How to properly install a strip foundation. Strip foundation: varieties, pros and cons, installation stages, photos and videos

The strip foundation can be called the most popular in the construction of private houses, as it has fully justified itself over many decades of operation. It is quite simple to set up and does not require particularly complex devices or special equipment.

Of course, in order for the structure to be reliable and durable, you can only partially make a strip foundation with your own hands, that is, carry out the basic work of digging a trench, installing formwork, installing and tying reinforcement bars, waterproofing and insulation. But it can be easier and more reliable to order manufacturing and filling from companies that specialize in this work.

To find out why the strip foundation is so popular in construction, you need to consider all its positive and, of course, existing negative qualities.

Advantages and disadvantages of strip foundations

A strip foundation is a monolithic strip of concrete mortar on which all the load-bearing walls of the building are erected.

Strip foundation - a reliable basis for the construction of building walls

This type of base is used in the following cases:

For the construction of private houses and outbuildings from materials with significant mass, such as stone, concrete, brick, cinder blocks and other materials.
In cases where the general construction plan assumes an underground garage, ground floor or basement.
For the construction of houses with heavy floors or attics.
In regions where predominantly heterogeneous soil prevails.

It should be noted that installing a strip foundation is suitable for almost all types of soil, with the possible exception of subsidence and peat bogs - this must be taken into account when choosing the type of foundation for building your own house.

To know what can be expected from a strip foundation during operation, you need to have information about the advantages and disadvantages of this design.

Advantages:

The joint strip foundation is specially designed to withstand heavy loads, no less than a monolithic foundation.
It is distinguished by the comparative simplicity of preparatory measures, which can be completely carried out independently.
A strip foundation always has a long service life, of course, if it is constructed correctly and the required degrees of structural protection are provided (waterproofing and insulation).
An advantage can be considered the variety of specific types of strip foundations, from which you can choose the one that is most suitable in terms of technological and financial capabilities.
A tape base will cost much less than a monolithic one, although it is practically not inferior to it in strength.
This design allows for better thermal insulation of floors in the house, creating a multi-layer insulation layer.

Flaws:

Strip foundations are not suitable for installation in some soils.
According to construction technology, the entire thickness of the foundation must be poured in one go, and it is very difficult to prepare such an amount of concrete yourself. In this regard, there is a need to turn to construction manufacturing companies that have special equipment and machinery.
The work, even in preparation for pouring concrete, is quite labor-intensive and will take a lot of time. It will be difficult to do without helpers.

As can be seen from the presented qualities of the strip foundation, the positive ones have a significant advantage over the negative ones.

Types of strip foundations

There are several types of strip foundations, which differ according to some criteria, and the first of them is the depth of its occurrence.

For example, for massive houses built from heavy building materials, a buried foundation is required, which must be built to a depth of 250 ÷ 300 mm below the freezing level of the soil in the region where the building is constructed.
Another type of strip foundation is shallow. It is used for light frame buildings, and its total depth does not exceed 550 ÷ 600 mm.

The diagram shows several main types of strip foundations

Strip foundations are divided not only into two types, but also into several types:

The monolithic type of foundation is the most used for various buildings. It is erected from concrete mortar and with mandatory reinforcement. This foundation is attractive due to its simplicity of design and ease of construction, along with its inherent durability and strength.
Prefabricated foundations are used less frequently for the construction of private houses. This type of base is assembled from ready-made concrete blocks, which are manufactured in factories. They are delivered to the construction site and installed in a prepared trench using heavy equipment.

The blocks are installed back to back, and the gaps between them are filled with concrete mortar and completely sealed on the outside with waterproofing material.

This type of foundation is not suitable for unstable soils, since rupture and deformation of the entire foundation, and therefore the building standing on it, can occur at the joints.

In addition, you will have to pay a fairly large sum for the delivery and installation of blocks to their permanent location (using loading and unloading and lifting equipment). However, in fairness it must be said that the blocks themselves will cost less than the entire complex of necessary materials for pouring a monolithic foundation belt, and will also save builders from a lot of heavy construction work. For example, you won’t have to knock down and install formwork, or lay and tie reinforcement mesh.

A prefabricated or block foundation is well suited for two- or three-story houses built from concrete slabs or bricks. If you have the financial opportunity and the type of soil is suitable for installing blocks, then this type of foundation will be a good choice for building a large cottage.

Materials for arranging a strip foundation

If you still decide to build a building on a strip monolithic foundation, you need to purchase all the necessary materials for its construction.

For this you will need:

Ruberoid or dense polyethylene film - for waterproofing the formwork.
A board 15 ÷ 20 mm thick and a block 20 × 30 mm - for installing formwork.
Steel wire - for tying reinforcement and tightening, if necessary, formwork boards.
Reinforcement with a diameter of 10 ÷ 15 mm - for installing a reinforcing belt.
Nails or self-tapping screws - for installing formwork.
Sand and crushed stone - for preliminary filling of “pillows”.
If the concrete is still mixed independently, then it will need cement of at least M400, sand and mid-fraction crushed stone or gravel. The solution is made from these materials, taken in proportions 1: 2: 4.

Sequence of work to create a strip foundation

To be confident in choosing a foundation, it is necessary to carry out some preparatory activities.

Foundation calculation

It is imperative to find out the type of soil on the site for building a house and the depth of its freezing in a particular region, as well as the depth of groundwater passage. To clarify all these features, you need to contact a design and construction organization that will conduct a geodetic study, make the necessary calculations and create an accurate foundation design, based on the analysis obtained as a result of research.

If you start drawing up a project yourself, you may not take into account some nuances that will subsequently lead to the destruction of the walls of the house. This is especially true for buildings with several floors.

If you plan to build a small building, such as, for example, a country house, a garage, a barn, a chicken coop or a bathhouse, then you can try the foundation, taking into account the recommendations of SNiP II-B.1-62. And even easier - use a special table that allows you to special calculations are enough exactly exactly determine the required depth of the strip foundation, depending on the type of house and soil characteristics:

Type of building	Depth of strip foundation (mm) depending on the type of soil
		Rocky soil, opoka	Dense clay, loam that molds in the hand	Packed dry sand, sandy loam	Soft sand, sandy loam, silt soil	Very soft sand, sandy loam, silty soil	peat bog
Barn, bathhouse, outbuildings. the buildings	20	200	300	400	450	650
One-story country house with attic	30	300	350	600	650	850	A different type of foundation is needed
Two-story cottage	50	500	600		Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	A different type of foundation is needed
Two or three story mansion	70	650	850	Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	A different type of foundation is needed
The table shows the average load force on the ground of buildings of various types
In each specific case, an individual calculation is definitely welcome
For reference: 1 kg = 9.81 N; 1 kN = 101.9 kg; 10 kN = 1019 kg
The table is based on data from the British National Building Regulations 2010.

Site marking

When the necessary calculations of the foundation have been made, the architectural plan of the building has been drawn up and, accordingly, the location of the load-bearing walls has been determined, markings are made on the site chosen for construction.

The most important issue is the correct marking of the foundation on the ground

Before marking, the future site must be cleared of foreign objects and debris, and the top fertile layer of soil approximately 120 ÷ 150 mm thick must be removed. Organic residues can lead to biological decomposition processes, which is undesirable for basements.
Preliminary work is carried out on the prepared site. marking the corners of the future building by driving in pegs.

