How to lay paving slabs on an old concrete path? How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base Laying concrete paving slabs.

For areas with high pedestrian traffic, car parks, and for sidewalks with places for cars to pass, it is better to lay paving slabs on concrete. The technology is designed for high loads. Concrete has a high load-bearing capacity, that is, it does not lose its functional qualities in the long term. Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is the key to a stable, time-tested coating.

With the help of tiles, paths, streets and squares are lined on the street, in a personal plot, and the blind area around a house or building is covered. It provides a convenient and practical tile covering for the movement of people and cars, as well as a well-groomed appearance of the landscaped area.

Advantages of using concrete for paving

Despite the higher cost of a concrete base, the prospect of preserving the paving stones in proper form for many years determines the customer’s choice.

Before deciding whether to use it as a base for paving slabs, you need to understand what advantages the material provides compared to laying it on sand and crushed stone.

Characteristics of concrete:

  • strength;
  • density;
  • plastic;
  • waterproof;
  • fire resistance.

Durability that increases over time

The material has the ability to resist loads without collapsing, which determines its high load-bearing capacity. This characteristic of concrete depends on many conditions: the activity of cement, the quality of the constituent elements - sand, crushed stone, gravel, water. Conditions also influence:

  • kneading;
  • transportation;
  • styling;
  • hardening;
  • age of concrete.





Density

The basis of the indicator is the ratio of solid matter in the material and pores that are formed as a result of the penetration of air or water into the mixture. For example, a concrete density of 0.9 means that the mixture is 90% solid and 10% voids. The denser the mixture, the better. In this indicator, the crushed stone base is significantly inferior, since its density is lower.

Plastic

After it has been poured onto the set concrete, the laying of paving slabs on the mortar begins. A solution of cement-sand mixture in a ratio of 1:1 is laid on it.

To do this, take dry masonry, river or sifted sand, add the same volume of cement, mix and fill the seams between the coating using a broom.

Sweep the tiles until all the cement-sand mixture is swept from it into the seams. If this is not done, then after the first rain the cement will be absorbed into it, turning it from colored to gray. The seams are swept in dry weather. The flagstone is laid using a level in accordance with the drawing.

In a situation where the customer wants to update old paths by laying them with a new modern coating on old concrete, it may turn out that the base is in unusable condition. A logical question arises: is it possible to lay paving slabs on old concrete?

A properly installed trough and good concrete will create a high-quality base for paving over many years. If the concrete does not have serious damage, failures or defects, then laying concrete paving slabs can be carried out according to the rules described above.

Before paving, the old base is cleared of debris and dust, cracks, cracks and chips are sealed with cement. After drying, level the surface. In addition to the cement-sand mixture, tiles can be installed on an old concrete base using liquid tile adhesive.

Conclusion

If the old concrete base has significant damage, then it is better to remove it and create a new one, otherwise the new coating will fall off after a few seasons. This is relevant for places with high traffic of people, and even more so the roadway.

The choice of tiled modules for the construction of alleys, platforms and other ground surfaces is due to their durability and attractiveness. But, in addition to choosing the material, you also need to deal with its installation: laying can be done on sand, sand-cement mixture, gravel and concrete. Next, we’ll look at the last option in more detail and tell you how paving slabs are laid on a concrete base and why this is done.

Features of installation on concrete

This choice of base is especially relevant in cases where concrete has already been poured in the area needed to create the coating. Dismantling concrete is problematic, and you don’t always want to give up such a cushion (a certain amount of money was previously invested in it). That is why it is decided that paving slabs will be laid on a concrete base.

If the production of paving slabs was carried out in accordance with GOST standards, and the concrete base was prepared taking into account all the points, the surface will be able to withstand constant loads from the weight of trucks, and will last for decades.

IMPORTANT! But before making the final choice of this masonry option, it is worth considering that concrete does not conduct moisture through itself. It will collect under the tile covering and in cold seasons this can lead to its deformation (swelling, etc.). That is why it is important to properly think through the drainage system.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base?

This work is divided into the following main processes: foundation preparation and installation.

Preparing the foundation

The work is performed in the following sequence:

    The soil is removed, if there is no concrete screed, approximately one bayonet (about 22 centimeters);

    The top of the “pit” is leveled, compacted and cleared of foreign elements;

    Waterproofing is installed (if necessary);

    Crushed stone is poured onto the bottom and compacted (the layer is slightly more than 10 cm);

    The reinforcement belt is installed;

    The boundaries of the future surface are marked;

    The formwork is being constructed;

    A concrete mixture is prepared with the required proportions;

    The solution is poured in layers of 5-8 cm in several stages - the next one can be poured only after the previous one has gained strength;

    You immediately need to form a slope and drainage system (if there is one);

    With the help of a more elastic and liquid layer of cement mixture, the surface is completely leveled.

If you are not confident in your own construction skills, then it is better to turn to specialists. They are guaranteed to carry out high-quality laying of paving slabs and TURNKEY PAVEMENT TILES - the price is quite reasonable, taking into account the specifics of the work.

Carrying out the laying

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base (the price of doing this work by craftsmen depends on its complexity, volume and the need to lay out complex patterns) looks something like this:

    The formwork is removed and the curb stone is installed;

    You can lay out the elements in advance to understand the installation sequence (if you plan to create a complex design);

    Thick concrete is made and applied to an already prepared concrete site;

    The tile module is laid and pressed in slightly;

    Evenness of placement is achieved by tapping the surface of the tile with a rubber mallet;

    All the time, the evenness of the installation is checked using a level.

Be sure to install a sidewalk drain - it will prevent large volumes of water from accumulating in specific areas of the pavement.

At its core, paving slabs are laid on a concrete base quite simply, but you need to know many small details that only professionals can take into account.

How to properly lay paving slabs on a concrete base?

So unusual at first, paving slabs have firmly entered our lives. Nowadays you won’t surprise anyone with an openwork pattern near a house or store; on the contrary, rare islands of asphalt along the main street are perceived as something alien and unusual.

The use of paving slabs, in addition to the obvious visual effect, also has practical reasons.

Let's get acquainted with them, as well as with the installation technology.

Benefits of use


Laying methods

  • With minimal knowledge and skills, as well as a lot of patience, you can lay paving slabs yourself.

    This will allow you to significantly save on the cost of such a project, and also guarantee a positive result and the acquisition of the necessary experience in such work (which can always come in handy).

