How to make a well. How to make a water well with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

Have you decided to build a well on your own property to provide your home and family with enough clean water? However, were you shocked by the amount it would cost to drill it? Agree that this event, although quite expensive, is extremely necessary.

The high cost naturally forces one to look for an alternative to the services of drillers. We will tell you how to drill a well with your own hands. We will help you understand the peculiarities of excavation and arrangement of a water source - this is a completely feasible task for those who are not afraid of hard work.

The article discusses different methods of constructing a well. After reading them, you will understand whether you can perform all the necessary operations. To better assimilate the information provided, the article is supplied with step-by-step photos and videos that document the process of drilling and making drilling tools at home.

Before starting drilling work, you should study the composition of the soil on the site in order to at least roughly imagine your future well.

Depending on the characteristics of the aquifer, three types of wells are distinguished:

Abyssinian well;
filter well;
artesian well.

The Abyssinian well (or needle well) can be installed almost everywhere. They break it where the aquifer lies relatively close to the surface and is confined to sand.

To drill it, they use driving technology, which is not suitable for constructing other types of wells. All work can usually be completed within one business day.

This diagram allows you to study the design features of various wells in order to better understand their drilling technology and choose the appropriate method (click to enlarge)

But the flow rate of such wells is small. To provide the house and site with enough water, sometimes it makes sense to make two such wells on the site. The compact dimensions of the equipment make it possible to install such a well directly in the basement without any problems.

Filter wells, which are also called “sand” wells, are created on soils where the aquifer lies relatively shallow - up to 35 meters.

These are usually sandy soils that lend themselves well to drilling. The depth of the filter well usually varies between 20-30 meters.

When drilling an Abyssinian well, first use a narrow auger drill to get through the hard ground and reach the quicksand

The hose is not lowered into such a well; its role is played by the narrow pipe itself. The pump is installed directly on the top of the Abyssinian well.

The casing pipe, which is also the shaft of the excavation, is extended in sections of 1-3 meters, and the threaded connections are carefully sealed using winding and silicone sealant. Its compact dimensions make it possible to install such a well even in the basement of a private house, so as not to take up space on the site.

The Abyssinian well is also called a needle well, since the casing pipe with a filter tip actually resembles a needle. The threaded connections of such a pipe should be carefully sealed

To make a needle well filter, a series of holes with a diameter of about 10 mm are made on the bottom of the pipe. The perforated area is covered from the outside with a layer of special galloon-weave metal mesh. Such a filter will reliably prevent fine sand from entering the well.

When figuring out how to drill a needle well yourself, close attention should be paid to the method of driving a string of narrow casing pipes. This operation can be performed using a barbell or headstock. A long metal rod is used as a rod, which is gradually increased as it descends along with the casing.

The impacts of the rod during operation fall on the tip. At the same time, the pipe connections also experience additional stress and may become deformed. Sometimes, with strong impacts, the coupling connection can simply break during the driving process, and this is unacceptable. The headstock is a weight with a hole.

A special head is placed on the upper end of the casing pipe, which is struck in order to drive the pipe to the required depth. With this method of driving, the load is distributed more evenly, but the integrity of the connections is still at risk. Therefore, only high-quality materials should be used to drill an Abyssinian well.

In this case, only a threaded connection that is coaxial with the center of the pipe is appropriate. This type of thread can only be made correctly on a lathe. A broken pipe will cause a lot of trouble for the foreman, since a piece of column stuck in the ground is almost impossible to pull out.

The work will have to start all over again, and costs will increase significantly. But if for some reason it was not possible to drill an Abyssinian well, almost all materials can be reused.

Manufacturing of drilling tools

As mentioned earlier, drilling devices can be made independently, borrowed from friends, or purchased industrially produced products.

Sometimes a drilling rig can be rented. However, the goal of do-it-yourself drilling is usually to keep costs as low as possible. The easiest way to do drilling cheaply is to do it.

The diagram shows the structure of various drilling tools. Using a chisel, particularly hard soil can be loosened, and then it is removed with a drill, bailer or other device

Option #1 - spiral and spoon drill

Hand drilling can be done with a twist or spoon drill. To make a spiral model, take a thick, pointed rod to which knives are welded. They can be made from a steel disk cut in half. The edge of the disk is sharpened, and then the knives are welded to the base at a distance of about 200 mm from its edge.

A self-made auger drill can be of different designs. Its obligatory elements are knives with pointed edges and a chisel installed at the bottom

Knives should be positioned at an angle to the horizontal. An angle of about 20 degrees is considered optimal. Both knives are placed opposite each other. Of course, the diameter of the drill should not exceed the diameter of the casing pipe. Typically a disc with a diameter of about 100 mm is suitable. The knives of the finished drill should be sharpened sharply, this will make drilling easier and faster.

Another version of the twist drill can be made from a rod and a strip of tool steel. The width of the strip can vary between 100-150 mm.

The steel should be heated and coiled, hardened, and then welded to the base. In this case, the distance between the turns of the spiral should be equal to the width of the strip from which it is made. The edge of the spiral is carefully sharpened. It is worth noting that it is not easy to make such a drill at home.

A spiral auger for drilling can be made from a pipe and a steel strip, however, it is not always easy to correctly roll the tape into a spiral, weld and harden the tool at home

To make a spoon drill you will need a metal cylinder. In self-production conditions, the easiest way is to use a pipe of a suitable diameter, for example a 108 mm steel pipe.

The length of the product should be about 70 cm; a longer device will be difficult to work with. A long and narrow slot, vertical or spiral-shaped, should be made on this body.

The easiest way to make a homemade spoon drill is from a piece of pipe of a suitable diameter. The bottom edge is folded and sharpened, and a hole is made along the body for cleaning the drill

Two spoon-shaped knives are mounted in the lower part of the body, the cutting edge of which is sharpened. As a result, the soil is destroyed by both the horizontal and vertical edges of the drill.

The loosened rock enters the drill cavity. It is then removed and cleaned through the slot. In addition to the knives, a drill is welded at the bottom of the drill along the axis of the device. The diameter of the hole made by such a drill will be slightly larger than the device itself.

Drilling a well for water is complex and difficult, but interesting and exciting work. And, today, the most affordable way to establish an independent water supply: at the current cost of drinking water the costs of independent drilling, equipment and well development pay off in less than a year. Unless, of course, you take a barrel to the river in a wheelbarrow, risking a serious accident with something that would make the doctors’ eyes widen over their masks.

The earth and the water in it are a complex natural system. Therefore, there is no point in giving step-by-step instructions and step-by-step guides to the drilling business: anyway, in the depths, something will turn out to be wrong. However, miners have long learned to overcome almost any surprise in the underground world. And this article, based on this experience, provides the information necessary for a novice driller to ensure that, if not the first, then the second well with his own hands produces water in the required quantity of good quality.

Where to drill?

The general scheme of the formation of aquifers in nature is shown in Fig. Verkhovodka feeds mainly on sediments and lies within the range of approximately 0-10 m. High water can be suitable for drinking without deep treatment (boiling, filtration through shungite) only in individual cases and subject to regular testing of samples by sanitary authorities. Then, for technical purposes, the perched water is taken from a well; The well's flow rate in such conditions will be small and very unstable.

