How to stop fattening of tomatoes in a greenhouse. Why do tomatoes begin to fatten in a greenhouse?

Gardeners with little practical experience, having heard that tomatoes can fatten during the growing season, do not always understand what the essence of this phenomenon is and how to recognize it.

Sometimes tomato seedlings planted in a greenhouse or garden bed develop intensively, growing thick stems and powerful leaves, and it would seem that a large harvest should be expected. However, in reality everything turns out to be the opposite.

How to understand that tomatoes are fattening

The phenomenon of fatliquoring is more common in greenhouse tomatoes. Healthy-looking and very strong plants suddenly stop developing. Their leaves become large and dense, often curling. The seedling looks completely healthy, the leaves and stems are thick and have an intense green color.

Flowering may not occur at all or is far from abundant. Sometimes plants enter the flowering phase, but... In addition, fattening tomatoes have other characteristic features:

the tomato bushes look super strong;
plants lose immunity and become susceptible to various diseases;
the leaves change their usual color to dark green;
the plant rapidly grows new stepsons;
the stems become very thick;
tomatoes develop a very strong root system;
fruits appear rarely on the bushes and they are small;
tomatoes ripen later than usual;
The harvest from such plants is very meager.

Why fattening tomatoes are bad

Fattening tomato bushes do not bring any tangible benefit to their owners. Of the advantages of this phenomenon, only one can be noted - fattening plants look impressive. It seems that they received everything they needed for their growth and development: growing regime, fertilizing, watering, sufficient sunlight.

But such plants have many more disadvantages:

Fertilizers, protective equipment, and seeds, which are expensive, were spent on cultivation;
take up space in the greenhouse and garden;
They waste time in caring for them;
there is no tomato harvest or it is very low;
the quality of the fruit leaves much to be desired;
The costs of gardeners are not repaid by the harvest.

What is the reason for fattening?

Every phenomenon that occurs with tomatoes during the growing season, including negative changes, has its own reasons. Fatliquoring of tomatoes, or as it is also called, sprouting, is no exception. It is most typical for tomato hybrids grown in too favorable conditions. Determinate tomatoes with a short raceme are less susceptible to this disease.

Now let’s try to focus our attention on the main reasons that cause tomatoes to fatten. Here is their list:

Too much fertilizer

Greenhouse tomatoes are more likely than usual to become fattened when they are overfed with organic fertilizers, especially when they are applied before the flowering phase. Manure, composts and green fertilizers contain a large amount of nitrogen, which provokes unlimited growth of the vegetative mass of the plant.

High air humidity

Overgrowth can be promoted by too high air humidity caused by frequent and abundant watering.

Lack of light

Cloudy weather or insufficient artificial lighting can also cause tomatoes to fatten. Due to lack of light, tomatoes, especially southern varieties of tomatoes, do not lay flower buds or their flowers do not form an ovary.

High stocking density

If there are more plants per square meter than the recommended norm, it is quite possible to expect that the tomato bushes will begin to fatten.

Not optimal temperature

Tomato plantings are negatively affected by both increased temperature and decreased temperature. Moreover, it is important to maintain the recommended temperature standards during the day and at night.

How to bring a fattening plant back to normal condition

Many novice vegetable growers, faced with fattening of tomatoes, think about how to correct the situation and return plant development to normal. And that’s right - this undesirable phenomenon can and should be fought.

If the growth of shoots progresses, the following measures must be taken:

As we have already noted, sometimes dense planting of greenhouse tomato bushes when their lighting level is insufficient leads to fattening. The situation can be corrected by applying the following agrotechnical measures:

By following these steps, you can count on correcting the current situation.

Preventive measures against fat gain

In the previous section, we looked in detail at what should be done to correct the fattening situation. But it’s even better to take preventive measures in advance to prevent it. Nitrogen fertilizers act like a balm on tomato bushes. They adore manured soil even more.