  • First you need to decide on a possible installation method, as well as prepare tools and materials.
  • Typically, such a coating requires a cement or adhesive mortar. Both methods are good in their own way, but also have their weaknesses.

    If the advantage of cement mortar is cost, then installation with special glue will be much easier to perform.

Video showing laying paving slabs with glue:

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base

How to properly lay tiles on a concrete base? The presence of a concrete base will significantly simplify the task of laying paving slabs.

This coating is characterized by a high degree of strength and good performance characteristics.

Pouring the concrete base, progress of work


After the solution has hardened, we will begin laying the tiles, especially since the necessary materials and tools have already been prepared. To prepare the cement mortar, only sifted sand is used, otherwise there is a risk of small stones and foreign inclusions.

Before installation, it is advisable to lay out the finished pattern and mark the end of the pattern.

This is especially true for complex geometric shapes. Also, do not rush into the final installation of the curbs: install the corner, and after laying the path - the remaining sides.

Tile laying algorithm

  1. The formwork is dismantled and curbs are installed.
  2. Let's prepare two types of cement mortar mixture: one thicker - for laying tiles, and the second thinner - for pouring between the seams.

    If installation is carried out using special glue, the solution is prepared according to the instructions. Laying on a dry layer is allowed, but if you do not have the necessary skills, this option is too complicated.

  3. A layer of cement is laid using a construction trowel, 2–3 centimeters high, then leveled.
  4. Laying out each tile in accordance with the pattern, lightly press it into the cement and tap it with a rubber mallet.
  5. Thus, the entire canvas is laid, constantly monitoring the laying level using building levels and initial markings.

Laying paving slabs does not seem to be a difficult task, especially for the owners of a country house, where they constantly have to master the construction profession.

There are also several other options for laying tiles without pouring a concrete base. If you are laying rubber tiles, the instructions will be different.

The video shows a detailed algorithm for laying tiles:

Features of laying on old concrete

Often there is already an old path on the site that you want to somehow modernize to suit modern conditions.

Laying paving slabs on old concrete is also possible, even with lower financial and labor costs. But this method is allowed if the coating is still quite intact and without major defects, otherwise, the concrete layer still needs to be removed and replaced with a new one.

How to lay paving slabs on old concrete:

  1. We inspect the coating: remove crumbs and chipped pieces, sweep away debris and sand, remove oil stains with a solvent - the surface must be as clean as possible.
  2. Pits and potholes are filled with cement mortar, the bumps are combed off, the surface is leveled as best as possible and the necessary slope is made.
  3. Afterwards, the work algorithm is repeated identically to laying paving slabs on a concrete base.

As mentioned earlier, if there is serious damage and simply deformation from loads and long-term use, the old coating must be removed.

If this is not done, in a couple of years your work on laying paving slabs may be ruined. On the other hand, if the concrete base is strong enough and reliable, it will not be practical to remove it, especially since in this way the cost of the finished sidewalk can be significantly reduced.

Here you can see prices for submersible pumps for wells.

Here you can see what distance should be between the septic tank and the well: http://2gazon.ru/voda/vodozabor/kolodcy/rasstoyanie.html.

Is it possible to lay tiles on asphalt?

An equally rational solution would be to lay paving slabs on the old asphalt surface.

First, the possible load on the surface is determined. If in the future this plane will be used only as a pedestrian path, then the option of laying it without first dismantling the asphalt is quite acceptable.

In the video - laying paving slabs on asphalt with your own hands:

To do this, you need to perform a number of works:


For better drainage, the asphalt surface is drilled with a hammer drill in several places before laying. The greater the frequency of drainage holes, the easier it will be for excess moisture to be absorbed later. In case of complete wear of the old asphalt pavement, it is necessary to dismantle it in order to avoid deformation of the new sidewalk, which will entail costs for repairing the surface.

Paving slabs are an unusually durable and convenient type of covering.

The advantages of this sidewalk allow it to successfully win the competition with similar types of surfaces. An undoubted advantage in use will be the relatively simple installation and the ability to install on an old concrete or asphalt surface.

Installing paving slabs is a great option to create a unique path or area with your own hands!

Based on materials from the site: http://2gazon.ru

Paving slabs are the optimal solution for most surfaces on which people walk, be it paths, platforms, and so on. Attractive and wear-resistant, it is relatively inexpensive and has remarkable properties that allow it to be used in various conditions and under various load levels.

And the technology of paving with paving slabs is quite accessible for implementation on your own. As an example, this can be convenient at the dacha, when you shouldn’t count on someone else’s help.

Calculation of slopes

Before the installation process, it is important to treat the surface.

In general, the scope of the project for paving sidewalks with tiles is not so large if the work is done, as an example, within the framework of a summer house, but there are subtleties. One of the key things to take into account is maintaining slopes. Rainstorms are not uncommon in our country, so it is necessary to remove moisture, protecting against the accumulation of water. The approximate slope, optimal for most situations, is equal to a centimeter by ten meters.

You can use slopes as landscaping techniques, using them to mask unsightly places and optimize space.

Preparing the base

It is also critical to carry out the correct preparation of the base.

The quality of installation depends on it. If the base is of poor quality or the cushion under the paving slabs is of poor quality, the pavement may break and the coating may sag. As a result, it will be necessary to redo the entire paving of the paths with paving slabs.

Pay attention to the density.

Many materials have disadvantages. Clay tends to erode greatly. The sand is washed away, the base begins to subsidence, and water accumulates at the site of the subsidence. It is especially not recommended to use ordinary soil.

It is unstable in relation to soaking and absorbs moisture, which freezes directly in it in order to deform the structure from the inside during the thaw.

Methods for laying paving slabs on a concrete base

Crushed stone is often used to lay tiles. Here, there are also pros and cons.

For optimal results, a sand-cement mixture with a threefold predominance of sand is used. It is poured into a three-centimeter layer, leveled with a rake and moistened with a small stream of water.

Preparing the border

A significant part of the preparations is the installation of curbs.

Without them, the edges will break off, and the overall strength of the structure will noticeably decrease. They are made from stone, round or rectangular. To lay the borders, a small trench is dug with pitch about five centimeters deep.

About 50% of the border is hidden underground. The result is carefully compacted to achieve maximum strength and stability.

Laying tiles

When paving paths with paving slabs in a dacha with your own hands, it is recommended to lay the material away from the curb so as not to trample the prepared areas once again.