Next, the evenness of the arrangement is carefully checked and the distance between them is specified. The pegs are rearranged as needed. A strong cord is pulled over them, with the help of which it will be easier to control the straightness of the corners and determine the correct direction of the foundation strip.

Sometimes pre-made wooden ones are used to mark the corners. details - rectangles. First, place one rectangle at the desired point and secure it.

Next, two cords are tied to it at a distance the width of the trench under the foundation, they are pulled to the next place where the second corner is installed, and then the stretched cords are tied to it.

In this way, all four corners of the house are marked, and if load-bearing walls are also provided inside the building, then they are marked.

After all the angles have been set, it is necessary to check the length of the diagonals of the designated rectangle or square. If they are equal, then all angles are set correctly.
Next, along the cord, you can sprinkle dry lime powder - it will visually show the direction, and perhaps reveal some errors.
When marking the contour of the foundation and the internal walls of the house is completed, you need to mark the foundation for the porch or terrace in the same way.

If you plan to install a brick stove or fireplace in your house, then it makes sense to immediately take care of the foundation for this structure. However, the tape for the house and the stove under the stove should not be rigidly connected to each other.

After the marking has been carried out, you can begin fairly large-scale excavation work.

Digging a trench

Along the marked lines, trenches are dug to a depth specified in the calculations of specialists, and which will depend on the type of building being erected on the foundation.

Digging a pit should begin from the bottom corner of the foundation - this will help maintain the same depth of the trench throughout its entire length.
When digging soil, you should try to keep the walls of the trench level and vertical. If the soil begins to crumble around the ground, then temporary supports are installed in weak spots.
During the work process, measurements are periodically taken of the depth and slope of the bottom of the trench being dug. If the foundation is installed on a slope, then it is important that the trench has the same depth along the entire perimeter of its structure.

Preparing the pit bottom

At the bottom of the finished trench, it is necessary to arrange a sand cushion, which should have a thickness of at least 150 ÷ 200 mm in a well-compacted form. It will help to properly redistribute the loads created by the mass of the structure onto the finished foundation. This technique is especially important if construction is taking place on unstable, heaving soils.

Next, it is recommended to make a sand cushion roofing felt flooring, which will protect the sand cushion from erosion and will prevent laitance from being absorbed from the concrete when pouring the solution into the pit.

In addition, roofing felt will serve as waterproofing for the underground part of the foundation. The material is not only covered at the bottom, but also wrapped onto the walls of the trench by 150 ÷ 200 mm.

Installation of formwork

It is installed in the prepared trench. It can be knocked down from boards, which will be dismantled after the solution hardens, or it can be made permanent, thereby insulating the foundation at the same time.

If it is decided to install the formwork from boards, then panels are knocked down from them and installed vertically at the bottom of the trench. The formwork should rise above the ground to the height to which it is planned to raise the basement of the house, but usually no less than 350 ÷ 400 mm.

— The shields are fastened together by crossbars, and on the outer sides they are supported by scraps of timber. Sometimes, in order for the plank walls not to diverge when pouring concrete under pressure, it is necessary to additionally twist them with steel wire.

— If it is planned to make holes in the foundation for communications, then a piece of pipe is installed as a spacer between the panels, inside the formwork.

— When installing a wooden structure, you need to periodically check its evenness - this is done using a building level, otherwise the foundation may turn out crooked and will have to be leveled after it is ready.

A permanent foundation consists of blocks of , which are installed on top of each other and are held in place by the jagged cutouts present on the edges of the blocks and their corresponding grooves. Expanded polystyrene in such formwork can have different thicknesses and serves as a good insulation material for the structure. Such blocks are produced in different widths, so they can be selected for any foundation.

The blocks do not require spacers or additional fastenings - they themselves are fully designed to reliably hold the concrete poured into them.

Another formwork option that can be called combined. It consists of installed board panels, and inside the formwork, insulation, approximately 30 mm thick, is pressed against them - this can be expanded polystyrene or penoizol.

The material will not only insulate the foundation, but will also not allow cement laitance to leak out through the gaps between the boards or premature evaporation of moisture from the poured concrete, which means that the process of maturation and strength gain will take place in an optimal manner.

Installation of reinforcement grid

The next step is to install it in the formwork. It is made from a metal rod having a diameter of 8 ÷ 15 mm. The rods are cut into sections equal to the length of the walls, and they intersect at their corners. It is not recommended to fasten the rods by welding, since this will cause them to lose their mutual mobility and, when the structure shrinks, this can destroy the foundation. Therefore, they are twisted with steel wire.

If insulation material is installed inside the formwork, then it is desirable that the perpendicular sections of the reinforcement fit into the insulation - this way it will be securely fastened to the edges of the formwork.

An accurate calculation of the reinforcing belt is carried out by foundation designers taking into account m numerous criteria - the type and total mass of the building, soil stability, seismic characteristics of the region, and other quantities.

Pouring the foundation

If this option is not possible for one reason or another (for example, the absence of a corresponding company or completely unacceptable prices), then the concrete is poured in layers. But even in this case, you cannot do without mechanizing the process, which means you will definitely need a concrete mixer.

When ordering the finished material, the concrete solution is mixed at stationary production units in the required proportion, and delivered in special vehicles equipped with a concrete mixer and feed mechanisms.

— Next, a special gutter is installed through which the solution flows into the prepared formwork. It must be distributed using a shovel along the entire length of the structure until it is filled to the intended top.

— The surface of the concrete is leveled and left to set, mature and gain strength.

— The hardening time for such a structure is about four weeks in the warm season. Some work, for example, stripping and preparing for further operations, but without a significant load on the tape, can begin after 16 ÷ 20 days.

It is not recommended to fill the foundation in winter, but if it is — necessary measure, then both the composition of the concrete solution and the completion time of the poured structure will be completely different. This is described in more detail in the corresponding article on our portal -.

In this case, the work will be carried out independently, they are carried out in the following sequence:

— First of all, the solution for pouring is prepared. As mentioned above, it will require cement and sand in proportions of 1: 2 or 1: 2.5, as well as 4 parts of crushed stone. The mixture is poured with water and kneaded.

- If all the materials are mixed in, then they are placed in the same proportions and a solution is prepared, which is then immediately poured into the formwork. Using such an installation, the work will certainly go much faster, and with the support of good assistants, the work can often be completed in one day.

- If the solution is mixed manually, then you will have to act in stages. So, the first layer of concrete solution is poured into formwork 150 ÷ 200 mm thick and compacted well with a wooden block. The entire formwork along the entire length along the perimeter must be filled with a completely uniform layer of equal thickness.

The next day, the same procedure is carried out, and so on until the formwork is filled to the top.

— It is recommended to cover the poured foundation with burlap, and if concrete work is carried out in the summer heat, then it is covered with plastic film so that rapid evaporation of moisture does not occur and the concrete hardens evenly.

A foundation made in layers matures faster than one poured at once. However, its strength is significantly lower, and there is a possibility of damage to the structure in winter during severe frosts if moisture suddenly appears between the layers. Therefore, it is necessary to apply a waterproofing coating to the foundation poured in this way, and it is also advisable to insulate it.

