How to make sliding gates: step-by-step instructions with drawings. Do-it-yourself sliding gates drawings and design How to make and install sliding gates

All you need for this is the appropriate tools and the ability to understand drawings and diagrams. With some diligence, the finished result will look and function no worse than a factory-made design. Such gates can be successfully manufactured and installed at the dacha, in a country house, in a parking lot, etc.

As you already understand, we are talking about cantilever-type gates, the panel of which moves on roller supports. There is another design option - rail, which is considered obsolete today, and we will not consider it. And for those who are interested in a cantilever (sliding) structure, we offer detailed instructions for its installation, which includes a set of works on preparing the gate opening, laying out the foundation and the installation sequence.

DIY sliding gates, concrete base or piles

Video on how to make sliding gates with your own hands

Sliding gate device

  • The guide is integral with the gate leaf and takes the entire load from its weight;
  • Roller support (trolley) – 2 pieces, the gates in the console part are installed on them;
  • The end roller is removable - serves as a support for the edge of the gate when closed;
  • Lower catcher – takes the load from the support roller when the gate is closed;
  • Upper catcher – reduces the windage of the gate when closed;
  • Bracket (upper clamp with rollers) – holds the sash against lateral swings;
  • Stand – supports are mounted on it to ensure movement of the gate leaf.

The process of manufacturing and installing sliding gates with your own hands involves constructing a foundation. A guide beam is welded to the lower edge of the sash, the load from which is taken by two roller supports installed on the foundation. It is thanks to them that the gate leaf moves in the desired direction.

The support rollers are located inside the supporting console. Gates of this design can be automatic (operated by an electric drive) or opened manually. They are very convenient to use at any time of the year.

Gate leaf requirements

In order for the structure to remain stable and rigid during strong winds, its sash must be sufficiently rigid to withstand wind loads.

Also, the canvas should not sag under its own weight.

It is better to purchase high-quality metal for the gate leaf, without signs of corrosion, and in satisfactory condition. The total required amount of metal and reinforcement can be calculated from the drawings.


Gate drawings


From different manufacturers you can find many different models of sliding gates. It is not difficult to find their drawings, if desired, including on the Internet. We offer you the best, in our opinion, option from a technical and financial point of view.

The gate leaf is made of a metal pipe. The frame will require a profile pipe 60x40x2 mm; for lathing – 20x20x1.5 mm. We suggest using a drawing with which you can make a frame for sliding gates with an opening width of 4 m.

After the frame is ready, a guide beam should be welded to it, which can be purchased ready-made from our company, which sells components for do-it-yourself sliding gates. After this, the frame is primed and painted in the desired color with metal paint.

A- opening width; B- guide length (opening width + 40%); Pipe - 60x40 mm.(main frame); Pipe - 20x20 mm.(lathing);

Gate painting

The first step is to prepare surfaces for painting and degrease them. For this purpose, you need to clean the surfaces with sandpaper or treat them with a grinder and a grinding disc. Cleaned areas should be wiped with acetone. You can start priming.

The primer must be applied evenly to the surface, avoiding streaks and drops whenever possible. After the primer layer has completely dried, the paint layer is applied. Such a thorough approach will ensure that the paint will lie smoothly and the structure itself will not be subject to corrosion.

The second paint layer is applied after the first has completely dried. If the result is not very aesthetic, you can paint it a third time. The time for complete drying may vary depending on the time of year and range from several hours to 2-5 days. Once painting is complete, you can proceed to further steps.







Selection of components

The selection criteria in this case are the width of the opening, the height of the gate leaf, and their total weight. The main element of the gate, on which its reliability and performance depends, is the guide.

The key to efficiency when installing sliding gates with your own hands is the correct selection of components, which are present in our catalog in the form of ready-made kits:

  • Russian – Roltek and Doorhan
  • Italian – Came
  • Belarusian – Alutech

The selection of components should be carried out taking into account the following requirements: The total length of the gate leaf is calculated using the formula “opening width + 40%”. The components are selected according to the length of the guide beam and the permissible load.


Calculation example

For example, the width of the opening is 3.8 m. Therefore, the length of the gate leaf will be equal to 3.8 m + 40%, i.e. 5.32 m. In this case, you can buy a standard set with a 6 m guide. Usually, when the opening width does not exceed 4 m, ready-made sets of components are purchased, designed for a load of up to 500 kg. The guide beam in them has a cross-section of 71x65 mm and a wall thickness of 3.5 mm.

If the opening width exceeds 5 m, a set of components designed for more severe loads exceeding 600 kg is required. In such cases, before purchasing a ready-made set, it makes sense to consult with the company’s specialists for the optimal choice.

Installation of sliding gates

Having a certain understanding of the design of gates and the features of their installation, you can carry out independent installation. The movement of the canvas occurs from the inside of the site, along the fence (fence). Therefore, first of all, you need to take care of the place where the sash will roll back so that there are no obstacles in its path.

We suggest you consider the option of rolling the canvas to the right. The distance required to roll back the gate leaf is equal to the width of the opening plus the size of the cantilever part, which, in turn, is about half the width of the opening. If this requirement is met, the process of opening and closing the gate will not cause problems. The cantilever part itself does not close the opening, but acts as a counterweight.

Sequence of work

  • Foundation construction: pit development, soil excavation, installation of a foundation element, concreting;
  • Cabling arrangement (if it is planned to install automatic gates);
  • Installation of gates and return posts;
  • Automation installation, gate testing.

Construction of a concrete foundation

1st stage

In order to mark the hole for the foundation, you need to set aside a distance equal to ½ the width of the passage in the direction the gate rolls away, along the fence of the site, starting from the edge of the gate opening. This will be the location for our concrete base (length). Step back approximately half a meter from the fence towards the site - this will be its width. Thus, we will have the perimeter of the future foundation.

In some cases, fence posts can be used as support posts for sliding gates. If this is not possible, a counter post must be provided. The hole for it is located on the opposite side of the opening, strictly opposite the hole for the foundation. This is done taking into account that the return post adjoins the fence from the inside and does not reduce the width of the opening.

If you plan to make automatic sliding gates with your own hands, it is necessary to provide conditions for laying the electrical cable under the driveway. You will need a plastic or metal pipe with a diameter of at least 25 mm.

2nd stage

Excavation is usually carried out to a depth of at least 2 m, i.e. exceeding the freezing depth. As for the Moscow region, where the freezing depth is less, it is enough to remove the soil from the hole under the foundation at a depth of 1.7-1.8 m.

3rd stage

In order to make an embedded element, you will need a section of channel 16, along the length of the hole for the concrete foundation. The reinforcing grid and ties can be made from reinforcement d 12. The sequence of actions is as follows: first, sections of reinforcement are welded to the channel, then transverse ties (see image).


4th stage

The finished embedded element is placed in the hole with the reinforcement down, so as to ensure a tight fit of the side surface of the channel to the fence post. You should use a level to make sure that the body of the channel is fixed in a strictly horizontal position, parallel to the gate opening line.

Important point

The height of the top of the embedded element in relation to the plane of the road surface. If they are located at the same level, then the minimum gap between the road and the bottom edge of the gate will be about 100 mm. Using the adjustment pads, you can slightly increase this gap. But it is not possible to reduce it without compromising the manufacturability of the fastening.