To ensure that the material adheres evenly to the surface, it is tapped with a mallet or rubber hammer. Everything is laid out as evenly as possible, respecting the sequence and pattern.

If necessary, everything is sprinkled with sand again.

Coating care

After paving with paving slabs, it is not enough to simply leave it as is. It must be constantly looked after so that it does not lose its properties.

In particular, do not use paint and varnishes, replacing entire fragments of the coating if repairs are necessary. When removing snow and leaves, it is not recommended to use sharp objects that can damage the coating.

Construction of sidewalks, blind areas and pedestrian paths from paving slabs

Paving slabs make it possible to decorate and improve the surfaces of various areas from sea piers to squares, sidewalks and railway platforms.

The installation of paving slabs allows you to give any area a pleasant, civilized look.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base with your own hands: +Video

In addition, they require less labor compared to other types of coatings. The variety of colors and shapes of the produced tiles allows you to select and create a pattern to suit every taste.

There are three main manufacturing technologies:

  • Vibration casting technology
  • Vibration pressing
  • Hyperpressing

It should be noted that the first two methods are practically not used in the West.

This is due to the fact that only hyper-pressing makes it possible to obtain the highest quality and at the same time significantly save on the material that mainly affects the cost of the tiles - cement.

Installation of paving slabs

Construction of a blind area made of paving slabs

Due to the fact that the paving slab coating has a large number of seams (cracks) through which water can penetrate, its design has some features:

  • A recess of 25-30 cm is made along the foundation to the width of the blind area, depending on the soil
  • Clay is placed at the bottom of such a trench in a layer of 10-15 cm with a mandatory slope away from the building and careful compaction
  • The clay layer is covered with a waterproofing material (preferably polyethylene film in several layers)
  • Next, a layer of sand is laid down to the level of laying the tiles (with obligatory tamping)
  • Paving slabs are laid on top of such a pie in the usual way.

Clay and film can reliably protect the foundation or basement from moisture, and a layer of sand prevents the appearance of puddles on the surface of the blind area.

Installation of tile sidewalks

Just a few decades ago, the main material for covering sidewalk paths was exclusively asphalt.

Today, the construction of paths, covering squares and sidewalks with tiles has become commonplace.

Main advantages:

  • The estimate for installing paving slabs is comparable to the estimate for asphalt pavement
  • Great possibilities in choosing colors and shapes for specific purposes
  • Ability to withstand heavy loads and durability
  • The ability to perform work without the use of expensive equipment and mechanisms
  • Possibility of making adjustments and ease of repair during operation

With all the advantages, the installation of paving slabs requires careful and painstaking work, high-quality preparation of the base, taking into account the features of the relief and the conditions for drainage of storm water.

Home >> Laying bridge stones> Laying photo tiles

Shooting Lesson: We press the pressure plate with our hands

Detailed photos on how to apply flooring in the country. Various methods and possibilities for placing tiles are considered.

You should understand the basic types of stones before you start laying them. The main types of stones are stamped and vibrated.

It's best to avoid choosing shake tiles, which with a slightly higher price tag more than make up for their beautiful appearance and durability.

The thickness of the paving slab may vary. Typically, the thickness of the soaked slab ranges from 20-60 mm. 20mm pavements are suitable for garden paths or areas where a car is not guaranteed.

In the yard the pressure was usually 40-45 mm. 60mm tiles are suitable for heavier ton trucks.

The pattern may be optional, but for beginners, it is not recommended to place tiles such as diamond, brick, and paver. This type of tile is more difficult, it takes a master to work with it even more.

The color of the tile can also be almost anything, but it is worth considering that the tile is more expensive than gray. This article takes into account the technology of laying sidewalks by hand.

Materials and tools for laying paving stones


Laying paving stones

Decide on the slope of the city.

There must be a gradient of several degrees, otherwise the water will remain in the yard after it rains. It is best to refuse in the direction of the street. If you choose to follow this advice, street level is taken as the zero point.

In the direction of the zero (the line that the platform tilts towards), pull two metal pins into the ground and pull the thread between them. Check the level with the level.

It is best to use a level from below.

Tie another thread to one of the hooks and stretch it straight to the first. Connect a strand of thread to the new hook and insert it into the ground so that the other end is slightly above zero.

This can be checked using a level (the angle of inclination should be several degrees).

Add another thread at the same level as the previous clamped key and advance it parallel to the zero, check the horizontal level.

Attach the bun to the fourth wedge.

Connect the first one and the hooks with the thread. The result is a rectangle marked with threads and lying in the plane of the next page with plates.

Now you need to divide the surface into strips. The width of the tape is selected according to the length of your rule (the tape should be already a few centimeters).

Place the selected distance and hammer from the zero line. Do the same on the opposite side.

Connect the grub screws, align the height with the edges of the rectangle, perpendicular to the zero line. Divide the entire area equally into strips.

Now you need to align the pad with the tag. If the array is too close to the ground, it is necessary to remove the soil and shake out the excess holes. The distance between the floor and the thread should be about twice the thickness of the tile. All this makes the eyes not need special precision.

The example, especially if it is poured, must be carefully modified.

To do this, use tampers. In our case, the gate was manufactured independently of the tap point with a welded handle.

Once the plot is level, you can start laying the pavers.

Prepare a sand/cement mixture. To do this, pour a pile of sand directly onto the ground, gradually mixing cement in a ratio of approximately 6 to 1. It is desirable that the sand is moist, so laying paving slabs to create more in the spring or autumn, when it is not very hot and quite humid,

Prepare the mixture evenly on one of the strips.

Arouse thoroughly.

Place steel tubes under the beads indicating the edge of the ribbon. The distance between the pipe and the thread should be one centimeter less than the thickness of the tile.

The pipes must be strictly parallel to the threads and must be of the same height.

Provide shoes and trousers that do not cause damage, do not forget about knee pads. Kneel between the threads, go under the rule below them and draw on the surface of the pipe. You will see where you need to add the cement sand mixture.

Pour out the required amount of cement sand mixture. Start the handshake by stretching the rule.

You will receive a smooth tape ready for installation. You can collect a small mixture of cement and sand on a flat surface.

Prepare and check the tiles thoroughly and place them in a pile near the prepared surface.

The tiles are mostly flat, but there are some errors. Some tiles can be convex (turtles), concave (slabs), or curved (propellers). It is best not to use these tiles and dispose of them in case of emergency.