Important! It is nitrogen that is responsible for the uncontrolled growth of green mass and an obstacle to the formation of fruits. Tomatoes that received excess nitrogen fertilizers during the growing season, even with optimal nutrition area and good lighting, will never increase their normal fruit yield.

Therefore, you need to apply a minimum amount of nitrogen fertilizer to tomatoes and do this only at the beginning of the growing season.

In addition, the following preventive measures should be taken:

On the eve of planting tomatoes, wood ash is added to the soil. It contains quite a lot of potassium. Such feeding will not allow seedlings to fatten in the early stages of growth and development.
In the first two weeks after planting, the seedlings are prone to fattening. During this period, it is unacceptable to overwater the tomatoes and apply large doses of fertilizers.
Tomatoes should be watered no more than 2 times a week. And when tomatoes enter the flowering phase, you need to water the bushes even less often.
To determine soil moisture, you need to take a handful of soil from a depth of 15 cm and squeeze it in your palm. Then raise your fist to chest level and unclench your fingers. If a fallen lump of earth disintegrates into small particles, this means it’s time to water the tomatoes. If the soil lump does not disintegrate, but only cracks slightly, then you need to wait a while with watering.
To save irrigation water and reduce the number of waterings, it is recommended to mulch the soil surface. Mulch will reduce the evaporation of moisture from the upper horizons of the soil, and it will be possible to water less often.

In order to avoid fattening on tomato bushes, varieties that are resistant to this undesirable phenomenon should be grown. Tomato varieties that have a short flower raceme, as well as those tomatoes that are classified as determinate, almost never fatten. When growing tomatoes, create the right conditions. If, when examining the bushes, you find the first signs of fattening, immediately fight this phenomenon using the list of measures discussed in this article.

Violation of the conditions for keeping tomatoes in a greenhouse leads to fattening of the plants. It is associated with abundant plant growth with the simultaneous cessation or extinction of flowering and fruiting, leading to a reduction in yield from the bush. If fattening of tomatoes has begun, you need to decide what to do as soon as possible.

General characteristics of the plant

Tomato is a vegetable widely distributed in Russia, which came from South America. Taking into account the peculiarities of the climate in the region, varieties are selected for cultivation in open or closed ground.For greenhouses, varieties are mainly selected that do not require pollination by insects.. Depending on the height of the bush, a tomato can be :

Indeterminate.

Determinant.

The first include tall bushes reaching 3 meters. They are branched, the first ovary is formed above the 9-10th leaf. Varieties are mid- and even late-ripening. They need frequent grooming.

Determinate varieties are low-growing. Usually the bush has one main stem and several poorly developed branches. The varieties are considered early ripening. Their pinching is not necessary, but the formation of a bush with 5 clusters speeds up the process of fruit ripening.

Signs of fattening of tomatoes

Well-growing tomato bushes delight the gardener's eye, but sometimes it turns out that after flowering few ovaries are formed. It turns out that tomatoes fatten; Everyone should know what to do about this, how to identify signs of the disease at an early stage:

the bush of the plant is healthy and strong, while the upper leaves are darker and subject to curling;

thick stems and a branched superficial root system develop;

there is scanty flowering or it is completely absent, the flowers stop setting;

the flowers that appear fall off;

the fruits do not reach the stated size and ripen slowly.

Fatliquoring of tomatoes

The presence of all these signs indicates the process of fatliquoring of tomatoes.

Reasons for fattening tomatoes

A number of factors influence the fattening of tomatoes grown indoors:

Abundant watering within 2 weeks after planting seedlings in the ground leads to the formation of a branched root system. As a result, the plant receives abundant nutrition and directs it into the growth of tops;

poor lighting of the plant leads to its rapid growth and elongation of the tops; the bush tries to obtain the required amount of light from the mass of leaves. Most often observed when bushes are planted too densely;

violation of feeding schemes. Excess fertilizers, especially nitrogen ones, lead to a sharp increase in leaf mass. This plant has no strength left to flower. A similar situation is observed with excess manure;

lack of a constant microclimate in the enclosed greenhouse or violations in ventilation techniques, fluctuations in soil humidity and air temperature.

