How to make a brick septic tank. How to make a brick septic tank on your own in a suburban area? Making a septic tank cover

An inexpensive and effective option for arranging a local sewer system for a private home is a brick septic tank. It is easy to build it with your own hands, using the remains of building materials formed after dismantling any old structure.

The autonomous sewage systems described in the article have many advantages. Brick septic tank:

designed for long-term operation, as it is characterized by increased reliability;
requires relatively low construction costs (especially when collapsible bricks are used);
easy to install (the technology of its construction does not involve the use of any specific tools or construction devices);
can be built with any geometric dimensions and in a configuration convenient for you (it is easy to harmoniously fit into the boundaries of any plot of land).

Autonomous sewage system

In addition, it is possible to build a septic tank from brick in one of two models:

Sealed. Such a structure is recommended to be erected on land plots with poor drainage and in cases where it must be built taking into account all sanitary norms and rules without exception.
Open. This septic tank is not suitable for situations where you plan to use the sewerage system quite actively. Wastewater is not pumped out of it, but goes into the ground. Therefore, open systems are built on soils with high permeability.

The main disadvantage of a brick septic tank for a country house is the complexity of its construction. All construction operations do not require special knowledge and skills from the performer. But in terms of time, the process of arranging such an autonomous sewage system is quite lengthy. Another disadvantage of the described systems is the low insulation potential of the brick. You will have to additionally protect the material from external weather influences. And this, again, will require additional time.

Structurally, a septic tank for a private house is made with one, two or three chambers. Which model is right for you should be decided based on the following factors:

number of people living in the house;
volume of waste per day;
desired degree of wastewater treatment;
frequency of wastewater entering the sewer during the day.

The simplest design is the single-chamber design. Building it with your own hands is as easy as shelling pears. It will take up minimal space on the site. But here it is important to know that such structures do not provide a sufficient degree of wastewater treatment.

A single-chamber septic tank consists of external walls lowered to a given depth. Between them, as a rule, an additional tank is installed. It allows for post-treatment of wastewater and its storage after clarification. The bottom of such a tank is made of gravel or sand (in no case should it be cemented), which act as a filter layer. Two-chamber structures have an internal space divided into two parts. The separation is usually made by a brick partition. In the first compartment, the wastewater is clarified. Then, through a pipe made in the chamber wall, the clarified water flows into the second part of the structure.

Single-chamber septic tank made of brick

Constructions with two chambers are more difficult to build with your own hands. You will need to not only build two compartments, but also equip each of them with its own inspection well. They will allow the removal of solid sediment from the sewer system as necessary. But the level of sewage purification in such systems is around 55–65%. For a local sewage system in a country house, this is a good indicator.

Three-chamber septic tanks for private residential buildings are very rare. Building them with your own hands takes too much time. In addition, the installation of such structures requires a large area. Structurally, they include three sections - a receiving compartment, a cleaning chamber, and an outlet tank. Three-chamber sewerage structures are erected for houses where more than 6–7 people permanently live. Brick septic tanks with two chambers are suitable for families of 3–5 people. Two-chamber structures are allowed to be built for small houses with 1–2 residents.

Sanitary standards require that the septic tank, regardless of its type, be remote:

from a source of clean water - 50 m;
from outbuildings - 1–2 m;
from the foundation of the house - 10–20 m.

Let us add that the sewer system outside the city cannot be installed closer than one meter to the fence separating your land plot from the neighboring one.

Experts recommend using only solid clay bricks. It has characteristics that allow it to withstand the aggressive effects of sewage for a long time. It is optimal if you use whole building materials with dimensions of 24x11.5x7.1 cm for construction. But, as was said, it is also allowed to use bricks with broken geometric parameters from disassembled buildings.

Important addition! Even solid clinker bricks, which are highly resistant to sewage, must be additionally protected from wastewater with a layer of special bitumen-based mastic. It can be purchased at hardware stores and used according to the instructions included with the composition. Cement for sewer construction must be taken at least grade M400. It’s better to spend a little money and purchase a composition labeled M500. To mix cement with your own hands, you will need a container that is large enough in volume. Construction will go faster the larger the mixing tank you use.