Prices for popular models of concrete mixers

To mix the solution, you need to use materials that are free of soil and clay - gravel, sand and water.
The proportions of the solution may vary, but crushed stones or gravel should always be taken 1.5 ÷ 2 times more than sand.
Water in the solution should be approximately 50% of the mass of cement (not to be confused with volume! )
If you have to use wet sand to prepare concrete, this must be taken into account when adding water to the concrete mixer so as not to make the solution too liquid.
When mixing and pouring the foundation in cold weather, it is recommended to mix the solution with heated water - this will speed up the setting and hardening of the concrete.
If the solution is too thick, then after pouring the solution into the foundation, tamping or frequent piercing with a metal rod is necessary. This process is carried out to remove the air remaining in the solution, otherwise so-called sinks may form inside the foundation.
In addition, the formwork with the newly poured mortar is tapped with a wooden hammer - this process also helps the air to escape to the surface of the mortar.
Removal of formwork is carried out no earlier than 5 ÷ 7 days after pouring the solution, and further large-scale actions can be carried out only after a month.
Insulation and waterproofing of the foundation will be mandatory, as already mentioned, when pouring it layer by layer. However, it is better to make it a rule that these technological operations should be carried out in any case. This will dramatically increase the strength and durability of the foundation and, naturally, the entire structure. How to carry out the foundation - read in the publications of our portal.

It should be noted that a strip foundation is the optimal basis for many buildings, and its implementation is much easier than a monolithic slab. And at the end of the article - a video example of the correct arrangement of a strip foundation:

Video: how to properly pour a strip foundation

Construction of a house begins with the foundation. Building materials for its construction are often selected taking into account regional availability. In some areas, the cost of a strip foundation is comparable to a reliable foundation structure built from granite. Such a foundation firmly holds a house of any size, even built on black soil and other unstable soil. Taking into account modern construction requirements, the main purpose of the review is to talk about innovative approaches and how to make a strip foundation guaranteed to be reliable.

If there is no possibility of constructing an “airbag” for a house made of high-strength material, craftsmen recommend that novice builders use ready-made foundation blocks. This construction option will help to avoid a number of mistakes, which for a number of reasons are not taken into account in cases where the strip foundation is built with your own hands.

Classic mistakes when building strip foundations

The strip foundation remains the most affordable option for constructing the foundation of a house with your own hands and is recommended for the construction of light houses. Meanwhile, the strength of the foundation depends not only on the conditions of its construction, but also on the territorial features of the area. Let's look at the main mistakes when constructing strip foundations, as well as how to avoid them.

Geological and hydrological works

Before starting work, it is recommended to obtain geological and hydrological survey data, which, when developing a project, will allow making calculations based on the location. Most standard projects, as expected, were made without taking into account the characteristics of the soil, so in some regions one can observe abnormal behavior of the foundation.

Strip foundations installed on black soil are not considered a solid foundation for any residential building. Typically, areas of black soil under the foundation are selected, covered in layers with sand, carefully compacted using water and covered with a bed of crushed granite stone.

Features of Extreme Design

When building a house yourself, you can conduct a soil analysis on your own. To do this, you need to drill the area in 2-3 places and check the depth of the fertile layer, water, clay and sand. It will be useful to ask your neighbors about the features of foundations that have stood for several decades:

to what depth the foundations were buried;
types and materials used for the device;
about the presence of a drainage system near the house;
about cases of soil sliding on slopes.

Errors during work and installation

Construction of foundations in autumn-winter

Foundations are not installed on waterlogged and frozen soil, or on snow. The construction of a concrete foundation in winter is undesirable or must be carried out using strict technology using construction equipment. When concrete is laid in a trench on snow, voids filled with water are formed.

Heaving soils and their features

A standard error is the lack of soil when digging a trench under the foundation to the design level. According to SNiP, in heaving soils it is allowed to deepen the base of the foundation below the calculated freezing depth.

On heaving soils, pile and strip-buried (strip-pile type) foundations are not installed. Piles hold the foundation in place, and heaving forces push it to the surface, as a result of which the concrete strip is very likely to crack or the pile to break off.

Reducing the likelihood of soil heaving on any soil

To prevent heaving, drainage is laid under the base of the foundation, clay is selected and the foundation pit is filled with sand and crushed stone, eliminating the source of heaving. On such soils, the blind area must be insulated, which prevents the foundation from freezing and eliminates the possibility of heaving.

Pasting and thermal insulation of the outer side allows you to shift the dew point beyond the boundaries of the foundation, which eliminates the influence of tangential heaving forces.

Foundation protection includes:

gluing waterproofing film;
installation of XPS polystyrene foam (high density);
cover with 2 layers of dense polyethylene;
Additionally, sheets of polystyrene PSB 25 are pressed to the foundation by backfilling with soil.

Principle: soil heaving forces crush PSB 25, which moves up the polyethylene without damaging the main thermal insulation. After thawing, the structure restores its sandwich structure.

Do-it-yourself strip foundation photo: step-by-step instructions

Basic strip foundation structures: their appearance and design diagrams

Depending on the characteristics of the soil and the type of construction, choose the design of the future concrete foundation of the house. When building houses on black soil, buried and deep-buried modifications are used. When building on black soil, the depth of the foundation depends on the thickness of the black soil layer. In some cases it reaches 2 m.

Trench and sub-concrete waterproofing

Communications

Simultaneously with the removal of soil for the foundation, the preparation of communications that must be connected to the house is carried out. At this stage, special attention should be paid to the house sewer pit and the waste drainage device. If water will be supplied from a well, it is necessary to make simultaneous preparation of communications, since the laying of water supply pipes is carried out at a depth of 1.5-2 m.

After removing the soil to the design level, sand is poured in layers of 10 cm with water. In some cases, the cushion can reach 40-80 cm; with high groundwater or a desire to make a safety cushion at low cost, the thickness of the backfill is 40-80 cm, of which up to 2/3 of the height can be crushed stone.

Next, formwork is laid 10 cm deep; it should be twice as wide as the base of the tape and filled with “lean” concrete (B7.5 mixture). After the mixture reaches 70 strength, a waterproofing membrane or polyethylene 0.15 mm thick is laid with a margin of 20-30 cm from the edge of the tape - drains.

A reinforcing belt made of reinforcing wire 10-12 mm (on moving soils up to 16 mm, grade A400) is laid on top and bottom of the trench, fastening it with a spatial wire frame (grade A240, 6-8 mm). Laying is done on plastic spacers 2-4 cm wide. The upper level of the frame should be located close to the surface, no deeper than 5 cm, under the fastening layer of concrete.

The reinforcement is usually overlapped with a size of 50 diameters of reinforcing wire according to the new SNiP requirements (with 12 mm wire the overlap is 60 cm, previously the requirements assumed an overlap of 20-30 cm). At the corners, the reinforcement cannot be installed end-to-end; in the corners, L-shaped and U-shaped shapes are used and fastened according to the scheme shown in the photo.

install sleeves in the reinforcing belt to enter communications into the cottage or carry out simultaneous installation of pipes;
40 cm from the blind area in the formwork of houses with beamed floors, it is necessary to provide for the installation of void formers to ensure ventilation of the subfloor, prevent corrosion, rotting and ensure the removal of harmful radon. The dimensions of the ventilation openings should be a total of 1/400 from the basement of the house.