If tomatoes are fattening in a greenhouse, what should you do? Check for the presence of all of these signs, although identifying a specific cause can be difficult.

Watering tomatoes should not be done more than 1-2 times a week. Feeding is done in stages. A week after planting, nitrogen fertilizers are applied.

The microclimate of a greenhouse depends on a number of circumstances. This includes the location of its installation (preference is given to an area that is evenly illuminated throughout the day), and compliance with the planting scheme for the selected variety. Densely located bushes of tall plants will stretch upward, and below will be poorly ventilated due to their crowding.

What to do if tomatoes are fattening in the greenhouse

The steps taken will depend on whether the cause of fattening has been accurately determined. First of all, you should do the following:

Stop watering the plants for 1-2 weeks, preventing the soil from completely drying out. If necessary, water with warm water under the root in small volumes.

Ventilate the greenhouse regularly.

Analyze the fertilizing scheme, reduce the nitrogen content in the soil.

Remove some leaves.

Maintain the temperature in the greenhouse at night 22-23 degrees, during the day - no more than 25.

The result of the measures taken should be the growth of buds and fruits on the ovaries.

If tomatoes become fattened due to excess nitrogen content in the soil, it is clear what to do - reduce its amount by adding phosphate or superphosphate. Foliar feeding using superphosphate should be carried out in the evening or before 9 am. Phosphorus has a beneficial effect on new ovaries while simultaneously stopping the growth of green mass.The addition of potassium and magnesium will stop fattening. Magnesium is contained in superphosphate. Potassium is included in fertilizers such as potassium monophosphate or ash in infusion.

Growing tomatoes

What to do if tomatoes fatten in a greenhouse? Their stepsoning is useful. It is carried out in accordance with the recommendations given for the care of a specific variety, taking into account the reasons for fattening. It is important to remember the rules of stepsoning :

the first pinching is carried out during the flowering of the first tassel;

it is better if the removed branch does not reach 5 cm;

all stepsons below the first inflorescence on the bush must be removed;

stepsons need to be removed in the morning;

It is worth watering the plant after pinching no earlier than 10-12 hours;

pinching the top is carried out in August in order to stop the growth of the bush and the ripening of the fruits.

On a note! Stepchildren are usually called shoots that grow between the trunk and branch of a bush. They take up a lot of the plant’s energy, grow profusely, and prevent the ripening of a bountiful harvest.

You cannot start planting the plant urgently. No more than 2-3 branches should be removed per day, otherwise the bush may die or completely stop bearing fruit.

Additionally, the plant should be pollinated. For this purpose, the bush is lightly shaken in the flowering area in the daytime before the heat begins.

Prevention

It’s quite easy to prevent your tomato bushes from becoming fat. This requires soil care before planting seedlings: wood ash is added, which will enrich the soil with potassium. The soil is subjected to deep digging to improve the penetration of moisture and air.

A predisposition to fattening occurs in the first 2 weeks after planting seedlings, which is why during this period you should not water the plant abundantly or apply excess fertilizer. You can determine the need for watering using a simple experiment. A lump of earth is taken from a depth of 15-18 cm and squeezed in the palm of your hand. When a lump forms, watering is not required, but when it crumbles, it is necessary.

Advice! Mulching the soil helps retain moisture and prevent the soil from drying out. It also helps reduce the need for watering.

Conclusions:

Fattening of tomatoes is caused by excessive fertilizer and watering of tomato bushes, and insufficient greenhouse microclimate.

The first sign of fattening is the process of leaves curling and darkening on top.

The nitrogen content can be reduced by adding superphosphate.

Indeterminate tomato bushes that have been fattened require pinching, proper watering and artificial pollination by shaking the inflorescences.

By understanding how you can stop fattening of tomatoes and taking timely measures, you can reap a good harvest.