Place one tile, carefully align it along the axis of the marking.

Press the tile with a rubber hammer and push it into the ground until it reaches the marking level.

Do the same with the next tile. The sequence of placement of sheets is selected in accordance with the pattern of the plates.

Start plastering yourself.

So, gradually move forward, you will walk on the newly placed tiles.

Prepare the base in the same way and place the next pavers.

If there are obstacles (in our case, gas pipes and sewer pipes), they should be covered with solid tiles.

The final coating and fitting is best done at the end.

The tiles must be cleaned after each working day.

When laying tiles, cracks must be filled. This is a filling process called sweeping. For sweeping we need dry sand and cement. Mix them in a ratio of 1 to 6. The mixture is sprayed evenly over the plate and then folded several times to fill the gap.

There is a small chance that your site will be completely rectangular, so you won't be able to do this without any leftovers.

Where you should cut, indicate the location. Tile cutting is done using a diamond disc mill over concrete.

To create flower beds, mark them with carvings or blanks.

The excess tiles extending beyond the flowerbeds are gone.

How to Place Pavers on a Concrete Foundation

Flower fences and slab edges should be framed with a border. To do this, dig a putty knife or a small trowel with a groove along the edge.

The depth of the trench is selected in accordance with the depth of the curb.

Install the edges and secure them to the wire using thick mortar. Right next to the edges you will have cells where you should place the cut tiles. The soil in these areas should be especially carefully compressed, as digging a trench may collapse.

Cut out other tiles needed to fill the gaps that occurred while crossing obstacles.

If the pads are closer to the door, then it is better not to lie in the cement sand mixture, but this is a solution, since this will be the heaviest load on the tiles in this place.

This article discusses the process of placing tiles in the yard, in the case of garden paths and blind surfaces, it is much simpler and does not require such careful preparation.

The article was prepared based on material from the website DIY.ru

Advantages of laying paving slabs on a concrete base

A substrate made of sand and crushed stone can often shrink. It is not suitable in cases where it is necessary to make a blind area for a building or a parking lot, therefore, when the most reliable and high-quality paving is required, laying paving slabs on a concrete base is more relevant.

This design can withstand significant loads and have a long service life.

  1. Advantages and disadvantages
  2. Do-it-yourself installation
  3. Masonry price

Tile selection

First of all, you should pay attention to the frost resistance of paving stones - it should be within F100÷F200.

Equally important is how much weight the coating can withstand, that is, the compressive strength (50 MPa is recommended). Pay attention to the absence of chips along the edges of the tiles; you should also refuse to purchase if the structure of the product is porous.

To ensure that each tile is laid securely and evenly on the concrete base, depressions, protrusions and other irregularities are unacceptable.

An overly saturated, bright or uneven color often indicates a violation of the dyeing technology and, as a result, insufficient strength of the products.

Stages of work

The decision to lay paving slabs on concrete can be dictated either by the need to restore the previous coating or by the desire to update the existing design, while preliminary restoration of the old base is not necessary.

To lay a garden path with paving slabs on a mortar you need:

  • install curbs along the edges (they will require recesses filled with compacted crushed stone);
  • over a short distance onto the crushed stone (or the remaining wet concrete base), pour a cement-sand screed in a ratio of 1:4 and a thickness of about 3 cm, level it using the rule and immediately, without allowing the solution to set, lay the tiles, leaving the gaps minimal.

    Pour a new portion of the screed and repeat everything until it is completely laid over the entire area of ​​the path;

  • seal the seams between the paving stones with mortar or grout; if they get on the front surface of the path, remove it before it hardens.

Sometimes the idea may arise to renew the old concrete surface in the garage using paving slabs, although the idea is not the best: over time, it will not be possible to avoid traces of oils, antifreeze and other liquids.

In addition, the entrance will have to be adjusted, as the surface level will rise. But, if the decision is made, then the technology for laying tiles in a garage with glue is as follows:

  • The concrete surface is thoroughly cleaned of dirt and dust;
  • for better adhesion, the screed is primed;
  • the tiles are laid out on the garage floor to eliminate inaccuracies and errors and to trim in advance (if necessary);
  • Some of the tiles are removed, glue is applied to the concrete (both ready-made and in the form of a dry mixture, the latter must be diluted as indicated on the packaging) and installation is carried out.

    To maintain the same minimum gaps, plastic crosses are installed. The procedure is repeated until the entire garage floor is filled;

  • The seams are rubbed down and the surface is cleaned.

Pros and cons and cons of concrete base

The first is that the coating can withstand loads greater than on a conventional substrate.

Guide to laying paving slabs on a concrete surface

The concrete base gives confidence that the tiles will not sag, and their service life is significantly increased. The disadvantage is that when laying outdoors, it is necessary to maintain a slope of 2-3 degrees to ensure water drainage during precipitation.

If we are talking about updating the old foundation, the costs of which are no longer taken into account, then the “cons” will include the price of laying it on a concrete screed.

It is relatively expensive to prepare a solid base, which is itself a covering, and then lay paving stones on top of it.

DIY styling

Laying is not so difficult that it cannot be done independently.

To lay 4 cm paving slabs on concrete with your own hands, you will need:

  • Install limiting formwork or lay curbs along the edges of the screed;
  • prepare a sand-cement mortar 4:1;
  • Having wetted the screed, distribute the mixed mortar so that the required slope is maintained;
  • lay the tiles, maintaining minimal gaps between them and adjusting their correct position using a rubber hammer;
  • place the trimmed elements in the appropriate places last;
  • promptly clean the front surface of the tiles from the mortar;
  • Upon completion of installation, grout the joints.

Price

The cost of laying on a concrete screed is usually higher than on other types of foundations, this is explained by the additional costs of its production and the need to provide a slope and additional drainage.

The estimated cost for work in Moscow is given in the table:

Company Types of jobs Price, rub/m2 Notes
"Astroy" straight paving 500 auxiliary work is carried out according to the estimate
decorative 600
trimming edge elements 180 l.m
"Roscemgroup" on a base of crushed stone and sand 850 customer materials, area up to 600 m2
600
with preparation 1 300
from crushed stone and sand 1 850 materials and work of the company, area up to 600 m2
on a finished concrete base 2 600
with preparation 1 300
"Moskladka" ready-made paving 750 with materials
-/- 500 without materials
"Stroy Martz" on a finished base 500 -/-
with preparation 1 000 -/-
"Full construction" 1 700 materials and base preparation

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base is carried out according to a special algorithm. If you strictly adhere to the recommended installation technology, you are guaranteed to receive a reliable and highly durable coating for areas with heavy traffic.