If the standard gap size of 100 mm is not suitable for some reason, a deeper installation of the embedded element is required.

When it is planned to install fixed sliding gates with an opening width of more than 4.5 m, two support pillars will be needed in order to ensure stable operation of the gate and its ability to withstand windage during opening and closing. Also, in some cases, existing fence posts cannot be used as supports for sliding gates.

In such cases, you will need to prepare one or two support pillars, the size of which is calculated as the height from the foundation to the top point of the gate plus 50 mm. The finished structures are installed in the pit and connected in the lower part with the embedded element (see figure).


5th stage

Concreting for DIY sliding gates performed after the final installation of the embedded element. The pit is filled with concrete mortar so that the level of concrete is higher than the surface of the embedded element. The hardening time is at least six days.

1st stage

Marking the line of movement of the sash is carried out as follows. A cord is pulled along the line of the gate opening, 2-3 cm short of the return post. This will be the trajectory of the sash movement. The cord should be pulled at a height of 15-20 cm.


2nd stage

The figure shows how to fix the adjustment pads on the trolley platform.


3rd stage

Now it is necessary to determine the extreme positions of the first and second roller bearings. Step back 150 mm from the edge of the opening along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the extreme position of the first trolley. Draw the tangent of the second trolley as follows: measure the length of the gate together with the console part and set aside this length, minus 100 mm, from the edge of the counter post along the plane of the embedded element. We obtain the extreme position of the second cart.

4th stage

The gate is assembled as follows. Insert the roller supports one by one into the supporting profile, placing them in the center. Bring the gate to a vertical position, move both supports to their tangents, and install the gate close to the cord.


5th stage

Actually, we are installing it. The adjustment pads of the second trolley must be welded, after which the sash must be completely rolled out into the opening and its position must be finally adjusted. After this, weld the adjustment pads of the second cart.

  • Remove the canvas from the roller carts;
  • Remove the trolleys themselves from the adjustment platforms;
  • Weld the platforms to the embedded element;
  • Attach roller carts to them;
  • Push the sliding gate leaf onto the roller trolleys;
  • Close the gate;
  • Use a wrench to make final adjustments to the gate position.


6th stage

To ensure that the roller carriages are installed correctly inside the supporting profile, you need to perform the following steps. Loosen the top nuts securing the trolleys to the platforms and roll the gate back and forth several times, from one extreme position to the other. After making sure that the gate moves freely, you should tighten the nuts and make sure that the quality of the gate movement remains at the proper level.

If you find that the web is moving with difficulty, it is necessary to slightly loosen the fasteners and correct the distortions of the roller carts, especially in the plane perpendicular to the movement of the web.

7th stage

At this stage you need to install the end roller. We insert it inside the supporting profile and tighten the fastening bolts. We weld the end roller cover to the profile so that the roller reliably plays the role of an end stop during manual movement of the door leaf. The welding point in this case will be a more reliable fastening than a bolted connection.

The support profile plug is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. This element is needed to prevent snow from getting inside the supporting profile in winter. Otherwise, the snow will be rolled away by the rollers of the trolley, and this may lead to jamming of the gate. When installing DIY sliding gates this point must be taken into account.


8th stage

Now you need to install the upper clamp with rollers. To do this, loosen the fasteners of the rollers and install the bracket above the gate leaf so that its side with the holes is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the gate leaf.

Press the bracket against the post and secure it. Bring the gate to a vertical position, aligning it with a level, and secure it with the rollers of the upper lock.


9th stage

If you plan to sheathe the sliding gate leaf, you can use, for example, a profiled sheet for these purposes, having previously ordered it cut to the required dimensions. Installation of the profiled sheet should be carried out from the front edge of the door leaf. Attaching it to the gate frame can be done in two ways: using self-tapping screws or by riveting, however, the second method is more reliable.

The second sheet is mounted overlapping with the first (overlaid on one wave and secured). Thus, it is necessary to install the required number of profiled sheets until the door leaf is completely covered. The last sheet will most likely have to be trimmed further in order for it to fit within the perimeter.

10th stage

After the gate trim is completed, you can begin installing the catchers - upper and lower. Since the role of the lower catcher is to reduce the load on the roller carts when the gate is closed, it is installed when the gate is fully loaded. With the gate completely closed, you need to bring the lower catcher under the end roller so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller.

The upper catcher is installed in such a way that when the gate is closed, its upper brackets touch the protective corners of the front edge of the gate leaf.


Stage 11

On DIY sliding gates you can install automation. In this case, the movement of the sash will be carried out using an electric drive. For this purpose, a toothed rack is attached to the door leaf - a universal part that is compatible with electric drives for gates of all manufacturers. Such a rail is usually included in the kit of fasteners.

The gate automation kit usually comes with installation instructions, which you should follow.

Automation selection

Automation for sliding gates – more freedom, more comfort!

Don't want to manually open and close your sliding gate?

A remote controlled drive will allow you to do this without leaving the car.

Tools and equipment

To manufacture and install sliding gates you will need:

  • Welding machine, preferably an inverter one. It does not damage the metal and ensures optimal weld quality.
  • Grinder with discs of various types. With its help you can cut metal blanks for gates.
  • An air compressor that will ensure uniform painting of the gate. If it is not available, you can paint the gate with a regular roller.
  • Pliers, hammer, drill, tape measure, level, riveter.

If you have any questions regarding the installation of sliding gates, or would like to find out the cost of installation services, please contact us by phone.

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For a long time, sliding gates were used only in industrial buildings, as it was believed that their design was complex. With the advent of new technical solutions and a wide selection of components, they began to gain popularity among developers. Nowadays, the installation of sliding gates has become so simplified that their installation can be done with your own hands.

Sliding gate device

Sliding gates

The design of sliding gates consists of a plane, or panel, which can move in a horizontal plane along rollers. Such gates are also called sliding or sliding gates.

Such a structure allows for rational use of space: there are no oversized doors, as in swing gates. The structure moves along the fence, so a minimum area is required for its operation. The device does not require laying rails, which eliminates contact with the ground surface. This is important in winter when snow falls.

The standard design of sliding gates provides for mechanical opening and is available for independent implementation. Modern designs are equipped with an automated drive, which makes their use more comfortable, but significantly increases the cost.

The ease of operation of such gates, as well as their reliability and durability, make them widely popular among developers. The design can be assembled from materials of different cost and texture, which makes it possible to create original gates without loss of quality and functionality.


Element names

If you decide to build gates equipped with automation, you can easily purchase ready-made units at specialized retail outlets. Such systems are controlled manually or remotely. Install automatic switches for general protection, install an alarm system that operates synchronously with the drive.

Selection of gate parts

The correct choice of components for sliding gates during self-assembly determines the reliability and durability of the structure. The gate consists of the following main elements:

  • roller carriages;
  • guide;
  • holders and traps.

Sliding gates

Before selecting sliding gate hardware, determine the space required for sliding gates. The choice of material is influenced by the load; it depends on the dimensions and weight of the product.

Sliding gates are classified depending on the size of the opening and weight:

  • small (width up to 4 m and weight up to 0.4 t);
  • medium (up to 6 m and 0.6 t);
  • large (from 6 m and over 0.6 t).

If the gate belongs to the category with a weight of up to 400 kg, then the use of lightweight materials is allowed: corrugated board or siding. There are no additional requirements for fittings. With a massive gate structure, reinforced auxiliary elements must be used.