Construction of a septic tank from solid clinker bricks

If you plan to build a sealed septic tank made of brick, you need to prepare steel reinforcing rods with a diameter of 1 cm. Don’t forget to purchase the tools to carry out the planned activity:

for digging - flat and bayonet shovels;
for laying mortar - a trowel;
for taking measurements - a tape measure, a level and a plumb line;
hammer.

All that remains is to buy a sewer supply pipe (take a product with a cross-section of 11 cm) and sewer hatches (you need to take one for each chamber of the structure). You are completely ready to build a brick sewer with your own hands.

During operation, you will have to regularly maintain the septic tank. To make this as convenient as possible, it is dug to a depth of no more than 3 m (minimum depth - 120 cm). The required volume of sewerage can be easily obtained by varying the diameter of the excavated pit. Everything is simple here. Make a septic tank with a large diameter if you need a spacious local sewage system.

Brick walls should have a thickness of about 25 cm. But the partitions between the individual compartments of the structure can be made thinner - 12–13 cm. If you are creating a sealed sewer system, take care to form the same sealed bottom for it. To do this, follow these steps:

fill the bottom of the pit with a mixture of crushed stone (gravel can be used instead of these materials);
compact the resulting layer;
lay reinforcing bars on the made bottom and fill them with concrete mortar (cement - 1 part plus sand - 3 parts);
wait 2-3 days and then start building brick walls.

Creating a sealed sewer bottom

When building a septic tank with two compartments with your own hands, the receiving chamber must occupy at least 2/3 of the total volume of the structure. At the same time, it must contain at least one cubic meter of waste. In structures with 2 and 3 chambers, the individual parts of the septic tank are connected to each other by pipes. To install them, holes with a diameter of 15x15 cm are made in the compartments. It is recommended to place such holes at a depth of 40–60 cm. But the pipe through which sewage and water flow into a brick sewer for a private house should be mounted in relation to the drain hole at a distance of 50–60 cm. 70 cm above.

A couple more important tips. Lay sewer pipes with a slope (for every meter - 2 cm). Lay pipe products below the soil freezing level. Do not use pipes with a cross-section smaller than 11 cm.

Laying brick walls is done as follows:

Dig a hole of the given size, pour 30 cm of crushed stone on the bottom, 20 cm of sand on top, compact the cake and pour water over it. If you are building a sealed septic tank, reinforce the bottom according to the procedure described above.
Mix the cement mortar. Add enough water to get a not very thick mixture.
Lay out the walls of the structure in one brick. Coat them with bitumen mastic.
Fill the free space around the structure with a layer of clay. This procedure is called creating a clay castle. Instead, you can simply coat the walls of the septic tank with clay mortar.
Seal all existing gaps between the walls and the bottom of the structure with cement mortar. In this case, you will receive a high-quality sealed structure.
You plaster the inner surface of the septic tank, and then waterproof it with a bitumen mixture.

Laying brick walls of a septic tank

In fact, you have already made an excellent local sewage system with your own hands. You just need to cover it. If a sealed septic tank was erected, it is covered with covers (hatches) made of reinforced concrete. They must have hatches through which sewage will be pumped out. Open-type brick septic tanks can be covered with simple panels made of wood. And then cover them with sheets of roofing felt and lightly sprinkle with earth.

The last stage of sewer construction is the installation of a ventilation pipe. Use a plastic or asbestos product to create an effective ventilation duct for the constructed structure. Note! The pipe should extend 60–70 cm beyond the pit.

When arranging a sewer system in a country house or on a summer cottage, many individual developers try to do this. Despite the fact that one can give preference to simpler solutions, their choice often falls on wastewater treatment tanks made of bricks. In this short article we will look at the option of independently manufacturing a two-chamber wastewater treatment plant built from this clay building material.