In recent years, owners of suburban areas are increasingly paving paths on the territory of their summer cottages with paving slabs (this material is often called paving stones). In terms of its strength characteristics, it is in no way inferior to asphalt and concrete coatings, and in terms of purely aesthetic characteristics it is far superior to them. Laying tiles on concrete is carried out using a special technology, which is considered quite complex and labor-intensive. But it’s quite possible to implement it with your own hands. You just need to thoroughly understand the features of the concrete base and the rules for arranging paving stones on it.

Concrete base for laying tiles

It's important to remember a few things here. First of all, the concrete base must be a perfectly leveled area intended for laying the tiles of interest to us. This method of installing paving stones guarantees a truly durable and long-lasting coating. The key advantage of a concrete base is its maximum stability. This characteristic distinguishes the concrete base for the better from the soil base and sand-crushed stone cushions. The latter, under the influence of the weather, can sag (and quite noticeably), as a result, dragging the paving slabs along with them.

Such dire situations do not happen if the paving stones are laid on a flat concrete platform. Even under severe mechanical loads, the tiles will not sag. Thanks to this, you can lay paths with straight and curved shapes without worrying about them changing their configuration over time. The technology for installing paving stones on concrete yourself requires the creation of a high-quality system for draining water from the surface of the finishing material we are considering. For these purposes, point moisture inlets should be installed, storm drains should be laid, and tiles should be placed with a slight slope in a certain direction.

If you follow the specified rules for installing paving stones on concrete, you will not have any problems with the coating for many decades. Paths paved with paving slabs will delight you with their durability and perfect appearance.

The described method of laying tiles requires careful preparation of the site for paving. You need to divide the area according to a given project, install pegs along the boundaries and set the so-called red marks. By this, professionals understand a thread (well stretched between pegs), indicating the height of the site being developed. It’s easy to put red marks with your own hands. You just need to tie the twine to the pegs at the height where the pavers will end. Here it is important not to forget about the five-degree slope of the thread to the place where you will subsequently install water receivers.

Marking the area before laying tiles

Note! Height marks must also be set in situations where it is planned to lay paths with a small width. The red thread in this case provides:

  • perfectly leveled horizontal surface;
  • smooth edge of the tile;
  • the required slope of the drains.

After installing the red marks, you need to measure the free space between the soil and the thread. If the distance between them is less than 0.3 m, you will have to remove the excess earth with a shovel, obtaining a pit suitable for laying. Builders call it a trough. It is advisable to reinforce the edges of the excavation with curbs. Experienced craftsmen install them after filling the earthen trough with concrete mixture. But this technology is usually not suitable for home craftsmen. It requires the construction of formwork from boards, the task of which is to protect the edge of the paving area from crumbling soil. Building a formwork structure is quite time-consuming and difficult. For this reason, it is better for self-taught craftsmen to install borders right away.

The height of the curb should be slightly lower than the surface of the paving slabs. Then the moisture will not stagnate on the paved area, but will drain from it. Typically, curbs 0.5 m high are used for laying paving stones in dachas. For those who plan to work with such products, we provide a simple method for their proper installation. The work flow diagram is as follows:

  1. Deepen the pit another 0.3 m.
  2. Fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of crushed stone.
  3. Fill the hole with cement solution (layer height – 1.5–2.5 cm).
  4. Install the curb on the cement fill.

Now you should wait about a day, and then boldly start pouring concrete. More on this later.

When arranging an ordinary pedestrian platform, it is advisable to lay a small layer of sand (thickness up to 10 cm) at the bottom of the pit. It will serve as additional drainage. And the main drainage system is made by creating special holes. The drainage in this case is made from pieces of asbestos pipe. The height of these pieces is within 0.15–0.2 m (it must coincide with the depth of the concrete layer being poured). Simply cut the required number of pieces from a single piece of asbestos pipe. And then spread them around the site. One piece of tubular product is required for one square of area.

Then start pouring the concrete mixture. It is made from sand, cement and crushed stone (the ratio of elements is 3:1:2). There is no need to remove pieces of pipe after filling. The concrete will harden in about 2-3 days. You can rest during this time and gain strength before carrying out the main operation - directly laying the paving stones. If you are building a pedestrian path on your suburban area, there is no need to reinforce the concrete base. If you are pouring a paving area where large vehicles will regularly travel, it is advisable to additionally strengthen the concrete base. To do this, use a simple method described below.

Pouring concrete

Reinforcement is performed with metal rods of small thickness. They must be connected into a single structure with cells of 20x20 or 15x15 cm. When using reinforcing elements, filling is carried out in two stages. First you make one layer of concrete. Place a metal mesh on it. And pour the concrete mixture on top again.

If you have done all the preparatory operations correctly, you will not have any difficulties installing paving stones on a concrete base. In most cases, laying tiles begins from the curb. It is advisable to install the tiles in the direction of water flow (from top to bottom), focusing on the marked marks. Experienced specialists often lay the first products on the most visible side of the site. In this case, the paving surface is visually completely ideal, since the fit of the tiles and all their cuts remain in the most inconspicuous places. But this method causes many problems for novice craftsmen. Therefore, it is better not to use it if your paving experience is minimal.

Laying paving slabs

The paving stones are laid with gaps (4–5 mm), and not end to end. This is done for a reason. The presence of gaps protects paving slabs from cracking caused by moisture and temperature changes. Each laid tile must be leveled using a rubber hammer. Just tap on the surface of the paving stones and do not forget to constantly check the horizontalness of the mounted surface with a level. After laying all the tiles, the resulting surface is pressed down with a vibrating plate. The seams between the products should be filled with fine particles. Pour it onto the area and sweep it into the gaps with a broom. And sweep away excess sand from the paving stones.

You have installed paving slabs on concrete. Congratulations!

Laying paving stones is an excellent solution for improving the local area, garden landscape and arranging a recreation area. You can do paving with paving slabs yourself - the technology is quite simple and does not require the use of professional equipment. Knowing some of the nuances of working with a concrete base, you will be able to create a beautiful, durable and wear-resistant coating.