A water well is drilled independently into interstratal waters; highlighted in red in Fig. It is impossible to drill an artesian well that provides water of the best quality for a very long time, even if you have a detailed geological map of the area: the depth is usually more than 50 m and only in exceptional cases does the formation rise to 30 m. In addition, independent development and the extraction of artesian waters is categorically prohibited, to the point of criminal liability - this is a valuable natural resource.

Most often, it is possible to drill a well on your own into a gravity-fed formation.– sand soaked in water on a clay bed. Such wells are called sand wells, although the free-flowing aquifer can be gravel, pebble, etc. Free-flowing waters lie approximately 5-20 m from the surface. The water from them is most often drinkable, but only based on the test results and after pumping the well, see below. The debit is small, 2 cubic meters. m/day is considered excellent, and fluctuates somewhat throughout the year. Sand filtering is required, which complicates the design and operation of the well, see below. The lack of pressure increases the requirements for the pump and the entire water supply system.

The pressure strata lie deeper, in the range of about 7-50 m. The aquifer in this case is dense water-resistant fractured rocks - loam, limestone - or loose, gravel-pebble deposits. The best quality water comes from limestone, and such wells last longer. Therefore, water supply wells from pressure layers are called limestone wells. The formation's own pressure can lift water almost to the surface, which greatly simplifies the construction of a well and the entire water supply system. The debit is large, up to 5 cubic meters. m/day, and stable. A sand filter is most often not needed. As a rule, the analysis of the first water sample passes with a bang.

Note: But how do you find out which layer is available and accessible in a given place? The methods for finding water for drilling a well are generally the same as for. In the central zone of the Russian Federation, free-flowing water can almost always be found within the first 20 meters of depth.

Important circumstances

First: Mass uncontrolled intake of free-flow water can lead to the so-called. soil suffusion, as a result of which soil failures suddenly and unpredictably occur, see Fig.

Second: The critical depth for self-drilling on flat terrain in the Russian Federation is 20 m. Deeper - the cost of a custom turnkey well is less than the direct and indirect costs of a self-drill. In addition, the failure rate is close to 100%

Third: The service life of a well greatly depends on the regularity of water intake from it. If you take water little by little as you use it, a well for sand will last about 15 years, and for limestone up to 50 years or more. If you periodically pump everything out at once or, conversely, take it sporadically, the well will dry up in 3-7 years. Repairing and restarting a well is so complicated and expensive that it’s easier to drill a new one. If this circumstance surprises you, keep in mind that it is not a pipe in the ground that is being repaired, but an aquifer.

Based on this, we can already advise: if you find free-flowing water no deeper than 12-15 m, do not rush to rejoice, it is better to drill as far as possible to reach the limestone. And it’s best not to be lazy and carry out exploratory drilling with a needle well, see below. It is possible to make an igloo well literally in a weekend; complex and expensive equipment is not required. And it can also be a temporary source of water supply until you decide on a permanent one in terms of time, money, etc.

Note: a water well is called an igloo (more details at the link). You can literally break through it from the basement of the house, as in the video below:

Video: Abyssinian well in the house

Well or well?

It is known that digging a well is immeasurably more difficult, complex and dangerous work than drilling a well, as is the fact that a properly equipped well is repairable. But there is also a fundamental difference between them. Water is drawn from the well as much as the earth will give, i.e. how much will leak from the formation. And the action of a well is similar to drawing blood from a donor’s vein. That is why the service life of wells is limited and they can catastrophically change the geology of the area. A well can provide water for decades and centuries, and a well made in rocky soil can provide water for millennia, without in any way affecting the local ecology and geology. Therefore, private water wells are drilled, with the goal of either building a collective artesian water supply system (artesian wells are durable and environmentally friendly), or, having mustered the courage and resources, to dig a well. At the same time, the water supply system of the house is being built completely, because... In general, she just needs pressure, except for some nuances, see below. And the abandoned well is plugged with concrete mortar and the land around it is returned to the farm.

Types of wells

A borehole is a long, narrow cavity in rock called a borehole. When drilling, a drilling tool (a drill bit or simply a drill) is lowered into a shaft on a rigid assembly rod made of pipes (a drill string or drill rod) or a cable. A pipe or several concentric pipes are placed in the shaft - casing (case pipe, case string) - protecting the walls of the shaft from collapse and maintaining rock pressure. The casing can fit tightly in the barrel or with some gap - the annulus; it is filled with backfill or clay (clay castle) or poured with concrete. The lower end of the trunk can be open, plugged, or end in a stepped narrowing - the bottom. An intake device is made at the bottom or in the bottom of a production well for liquid minerals. The upper part of the casing is called the well head. A set of devices that make up the well arrangement is placed around the head or in it. Of the many well designs, most of all the types shown in Fig. pass independently; a more detailed diagram of the well with casing is shown there, pos. 5.

1 – needle hole. The drill rod, casing and drill string are one; the drill remains in the ground. They pass the needle hole using the impact method, see below. A core driver, a set of drilling tools, and other equipment for drilling wells with a separate casing for a needle well are not required, see fig. on right. The penetration speed reaches 2-3 m/hour, and the maximum depth achieved in this way is about 45 m. Needle wells are used for constructing Abyssinian wells, especially in the country. The output of the needle well is small, but in the summer it is quite stable. Its service life does not depend on the intensity and regularity of water intake, but it is unpredictable: there are Abyssinian wells that have been providing water for more than 100 years, but they can dry up in six months. The needle well cannot be repaired; it can only be drilled in not very dense and homogeneous soils. The maximum diameter of the drill rod when drilling without a piledriver is up to 120 mm, which is sufficient for a submersible pump with a caliber of 86 mm.

Note: when drilling an exploratory needle well, it is better to use a simple filter, on the left in Fig.

2 – imperfect well. She seems to be hanging in the seam. It does not require sophisticated knowledge of geology and drilling skills, but the flow rate is lower and the water quality is worse than the maximum possible for a given formation. The water quality can be maximized if the well below is plugged. In addition, perhaps the so-called. pulling the drilling tool and casing deep. Self-propelled wells are most often imperfect; much of the following material concerns them. Wells in thick aquifers are also drilled imperfectly, because when deepened into the formation by 1.5-2 m, the debit stabilizes and almost does not grow deeper.

3 – perfect well. The casing rests on the roof of the underlying waterproof layer. The flow rate and quality of water are maximum, but to drill a perfect well, precise knowledge of local geology and the experience of the driller are necessary, otherwise, firstly, the casing may be pulled into the underlying formation if it is plastic. Secondly, when drilling, you can pierce the litter, and the water will go down; this is especially true in dry areas with thin layers. Thirdly, just one incorrectly drilled well can cause serious damage to the local ecology.

4 – well with bottom. It can be either perfect or imperfect. The bottomhole makes it easier to maintain the well and makes it repairable to some extent, but experienced drillers must drill a bottomhole well according to the local geology.