To fill the foundation, use ready-made or home-made formwork. Shields can be made of OSB boards, plywood or boards. The shields are secured using internal ties, as shown in the photo. Ready-made formwork allows you to concrete structures with complex shapes.

Pouring the foundation

It is advisable to use ready-mixed concrete for foundations. In this case, it is possible to carry out winter work, since for these purposes a special brand of solution is used that hardens in the cold. The brand is selected depending on the type of structure:

M100 – for wooden houses and outbuildings;
M150 – for buildings made of foam concrete;
M200 – for one- and two-story cottages with light floors;
M250 and M300 - for buildings up to 5 floors, as well as for monolithic floors;
M400 – for multi-storey buildings (up to 20 floors).

It is not recommended to fill a layer of no more than 60 cm at a time. Deep foundations are poured in several stages, with a break between them of no more than 2 hours. Concrete can be poured after 12 hours, but the surface film must be cleaned off with brushes or removed with water pressure. Concrete must be placed in the trench with a vibratory compactor. Loose concrete does not gain the declared brand strength.

The formwork is removed no earlier than after 3 days. During this period, the upper part of the tape is moistened with sawdust or rags moistened with water, which will provide the required level of strength and also avoid the formation of craters and cracks.

When laying a concrete foundation, it is not advisable to neglect vertical waterproofing (of the base walls), this will help protect it from damage and ensure long-term operation. This is especially important for those areas that are characterized by winter thaws, during which the foundation is moistened and goes through several freezing cycles.

Do not neglect horizontal insulation, the absence of which can lead to the appearance of fungus on the walls and increased humidity, since moisture from a moistened foundation will be absorbed into the walls of the first floor.

DIY strip foundation video

How to make a strip foundation with your own hands video: monolithic slab

In conclusion, we present one of the modern solutions. As you know, one of the types of strip foundation is a monolithic slab. The technology for constructing a monolithic insulated Swedish slab (USP) is an innovative development that is becoming increasingly popular. And it can also be made with your own hands.

The base of the house is a reliable sandwich structure, which provides the necessary strength to the base of the house and its insulation. This technological solution is used for the construction of passive houses, in which the internal heat of the building is retained to reduce energy costs. Above we showed how to make a foundation with your own hands, video, now we offer technology for constructing USP.

The construction issue is covered in detail in the video.

The strip foundation belongs to the category of monolithic foundations, used primarily in the construction of residential buildings. It is not difficult to make such a structure with your own hands; you just need to take into account such points as the characteristics of the soil and climate at the construction site, the type of future building and, in general, the rules for arranging such foundations.

A strip foundation is the most preferable option when building houses using frame technology, constructing garages, constructing bathhouses and various buildings for utility purposes.

Before starting work, you need to collect the necessary tools and building materials so as not to be distracted by searching for them in the future.

Devices for building a strip foundation with your own hands.

Shovel and bayonet shovels.
Fittings.
Wire or rope for marking.
Laser roulette.
Hydraulic level.
Boards for assembling formwork. You can also use corrugated sheets, plywood sheets and other similar materials.
Fasteners for fixing formwork elements.
Tamping. It is more convenient if it is electric.
Sand.
Fittings. Traditionally, rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used.
Wire for fixing reinforcement intersection nodes.
Wooden hammer.
Overalls.
Master OK.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring yourself, additionally prepare the ingredients for preparing the mixture. You will need cement, sand and aggregate in the form of gravel or crushed stone. Also prepare a concrete mixer or at least container for manual mixing. A concrete mixer will allow you to significantly reduce the time spent on laying out the foundation. The job can be done even faster and easier by ordering ready-made concrete from a specialized company. At this point, focus on your preferences and available money.

The work of arranging a strip foundation with your own hands begins with preparing the markings. It will allow you to navigate the next steps and pour the concrete as correctly as possible.

Take the reinforcement bars and use them to mark the outer corners of the future foundation. Stretch a strong rope over the installed rods. Instead, you can use fishing line or, for example, thin wire. This way you will outline the outer boundaries of the structure.

It is important that the external angles are 90 degrees. To clarify this point, use a laser tape measure. You can get by with an ordinary protractor. In the absence of even such a basic tool, simply connect the corners with diagonals and measure their length. If the diagonals are the same length, the angles are right and you can safely continue working.

At the next stage of marking the internal perimeter of the strip concrete base is marked. To do this, retreat a distance inward that would be equal to the thickness of the foundation, and also drive in reinforcement bars. To determine the thickness of the foundation, you need to know the parameters of the future building. On average, a thickness of 40 cm is taken as a guideline. Stretch a rope over the installed rods.

You need to start digging the trench from the lowest angle. To determine it, use a hydraulic level. Mark the depth of the foundation at the lowest corner. You can continue digging in any direction. The main thing is that the bottom is strictly horizontal, otherwise the finished foundation will have distortions. Control horizontality using the same hydraulic level. The walls of the trench must be vertical. This point is usually checked using a tool known as a plumb bob.

Cushion installation and formwork installation

The technology for arranging a strip foundation requires the creation of a cushion. Thanks to this structural element, the most even distribution of future loads will be ensured. The pillow is created from sand. It is necessary to fill a layer with a thickness of 15 cm. Moisten the poured sand with water and thoroughly compact it using a power tool specially designed for this purpose. The backfill should be as smooth as possible. Use a level to check that it is horizontal.

Additionally, you need to pour a small layer of sand on the sand and lay waterproofing material. Typically, polyethylene film or roofing felt is used to protect the structure from the harmful effects of moisture.

Next comes the formwork assembly stage. If you want to save money, you can use various remnants from previous construction work for this work: old plywood, wooden boards, corrugated sheets and other similar materials. The formwork elements are fastened together using screws and nails of suitable length. To ensure that the walls of the future foundation are as smooth as possible, the fastener heads must be placed on the inside of the structure. In the future, such formwork can be dismantled without much effort.

Select the height of the formwork so that its walls rise above the ground surface by at least 30 cm. Mark the upper boundary of the foundation pouring using a cord, wire or fishing line.

At the same stage, think about how the ventilation ducts, water supply and other utilities will go through, and provide openings for them. In the future, it is strictly not recommended to violate the integrity of the slab, because this will inevitably lead to a deterioration in its strength. In places where communications will pass, it is necessary to lay pipes pre-filled with sand. This filling will prevent damage to the pipes during pouring of the foundation and will not allow concrete to penetrate into their cavities.

At the next stage of work, the reinforcement frame is laid. Traditionally, rods with a diameter of 12 mm are used. Use tie wire to secure the reinforcement. As a result, you need to get square cells with a side of about 30 cm. Instead of wire binding, you can use a welded connection, but it is more susceptible to corrosion.

The reinforcement must begin to be laid at a distance of half a meter from the bottom of the pit and the walls of the formwork system. This is a protective measure that will prevent the development of corrosion and protect the metal from the negative effects of groundwater.

Before pouring concrete, you need to determine the required amount. This is done extremely simply. First, the volume of the base is determined, for which the width of the structure must be multiplied by its future height and length.