Paving slabs on concrete: pitfalls of laying paving stones

Many people prefer to use paving stones as a finishing material for country houses, summer cottages, sidewalks, paving areas, gazebos and patios. Paving slabs are optimally suited for these purposes due to their performance characteristics:

  • resistance to temperature fluctuations and the possibility of using cladding in regions with harsh climates;
  • frost resistance - high-quality tiles can withstand up to 300-400 freeze/thaw cycles;
  • high strength of finishing material - up to 300 kg/sq.s.;
  • environmental friendliness of concrete paving stones - when heated, the slabs do not emit toxic substances, unlike asphalt
  • on properly laid paving stones, no puddles form after rain - water is absorbed into the soil through cracks and storm drains;
  • aesthetics and decorativeness of the coating - today manufacturers offer a wide range of models of different colors, shapes and textures;
  • ease of installation - laying paving slabs with your own hands is not difficult, the main thing is to choose high-quality material and adhere to the technology;
  • The service life of paving stones is about 15 years.

The use of tiles of various shades, the play of textured surfaces, and laying in interesting patterns like mosaics will enliven the landscape of the garden and the surrounding area. In addition, working with paving stones will allow you to maximize the talent of the designer and the artistic taste of the performer.

Traditionally, paving stones are laid on a crushed stone-sand base placed directly on the ground. This option is considered simpler. In areas with high traffic or for parking, a reinforced base is required to provide reliable coverage. In these cases, it is advisable to lay the tiles on concrete.

The technology of laying paving stones on a concrete base has its own characteristics:

  • The tiles are laid out on a flat, prepared base - this ensures the stability of the finished coating. Even under the influence of regular mechanical loads, the tiles will not sag, and the paths will not lose their original configuration.
  • During installation, it is necessary to ensure water drainage and drainage so that water does not stagnate on the tile covering. If this requirement is neglected, then moisture accumulates in the seams between the tiles, and when freezing, ice particles gradually tear the finish away from the base and, as a result, individual fragments swell and split at the edges.

Important! When pouring concrete, special attention is paid to drainage. Experts recommend creating storm drains, point moisture collectors, or laying a coating with a slight slope.

Features of choosing paving stones

When planning to lay tiles with your own hands, you should have an idea of ​​what types of paving stones there are and how to choose the right facing material.

Before purchasing, you need to decide on the basic parameters:

  • slab material and purpose;
  • method of manufacturing paving slabs;
  • shape and size of paving stones;
  • quality characteristics of the tiles.

Depending on the raw materials used in production, paving tiles can be: rubber, wood, stone, clay and concrete. The choice of material is largely determined by the area of ​​use of paving stones:


Modern paving stones are produced using one of the methods: vibrocasting or vibrocompression. One method or another determines the strength characteristics of the coating.

Features of paving stones produced by vibration casting:

  • main purpose - paving areas subject to light loads;
  • insufficiently precise geometry of individual slabs;
  • clarity of the printed image on the paving stones;
  • a wide selection of different colors;
  • Great for arranging garden and country paths.

Plates made by vibration pressing:

  • used for paving sidewalks, parking lots and roads;
  • has high strength;
  • Available in simple forms;
  • limited color selection.

Most manufacturers produce paving stones in the shape of hexagons and classic paving stones. Some companies produce so-called "herringbone", "wave" and "rocket". The most convenient and versatile option is rectangular tiles. With its help, you can create patterns that imitate brickwork, “ladders” and “chess”.

Important! To work with paving slabs of complex configuration, you will need to create or order a design project.

An important selection criterion is the size of the tile. The smaller the dimensions of the individual elements, the more efficiently the load is distributed. For laying straight paths, the size of the tiles does not matter much, but for paving arched terraces it is better to use small paving stones. Circular figures are laid out with specially designed paving stones.

When purchasing, you need to check the product quality certificate and find out the main characteristics of the tile:

  • number of defrost/freeze cycles;
  • paving stone thickness (4 cm for pedestrians, more than 6 cm for bicycle paths, 7-8 cm for vehicles, 10 cm for truck traffic).

Advice. You can evaluate the quality of tiles by their sound. To do this, gently tap the tile against the tile. A ringing sound means high-quality drying and strength of the material. Deaf, on the contrary, indicates that the technology was violated during production.

Rules for paving paths with paving slabs on concrete. Expert advice.


Methods for laying paving stones on a concrete base

Paving on concrete can be done in one of the following ways: on a dry cement-sand “cushion” or on a prepared liquid mortar.

Laying tiles with your own hands (step-by-step instructions are shown in the photo).

The first method involves constructing a paving stone made of dry materials about 6 cm thick. The paving stones are placed tightly on a “cushion”, and the seams between the slabs are filled with a cement-sand mixture and watered. The procedure is repeated several times.

The second option provides durable and strong paving. However, when laying tiles on concrete mortar, the coating cannot be restored after deformation.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Tools and materials

To pave the path you will need the following materials:

  • paving stones - purchased with a small reserve;
  • curbstone;
  • crushed stone fraction 10-20;
  • sand;
  • cement;
  • water;
  • crosses for styling.

The tools you need to prepare are:

  • bayonet shovel;
  • cord;
  • concrete mixer or drill with a mixer attachment;
  • level;
  • rubber hammer;
  • Master OK;
  • grinder for cutting slabs;
  • level for horizontal control;
  • the rule is long and short;
  • country rake;
  • hard brush.

Marking and preparation of the site

Preparatory activities include:


Preparation and pouring of concrete solution

When mixing the solution, it is important to maintain exact proportions. To create a base for paving stones, take 1 part cement and 3 parts sand. The mixture should be quite liquid in consistency, reminiscent of thick sour cream.

Procedure for pouring concrete:


Important! When concreting a large area or a long path, expansion joints with a width of at least 5 cm are left every three meters.

Procedure for laying tiles

If the concrete base is properly prepared, there will be no problems with laying paving stones. Installation of paving stones begins from the curb. Laying is carried out in the direction from top to bottom in the direction of water drainage.

Apply a solution about 3 cm thick to the concrete and begin laying out the material. Paving technology is in many ways similar to laying tiles on the floor with your own hands. To maintain the same distance between the paving stones, you can use 4-5 mm plastic corners. The position of the laid tiles must be leveled with a rubber hammer. Check horizontality with a level.

Fill the gaps between the paving stones with sifted sand, and sweep away the excess with a broom. Water the finished coating with water. If necessary, re-cover the seams with sand and moisten.