Note: in some sources the bottom of the well is called a sump. This is also incorrect in German; the bottom of a well and the sump of a well are completely different things.

Drilling methods

You can drill wells yourself in the following ways:

Rotary, or rotary - the drill bit rotates, biting into the rock;
Impact - they hit the drill rod, deepening the drill bit into the rock, this is how needle holes are drilled;
Impact-rotational - the rod with the drilling tool is raised several times and lowered with force, loosening the rock, and then rotated, taking it into the cavity of the tool, see below;
Rope-impact - a special drilling tool is raised and lowered on a rope, taking away the rock.

All these methods relate to dry drilling. When hydrodrilling, the working process occurs in a layer of water or a special drilling fluid that increases the compliance of the rock. Hydrodrilling is not environmentally friendly, requires expensive special equipment and high water consumption. In amateur conditions, it is used in exceptional cases, in an extremely simplified and limited form, see below.

Dry drilling, except for impact drilling without casing, can only be intermittent, i.e. the drill has to be lowered into the trunk, then removed from it in order to select the rock from the drill. In professional hydraulic drilling, crushed rock is removed with spent drilling fluid, but an amateur needs to know for sure: it is impossible to drill a shaft to a depth greater than the length of the working part of the tool in one drilling cycle. Even if you drill with an auger (see below), you need to lift it and shake out the rock from the turns after a maximum of 1-1.5 m of penetration, otherwise the expensive tool will have to be given to the ground.

Casing installation

The attentive reader may already have a question: how do they install casing in the barrel? Or how do they raise/lower the drill, which, in theory, should be wider than it? In professional drilling - in different ways. The oldest is illustrated in Fig. on the right: the axis of rotation of the tool is shifted relative to its longitudinal axis (circled in red), and the cutting part is made asymmetrical. The neck of the drill is made conical. All this, of course, is carefully calculated. Then, in operation, the drill describes a circle extending beyond the casing, and when lifted, its neck slides along its edge and the drill slips into the pipe. This requires powerful, precise drive of the drill string and its reliable centering in the casing. As the casing deepens, it is built up from above. Complex special equipment is not available to amateurs, so they can install casing pipes in the following ways:

They drill a “bare” trunk without casing to full depth with a drill of a larger diameter than the casing pipe, and then lower the casing pipes into it. To prevent the entire column from falling down, they use 2 drill gates: one holds the pipe that has already gone into the well, see fig. on the right, and the second one is installed on the new one before removing the first one. Only then is the column pushed into the trunk if it no longer moves. This method is often used by amateurs on fairly dense, adhesive (sticky) and cohesive (not loose) soils to a depth of 10 m, but there are no statistics on how many wells collapsed, how many drills and casing were lost.
The drill is taken with a smaller diameter, and the lower casing is made with diverging sharpened teeth (crown) or equipped with a cutting skirt. Having drilled for 1 cycle, the drill is filled, and the pipe is forced to settle; a crown or skirt cuts off excess soil. This method slows down drilling, because before starting a new cycle, you need to use a bailer (see below) to select the crumbled soil, but it is more reliable, makes it easier to fill the annulus with gravel and allows you to use an external sand filter, see below.

Drilling tool

Now let's see which drill to drill into which soil and in what way, see fig. on right:

The cutting edges of all drills are made of hardened steel. Drawings of a homemade drill-glass, an analogue of a spoon drill (the cutting blades are installed by a propeller at an angle of 3-10 degrees) and a diagram of the bailer are shown in the following. rice. on right. The outer diameters of all these drills can be changed depending on the caliber of the well.

How do they drill?

Mobile drilling rigs that allow you to drill directly from the ground, like the one in Fig. left,

Unfortunately, they are not available for rent: their management requires professional training, and the very fact of ownership, albeit temporary, requires a license for drilling operations. Therefore, we will have to start the old fashioned way, in the Gorshchitsky way - with a homemade copra, unless the woman beats the needle well.

Koper

The simplest pile driver is a tripod made of logs or steel pipes in the form of an equilateral triangular pyramid - a tetrahedron, pos. 1 in Fig. below. This design is very strong and rigid with minimal material consumption. The height of a tetrahedron is equal to 0.8165 of the length of its edge, i.e. from ordinary 6-m logs, taking into account the depth of the pile driver's legs into the ground, a tripod with a height of about 4.5 m will be obtained, which will allow the use of casing pipe bends up to 3 m in length. In general, the height of the piledriver is taken 1.2-1.5 m above the maximum length of what will be lowered into the trunk.

The legs of the piledriver can be secured from moving around with a frame made of the same logs/pipes, but in order to save material, you can also dig 0.7-0.8 m into the ground, placing a piece of log about 1 m long horizontally under the heel of each - a bed. Assembling the copra tent on the ground, pos. 3, the legs are simultaneously (three or six of them) inserted into the pits with the beds and the soil is poured back, compacting it tightly.

Note: strengthening the legs of a piledriver directly on the ground with crowbars or steel rods driven in from the outside is extremely dangerous!

The pile driver is equipped with a lifting and drilling gate (pos. 1 and 2), a block with a hook (pos. 1, 2, 4) and a rocking lever for lifting the drill, cable-impact drilling, setting casing pipes and working with a bailer, pos. 2. The block hook and drills that have an eye (a ring for fastening the rope) are tied with an anchor knot (it is also called a fishing bayonet, pos. 1 in the figure on the right), and long loads are tied with a cargo knot, pos. 2 there.

Shurf

Having installed the pile driver, a hook with a compact weight (a sledgehammer, for example) is lowered to the ground, this is where the trunk will begin. Around this point, they dig (hammer) a hole measuring approximately 1.5 x 1.5 x 1.5 m. In the hole, they also mark the starting point and drill the first 3-4 m with an auger, constantly checking its verticality. This is an extremely important operation; the fate of the entire well depends on the first meters! Further, if drilling will be to a depth of more than 7 m, it is highly desirable to install a conductor - a pipe with a diameter larger than the diameter of the annulus of the wellbore. The conductor is carefully aligned to the vertical and concreted.

Note: Attention! When choosing the dimensions of the well, drills and pipes, tie them to the caliber of the submersible pump! The gap between its body and the nearest wall must be at least 7 mm or according to the specifications for the unit. The most common caliber of household submersible pumps is 86 mm.

Prokhodka

Methods of drilling with different projectiles on different soils are described above. Problems can arise, in addition to boulders, with dense dry clay, this is a very harmful rock. You can deal with it in different ways, for example, as shown here:

Video: drilling water wells in dense clay

In general, rotary-percussion or cable-percussion hydraulic drilling is used to penetrate dense clay, see figure on the right. There is no need to pump water that is not yet available. You can simply pour several buckets into the casing, wait half an hour or less, and try which one takes better - a glass or a spoon. You don’t have to try it with an auger, the clay will take it.