A mandatory requirement for the frame is its rigidity. This is due to the fact that in addition to normal loads there is increased windage. In order to reduce weight, a profile pipe is widely used, and when choosing a material, the material is guided by its ability to withstand its own weight without deformation.

Pouring the foundation

Installation of sliding gates requires the construction of a foundation. Its construction begins with markings. To determine the length of the base, half the size of the opening is measured from the extreme point. The width of the foundation is about half a meter.

If the fence structure is completely constructed, then its pillars can be used as supports. Otherwise, installation of a counter support is necessary. Moreover, the hole for it is made adjacent to the inside of the fence, but without reducing the width of the opening.

If you plan to install automation, then it is necessary to provide for the laying of the power cable. According to the rules for safe electrical installation work, it is placed in a pipe.

When excavating soil for the foundation, the depth of freezing is taken into account: the foundation pit is made below this level.

It is recommended to construct a foundation based on an embedded part. It is used as channel No. 16, to which pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm are welded at right angles. Then a grid of reinforcement of the same size is welded to the structure.

After assembling the embedded element, it is immersed in the pit so that the free ends of the reinforcement are directed downward. In this case, the end of the channel should be in close contact with the fence post. The work is carried out with constant monitoring of the horizontal position of the channel.

The installation of the embedded part takes into account its position in relation to the horizon of the road surface. If they are at the same level, then the distance from the bottom of the roadbed to the road surface will be about 100 mm. If necessary, it can be increased slightly by using special pads for adjustment.

Reducing the gap will lead to an unacceptable violation of the fastening technology.

When the opening width exceeds 4.5 m, the installation of two support pillars is required. This will provide the necessary rigidity of the structure and make it possible to work in conditions of high windage of the canvas.

The pillars have a height that is equal to the distance from the foundation to the top point of the gate plus 50 mm. To increase rigidity, the lower part of the supports and the mortgage are connected by welding.

When pouring concrete, the embedded part should not be completely covered. After this, the concrete takes about three weeks to harden and gain operational properties.

Step-by-step instructions for installing sliding gates

Carriage with rollers

First, they designate the trajectory along which the gate will move. A stretched cord acts as a beacon. It is positioned so that the distance from the roadway is 200 mm, and 30 mm away from the location of the return post. In this case, the cord plays the role of a guide for the correct location of the supporting profile.

The carriages with rollers prepared for installation are inserted into the supporting profile and shifted to the central part of the gate. Then the sash with carriages is installed in the embedded channel. After this, the supports are installed and adjusted so that they touch the cord. In this case, the parallelism and relativity of both surfaces must be maintained.

Fastening roller trolleys to the channel

When installing sliding gates, a critical step is the correct fixation of the roller carriages. During this process, the following order must be followed.

The platform for adjusting the second carriage is connected by welding to the channel.

After this, having rolled the gate into the opening, the steps are repeated and the platform of the first roller support is mounted.

The roller carriages are dismantled from their supports, which are then also removed from the platforms intended for adjustment.

After this, the embedded part is welded along the perimeter with the adjustment pads and the roller supports are mounted to them. After this, the supports are connected and attached to the canvas.

To adjust the structure horizontally, the gate is completely closed.

The process consists of screwing or loosening the fastening of the platform with a wrench, which leads to the structure changing and adopting the required position.


Roller carriages and accessories

Free play adjustment

The roller supports are adjusted by loosening the nuts connecting the part to the adjustment pad. Having loosened the fastening, it is necessary to move the gate several times in the closing and opening directions. In this way, the supports find a position that corresponds to their unhindered and easy movement. Upon completion of the adjustment, the previously loose fasteners are securely tightened.

Installation of end roller and plugs

The location of the end roller is the front side of the profile. A bolted connection is used to secure it.

The sliding gate kit includes a plug, which is located on the rear of the profile. It is fixed by welding. The function of this element is to prevent the penetration of foreign objects and sediments into the cavity of the supporting part, which allows for trouble-free operation of the mechanism.

To install the top guide, you must first loosen the rollers. After this, the bracket is mounted touching the rollers and the top of the canvas so that the mounting holes face the support post. The parts are pressed against each other and secured with a threaded connection.

Sheathing the gate leaf with corrugated sheets

Having completed all the activities described above, you can begin installing the corrugated sheeting on the frame, which is a frame. Before this, the sheets are marked and cut depending on the dimensions of the sliding gate.


Gates covered with corrugated sheets

The front edge of the gate is chosen as the starting point for attaching the profiled sheets. Self-tapping screws or rivets are used as fasteners. Moreover, the latter are preferable, since they are less susceptible to corrosion. The sequence of laying corrugated sheets involves superimposing subsequent waves into the previous sheet.

Installation of catchers

The final stage of assembling sliding gates with your own hands is the installation of catchers. The lower one is mounted after the gate is fully assembled, that is, under the influence of maximum forces. It absorbs part of the load, which facilitates the work of the roller bearings. The location of its installation is determined with the gate completely closed, and the catcher and the end roller must be aligned.

The task of the upper catcher is to prevent vibrations of the web due to the influence of wind. The position of the protective corners serves as a guide for its installation location. In this case, the latter are installed so that the catcher brackets touch them.


DIY gate installation

Self-installation of automation

To install automatic sliding gates with your own hands, you need general knowledge in the field of electrical engineering. If existing knowledge is not enough, the accompanying documentation supplied with the drive will help in solving this problem.

Even during the design period, gate designs are determined by their type. In the case of installing automatic gates, when pouring the base of the structure, cables are laid. For this purpose, special holes are made in the channel.


Gate parts (automation)

The path of wiring and placement of automation elements is marked on the supports. Next, the wires are mounted in accordance with the designated route.

An important parameter that determines the quality of the assembly of the structure is the size of the gap between the gear and the rack teeth: it must correspond to the value specified by the manufacturer in the instructions.

When installing the rack, please note that it is supplied one meter long. Therefore, when joining its sections, it is necessary that a whole tooth is obtained at the joints, which will prevent jamming when moving the blade.

The crucial step is connecting the gate to the automation. It is recommended that as you connect structural elements, you immediately monitor the performance of the system. If this is not done, then difficulties will subsequently arise in determining the area where the error was made.

A good, reliable fence with a beautiful gate not only protects a suburban area from uninvited guests, but also gives a clear idea of ​​its boundaries. To make the fence more convenient and practical, its gates are equipped with devices that simplify their opening and make this process automatic. One of the most popular designs is a system with a mechanism that allows you to move the fence to the side. Today, many companies are engaged in installing sliding gates, but we suggest making them yourself.

Design and principle of operation of sliding gates

Depending on the type and location of the supporting surface, sliding gates are divided into rail and roller, but since the latter have a more reliable design, systems with a bottom rail guide are practically not used today. As for the mechanism with support rollers, it is not difficult to assemble it yourself, since all components can be purchased at a retail chain or made independently.

The previously popular sliding gates with a bottom guide rail have today been replaced by a more reliable design with support rollers

This gate can be built in two ways:

  • monoscreen,
  • double synchronous design.

A monoscreen is a structure of one leaf, which rests on roller guides (carts or cantilever supports) installed on the side of the opening. The gates move along them to one side, opening up space for cars to pass through. This system does not require an upper banner between the pillars and is used when the height of the canvas is no more than 2 meters. The simplicity and convenience of a monoscreen contribute to its popularity for arranging private areas, open areas and courtyards.