Making a brick septic tank

At the first stage, it is necessary to decide on the water requirement for the people living in the house. As a rule, they proceed from three days of settling of wastewater based on 200 liters of water consumption per day. Hence, if a family consists of 4 people, the volume of the container should be at least 4 × 200 × 3 = 2.4 cubic meters. meters. You also need to take into account the volume of the container free of waste, which is usually a third of the useful volume. In total, we have the volume of the settling chamber – 2.4/3 + 2.4 = 3.2 cubic meters. meters. In our case (see above), the installation will have the shape of a rectangular parallelogram (instead of a cylindrical one), so calculating its length, width, and height is not particularly difficult. When determining dimensions, we proceed from the depth of groundwater. If they are deeper than 3 meters, you can build a sump with parameters 2/1.6/1 (H/D/W), m. The filtration well can be made of a smaller volume, for example 2 cubic meters. m. – 2/1/1 m.

Basic materials for construction

Before you start building an autonomous installation, you should take care of purchasing red brick - it will serve as the main material for future containers. The number of bricks is easy to calculate based on the volume of the septic tank. You will also need cement of at least M200, sand, waterproofing compounds, crushed stone, a couple of hatches, and several reinforcement bars with a diameter of 10 mm.

Stages of work

First you need to dig a pit according to the parameters of the future structure. The bottom under the filtration well is covered with crushed stone, then the entire bottom of the pit is covered with sand. A concrete foundation (without reinforcement) is made under the settling tank and the load-bearing walls of the two chambers. Next, the brickwork is laid (pipes are installed at the same time), the walls of the septic tank are covered on both sides with a layer of cement and waterproofing. In the upper part, a reinforced concrete monolithic cover (overlap) is made. The result is two containers - one plays the role of a sump, and the second plays the role of a filtration well.

Video on the topic

How to make a septic tank from brick? Is the choice of this particular material for its construction justified? How to lay sewer pipes from the house? Where to locate a local treatment plant?

We will try to answer all these questions.

Material: pros and cons

First, let's try to give a balanced assessment of the material from which we are going to build.

Advantages

No need for formwork. This makes brick compare favorably with monolithic concrete structures.
Free form of walls. This property follows from the previous one. It is not easy to build formwork for a round sump or filter well; Here we can lay out a structure of any shape.

However: for a round well or sump, monolithic reinforced concrete casting is not used.
In this case, the obvious choice is well rings.

Mechanical strength that distinguishes brick containers.

Flaws

It couldn't have happened without them either.

It is very difficult to ensure complete tightness of the sump. Sooner or later, untreated wastewater will begin to filter into the ground through the seams. What’s even worse is that if the groundwater level is high, the septic tank chambers will be flooded.
The price of bricks is quite high. Construction from it will obviously cost more than a monolithic concrete structure and in terms of costs will be close to the purchase of a plastic container.

Accommodation

The instructions for choosing a location for a septic tank are based, first of all, on the requirements of SNiP 2.04.03-85, which regulates the construction of external sewer networks and structures.

The minimum for highways is five meters. The limitation is associated with the likelihood of subsidence of soil washed out by runoff.
The distance from the site boundary is at least 2 meters.
The distance from a protected water intake (in particular, an artesian well) is at least 30 meters, a weakly protected one (for example, a well that draws water from the upper aquifer) is at least 50 meters.

In addition: on a slope, the septic tank is always located below the house.
The motives are obvious: it is necessary to ensure the movement of wastewater by gravity.

Sewage inlet

The laying of sewerage from the house to the septic tank is carried out in compliance with the following requirements:

Along the entire length of the pipe, a constant slope of approximately 2 centimeters per linear meter is maintained. Any counter-slope in the near future will become a place of constant blockages and the formation of fatty plugs.
The pipe sockets are oriented against the movement of the drains.
Burrs on the inside of the drain are carefully removed. All irregularities will begin to collect debris and again lead to a gradual narrowing of the pipe lumen.
Instead of one 90-degree angle on turns, you should use two 45-degree angles. Remember that sooner or later cleaning will be required; a cable or wire goes through gentle turns more easily.
Finally, the main thing: external sewerage is laid below the soil freezing level. Where this is not possible, the pipe is insulated with a foam or polyurethane shell; Often a self-regulating heating cable is installed in the shell.