Casing and column

The drill string is assembled from steel pipes with a diameter of about 80 mm and walls with a thickness of 4 mm. Whether you take ready-made drill elbows or make them yourself, pay attention to the connection method. Only connections with bayonet couplings are suitable for manual drilling! Threaded and locking ones of any kind are not suitable: the rod will inevitably have to be turned in the opposite direction at some point and the rod will unscrew and the lock will come apart during any type of impact drilling.

During the drilling process, as already mentioned, casing pipes are also installed. Nowadays, even in professional drilling to shallow depths, plastic casings have become practically no alternative, but you need to take special casings:

Lightweight, you can move it alone.
Withstand forced settlement and soil pressure with a force of up to 5 tf.
They practically do not slow down the internal filter, see below, when installing it.
They do not corrode or spoil water throughout their service life, up to 50 years.

The only thing that plastic casing is afraid of is damage from the inside by the drill rod. Therefore, it is advisable to use drill pipe centralizers, see fig. on the right, 1 for every 3-5 m of the rod. The cheapest ones are steel spring ones, they are quite suitable. As for the complex ones with turbulators, etc., they are for professional hydraulic drilling.

Sprinkling

As the casing deepens into the barrel, it is necessary to add fine gravel into the annulus. Gravel filling of a water well will greatly speed up its pumping and extend its service life. And a sand well without backfill may turn out to be completely inoperable.

There is water!

The achievement of the aquifer by a needle well is judged by the increase in the rate of penetration, and the presence of water is checked with a snare - a piece of steel pipe welded at one end and lowered into the well on a cord. With other wells it is simpler: as the drill once again brought out wet soil, it means there is water. It remains to be decided whether it is necessary to go deeper. To do this, use a centrifugal submersible pump (the vibrating pump will immediately clog in such slurry) to pump out several buckets. If the water in the 5th bucket has not noticeably brightened, you need to go deeper another 0.5 m (1 drilling cycle) and check again. If you have already gone 2 m deep, but the sample is still the same - that’s it, there will be no more debit, and you will have to put up with a long buildup. Also, if the rate of penetration suddenly drops (and it is very difficult for an inexperienced driller to detect it using any drilling method other than rotary), then drilling is stopped immediately - we are at the bottom of the formation, the well will be perfect.

Note: When drilling stops or is interrupted, the rod with the drill must be removed, otherwise it will be pulled into the ground.

Rocking up

A drilled well will not yet provide water in the required quantity and quality. To do this, it is necessary to either open the aquifer or pump the well. Opening up the formation allows you to get drinking water within 24 hours. It requires large amounts of clean water and complex and expensive equipment. Please note: autopsy is carried out using direct and reverse methods. In direct drilling, water is pumped under pressure into the casing and drilling fluid is pumped out of the annulus. When reversed, water is fed by gravity “behind the pipe” and the solution is pumped out of the trunk. Direct opening is faster, but it disrupts the structure of the formation more strongly and the well lasts less. The opposite is the opposite. Keep this in mind when negotiating with drillers if you order a well.

Bore pumping takes several days, but can be done with a conventional household submersible centrifugal pump; vibration is not suitable for the reasons stated above. To pump, first remove silt from the well using a bailer; You can see how to use a bailer in the video below:

Video: cleaning (swinging) a well with a homemade bailer

The rest is not difficult: the water is completely pumped out every time there is enough of it to cover the pump. It is useful to raise and lower it on the cable rope several times before turning it on to stir up the residual sludge. The swing can be done with a manner, but scooping will take a lot of work, and it will take about two weeks.

Note: as the rocking progresses, the gravel backfill will settle; it must be replenished by adding more.

The pumping of the well is considered complete when the transparency of the water rises to 70 cm. It is checked with a white enamel or earthenware disk with a diameter of 15 cm (saucer, saucepan lid) in an opaque vessel, for example. clean barrel. When the edges of the disk begin to blur during immersion, stop, it’s already opaque. You need to look at the disk strictly vertically. Once transparency is achieved, the water sample is submitted for analysis and, if everything is OK, the annulus is concreted or closed with clay, and a filter is installed.

Filter

A well filter is the main device that ensures the quality of water from it. And at the same time, it is the component most susceptible to wear, so the choice of a well filter must be taken with full responsibility.

Artesian water is taken without filtration. For a well on limestone, most often a simple lattice filter in the form of perforation on the lower bend of the casing is sufficient; it will also serve as the basis for a sand well filter. The perforation requirements are:

The diameter of the holes is 15-20 mm, up to 30 mm depending on the ground.
The filter duty cycle (the ratio of the total area of the holes to the surface area they occupy) is 0.25-0.30, for which the distance between the centers of the holes is taken to be 2-3 times greater than their diameter.
The location of the holes is in transverse rows in a checkerboard pattern.
The total area of all holes is not less than the cross-sectional area of the casing pipe lumen.

For a sand well, firstly, gravel backfill is necessary; in this case, it is precisely this that ensures long-term water quality, as in a well. In view of this, well filters with a layer of gravel included in the design are available for sale. There is no harm in them, but the wellbore needs a larger diameter, which makes drilling difficult, and without external backfilling, the well still quickly silts up.

Further, if you follow the flow of water, there is the same perforated pipe, but now it will be a load-bearing element that absorbs rock pressure. To prevent sand, which gravel does not retain well, from spoiling the entire water supply tract, you also need a sand filter. It can be external or external (on the left in the figure) or internal (on the right in the same place). External filters have three advantages: minimal diameter and siltation of the well and pump installation depth. But they are easily damaged during casing installation, are unrepairable and expensive, because... due to the latter circumstance, they must be made of very high-quality materials: alloys for the mesh and wire of external well filters are more expensive than silver.

When installing a pump in a well with an internal filter, its bottom is considered to be its upper edge, so the volume of one-time water withdrawal is seriously reduced. The problem with all internal filters is increased silting of the well due to water seeping into the gap between the filter and the casing. Also, as a result, the service life of the filter is reduced, and pump wear increases, because sand gets into it. Often, therefore, the pump is placed in a separate pipe mounted on the outlet of the filter, which again requires an increase in the diameter of the well.

The best option is to connect the pump directly to the filter outlet, then both silting and sanding will stop. But this requires a centrifugal pump with an intake pipe on the bottom, which makes it much more complicated and expensive, and the vibration pressure is often low for sand wells.

The filter elements of sand filters are sometimes made independently from PVC pipes, stainless springs and polymer mesh, see fig. on the left, but they filter poorly and do not last long. It’s better to take a good store-bought filter; its operating conditions are too difficult, and taking it out, as they say, is quite a task. In this case, there are basically 3 options, see fig:

Polymer stacked ring filter. Cheaper than others, but lasts less and is prone to silting, but it is repairable: you can lift it and sort it out, replacing bad rings. Requires an increased well diameter;
Tubular-wire with a winding of profiled wire. A little more expensive than polymer, but it lasts a long time and does not silt. Repairs do not require a bulkhead; just wash the top. It would be optimal if not for one “but”: cases of fraud by manufacturers, traders, and drillers have been repeatedly noted - how completely stainless filters are supplied, in which the longitudinal rods are made of ordinary galvanized wire. It is impossible to check without breaking the filter, but harmful impurities soon appear in the water, and then the rods completely rust, the winding slips, and the entire filter has to be replaced.
Support-free welded filters, wire and slotted. They would be ideal (the latter can withstand settling into the barrel from the outside on the pipe), if not for the price: they are made from the same profiled stainless wire that costs about the same as silver.