Roller sliding gate diagram

Double synchronous gates have a pair of leaves that slide in opposite directions. Unlike a monoscreen, the structure has two supporting foundations and an upper beam, which serves as a guide for additional rollers. The cantilever system is capable of supporting increased weight of the leaf, therefore it is used for gates with a height of more than 2 meters. It is a good option for equipping garages for trucks and high hangars, various warehouses, industrial facilities, etc.

Since the need to install high gates in a private courtyard rarely arises, we will further consider single systems. Among other things, such sliding gates have a simplified design, so they are more suitable for making them yourself.

Roller trolleys are the main supporting elements of the structure

In addition to the guide and roller supports (cantilever blocks or trolleys), several other elements ensure the operability of the structure.

  1. Lower and upper catcher. They are U-shaped brackets installed on the edges of a catching post (support, rack) and designed to fix the gate in a closed state. The upper catcher prevents the sash from falling to one side, while the lower lock, in addition to this function, also relieves the load on the rollers and guide.

    Catchers are made of thick metal, because the reliability of fixing the gate in the closed position depends on them

  2. Support rail or bracket (roller stop). It is installed along the upper edge of the main post and serves for additional fixation of the canvas.

    Support bracket assembly with rollers

  3. Support roller. Attached to the front end of the guide and serves as a plug, damper and support element. When the sash enters the lower catcher, it softens the blow and takes on part of the weight of the structure.

    Support roller with rubber damping pad

In addition, some parts of the system are equipped with plugs that prevent snow accumulation and serve as decorative elements.

Design Features

Before you start purchasing materials, you should draw up at least a small drawing or sketch indicating the main dimensions and calculation of the required material.

Canvas dimensions

One of the main issues in gate design is determining the width and other dimensions of the structure. First of all, you should determine the distance between the gate posts, since all further calculations depend on this value. This takes into account:

  • the size of vehicles that will enter the site;
  • vehicle entry angle;
  • free gap between the overall width of the car and the gate supports, which should be 0.3–0.5 m on each side.

For middle-class passenger cars, a gate with a width of 2.5–3 m will be sufficient, while a truck or tractor requires an opening of at least 3.5 meters.

Design and dimensions of the sliding gate leaf with a frame for a metal profile

If movement perpendicular to the fence line is difficult and entry at an angle is required, then this value must be increased by another 1.5 times. But we must also take into account the fact that for any reason (slippery surface, inexperienced driver, improperly secured load) the car may shift or tilt to the side. Therefore, the optimal gate width can be considered to be about 4.5 m - this will be enough for any situation.

When calculating the width of the canvas, add 20 cm to the size of the opening. This must be done so that when the gate is closed on the side of the support rollers, the yard is not visible through the gap. If this possibility was not taken into account during the manufacture of the sash, then you can get out of the situation by slightly moving the pillars towards each other. When determining the height of the gate, many believe that it should be the same as that of the fence, but usually the leaf is made a little smaller. This is due to the fact that the lower edge of the fence is installed with a minimum gap from the level of the site, while the sash does not touch the ground and is installed with a gap of about 10 cm.

Drawing of a sliding gate leaf without a frame for an infill profile

In fact, the distance between the lower guide and the level of the yard is adjusted using support platforms, which set the height of the roller carts. Depending on their position, the doors rise above the site to a height of 10 to 15 cm.

In addition, the height of the canvas is influenced by the dimensions of the frame of its frame and the width of the lower guide. In order for the gate to end up on the same level as the fence, when designing it is necessary to take into account all these nuances and make an accurate calculation.

Drawings and diagrams

The basis of the design of sliding gates is a guide that moves along cantilever blocks.

To prevent the support rollers from obstructing the passage, they are moved behind the side clearance. In this case, the sash is lengthened due to a special slope that acts as a counterweight. You can avoid distortion when closing sliding gates if the length of the slope is equal to ½ the width of the gate.

The entire load during operation of the mechanism is taken by the roller carts, so their installation requires a strong, reliable foundation. The foundation is made in the form of a massive reinforced concrete structure with an upper foundation platform made of a wide metal channel. In the future, it will be convenient to use not only for mounting roller bearings, but also for attaching the automation drive.

The recoil type has a very simple design. Understanding the operating mechanism is enough to independently draw up the necessary sketches and make calculations. Nevertheless, we present to your attention diagrams and design drawings that will serve as visual aids and help in the work. Among other things, you can take one of the finished projects as a basis for making sliding gates yourself.

Drawings for manufacturing

Installation diagram for the manufacture of sliding gates Roller support drawing Drawing of a blade with a guide rail Support bracket drawing Installation diagram of the laying platform Block diagram of sliding gates End roller drawing Specification of sliding gate design details Drawing of a guide with a roller assembly

What you will need to build it yourself

When starting to build a gate, you need to have a set of components (accessories), which can be purchased as a set or made independently. As for tools, you don’t need any specific devices - everything you need can be found even by a novice home craftsman.

Selecting parts for the recoil mechanism

There are several options for components for sliding gates, depending on the width of the opening and the weight load:

  • for gates weighing up to 400 kg and width no more than 4 m;
  • for canvases weighing up to 600 kg and a width of no more than 6 m;
  • for sashes weighing from 600 kg and width 6 m or more.

When choosing one or another set for your needs, you should definitely take into account the filling material of the leaf, because it has a significant impact on the weight of the sash.

The creation kit consists of the following parts:

  • bottom guide;
  • support bracket with rollers;
  • roller support - 2 pcs.;
  • roller platform support stand - 2 pcs.;
  • support (end) roller;
  • lower and upper catchers;
  • plastic plugs.

The guide of the lower rollers must be rigid enough to maintain its original shape and not deform under wind load. To ensure this condition, responsible manufacturers make the rail from high-quality structural steel with a thickness of at least 3.6 mm - this parameter should be taken into account when choosing it.

Set of accessories for assembling sliding gates

Since the entire mass of the gate is supported by roller carriages, their bearings must be of high quality, and the rolling surfaces themselves must have high hardness. On sale you can find cantilever blocks with plastic rollers that reduce the noise level when the gate moves. Keep in mind that these parts will have to be replaced after some time, as even the highest quality thermoplastics are no match for case-hardened steel. Before installation, it is recommended to open the support roller bearings to check the amount of lubricant - this determines whether the gate will creak when moving, and how long these parts will work without play or jamming.

The sash is secured from above by a supporting bracket. To ensure the stability and reliability of the structure, its thickness must be at least 4 mm. As for the guides installed on it, rubber rollers have proven themselves to be the best. The load on them is not that great, but the fact that they do not scratch the gate frame during operation has a positive effect on the aesthetics of the structure.

When choosing a lower catcher, keep in mind that it works in tandem with a support roller. Be sure to check how freely the end switch fits into the latch. In addition, the end roller is designed to redistribute the load when the gate is closed, so the same requirements are imposed on it as on the main supporting elements of the system.

The metal plate from which the catchers are made must have a thickness of at least 4 mm, since the reliability of fixing the sash in the closed position depends on its quality. In addition, the strength of these parts must be ensured by the welding connection.

Any guide rail plugs will do. The main thing is that they prevent the ingress of snow and perform a decorative function.