Please note: the exception is regions in which the average temperature of the winter months is consistently above zero.
Thus, in Crimea, open laying of street sewerage is practiced and does not create any problems.

Construction of a septic tank

So, how to build a simple two-chamber septic tank with your own hands?

General principles

It is better to separate the sump tank and filter well by at least a meter in space. Otherwise, the bottom of the sump will be washed away, which will sooner or later lead to its subsidence and damage to the overflow.

The overflow can have a diameter of 110 or even 50 mm.

On the side of the sump, it ends with a tee, whose outlets are directed:

Down. Through this outlet, wastewater is collected below the water surface, which avoids crust from its surface entering the filter well.
Up. The outlet is used for cleaning.
Towards the filter well.

Sump

The size of the pit exceeds the design dimensions of the settling tank by 20-30 centimeters in all directions.
The pit is successively filled with sand and crushed stone. The thickness of each layer is about 10-15 centimeters.
A reinforced screed 8-12 cm thick is poured over the crushed stone. Reinforcement is a mesh with a mesh of about 10 centimeters, fittings or substandard pipes, corners, etc.
Along the perimeter of the pit, the walls of the sump are laid in half a brick. Masonry - with ligation of vertical seams from row to row; use ordinary cement mortar (1 part M400 cement to 3 parts sand).

The space between the walls of the pit and the brickwork is filled with compacted wet clay. A clay castle will provide additional waterproofing.
The pit (even in this case it is larger than the future well) is filled with 20 centimeters of crushed stone.
A concrete pad is formed around the perimeter.
After it hardens, walls are erected. The masonry has gaps the size of a third of the brick: settled wastewater will drain into the ground not only through the bottom, but also through the walls of the well.
Backfilling is carried out not with soil, but with crushed stone, broken bricks or other large drainage.

Filter well

Lids

For both the sump and filter well, the easiest way is to lay a finished slab with a hatch on top. The top of the lid is covered with foam plastic or other insulation, protected with dense polyethylene and sprinkled with soil.

In addition to hatches, ventilation holes are provided in the covers, through which ventilation pipes with umbrella-deflectors are installed 0.5 - 1.5 meters above the surface level.

Conclusion

As always, the video in this article will offer you additional video instructions on how to build a brick septic tank. Good luck!

An individual treatment system in the private sector in the absence of centralized communications is important. It increases the level of living comfort for people, improves the sanitary condition of the site, purifying wastewater and not polluting the environment. Ready-made installations from manufacturers, even with minimal productivity, are expensive. In order to save money, residents of dachas and cottages make their own sewerage systems from different materials.

A brick septic tank is considered the best option for cleaning and disposal of household waste.

The operating principle of homemade equipment depends on the number of cameras and the device.

A simple two-chamber sump tank is similar in design and operating principle to factory models. It consists of 2 containers, inlet and outlet pipelines, hoses for pumping liquid, and a drainage system. In order to automate the process, install a compressor to supply air to the system and, if desired, a pump to force water into a special tank, drainage ditch or well.

Water is supplied from the house through a pipeline into one of the chambers. When the container is filled, organic substances are separated. Solid granules settle to the bottom and produce biologically active microorganisms that dissolve some of the waste. If a brick septic tank is not made airtight with your own hands, anaerobic bacteria die when oxygen enters the container. The water is not purified, rots, becomes cloudy and has an unpleasant odor.

When the set level is reached, the liquid is pumped through a hose into another container, where the process of oxidation, release of sludge and clarification of water occurs.

At the third stage, purified water is drained by gravity or forced water.

What are the advantages and disadvantages of brick septic tanks?

Among the advantages of a homemade brick sewer system are:

Availability and low price.
High mechanical and anti-corrosion properties of materials.
Easy installation. Does not require additional help, the work can be done independently.
Possibility of installation according to different schemes.
Manufacturing of cameras of any shapes and sizes.

The main disadvantages of the system include:

Low tightness. Waterproofing is required.
Greater labor intensity. The construction process takes a long time.

How many cameras are best to install, and what do they affect?

The number of chambers depends on the daily consumption of domestic wastewater and the quality of water purification required at the outlet.