Arrangement and automation

To supply water to the house, a well must be equipped and mutually coordinated with the water supply. The arrangement of water supply wells has undergone radical changes in recent years. The traditional scheme (see figure on the right) - a caisson, concrete or steel, or stone pit, which requires a large amount of additional excavation work and usable land area for itself, is becoming a thing of the past. Nowadays, water wells are increasingly equipped with well adapters, see fig. below. Installing the adapter is quite a painstaking task, but it is incomparable with a caisson-pit sweep:

As soon as the water begins to flow, they judge by the speed of its clearing how much further it is possible to go deeper, and cut the last casing pipe to size from above.
Before installing it, make a trench to the house to a depth greater than the standard depth of soil freezing.
A hole for the adapter is drilled in the pipe in advance and installed, plugging the pipes. If you place it directly in a well, it may gurgle there.
They place the pipe and drill further, orienting the outlet of the adapter into the trench at a depth greater than the freezing depth.
They rock the well, install the filter, lower the pump, connect the pump supply pipe and the transit pipe to the house to the adapter fittings, and lay the pump cable.
They put the well cap on, when the water has flowed into the tank, fill up the trench - that’s it.

Water supply to a private house from a well has its own characteristics, but they will not prevent you from later connecting to a collective water supply or drinking water from a well. You won’t have to redo anything, it will only be more reliable.

First, you need a pressure storage tank. The flow rate of a non-artesian well may, for unknown reasons, drop until it stops completely, and then the water flows again as if nothing had happened. Secondly, downstream of the tank along the water flow you need at least a 2-stage membrane filter. In public water supply systems, water quality is continuously monitored, which is not the case at home. What if there is a man-made accident or an unauthorized discharge of pollution somewhere in the reservoir’s recharge zone? Everyone had already forgotten when it was, and the bad water had just reached the well.

Finally, the home water supply must comply with the principle of gradual, uniform water withdrawal, which was discussed at the beginning. Cooperating with neighbors, as when building a common septic tank, is not the best solution in this case. Suddenly there won’t be enough debit for everyone, instead of a community there will be squabbles. Those. we need automation that turns on the booster pump as soon as someone somewhere opens a tap.

There are 2 options here. The first is a pressure tank with a float valve in a warm attic. All automation consists of a rod that passes in a sleeve through the tank cover and rests on the float lever, and a 6-10 A microswitch (micrik) with normally closed contacts in the pump power supply circuit. While the tank is full, the rod presses on the microphone lever, the pump is de-energized. As soon as water began to flow into the house, the rod dropped, the microphone went off, and the pump started pumping.

However, firstly, you need to insulate the attic, which costs a lot of work and money. The second is a pump, it will require an extra 4-5 meters of pressure, and for a 2-story house, all 8-9, so the pump turns out to be expensive. Thirdly, a leak in the tank or a malfunction of the float will at least lead to the ceiling getting wet. Therefore, modern automation for water supply wells, controlled by a microcontroller that monitors flow rate, water pressure and the frequency of turning on the pump, is still cheaper and more reliable. House plumbing is then carried out with a sealed membrane storage tank in the basement.

Afterword

The drilling masters who once developed Tyumen and Urengoy are still alive. There were no geophysical equipment that built a 3D picture of what was in the ground on a computer display, and there were no fully robotic drilling rigs at that time, but they already saw through the earth with their intuition, experience and were on friendly terms with all the spirits of the subsoil. And the then ministers and members of the Politburo, who had more arrogance than the old Testament boyars and appanage princes, addressed these aces as “you” by name and patronymic and respectfully shook their hands.

So, any of the old bison drillers have failed wells, which they are not ashamed of - that’s how they work. What then should we say to beginners who act independently? Don't be discouraged by failure; suddenly the first well turns out to be empty, or collapses, or the drill gets stuck. Not without that in the drilling business. But frustration and disappointment will instantly subside under the powerful pressure of, as they say now, positivity, as soon as your well produces water.

Providing a site with water is the first task of its owner. The more ambitious the plans for improving your territory, the more acutely the lack of water supply will be felt. Water is needed for construction work, for the garden you are planning to create, and for your own daily needs.

If you make a water well with your own hands, your dream of water supply will not only come true, but will also allow you to save significantly. We will tell you the best way to drill and what kind of equipment independent craftsmen will need. Taking into account our advice, you will easily arrange your own water source on the site.

There are several real ways to obtain life-giving moisture, which we will tell you about. There are several technologies that can be used to independently extract water in a suburban area.

You will have to choose the appropriate option yourself, since it depends on the landscape of the area, as well as on the technical equipment, finances and skills that you possess. Let's look at the main well structures.

It is difficult to give preference to any one design: each has its own advantages and disadvantages, so the choice depends on the landscape of the area and the capabilities of the owner of the site

Abyssinian tube well

If there is a spring on your site, then installing a well is an excellent option for extracting water. The shaft of this structure will act as a liquid storage tank. If the source is active enough, up to 2 cubic meters of water will always be at your disposal.

The Abyssinian well is essentially the same well, but narrow and long. Due to the fact that its length can be approximately 8-12 meters, no pollution from the soil surface gets into the water that fills it.

The Abyssinian well is often called a needle well, because the pipe driven into the ground when creating this structure really resembles a needle

The following video will introduce you to the technology of punching and constructing a needle well, otherwise known as an Abyssinian well:

Sand well (filter)

The deepening of this structure to 15-30 meters is carried out by any method: auger, shock-rope, core. The walls of the well are formed using a pipe with an average diameter of 100 - 180 mm.

The buried end of the wellbore is equipped with a filter. A stainless steel mesh is used as a filter, which is welded or soldered to the first link of the pipe string before immersing it in coarse sand mixed with pebbles.

So you can schematically imagine the design of a well “on sand”, where number 1 is the casing pipe, number 2 is the statistical water level, and number 3 is the mesh filter

This design can satisfy the water needs of a small country house with two water points. If the operation of the structure is seasonal, it will last about five years. With constant use, you can count on 15 years of water supply.

When the well does silt up, you can try to wash it out. If resuscitation measures do not give the desired effect, a new shaft will have to be drilled. Place it next to the previous one.

Artesian well without filter

This structure does not require a filter. Such a well can reach a depth of 100 meters or more. The water produced using such a structure is contained in limestone cracks. The liquid accumulated in them due to condensation can be not only crystal clear, but also mineralized.

Light mineralization is acceptable for everyday use. If the extracted water is classified as mineral water in its composition, then it cannot be used for domestic purposes.

Diagram of an artesian well: 1 - conductor, 2 - statistical water level, 3 - intermediate column, 4 - production column with perforation

It is difficult to determine in advance the depth of the well that will have to be drilled in search of water. You can only roughly get your bearings by talking with neighbors on the site and finding out from them what parameters similar structures have on their territories.