The choice of material for lining depends entirely on personal preferences and financial capabilities, so you can use:

  • corrugated sheeting, which is lightweight and easy to install using rivets or self-tapping screws. Profile panels can be selected according to thickness, color, depth and width of the wave, and their coating can protect the metal from corrosion for many years;
  • steel sheets - selected by thickness and size. Most often used as a basis for forged gate elements;
  • polycarbonate, with which the gate will be the lightest;
  • picket fence or lining - they must be treated with antiseptic agents and coated with varnish or paint. Only in this case can you count on the durability and aesthetic appearance of lumber;
  • forging - can be used either alone or in combination with polycarbonate, lumber or steel sheets. Today in the retail chain you can buy individual forged elements, from which, using welding, it is easy to build a real work of blacksmith art;
  • panel (chocolate) - to obtain it, metal sheets are stamped. You can find “chocolate bars” of various sizes on sale. They are attached to the frame by welding or rivets.

When using forging, steel sheets or panels to cover the door, you should take into account the significant increase in the weight of the gate when choosing roller supports and other structural elements.

On sale you can find panels of various sizes, which allows you to create gates of original design

What tools and materials will be needed

The construction of sliding gates will require not only plumbing, but also concrete work, so you should prepare:

  • shovel;
  • crowbar or pickaxe;
  • tamper;
  • containers for bulk materials and concrete;
  • welding machine;
  • grinder (angle grinder or angle grinder);
  • cutting and grinding wheel for angle grinders;
  • hammer;
  • screwdriver;
  • set of open-end wrenches;
  • roulette;
  • scriber or pencil;
  • a compressor with a spray bottle or brushes for painting.

If the sash trim will be made not of metal, but of wood, then you may need a circular or miter saw, a plane, a chisel and other carpentry tools.

Profile steel pipes are best suited for the manufacture of gate leaves.

In addition to components and cladding elements, you will need many other materials. So, to make a sliding gate for a 4-meter opening, you will need to bring to the site:

  • at least 18 meters of profile pipe 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm with a wall of 2 mm - for welding the frame frame;
  • up to 20 linear meters of pipe 40x20x2 mm, which will be needed for the internal parts of the frame;
  • channel No. 20 with a length of at least 2 m - for the construction of an embedded support platform for roller guides;
    Instead of a channel, you can use two pieces of steel angle with a flange 100 mm long, which are welded along the length. It is not recommended to install embeds only under the carriages of roller supports, as well as to concrete the studs - in this case it will be difficult to align the rollers and adjust the automatic closing device (drive).
  • thick sheet metal for flashings - mortgages, which are installed in the masonry during the construction of side supports (pillars);
  • about 15 m of reinforcement or steel bar with a diameter of 10–12 mm, which will be needed for fastening the channel and constructing the foundation;
  • sand, crushed stone and cement for preparing concrete.

You should take care in advance about the aesthetics of the structure, so to paint the frame or the entire canvas you will need paint and a primer. Any alkyd enamel for exterior use and primer for metal surfaces are suitable.

Step-by-step installation of sliding gates

The correct approach to the manufacture of sliding gates will allow you to obtain a strong, reliable design and avoid errors in operation. Therefore, it is better to divide the whole process into several stages:

  • construction of support pillars;
  • arrangement of the foundation;
  • production of canvas and individual structural elements;
  • installation of the structure.

To achieve success, everything must be done according to the work plan. Each step must be accompanied by control of geometry and other technological parameters. Only in this case can you count on the fact that even a child will be able to open the gate.

Installation of pillars

Installation of support pillars is one of the most critical stages, since in the future they will be responsible for the stability of the entire structure. Racks can be made from various materials - oak timber, solid metal, brick or concrete. It is recommended to concrete the pillars to a depth of at least 1 m, and in areas with high groundwater levels to build a common foundation for all structural elements of sliding gates.

Diagram of sliding gate support structures

If metal pipes are used for the racks, then installing the catchers and support rail does not cause difficulties - they can be secured by welding. In the case when the pillars are made of stone or brick, it is necessary to install mortgages in the masonry. These fasteners are metal platforms made of thick sheet steel, to which pieces of a metal rod or thick wire are welded. During the construction of pillars, flexible elements are laid in the seams, installing the strips at the required height.

So, to install the support posts, they dig a hole with a diameter of at least 0.5 m and a depth of more than 1 meter, into which the pillar is installed. Next, level it using a level and fill it with concrete. For reliability, several crossbars made from pieces of angle iron, pipes, fittings, etc. can be welded to the lower part of the metal rack.

Construction of the foundation

Before starting installation work, it is necessary to mark the foundation of the support platform and prepare a foundation pit for its arrangement. For these purposes, 0.5 m is retreated from the plane of the fence - this will be the width of the trench. The foundation should be 20–30 cm longer than the sash counterweight.

If automation is used to open the gate, then even at the stage of installing the pillars and constructing the foundation, electrical cables are laid in the ground. To protect them, a corrugated plastic casing is used.

A channel up to 20 cm wide is used as a foundation. Its length is equal to half the width of the opening plus an allowance of 10–20 cm for installing roller support platforms. To ensure the solidity of the mortgage, it is reinforced with a frame made of reinforcement.

Drawing of the foundation of the support platform

The foundation is built like this:

  • dig a trench 1–1.5 m deep. On sandy soils, as well as with a high groundwater level, the bottom of the pit should be below the freezing point;
  • rods are cut from a metal rod or reinforcement: long 1–1.5 m (according to the depth of the trench) and short 0.2 m. The latter will be needed half as much - they will be used as jumpers;
  • long pieces of reinforcement are welded to the side shelves of the channel at a distance of 30 cm from each other, obtaining a structure similar to a bench with many legs;
  • opposite rods are connected in pairs using 20-centimeter jumpers at a distance of 0.7–0.8 m from the channel;
  • The embedded structure is lowered into the trench, leveling the channel to the height of the site.

    The channel must be aligned strictly horizontally so that its upper plane coincides with the level of the roadway. If tiles, concrete or asphalt pavement is still being planned, then an increase in the height of the driveway must be taken into account.

  • install formwork and armored belt;
  • pour concrete and compact it thoroughly.

According to the technology, the foundation must stand for 28 days for the concrete to reach brand strength.

Arrangement of the foundation of the support platform

Making the sash

To manufacture the load-bearing frame of the gate leaf, profile metal pipes with a cross-section of at least 50x50 mm are used. In order not to get a sash that is driven by a “propeller”, it is necessary to arrange a platform with a strictly horizontal plane. To do this, choose a wide, flat place and lay wooden slats or bars on the ground with small gaps. Level control is carried out using a laser or bubble tool and a construction cord.

It is convenient to use wooden supports for welding the sliding gate leaf

The fabric is welded from the bottom up, laying individual structural elements on the prepared plane.

