breeders, they have developed grape varieties that bear fruit well not only in warm regions, but also in the middle zone.

It is not difficult to propagate grapes; the vine can take root at any time of the year. In order not to waste time, you need to carefully and competently perform the following operations:

During autumn pruning, prepare the correct shanks;
Store the chibuki in a ventilated basement during the winter cold;
While storing cuttings, you need to germinate them so that they have roots by spring;
After weak white roots appear, they need to be strengthened, that is, rooted in the soil.
There is also the so-called lazy way of rooting chibouks. It takes little time and effort, but the results are excellent. A lazy gardener only needs to perform the following simple manipulations:

Soak cuttings cut in autumn in rain water (required) for 24 hours;
After this, the cuttings need to be soaked in a root formation stimulator or in a product based on indolyl butyric acid;
Cut the lower section of the cutting vertically to a distance of 3-4 cm;
Pour the cutting prepared in this way with liquid wax or paraffin and wrap it in burlap, previously moistened with water;
Such a seedling should “look out” at two buds from a plastic bag, where it should be placed for winter storage;
Of course, you need to monitor the condition of future grape bushes, this means soil moisture, the possibility of mold, etc.

Another, laziest way to grow grapes

There is another effective and uncomplicated way to grow crops from chibouks. This option consists in the fact that the cut chibouks should be kept in a humid environment throughout the winter, but in no case over-moistened.

The main condition for the success of this method is moderate soil moisture and lack of lighting if the cuttings are in the basement. These factors slow down the growth of buds, and at the same time the fruit buds grow along with the horses.

The easiest way

Let's discuss the simplest method, especially for a novice winegrower. After all, every plant can reproduce without our participation. You just have to stick the cutting into fertile soil at a convenient time - and that’s it. Mother nature will do everything herself. I have a lot of such bushes in my vineyard. And the harvest is good.

This method is usually successful in the southern regions, but with good care - careful shelter for the winter, it is possible to grow grapes a little further north.

Rules for rooting grape cuttings

For experienced gardeners involved in cultivating vineyards, there are strict, time-tested techniques for growing seedlings from chibouks:

Firstly, the best time for rooting plants is considered to be the stage of rapid vegetative growth of young green branches or the beginning of the active development of lignified stems at the end of the dormant period;

Secondly, the cutting is cut directly under the bud, and the leaves are removed from the cut shoot.

If juice is released abundantly at the cut site, the shank should be dried a little or in the first 3-4 days after placing it in water, the liquid should be changed more often.

Thirdly, in the room where the germinating chibouks are located, it is necessary to ensure high constant air humidity, and to prevent stagnation of water in the soil substrate. The substrate should be prepared or purchased well aerated.

Prohibited actions when rooting seedlings

Winegrowers, in addition to the mandatory rules for growing crops, have three prohibitions that must be strictly observed.

You cannot use stimulants for varieties that root successfully on their own. In this case, the effect may well turn out to be the opposite, and even according to all the rules, the cut cuttings will die;
Fertilizer must be applied carefully when the plant has just begun to take root. And it’s even better not to use chemical or organic fertilizers at all during this period;
You cannot use fertilizers containing indolylbutyric acid, which gardeners mistakenly add to the substrate for the active growth of new roots.

Rooting chibouks on a bush

Owners of suburban dacha plots practice rooting grape cuttings directly in a city apartment. This method is not very convenient, because in a small home there is always a shortage of free space.

Plastic cut-off bottles with bunches of cuttings do not decorate the apartment at all. In addition, there is a risk of accidentally knocking over the container, making puddles, or leaving a stain on the ceiling of the neighbor below.

It is not so easy to prepare or buy a good substrate. What about lighting and constant humidification? In the basement these issues can be resolved much easier.

I use another effective and reliable rooting method. Approximately in the middle of summer, on an old bush or one that I don’t like according to its characteristics, I cut down the shoot with the inflorescence, remove the bark from it at a distance of 1 - 1.5 cm, and the stepsons and leaves on the entire branch below the cut.

In the cutting area, I cut through the bark 3-4 centimeters vertically to the growth of the shoot. This operation promotes root growth.

In place of the cut, I place a plastic transparent bottle cut from the top and bottom, neck down, and seal the distance between the shoot and the neck with a rag.

I fill the bottle from the bottom with vermiculite and water it in moderation. In the place where the bark is removed from the branch, roots grow by mid-September. All that remains is to cut the cuttings and plant them in the ground.

If grape bushes are damaged by late frosts in the spring, do not despair; the plant can be restored not only by uprooting and planting new seedlings.

The bush is reborn with the help of shoots that grow from dormant buds on perennial branches.

The grapes do not need to be touched for about 2 weeks, and when 2-3 shoots appear on the bush, they are pressed to the ground, giving a horizontal position, which will cause the growth of young stepsons. The dead areas of the plant are then removed without leaving stumps.

If there are a large number of young shoots, the weak ones are removed, leaving 3 to 5 strong, healthy vines.

After the “therapeutic” measures for plants damaged by frost are completed, I carry out corrective pruning of the grapes.