The soil layers are uneven, so the information obtained still cannot be considered accurate for your area. For this reason, casing pipes are purchased taking into account the correction of the obtained data.

How is a typical well constructed?

If you don’t focus on the nuances, the essence of installing a water well for a country house is the same: it is a long narrow vertical shaft that reaches the depth of the water. The walls of the mine are reinforced with casing pipes. Wells differ from each other in width, depth and additional devices that increase their productivity and reliability.

In addition to casing, wells are equipped with equipment for forced lifting of liquid and its distribution. To choose the right pumping equipment and storage tank, you need to know the characteristics of the well, the most important of which is its depth and flow rate.

The flow rate of a well is an indicator of its productivity: the maximum volume of liquid obtained per unit of time. It is calculated in cubic meters or liters per hour or day.

Image gallery

Making a shallow well with your own hands is a completely feasible undertaking, despite the apparent scale of the process. The springs, 12-15 meters deep, are ordinary wells that were always dug independently. But even deeper structures can be penetrated without special equipment and Herculean efforts. The consultants of the Plumber Portal website know several ways to drill a water well with your own hands without using special equipment.

Before considering how to drill a water well with your own hands, you need to understand what types they can be. Water can be extracted using different technologies.

The main types of well structures for water production:

If you have a good spring, you can build an excellent well, which will quickly fill up, becoming a good reservoir that can hold up to 2 cubic meters of life-giving moisture. The depth reaches 15 meters. Above this boundary, a phenomenon such as “overwater” is often encountered - an aquifer with a high level of pollution that comes from the soil surface. It is not recommended to consume water from this layer.
A sand filter well, which is a pipe with a diameter of 100 mm, using an auger, immersed to a depth of 17-30 meters. At the end of the pipe, which is recessed, a stainless steel mesh is fixed, which plays the role of a filter immersed in coarse sand. The depth of the well is on average from 20 to 30 meters, the service life is from 5 to 15 years.
A filterless artesian well, its operating principle is that it extracts water from layers of porous limestone. An artesian well can be drilled to a depth of 20-100 meters, and its service life reaches 50 years.

The exact depth of the water source cannot be determined in advance. The approximate depth will be the same dimensions as in similar wells drilled in neighboring areas or in a nearby well. Slight deviations are possible due to uneven occurrence of soil layers. It is recommended to purchase casing pipes, taking into account the parameters of nearby water supply sources, but making minor adjustments.

Now let’s take a closer look at drilling water wells with our own hands, taking into account the type of source.

Abyssinian well drilling technology

The Abyssinian well is a fairly simple type of well to set up, which can be drilled manually without the use of special tools, while the principle of its operation is also very accessible. A needle well is a type of water intake that can be equipped even without work experience and purchasing materials in just a day. This is the simplest water well design.

Required:

Metal thick-walled pipes. The diameter is taken based on the diameter and type of pump planned to be used. The total length is equal to the depth of the face.
The filter winding requires a metal or PVC mesh.
Drill and drill bits with a diameter of 5-7 mm.
A welding machine, if you plan to connect pipes by welding, or dies and taps for cutting threads. Or you can purchase pipes with a ready-made threaded connection.

It must be taken into account that the lower part of the casing is a drill, and before starting work, a filter must be installed on the lower end of the pipe above the tip. The length of the filter part can reach 75-85 cm. Holes with a diameter of 8 mm are drilled along the entire circumference of the pipe at an angle of 45°, arranged in a checkerboard pattern.

The top of the perforated pipe is wrapped with fine-mesh steel mesh or plastic mesh. The mesh must be secured to the pipe in any convenient way: with clamps, steel wire, which must be soldered to the mesh and pipe. The stages of filter formation are carried out by the projectile through the first meter of soil, as in the diagram.

Using a building level, the verticality of the entry into the ground is checked: the slightest deviation at the beginning of manual drilling of a well leads to the fact that in subsequent stages of work, in particular, the impossibility of installing parts of the casing at depth. Everything will have to be redone.

An Abyssinian well can be built using manual hydraulic drilling or, to speed up the process, it can be automated. To do this, you need to connect the drill tip to the drill rod, which is connected to the electric motor. During operation, the rods are extended by attaching new parts of the casing pipe.

Manual well drilling

Most often, summer residents are interested in how to drill a well with their own hands, and not just a well. It will be necessary to have such equipment for drilling wells as drill, drilling rig, winch, rods and casing. A drilling tower is needed for digging a deep well; it is used to immerse and lift a drill with rods.

Rotary method

The simplest method of constructing a water well is rotary, carried out by rotating a drill.

Hydrodrilling of shallow water wells can be done without a tower, and the drill string can be removed manually. Drill rods are made from pipes, connecting them together using keys or threads.

The bar, which will be located below all, is additionally equipped with a drill. The cutting attachments are made of 3 mm sheet steel. When sharpening the cutting edges of the nozzle, it must be taken into account that at the moment the drill mechanism rotates, they must cut into the soil clockwise.

The derrick is mounted above the drilling site; it should be higher than the drill rod in order to facilitate the removal of the rod during lifting. After this, a guide recess for the drill is dug to a depth of approximately two shovel bayonets.

It is quite possible to do the first turns of rotation of the drill yourself, but with greater immersion of the pipe, additional forces will be required. If the drill cannot be pulled out the first time, you need to turn it counterclockwise and try to pull it out again.

The deeper the drill goes, the more difficult the movement of the pipes becomes. To make this task easier, the soil must be softened by pouring water. When moving the drill down every 50 cm, the drilling structure must be removed to the surface and cleared of soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. When the tool handle reaches ground level, the structure is extended with an additional elbow.

As the drill goes deeper, it becomes more difficult to rotate the pipe. Softening the soil with water will help make the work easier. As the drill moves downwards, every half a meter the drilling structure should be brought to the surface and freed from the soil. The drilling cycle is repeated again. At the stage when the tool handle is level with the ground, the structure is extended with an additional elbow.

Since lifting and cleaning the drill takes up most of the time, you need to make the most of the design's capabilities, capturing and lifting up as much of the soil as possible. This is the operating principle of this installation.

Drilling continues until the aquifer is reached; it can be easily determined by the condition of the soil being removed. Having passed the aquifer, the drill should be immersed a little deeper until it reaches the layer that is located below the aquifer, aquifer. Reaching this layer will make it possible to ensure maximum water flow into the well.

It is worth noting that manual drilling can only be used to dive to the nearest aquifer; it usually lies at a depth not exceeding 10-20 meters.

To pump out dirty liquid, you can use a hand pump or a submersible pump. After two or three buckets of dirty water are pumped out, the aquifer is usually cleared and clean water appears. If this does not happen, the well needs to be deepened by about another 1-2 meters.

Screw method

An auger rig is often used for drilling. The working part of this installation is very similar to a garden auger, only much more powerful. It is made from a 100 mm pipe with a pair of screw turns welded onto it with a diameter of 200 mm. In order to make one such turn, you need a round sheet blank with a hole cut in its center, the diameter of which is slightly larger than 100 mm.