If the volume of liquid during the day is no more than 1 m³, a do-it-yourself brick septic tank for a private house is made of 1-chamber. It is not designed for heavy loads and takes up little space. The storage tank is made without a bottom; instead, a sand and gravel backfill is made, which acts as a filter element.

The disadvantage of the design is the frequent removal of sediment using sewage disposal equipment or manually using special devices. Water is absorbed directly into the soil, has a low level of purification, and is suitable for non-permanent living.

When the daily wastewater flow rate is up to 10 m³, a treatment facility consisting of 2 chambers is installed. This design option is considered optimal for the private sector. A two-chamber sedimentation tank cleans the sewage system by 60%. In containers, liquid is purified in one of 2 ways: settling or processing by active bacteria.

The mechanical method is carried out without connecting to the electrical network. The main difference from the storage tank is the presence of a second chamber into which liquid flows by gravity. Water treatment using this method is better than in 1-chamber devices, and worse than in 2-chamber energy-dependent devices, but in case of periodic power outages they benefit.

When an installation with 2 tanks is connected to the power supply through a compressor, water is automatically supplied and pumped from the house to the receiving chamber and sump. The anaerobic bacteria that form help clean the wastewater much more effectively. When installing the pump, clarified water flows out. This water is often used by summer residents and gardeners for watering plants and other household needs.

Three-chamber devices are used when the daily volume of wastewater exceeds 10 m³ and for better cleaning. Due to its large overall dimensions, the structure takes up a lot of space, installation requires more materials and time, so it is rarely used.

Installation of a brick septic tank with your own hands

Before starting the construction of a sewage treatment system, it is necessary to calculate the capacity of the chambers, select a site that meets all sanitary and technical standards, design drawings and installation diagrams indicating all the necessary parameters and dimensions.

To calculate the consumption of household wastewater, the formula is used: 200 liters of water are spent per user per day; The capacity of the receiving chamber must correspond to the 3-day volume of accumulated liquid. Thus, if 3 people live in a residential building, the volume of water is 600 liters, the capacity is at least 1800 liters or 1.8 m³.

How to choose the right location?

When choosing the location of a brick septic tank with your own hands, the installation diagram takes into account the following distances:

from the neighbor’s plot - at least 1 m;
from living quarters - 5-20 m;
from the drinking well - 30-50 m;
from the reservoir - 30 m;
from a stream or river - 10 m;
from trees - 3 m;
placement of the bottom of the equipment is at a depth of 0.8-1 m from the groundwater level.

According to experts, it is better to install wastewater treatment tanks near the road for convenient access for the sewer truck. If you are far from the house, you will need to lay a long pipeline. This leads to unnecessary financial costs, which is impractical from an economic point of view, and will also cause clogging in a long pipe.

What tools and materials will be needed?

To build a sewage treatment plant for individual use, you will need the following materials:

Construction brick.
Cement grade not lower than M200.
Fittings with a diameter of 10 mm.
Sewage pipes with a cross-section of 11 cm.
Hatches to protect equipment.
Waterproofing (bitumen mastic).

Required tools:

Building level.
Roulette.
Trowel.
Container for mixing cement mortar.
Hammer.
Flat and bayonet shovels.

Choosing the right brick

Red clinker brick is best suited - a special ceramic material made from baked clay, characterized by high strength, reliability, durability and frost resistance. It withstands the aggressive influence of sewage for a long time. For construction, a whole product measuring 24x11.5x7.1 cm is used. When building a local wastewater treatment plant, bricks from dismantled buildings with destroyed geometry can be used.

How to lay out a septic tank correctly?

A septic tank is a rectangular or cylindrical structure. Rectangular designs are faster and easier to make.

The construction of an autonomous brick sewer involves several stages.

1. Land works. Prepare a pit of the required size and shape, mark the installation locations of the pipeline, taking into account the diameter. Make a sand cushion. To do this, pour 30 cm of crushed stone and 20 cm of sand onto the bottom of the pit, thoroughly water it and compact it. You can use bottom reinforcement with concreting to seal the installation.