Laying tiles with your own hands: step-by-step instructions. Video

The nuances of laying paving stones on an old concrete base

If there are old concrete paths in the yard, then they can be radically modernized and paved with paving stones. However, this method is acceptable for coatings that do not have significant defects.

Tile laying algorithm:

  1. Assess the condition of the coating.
  2. Remove debris, sand particles, grease stains and broken concrete fragments from the path.
  3. Remove bumps, cracks, and fill the depressions with putty.
  4. Apply tile adhesive intended for outdoor work to the surface.
  5. Lay out the paving stones.

Laying paving slabs with your own hands: video.

Paving stones in a suburban area: photo ideas

The driveway to the house is paved with paving slabs of a classic rectangular shape.

A combination of two contrasting colors of paving slabs of complex shape.

Multifaceted paving using paving stones of different colors and shapes. It is better to entrust such work to professionals.

Laconic bathroom design using stone slabs. The different widths of the tile joints emphasize the natural style and make it easier to lay tiles in the bathroom yourself.

The interesting ornament of the path adjacent to the house emphasizes the architectural style of the house and the landscape design of the suburban area.

Laying tiles with your own hands: video

Paving slabs firmly occupy a leading place among construction products used for paving on city streets, squares and individual plots. Indisputable proof of such popularity is evident in any city, town and private backyard. In this article we will look at how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base.

Most often, tiled covering is arranged:

  • on sidewalks and squares;
  • around administrative buildings, offices, shopping, sports and entertainment complexes, train stations, airports, educational institutions and other places with high traffic volumes;
  • in public parks, lawn and garden paths on private plots;
  • private car parking areas and parking lots for large equipment;
  • when improving suburban areas.

Main types of products

Depending on the manufacturing methods, the following varieties are distinguished:

  • vibrocast;
  • vibration-pressed;
  • hyperpressed;
  • polymer sand.

The composition of paving slabs usually includes sand concrete with the addition of granite chips, limestone, slates or rubber crumbs. Basalt chips are added less frequently.

  • sawn paving stones with all edges smooth;
  • sawn and split with a smooth bottom and top edge;
  • chipped, with uneven edges.

In the first two types, the flat top surface can be subjected to heat treatment, which makes it non-slip.

The most common square paving stones with sides of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 to 10 cm.

In what cases is it necessary to lay paving slabs on concrete?

The following can be used as a base for tile covering:

  • crushed stone or gravel-sand cushion;
  • concrete, reinforced with steel mesh or individual rods, composite reinforcement or vibrating fiber to increase strength.

The tiles can be laid on existing concrete screeds or on newly installed ones.

Although in the first case the work is much easier and faster, laying tiles on concrete is necessary to ensure a stable and durable coating in the following cases:

  • the presence at the work site of soils with increased susceptibility to shrinkage (recently filled embankments, silty sands, peat);
  • heaving clay soils, characterized by uneven swelling in certain areas;
  • a concrete base for paving slabs is installed when the surface is exposed to significant loads, for example, parking for a car;
  • when facing on existing solid concrete bases, when their dismantling is impractical and is highly labor-intensive (blind areas around the house, existing concrete coverings, floors in garages and outbuildings). The decision whether it is possible to lay paving slabs on concrete is made after a thorough examination of the existing old concrete pavement. Laying over old concrete allows for significant savings on building materials, protects the existing coating from further destruction and significantly improves its appearance.

Advantages and disadvantages of laying paving stones on a concrete base

The concrete base for laying paving stones has the following advantages:

  • high strength and resistance to the application of significant loads and mechanical stress;
  • durability;
  • installing tiles on a concrete base minimizes the risk of shrinkage;
  • ease of implementation, allowing you to lay paving slabs with your own hands;
  • there is no need to use complex expensive technical devices;
  • resistance of the base to chemical influences, water washout, temperature changes;
  • on a solid concrete base, the process of leveling tiles in a single plane is much easier, resulting in a clear, straight shape and a perfectly flat surface
  • absence of failures caused by poor-quality compaction of the base;
  • environmental friendliness of paving with tiles.

Existing disadvantages:

  • the technology for laying paving stones on a concrete base is more complicated than on sand and crushed stone pads;
  • the need for reliable drainage systems. Having seeped through the seams in the coating, water will remain between the concrete base and the tiles and, when freezing temperatures set in, it can swell and even split the paving stones. To avoid this, paving stones are laid with certain slopes, point water inlets are laid in the concrete, and stormwater systems are installed;
  • a concrete base for paving stones is more expensive than a simple base of crushed stone and sand;
  • If the technological process is disrupted, coloring of the concrete base may occur after the end of the first winter.

What requirements must paving slabs meet?

When using any types of products for paving, they must meet the following requirements:

  • when laying tiles outdoors, frost resistance ≥ 200 cycles;
  • compressive strength ≥ 30 MPa;
  • water absorption by weight ≤ 5%;
  • abrasion during annual operation ≤ 0.7 g/cm 2 ;
  • the purchase of products must be made from one batch, since in different ones, even from the same manufacturer, the tiles will differ in geometric dimensions and color saturation;
  • environmentally friendly cleanliness of products, when used both for external and internal work with the installation of cobblestone flooring in warehouses and utility rooms;
  • lack of porosity on the surface;
  • strict adherence to geometric dimensions with evenness of all edges;
  • absence of internal and external cracks, as well as chips;
  • naturalness and uniformity of coloring.