  1. An outer frame is made, which is the main frame of the sash. To do this, a frame pipe with a cross section of 50x50 mm or 60x40 mm is welded to the guide rail. After this, vertical pipes are attached to its upper plane, and the upper cross member and slope are mounted. The welding seam can be made with tacks 2 cm long every 0.5–0.6 m.
    The frame is welded in a staggered manner. This will prevent overheating of individual areas and disruption of the flatness of the structure.
  2. Elements of the filling frame are welded to the base of the frame, which will be needed to attach the corrugated sheeting and will make the structure more rigid. Internal bulkheads are made of 40x20 mm pipes.
  3. The welding areas are cleaned with an angle grinder, after which the structure is coated with a primer.
  4. Using a spray gun, apply two or three layers of alkyd paint.
  5. After the protective layer has dried, the canvas is sheathed with corrugated board. To fasten it, use self-tapping screws or rivets, holes for which are drilled with an electric drill.

The frame, which will be sheathed with corrugated sheets, wood or polycarbonate, must be painted before filling

If steel sheets or forging are used as filling, they are welded at the stage of constructing the frame, after which they are cleaned and only after that the gate is prepared for painting.

Assembly instructions

  1. Installation of sliding gates begins with markings. In order to indicate the trajectory of their movement, it is necessary to stretch a cord along the roadway. The gap between it and the road surface should be 150–200 mm, and the distance to the support pillar should be 70 mm (with a recommended thickness of the road surface of up to 70 mm). In the future, the cord will serve as the center line when installing cantilever supports
  2. Determine the installation location of the front roller carriage. The principle here is simple - the farther the supports are placed from each other, the less will be the load on the bearings. However, the set of support rollers closest to the roadway is installed not along the extreme dimensions of the post, but at a distance of 15 cm in the direction of rollback. This is done so that the rolling roller protruding from the sash does not protrude onto the roadway. To determine the extreme position of the rear console support, subtract 100 mm from the total length of the web (with counterweight). The resulting value is laid off from the receiving pole (on which the catchers will be mounted) - this point will be the outer boundary of the second cart.

    Determining the installation locations of roller bearings

  3. The supporting platforms of the roller supports are aligned to the obtained points and secured by welding, after which the rollers are installed on the adjusting plates.

    The roller bearings are mounted on the base plate by means of supporting platforms. This allows you to avoid overheating of the rollers during installation and to be able to align the guide “horizontally”

  4. The door leaf is placed in place by rolling the guide onto the rollers. The supports are checked for correct installation, after which the sash is removed and the trolleys themselves are dismantled.
  5. The adjustment plates are securely welded.

    Before welding the support platforms and installing the trolleys in place, the door leaf is removed

  6. The roller supports and canvas are installed in place, after which the gate is fixed in the closed state.
  7. The building level is set in the same plane as the guide, after which the adjusting bolts of the supporting platforms are used to set the gate “to the horizon”.

    Correct installation of the roller carriage (with a supporting platform) will allow you to easily adjust the level of the guide beam

  8. The knurling roller is installed inside the guide, after which it is secured with bolts and secured by welding for reliability.

    Installation of the knurling roller

  9. Opposite the post closest to the roller carts, a roller limiter is installed on the upper edge of the web. The support rail is secured by welding, after which the gate is adjusted vertically.

    The support rail bracket can be attached to the post by welding - the wide adjustment range of each roller allows you to easily align the door leaf vertically

  10. Install the lower catcher. To mark the location of its installation, the gate is fixed in the closed position, the catcher bracket is placed under the support roller and pressed until it touches completely. The catcher is secured with bolts so that its position relative to the roller can be adjusted in the future.

    If you do everything correctly and carefully, you should end up with a design like this:

    Video: how to install sliding gates with your own hands

    How to equip them with automation

    An automatic opening system can be installed on such gates only if they move easily and without jerking on the rollers. To do this you need to purchase:

    • rack;
    • electric drive;
    • signal light;
    • limit switches or photocells;
    • remote control;
    • Control block.

    Today there is no need to buy components separately - ready-made automation kits can be found on sale. To install the system, you will need the same tools that were used in the manufacture and installation of the gate.

    Automation kit for sliding gates

    The electric drive is attached to the same embedded channel as the roller bearings. The work is carried out in stages.


    For safety reasons, a signal lamp is installed on the outermost pole. After this, check the correctness of the electrical connections and turn on the electricity supply.

    You can use a screwdriver or any electric motor with a gearbox as a sliding gate drive, and use an inexpensive car alarm for remote control.

    Video: sliding gates with a drive made from a screwdriver

    Although sliding gates require more financial investment than regular ones, the lion's share of costs can be saved if you make them yourself. Ease of use and comfort provided by the remote control system are combined with high reliability and the ability to save space on the site. Not a bad argument for a modern and functional design, right?

    Thanks to my varied hobbies, I write on various topics, but my favorites are engineering, technology and construction. Perhaps because I know many nuances in these areas, not only theoretically, as a result of studying at a technical university and graduate school, but also from the practical side, since I try to do everything with my own hands.

Recently, when every wealthy citizen wants to acquire his own private house or cottage, he is faced with the question of building a fence and, as a result, a gate suitable for it.

Sliding and sliding gates are very popular in this regard due to their obvious practicality; They are also often used in industrial facilities.

With the increase in demand, the number of manufacturers producing both finished gates and their components, offering installation by qualified workers, has also increased.

Types of sliding gates

Gates are divided into several types, and each has its own design, which has its own pros and cons.

Hanging gates

Most often they are used at the entrances of industrial facilities and other areas intended for a not too wide range of people. This type of gate is very reliable, but its production requires a lot of materials and, as a result, finances.

However, for those who value quality above all, they will be to their taste: hanging gates can work even fifty years after installation.

Among the obvious disadvantages, in addition to the price, it is worth noting that the gate opening is quite limited due to the upper beam.

Sliding gates on rails

In theory, the most reliable and at the same time the most primitive gate design. The gate opens like a compartment door, sliding on rollers along a specialized rail that is located on the ground.

Despite all the ease of use, in the climate of our country problems may arise with this type of gate; weather conditions such as snow or falling leaves can block the movement of these gates by closing the rail, making them impossible to open and difficult to return to functionality.

This design will find greatest application in places where the area is subject to timely cleaning, for example, in private courtyards. Also, even when open, such gates do not take up extra space, which obviously gives them an advantage in places with limited space.

Console gates

The design of this type of gate is similar to sliding gates on a rail, but differs in that the gate has no contact with the ground rail. This is the most complex design, however, this gives it its advantages: weather conditions do not affect the operation of the gate, and they also leave a lot of free space, negating the risk of damage to the vehicle entering them.

Thanks to the convenient arrangement of the rolling elements, which directly ensure the operation of the gate, cantilever gates are independent of nature, which allows them to have increased strength.

The gate movement is very simple thanks to the well-designed design and reduced friction. The disadvantages include the complex installation and the need for a larger fence area than the size of the opening.

When can sliding gates be installed?

To install the desired type of sliding gate, sometimes a great desire and budget are not enough; The success of the installation largely depends on the type of site on which the gate is going to be located.

In some situations, installing a gate is either completely impossible or very complicated.

For example, the problem with space is always very acute. With a short fence, you can’t even dream of a gate, since the space into which the gate will roll back must be unobstructed by at least the width of the opening, multiplied by one and a half.

The reason for this is that in addition to the gate itself, its technological part also takes up a lot of space.

In addition, the fence must be straight, since the gate moves in a straight path. Yes, a very obvious fact, but many consumers forget to take it into account. There should also be no uneven terrain where the gate opens.

Note!

How to install sliding gates

Installing and making gates with your own hands without experience in this matter can be very difficult, but possible. After familiarizing yourself with photographs of sliding gates, constructing detailed plans and drawings and diagrams of sliding gates, you can begin installation.