2. Laying bricks:

the products are laid out around the perimeter of the pit, the wall thickness should be at least 25 cm;
make a partition 12 cm thick;
gaps on the internal walls are sealed with cement mortar to provide airtightness;
the external facade is treated with bitumen mastic;
along the perimeter they coat the walls with clay 20-30 cm thick;
The space around the structure is backfilled with soil.

3. Production of floors. For installations without a bottom, in which there is no need to pump out sludge, simple boards are suitable. For treatment buildings with a concrete base, reinforced concrete slabs are prepared, in which holes are made for hatches, installed on the surface with a slight protrusion above ground level from the ingress of melted snow and rain, then the pipeline and hatches are installed, and poured to completely seal the seams.

When erecting a structure, all pipes must be laid with a slope of 2 cm per linear meter. The height of the laying depth depends on the depth of soil freezing. When laying reinforcement, the screed is left for several days for the concrete to dry and only then they begin to lay the brick.

If you follow the process technology, the issue of wastewater disposal in the private sector will be resolved.

For full-fledged living in a country house or in a private house, it is necessary to equip personal water supply and sewerage systems. Many people want to save money on this. Therefore, the most preferable method is to build a brick septic tank yourself.

In case of long-term residence in a country house or in a private house, a septic tank is a necessary structure for the disposal of used water.

Even a person who does not have sufficient knowledge in the field of construction can do this. The main condition for ensuring an excellent result is compliance with all rules and regulations relating to construction.

If this condition is met, the septic tank will function well without polluting nature.

Self-construction

The size of the septic tank depends on the load it has to cope with.

Some people are hesitant to build a septic tank themselves. But it is quite possible. First you need to decide what load it will work with and what season it will be used. For example, if you are building this structure at your dacha, and it will be used only occasionally, in late spring, summer and early autumn, that’s one thing, but if you need a structure for your home, for continuous use in all seasons, that’s another. Take this into account. Let's take as an example a septic tank for continuous operation in any season. First of all, we need to decide how we will operate it. After all, there are structures that serve only showers and sinks, and there are structures that serve country houses, where, in addition to the above, there is also a toilet.

If a septic tank intended for a bathroom or sink lets any amount of water into the ground, then all the water located underground near the septic tank may be poisoned, therefore, irreparable damage will be caused to the condition of the earth. If only plain water flowed from bathtubs and sinks, there would be no danger. However, today people use a great variety of all kinds of hygiene products containing chemicals, so the septic tank should never let water through.

The issue of recycling used water worries all owners of cottages and dachas outside the city. People are concerned about where to put water from their homes if there is no centralized sewerage system in the village. In ancient times, the only solution was to dig a special hole. But this method of accumulating wastewater has many disadvantages, the main one of which is the presence of a disgusting stench in the house. For this reason, many cottage owners choose a more comfortable method - septic tanks. Self-construction of a septic tank by hand allows you to save money, so it is the best option for people who value benefits.

It is not permissible to build a wastewater treatment plant chamber near the cottage.

Drafting

Drawing up a project on your own is a mandatory stage in the construction of any structure. Only if a correctly drawn up project is available is it possible to carry out successful work. Also, if you have a successful project, you can count on the fact that the structure erected for the house will not harm the environment and will work well.

Carrying out calculations

When calculating the size of treatment facilities, it must be taken into account that on average one person uses 200 liters of water per day.

At the first stage, it is necessary to count materials for the local wastewater treatment plant. You need to decide how much capacity the cameras will have. It should be remembered that wastewater from the cottage, bathhouse and other objects with sewerage will flow there. And all this must be placed in a septic tank. The brick septic tank chamber must be able to accommodate wastewater flowing out for three days. How do you know how much water is poured per day? You can find out the exact indicators experimentally, on your own, but it is easiest to take into account generally accepted indicators.

It is widely believed that one person wastes about 200 liters of fluid in one day. Of course, this is an average. The volume of waste water per day depends on the number of people using this water in the house. Let's give an example of how you can calculate the amount of water on your own. If five family members live in a cottage with all the necessary plumbing, then the amount of water used per day will reach 1000 liters. Thus, the quantity will reach 3000 liters in three days. It turns out that you need a chamber with a volume of three cubic meters.