The solution can be ordered or made independently. It is prepared from 1 part cement, 3 parts fine aggregate (sand) and, as a rule, 5 parts coarse aggregate (crushed stone, gravel). The mixture of dry ingredients is diluted with water until the required consistency is obtained. It is much more convenient and easier to use industrial concrete. In the vast majority of cases it will be of higher quality. And it is very difficult to prepare such a quantity of solution yourself.

Filling must be carried out taking into account the following requirements and standards:

the solution is poured in several layers. The thickness of each of them should not exceed 200 mm;
Each layer of fill must be compacted. Typically, wooden tampers are used for this;
the walls of the formwork structure must be tapped so that they do not “sink” into the concrete;
filling is carried out to the pre-designated level.

Finally, the poured concrete must be pierced with reinforcement or treated with a special vibrating rammer to remove air. Additionally, the filling is leveled with a trowel. It also needs to be tapped thoroughly with a wooden hammer.

After this treatment, you just have to wait until the fill dries and gains strength. On average, this takes 1-1.5 months. During rain and at night, the structure must be covered with plastic film. In hot weather, concrete must be regularly moistened with water, otherwise it may crack.

The technology for arranging a monolithic strip base requires the mandatory installation of a waterproofing layer. Without it, concrete will be subject to the harmful effects of groundwater and melt water. Such contacts will lead to a decrease in the strength of the slab, which will jeopardize the safety of the building, as well as everyone in it.

Waterproofing can be done using a variety of materials. The most budget-friendly and easiest-to-install option is roofing felt. It is necessary to line the bottom of the pit. In the future, after the concrete has hardened and the formwork can be removed, the walls of the structure need to be covered with roofing felt. This method, although simple, is not very effective. Roofing felt cannot be called a strong and durable material; it needs regular repairs. Ignoring repair work will lead to the fact that the waterproofing will lose a significant part of its properties, the concrete will begin to become saturated with moisture, and this will cause the destruction of the base.

There are many different mastics available on the market that can be used to create effective and durable waterproofing. You can choose the most optimal option specifically for you in terms of reliability and cost.

Among the most modern and effective methods for constructing a moisture protective layer are: penetrating waterproofing. To create it, a special mixture of components is used that penetrate into the very depths of concrete through its capillaries. When interacting with moisture, the composition crystallizes, as a result of which the foundation turns into a completely monolithic and absolutely waterproof structure.

It is best to add such penetrating waterproofing directly to the concrete mixture during the preparation process. Specific recommendations for the required amount of the mixture are given in the instructions; be sure to study it before using the composition.

Thus, there is nothing overly complicated in independently arranging a strip base. Follow the rules received and you will receive a reliable, durable and high-quality foundation that can ensure the safety of both the building and the people in it. Good luck!

Video - DIY strip foundation

The construction of buildings begins with a load-bearing foundation, which determines not only the service life of the structure itself, but also shapes the comfort and microclimate inside the premises. Strip foundations are one of the most popular types of foundations used both for the construction of private housing and for the construction of technical buildings.

Features of strip foundation

A strip foundation is a load-bearing foundation, which is a closed loop in the form of a strip of reinforced concrete, brick and block building materials. The tape is erected under the load-bearing walls of the building, which contributes to the uniform distribution of the load and its further transfer to the underlying layers of the soil.

For the manufacture of monolithic strip foundations, high-strength concrete grades are used

The design of the strip foundation allows the construction of buildings both from wood and foam concrete, and from brick and concrete blocks. When constructing a foundation, a large amount of excavation and construction work is required. Despite this, strip foundations are popular both among summer residents and owners of suburban areas, as well as among professionals.

The foundation is laid on a pre-compacted bed of sand and gravel. After hardening, the supporting tape is covered with an insulating material that will protect the integrity of the reinforced concrete surface. If the total weight of the structure being erected is small (up to 50 tons), then the preparation of the underlying cushion can be neglected.

The configuration of the supporting tape depends on the shape of the walls of the building being constructed

The competitive advantages of strip foundations include:

proven and refined technology over the years. A properly constructed foundation will evenly distribute the load placed on it without the risk of collapse of the building’s load-bearing structures;
strength. The monolithic foundation design ensures high reliability and durability. If the technology is followed, the service life of the foundation can reach 100 years or more;
versatility. Strip foundations can be used both for heaving and mobile soil types, as well as for loamy and clayey soil types. To improve performance, it is possible to combine it with vertical piles and supports.

The disadvantages include the fact that the construction of a strip foundation is a very labor-intensive process that requires the investment of a considerable amount of finance. On average, the cost of a load-bearing foundation is 15–20% of the total budget allocated for building a house.

The foundation construction technology assumes that the tape will be poured during a work shift, and it is problematic to prepare such a volume of concrete mixture even with the help of a concrete mixer. Because of this, there is a need to purchase concrete from the manufacturer, which is also a significant waste.

Types of strip foundations by depth

According to SNiP 3.02.01–87 “Earth structures, foundations and foundations”, strip load-bearing foundations are classified according to two criteria:

by depth;
according to the device method.

The depth of the foundation depends on the bearing capacity of the soil and the design load that will be exerted on the foundation being built. The bearing capacity of the soil is determined based on its type, freezing depth and the presence of groundwater in the area where the building is planned to be built. Read about the design and method of constructing a strip foundation in the next section.

Shallow strip foundation

A shallow strip foundation is a strip of concrete and a reinforcing frame located at a shallow depth in the ground. The minimum laying level depends on the depth of soil freezing, its heaving and the height of groundwater.

A shallow strip foundation can be made of reinforced concrete, brick or foam blocks

For example, if the groundwater is high and the depth of soil freezing is large, then the foundation will be affected by both lateral and tangential heaving forces, which will compress and displace the shallowly buried load-bearing tape. And vice versa - the lower the groundwater level and the higher the level of soil freezing, the less the impact of heaving forces.

The recommended minimum depth of the strip foundation can be found in SNiP II-B.1-62. For your reference, we offer a table compiled based on data from this document. On average in Russia, the laying depth varies from 0.4 to 0.75 m. Additionally, you can consider the depth of seasonal soil freezing in the region where it is planned to lay the load-bearing foundation.

Table: foundation depth depending on the level of soil freezing

The depth of laying a shallow strip foundation in the central region of Russia should not be less than 0.5 m

The construction of shallow strip foundations is recommended in the following cases:

in regions with high average annual temperatures and shallow soil freezing depth;
during the construction of private houses using frame technology, as well as buildings made of aerated concrete, foam concrete and other low-weight materials;
when insulating the load-bearing base from the outside, coupled with the arrangement of a blind area made of crushed stone, sand and concrete.

The construction of a shallow strip foundation on soil consisting of peat, sapropel, silt and other organic deposits is strictly prohibited. It is not recommended to build this type of strip foundation on mixed and heaving soil types that are oversaturated with moisture.

Recessed strip foundation

A buried foundation or deep foundation is a load-bearing reinforced concrete or prefabricated strip located 20–30 cm lower than the freezing level of the soil.

The depth of laying the carrier tape can reach 1.5–2 m, depending on the level of soil freezing

The main idea of deep laying of the load-bearing tape is to rely on dense layers of soil that have a higher load-bearing capacity. This type of foundation involves even larger volumes of excavation work and the cost of concrete mixture.