Technology for laying paving slabs on a concrete base

The following methods of paving on a rigid base are distinguished:

  1. A dry mixture of 1 to 5 cement with sand is poured on top of the concrete base, the thickness of such a dry solution is taken to be up to 5 cm. Due to the difficulty of creating the necessary slopes for water drainage, a slope of 2 to 5 degrees is created in the process concrete foundation installations. To prevent moisture from being retained under the tiles, pieces of polymer or asbestos pipe, 1 piece each, are placed vertically into the concrete screed. for every m2.
    After the concrete mixture has hardened, the top of the pipes is cut off at the level of the top of the concrete and the holes are filled with fine crushed stone. Laying paving stones begins directly from the curb; after laying 4 elements, a check is made to maintain the specified level using a building level. Ensuring the quality of the fit is carried out using a rubber hammer; by lightly tapping, the tile is sunk into a mixture of cement and sand or, if necessary, raised with a sprinkle of dry mixture (prance) or a cement pad. With this paving method, labor costs are significantly reduced and costs for materials and labor are saved. Laying is done in front of you, moving along an already paved surface. The downside is the need to thoroughly compact the mixture, and then the finished cladding.
    Tamping can be done with vibrating plates, and if they are not available, you can use a piece of thick, wide board. The method is most repairable, as it allows easy replacement of individual damaged tiles.
  2. For mortar, it is widely used for paving large areas. The cement-sand mortar is applied to the base in a layer of up to 3 cm per reachable area by the master and leveled using a notched trowel.
    Laying paving stones on concrete using this “wet” technology is carried out first in whole tiles, taking into account the desired pattern, all mortar is removed from unpaved areas with trowels, cut tiles are installed on fresh mortar after the base mortar has hardened under the solid tiles. Compliance with the required slopes and the flatness of the coating are checked using a level and rules.
    In all methods, the tiles are laid with equal gaps (5 mm), the resulting seams in both of the above methods are filled with grit or simply sifted quartz sand and spilled with water. Movement of people on the laid surface is allowed no earlier than after 24 hours.
  3. Glue the tiles to the concrete using a special construction adhesive. With this method, it is possible to create the necessary slopes only on a concrete base, since the glue is spread in a very thin layer (from 5 to 10 mm) on the surface of a small area (≤ 1 m2), since the hardening time indicated on the attached instructions application, small. For the same reason, paving slab adhesive is diluted in small quantities to avoid hardening.
    The seams are filled with the same glue or you can use a garter, as in previous cases. Cured special construction adhesive provides a strong and reliable connection with concrete, so this method is used quite often, but it will not be possible to replace a damaged element without its final breaking.

Step-by-step instructions for paving on a concrete base

Composition and sequence of work:

  1. Laying out areas and paths on which paving is planned, securing the markings with wooden or metal pegs. The boundaries between the pegs are covered with lime or chalk.
  2. Removal of the fertile soil layer with the construction of an earthen trough, taking into account the location of reinforced concrete curbs or curbs. The depth of the trench under the curbs depends on their height; the top of the curb, to ensure drainage from the paving surface, should be 2 cm below the top of the tiles and rise above the level of the lawn.
  3. Installation of curbs or curbs. A strong cord is pulled onto the hammered pegs at the height of the curbs, taking into account the required longitudinal slopes. To collect water flowing from the tiled surface, it is recommended to provide trenches for laying storm system trays close to the curbs. Reinforced concrete elements are installed in trenches on a compacted sand base with a small layer of lean concrete or mortar laid on top of it. The elements are fixed with wooden pegs and pouring concrete mixture.
  4. Construction of a concrete base. The soil in the earth trough is carefully compacted and covered with geotextile to prevent weed germination. Concrete is laid on a compacted bed of sand or crushed stone ≥ 10 cm thick.

In some cases, curbs are installed by craftsmen after the base has been concreted. This option, if you do the work yourself, is not recommended. To protect the edges of the platforms from soil shedding and create a concrete base with smooth edges, formwork is installed from boards 40 mm thick, which will have to be carefully secured. If the curbs are installed immediately, they themselves will serve as formwork. The advantages of this option:

  • there are no costs for purchasing materials for formwork;
  • time is saved on its installation and subsequent disassembly;
  • the concrete mixture will be poured without seeping into the cracks between the boards;
  • additional fixation of curbs in the required position.

Concrete is poured no earlier than 24 hours after fixing the curbs. The break can be used for reinforcement (paths that will not be accessed by vehicles and heavy equipment do not need to be reinforced). The concrete thickness is assumed to be 15 cm in the absence of reinforcement and 20 cm in the presence of reinforcement. In the presence of moving heaving soils, the thickness can increase to 40 cm.

Reinforcement is carried out with meshes connected from steel or composite reinforcement with a diameter of up to 10 mm and cells from 15 to 20 cm. The meshes are located at the top, at a distance of about 5 cm from the top of the concrete, with laying on concrete pads. You can perform the pouring in two stages: lay a layer of concrete about 10 cm, carefully level it, lay nets on the fresh concrete and pour the concrete mixture to the required level.

When pouring large areas, every 3 m it is necessary to install expansion joints from boards laid over the entire thickness of the concrete. On paths, such seams are made every 6 m. Before hardening begins, the concrete boards are removed, and the resulting seams are filled with hot bitumen.

  1. After what time can I lay tiles? Concrete will gain the minimum required strength in about three days, so you can’t start work earlier. A suitable laying method is selected; if traffic on the pavement is high or it is planned that vehicles and heavy technical equipment will enter it, then it is preferable to paving with tiles using cement mortars or construction adhesives. If there are obstacles in the lining area (sewage hatches, flower beds, drainage holes, etc.), they are lined with whole tiles.
    Before completing the work, the final design of the junctions of the required configurations is carried out with cutting of the tiles using a grinder with a concrete wheel or a circular saw. Upon completion of installation, the joints are filled. You should not walk on the paved surface for about 3 days to avoid damaging the edges of the tiles. If necessary, the required passages can be carried out by laying sheets of plywood over the paving surface.
  2. Finally, after 3 days, construction debris and debris are swept away, after which the entire surface is washed with water under pressure from a hose.

Laying tiles on a concrete blind area

Blind areas around buildings are usually made up to 1 m wide. First, the condition of the blind area is examined, after which the following operations are performed:

  • the concrete is cleaned of dirt, existing cracks in it are cut out;
  • the entire surface of the old concrete is filled with a 2 cm layer of cement mortar;
  • the boundaries of future paving are marked with driving in pegs;
  • The location of the curb along the edge of the site is planned; the top of the curb should be located taking into account the slope away from the building of 2 cm for each linear line. m. and below the top for paving stones by 3 cm. Then a mark is marked on the base equal to the sum of the height of the tile and the thickness of the preparation for it, to which a strong cord is attached, the second end is tied to pegs at the planned height of the top of the curb;
  • according to the arranged markings, a trench is developed for the curbs, then an earthen trough is developed between the edge of the blind area and the curbs;
  • Then the work is carried out in the order described above when installing a concrete base and paving with paving slabs.

When performing the work yourself, the cost of paving is reduced by at least 2 times. Additionally, you can read technical literature or consult with specialists about how to properly lay paving slabs; this will help avoid damage to expensive materials and ensure the durability of the coating.