First of all, you should evaluate the future location of the gate. Assess the condition of the support posts and make sure they are strong enough to install the gate.

Make sure it is possible to locate a hole near a foundation pillar with dimensions of 500x2000mm

Decide on the type of door leaf and its facing material; this is important because the mass of the gate depends on this, and the choice of power elements depends on it.

Draw up detailed drawings of the gates, taking into account the characteristics of the area where the installation will be carried out, and purchase components.

Carry out marking work. Select the zero level.

Note!

Proceed with installation of the gate foundation. When using an electric drive in the selected type of gate, at this stage you should pay attention in advance to laying the necessary cables.

Make a sliding gate leaf. It is very important to pay great attention to the sizes. Purchase the necessary fittings for sliding gates (roller supports, rollers, caps for the beam, etc.)

Carry out installation and installation of the structure, having first waited no less than seven days after the completion of concreting.

DIY sliding gate photo

Note!

An integral part of the fencing structure of a summer cottage is the gate. Today there are many varieties of them. Let's look at the process of making and installing sliding gates with your own hands.

Advantages and disadvantages of this design

Advantages:

  • This gate design does not interfere with the exit/entry of a vehicle in a small area. Cantilever doors can significantly save space.
  • The presence of the lower fastening of the console system allows you to equip the gate in any climatic conditions.
  • The finishing can be made of different materials, for example, vertical lathing, corrugated board, forging and more.
  • Possibility of choosing a design option, for example, from a sandwich panel or corrugated sheet.
  • Compared to other types of gates (for example, swing gates), there is no such thing as sagging hinges. The existing automation and gate closing/opening mechanism provides for a long operational period.
  • It is possible to choose different automation for gates.

Flaws:

  • Unlike other types of gates, for example, swing gates, the installation of sliding gates requires more financial costs, approximately 10–20%.
  • To attach the console part and the drive, it is necessary to make an additional foundation.
  • You will need to allocate sufficient space along the fence.

The gate design is divided into several types, each of which differs from each other:

  1. Hanging. Since Soviet times, this heavy, but at the same time reliable design has gained immense popularity. In it, the canvas on roller trolleys is fixed to a beam, which is located above the passage, up to 5 m high. As a result, this height is a limitation when tall vehicles enter.
  2. Console. This type of gate is ideal for the climatic conditions of Russia. This design is not equipped with a beam above the driveway. Such gates will not be able to be damaged by snow drifts, wind, dust, etc. Thus, the canvas is fixed to the beam using roller carts. In this case, the entire structure is fixed on a powerful foundation, which is poured on the side of the opening.
  3. On screw piles. Metal piles are screwed into the ground to a depth of 1500 mm, which will support the entire structure. Their production and installation will take up to 3 days.
  4. Mechanical. These gates are opened/closed manually. Mechanical ones are much cheaper in cost and easier to install. They are suitable for cases where a dacha or country house is rarely used.
  5. Automatic. Such gates are the complete opposite of mechanical ones. They are equipped with an electric drive and remote control. The best option for regular use.

Regardless of the type of construction, sliding gates require free space along the fence on one side. In this case, it must be equal in size to the opening. As for console systems, the space should be 120–200% larger.

Gate calculation features

Design calculation is one of the most important and priority stages. You should not ignore this stage, since the construction of sliding ones is much more complicated than swing ones.

The calculation process includes the following steps:

  1. Determining the height and width of the opening. As a result, it will be possible to select the required type of gate for free movement.
  2. Estimation of the weight of the structure being constructed.
  3. Making a sketch or drawing.

The calculation of the width and height of the structure should be based on the market range. So, if a profile or pipe can be easily welded, then cutting sheets of corrugated board for the purpose of adding it is very difficult. Plus, the result will be unaesthetic.

Moreover, understanding the final weight of the structure, appropriate mechanisms and moving parts are selected that can cope with the load.

If the canvas is supposed to be large, then be sure to take into account the wind load. Add a small margin to the existing wind force prevailing in your area.

Although the easiest option for obtaining calculations is to contact a specialized company that will provide a folder with drawings and calculations, you can do this yourself. It is worth immediately noting that all of the above calculations apply to cantilever-type sliding gates. They are more complex than all other types, so let’s look at them in more detail.

The gate width (L) will be equal to:

  • opening width;
  • technological opening/closing intervals;
  • minimum distance between the centers of the carriages.

Based on this, L will be larger than the opening.

When moving, the doors must be balanced. This indicator is achieved by calculating the counterweight. Thanks to this, the specific gravity of the structure will be evenly distributed over the carriages. Accordingly, in order to have as little load as possible, the counterweight must be large.

But what if there is not enough space for the sash to move? In this case, it is necessary to understand that the length of the counterweight should not be less than 40% of the width of the sash. The ideal figure is 50%. As a consequence, the width L has a counterweight in its design.

Having such calculations, you can determine how much space is needed to roll back the gate along the fence.

This value is determined based on the weight of the material used:

  • Corrugated sheeting ~ equal to 4 kg/m2.
  • Steel, thickness 2 mm ~ 17 kg/m 2.

A gate with a 4x2 m frame will weigh on average 200 kg. Having such data, it is possible to determine the indicators of the guide beam. In this case, you can build on the established standard.

For a gate weighing 300 kg, a 9x5 cm beam with a thickness of at least 3.5 mm is sufficient. However, a safety margin of up to 40% is required. It will significantly simplify the operation of the gate and increase its service life.

The gate will require rollers, catchers and a support rail. Modern products of this type allow you to choose the desired design. As a basis, we will take the simplest estimate of the wind load, which is equal to 12 m/s to 90 kg/m2 and is evenly distributed over the support zones of the canvas.

How can you make sure that the structure you have made will work without interruption even in strong winds? To do this, it is necessary to ensure that the strength of the fittings is greater than the calculated weight of the gate. A lateral moment of 100 kg/m is also taken into account, multiplied by 8 kg/m, which equals 800 kg/m. In principle, this is not much ~ 150–180 kg/m for each supporting element.

When buying a roller mechanism, make sure that it has a margin of up to 30% in relation to the weight of the gate. But this indicator does not affect the service life in any way. This is directly affected by increasing the distance between the centers of the carriages.

In addition to all of the above, it is worth paying attention to other aspects. Pay attention to the gate rail, supports for roller carriages and the number of anchors. It is also important to correctly calculate the mortgages on the support pillars. In this case, it is necessary to start from 60% of the total mass of the gate, divided by the number of mortgages.

As for the calculation of the foundation, there are no special secrets here. But despite this, you should not lose sight of this component, because often the cost of the foundation reaches 40% of the total cost of the project.

This type of gate has the following structural elements:

  • Guide beam. Takes on all their weight.
  • Trolley or roller support. You need 2 of them.
  • Removable end roller. When closed, it serves as a support.
  • Upper/lower catcher. When the gate is closed, the lower one takes the load, and the upper one reduces the windage.
  • Bracket. It is important for keeping the sash from swinging sideways.
  • Stand. A support is installed on it, which organizes the movement of the sash.

Roller supports are installed on the foundation, which take on the load of the guide beam. The rollers are placed inside the supporting console.