The construction of a deep strip foundation is recommended:

in regions with low temperatures in winter and soil freezing to great depths;
if you plan to build a two- or three-story house made of brick, reinforced concrete blocks and slabs;
in the presence of fine-grained soil types, supersaturated with moisture.

In addition, a buried foundation allows you to build a basement. With high-quality insulation and sufficient insulation, it is possible to arrange a basement floor intended for living or storing things.

Types of strip foundations according to construction method

Depending on the design features, strip foundations can be monolithic or prefabricated. They, in turn, can be divided into monolithic foundations with vertical supports and prefabricated strips made of brick or foam block.

Monolithic strip foundation

When installing a monolithic strip foundation, reinforcement and pouring of the foundation are carried out directly at the construction site. As a result, the overall integrity and continuity of the carrier tape is achieved.

A monolithic strip foundation is a continuous reinforced concrete strip along the entire perimeter of the building

Depending on the geology of the site, the depth of a monolithic foundation varies from 80 to 250 cm. When constructing private houses, the depth of laying rarely exceeds 150 cm.

Monolithic types of foundations, regardless of technology, are used for the construction of objects for various purposes on heaving and moving types of soil. The solidity of the structure ensures high strength and reliability of the load-bearing base.

Pile and columnar strip foundation

Pile-tape and column-tape foundation types are a monolithic strip of reinforced concrete located on supports buried in the ground. Essentially, these types of foundations - nothing more than a modernized version of pile or columnar foundations with a grillage.

Pillars or piles are located along the perimeter of the foundation in increments of 2 m

In the first case, steel products in the form of piles of various lengths are used as supports, which are screwed into the ground manually or automatically. In the second, the supports are made from the same concrete mixture that is used to fill the supporting tape.

The arrangement of pile and columnar strip foundations is justified only when constructing objects in areas with a large depth of soil freezing. Steel piles or reinforced concrete pillars, buried below the freezing level of the soil, will distribute the load that is transmitted from the reinforced concrete strip.

Prefabricated strip foundation

The main material for the construction of a prefabricated strip foundation is reinforced concrete foundation blocks (FBC), made from heavy grades of concrete. The blocks form a load-bearing foundation strip, which is located along the perimeter and area of the future structure. To connect the blocks to each other, concrete grade M350 and steel reinforcement Ø15 mm are used.

After assembling the foundation, the outer surface of the load-bearing base is treated with waterproofing materials. The most commonly used are bitumen mastic and special bitumen membranes that have a self-adhesive base.

Prefabricated strip foundation consists of reinforced concrete foundation blocks connected by concrete

The main advantage of a prefabricated strip foundation is the short construction time. Unlike a monolithic base, you do not have to wait for the concrete mixture to reach the minimum strength. You can start building a house within a few days from the moment the tape is assembled.

Despite this advantage, prefabricated strip foundations are used for the construction of private houses a little less frequently than a monolithic concrete foundation. This is largely due to the fact that the prefabricated structure is not suitable for use on moving types of soil. With the same thickness, the strength indicators of a prefabricated structure are 20–30% lower than a monolithic one.

Brick strip foundations are a prefabricated structure and are often used for the construction of one-story houses using frame technology. Burnt solid brick is used to make the tape. Laying depth - 40–50 cm.

A brick strip foundation is highly repairable, but requires high-quality waterproofing

After assembly, as in the case of blocks, it is necessary to install a full waterproofing layer. The advantages of this foundation include:

structural rigidity;
high maintainability;
simplicity of arrangement.

If we make a more detailed comparison of bricks with reinforced concrete blocks, then foundations made of blocks are less hygroscopic and have higher strength. Brick is more fragile, which affects not only the frequency of repairs, but also the service life of the structure as a whole. Taking this into account, it is recommended to build a brick strip foundation in areas with dry and hard soil, as well as in areas with low groundwater levels.

How to make a strip foundation for a house

In order to begin the construction of a strip foundation, you will need to perform calculation operations, during which you need to find out the depth of the foundation and the width of the supporting strip. If possible, these works can be delegated and contacted by a design and construction organization, where they will calculate all the necessary parameters on the basis of which a project for the future foundation will be drawn up.

Calculation of strip foundation

If you decide to carry out soil surveys and draw up a project yourself, then be prepared that even a small mistake made can lead to the destruction of the house. Especially if you are planning to build a two- or three-story building.

Table: depth of strip foundation depending on soil type

Type of building	Depth of strip foundation (cm) depending on soil type
		Rocky soil, opoka	Dense clay, soft loam	Packed dry sand, sandy loam	Soft sand, silty soil	Very soft sand, sandy loam, silty soil	peat bog
Barn, bathhouse, outbuildings. the buildings	20	20	30	40	45	65
One-story cottage with attic	30	30	35	60	65	85	A different type of foundation is needed
Two-story dacha	50	50	60		Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	A different type of foundation is needed
Multi-storey cottage	70	65	85	Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	Requires specialist calculations	A different type of foundation is needed

For low-rise buildings made of wood, garages, bathhouses, chicken coops and technical buildings, calculations can be performed taking into account the recommendations given in SNiP II-B.1-62 “Foundations of buildings and structures”.

The simplest option is to check the known parameters with a special table that allows you to determine the depth of the strip base. The table mentioned is shown above. For reference: 1 kN = 101.9 kg. The table was compiled based on European standards adopted in 2010.

To level the area, improvised means, hand tools and special equipment are used.

As an example, let's calculate the parameters of the strip foundation required to build a one-story dacha made of timber, the length of which is 8 m and the width is 6 m. The height of the dacha, not including the roof, is 2.5 m. The structure will be built on the ground of dry fine sand. The depth of soil freezing is 1.4 m, which corresponds to the central part of Russia.

The sequence for calculating a strip foundation is as follows:

Weight of the building - to calculate the total weight of the building, it is necessary to have a building design that describes what materials will be used to build it. On average, the weight of a one-story timber structure with an attic space is no more than 70 tons. To this value should be added the weight of thermal insulation materials, floors and partitions, as well as the snow load (160–240 kg/m2). As a result, it turns out that on average a one-story dacha with the parameters mentioned above will weigh about 100 tons.
Foundation area - length of the supporting tape: (6 + 8) * 2 + 6 = 34 m. The width of the tape is selected depending on the weight, but not less than 20 cm. As a result, it turns out that the surface area of the foundation is: 28 * 0.2 m = 6.8 m2. This value can be adjusted in the future.
Laying depth - the soil consists of dry sand, the freezing depth of which is 1.4 m. From this we can conclude that the soil in the area is not heaving. Therefore, for the construction of a one-story dacha, you can use a shallow foundation with a laying depth of 0.6 m.
Load on the supporting tape - according to SNiP 2.02.01–83 “Foundations of buildings and structures”, the formula is used to calculate the load: P = total weight of the building / foundation area. For fine sandy soil, the obtained value should be less than 20 tons (value taken from DBN V.2.1–10–2009). In our case, P = 100 / 6.8 = 14.7 t/m2.

Based on this, we can conclude that the previously indicated width of the supporting tape (0.2 m) is ideal for a one-story dacha weighing no more than 100 tons. As a result, it turns out that to build a timber dacha with an area of 48 m2, a strip foundation 0.2 m wide is required, which will be buried 0.6 m into the ground.