If tomatoes are fattening in a greenhouse, what should you do? This question is very often asked by summer residents when they notice that after flowering the ovary does not appear, while the stems of the plants thicken, the leaves become juicier and darker and begin to curl. The fatliquoring process can be observed in tomatoes both in open ground and in a greenhouse. But in greenhouses, plants grow fat more often.

First, you need to decide why tomatoes still fatten. Most often, plants behave this way when environmental conditions are very favorable for their growth. It would seem that there should be a lot of ovaries. But it doesn’t always turn out that way.

Let's look at the main reasons why this happens:

If you water them frequently in the first six months after planting tomatoes in a greenhouse, this can help develop a very strong shallow root system. So all the energy will be spent on the development of roots, and at the same time on the formation of stems and leaves. The plant’s resistance to disease will decrease, and the amount of ovary will be minimal.
Insufficient lighting and excess air humidity are also common reasons why tomatoes begin to fatten. This often happens in greenhouses where plants are planted very close to each other. But there are cases when, even at a far distance from each other, tomatoes still fatten for the same reason.
Excess nitrogen fertilizers in the soil quite often causes tomatoes to become fattened. The fact is that such fertilizing helps to increase the green mass of the plant, while very little energy and nutrients will remain for the formation of fruits.
Sometimes leaves may begin to curl when there is excess manure in the soil. It is especially dangerous to overfeed tomatoes during the active growing season. At this time, the leaves are already growing well, but if you add manure to the soil, the process will speed up significantly. But the tomatoes will bloom poorly, there will be very few fruits, and they will appear rarely.

Why tomatoes fatten (video)

Fight against fat gain

Experts advise dealing with the problem of fattening of tomatoes based on the identified cause. But it’s not always possible to find out exactly why tomatoes fatten. Therefore, we should consider in more detail all the main ways to combat this, although not dangerous, but rather unpleasant problem for every gardener.

Proper feeding

First of all, it is necessary to draw up the correct feeding schedule for tomatoes. This will largely depend on the specific varieties, since there are species that fatten even from a small amount of fertilizer. Some tomatoes, even with an excess of nutrients, can produce a large harvest throughout the season.

It is recommended to apply potassium fertilizers to the soil extremely carefully. It is best to do this during the growing season, when about 5-6 clusters have already formed on the plant. The ideal time is flowering. Then the fertilizer will only benefit the tomatoes.

If fattening of tomatoes has already been noticed, you can try to correct the situation with fertilizers. Periodic feeding during the fattening period with preparations containing large quantities of magnesium gives excellent results. Such fertilizer will help restore the balance of nutrients in the soil and prevent leaf curling and active growth of shoots.

During fatliquoring, it is also recommended to spray the green mass with phosphorus fertilizers. For this, an ordinary superphosphate extract is used. In parallel with spraying, you can also feed the soil a little. But the amount of solution should not exceed 1 liter per bush if we are talking about adult plants. Such feeding will promote the formation of the ovary, while somewhat slowing down the growth of shoots and leaves.

Under no circumstances should you use nitrogen fertilizers for tomatoes, as they will promote active growth of the root system.

This type of feeding is excellent for very small tomato seedlings, when the root system is still very weak and not fully formed. This will only harm adult tomatoes, as it will reduce the amount of ovary, if not prevent its appearance.

Providing conditions for the formation of the ovary

To prevent tomatoes from fattening, the microclimate in the greenhouse should be adjusted. To do this, it is necessary to provide good access to sunlight, slightly increase the ambient temperature and reduce watering. Ideally, in a greenhouse where mature tomatoes grow, the air temperature at night should be around 24°C in summer, and around 26-27°C during the day. You should also ventilate the greenhouse as often as possible.

Some varieties of tomatoes do not tolerate direct sunlight, so it is best to use diffused lighting. In this case, even high humidity will not harm, since the risk of burns on leaves and fruits will be minimized.

To prevent fattening of tomatoes, gardeners must constantly ensure that the lower parts of the plants have a minimum number of leaves. As a rule, all lower shoots should be removed using pruning shears. This may somewhat worsen the appearance of the tomatoes if you look at them from the outside (especially in tall varieties), but it will contribute to the active development of fruits from the flowers.