Then a cut is made along the radius of the workpiece, after which, at the place of the cut, the edges are moved apart in two different directions, which are perpendicular to the plane of the workpiece. As the drill sinks deeper, the rod on which it is attached is increased. The tool is rotated manually using a long handle made of pipe.

The drill must be removed approximately every 50-70 cm, and due to the fact that the deeper it goes, it will become heavier, so you will need to install a tripod with a winch. Thus, you can drill a water well in a private house a little deeper than using the above methods.

You can also use the manual drilling method, which is based on the use of a conventional drill and hydraulic pump:

Features of cable percussion drilling technology

The essence of this method is to break the rock using a driving glass - a heavy tool that falls from the height of a specially equipped tower. To complete the work, you will need a homemade drilling rig, in addition to tools for using the shock-rope method and extracting soil from the well. This technology is used for work on light or clay soil.

A well tower looks like an ordinary tripod and can be made from either steel pipes or simple wooden logs. The dimensions of the structure must proportionally correspond to the dimensions of the downhole tool. The optimal size ratio is the height of the tower, which is one and a half meters longer than the length of the downhole glass.

The working process consists of alternately lowering the driving glass, breaking and capturing the rock, and then raising the captured dump to the surface. In order to equip such a drilling rig, you can use a steel pipe, the end of which is equipped with a cutting device. The cutting edge, externally resembling half a turn of an auger, will be in direct contact with the bottom.

It is necessary to make a hole in the steel pipe 50 cm from the edge through which the extracted soil can be removed, thus emptying the drill bit. A cable is attached to the top of the glass, which helps lower the glass and remove its contents to the surface. It is recommended to free the glass from soil according to the depth of the structure for every 50 cm.

Step-by-step instructions for drilling a well on the site

Before starting work on a summer cottage, it is recommended to ask your neighbors what the water level is in your area, after which you can drill a well on the site. If there are wells nearby, look into them. If the water level is above 5 meters, this is a good sign, since in this case the only tools required for drilling are a garden auger and an approximate diagram of the location of the water source.

A small-sized drilling rig or a mechanical drilling device - a “handbrake” - can be rented. Thus, you will have the opportunity to use convenient equipment without overpaying an extra amount to get water on the site.

Let's describe the general instructions of the site, a site of relative technology, on how to make a water well with your own hands in the country:

It is necessary to make a square excavation in the ground with dimensions of 1.5 × 1.5 m and a depth of 1 to 2 meters; this will be the so-called pit. It is needed to prevent the loose surface of the soil from falling into the well. The inside of the pit must be lined with boards or plywood, and a boardwalk is laid on top of it for ease of installation.
After the installation is assembled, two coaxial holes are cut out in the upper and lower decks of the pit, after which drilling begins.
The drill rod is rotated manually or using a gear motor. At the same time, a support is placed on the bar, on which one of the workers will strike with a hammer. Another option: the drill is lifted using a winch and dropped in the same way as is done with percussion-rope drilling. If necessary, water or drilling fluid is supplied to the rod.
In parallel with drilling, a casing pipe with a special shoe installed below is installed into the well. It is also gradually built up, just like the drill rod.
After quicksand (soil with high humidity), drilling accelerates (due to the beginning of the aquifer), and then slows down again. This is a sign that the drill has reached the waterproof layer and drilling can be completed.
It is necessary to lower the filter column into the well, after which you can begin washing it with strong water pressure.
A submersible pump must be lowered into the well to pump out water until it becomes crystal clear.

At the last stage of constructing a well at the dacha with your own hands, a caisson is installed, all cavities must be filled with a sand-crushed stone mixture, and a pipeline is laid in a trench to the house. In this case, it is highly not recommended to lower the water pipe to the very bottom. It should not reach the extreme point of about 50 cm, thus ensuring better flow of water upward.

The pipe leading into the well must be equipped with ventilation holes, otherwise, without air access, the water will quickly dry out and extracting it will become impractical for most needs. For permanent access to the well, a hinged cover can be equipped on the pipe.

Advice! After a manually made well has been put into operation, be sure to submit the water obtained from it for examination. Water can be considered drinking water if it has the following characteristics: transparency of at least 30 cm, nitrate content - no more than 10 mg/l, 1 liter contains no more than 10 E. coli, maximum odor and taste rating - 3 points.

Do I need to install casing pipes?

After you have managed to drill a well for water, you need to equip additional casing, which can be made from either a solid asbestos-cement pipe or individual sections of asbestos pipes.

When working with cuts, special attention should be paid to the equal diameter of the pipes in order to ensure further unhindered immersion of the entire structure. Each pipe link is held in place by clamps, which are then hidden under stainless steel strips.

Pipe casing is needed:

to prevent wall shedding during drilling;
to prevent clogging of the well during operation;
to cover the upper aquifers with poor water.

A pipe equipped with a filter is lowered to the bottom of the well, which is made of a fine mesh that does not allow grains of sand to pass through and ensures water filtration. The pipe is lowered to the required depth and secured with a clamp. This will prevent spontaneous subsidence. When properly constructing a water well, the ground part is equipped with a caisson - a cap that protects the source from contamination.

Over time, a slight “squeezing” of the pipe from the ground may occur. This is a natural process of spontaneous lifting of the pipe to the surface of the ground, and does not require additional measures for deepening.

How to avoid mistakes when drilling?

The lack of experience among self-taught drillers is most often visible in the following:

The drill is lowered too deep, causing the casing to cross the aquifer. Solution: lift the casing pipe or insert another shorter one into it, after which the previously installed pipe must be removed.
The casing pipe did not reach the required depth, which caused the soil below to collapse and the well's productivity immediately dropped. Solution: you need to remove the soil with a bailer, then immerse the pipe to the required depth.
The pump was mounted too low, causing the well to become clogged with sand. Solution: the pump must be removed and, using a bailer, selected sand, installed correctly. The correct position is determined as follows: the operating pump is lowered gradually until sand is found in the water it pumps out. After which the pump is raised slightly until it begins to pump clean water. As a rule, the correct position of the pump is 1-2 meters from the bottom.

Timely cleaning is necessary for wells of all types. Signs that a water structure needs service can be: the presence of air pockets in the flow, jerks in the water outlet, the presence of various impurities in the water (sand, silt).

If you miss the moment of cleaning, the productivity of the well may no longer be restored. To restore normal operation, purify with a water or air compressor. The most radical cleaning methods are using electricity or acid. However, these methods are quite risky and are best left to specialists.

Thus, a DIY home well requires the same attention to care and maintenance as deep artesian structures. Drilling a water source yourself is not difficult, but you need to be careful during the work and call a couple of friends for help.

Do-it-yourself shallow well, how to drill one video:

A do-it-yourself well allows the owner of a private house, summer house or country cottage to always have water for economic and domestic needs. , its improvement and care - the owner can take all this into his own hands. Simple instructions will tell you in detail how to do this. You just need to follow all the steps in the guide step by step and you will save a significant amount of money on the services of third-party specialists.