Using the tables given in this article and SNiP 2.02.01–83, you can perform a calculation for any strip foundation that will be erected on non-heaving soil types. Data on the weight of building materials can be taken from open sources, and online calculators can be used for rough calculations.

Site preparation

After all calculation operations have been completed and a design for the foundation and future building has been received, you can proceed to preparing the land plot. During preparation, it is necessary to clean and mark the surface of the area using available means.

Marking the area for a strip foundation is done using wooden pegs and a strong rope that is stretched between them

To prepare, you will need to complete the following steps:

For the final check, it is necessary to measure the diagonals of the foundation site. To do this, the thread is pulled crosswise. If everything is done correctly, the diagonals will be equal. Otherwise, you need to double-check the corners using the device and rearrange the pegs.

Digging a trench

During excavation work, it will be necessary to dig trenches to the design depth, which is calculated taking into account the type of soil and the foundation being built. To do this, you can use both special equipment and hand tools in the form of shovels and crowbars.

The trench for the strip foundation is dug to the design depth of the load-bearing foundation and underlying cushion

To arrange trenches around the perimeter of the foundation, you will need to perform the following activities:

Formwork installation

For the manufacture of formwork, edged boards of 20×150, 20×175 or 20×299 mm are used, which are fastened with wooden blocks of 50×50 mm. If possible, you can use moisture-resistant plywood, which is mounted on a pre-assembled timber frame. The principle of constructing formwork panels is shown in the photo below.

Installation of formwork is carried out in the following sequence:

If the foundation provides for the laying of pipes for communications and the creation of ventilation gaps, then special holes of the required cross-section are cut into the formwork. For this, an electric drill with a crown attachment is used.

Video: installing formwork

Installation of reinforcing frame

To reinforce the strip foundation, a frame made of steel reinforcement Ø12–15 mm is used. The frame is assembled by welding or using steel wire.

The knitting of the reinforcing frame occurs as follows:

When knitting, remember that the frame must be hidden under a layer of concrete to a depth of 5–6 cm. The maximum length of the lintel with a tape width of 40 cm should not exceed 30 cm.

To speed up the knitting process, you can purchase a special construction gun, which works on the principle of a stapler, but instead of the usual staples, it uses steel wire of the required cross-section.

Video: how to knit reinforcement cage

Pouring concrete mixture

When constructing strip foundations for private housing, a concrete mixture of grade M200, M250, M300 or M350 is used. Concrete grade M200, as a rule, is used only for small frame baths and utility rooms. Concrete of higher grades is for pouring foundations for the construction of two- and three-story houses, and concrete M350 is only for large buildings.

The foundation is poured strictly in one step, so it is important to ensure the required volume of concrete mixture, which is calculated based on the size of the foundation. If it is not possible to prepare the required amount of concrete, then the foundation is poured in layers with the obligatory compaction of each layer.

The proportions of the solution when mixing the mixture yourself are 1 part cement, 2 parts sifted sand and 4 parts crushed stone of fraction 20–40. When changing the proportions of the solution, you should remember that there should be 1.5–2 times more crushed stone than sand.

Automated supply of concrete mixture will greatly speed up the process of pouring a strip base

You can start pouring the mixture from any convenient place in the trench. Concrete is supplied in portions so that it can be evenly distributed throughout the volume of the trench. To compact the mixture, a reinforcement rod or wooden lath is used.

The last portion of concrete is leveled along the tensioned guideline. To do this, raw concrete is filled with dry cement and rubbed with a wooden float. After this, the foundation is covered with plastic film and moistened with a small amount of water 2-3 times a day.

The concrete strip foundation will gain full strength no earlier than after 27 days, but after 14–17 days the formwork can be dismantled. After 27–30 days, the foundation is waterproofed and backfilled.

Despite the relatively high cost, strip foundations are one of the most durable types of load-bearing foundations. In addition, many owners of summer cottages prefer this type of foundation, as it allows them to equip a basement or even an entire basement.

The construction of a strip foundation can be attributed to the construction of a monolithic structure used directly for the construction of a residential building or commercial building.

You can complete all the work yourself, which can significantly save the family budget and direct it to subsequent work.

However, before starting, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil on the land plot, possible climatic and atmospheric changes, the type of future structure, as well as familiarize yourself with the regulatory documentation and obtain all the agreements and permits necessary to begin work.

Regulatory documentation

When making a strip foundation for a house, you need to know how they are classified. It is carried out according to the characteristics characteristic of SNiP standards No. 2.02.01-83, 3.02.01, 3-8-76 and SN 536-81. First of all, these are differences in the design itself:

prefabricated, consisting of reinforced concrete blocks;
monolithic, poured in a certain area in the formwork;
laying out the tape using brick or rubble stone.

In addition, before starting construction, it is recommended to familiarize yourself with the standards governing the use of land plots in compliance with the requirements described in SanPin 2.1.7.1287-03.

If we talk about private residential and commercial construction, the second method with self-filling is predominantly used.

What will it take?

FBS blocks will allow you to install the foundation very quickly

Before making a strip foundation correctly, it is necessary to determine the technology for its installation. In this case, you will need to select and purchase the required amount of building material. This includes the following:

Bricks and concrete for sealing holes and connecting joints.
Waterproofing.
Thermal insulation (if desired or necessary).

Concreting or sealing holes is necessary because it is almost impossible to lay a wall located below ground level without flaws.

In addition, you will need reinforcement, with its help you need to make a tape encircling perimeter and located in the supporting part of the structure.

Its main function will be to connect and link all the individual elements into one whole.

Reinforcement will allow you to distribute the loads from a house or building over its entire area.

The foundation is poured continuously

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to first prepare bulk material. In this case, sand, crushed stone or gravel are suitable.

You can use a sand-gravel mixture; it can perform several functions at once: it will serve as the main component for the production of concrete and is used to install a cushion under the base.

The latter is necessary to do the following:

level the pit for subsequent laying of slabs or pouring concrete;
act as a drainage layer;
prevent the harmful effects of soil heaving at negative ambient temperatures.

Depth

Place the base of the foundation below the freezing level of the soil

During self-construction, without experience in carrying out such work, many people wonder: how to properly pour a strip foundation?

If everything is more or less clear with the technology for performing the work, then with determining the depth of the trenches and laying the foundation, the issue is much more complicated.

The main determining factor of this value is the requirement that its sole be located at least 30 - 40 cm lower than the freezing level of the soil.

The height of the strip foundation of a house depends on the territorial location of the land plot, which is directly related to the climatic characteristics of each individual region. To make this task easier, see the table below, which is designed to help you independently determine the freezing depth, according to SNiP.

City	M	µM	Loam, sand, m	Fine sand, sandy loam, m	Coarse sand, gravel, m
Arkhangelsk	46.1	6.79	1.56	1.90	2.04
Vologda	38.5	6.20	1.43	1.74	1.86
Ekaterinburg	46.3	6.80	1.57	1.91	2.04
Kazan	38.9	6.24	1.43	1.75	1.87
Kursk	21.3	4.62	1.06	1.29	1.38
Moscow	22.9	4.79	1.10	1.34	1.44

The arrangement of a shallow-type strip foundation is located at a distance of 80–100 cm from the ground level. However, one should take into account the weak load-bearing capacity and almost zero resistance to frost heaving of the soil. Thus, before designing a house structure with your own hands, it is necessary to take into account the depth of the foundation.

