How to build a shed: choosing a location, materials and layout, installation stages, price comparison. We build a frame shed with a pitched roof ourselves. The simplest do-it-yourself shed

The barn is the first and most necessary thing to begin with in the development of a plot of land. At first it will be a shelter from the weather, a workshop and a sleeping quarters. And then he will take on his main responsibilities of storing gardening tools, crops and household supplies. Perhaps it will also accept domestic animals.

Building a shed with your own hands is not God knows what kind of science, that’s what this article is about. It is much more difficult to immediately position it correctly, taking into account the prospects for your own development and the layout of neighboring plots. The barn is a source of pollution. If initially there were no plans for mice in it, then where is the guarantee that chickens, or even a bull, will not appear there over time? In modern dense buildings, it is difficult to meet sanitary standards, especially considering the future. You may have to build a mobile shed in the fall (see below), and in the spring put it where you need it forever: it’s not so easy to guess right away so that it doesn’t turn out to be an eyesore later.

Take a look at fig. How much is there! An earthly paradise, and that’s all, not a manor. Now take the scale: standard 12 acres and a house of 120 square meters in plan, 80 residential. Having acquired land, they argued all winter about where to start, where to put things. The family's income is average; There was no way to settle down for our own without selling future agricultural products. It was assumed that within 3 years there would be only a barn on the building site, so it had to be built cheaply, but thoroughly. The garage was moved to the far corner and estimates for the road to it were made reluctantly, but there was no other way to fit a garbage dump with a cesspool into sanitary standards, and also ensure access for a garbage truck to the tank and a sanitation tank to the septic tank.

Since the construction was carried out for themselves, they decided to protect themselves from infection not only formally, but also in essence, for which purpose they planted a walnut over the utility yard with the barn. This tree exudes a lot of phytoncides, so nothing really grows under it or around it, but there are no flies and rats either; In addition, in summer it provides excellent shade. Near Lipetsk, the nut had to be nursed for a long time, but in the 8th year it still produced a harvest, by which time the arrangement was completed. Which is what they noted at the pond, taking a sip of what is supposed to be from the cellar; The cellar next to the recreation area came in very handy. And it all started with a barn...

What's first?

The family in question had not previously demonstrated any strategic abilities in themselves. Indeed, without being able to delve into the details, it is impossible to cover the problem globally and achieve success. A simple shed can provide invaluable experience here if you immediately perceive it as the beginning and fundamental basis of future well-being. In general, although the shed itself is not complicated, its construction must be taken with great responsibility. Especially in preparation for construction. Step-by-step preparation for the construction of a barn occurs as follows:

We get our bearings and talk to our neighbors. The goal is to find the best place for the shed: so that it is not very far away, but also does not stick out in front of your eyes and fits into sanitary standards for distances to water sources and other objects susceptible to contamination (residential buildings, plantings of agricultural crops, especially root crops);
Suddenly there is no clarity on point 1, we are building either a mobile shed or a temporary shed from cheap waste material. However, it is possible to build a shed at the dacha from slabs or used boards that is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to refine until it gives it a quite attractive appearance, see below;
If you have decided on a place for a barn right away, we choose the type of upper structure, taking into account the possibility of having pets;
We select the roof for the “box”;
Determine the type of foundation;
We are designing a shed based on the terrain. The latter is especially important, because supervisory authorities do not stand on ceremony with sources of pollution;
We reduce (compile) estimates for construction and decoration;
We may adjust the project if the barn does not fit into the budget;
We may also be considering the option of self-building with subsequent legalization. If the shed obviously complies with SanPiNs (Sanitary Rules and Norms), then it will be cheaper and easier than building it initially according to the project;
We buy materials and build.

What to do with the project?

A barn is a lightweight, pre-fabricated, unheated non-residential structure, from which important consequences that make things easier follow. We will talk about them for construction later, but for now you need to know that when registering/legitimizing the greatest quibbles and difficulties should be expected in relation to the location on the ground in accordance with SanPiNs. The actual design of the barn should include sheets with facades, a plan with sections, see track 2 in Fig. and a plan diagram of the foundation with a specification of materials for it, as in Fig. with plan sections.

As a rule, free shed projects from the RuNet are approved without anything and then no one ever thoroughly checks what is actually built there. It looks like a project, and ok. Deviations from the project in construction are acceptable, but in “small-scale construction” you can do without approval. But the layout plan for the site is studied very carefully, as are the plans of neighboring sites and their consent to construction. So make sure to collect these papers in advance, they are valid for 3 years.

Perhaps the corrosive bureaucrat will require another sheet with the frame structure, because... It’s not residential, it’s not residential, but people go there. In such a case, for a sample, see the drawings in Fig. By the way, this is not a bad shed for a 6-acre dacha. In extreme cases, you can sleep there, lying down diagonally.

Note: It is not necessary to list small fasteners (nails, screws, angles, staples) in the bill of materials for the drawings, because it is purchased as it is spent. It is also not necessary to indicate soft roofing materials costing up to 3,000 rubles. If, say, 2 rolls of roofing felt are spent on the roof, then it will cost up to 1000 rubles, so we also classify it as purchased as it is spent. Keep only sales receipts, in case they come to the rescue.

About temporary sheds

A good-quality wooden shed without a foundation weighs up to a ton; with a pitched roof and if you build it carefully, but not like a merchant, you can fit in half a ton. You can move it on rollers along the sleds, see picture, using a crowbar, you can move it together. To lift and place on the base using straps (ropes), 10-12 strong men are enough. Although, who knows, the subsequent treat for this crowd will cost more than renting a truck crane...

What is the point of this, besides the fact that you can build anywhere at first? Moreover, in this case the project is needed no more than for a doghouse, and for it it is not needed at all. If it stands for a year, then later, on the foundation, they will legitimize it, as long as it fits into the SanPiNs.

However, here the question arises for yourself: how to put it on the foundation? We should put them on anchors, but not dismantle the building in order to push them through the crown? There is a way, see below for details.

What to build from?

What building materials are best for a shed? Strong enough, durable, inexpensive and easy to work with? First of all – boards. A barn can be built from boards alone, see below. Unedged boards are cheap, and a structure made from them can look quite neat and even elegant in the spirit of rustic design, pos. 1 in Fig.

Note: even cheaper than the “uncut” croaker. It is also possible to build a shed from it alone, see the video below. True, it is more difficult to bring it to an exquisite “rusticism”. The most difficult part of the work is debarking the croaker, i.e. clearing it of bark; it requires a special hand tool, see the next video.

Video: slab barn

Video: cleaning the slab from bark

Frame shed, pos. 2 in Fig. above, the most common, because The technology of small frame construction is well mastered by private developers. However, to assemble a frame from timber, as for other at least temporarily inhabited buildings (these, by the way, include country toilets with showers), pos. And in Fig. on the right, not necessarily. More precisely, based on strength requirements, it is mandatory for mobile sheds. And if the structure is placed immediately in its place, then the frame can be assembled from only boards, poses. B. This will make the construction much cheaper if unedged and used boards are used.

Sometimes a country shed is sheathed with OSB for the sake of aesthetics, pos. 3, or plywood. These materials are susceptible to delamination in the open air, so before painting, a shed with OSB lining must be properly primed, and a plywood shed must be treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion.

Capital barns, especially livestock ones, are most often built from foam blocks, pos. 4. Their lower strength compared to bricks does not play a role in this case, but a shed made of foam blocks is cheaper, easier to work with, warmer in winter and cooler in summer. If you choose one, keep in mind:

A shed made of foam blocks can be built on a columnar foundation with a wooden crown, like, for example, a bathhouse.
No more than 3 lower rows are laid on cement-sand mortar, and above that you need to switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete. The structure is light, and the upper cement joints, which are weakly loaded vertically, can break under lateral wind pressure.
Having laid the walls to a third of their height, work is interrupted until the masonry mortar hardens, so that the masonry does not float at the seams. The same break is made for 2/3 of the masonry.

Kits of parts for quick-assembled plastic sheds, pos. 5. However, the prices, to put it mildly, are puzzling, firstly. Secondly, for some reason, living creatures in such sheds do not take root. Perhaps for the same reasons, whatever they may be, why people do not live in plastic houses.

Choosing a roof

What kind of roof to cover the barn: two- or one-pitched? The first has an exclusively aesthetic advantage. There is always a miasma in the barn. Let's be honest, work clothes are not washed every day. And not even every week. But sweet apples and boiled potatoes emit ethylene, which is far from harmless and safe in high concentrations. There is no need to talk about pig chickens.

A pitched roof will provide effective ventilation without any additional measures, on the left in Fig. Suddenly the wind blows into your forehead, the visor becomes an air intake and squeezes unnecessary fumes into the cracks. And under the gable roof they will swirl for quite a long time before leaving through the drag window on the right there. In addition, a pitched roof is much simpler and cheaper. Therefore, it is highly advisable to build a lean-to barn. The exception is if there is a hayloft in his attic.

Base

A temporary shed without a foundation is placed on a crushed stone cushion 25-40 cm thick. It is poured flush with the soil surface, removing the humus. However, a durable shed still needs a foundation that is reliable enough for this type of structure, inexpensive and not very labor-intensive.

Sheds are rarely built on slab foundations: for a conventional foundation they are too labor-intensive and expensive, and in a cowshed or pigsty it is difficult to arrange stalls and a manure pit on a slab. Large livestock barns made of brick are built on a strip or columnar-strip foundation, but for small private farms this is probably unnecessary.

The optimal foundation for a barn is columnar, see fig. Technology of its laying (this is the name of the process of building a foundation); We will analyze here, make this work easier and simpler for the shed. The step-by-step arrangement of a columnar foundation for a barn looks like this:

For concrete, we purchase sand and gravel mixture (SGM) from road workers (not builders), it is much cheaper than construction sand and gravel separately. Concrete on the PGS is not suitable for a residential building, but it will be suitable for a barn;
We also purchase M400 cement at the rate of 1 bag per 9 bags of ASG. The concrete will be M150, enough for a shed;
On the site we make cast-offs from 1 (yes, exactly one) cord on pegs;
We check it as usual, by comparing the diagonals and measuring the sides;
Using the hydraulic hose level, we find the highest angle and set the distance of the cord from the ground surface to 10 cm;
Using the same level, set the cast-off horizontally;
In the lowest corner we drill a hole with a 200-mm hand drill to the calculated depth plus 15-25 cm for a sand-crushed stone cushion;
We make a mark on the drill rod;
We drill the remaining holes until the mark on the drill matches the cord;
We fill the wells with equal layers of sand and crushed stone, compacting each layer. ASG cannot be used here, because the solution being poured should penetrate slightly into the crushed stone;
We roll up pile sleeves with a diameter of 150 mm from 2 layers of roofing felt. We fasten them with 2 mm soft wire. To prevent the sleeves from bursting when pouring, you need 3-4 strapping belts per 1 m of their length;
We put the sleeves in the wells. Place the stones vertically;
We cut the sleeves, using metal scissors or large tailor's scissors, flush with the cord;
We prepare reinforcement cages: 3 (10-12) mm corrugated rods per post, tied with the same 2 mm wire. The vertical pitch of the bundle is 200-250 mm. The distance from the inner edge of the sleeves and their top is usual, 30-50 mm;
We place the frames in sleeves and position them so that they do not touch the walls;
Mix the concrete using an ASG until it becomes creamy thick;
Fill the pillars layer by layer, in layers of 15-20 cm, with a break of 10-25 minutes. between layers. This is called a hydraulic seal fill. In practice, the layers are poured in order, starting from the same column;
Before pouring the last (penultimate) layer, we place anchors in the pillars;
On the 3rd day we backfill the soil with a tamper. Be careful not to knock the posts off the vertical!
On the 7th day (the concrete has gained 50% strength), construction can continue. On the 20th day, at a temperature of 15-25 degrees, the concrete will gain 75% strength and the structure on it is considered suitable for use.

Topside

So now we're building a barn. For example, such as in Fig. It will also fit in a 6-acre dacha without any problems, but it’s a little larger: you can sleep well in it, and there is a compartment for tools. In the future, perhaps for a woodshed or poultry house.

For novice builders, as a rule, the difficulty is not in reading drawings and diagrams, but in how to put their hands to all this? Unaccustomed to carpentry, not roughened by calluses and not provided with special tools? We will dwell on this in more detail.

Frame connections

The barn, as stated above, is non-residential and in general, from the point of view of SNiP (Building Rules and Norms), is barely a structure. Therefore, it is possible, without fearing anything either in essence or on paper, to use thin-walled metal connectors for wooden parts. Regarding residential buildings, SNiPs are merciless: their metal parts must be at least 4 mm thick. This is dictated by fire resistance requirements: in the event of a fire, the building must resist the fire until it collapses for at least a time sufficient to evacuate people. It's easier with a barn.

Mitrel, claw and tenon connections (items 1 and 2 in the figure), which require special tools and sufficient carpentry skills, do not need to be used. If you still have to, you can reinforce it with hardware not with a square or an envelope, but with a pair of nails/screws diagonally (in the inset there) or lengthwise if the part is narrow.

Connections on stamped corners (crossed out in red) without inserting wooden parts are not entirely reliable on joists and ceiling beams, because They are not adapted to shear loads, and the corners themselves are quite expensive. Perforated plates, pos. 3. They can be bent in any way you like, including: and pockets holding vertical stresses. How do you like the ceiling in Fig. on right? No cutting and cutting of tenons and grooves with painstaking calculations and inevitable mistakes for a beginner, but keep an elephant in the attic.

Perforated plates for embedded anchors are especially good, also at pos. 3. Remember the question: how to place a finished shed on a foundation? Now it's clear how.

Nail plates, pos. 4 allow you to save even more on fasteners, but, firstly, they can only be used flat. Secondly, fastening them requires skill so that the nail bends do not wrinkle. The nail plate must either be gradually hammered evenly over the area, or, conversely, immediately driven in with one powerful and precise blow of a sledgehammer.

Note: for permanently loaded shear joints, e.g. floor joists, it is still better to use special thin-walled joist pockets or pockets for joists, pos. 5.

About the casing

In terms of all technical parameters, the best cladding for a barn is plank. Technologically, it is also not complicated if it is sheathed in a cut pattern (“herringbone”, see figure). And it is very cheap if the board used for the cladding is unedged, and what such sheds come out of in skillful hands can be seen in some figs. in the article.

Only boards

Many timber merchants sell boards cheaper than timber, because... More of them come out of one forest. In addition, if you have a circular saw, it will not be difficult to separate cheap unedged ones into measured ones. Therefore, a shed made entirely of boards is a very pressing issue.

How to solve it is shown in Fig. below. Plank beams can even be assembled from scraps, pos. a) and b). The intermediate posts are made box-shaped (pos. c) for internal partitions, and T-bars (pos. d) frame window and door openings.

Is it just boards?

Sheds made of corrugated sheets are most often sold ready-made on a metal frame, pos. 1 in Fig. In general, this is not the best option: such a barn is stuffy in summer and cold in winter. But perhaps, for economic reasons, you will settle on this design. Then you need to take into account that a thin profiled sheet in a building structure will not serve as a working cladding and the wooden frame of a shed made of corrugated sheets needs to be reinforced.

Actually, strengthening the frame will not cost extra money and labor; it is enough to install braces across the entire wall of 40 mm boards, not flat, relative to the lower crown, but edgewise, pos. 2. In this case, there will be a door and a window in the front wall. If there is only a door, then its opening is made in the middle and the jibs are placed on both sides of it.

The struts are not cut into the racks, they are simply nailed. Horizontal slats as thick as the board are placed under the sheathing; When crossing with the braces, breaks are made in the sheathing. The sheathing is attached to both the sheathing and the braces.

Note: It is highly advisable to adjust the dimensions of the shed and the selected corrugated sheeting so that the depressions of the waves of the vertical sheathing fall on the corners. Then they are attached directly to the corner posts, which will give some additional strength to the structure.

The same type of frames can be sheathed with small unmeasured boards: container board (item 3), scraps. You can make a very cute shed out of just about anything in different ways. For example, lighten old boards as described below, sand them, stain them with stain and stuff them in an artistic mess, pos. 4. Or paint the boards separately, creating geometric patterns, or dream up something else.

Very “bad” boards

Old boards are dark and unsightly. The frame of a shed can be whipped up literally from garbage, pos. 1 in Fig. The result will be a painfully familiar bawdy shack, pos. 2. However, if you inherited one from your great-grandfather, but is still quite dilapidated and crooked, it is not so difficult to bring it to a form similar to that in pos. 3:

Take out the window, remove the door.
Support the corners from the outside with struts made of poles, aligning the pillars. If it doesn’t go any further, it’s not necessary, why ruin something that is strong?
Inspect carefully and secure with self-tapping screws. We don’t touch the old nails, let them rust until the end.
Remove the roof and roof sheathing.
Treat the entire structure with wood brightener (regenerator).
After 2-5 days, treat with another biocidal impregnation, drying oil or, in extreme cases, treatment.
Varnish with acrylic varnish if desired. There is no need to paint, the “rusticity” will go away, and the “crookedness” will disappear in all forms.
Install a new window, hang a door, lay a roof.

About lightening wood

Wood restorers are made from bleach. Therefore, if lumber is processed individually, you need to work in the air or in a well-ventilated area. There is no need to apply the composition with a spray, as is often written in the instructions (they seem to be compiled by marketers, not forestry engineers), everything around will be splashed with a caustic liquid. Treat with a brush; best of all - plaster plaster; it absorbs a lot of solution and releases it evenly.

We reached the roof

The advantages of a pitched roof for a shed have already been discussed. If you are more satisfied with a gable roof, then its rafters will be quite sufficient with one suspension without crossbars, pos. B in Fig. The material everywhere is 100x50 timber or 100x40 board. The Mauerlat is not needed; the rafter trusses are attached to the beams of the upper frame on the corners or bent perforated plates. All parts of the truss are connected in the same way.

It is not worth cutting the tops of the legs into each other, as usual (pos. A), nor is it worth fastening the ridge corner of the legs with a steel plate: the first is too difficult, the second is weak. The roof ridge is formed, firstly, on the ground with gussets (pos. B1) from scraps of boards from 20 mm thick. The scarves are placed on both sides, secured with 12 screws, 3 for each half of the scarf. And the final strength of the rafter structure is obtained after installing a ridge girder made of 2 boards, pos. AT 2; it is nailed or screwed to the legs, 2 attachment points per leg.

About sheds for livestock

Sheds for productive domestic animals require a separate description, and one for each species. A cowshed with a pigsty and a chicken coop are combined only geographically on the same farm yard. From the point of view, so to speak, of general barn construction, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, that animal droppings are chemically aggressive, release a lot of ammonia (especially poultry and pork), and its consistency and drying speed are significantly different. In any case, manure must be removed as it arrives and stored, because Any kind of it except pork is a valuable fertilizer.

The first thing that follows from this is that the barn for livestock must be well ventilated, located in accordance with SanPiN and legalized. Further, a heavy pig or a young bull, scratching itself on a corner, will create considerable loads in the structure. A dairy cow weighing half a ton is not yet a giant among its kind, and it comes from 4 hooves, the supporting area of which is much less than 1 square meter. m. That is, about human according to SNiPs 250 kg/sq. We need to forget and take into account the real load.

Finally, goats are known to be not averse to eating pieces of wood. For the barn to be completely eaten up, this has not been observed. But the bactericidal and water-repellent impregnations required for wooden buildings will not benefit them until they die.

So, a chicken barn can be structurally ordinary, but with good ventilation and chemical resistance; for pigs - also wooden, but on a reinforced timber frame, for example, as in rice; For goats, a wooden shed is undesirable, but for cows, in addition, it must be warm, because... a freezing cow gets sick easily and will not give a good milk yield; in general, it is preferable to build a barn for livestock from foam blocks on a strip foundation. A sheepfold may be simpler, but sheep breeding in small private farms is not developed in the world, because... It is only profitable on a large enough scale.

About woodburners

Good natural ventilation is also necessary in a woodshed: the calorific value of wet wood fuel drops sharply, causing heating costs to rise, and a boiler using wet wood will fail faster. For ease of use, woodsheds are most often made as an extension to the house, pos. 1 in the figure, or on the veranda, pos. 2. If this is unacceptable for aesthetic reasons, then a firewood shed is built in accordance with the mode of use and/or climatic conditions.

For a seasonal dacha, inhabited from spring to autumn, with low and irregular fuel consumption, you need a woodshed with wide roof overhangs (from rain) and a solid floor raised above the ground by at least 0.4 m, so that the firewood does not draw in moist fumes from land. It is also highly advisable to remove the humus underneath and cover the soil with waterproofing, pos. 3.

In places with harsh continental winters, preference should be given to ventilation, pos. 4. Ice, as is known, sublimates (turns into steam without melting) even in the Siberian frost, only slowly. But in areas with mild and even more so “rotten” winters of the Mediterranean type, firewood needs to be properly protected from precipitation, pos. 4, turning the woodshed with its rear towards the prevailing winds.

How to save on foundation

Look again at Fig. with a columnar foundation. Doesn't it seem like there are a lot of pillars? Yes, the load-bearing capacity of such a foundation under a barn is excessive, even if it is made of M75 concrete. But there seems to be nowhere to go: if you place the pillars less often than every 1.5-1.7 m, then the lower crown will not receive proper support. And the foundation, as anyone understands, is the most expensive and difficult part of the barn. So, it is quite possible to erect a 3 by 3 m barn on 5 pillars instead of 9, without losing at all in strength.

Let us take into account again that a barn is a non-residential, utility building and non-standard technical solutions are permissible in it. And, remembering what we learned at the university, let’s first turn the flooring from a panel into a membrane. This ingenuity can be easily implemented by hand: we lay the floor from tongue-and-groove boards from 100x40 to 150x40. It is more expensive than edged timber, but the savings on poles will be many times greater than the overexpenditure on timber.

Then let us remember that a triangular membrane is much stiffer than a square membrane of the same area. As a result, we will get the lower crown, as on the left in Fig. There is no need to tinker with trigonometry when calculating oblique grooves: they are marked in place by placing a board on the frame. The floor is laid without joists, directly along the crown beams, from edge to edge. Two 3x3 modules can be brought together for a 6 by 3 m barn, but there is no need to sculpt a large structure from such modules: the calculation is valid if the cells have no more than 1 common beam. There are additional conditions:

Frames are only timber frames 100x100 mm; prefabricated ones made from boards are not suitable.
The vertical frames of the module are supported with struts made of 100x40 boards flat on steel fasteners without any insertion, except for the one where the door will be.
For a 6x3 shed, additional vertical posts from the same board are needed in increments of 1.5 m (not shown in the figure).
The flooring of the 6x3 frame is made of boards 6 m long lengthwise, so that the floor boards are solid.
It is highly advisable to place corner posts (the same timber 100x100) on the so-called. quarter tenon, reinforced with corners, see fig. on the right is higher, and the large intermediate 6x3 frames are half the tree, as marked in the diagram.

In addition

The optimal room for storing household equipment and many other necessary things is a country shed. In addition, this utility room is often used as a home workshop. But, despite the simplicity of the design, you will have to make a lot of effort - choosing the right material and construction technology so that the result satisfies your wishes is not easy. If you don’t have the experience or time, then instead of a high-quality outbuilding you’ll end up with a hut on chicken legs. But nevertheless, the pressing question remains: what is cheaper to build a shed from, and is it worth saving?

However, fans of non-standard solutions may also like chicken legs

Types of modern sheds depending on their purpose

Before you order the construction of a shed, you need to decide what it is needed for. Depending on the purpose of use, utility units can be divided into the following categories:

Building for storing gardening equipment. Most often, it is designed as one small room with an area of 6–12 square meters. m.

Multifunctional barn, which includes storage for things, a gazebo, and a cellar.

Poultry house, pigsty, rabbitry.

Mini poultry house from the designer: such a chicken coop will not spoil the overall appearance of the site, but, most importantly, the laying hens will be comfortable here

A cellar barn consisting of 2 parts: one for household supplies, the second for things.

A utility unit for household items, for example, garden and home furniture, a collapsible swimming pool, etc.

The utility room is a gazebo, which can be glazed. In summer it is used as a living-dining room, in cold weather - as a closet.

Barn with terrace. Often such a project, with common sense, turns into a bathhouse with a guest room.

Summer kitchen-dining room with pantry. Here you can place or attach a barbecue.

The gazebo-dining room is a great place to relax with family or friends

To ensure that the building does not create disharmony and fits into the landscape, you should not neglect the design. It’s both pleasing to the eye and not embarrassing in front of guests, and most importantly, it’s comfortable. Most often, minimalist, country, and high-tech styles are chosen for utility units.

Choosing the optimal location for the shed

The concept of “optimal place” is quite subjective, since each owner or hostess has his own opinion on this matter. However, when choosing a site for the construction of a utility block, it is worth considering the following points:

it is necessary to provide convenient access to the contents (for example, so as not to carry a walk-behind tractor or lawn mower across the entire area);

it is advisable to place it in a place that is less suitable for growing garden crops;

think about where it will be possible to place a swimming pool, sauna, veranda and other buildings if they are next to the barn.

Do not neglect the rules for locating buildings in the private sector - a dissatisfied neighbor may sue, then the barn will have to be demolished

Materials for construction

It doesn’t matter whether you are planning to build a small shed in the country or a spacious outbuilding, the choice of material and technology primarily depends on the purpose of use. From the list below you can understand what to build a shed from inexpensively:

Foam blocks

Bricks

OSB boards

A simple and inexpensive option for a summer house - a wooden shed

Wooden frame

Metal carcass

Container utility unit

For frame-type construction, corrugated sheeting, polycarbonate and even straw can be used as walls.

The cost of building a thatched barn is minimal. But in terms of thermal characteristics it surpasses even brick utility blocks

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer small-scale construction services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Choosing the optimal barn layout according to the drawings

Prefabricated barn made of timber. The laconic geometry and neat appearance will allow the building to fit well into the surrounding environment. The compact frame is suitable for storing tools and garden equipment.

Standard option - rectangular building

To better retain heat, you can arrange a vestibule

A shed made of timber is often used for showers and toilets, as well as for other purposes. First of all, because this design, compared to a gable roof, is cheaper and easier to build. The advantage of a pitched roof is effective ventilation.

The rafters for building a pitched roof will require 2 times less than for a gable roof

Economical bathroom option for a summer cottage

A garage made of foam blocks for a small car (motorcycle, moped), with a small utility room. A reliable structure will protect well not only from precipitation, but also from temperature changes, humidity and uninvited guests. A simple shed made of foam blocks for storing equipment and as a workshop is also possible.

Despite the lightness of foam blocks, such a structure requires a foundation

Simple functional design

A simple functional project that allows you to store tools, equipment, workpieces and other supplies, as well as maintain a small poultry house.

Another universal option: for walls you can use timber, brick, foam blocks

Spacious barn 6x3 m without partitions. Thanks to the simplicity of the project and easy-to-install material (fibreboard), the building can be erected in 1-2 days.

Spacious building of simple design

Sheathing installation

This design is easy to expand

Comparison of prices for various construction options, taking into account their quality

The cheapest segment of utility rooms, where prices vary from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles, is represented by frame buildings of a small area. So, economy class usually assumes a bare box measuring 1x1 m (2x1.5 or 2x2 m). Lining is used as cladding; the roof is covered with ondulin or roofing felt.

Frame sheds costing from 30,000 to 70,000 are in the middle price category. They differ from inexpensive buildings in size (for example, 3 × 3 or 6 × 2 m) and cladding material.

The price of expensive frame-type utility rooms can reach 160,000 rubles. For example, a barn measuring 5x4 m costs on average about 85,000–95,000 rubles, 4x7 m – 133,000 rubles, with partitions – 155,000 rubles.

To the cost of the box, prices for components such as roof overhangs, insulation, steps, etc. will be added separately, as well as payment for the work.

For example, the price for a utility block 3x4 m based on a metal frame in the basic configuration, including frame, walls, roof with waterproofing, door, is 113,000 rubles. The cost with installation is about 156,000 rubles. Here we must add the cost of the window with installation - 16,700 rubles, insulation - 16,500 rubles, interior finishing with corrugated sheets - 32,400 rubles, drainage - 7,800 rubles.

Such a building can serve as both a utility room and a house for children.

Container blocks cost between 40,000 and 65,000 rubles, depending on the size and configuration. Typical dimensions: 2.4 × 2.4 × 2.4 m, as well as 2.4 × 2.4 × 4.0 m and 2.4 × 2.4 × 5.8 m. Basic equipment includes hardboard interior trim, floors Chipboard, thermal insulation and wooden windows.

Prices for buildings made of foam blocks start from approximately 100,000 rubles (4 × 2 m), 150,000 (3 × 4 m), 340,000 (6 × 4 m).

Video description

About the choice of materials and design of the shed, watch the video:

Construction stages

Frames are considered one of the most popular utility rooms. Their construction takes a minimum of time and is carried out according to the standard scheme:

Base assembly

After the earth has been compacted so that the soil shrinks as much as possible, a sand and crushed stone cushion is prepared, and the perimeter of the building is marked.

Concrete blocks are installed at the corners and in the middle of the long sides.

A wooden frame or metal frame is assembled on the blocks.

Floor logs are assembled, a heat-insulating layer and a floor covering, for example, linoleum, are laid.

Shed frame with pitched roof

Walling

Support pillars are placed at the corners, and racks are placed around the perimeter.

Door and window frames are installed.

External and internal cladding is being carried out.

Construction of a pitched roof

The frame racks are connected to the frame frame.

A waterproofing layer is laid, then the sheathing is attached.

The sheathing is covered with roofing felt or soft roofing.

They install corrugated sheets, or, as an option, metal tiles.

After all installation work is completed, they move on to the interior decoration of the room.

Gable frame on a columnar foundation

As a result, about the economic feasibility of building a turnkey barn

If you have no experience in construction work or simply don’t have enough time to build a shed, then a turnkey service is what you need. When signing the contract, your only task will be to choose a suitable design, and the rest will be done by the construction company’s specialists. This means that you don’t have to worry about where to get tools, how and when to purchase building materials, look for workers and make sure they do their job correctly.

Construction company specialists will prepare a standard or custom project and build a country shed. In addition, they will be able to carry out complete interior finishing and equip with shelves and racks. As a result, within a few days you get a good-quality building with a conveniently organized space.

Video description

For examples of beautiful outbuilding projects, watch the video:

Conclusion

Having figured out how much it costs to build a shed, you can come to the conclusion that the costs of high-quality construction for a suburban area can hardly be called cheap, but if the work is done professionally, the investment will more than pay off. A convenient utility room will serve not only the owner himself, but also his grandchildren.

It just so happens that the barn is associated exclusively with the habitat of livestock - from cows and horses to chickens and turkeys. In such a room there must be a place for animals to rest, a feeding and activity area. The building must be warm, environmentally friendly and safe, so that the living creatures inside are comfortable and calm. To create a shed, a wooden plank is best suited. The building is placed on the ground without a foundation. In this case it is not necessary.

Advantages and disadvantages of plank construction without a foundation

Experienced farmers advise creating sheds from wooden planks and installing them directly on the ground, without building a foundation. The advantages of such structures are as follows:

saving time - they can be erected quickly (in just a few days);
saving money - without a foundation, the structure will cost 2 times less;
saving effort - it is obvious that erecting a structure without a foundation requires less effort on the part of the builder.

In addition, the barn itself turns out to be quite light and stable.

To build a shed without a foundation, choose wooden boards - they are quite light, but durable

However, such buildings also have disadvantages:

the need for mandatory additional insulation of the floor so that the animals inside do not freeze;
the need for external and internal waterproofing of walls and floors so that water from the soil does not destroy wooden boards;
fragility of the structure (a barn will last about 20 years, whereas with a foundation it will last about 50);
the need for careful preparation of the area where the shed will be installed.

If such problems do not scare you, then you can safely start building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation.

Wooden boards are a durable and reliable material and are relatively inexpensive. That is why they do not lose their popularity and relevance, despite the abundance of modern innovative materials.

A wooden shed without a foundation will last a maximum of 20 years, then it will begin to quickly collapse

In what cases is it rational to use

When a barn is built to last, it must be installed on a foundation. If there is no need for long-term operation of the building or the structure is to be moved from one place to another, then the foundation is not poured.

There is no need for a foundation if you live in warm regions where there are no harsh winters and little rainfall throughout the year.

Residents of warm regions with low average annual precipitation can afford to build a shed without a foundation.

Cheapness is another important feature of a shed without a foundation. If funds are limited, you can build a structure without a foundation and install it directly on the ground.

Preparation for construction

Before you begin the process of constructing a shed from wooden planks, you need to decide on the design of the room, prepare all the necessary tools and materials, choose insulation and waterproofing.

A barn made of wooden planks without a foundation can only be one-story. Otherwise, the earth will not stand it and will begin to sag, the structure will gradually sink into the soil, the walls and floor will begin to collapse. This is dangerous for animals and humans.

A barn without a foundation can only be one-story: the more floors, the heavier the structure; it will quickly sink into the ground

The height of the building walls should not exceed three meters, and the total area should not be more than 20 m2. Otherwise, the structure will turn out to be very large, the earth simply will not support such weight.

In any case, the barn made of wooden boards will be frame. This means that initially they build a “skeleton” - a base, then it is lined with boards, insulation, waterproofing and finishing.

Drawings of plank sheds

To build a shed, you need a drawing. It is better to choose the simplest design. It will be easier to build such a structure alone.

By strictly following the drawing, a barn can be built in a couple of days alone

The barn can be made square or rectangular depending on the personal preferences of the owner. But an elongated structure that is too narrow is inconvenient to use; the animals inside will be too cramped.

Using a simple drawing you can create a comfortable and cozy barn for livestock

Selection of material and calculation of boards

The main material for building a shed without a foundation is wooden boards. Oak, spruce and pine trees are suitable for agricultural purposes. It is worth choosing such tree species because they:

smell nice;
do not absorb unpleasant odors;
are durable;
resistant to mold formation.

To build a frame base, choose oak wooden blocks with a square or rectangular cross-section (100×100 or 60×100 millimeters).

For construction, choose only bars with a cross-section of 100X100 mm or 60X100 mm, others will not work

To create a frame, place 4 identical bars at the corners of the future structure. The length of each “stick” is 3 meters 20 centimeters (provided that the height of the barn is 3 meters, 20 centimeters will be buried in the ground to ensure the stability of the entire structure).
Vertical bars are connected to each other by horizontal ones. And not only on the walls, but also on the floor and ceiling. The distance between parallel bars is 50 centimeters.
The frame is sheathed with wooden boards on the outside and inside (entirely, including the floor and ceiling). The planks should fit snugly against each other without forming gaps.

Based on such features, calculations are made. To erect a building with an area of 20 square meters with three-meter walls, you will need the following number of boards and bars:

210 meters of timber (70 timber, 3 meters each);
188 square meters of wooden plank.

An example of calculating the required number of wooden boards

To calculate how much material will be required for the construction of a building, you need to know the exact dimensions of the future room. If the structure is three meters high, 5 meters long, and 4 meters wide, then counting the number of boards is easy. You need to find out the total area of all surfaces of the building (including the floor and ceiling). To do this, first multiply the length of the building by the height (5 * 3). We get the area of one wall, the same area of the parallel wall. The area of the other two walls is equal to the product of the height and the width of the barn, multiplied by two (4 * 3 * 2). The floor and ceiling have equal area. We calculate them by multiplying the length by the width (5 * 4). Now we sum up all the received numbers (5*3*2+4*3*2+5*4*2). We carry out the cladding outside and inside. This means that we multiply the resulting value (94) by 2.

What is best for insulation?

The shed definitely needs to be insulated. Otherwise, the animals will not be able to stay inside in the winter. It will be damp and cold for them to sleep on the floor. In such conditions, livestock will quickly become ill and begin to die.

Suitable materials for insulation include:

wool (mineral, stone, glass);
ecowool;
polyurethane foam.

Cotton wool is the cheapest insulation material, but it quickly absorbs moisture and sags. It is recommended to use it in conditions of austerity. Glass wool can be hazardous to livestock. If it gets on the skin or mucous membranes of an animal or bird, it can be fatal. It is better to choose mineral or stone.

Ecowool is more expensive than ordinary mineral or stone wool, but is considered an environmentally friendly and moisture-resistant material. Reliably retains heat indoors.

Polyurethane foam is a rather expensive insulation material. But they haven’t come up with anything better yet. It is resistant to moisture and does not sag even after long-term use. Reliably retains heat in the building.

To insulate a shed, it is better to choose polyurethane foam. It does not absorb moisture and does not deform during use

Polyurethane foam for insulation is placed in one layer, while cotton wool is placed in two or more. The choice in this case is obvious.

Video: how to choose insulation for a wooden shed

Waterproofing walls, floors and ceilings

When building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation, special attention is paid to waterproofing. It must be carried out on all surfaces of the structure - from floor to ceiling, so that moisture does not enter inside and interfere with the comfortable stay of livestock in the barn.

Waterproofing can be:

coating;
pasting;
painting;
sprayed.

Betonite mats, membranes and injections are also used as water insulation.

Coating waterproofing is bitumen - a substance with a pungent odor. It is not effective, but it is cheap. Shed wrap insulation works best. It is a rolled material that itself is attached to the surface. Paint insulation is similar to paint; sprayed insulation (in powder form) requires special equipment. The injection layer requires a lot of money. Mats or membranes are expensive and increase the thickness of the walls. But they reliably protect the structure from moisture. If there are no financial limitations, it is better to choose mats or membranes. Their service life reaches 70 years.

It is necessary to waterproof the barn, otherwise the room will be damp and the animals will get sick often

Required Tools

The required drawing has already been selected, the materials have been calculated. The preparation of instruments begins. To build a wooden shed without a foundation you will need:

saw;
drill;
plane;
screwdriver;
self-tapping screws;
nails;
hammer;
construction corner;
building level;
pencils;
wires for carrying lighting into the room;
marker for marking;
construction stapler.

Additional materials and items needed to create a full-fledged shed:

wooden door and hinges for its installation;
a small window (in a plastic or wooden frame) so that sunlight penetrates into the room during the day, and the owner saves on electricity;
OSB panels for creating partitions;
lampshade and light bulb;
switch;
socket;
cement mortar to fill vertical bars buried in the ground;
sand, crushed stone;
corrugated roofing;
polyurethane foam.

Step-by-step instructions for making a shed

You can build a shed not only from wooden planks. Wooden pallets and scraps are also suitable for this purpose. The main thing is to prepare them for construction work: remove all nails, level them, and process them with a plane.

Instructions for building a shed without a foundation:

They are clearing the area for the future barn. All debris and dirt are removed from the site, holes are dug, hills and mounds are leveled.
Preparation for construction begins with cleaning and marking the area
They mark the area and determine how the barn will be located.
4 vertical bars are buried in the corners of the future building. Each of them should be deepened into the ground by 20 centimeters (no less).
The bars at the corners are buried in the ground and filled with cement for strength.
To ensure that the bars stand firmly in place, they are filled with cement mortar and left to dry for at least 24 hours.
The area is covered with crushed stone to compact the soil.
Sand is poured onto the site and leveled.
The ground under the shed is compacted with crushed stone and sand so that the shed stands firmly in its place
The construction of the frame begins: horizontal bars are nailed to the vertical bars. They start from the floor and end at the ceiling. The distance between parallel horizontal connections is 50 centimeters. Exactly the same “grid” is made on the floor and ceiling. Vertical beams with horizontal ones are fastened with nails or self-tapping screws.
Don't forget to leave room for the door and window
On one of the short walls there is space for a door.
On any wall there is a place for a window in order to subsequently install a frame with glass there.
The interior cladding begins with boards, scraps or pallets. They are secured to the frame with nails. There should not be too large gaps between adjacent elements. At this stage, you need to cover all surfaces with boards except the floor.
When covering, it is necessary to avoid gaps between the boards
When the interior decoration is completed, they go over the walls with a plane to remove snags and splinters that are dangerous for livestock.
A planer will help make the wood cladding smooth and even and remove all snags.
Now the insulation is being laid. If you choose polyurethane foam, which is sold in the form of squares with sides of 50 centimeters, then it is attached to the wood with mounting adhesive. Choose one that suits the interaction with the tree. Information about this must be indicated on the product packaging. Cover all surfaces except the floor.
To insulate with mineral wool, you will have to make plank sheathing with the distance between the boards 1–2 mm less than the width of the slabs, so that the slabs fit as tightly as possible
The insulation is covered with waterproofing. If mats or membranes are used, they are attached to the insulation with mounting adhesive. The protective layer is removed from the self-adhesive waterproofing and a sticky coating is applied to the insulation. This is how the walls and ceiling are covered. The waterproofing can also be secured with a stapler.
Now we begin to install the floor. To do this, a layer of waterproofing is laid on wooden boards. Insulation is attached to it (preferably in 2 layers, even if it is polyurethane foam, so that it is as comfortable as possible inside). The insulation on top is again waterproofed and covered with wooden boards. An additional layer of waterproofing is necessary to prevent animal waste products from leaking into the insulation.
First they put waterproofing on the floor, then insulation, then again waterproofing and only in the end - wooden boards
Windows and doors are installed. Work is carried out in accordance with the attached installation instructions.
Waterproofing must be installed under the outer skin
The final stage is laying corrugated sheeting on the roof. They do this with an overlap so that water does not flow under the material. You can lay an additional layer of waterproofing coating under the corrugated sheeting. It won't be redundant.
Corrugated sheeting is the best material for protecting a barn roof from bad weather - it lasts a long time and is inexpensive
Wires are pulled from the wiring on the street. They are fixed to the walls and ceiling to provide lighting. Inside, a switch and socket are installed on one of the walls. It will be possible to turn on the heating device in the outlet in winter if it becomes very cold in the barn.
Partitions are made from OSB boards and installed in the required places. The slabs are cut with a saw and attached to the walls and floor with nails.

Video: building a barn from wooden planks without a foundation with your own hands

Building a shed from wooden planks without a foundation is quite simple. The main thing is to strictly follow the instructions and take a responsible approach to each stage of the work. Proper insulation is the key to ensuring that the animals inside will be cozy and comfortable, and the owner will not have to worry about them.

At first glance, it seems that building a shed is simple. Choose a picture you like on the Internet or drawings of a utility unit you like - and build it for your health. Moreover, you can make a barn from timber, using frame technology, or even a stone one - from brick or aerated concrete. But behind the apparent ease lies the main pitfall. The barn in the picture is not yours, but “that guy’s.” Will it be right for you, will it be convenient to use this outbuilding, will everything that is planned fit into it? You will learn the answers to these questions, and more, from our article. Namely:

What is a shed for?
How to determine the optimal size of an outbuilding.
How to turn a barn into a multi-functional building.
What are utility blocks built from and on what foundation?

Where does the construction of a barn begin?

Often, a barn is the first building that is erected on a site, at the start of building a house or even before that. To hide tools, building materials, to take shelter from bad weather or to spend the night - in everything, the “shed” becomes an indispensable and universal assistant.

After the site has been inhabited, the tools and equipment necessary for caring for the garden and vegetable garden are stored in the outbuilding.

They drag in snow removal equipment, lawn mowers, and building materials that were left after the construction of the cottage. And often - everything that is a pity to throw away or is planned to be left “for later”, because a zealous owner makes everything work.

It is not surprising that over time the barn turns into a “junk pile”, filled with a mass of necessary and unnecessary things. If it is easier for the owner to go to the market and buy the wrench or hardware needed on the farm than to find them in the utility room, then something needs to be done about it. And you need to start in advance, even before the construction of the shed begins, by properly designing it and calculating the optimal dimensions.

MAX001 FORUMHOUSE Member

I have a brick house of 200 square meters. m and an ordinary change house measuring 6x3 meters. One day I realized that the change house, which had been in use for 3 years, had outlived its usefulness. I sold it and wondered what to do with the tool and other things pulled out of it. I decided to build a barn. At this stage, I made a fatal mistake - I consulted with my wife about the dimensions of the outbuilding. As a result of lengthy negotiations, during which my wife did not see the point in building something big, we came to a common denominator - a small utility block, approximately 2.5x3 meters + high ceilings.

We will immediately show what happened to the user.

The problem is that all the beautiful “pictures” of the correct placement of things in the shed were shattered by the reefs of harsh reality a year later. The racks and shelves were filled with various “junk”, and there was practically no free space left.

When asked what to do about it, the user found the only correct answer - to attach another one to the barn... a barn. According to MAX001, headaches can be avoided if you immediately erect an outbuilding of normal size. And so I had to buy another iron door, build walls, and so on down the list.

But now everything fits in the barn.

Although there is an opinion that the larger the shed, the more clutter it can become, there are minimum dimensions below which you should not build. Otherwise, you’ll have to throw everything up to the ceiling, filling the shed like a shopping bag. There will never be order in the utility room. The starting point for calculating the dimensions of the utility unit is the physical dimensions of the things that you are going to store there.

Ironka Member of FORUMHOUSE

My mother built a shed at the dacha measuring only 9 square meters. m. As a result: now you can only stand in the middle. Moreover, nothing large, in the form of any special equipment, is stored there. Just a bicycle, greenhouse films, hoes, axes, saws, nails and various small things. I think that building a shed less than 15-18 square meters. m not worth it. This way there will still be room left in reserve.

MAX001

My shed is about 12 square meters. m. is saved by the fact that the ceilings are high, you can put up shelving. I even use the space between the rafters - I filled the bars and store folding country furniture there, and in the summer - skis.

In addition, the user increased the functionality of the shed by mounting a shed for the firewood on the outside wall (stone), where it is now possible to store about 2 cubes of logs.

Cosolapyj FORUMHOUSE Member

I decided to build a barnhouse style because... the number of tools and various equipment exceeded all reasonable limits. It is not possible to store everything compactly, so the shed will have the appropriate dimensions - 8x18 meters, at USHP.

When constructing outbuildings, the user recommends adhering to the principle “do a little more at once than you can afford, and you won’t have to redo it for longer.”

Let's add that in the barn Cosolapyj plans to equip a workshop, make a water supply for car washing, and also (eventually) install an ATV and a garden grader.

We'll also show you the barn plans.

From left to right: a storage room and a place for a grader, in the middle is a workshop, on the left is a shed.

How to calculate the optimal dimensions of a shed and turn it into a universal utility unit

As can be seen from what is written above, by the word “shed” each developer means his own building. In one case, you need a small outbuilding for storing garden tools and various small items, and in another, the barn grows to the size of a house. But there is one nuance that unites them. This is ease of use.

The shed must be practical, which means it must be made for specific needs.

Therefore, instead of taking the dimensions of the shed from the Internet or from a neighbor, it is better to decide for yourself what you need the shed for and what you plan to store in it.

There can be many options for such planning. For example, at the initial stage of construction in the barn it is necessary to place tools, some building materials, and equip sleeping places.

In the future, the barn can be transformed from just a “storage room” on the site - into a workshop, as well as a place for storing firewood or pellets.

Or it can turn into a “garage” for storing various equipment - a motor cultivator, lawn mower, vibratory rammer, snow blower, etc.

Any summer resident has a basic set of tools and agricultural equipment, which he cannot do without on his plot. It is from this list that you need to start when calculating the minimum dimensions of the shed.

For example, to store a simple set of garden tools - shovels, rakes, axes, hoes, small spades, saws, brooms - you can allocate 2 square meters. m.

If you plan to actively garden and store fertilizers and greenhouse materials in the shed, increase the area to 3-4 square meters. m.

If you have electric tools: a gas trimmer, a high-pressure washer, garden pumps, hoses, sets of ordinary tools, you need even more space - 5 or more square meters.

Practice shows that the averaged and The optimal size for an outbuilding can be taken as dimensions of 3x6 meters with a height of 2.5 m.

In this case, it will be possible to place long building materials in the shed - boards and fittings. Set up a small workspace for a home handyman, install racks for storing hardware and various household items.

When building a barn, do not forget about arranging a small terrace with a canopy, where you can work outside in bad weather or just relax while sitting at your desk in the evening.

An important stage is zoning the barn. To do this, we divide the building into a number of rooms - blocks, each of which stores its own. For example, “dirty” things - a garden wheelbarrow, shovels, rakes, spades, watering hoses, etc. It is better not to drag what is needed for working with the soil into the outbuilding, but to place it on the side in a small compartment with separate doors.

This way, these tools will always be at hand and you won’t have to sweep/wipe the floor in the barn every time, cleaning out sand, black soil, fertilizers or clay.

We allocate space for a work table, shelves with carpentry and plumbing tools and places to store bolts, nuts, nails, screws, etc.

Rule: we place what is required first and most often closer to the entrance. Anything that is rarely used or used seasonally can be placed in the back of the shed against the far wall.

If you plan to store long materials in the barn, then, for ease of pulling them in, you should make the door not in the middle of the building, but on the side - on the right or left, or at the end. If you are not “greedy” at the height of the barn, then the attic can also become the optimal place to store leftover fittings, boards, plywood, and pipes.

Those. everything that is not needed often, but can be easily obtained if necessary. In addition, even before construction we think about whether the barn will be insulated. In our climatic conditions, this will allow working in outbuildings in late autumn and winter.

Household block: design options and construction features

Experienced developers know well that it is better to learn from the mistakes of others, so as not to make mistakes in their construction. To do this, it is best to study the experience of portal users who have already built sheds and cabins. Therefore, in this part of the article we have collected illustrative examples of practical utility units.

What materials can you build a shed from? The experience of our users shows: from any. It all depends on the budget and the intended design. Everything is used, they build from wooden budget outbuildings standing on, to permanent buildings made of brick or aerated concrete. In any case, you should start by developing a plan, and ideally a project. An illustrative example is a portal participant with the nickname AlexanderFJTI.

AlexanderFJTI User FORUMHOUSE

It all started when I conceived the idea of building a utility complex - combining a barn, a terrace and a bathhouse under one roof. Construction began with a model. I bought slats at the store and, together with my son, built a model of a multi-shed in the winter.

Note that the barn was built using one of the most common technologies used for the construction of such objects - frame. Screw piles were used as the foundation.

AlexanderFJTI

A team of three people screwed 21 piles by hand. They worked very quickly. The piles were cut to the water level, the shaft was filled with cement-sand mortar, and the cap was welded on top and everything was painted. Next I started building the frame. And this is what happened in the end.

To save on the services of a construction team, it is better to build the barn yourself and use the experience gained when building a house.

A different approach was taken Goshapiter.

Goshapiter FORUMHOUSE Member

There was a barn on my property that my grandfather built back in 2001. The building served faithfully all these years, but it became “cramped” for all the equipment stored there. In addition, it was worn out, so I decided to build a new one from permanent polystyrene foam formwork. Dimensions from the inside - 4800x3600 mm. The roof is flexible tiles.

As a foundation, the user erected a “ribbon”, within the perimeter of which, from the inside, a slab was poured.

In this option, the slab is also the finished subfloor of the barn. In addition, the problem of possible rotting of the wooden floor disappears. You can also, without fear of a “trampoline,” place heavy shelving, a table with tools, machines and vices in the barn.

The inside of the utility block was finished with OSB boards, which were secured on guides from the drywall fastening. Siding was used on the outside.

Goshapiter

Everything fit in the barn - bicycles, gardening equipment, tiles left over from the construction of the house. Construction took 1.5 months. It would have turned out faster if not for “wet” concrete work.

Another example of an unusual barn - a utility block Dmitr173, made from homemade tongue-and-groove boards.

Dmitr173 FORUMHOUSE Member

I, like any owner of a country plot, thought about building a barn. It should accommodate: a small workshop; my wife needs a corner for storing gardening supplies. Besides this, I would like to build something original - for the soul.

Having drawn up the technical specifications and gone through several options, the user decided to build a shed from tongue-and-groove boards. The foundation is a proven and relatively inexpensive MZLF (shallow strip foundation).

To maximize the use of natural light, the roof of the barn has a transparent polycarbonate insert.

Next to a private house or cottage there is always a free plot of land where you can build a small but extremely useful structure - a barn. Its purpose is very diverse, from storing equipment and solid fuel for the stove, to keeping animals. Wood is most often used to build a shed. And this is completely justified: it is affordable, durable and easy to use. You can build the structure yourself, following simple step-by-step instructions.

The first questions that will need to be resolved before starting construction: where and what to build the barn from? The area of plots is often limited, so you need to use the land to the maximum. As an option, you can build a shed against one of the walls of the house or fence. If there is enough space, then you can choose absolutely any place, the main thing is that the building is convenient to use.

You can build a wooden shed from different materials:

The first two types of wood will provide a high-quality, durable and warm construction, but the construction process requires large financial and physical costs. The remaining types are suitable for lightweight structures that will be used as storage space; they will certainly cost less, and even one person can build such a shed.

Advantages of a wooden shed:

Possibility to build “warm” and “cold” versions of the structure;
Fast construction time;
Availability and wide range of materials for construction;
Ecological purity of wood;
Possibility of using any decorative finish and lightweight types of foundation.

Don't forget about the appearance of the barn. It should be harmoniously combined with other buildings on the site. Exterior unity can be achieved through modern finishing materials, such as siding or corrugated sheeting.
In order not to make a mistake when calculating the amount of materials, it is necessary to prepare in advance a plan with the exact dimensions of the shed and make markings on a plot of land.

You also need to stock up on fasteners, tools and materials for arranging the foundation and decorative finishing, if required.

Construction of a shed from timber or logs

If the outbuilding must last for many years, then it is best to choose timber or logs as the basis for the walls, because the service life of buildings made from them can reach 70 years. These materials will provide high-quality thermal insulation in case of keeping livestock or poultry indoors. The building is also suitable for storing equipment. To build a large barn, additional labor will be required.

It is better not to use a shed made of timber or logs for storing firewood, since it does not have sufficient ventilation to dry the heating oil.

Foundation preparation

If there is no time to prepare the foundation, you can replace it with pillars dug to a depth of 60-80 cm.

The principle of laying the foundation is similar to that described above.

Strapping and erection of frame

It is more convenient to start construction by arranging a site that will serve as a floor and foundation for the construction of walls. The lower trim should be made of 150x150 mm timber, treated with an antiseptic. The foundation must first be covered with roofing felt to protect the structure from moisture.

The strapping bars can be joined end-to-end and secured with metal corners, or in half a tree. In the second case, the joints must be secured with nails or studs.

The floor joists are attached to the frame with special brackets or corners. To do this, 50-60 mm boards are placed on edge and fixed with self-tapping screws onto the beams in increments of no more than 60 cm. The location of the joists must be aligned along the upper edge of the trim so that when laying the floor the surface is level.

The next stage is installation of the floor. It can be fixed with self-tapping screws or nails. It is important to ensure that there are no gaps, and that the outer contours of the floorboard or OSB coincide with the bottom trim.

Then the racks are mounted at the corners of the base and secured with the top trim. To make your work easier when building a pitched roof, the racks can be immediately adjusted to size, two of them should be 50-80 cm higher. For a gable roof, all racks must be made the same. Next, additional supports are installed along the perimeter of the walls every 50 cm and openings are formed for windows and doors.

Roof construction

It is advisable to erect a shed roof for a barn - it is quick and economical. Moreover, the attic in such small buildings is rarely used.

If the top frame is at an angle, then the rafters from the boards can be laid directly on it, turning them on the edge. The distance between them should be no more than 50 cm so that the roof can withstand a large snow load.

Plank sheathing is laid on the rafter system. The pitch depends on the roofing material. Under roofing felt, the sheathing must be continuous; under ondulin, boards can be laid at a distance of no more than 40 cm; under corrugated sheeting, a step of 60 cm is acceptable.

Wall cladding and installation of doors and windows

You can cover the walls with OSB or boards (edged and unedged). The slabs and edged boards are laid end-to-end and secured with self-tapping screws or nails. Unedged lumber is mounted with an overlap so that there are no gaps between the boards.

It is better to use ready-made windows, since their manufacture requires the skills of a carpenter. The door can also be custom made from wood, metal or plastic, or cut from OSB board and reinforced with bars.

All stages of the construction of a frame shed can be clearly studied in the presented video.

Finishing

OSB or board does not always look attractive. In addition, if the boards are waterproof, then the lumber needs protection from moisture, sunlight and insects. Therefore, decorative cladding of a frame barn is an almost mandatory condition for durability and aesthetic appearance.

You can also arrange a cellar under the barn, which you can make yourself.

The building can be sheathed with different types of materials. When choosing them, you should focus on the exterior of adjacent buildings. For example, siding can perfectly imitate brick, logs and other materials; if corrugated sheets are used in the decoration of the house, then the barn should be sheathed with the same, choosing the appropriate shade.

House or country outbuildings are most often built from wood and its derivatives. These materials provide variability in construction and the quality of the finished shed. If all the work is done correctly, the building will last a very long time, retain its attractive appearance and will not lose its functionality. Therefore, it is so important to follow all stages of construction from laying the foundation to decorative finishing.