Installing a well with your own hands eliminates the need to account for every cubic meter of water consumed and pay bills. That is why prudent owners choose such a water supply system.

Preparing to drill a well yourself

Before you begin the process of constructing a well, you need to clarify how deep the water lies. The easiest option is to talk to the owners of neighboring plots that are already equipped with individual wells. If this is not possible, you will have to call a team to drill a “test” well or explore everything yourself.

Construction of a well requires a number of tools and equipment. You won't be able to get by with a simple pick and shovel. In order to penetrate the earth to great depths, special equipment is needed. For example, artesian springs are created using powerful drilling rigs. A more modest source can be made using an ordinary tripod and winch.

Thanks to the winch, the drilling tool will be raised and lowered. The drilling tool itself includes the following components:

Boer. In most cases, a simple coil is used.
Drilling column.
Drill rods.
Core pipe.

Additionally, to construct a well yourself, you will need the following:

Caisson.
Shovels.
Water hoses/pipes.
Casing.
Pump.
Filter.
Valves.

Step-by-step instructions for installing a small well for irrigation

If you start constructing a well solely to obtain water for irrigation, you won’t have to make any special efforts. A modest source can be made using the simplest drill. The main thing is that the first aquifer lies at a depth of no more than 3 m. Otherwise, more effort will have to be made. This will be discussed in more detail in the next section of the instructions.

To increase the length of the drill, use pipes of small diameter. You can get by with reinforcing bars. To overcome denser soil layers, hang some additional weight on the drill handles. This will make it easier for you or your workers. Remember that you cannot drink water from such a depth, because... it does not undergo natural purification and can only be used for watering plants and other household tasks.

First you need to take an ax, weld or otherwise attach it to a metal rod and cut out all the roots that are in the path of your auger. After drilling to about 2 m, you will see wet sand. At this stage, you will have to take out a drill with adhering earth approximately every 10-15 cm. Otherwise, the installation may simply not withstand the weight of the soil and break.

When sand of a bluish-grayish hue begins to be visible, you can consider that the work is almost complete - the aquifer is already very close. When water appears, the drill can be removed, because eroded soil will not stay on the blades. At this stage, you insert the casing pipe and can use such an improvised source to water your plantings. Water from a well can be lifted using an electric pump or a regular hand pump. Choose at your discretion and according to your available budget.

Do-it-yourself well for drinking water

If the aquifer lies at a depth of about 10 m, the previous method cannot be used. But there is another effective and fairly simple technique. It will suit you in such a situation.

First, arm yourself with a shovel and dig a hole about 1.5 m deep. Your goal is to get rid of the loose, loose top layer of soil. A pit with an area of about 1 m² will be sufficient. For greater convenience, it is recommended to cover the walls of the pit with boards.

Take a steel pipe and make teeth on one side of it, like a hacksaw. The teeth must be bent in different directions. On the other side of the pipe you need to make a thread, thanks to which it can be connected to other sections of pipes using a coupling. Take the clamp and attach the handles to the pipe. They will allow you to comfortably hold the pipe vertically at the desired height. On all other pipes, the corresponding threads are prepared on both sides. The length should be approximately 3 m.

Next you need to take a 200 liter or larger drum, a water pump and a hose. The latter should be of such length that you can lower it from the prepared barrel into the middle of the pipe almost to the ground. Use a pipe with a diameter of 12 cm. In the future, it will serve as a casing pipe. Doing all this work exclusively with your own hands is very difficult and time consuming, so it is better to immediately enlist additional help.

Make rotational movements with the pipe in different directions, trying to deepen it to the maximum possible distance. Turn on the pump. Under the pressure of water, the ground at the base will be washed away. The wet earth, under its own weight and your rotational efforts, will sink to ever greater depths.

The barrel can be filled with the same water that will appear from the pipe. It is recommended to first filter it through a sieve. You can use other water. Consistently increase the length of the pipe by attaching new sections. This way you will get to the water layer pretty quickly. Remove the boards nailed at the very beginning and bury the hole, strengthening the pipe in the middle. Install a cover on top that will protect the well from various types of debris. To deliver water upward, use a pumping station or deep-well pump.

This is a fairly simple method that allows you to do it yourself without spending a lot of money and time on it and without buying expensive equipment. Sharpening, cutting, welding – you don’t have to do all this.

Well construction using the shock-rope method

This well construction method is one of the most commonly used. You need to take medium-thick logs and make a drilling derrick out of them. The top of the tower should be directly above the future neck of your well.

Make a hole about 2 m deep and about 1.5 x 1.5 m in size. It is recommended to cover the walls with boards. They will prevent soil from crumbling and make work more convenient.

As a casing pipe, use a steel product with a wall thickness of 5 mm or more. It is important that the pipe does not have side seams. Weld a cone to the bottom circle. Select a cone whose diameter is 4-5 cm larger than the diameter of the pipe itself.

Roll a thread on the top of the pipe to further connect this section with other pipes using a coupling. Install the pipe vertically into the hole using a plumb line and secure it so that it does not wobble, but is not tightly secured. Lower the bailer, tied with a strong hemp rope, into the pipe. It should have a thickness of 2 cm. You can use a steel cable with a diameter of 1 cm. After this, proceed directly to punching the source.

Everything is done extremely simply: you raise the bailer about 1 m and let it fall freely. The earth will be packed into the middle. It needs to be shaken out periodically. To do this, lift the pipe up using a winch. The heavier the bailer, the faster you will get to the water. Most often, a product weighing within 50 kg is used. The length of the bailer should not exceed 2 m.

Make sure that the bailer is not filled with earth more than 2/3 of its length. If there is more land, such a load may create inconvenience and difficulties at the stage of further penetration of the source. If hard rock gets in your way, replace the bailer with a chisel bit and destroy the obstacle.

After the water appears, the bailer can be removed. Pump it until it is clean using a deep pump. After this, you need to take a filter and insert it into the casing to prevent sand from getting into the well.

Using these instructions, you can make a water well with an average depth of 40 m, which is more than enough for the vast majority of cases.

At this depth, the water undergoes natural purification, becoming tasty and soft. It can be used for any household and household needs. If the water level on your site is more than 40 m, you will have to turn to the services of third-party specialists, because... It is impossible to make such a source yourself without the proper skills and powerful equipment.

Regardless of whether you have made a miniature watering source or a full-fledged artesian well, you will have to take care of your “brainchild”. Basic care comes down to timely cleaning work.

As soon as you notice a deterioration or change in water pressure not for the better, or the appearance of impurities in the form of silt or sand, immediately begin cleaning. Ignoring this procedure will lead to the fact that in the near future your well will become much less efficient. Pull a little more and it will become so clogged that it will be easier to dig a new source than to clean out the old one.

Use a water or air compressor to bleed. It will get rid of silt and sand. If these methods are ineffective or low, you can use cleaning methods using a short circuit or acid. But it’s better not to even think about them without having the appropriate skills. This is very dangerous both for the well itself and for the person servicing it. If the source cannot be cleared using a compressor, call appropriate specialists. Happy work!