Foundations for one-story buildings are usually calculated by eye

As for installing the tape under a one-story building, here in most cases calculations are performed in average values, so to speak, “by eye.”

In this case, the likelihood of overuse of materials and work is reduced to a minimum.

However, if it is possible to get professional advice, it is not recommended to refuse them. In the absence of an experienced person, the following factors can be taken into account:

We should not forget about the level of groundwater. According to the standards, it should be located no closer than 20 cm from the base.

Work order

You can dig a trench without using special equipment

The step-by-step instructions for installing a strip foundation with your own hands are quite simple.

After all the calculations have been completed, permits have been obtained, and the material has been purchased and delivered to the land plot, you can begin to carry out the work.

The advantage of this construction method is that all the work can be done by yourself without the involvement of special equipment and specialists. If the soil is loose, the trench is dug with shovels, and instead of reinforced concrete slabs, a monolith can be poured, reinforcing it with metal.

Marking

Start marking by driving pegs into the corners of the future building

Before you make a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to mark the area. To do this, you will need an architectural plan of the facility under construction indicating all the walls and partitions.

According to it, the location is marked at the selected location. To facilitate subsequent work, it is advisable to clear the area in advance of construction debris, branches and tree roots.

In addition, you can remove the top layer of fertile soil no more than 20 cm thick. It can be transferred to a garden plot or used for subsequent landscaping of the area around the building.

Marking is done by driving in wooden pegs placed in the corners. A construction thread is stretched between them, depicting the boundaries beyond which the base should not protrude. Having finished, it is recommended to once again carefully check the relationship between the intended site and the plan, the ratio of angles and straight lines.

If you plan to build a rectangular foundation, it would be useful to compare the length of its diagonals. If the values are equal, you can begin excavation work.

When planning to install a brick stove or a real fireplace, it is recommended to prepare a separate base. It should not be rigidly tied to the tape, however, if the structure is weak, over time the structure may tilt or one of its sides may burst.

Excavation

The walls of the trench must be smooth

Digging a trench in a strip foundation is carried out strictly along the intended trajectory. It is recommended to start from the lowest point of the land plot.

It is advisable to make the walls smooth and vertical; if the soil crumbles, it may be necessary to make additional wooden or metal shields.

This will avoid unnecessary work and reduce the consumption of building materials.

Periodically, the depth of the planned foundation cushion is measured and compared along the entire perimeter.

Preparing the trench

The thickness of the pillow should be at least 10 - 20 cm

To distribute the load from the entire mass of the structure and reduce the pressure created by the soil during heaving in the cold season, a sand and gravel cushion is poured at the bottom of the trenches.

Its thickness is made at least 10 - 20 cm, provided that it is well compacted. It is recommended to do it in 3 stages, wetting each row with water and compacting it well.

If you do not protect the cushion from washing out, there is a possibility that when the soil is filled with water in the spring, the sand will simply wash away, so roofing felt is laid on the bottom, which will not allow the cement slurry to mix with the sand when the strip foundation is poured.

Roofing material can not only be laid on the bottom, but also raised to the walls of the trench by 15 - 20 cm.

Before pouring the strip foundation, you need to take care of its maximum leveling in the horizontal plane. This will reduce the likelihood that the plinth will be laid out unevenly. Installation is carried out using various materials that are available:

plywood;
edged board;
plastic;
metal sheets.

Cells of the required height are assembled from individual elements and connected using jumpers into one whole. In some areas, holes are made necessary for ventilation of the future underground. Special pipes of the required length are inserted into them; the diameter is usually at least 10 cm. For more information about installing wooden formwork, see this video:

Concrete pouring is completed 3 - 4 cm short of the edge

Before pouring a strip foundation with your own hands, you need to take into account that this is not done to the top edge of the formwork, but 3–4 cm below it.

This will reduce the likelihood of concrete splashing during vibratory ramming.

To facilitate this procedure, you can use marks made on the inside of the boards around the entire perimeter or with stretched construction thread.

If it is necessary to build a strip foundation using thermal insulation, lumber for formwork can be replaced with extruded polystyrene foam, assembled together like a children's construction set.

Structural reinforcement

It is recommended to knit the reinforcement with wire

Building a house is quite a responsible undertaking, so it needs to be approached with the utmost care. This applies to both the acquisition of material and the order of work. All stages of construction must be completed; ignoring any of them can lead to the most disastrous consequences.

Reinforcing a strip foundation with your own hands is not that difficult, but there are numerous nuances that can significantly affect the overall result. First of all, this is the joining of rods in the corners and junctions of adjacent walls. In these areas, the metal is bent and laid along its entire length.

Secondly, the diameter of the longitudinal elements should not be less than 10, and the distribution ties and jumpers should not be less than 6 mm. For each frame you need to lay an average of 5 - 6 longitudinal rods.

At the joints, the distance between the jumpers becomes not 60 cm, as on straight sections, but 20. The connection of the rods is made with an overlap, overlapping each other by 50 - 60 cm.

Thirdly, the metal should not touch the formwork, since with the subsequent removal of the panels there will be direct interaction with the soil, which will result in the formation of pockets of corrosion and destruction of the reinforcement under the influence of moisture. For more information about reinforcement, watch this video:

The amount of reinforcing material can be determined based on the volume of concrete. The coefficient is 80 kg per 1 m3.

Fill

Have time to pour the foundation in 1 day

If all the previously described steps have been completed, the subsequent installation of the strip foundation will not cause any special problems.

Having determined the amount of the required volume (this is done by multiplying the future height by the length and width), a decision is made: use a purchased concrete mixture or make it yourself.

It should be taken into account that a factory-produced product is much higher quality than one made independently.

In this case, you also need to take into account the amount of cement and sand that will need to be mixed manually.

In the future, the following requirements must be met:

Filling is carried out in one day at short intervals of no more than 2 hours.
The walls in the strip foundation must be tapped.
Each poured layer is compacted and tapped using a crowbar.

When making your own mixture, you need to periodically move the mixer to different places. Filling from one point is not allowed.

Excerpt

The formwork is removed only after the foundation has reached half its strength.

You can prevent repairs to the foundation several years after it is poured by following the technology of drying and curing it. During this period, it is necessary to reduce the likelihood of mechanical or chemical exposure. In addition, concrete is very sensitive to elevated ambient temperatures and sudden changes.

It is not recommended to remove the formwork until the composition has reached more than half its strength; this may take several days. In addition, during the entire drying period it should be under a plastic film or tarpaulin, and periodically moistened with water from a garden watering can (during the hot season).

The time for complete hardening of the structure is from 1 to 1.5 months. This should be taken into account before building permanent walls on it. Failure to comply with the curing period can lead to premature failure.

Thus, the question of how to make a strip foundation with your own hands is completely covered. Based on the information presented above, doing the work yourself is not that difficult. To do this, first of all, you need to correctly make the calculations and perform all actions according to the instructions. Only in this case will the structure last for many years and will not be subject to destruction due to possible errors.