Construction scheme

A local treatment facility must include several elements:

settling tanks in which wastewater is settled and treated;
pipes for drainage;
pipeline (outlet and inlet);
drainage system.

In the case of laying a water supply system in a country house, which people are going to visit only occasionally, you should choose the design of a local treatment plant with one chamber. This will be quite enough. In other cases, it is advisable to equip a septic tank with two chambers. It’s possible with three.

The best option is to build brick chambers.

Place of construction

Composing a successful project is not everything. It is also necessary to choose the location of the local treatment plant correctly. The shortest distance from the chambers of the structure to the well depends on the type of land on the territory. For example, if the soil contains clay, the distance should be 25 m, and if there is sand - 85 m.

When planning the location of the septic tank, it is necessary to take into account the location of drinking water sources.

The following points need to be taken into account:

It is necessary that the septic tank is located at a sufficiently large distance from the place of water intake. The chambers of the septic tank, of course, should not allow water to pass through, but unforeseen situations may arise during which the used water gets into the water intake layer.
It is forbidden to build chambers of a treatment plant with your hands near the cottage. The decision to place the structure in the basement is a failure. Even if there is ventilation, the cottage will still smell. Among other things, if the septic tank is located in the basement, it will be difficult to equip filtration fields.
However, building cameras with your own hands too far from the cottage is also a bad option. Firstly, there will be problems with the passage of wastewater through the water supply system, because the pipes must be inclined in a certain way. Secondly, it follows from this that the treatment plant will have to be equipped with hands deep enough, and this is not always realistic, especially if the groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth.
When deciding where to install a structure on the territory, you must remember that its operation implies constant cleaning of the chambers from dense waste on your own. Therefore, it is necessary to resort to the help of sewage disposal equipment, in other words, the car must easily drive to the camera.

The construction of a sewage treatment plant for a private cottage can be done independently, without the use of special equipment. But construction will be completed much faster if you use a digging and loading machine when working with the ground.

Land works

To build a septic tank, it is advisable to use clay bricks.

In order to dig a treatment facility on your own, you need to carry out tracing (a measuring device is used for this), in other words, mark the planned hole in a circle. In addition, you need to mark the location of the ditches in which the water supply will be located. The size of the pit depends on the level at which the used water is located and the size of the chamber. After the hole has been dug by hand, it is necessary to proceed to the initial work, the sequence of which depends on the material from which the treatment plant is being built. However, there are also general rules.

First: the pit for the structure must have a smooth and hard bottom.

Second: there should be a sandy shock-absorbing cushion at the bottom. The height of the sand embankment should reach 25 cm. It must be solid.

The ceiling and base of the brick treatment plant is made in the same way as a concrete structure. But there are also differences, the main one of which is that after just 24 hours, after laying the bricks and protecting them from leakage, the ceiling can be poured.

A sand cushion is poured and leveled at the bottom of the pit for the construction of a septic tank.

It is prohibited to use tripod (also called porous), hollow or silicate bricks for the construction of a wastewater treatment plant for a home. This is explained by the fact that these types of bricks quickly deteriorate when exposed to dirty water. The best option for building walls is solid clay brick. It's good if it's quite heavy. The smallest thickness of the treatment plant walls made of brick is 30 cm, and the partitions are 13 cm. During construction, every fourth row must be bandaged. It is necessary to use a composition of sand and cement, in which there should be more sand.

Once the preparatory steps have been completed, you can proceed to the construction of a treatment plant for your home. Any material can be used. But it is best to build the chambers from brick. They are erected, pipes are installed and the chambers are protected from water penetration.

Final works

The final stage of construction involves installing ventilation, digging holes and installing hatches on top of the lid with your own hands.

Before you begin construction, you need to know the sanitary standards and construction rules. When constructing a local treatment plant by hand, they cannot be ignored. On the contrary, this should be taken as seriously as possible. Beginning builders are advised to familiarize themselves with how to independently build a structure for a private cottage. This is absolutely necessary to gain a sufficient understanding of construction.