It is necessary to remove foliage at least once a week so that the tomatoes spend as little energy as possible on the formation of unnecessary shoots. In this case, you need to periodically shake the bushes, trying not to damage or break them. This is done for a more active process of flower pollination.

Why tomatoes fatten and what to do (video)

So, now it has become more clear what to do if the tomatoes in the greenhouse begin to fatten, while producing little fruit. The described tips can be applied not only to greenhouse plants, but also to tomatoes growing in open ground or even in pots at home.

No similar entries found.

Very often, tomatoes are planted on beds in which a lot of organic fertilizers (manure), as well as nitrogen mineral fertilizers, have been added. In this case, an unusual phenomenon is observed on tomato plants: at the top of the flower cluster of tall tomatoes, at the moment of flowering and fruit formation, a new shoot begins to grow.

The fruits, of course, ripen, but the plant spends a lot of energy on these shoots. Should they be removed and why does this happen? The growth of shoots is one of the types of fattening of tomatoes.

This physiological disease is typical for indeterminate varieties and hybrids with a long flower raceme, especially if they are grown in well-filled beds with manure or humus. But in addition to excess nitrogen, growth is provoked by high air humidity (with frequent watering), lack of light and too much fertilizing when growing seedlings.

Determinate varieties and tomatoes with a short raceme practically do not suffer from this disease. If growth nevertheless begins, it is necessary to pinch the brush, leaving from 5 to 7 fruits, since the rest will not have time to fill up anyway.

It is necessary to reduce watering, feed the bushes with potassium (ash) or phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Another picture often observed in greenhouses: The tomato's upper leaves are constantly curled, it grows rapidly, the plant itself is powerful, the stems are thick, the leaves are dark green, large, and juicy.

This happens from abundant watering, when applying large doses of nitrogen or organic fertilizers. Sometimes this indicates a lack of light due to too dense plantings. If the plant still begins to fatten, put it on a diet:

immediately stop watering for a week; make foliar feeding with phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate extract - 3 tbsp per 10 l of water); At the same time, feed the plant at the roots with the same extract (1 liter of solution per plant is required after watering);exclude nitrogen from fertilizing; increase night temperatures to 22-24°C, and daytime temperatures to 25-26°C (do not open doors or windows in the greenhouse); You can remove some of the leaves so that the plants get more sunlight, but no more than one and a half leaves per plant, since this is an injury for the plant, from which they will have to recover for some time. Remove the leaf that blocks the light on the flower brush.

Phosphate fertilizer contains almost 50% phosphorus, 30-40% potassium, and the elements are in instant form. Therefore, you can spray it immediately after dilution with water, without settling. Foliar feeding is an ambulance.

How to increase the yield of tomatoes in a greenhouse - what does it depend on?

Help a novice gardener with advice. For some reason I can’t seem to grow a good crop of tomatoes. The bushes are powerful, dark green, and there are almost no flowers.

Or the fruits on the first cluster show off, but on the second the tomatoes are small and grow very poorly. Probably nothing will ever grow for me. Best regards, Svetlana. Hello Svetlana! Don't panic and don't lose optimism.

You can learn anything if you really want to. Over time, you will be able to determine by one type what is happening to your tomatoes and learn to deal with the reasons for this plant behavior. Take note of some of our tips.

Then you will definitely have a rich harvest.

Plants are “fatten” - what to do?

Judging by the description of the problem, we can say that your tomatoes have begun to “fatten.” This term is used by experienced gardeners when the plant grows quickly, has permanently curled upper leaves, thick stems, and dark green coloring of large juicy leaves.