Sash selection

The gate leaves are also subject to high demands. Its design must be sufficiently rigid and stable. This is important so that in the event of a strong gust of wind or ice, the sash functions well. Moreover, it must be equipped with additional stiffening ribs so that it does not sag under its own weight. All this should be taken into account when creating drawings.

The availability of certain components directly depends on the height and width of the sash, as well as its weight. So, today on the market you can find a number of companies that provide high-quality equipment, namely:

  • Combi Arialdo and Flatelli Comunello from Italy.
  • Roltek and Doorhan from Russia.
  • Alutech from Belarus.

For example, let's do some calculations. In the basic configuration, a supporting rail with a length of 6 m is necessarily installed. And in order to choose the right components for it, it is necessary to take into account the length of the sash plus 40%. Selection is also carried out according to the length of the guide beam and possible loads. So, if the width of the opening is 3.8 m, then the length of the door is 3.8 m + 40% = 5.32 m. In this case, you can purchase a ready-made set with a 6 m beam.

If the opening width significantly exceeds 4 m, then the purchase of components should be guided by a load of 500 kg. In them, the guide beam has a wall thickness of 3.5 m and a cross-section of 71 × 65 mm. If the width is more than 6 m, then it is necessary to take a load of up to 600 kg into account.

Installation work

The movement of the canvas should be carried out from the inside of the site, namely along the fence. Based on this, it is necessary to prepare a place for the gate so that absolutely nothing interferes with this process.

The installation process includes 4 steps:

  1. Electrical wiring.
  2. Installation of a response pole.
  3. Automation installation.

Stages of foundation construction:

  • First, marking is carried out. Measure 500 mm from the fence (the width of the foundation). You also measure from the edge of the gate a distance equal to the rollback (the length of the foundation). So, you will see the perimeter of the future foundation.
  • It is often possible to use fence support posts. If this is not possible, then a counter post should be installed on the opposite side. It must be installed so that it is inside the area, and not in the opening itself. Otherwise, it will reduce the width of the opening.
  • If the gate will operate automatically, then be sure to organize a place for laying the wiring. To do this, you can use a square metal or plastic pipe/box. The diameter of the pipes is not less than 25 mm.
  • Now you can start digging a pit. The depth of the trench is up to 2 m, below the soil freezing level (different in each region).
  • To make the embedded element, you can use channel 16. Its length should correspond to the length of the trench. Reinforcement Ø12 mm is laid in the foundation. The reinforcement must be welded to the channel and connected with cross braces.
  • Thus, the resulting embedded element is placed with the reinforcement down. When laying, make sure that the side of the channel is adjacent to the fence support post. Also, the channel must be set strictly level and exactly parallel to the gate opening line.

The embedded element must be flush with the road surface. The minimum gap allowed between the bottom edge of the gate and the road is 10 cm. This gap can be increased using an adjustment platform. But it will be impossible to reduce this gap without breaking the fastenings.

If for one reason or another a gap of 100 mm is not suitable, then install the embedded element deeply.

As for concrete work, it is carried out when the installation of the embedded element is completely completed. The concrete level should be flush with the embedded element.

Installation

When the foundation has hardened, you can begin installing the gate. To do this, you first need to make markings. Along the line of the opening, not reaching the counter post 30 mm, pull the cord. This cord is the gate's movement path. The height of the cord tension is 200 mm. Further work looks like this:

  • Determine the extreme position of the first and second roller support. From the edge of the opening, step back 15 cm along the plane of the embedded element and draw a line for the position of the outermost first trolley. Calculate the line of the second cart as follows: measure the entire length of the gate with the cantilever part and subtract 10 cm from the edge of the return post along the plane of the embedded element. As a result, you will determine the location of the second cart.
  • Now insert the roller supports into the supporting profile, placing them in the center.

Afterwards it is necessary to weld the second trolley of the adjustment platform. Then roll the gate leaf into the opening and make final position adjustments. Make small tack welds by welding the second adjustment pad, the resulting action looks like this:

  • Remove the canvas from the roller cart.
  • Next, remove the carts from the platforms.
  • Weld the platforms to the embedded element.
  • Attach roller carts to them.
  • Slide the canvas onto the roller supports.
  • Close the gate and use a wrench to adjust its position.

You make holes inside the supporting profile, this is necessary in order to install the cart correctly. To do this, loosen the top nuts securing the carts to the platforms. After that, roll the gate back and forth. If the sash moves freely, tighten the nuts. If there are some difficulties in moving the sash, then slightly loosen the fasteners and level out all the design flaws, for example, correct the distortions of the trolley.

  • Now you need to install the end roller. It should be inserted into the supporting profile and the bolts should be tightened thoroughly. You also weld the end roller cover to the profile. This will allow the roller to act as an end stop in the case of manual gate operation. But in this case, fastening by welding will be much better than a bolt.
  • As for the support profile plug, it is installed on the inside of the gate and welded in place. It is necessary to prevent snow from rolling under the rollers.
  • Now the upper clamp is mounted to the rollers. Therefore, loosen the roller fasteners and install the brackets so that its side is directed towards the support post, and the rollers grip the top of the canvas. Taking this into account, press the bracket against the post and secure it.

At the next stage of work, the gate frame is covered. For this you can use profiled metal sheets. They must be cut to the size of the sash. Fastening is carried out with rivets or self-tapping screws. Each subsequent sheet is mounted with an overlap.

When the casing is completed, the lower/upper catcher can be installed. The lower catcher plays the role of reducing the load on the roller carts when closed. Therefore, they must be installed when the gate is loaded. Place the lower catcher under the end roller with the gate completely closed so that the supporting plane of the catcher is above the level of the end roller. As for installing the upper catcher, this process occurs in the same way.

Finally, all that remains is to install the automation. To do this, attach the rack, which means a universal part with an electric drive. It is usually included in the mounting kit.

The choice of automation directly depends on the weight of the gate:

  • For an opening of 4 m, a drive of 500–600 kg is used.
  • For an opening of 4–6 m, a drive is used – 600–1300 kg
  • For cases with intensive gate opening, a drive of 1200–1800 kg is used.

Coloring

All metal elements of the gate must be painted. Pre-degrease the surface. To do this, clean the surface and sand it with a sanding disc on a grinder. Wipe some areas, such as protected areas, with acetone. Now you can start priming. It is applied evenly. Moreover, the primer must be applied so that there are no drops or streaks. Thanks to such preparatory work, the paint will lie evenly. As a result, the entire gate structure will be completely protected from corrosion.

The paint should be applied in two layers and only after the first has completely dried.

To carry out all the work, you will need to have the following tool:

  • Inverter welding material. Such a unit will not damage the metal.
  • Bulgarian.
  • Air compressor for painting.
  • Pliers.
  • Drill.
  • Roulette.
  • Level.
  • Riveter.

If you do not have sufficient experience in performing such work, then there is a high risk of making some mistakes:

  • Insufficient foundation preparation.
  • Incorrect installation and fastening of all components.
  • Incorrect weight of the gate for the load-bearing beam.
  • If you hear a creaking sound, this is evidence of sand getting into the bearings.
  • Do not allow paint to drip.
  • Be sure to take into account the depth of soil freezing. Otherwise, the pillars may skew in one direction.

Video: making gates

Photo: options for finished sliding gates

Scheme

In the diagrams you can find many structural details for the manufacture of sliding gates: