How to build a barn at your dacha yourself. Do-it-yourself shed - diagrams, drawings, projects and options for how to build simply, quickly and efficiently (155 photo ideas)

D This includes not only relaxation and picnics, but also work that requires a variety of tools. Obviously, the tool should be stored in its designated place, and a small shed is a good place for this. Let's consider how to make a shed in the country And what you need to do.

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Video version of the article

Let's start with the plan (project of a barn at the dacha)

In the construction business, special design teams are involved in the development of projects, but it is hardly worth hiring a company to develop a project as simple as a garden shed. It is quite possible to do it on your own - find drawings on the Internet, or develop your own project by reading how to make a barn with your own hands in our article.

The most suitable structural solution for small utility buildings is a frame building, covered with boards or sheet materials.

To place a couple of shovels, a rake, a hoe, a wheelbarrow, a watering hose, etc., it’s enough to do barn 2.5*1.5 meters in plan, with a lean-to.

Two meters in height is enough, plus 20 cm of rise to form a slope. The roof is an asbestos-cement corrugated sheet, commonly known as “slate” (more about its installation), pitch: 2500/3 ≈ 830 mm. The sheathing is plank “in a running pattern”, with gaps approximately equal to the width of the sheathing board.

Installing a window for a structure that is essentially a box for garden tools is hardly advisable. During the day, the light falling from the open door is enough, and for ease of use in the dark, we will provide an electric one. You can also make a window for beauty, no one will stop you.

The best choice of foundation would be those located under each of the four corners of the building. For piles, thin ones treated with creosote or another antiseptic are sufficient. A more expensive alternative is rolled steel, screw or bored piles.

As an option, monolithic ones are also possible, with a depth of about half a meter. They are suitable for small thicknesses of the fertile layer and shallow dense soils.

The depth of the foundation is usually taken based on considerations so that it penetrates the loose layer of black soil. If the thickness of such a layer is significant, it is enough to immerse the pile into chernozem by 60-70 cm.

Heating of the barn is not provided, so there is no need to talk about any thermal insulation of the walls. The electrical part of our shed will be a wall lamp and. You can also place sockets (necessarily waterproof) on the shed for easy connection of power tools, such as a lawn mower.

Scheme, drawing of a barn at the dacha

Based on the characteristics described above, we draw a drawing or sketch of the future building, indicating the main dimensions.

Since a garden shed is a fairly simple structure, it is enough to depict it from three sides (views):

Front view, from the entrance - architects call this image the “main facade”;
side view, or “side elevation”;
finally, a top view - a plan of the building.

The building plan is depicted in such a way as if the barn is supposed to be built without a roof. The plan indicates the location of the frame posts, trim and cladding parts.

All drawings are provided with dimension lines and dimension values in millimeters (as is customary in construction drawings) with an accuracy of 10 mm. This means that the last digit of each size will be “0” (Fig. 1).

Materials for building a barn at the dacha

M We are looking at how to make a shed for gardening equipment and tools. It is not suitable for storing plumbing and construction tools, much less power-driven tools.

Carpentry or how to build a shed

When the floors are ready, they move on to carpentry work: a grillage is made from timber on laid piles, which will serve as the lower belt of the barn. Then the racks are placed vertically along a plumb line, securing them first with temporary and then with permanent braces, similar to how it was described in the article about the device.

The cheapest, but fairly reliable treatment is painting with lime compounds. In addition to being an antiseptic, lime also somewhat increases the fire resistance of wood. The disadvantage of this color is its low durability, which requires updating it at least once every two years.

Additional information regarding small auxiliary structures can be found in the article about.

Frame barn on a foundation made of permanent formwork

Afterword

In conclusion, we can say that when planning how to make a shed for garden tools, it is better to place it on the edge of the living area of the dacha, so that the tools are located as close as possible to the place of their most frequent use.

The optimal room for storing household equipment and many other necessary things is a country shed. In addition, this utility room is often used as a home workshop. But, despite the simplicity of the design, you will have to make a lot of effort - choosing the right material and construction technology so that the result satisfies your wishes is not easy. If you don’t have the experience or time, then instead of a high-quality outbuilding you’ll end up with a hut on chicken legs. But nevertheless, the pressing question remains: what is cheaper to build a shed from, and is it worth saving?

However, fans of non-standard solutions may also like chicken legs Source ursa-tm.ru

Types of modern sheds depending on their purpose

Before you order the construction of a shed, you need to decide what it is needed for. Depending on the purpose of use, utility units can be divided into the following categories:

Building for storing gardening equipment. Most often, it is designed as one small room with an area of 6–12 square meters. m.

Multifunctional barn, which includes storage for things, a gazebo, and a cellar.

Poultry house, pigsty, rabbitry.

Mini poultry house from the designer: such a chicken coop will not spoil the overall appearance of the site, but, most importantly, the laying hens will be comfortable here Source nashimirukami.ru

A cellar barn consisting of 2 parts: one for household supplies, the second for things.

A utility unit for household items, for example, garden and home furniture, a collapsible swimming pool, etc.

The utility room is a gazebo, which can be glazed. In summer it is used as a living-dining room, in cold weather - as a closet.

Barn with terrace. Often such a project, with common sense, turns into a bathhouse with a guest room.

Summer kitchen-dining room with pantry. Here you can place or attach a barbecue.

The gazebo-dining room is a great place to relax with family or friends Source pinterest.com

To ensure that the building does not create disharmony and fits into the landscape, you should not neglect the design. It’s both pleasing to the eye and not embarrassing in front of guests, and most importantly, it’s comfortable. Most often, minimalist, country, and high-tech styles are chosen for utility units.

Choosing the optimal location for the shed

The concept of “optimal place” is quite subjective, since each owner or hostess has his own opinion on this matter. However, when choosing a site for the construction of a utility block, it is worth considering the following points:

it is necessary to provide convenient access to the contents (for example, so as not to carry a walk-behind tractor or lawn mower across the entire area);

it is advisable to place it in a place that is less suitable for growing garden crops;

think about where it will be possible to place a swimming pool, sauna, veranda and other buildings if they are next to the barn.

Do not neglect the rules for locating buildings in the private sector - a dissatisfied neighbor may sue, then the barn will have to be demolished Source slide-share.ru

Materials for construction

It doesn’t matter whether you are planning to build a small shed in the country or a spacious outbuilding, the choice of material and technology primarily depends on the purpose of use. From the list below you can understand what to build a shed from inexpensively:

Foam blocks

Bricks

OSB boards

A simple and inexpensive option for a summer house is a wooden shed Source bankfs.ru

Wooden frame

Metal carcass

Container utility unit

For frame-type construction, corrugated sheeting, polycarbonate and even straw can be used as walls.

The cost of building a thatched barn is minimal. But in terms of thermal characteristics it surpasses even brick utility blocks Source notperfect.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that offer small-scale construction services. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Choosing the optimal barn layout according to the drawings

Prefabricated barn made of timber. The laconic geometry and neat appearance will allow the building to fit well into the surrounding environment. The compact frame is suitable for storing tools and garden equipment.

Standard option - rectangular building Source domicomfort.ru

To better retain heat, you can arrange a vestibule Source bankfs.ru

A shed made of timber is often used for showers and toilets, as well as for other purposes. First of all, because this design, compared to a gable roof, is cheaper and easier to build. The advantage of a pitched roof is effective ventilation.

The rafters for building a pitched roof will require 2 times less than for a gable roof Source yurlkink.ru

Economical bathroom option for a summer cottage Source domicomfort.ru

A garage made of foam blocks for a small car (motorcycle, moped), with a small utility room. A reliable structure will protect well not only from precipitation, but also from temperature changes, humidity and uninvited guests. A simple shed made of foam blocks for storing equipment and as a workshop is also possible.

Despite the lightness of foam blocks, such a structure requires a foundation Source: plotnikov-pub.ru

Simple functional project Source bankfs.ru

A simple functional project that allows you to store tools, equipment, workpieces and other supplies, as well as maintain a small poultry house.

Another universal option: for walls you can use timber, brick, foam blocks Source nemasterok.ru

Spacious barn 6x3 m without partitions. Thanks to the simplicity of the project and easy-to-install material (fibreboard), the building can be erected in 1-2 days.

Spacious building of simple design Source pinterest.ru

Sheathing installation Source idn37.ru

This design is easy to expand Source pinterest.com

Comparison of prices for various construction options, taking into account their quality

The cheapest segment of utility rooms, where prices vary from 11,000 to 30,000 rubles, is represented by frame buildings of a small area. So, economy class usually assumes a bare box measuring 1x1 m (2x1.5 or 2x2 m). Lining is used as cladding; the roof is covered with ondulin or roofing felt.

Frame sheds costing from 30,000 to 70,000 are in the middle price category. They differ from inexpensive buildings in size (for example, 3 × 3 or 6 × 2 m) and cladding material.

The price of expensive frame-type utility rooms can reach 160,000 rubles. For example, a barn measuring 5x4 m costs on average about 85,000–95,000 rubles, 4x7 m – 133,000 rubles, with partitions – 155,000 rubles.

To the cost of the box, prices for components such as roof overhangs, insulation, steps, etc. will be added separately, as well as payment for the work.

For example, the price for a utility block 3x4 m based on a metal frame in the basic configuration, including frame, walls, roof with waterproofing, door, is 113,000 rubles. The cost with installation is about 156,000 rubles. Here we must add the cost of the window with installation - 16,700 rubles, insulation - 16,500 rubles, interior finishing with corrugated sheets - 32,400 rubles, drainage - 7,800 rubles.

Such a building can serve as both a utility room and a house for children Source houzz.de

Container blocks cost between 40,000 and 65,000 rubles, depending on the size and configuration. Typical dimensions: 2.4 × 2.4 × 2.4 m, as well as 2.4 × 2.4 × 4.0 m and 2.4 × 2.4 × 5.8 m. Basic equipment includes hardboard interior trim, floors Chipboard, thermal insulation and wooden windows.

Prices for buildings made of foam blocks start from approximately 100,000 rubles (4 × 2 m), 150,000 (3 × 4 m), 340,000 (6 × 4 m).

Video description

About the choice of materials and design of the shed, watch the video:

Construction stages

Frames are considered one of the most popular utility rooms. Their construction takes a minimum of time and is carried out according to the standard scheme:

Base assembly

After the earth has been compacted so that the soil shrinks as much as possible, a sand and crushed stone cushion is prepared, and the perimeter of the building is marked.

Concrete blocks are installed at the corners and in the middle of the long sides.

A wooden frame or metal frame is assembled on the blocks.

Floor logs are assembled, a heat-insulating layer and a floor covering, for example, linoleum, are laid.

Frame of a shed with a pitched roof Source bankfs.ru

Walling

Support pillars are placed at the corners, and racks are placed around the perimeter.

Door and window frames are installed.

External and internal cladding is being carried out.

Construction of a pitched roof

The frame racks are connected to the frame frame.

A waterproofing layer is laid, then the sheathing is attached.

The sheathing is covered with roofing felt or soft roofing.

They install corrugated sheets, or, as an option, metal tiles.

After all installation work is completed, they move on to the interior decoration of the room.

Gable frame on a columnar foundation Source sami-stroim.ru

As a result, about the economic feasibility of building a turnkey barn

If you have no experience in construction work or simply don’t have enough time to build a shed, then a turnkey service is what you need. When signing the contract, your only task will be to choose a suitable design, and the rest will be done by the construction company’s specialists. This means that you don’t have to worry about where to get tools, how and when to purchase building materials, look for workers and make sure they do their job correctly.

Construction company specialists will prepare a standard or custom project and build a country shed. In addition, they will be able to carry out complete interior finishing and equip with shelves and racks. As a result, within a few days you get a good-quality building with a conveniently organized space.

Video description

For examples of beautiful outbuilding projects, watch the video:

Conclusion

Having figured out how much it costs to build a shed, you can come to the conclusion that the costs of high-quality construction for a suburban area can hardly be called cheap, but if the work is done professionally, the investment will more than pay off. A convenient utility room will serve not only the owner himself, but also his grandchildren.

The barn is the first and most necessary thing to begin with in the development of a plot of land. At first it will be a shelter from the weather, a workshop and a sleeping quarters. And then he will take on his main responsibilities of storing gardening tools, crops and household supplies. Perhaps it will also accept domestic animals.

Building a shed with your own hands is not God knows what kind of science, that’s what this article is about. It is much more difficult to immediately position it correctly, taking into account the prospects for your own development and the layout of neighboring plots. The barn is a source of pollution. If initially there were no plans for mice in it, then where is the guarantee that chickens, or even a bull, will not appear there over time? In modern dense buildings, it is difficult to meet sanitary standards, especially considering the future. You may have to build a mobile shed in the fall (see below), and in the spring put it where you need it forever: it’s not so easy to guess right away so that it doesn’t turn out to be an eyesore later.

Take a look at fig. How much is there! An earthly paradise, and that’s all, not a manor. Now take the scale: standard 12 acres and a house of 120 square meters in plan, 80 residential. Having acquired land, they argued all winter about where to start, where to put things. The family's income is average; There was no way to settle down for our own without selling future agricultural products. It was assumed that within 3 years there would be only a barn on the building site, so it had to be built cheaply, but thoroughly. The garage was moved to the far corner and estimates for the road to it were made reluctantly, but there was no other way to fit a garbage dump with a cesspool into sanitary standards, and also ensure access for a garbage truck to the tank and a sanitation tank to the septic tank.

Since the construction was carried out for themselves, they decided to protect themselves from infection not only formally, but also in essence, for which purpose they planted a walnut over the utility yard with the barn. This tree exudes a lot of phytoncides, so nothing really grows under it or around it, but there are no flies and rats either; In addition, in summer it provides excellent shade. Near Lipetsk, the nut had to be nursed for a long time, but in the 8th year it still produced a harvest, by which time the arrangement was completed. Which is what they noted at the pond, taking a sip of what is supposed to be from the cellar; The cellar next to the recreation area came in very handy. And it all started with a barn...

What's first?

The family in question had not previously demonstrated any strategic abilities in themselves. Indeed, without being able to delve into the details, it is impossible to cover the problem globally and achieve success. A simple shed can provide invaluable experience here if you immediately perceive it as the beginning and fundamental basis of future well-being. In general, although the shed itself is not complicated, its construction must be taken with great responsibility. Especially in preparation for construction. Step-by-step preparation for the construction of a barn occurs as follows:

We get our bearings and talk to our neighbors. The goal is to find the best place for the shed: so that it is not very far away, but also does not stick out in front of your eyes and fits into sanitary standards for distances to water sources and other objects susceptible to contamination (residential buildings, plantings of agricultural crops, especially root crops);
Suddenly there is no clarity on point 1, we are building either a mobile shed or a temporary shed from cheap waste material. However, it is possible to build a shed at the dacha from slabs or used boards that is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to refine until it gives it a quite attractive appearance, see below;
If you have decided on a place for a barn right away, we choose the type of upper structure, taking into account the possibility of having pets;
We select the roof for the “box”;
Determine the type of foundation;
We are designing a shed based on the terrain. The latter is especially important, because supervisory authorities do not stand on ceremony with sources of pollution;
We reduce (compile) estimates for construction and decoration;
We may adjust the project if the barn does not fit into the budget;
We may also be considering the option of self-building with subsequent legalization. If the shed obviously complies with SanPiNs (Sanitary Rules and Norms), then it will be cheaper and easier than building it initially according to the project;
We buy materials and build.

What to do with the project?

A barn is a lightweight, pre-fabricated, unheated non-residential structure, from which important consequences that make things easier follow. We will talk about them for construction later, but for now you need to know that when registering/legitimizing the greatest quibbles and difficulties should be expected in relation to the location on the ground in accordance with SanPiNs. The actual design of the barn should include sheets with facades, a plan with sections, see track 2 in Fig. and a plan diagram of the foundation with a specification of materials for it, as in Fig. with plan sections.

As a rule, free shed projects from the RuNet are approved without anything and then no one ever thoroughly checks what is actually built there. It looks like a project, and ok. Deviations from the project in construction are acceptable, but in “small-scale construction” you can do without approval. But the layout plan for the site is studied very carefully, as are the plans of neighboring sites and their consent to construction. So make sure to collect these papers in advance, they are valid for 3 years.

Perhaps the corrosive bureaucrat will require another sheet with the frame structure, because... It’s not residential, it’s not residential, but people go there. In such a case, for a sample, see the drawings in Fig. By the way, this is not a bad shed for a 6-acre dacha. In extreme cases, you can sleep there, lying down diagonally.

Note: It is not necessary to list small fasteners (nails, screws, angles, staples) in the bill of materials for the drawings, because it is purchased as it is spent. It is also not necessary to indicate soft roofing materials costing up to 3,000 rubles. If, say, 2 rolls of roofing felt are spent on the roof, then it will cost up to 1000 rubles, so we also classify it as purchased as it is spent. Keep only sales receipts, in case they come to the rescue.

About temporary sheds

A good-quality wooden shed without a foundation weighs up to a ton; with a pitched roof and if you build it carefully, but not like a merchant, you can fit in half a ton. You can move it on rollers along the sleds, see picture, using a crowbar, you can move it together. To lift and place on the base using straps (ropes), 10-12 strong men are enough. Although, who knows, the subsequent treat for this crowd will cost more than renting a truck crane...

What is the point of this, besides the fact that you can build anywhere at first? Moreover, in this case the project is needed no more than for a doghouse, and for it it is not needed at all. If it stands for a year, then later, on the foundation, they will legitimize it, as long as it fits into the SanPiNs.

However, here the question arises for yourself: how to put it on the foundation? We should put them on anchors, but not dismantle the building in order to push them through the crown? There is a way, see below for details.

What to build from?

What building materials are best for a shed? Strong enough, durable, inexpensive and easy to work with? First of all – boards. A barn can be built from boards alone, see below. Unedged boards are cheap, and a structure made from them can look quite neat and even elegant in the spirit of rustic design, pos. 1 in Fig.

Note: even cheaper than the “uncut” croaker. It is also possible to build a shed from it alone, see the video below. True, it is more difficult to bring it to an exquisite “rusticism”. The most difficult part of the work is debarking the croaker, i.e. clearing it of bark; it requires a special hand tool, see the next video.

Video: slab barn

Video: cleaning the slab from bark

Frame shed, pos. 2 in Fig. above, the most common, because The technology of small frame construction is well mastered by private developers. However, to assemble a frame from timber, as for other at least temporarily inhabited buildings (these, by the way, include country toilets with showers), pos. And in Fig. on the right, not necessarily. More precisely, based on strength requirements, it is mandatory for mobile sheds. And if the structure is placed immediately in its place, then the frame can be assembled from only boards, poses. B. This will make the construction much cheaper if unedged and used boards are used.

Sometimes a country shed is sheathed with OSB for the sake of aesthetics, pos. 3, or plywood. These materials are susceptible to delamination in the open air, so before painting, a shed with OSB lining must be properly primed, and a plywood shed must be treated twice with a water-polymer emulsion.

Capital barns, especially livestock ones, are most often built from foam blocks, pos. 4. Their lower strength compared to bricks does not play a role in this case, but a shed made of foam blocks is cheaper, easier to work with, warmer in winter and cooler in summer. If you choose one, keep in mind:

A shed made of foam blocks can be built on a columnar foundation with a wooden crown, like, for example, a bathhouse.
No more than 3 lower rows are laid on cement-sand mortar, and above that you need to switch to a special adhesive for aerated concrete. The structure is light, and the upper cement joints, which are weakly loaded vertically, can break under lateral wind pressure.
Having laid the walls to a third of their height, work is interrupted until the masonry mortar hardens, so that the masonry does not float at the seams. The same break is made for 2/3 of the masonry.

Kits of parts for quick-assembled plastic sheds, pos. 5. However, the prices, to put it mildly, are puzzling, firstly. Secondly, for some reason, living creatures in such sheds do not take root. Perhaps for the same reasons, whatever they may be, why people do not live in plastic houses.

Choosing a roof

What kind of roof to cover the barn: two- or one-pitched? The first has an exclusively aesthetic advantage. There is always a miasma in the barn. Let's be honest, work clothes are not washed every day. And not even every week. But sweet apples and boiled potatoes emit ethylene, which is far from harmless and safe in high concentrations. There is no need to talk about pig chickens.

A pitched roof will provide effective ventilation without any additional measures, on the left in Fig. Suddenly the wind blows into your forehead, the visor becomes an air intake and squeezes unnecessary fumes into the cracks. And under the gable roof they will swirl for quite a long time before leaving through the drag window on the right there. In addition, a pitched roof is much simpler and cheaper. Therefore, it is highly advisable to build a lean-to barn. The exception is if there is a hayloft in his attic.

Base

A temporary shed without a foundation is placed on a crushed stone cushion 25-40 cm thick. It is poured flush with the soil surface, removing the humus. However, a durable shed still needs a foundation that is reliable enough for this type of structure, inexpensive and not very labor-intensive.

Sheds are rarely built on slab foundations: for a conventional foundation they are too labor-intensive and expensive, and in a cowshed or pigsty it is difficult to arrange stalls and a manure pit on a slab. Large livestock barns made of brick are built on a strip or columnar-strip foundation, but for small private farms this is probably unnecessary.

The optimal foundation for a barn is columnar, see fig. Technology of its laying (this is the name of the process of building a foundation); We will analyze here, make this work easier and simpler for the shed. The step-by-step arrangement of a columnar foundation for a barn looks like this:

For concrete, we purchase sand and gravel mixture (SGM) from road workers (not builders), it is much cheaper than construction sand and gravel separately. Concrete on the PGS is not suitable for a residential building, but it will be suitable for a barn;
We also purchase M400 cement at the rate of 1 bag per 9 bags of ASG. The concrete will be M150, enough for a shed;
On the site we make cast-offs from 1 (yes, exactly one) cord on pegs;
We check it as usual, by comparing the diagonals and measuring the sides;
Using the hydraulic hose level, we find the highest angle and set the distance of the cord from the ground surface to 10 cm;
Using the same level, set the cast-off horizontally;
In the lowest corner we drill a hole with a 200-mm hand drill to the calculated depth plus 15-25 cm for a sand-crushed stone cushion;
We make a mark on the drill rod;
We drill the remaining holes until the mark on the drill matches the cord;
We fill the wells with equal layers of sand and crushed stone, compacting each layer. ASG cannot be used here, because the solution being poured should penetrate slightly into the crushed stone;
We roll up pile sleeves with a diameter of 150 mm from 2 layers of roofing felt. We fasten them with 2 mm soft wire. To prevent the sleeves from bursting when pouring, you need 3-4 strapping belts per 1 m of their length;
We put the sleeves in the wells. Place the stones vertically;
We cut the sleeves, using metal scissors or large tailor's scissors, flush with the cord;
We prepare reinforcement cages: 3 (10-12) mm corrugated rods per post, tied with the same 2 mm wire. The vertical pitch of the bundle is 200-250 mm. The distance from the inner edge of the sleeves and their top is usual, 30-50 mm;
We place the frames in sleeves and position them so that they do not touch the walls;
Mix the concrete using an ASG until it becomes creamy thick;
Fill the pillars layer by layer, in layers of 15-20 cm, with a break of 10-25 minutes. between layers. This is called a hydraulic seal fill. In practice, the layers are poured in order, starting from the same column;
Before pouring the last (penultimate) layer, we place anchors in the pillars;
On the 3rd day we backfill the soil with a tamper. Be careful not to knock the posts off the vertical!
On the 7th day (the concrete has gained 50% strength), construction can continue. On the 20th day, at a temperature of 15-25 degrees, the concrete will gain 75% strength and the structure on it is considered suitable for use.

Topside

So now we're building a barn. For example, such as in Fig. It will also fit in a 6-acre dacha without any problems, but it’s a little larger: you can sleep well in it, and there is a compartment for tools. In the future, perhaps for a woodshed or poultry house.

For novice builders, as a rule, the difficulty is not in reading drawings and diagrams, but in how to put their hands to all this? Unaccustomed to carpentry, not roughened by calluses and not provided with special tools? We will dwell on this in more detail.

Frame connections

The barn, as stated above, is non-residential and in general, from the point of view of SNiP (Building Rules and Norms), is barely a structure. Therefore, it is possible, without fearing anything either in essence or on paper, to use thin-walled metal connectors for wooden parts. Regarding residential buildings, SNiPs are merciless: their metal parts must be at least 4 mm thick. This is dictated by fire resistance requirements: in the event of a fire, the building must resist the fire until it collapses for at least a time sufficient to evacuate people. It's easier with a barn.

Mitrel, claw and tenon connections (items 1 and 2 in the figure), which require special tools and sufficient carpentry skills, do not need to be used. If you still have to, you can reinforce it with hardware not with a square or an envelope, but with a pair of nails/screws diagonally (in the inset there) or lengthwise if the part is narrow.

Connections on stamped corners (crossed out in red) without inserting wooden parts are not entirely reliable on joists and ceiling beams, because They are not adapted to shear loads, and the corners themselves are quite expensive. Perforated plates, pos. 3. They can be bent in any way you like, including: and pockets holding vertical stresses. How do you like the ceiling in Fig. on right? No cutting and cutting of tenons and grooves with painstaking calculations and inevitable mistakes for a beginner, but keep an elephant in the attic.

Perforated plates for embedded anchors are especially good, also at pos. 3. Remember the question: how to place a finished shed on a foundation? Now it's clear how.

Nail plates, pos. 4 allow you to save even more on fasteners, but, firstly, they can only be used flat. Secondly, fastening them requires skill so that the nail bends do not wrinkle. The nail plate must either be gradually hammered evenly over the area, or, conversely, immediately driven in with one powerful and precise blow of a sledgehammer.

Note: for permanently loaded shear joints, e.g. floor joists, it is still better to use special thin-walled joist pockets or pockets for joists, pos. 5.

About the casing

In terms of all technical parameters, the best cladding for a barn is plank. Technologically, it is also not complicated if it is sheathed in a cut pattern (“herringbone”, see figure). And it is very cheap if the board used for the cladding is unedged, and what such sheds come out of in skillful hands can be seen in some figs. in the article.

Only boards

Many timber merchants sell boards cheaper than timber, because... More of them come out of one forest. In addition, if you have a circular saw, it will not be difficult to separate cheap unedged ones into measured ones. Therefore, a shed made entirely of boards is a very pressing issue.

How to solve it is shown in Fig. below. Plank beams can even be assembled from scraps, pos. a) and b). The intermediate posts are made box-shaped (pos. c) for internal partitions, and T-bars (pos. d) frame window and door openings.

Is it just boards?

Sheds made of corrugated sheets are most often sold ready-made on a metal frame, pos. 1 in Fig. In general, this is not the best option: such a barn is stuffy in summer and cold in winter. But perhaps, for economic reasons, you will settle on this design. Then you need to take into account that a thin profiled sheet in a building structure will not serve as a working cladding and the wooden frame of a shed made of corrugated sheets needs to be reinforced.

Actually, strengthening the frame will not cost extra money and labor; it is enough to install braces across the entire wall of 40 mm boards, not flat, relative to the lower crown, but edgewise, pos. 2. In this case, there will be a door and a window in the front wall. If there is only a door, then its opening is made in the middle and the jibs are placed on both sides of it.

The struts are not cut into the racks, they are simply nailed. Horizontal slats as thick as the board are placed under the sheathing; When crossing with the braces, breaks are made in the sheathing. The sheathing is attached to both the sheathing and the braces.

Note: It is highly advisable to adjust the dimensions of the shed and the selected corrugated sheeting so that the depressions of the waves of the vertical sheathing fall on the corners. Then they are attached directly to the corner posts, which will give some additional strength to the structure.

The same type of frames can be sheathed with small unmeasured boards: container board (item 3), scraps. You can make a very cute shed out of just about anything in different ways. For example, lighten old boards as described below, sand them, stain them with stain and stuff them in an artistic mess, pos. 4. Or paint the boards separately, creating geometric patterns, or dream up something else.

Very “bad” boards

Old boards are dark and unsightly. The frame of a shed can be whipped up literally from garbage, pos. 1 in Fig. The result will be a painfully familiar bawdy shack, pos. 2. However, if you inherited one from your great-grandfather, but is still quite dilapidated and crooked, it is not so difficult to bring it to a form similar to that in pos. 3:

Take out the window, remove the door.
Support the corners from the outside with struts made of poles, aligning the pillars. If it doesn’t go any further, it’s not necessary, why ruin something that is strong?
Inspect carefully and secure with self-tapping screws. We don’t touch the old nails, let them rust until the end.
Remove the roof and roof sheathing.
Treat the entire structure with wood brightener (regenerator).
After 2-5 days, treat with another biocidal impregnation, drying oil or, in extreme cases, treatment.
Varnish with acrylic varnish if desired. There is no need to paint, the “rusticity” will go away, and the “crookedness” will disappear in all forms.
Install a new window, hang a door, lay a roof.

About lightening wood

Wood restorers are made from bleach. Therefore, if lumber is processed individually, you need to work in the air or in a well-ventilated area. There is no need to apply the composition with a spray, as is often written in the instructions (they seem to be compiled by marketers, not forestry engineers), everything around will be splashed with a caustic liquid. Treat with a brush; best of all - plaster plaster; it absorbs a lot of solution and releases it evenly.

We reached the roof

The advantages of a pitched roof for a shed have already been discussed. If you are more satisfied with a gable roof, then its rafters will be quite sufficient with one suspension without crossbars, pos. B in Fig. The material everywhere is 100x50 timber or 100x40 board. The Mauerlat is not needed; the rafter trusses are attached to the beams of the upper frame on the corners or bent perforated plates. All parts of the truss are connected in the same way.

It is not worth cutting the tops of the legs into each other, as usual (pos. A), nor is it worth fastening the ridge corner of the legs with a steel plate: the first is too difficult, the second is weak. The roof ridge is formed, firstly, on the ground with gussets (pos. B1) from scraps of boards from 20 mm thick. The scarves are placed on both sides, secured with 12 screws, 3 for each half of the scarf. And the final strength of the rafter structure is obtained after installing a ridge girder made of 2 boards, pos. AT 2; it is nailed or screwed to the legs, 2 attachment points per leg.

About sheds for livestock

Sheds for productive domestic animals require a separate description, and one for each species. A cowshed with a pigsty and a chicken coop are combined only geographically on the same farm yard. From the point of view, so to speak, of general barn construction, it is necessary to take into account, first of all, that animal droppings are chemically aggressive, release a lot of ammonia (especially poultry and pork), and its consistency and drying speed are significantly different. In any case, manure must be removed as it arrives and stored, because Any kind of it except pork is a valuable fertilizer.

The first thing that follows from this is that the barn for livestock must be well ventilated, located in accordance with SanPiN and legalized. Further, a heavy pig or a young bull, scratching itself on a corner, will create considerable loads in the structure. A dairy cow weighing half a ton is not yet a giant among its kind, and it comes from 4 hooves, the supporting area of which is much less than 1 square meter. m. That is, about human according to SNiPs 250 kg/sq. We need to forget and take into account the real load.

Finally, goats are known to be not averse to eating pieces of wood. For the barn to be completely eaten up, this has not been observed. But the bactericidal and water-repellent impregnations required for wooden buildings will not benefit them until they die.

So, a chicken barn can be structurally ordinary, but with good ventilation and chemical resistance; for pigs - also wooden, but on a reinforced timber frame, for example, as in rice; For goats, a wooden shed is undesirable, but for cows, in addition, it must be warm, because... a freezing cow gets sick easily and will not give a good milk yield; in general, it is preferable to build a barn for livestock from foam blocks on a strip foundation. A sheepfold may be simpler, but sheep breeding in small private farms is not developed in the world, because... It is only profitable on a large enough scale.

About woodburners

Good natural ventilation is also necessary in a woodshed: the calorific value of wet wood fuel drops sharply, causing heating costs to rise, and a boiler using wet wood will fail faster. For ease of use, woodsheds are most often made as an extension to the house, pos. 1 in the figure, or on the veranda, pos. 2. If this is unacceptable for aesthetic reasons, then a firewood shed is built in accordance with the mode of use and/or climatic conditions.

For a seasonal dacha, inhabited from spring to autumn, with low and irregular fuel consumption, you need a woodshed with wide roof overhangs (from rain) and a solid floor raised above the ground by at least 0.4 m, so that the firewood does not draw in moist fumes from land. It is also highly advisable to remove the humus underneath and cover the soil with waterproofing, pos. 3.

In places with harsh continental winters, preference should be given to ventilation, pos. 4. Ice, as is known, sublimates (turns into steam without melting) even in the Siberian frost, only slowly. But in areas with mild and even more so “rotten” winters of the Mediterranean type, firewood needs to be properly protected from precipitation, pos. 4, turning the woodshed with its rear towards the prevailing winds.

How to save on foundation

Look again at Fig. with a columnar foundation. Doesn't it seem like there are a lot of pillars? Yes, the load-bearing capacity of such a foundation under a barn is excessive, even if it is made of M75 concrete. But there seems to be nowhere to go: if you place the pillars less often than every 1.5-1.7 m, then the lower crown will not receive proper support. And the foundation, as anyone understands, is the most expensive and difficult part of the barn. So, it is quite possible to erect a 3 by 3 m barn on 5 pillars instead of 9, without losing at all in strength.

Let us take into account again that a barn is a non-residential, utility building and non-standard technical solutions are permissible in it. And, remembering what we learned at the university, let’s first turn the flooring from a panel into a membrane. This ingenuity can be easily implemented by hand: we lay the floor from tongue-and-groove boards from 100x40 to 150x40. It is more expensive than edged timber, but the savings on poles will be many times greater than the overexpenditure on timber.

Then let us remember that a triangular membrane is much stiffer than a square membrane of the same area. As a result, we will get the lower crown, as on the left in Fig. There is no need to tinker with trigonometry when calculating oblique grooves: they are marked in place by placing a board on the frame. The floor is laid without joists, directly along the crown beams, from edge to edge. Two 3x3 modules can be brought together for a 6 by 3 m barn, but there is no need to sculpt a large structure from such modules: the calculation is valid if the cells have no more than 1 common beam. There are additional conditions:

Frames are only timber frames 100x100 mm; prefabricated ones made from boards are not suitable.
The vertical frames of the module are supported with struts made of 100x40 boards flat on steel fasteners without any insertion, except for the one where the door will be.
For a 6x3 shed, additional vertical posts from the same board are needed in increments of 1.5 m (not shown in the figure).
The flooring of the 6x3 frame is made of boards 6 m long lengthwise, so that the floor boards are solid.
It is highly advisable to place corner posts (the same timber 100x100) on the so-called. quarter tenon, reinforced with corners, see fig. on the right is higher, and the large intermediate 6x3 frames are half the tree, as marked in the diagram.

In addition

No matter the size of the house, you can’t do without a shed on the site. Not everything can and should be brought into the house, even if there is space, and even if there is not, then even more so - outbuildings are necessary. By the way, this may be your first experience in independent construction: you can build a shed with your own hands without any skills. The main thing is that the hands grow from the right place.

What materials are they built from?

If the shed is located close to the house and you care about its appearance, it makes sense to use the same material as when building the house. If you don’t want to spend a large amount on outbuildings, you can choose the finish so that you can’t tell it from a distance. In most cases, this is not very difficult: there are many technologies and many materials very accurately reproduce the appearance of expensive finishing materials. A striking example of this is. It is available for logs, beams, bricks, stones with different textures. So you don’t have to use expensive materials to build a shed. It is more practical to use inexpensive construction technology, and then cover it with material with a texture similar to the finishing of the main building.

How to quickly and cheaply build a shed

The fastest and at the same time inexpensive option for building a shed is by. The frame can be wooden or, it is sheathed on the outside with finishing, a roof is installed and that’s it, the barn is ready. If the barn is planned to be made of wood, it is assembled from timber and boards. A metal shed can be more conveniently made from a profiled pipe: it has a square section and is much easier to weld and join. There is also a special metal frame. It is assembled using self-tapping screws, and the entire structure is ordered and manufactured at the factory. Such houses are considered the cheapest; barns are unlikely to be expensive. Assembling both a metal and wooden shed takes several days: it has been tested more than once.

The frame building is lightweight, so the foundation for the barn needs a lightweight one. In most cases, columns and concrete blocks are sufficient; sometimes screw piles are installed or bored piles are made. On more difficult soils and for those who love reliability, you can build a monolithic or prefabricated () shallow strip foundation.

Another option. It is suitable for soils from which water drains well, and the groundwater is located deep. Then they mark out an area that is 50 cm larger than the planned barn in each direction, remove the turf and make a sand and gravel backfill. Framing beams are laid on compacted crushed stone and floor joists are attached to them (treated with anti-septic tiles for direct contact of wood with the ground). That's all. No difficulties.

This is far from the best option: even with a low groundwater level and careful processing of the wood, the shed will not last long. If you are comfortable with this, you can do it this way.

Foundation for a frame shed

All types of pile or columnar foundations require the placement of single supports around the perimeter: always at the corners of the building and at the junction of lintels (partitions), if any are provided. The installation step of the supports depends on the size of the barn and what kind of logs you plan to use. The larger the span, the larger the section required for the logs.

For example, for a barn width of 2 meters, you can install only two rows of posts and the logs will be 150 * 50 mm (in extreme cases, 150 * 40 mm). If the width of the barn is 3 meters, then either install intermediate supports (posts, piles), or take a 150 * 70 mm board. Calculate what will be cheaper in your region and choose.

With a board width of 100 mm, the floor bends noticeably under your feet. So you have to make the installation step of the log about 30 cm. Then there is no deflection at all, or it is insignificant (depending on the weight).

The fastest way to make a foundation is on ready-made blocks: you can buy them or make them yourself. Under them, pits are dug a little larger in size than blocks. Sand is poured onto the bottom, compacted, then gravel, this is also compacted. The thickness of the compacted bedding is 20-30 cm. Blocks are installed on it, and the lower trim is mounted on the blocks.

If we are talking about a shallow strip foundation, then a trench is dug 40-60 cm deep relative to the ground level, the width of the strip is about 25 cm, and the trench itself must be wider by at least half a meter or more: the bottom is leveled and compacted. Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted again.

A frame is knitted from a 12-14 mm rod. Four ribbed longitudinal rods are connected using frames made of smooth rod 6-8 mm. The dimensions of the frames must be such that all reinforcement is located at a distance of at least 5 cm from the edges of the tape. For example, if the foundation is 40*25 cm, then the rods are tied into a structure with a rectangular section of 30*15 cm.

A connected frame is installed in the formwork, which is then poured at least M-200

Do-it-yourself wooden frame shed: step by step with photos

A frame barn measuring 6*3 meters was built. The roof is pitched, covered with ondulin. The height of the front wall is 3 meters, the back one is 2.4 m. Operation has shown that with such a difference in height, snow does not accumulate much (Len. region).

Standard FBS 600*300*200 blocks were used as the foundation for the barn. They are laid on a sand and gravel bedding 25 cm thick. A cut-off waterproofing is laid on top of the blocks - a layer of roofing felt, on bitumen mastic. A layer of “hydrotex” is also glued on top of the same mastic. This cake was made because the groundwater level was high, and it was necessary to ensure that the building was protected from dampness.

Start of construction of the barn. Waterproofing is laid on the foundation, a frame is placed on it, and a beam is attached to the frame

A beam with a cross section of 150*150 mm was laid on the waterproofing (all lumber was processed). Connected into half a tree, nailed - 100 * 4 mm. For those who are unfamiliar with carpentry, you can join the beams end-to-end, nail reinforced corners to the joints from the inside, and a mounting plate from the outside.

In this version, the frame was not attached to the blocks in any way. In regions with high wind loads this is unjustified. You can fasten it using studs: a hole of the same diameter (12-14 mm) is drilled under them, through the beam, into the block. A pin is driven into it, the bolt is then tightened with a wrench. To hide the cap, you can drill a hole for it.

The next step is to attach the floor joists. Installed on the edge of a 150*60 mm board. They are attached to the harness with special brackets of the appropriate size. Attached to 100*4 mm nails.

The logs were aligned along the upper edge of the strapping beam. Everything must be level, otherwise the floor will be difficult to lay. You may have to level it with a plane or redo it.

The frame was assembled using the “platform” technology: first the floor was laid, and the walls were mounted on it. The wall frame or part of it is assembled on the floor. In some cases, they are immediately sheathed from the outside if slab material is chosen for the sheathing. And already in this form (with or without casing) they are lifted, placed vertically and secured.

There is a second technology called “balloon”. The frame is mounted along it gradually: the corner posts of the frame are mounted on the frame or even directly on the blocks. They are leveled in all planes. A rope is pulled between them, along which the remaining racks are then placed. They are also nailed one at a time, fastening them together with slopes and temporary cross members.

In this case, the “platform” technology was chosen and 18 mm thick OSB was laid on the logs. In general, the floor can be made of boards, plywood (moisture resistant), OSB, etc. You will need 20 boards, 13-15 mm plywood, but you need moisture resistant (OSB is moisture resistant by default).

Next, the assembly of the walls began. The frame is completely knocked down: the lower frame, the racks, the top frame. In this form, it is installed exactly along the edge of the strapping beam, aligned, reinforced with safety struts, stops, and slopes. It is nailed through the flooring to the trim beam. The nails were 200*4 mm.

To assemble the frame, 100*50 mm boards were used, the distance between the posts was 600 mm, the rafters were installed with the same spacing. The rafter system was assembled from 150*40 mm.

Window and door openings are reinforced - two boards are nailed, which are nailed together in a checkerboard pattern every 20 cm. The load here is greater, so reinforcement is required. There is a gate at one end for loading/unloading large items. Therefore, in this wall (you can see in the photo) there are only corner posts and reinforced ones - for fastening the sashes.

Since the roof is single-pitched, the rafter system is simple: boards that are selected for the rafters are laid on the edge. Their length is longer, since the roof overhang is necessary. It is usually 30-50 cm on each side. In this option, with a barn width of 3 meters, the length of the rafter legs (taking into account the slope) was 3840 mm.

They were nailed obliquely with nails - two on each side. It can be strengthened by installing corners: this will withstand even significant wind and snow loads.

The external walls were covered with OSB 9.5 mm thick.

The doors were installed and small steps were made.

The finishing touches were to install the wind board. The barn was then clapboarded and painted to match the rest of the buildings on the site. The barn was built with your own hands on a ready-made foundation in two weekends. Cladding and painting were done much later - almost a month later.

The final barn...beautiful

The unattractive foundation is covered with asbestos sheets cut to size. It turned out to be a beautiful barn.

Shed with a gable roof made of metal tiles

This barn was built alone. The construction is also frame: the cheapest way. In this case, the assembly method is “balloon” - gradual alignment of the racks. It all starts the same way: first we made columns for the foundation. Only this time they are brick.

As you can see, there are studs built into the corner posts. Holes are drilled in the strapping beam and it is put on studs. They can be done not only in corners, but also on intermediate posts: it will hold on more firmly.

This barn has a small porch, so a cross beam is installed at the required distance. And the wall will support it. Columns were also pre-made for it.

The logs can also be attached with a notch. Then a notch in the shape of the log is cut out in the strapping beam. In depth it should not exceed 30% of the thickness of the beam, so the joist is cut so that it is flush with the frame. This method is more labor-intensive.

Next, the frame was assembled: corner posts 100*100 mm, intermediate posts - 50*100 mm, the top frame and rafter system were assembled from the same board. The triangles at the top are reinforced with applied metal plates. Smaller plates were also attached at the junction of the upper frame beam and the racks. They were connected end-to-end without cutting, nailed on top and diagonally with nails. The plates reduced the likelihood of folding under lateral loads.

The frame was covered with OSB sheets - the most convenient size for construction. Subsequently, the walls will be finished with wood siding.

The sheathing, by the way, does not have to be made of plywood or OSB. You can attach the lining or board directly to the racks. But then, when assembling the frame, you need to install slopes: without the rigidity of the slab material, the building will be flimsy. If you don’t set the slopes, you can swing them by hand.

After installing the braces, you can fill the board, lining, block house, imitation timber - the choice is yours.

For those who are concerned about the appearance of the building, here are some ideas on how to make a barn beautiful in video format.

Video about building wooden sheds

The barn turned out to be beautiful, but not cheap. But it is decent in size, strong and in appearance no different from a house - it fits into the composition. Everything is shown/described in detail, there is one violation: the waterproofing under the metal tiles is laid vertically. Even with good gluing of the strips, sooner or later the water will make a path for itself. Otherwise, everything is correct.

In this case, the barn is built with your own hands on what is probably the cheapest foundation: concrete is poured into old tires. The frame stands on these “pillars”. Naturally, they need to be placed on a flat, reliable surface and they themselves must be at the same level. In terms of strength, the base will not be inferior to the best concrete blocks, and may even surpass them. Tires protruding from under the structure can be closed by making a step and subsequently placing flowers on it or using it for other needs. It will be even more practical.

Another video with a step-by-step illustration of the construction of a frame barn made of timber.

Drawings with dimensions

Several drawings to help you navigate the dimensions of the building. If necessary, adjust to your site or needs.

Shed with a pitched roof - drawing with a diagram of the arrangement of racks

Square barn - dimensions

A barn is a mandatory building on a plot of land. Initially, it serves to store working tools in it, which are needed for installing a more serious structure. The photo shows how to install a shed for a summer house, which later becomes an excellent part of landscape design.

Even initially, such a building was used as a relaxation room, where it was possible to relax on a hot day. When the barn has served its intended purpose, it is left to serve as a storage room or, as a result of a good modernization, it is used as alternative housing. The photo shows how an ordinary garden shed turns into a harmonious element of the landscape.

Several options for a garden shed

There are several ways to choose a space in which to put a shed. Of course, the right solution would be to hide it from prying eyes by building it behind the house or behind a high fence. It is best to consider this building from a practical point of view, installing a shed near the place where it may actually be needed.

Ready container shed

This is one of the easiest ways to purchase a finished structure. This shed is made on the basis of a metal frame, where there is insulation inside the casing and electrical wiring is laid. There are several types of ready-made buildings; some of them already have a shower, toilet and rest area.

It can be placed using a crane on concrete blocks or piles. If there is a need to supply water, then this should not be difficult since you can easily do it yourself.

After using the container, it is easy to sell it without unnecessary difficulties, since this structure is not real estate.

Barn made of slab

This is the cheapest way to build a shed with your own hands, especially since its construction does not require a foundation. To protect the shed from moisture, place it on a flat surface.

A timber is used as a base, then it is covered with a slab. To make the barn more attractive, climbing plants are planted around its perimeter. Regular painting will extend the life of such a structure.

It will not be possible to operate this barn for a long time - a maximum of 5 years, and then it is better to build something more reliable. This option is very budget-friendly, but it cannot exactly be called durable.

Frame barn

This method allows you to quickly assemble the structure. In addition, this option is considered a budget option, and in order for the structure to be reliable, it is made of strong logs.

One of the advantages of such a structure is that over time you can easily replace the skin and finish everything with a completely different material. The roof is also being replaced with a gable roof.

In the future, you can use tiles instead of roofing felt. After which the frame barn will acquire attractive features and will become a beautiful addition to the existing buildings. This building is installed on piles.

Foam block shed

This is a good alternative to build a shed that will last for many years and at little cost. This option does not need additional insulation, because the structure made of this material has good thermal insulation properties. If you cover it with siding or other expensive material, then such a barn will take on a very solid appearance.

Brick barn

This is the most reliable option among all the others. And it can withstand even a severe fire. In such a barn it is good to raise any livestock from poultry to cattle. As a rule, such a structure is built from bricks after the main dwelling has been installed.

This building is in perfect harmony with all elements of landscape design. It is difficult to organize such a structure, and the resulting costs will be high, but the advantages ultimately outweigh it. The main factor is that such a shed will last for many years.

DIY barn

The most common option is to install a frame shed. Now in more detail about how to build a wooden shed in the country or near your home. Initially, all parameters are taken into account and measurements are taken at the place where the shed is installed. It can be installed on a regular foundation, and piles will also be appropriate.

It is necessary to place asbestos pipes in the corners of the selected area, and where the walls join, after which they are filled with a cement mixture. After pouring, the solution must be allowed to harden, so it is left for a couple of weeks.

In order for the piles to serve for a long time, they need to be impregnated with mastic, this will give them additional protection from water and insects.

Frame installation

At the very beginning, the wooden beam, which is the basis of the building, is treated with special means to prevent the wood from being damaged. The beam is mounted into a ready-made foundation using roofing felt as a spacer between the concrete product and the wooden post. It is best to lay the floor right away; this will make it possible to better install the vertical racks.

The pillars are attached below, taking into account how many corners there will be, as well as openings. Before firmly fixing them, you need to make sure that the racks are distributed vertically. When the racks are secured, the upper frame is installed on them, this will be the upper part of the frame. Just before this you need to make cuts on the sides and in the middle. All elements are connected using metal corners and self-tapping screws.

Roof installation

To install a pitched roof, you need to calculate the size of the racks so that on one side they are longer, this will make it possible to create the correct slope, which in turn will allow precipitation to flow to one side.

The load-bearing base of the roof should be made of boards 40 mm thick. It is important that the rafters are 50-60 cm longer than the base of the building. The boards are located at intervals of 0.5 cm from each other.

At the junction of the rafters with the timber, cuttings are made, and after installation, this structure is fastened with self-tapping screws. The finished frame is sheathed with 25x150 mm boards. Roofing felt is placed on the roof. But it’s better not to limit yourself to roofing felt and for even greater strength and solidity you need to lay corrugated sheets on the roof; you can use tiles for these purposes.

The building is sheathed first from the front, and then from the sides and back. Of course, it is best to sand the outside of the cladding boards with a sanding machine. Then the building will not only have a solid appearance, but will also allow precipitation to easily flow down without saturating the wooden surface.