These signs indicate that all the strength of the plant goes into the greenery and there is no need to expect a harvest. After all, very weak flower clusters are formed, on which there are a small number of flowers. How to deal with this phenomenon? We eliminate the causes of “deviations in development”, for which we carry out the following activities:

we stop watering the tomatoes for 7-10 days; we do not open the windows and doors in the greenhouse in order to increase the temperature during the day to 25-26 ° C, and at night - to 22-24 ° C; we carry out forced pollination of flowers, for which purpose in a warm dry weather, between 11 and 13 o'clock, shake the flower brushes with your hands; to delay growth, we apply root feeding, for which we take 3 tbsp. spoons of superphosphate and dissolve them in 10 liters of water (pour 1 liter of the prepared solution under each plant).

Important! After such an “attack”, your tomatoes will begin to develop in the right direction. Productivity will definitely increase.

How to get a harvest from the second and subsequent brushes?

Try removing browned tomatoes from the first bunch without waiting for them to turn red. After this, water the plants and watch how the fruits on the next tassels begin to grow before your eyes. Place the harvested tomatoes in a sunny place and within two days they will become red and ripe.

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If tomatoes are fattening

Should they be removed and why does this happen?

The growth of shoots is one of the types of fattening of tomatoes. This physiological disease is typical for indeterminate varieties and hybrids with a long flower raceme, especially if they are grown in well-filled beds with manure or humus.

But in addition to excess nitrogen, growth is provoked by high air humidity (with frequent watering), lack of light and too much fertilizing during the growing of seedlings. Determinate varieties and tomatoes with a short brush practically do not suffer from this disease. If the growth does begin, it is necessary to pinch the brush, leaving from 5 to 7 fruits, since the rest will not have time to fill anyway. It is necessary to reduce watering, feed the bushes with potassium (ash) or phosphorus-potassium fertilizer. Another picture often observed in greenhouses: tomato upper leaves are constantly curled, rapid growth is underway, the plant itself is powerful, the stems are thick, the leaves are dark green, large, juicy .

This is also fattening. Such a plant will not produce a harvest, since everything goes into the vegetative mass, into the greenery. It develops a very weak flower raceme with a small number of flowers or no flowers at all.

This happens from abundant watering, when applying large doses of nitrogen or organic fertilizers. Sometimes this indicates a lack of light due to too dense plantings.

If the plant still begins to fatten, put it on a diet:

immediately stop watering for a week; apply foliar fertilizing with phosphorus fertilizer (superphosphate extract - 3 tablespoons per 10 liters of water); at the same time feed the plant at the root with the same extract (1 liter of solution per plant is required after watering); exclude nitrogen from the composition fertilizing; increase night temperatures to 22-24°C, and daytime temperatures to 25-26°C (do not open doors and vents in the greenhouse); you can remove some of the leaves so that the plants get more sunlight, but no more than one and a half leaves per plant, since this is an injury to the plant from which they will have to recover for some time. Remove the leaf that blocks the light on the flower brush.

Phosphate fertilizer contains almost 50% phosphorus, 30-40% potassium, and the elements are in instant form. Therefore, you can spray it with water immediately after dilution, without settling. Foliar feeding is an ambulance.

And in order to consolidate the result, it is necessary to do root feeding. It is necessary to retard plant growth. Dear readers, leave your tips and recommendations in the comments!

Signs of fattening tomatoes

From the outside, the tomato bush looks powerful, well-developed, the leaves are dark green and juicy, and the upper leaves suddenly began to curl - all this indicates that the tomato bush has begun to fatten, in the words of a gardener. Don’t expect a good harvest from such a tomato bush, since everything on the bush goes into greens, into vegetative mass, and not into fruits. The flower raceme will be underdeveloped with a small number of flowers.

There are several factors why this could happen:

Application of large doses of nitrogen and organic fertilizers - excessive watering (it is better to water the soil less frequently, but more abundantly up to 50 cm) - insufficient illumination The situation can be corrected: exclude watering for 5-8 days, increase the temperature during the day to 25 degrees, and at night to 22-24 degrees. for a few days (for tomatoes in a greenhouse This can be done simply - do not ventilate, do not open the windows). You can also carry out manual pollination of tomatoes either by shaking a flower brush or with special puffs.

This should be done in warm, dry weather and preferably from 11 a.m. to lunch. The next stage is that we need to restrain the growth of the tomato bush. To do this, you need root fertilizing with superphosphate (for 10 liters - 3 tablespoons of fertilizer) at the rate of 1 liter for each plant.

The plant will correct itself in a short time. It happens that some tomato bushes have leaves directed upward at an acute angle. The flowers of such tomatoes often fall off and the fruits are very small.

The leaves do not curl - this is a sign that the tomatoes, on the contrary, do not have enough watering, the ground under them is dry and hot. Urgently needs to be ventilated tomatoes in a greenhouse, lower the temperature and naturally water the plant. A normally developing tomato bush has bright yellow and large flowers, they never fall off and there are a large number of them on the flower cluster.

The leaves curl a little at night and straighten out during the day. It happens that the tomatoes on the second and third clusters fill very poorly, but on the first cluster the development goes well. To do this, you need to harvest from the first bunch, without waiting for the fruits to fully ripen, after which the flowering will improve and the rest of the tomatoes will grow faster.

Brown tomatoes will ripen in a sunny place in two days. After harvesting, you need to water the tomatoes with 10-12 liters per 1 sq.m. There is no need to trim leaves and shoots; the temperature for tomatoes in the greenhouse should be reduced to 17 degrees. by ventilation, especially at night.

Under these conditions, the formation occurs faster than subsequent tomato clusters and ripening will be earlier. In abnormal heat, the gardener who grows tomatoes in the open ground, and not in a greenhouse, wins, since the temperature is tomatoes in a greenhouse During the day it reaches + 60 degrees. and here opening the windows will not help, you need to disassemble the film structure completely. See you on the pages of my blog! I wish you success! And for dessert, an unusual video: a 3D projection on a building - very interesting. You may be interested in the following articles:

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In previous posts it was mentioned that it is extremely undesirable to overfeed tomato plants with nitrogen, because instead of balanced development there will be a bias towards vegetative growth. In other words, the plant fattens and actively grows green mass, fatty stems and leaves.

At the same time, the setting of the harvest is greatly delayed, or rather delayed. How can you help tomato plants if you have already overfed them, the seedlings are fatty, the leaves curl and other signs of excess nitrogen. If the seedlings were overfed even before planting in a greenhouse or open ground, then in principle it's not that scary - it's just not worth refueling strongly the bed with nitrogen, but on the contrary add more potassium and phosphorus. It will be very good to add ash, which, in addition to potassium, contains a lot of microelements, this will help the tomatoes “digest” nitrogen faster. Leaves of a beautiful, emerald color curling towards the bottom are the first sign of excess nitrogen and a reason to stop fertilizing with nitrogen fertilizer. But here’s what to do if you’re already in were the tomatoes in the greenhouse overfed, for example with bird droppings or, even worse, with fresh manure? (Yes, this happens, and not rarely).

In theory, you should water the beds properly. Nitrogen is a mobile element and is washed out quickly, especially on sandy soil. The downside is that tomatoes do not like being in damp conditions, so this operation cannot be repeated often.

It is necessary to water on a warm, preferably hot and sunny day, in the morning, and properly, at least 10 liters for each bush. On clay soil, I would not recommend doing such watering. The second way to “calm down” excessive growth and make tomatoes think about reproducing offspring is to break off 2-3 large lower leaves at once, you can even break off 1 leaf located closer to the top.

The product is clearly stressful, and your tomato will, in a panic, stop pushing out the vegetative mass and start laying fruits. To speed up the consumption of nitrogen by the tomato plant, you can not temporarily remove several stepsons, which under normal conditions would have to be removed. Well, there is another option so that think about it. Sawdust introduced into the ground consumes a lot of nitrogen when rotting.

Therefore, when adding sawdust to improve the soil, it is strongly recommended to water it with urea. All that remains is to figure out how to add sawdust under the already planted bushes ;-). If mulching with sawdust gives results, it will be in a month or later, and this is a little late.