I had a dream - an open terrace near the house. And last year, my husband added it to our country house, so I spent almost the entire summer in the fresh air, under a canopy, but somehow outside the house. Great, I must say!
Even on a cloudy day, I happily sat down with my brushes and paints and painted pictures - I’m an artist, not just a designer! This is how my creative days passed at the dacha.
The terrace never let us down; when it rained, it was dry - my husband specially made larger overhangs so that water would drain without splashing the floor.
Well, okay, let's look at interesting examples of open terraces for home and garden. The railings can be made higher or lower, at your discretion. For example, we don’t have them at all, since our site is 30 cm from the ground.
This terrace is simple, but I really liked it, our project is just like this one, only without a fireplace and without sheathing.
The example does not have a canopy, so it is only suitable for dry weather, and will require removing pillows and other fabrics into the house.
A wonderful simple example with a terrace next to a wooden fence. All plants are in tubs, which allows you to move and combine them, which means you will always have something original and fresh.
Wicker plastic furniture is perfect for an outdoor terrace, as it is durable and will not deteriorate due to precipitation and humidity. On the podium you can watch the sunrise, drink coffee and enjoy wonderful morning moments.
The idea of a terrace is on a slope, but you can assume that the far wall is a house. The hearth will enliven the space and allow you to cook shish kebab or barbecue.
An example of decorating a terrace and decorating outdoor furniture. Bright pillows will very organically enliven the space.
You can use hanging plants in your design; it’s always nice when something beautiful is also worked out in a vertical plane.
Instead of a traditional porch, you can just create a space for relaxation and gatherings in the fresh air.
By the way, you can also build a summer kitchen on the terrace so you can cook and eat in the fresh air.
An example of using a patio in front of the terrace - if you expect a lot of guests, then some of them can be placed below, or you can arrange a corner for smokers.
Outdoor furniture is now sold in many summer cottage supermarkets, where you can find options for absolutely every budget and taste.
The ideas are really different, there are both low and higher. I like it when the terrace is not on the same plane with the ground, but is still raised.
A veranda-type terrace is good because it can be glazed and you can sit on it even in the off-season. But, since we are at the dacha exclusively in the warm season, in my case a floor and a canopy were enough.
Example of a terrace at ground level, with ceramic tile paving. A set of metal furniture will allow you not to worry about its safety.
For long gatherings and peaceful contemplation, rocking chairs can be placed on the platform.
An original idea for canopy supports made from oak trunks.
A small terrace - a podium - can serve for one chair or a pair of chairs and a table.
The terrace podium can be placed on concrete blocks placed on a gravel-sand bed.
Example of terrace design
I present to you an idea for decorating a terrace in one of the cafes where I like to sit in the morning when I take my walk of vigor.
Along the perimeter of the terrace there are concrete containers with plants, flower pots and tubs of plants behind a low decorative fence.
I will be glad if my findings are useful to you and you, too, will be inspired by ideas and decide to build a terrace on your site. Thank you for your attention, share this publication with your friends, subscribe to updates and create beauty with your own hands!
A veranda is an extension to a house on a summer cottage, which is most often erected during the construction of the main building. However, it can be added later. You should not think that the veranda is a separate structure. It represents an important part of the house. To avoid problems with selling or donating property in the future, you should first obtain permission to build a veranda and then register the new house. This is due to the fact that living space is increasing. A veranda at the dacha can be erected with your own hands quite quickly - a few days. It is important to choose tools and materials.
Basic Rules
The main rule when constructing any veranda is the need to create an extension on the door side. This solution will further protect the entrance group. Attach a veranda from the end or facade of the house. You can only enter the building through this extension.
The second basic rule is that the style of the extension should be chosen in accordance with the design of the house. To prevent the veranda from becoming an awkward spot against the background of the building, it is worth considering some design recommendations. The width of the veranda is usually 2.5 m. If these conditions are not met, the extension will look rather bulky or too miniature.
There are many forms of verandas. They are performed open - when there is no need to insulate the extension, or closed - in the case of a permanent structure. Open extensions usually do not have a top structure. They only carry out the roof and fencing elements.
Enclosed verandas are most often made with continuous glazing. Depending on the chosen style, the space that is glazed may have a different area. Verandas with an open upper part of the walls can be used both as an entrance extension and as a terrace. In the case of closed extensions, a dining area or hallway is arranged here.
Pouring the foundation
The foundation for a veranda or terrace should be made at some distance from the foundation of the house. This is explained by the difference in weight between the main structure and the extension. The loads on the foundations of the house and its extensions will be different, so they should be installed at a distance of 15 mm from each other. The resulting gap is filled with polystyrene foam. It will compensate for ground movements. To build a veranda at your dacha with your own hands, you will need to know the foundation technology.
A columnar foundation is suitable for a frame-type veranda. It is not difficult to build such a foundation:
Important! Experienced builders recommend adding a veranda to a house made of timber only after it has completely settled. This process can take about 3 years. If you still decide to build the veranda before the shrinkage is completed, you will need to attach it to the house using a tongue-and-groove system.
Construction of the extension frame
Now you can begin constructing the extension frame. It is erected from beams with a section of 120x120 mm. Before installation, they should be protected from fire and moisture with special means. The lower harness is made double to make the structure more reliable. In the corners, the timber should be fastened halfway across the tree. The logs are installed at the stage of creating the upper element of the lower frame of the extension.
Depending on the material of the foundation supports of the extension, the method of fastening the lower frame is chosen. Studs can be pre-cast into concrete pillars. Subsequently, a beam is put on them and then secured with a nut.
In the case of brick supports, the strapping is secured using anchors. Metal pins are treated with a special agent that will protect them from corrosion. However, such treatment does not protect the timber from rotting.
The next step is to attach the purlin. The slope of the veranda roof goes under the roofing pie of the house, so its thickness should be taken into account first of all. Usually the purlin is mounted on anchor bolts to the wall of the house. There are many ways that vertical posts can be installed. They can be cut in the half-tree way, using the tongue-and-groove system, or by cutting out ½ of the bottom trim.
How high the racks will be should be determined based on their location. Those supports that are mounted against the wall of the extension will be higher. This ensures the slope of the roof. When calculating the height of the extension racks, it should be taken into account that they are mounted in a cut-out or in a groove. The roof of the extension should have a slope of 12%. This requirement is mandatory for proper installation of flexible tiles.
You can create the top frame of an extension quite quickly. The rafter beams should be mounted with one side on the purlin, which is located along the wall of the house, and the other on the top frame. The rigidity of the structure can be ensured by installing jibs. Crossbars mounted between racks must be installed using angles.
Construction of a veranda roof
Traditionally, the roof covering the veranda has one slope. It should be flatter than the slope of the roof of the house. The sheathing for flexible tiles is continuous. It is created from edged boards. Before creating the roofing pie for the extension, you should make sure that the boards are well dried. The humidity of wooden elements should not exceed 20%.
Grooves should be made on the eaves board for installing drainage holders. The boards for lathing should protrude 15 cm beyond the frame supports.
A layer of waterproofing is installed on the finished sheathing. In this case, it is necessary to overlap in the transverse and longitudinal directions. The canvas should be nailed to the boards with galvanized nails. They have one distinctive feature - wide caps. Using bitumen mastic, those places where the waterproofing film overlaps are treated.
Reinforcement of overhangs is carried out using end and cornice strips. They must be nailed down with roofing nails. Laying of flexible tiles is carried out from the center of the roof in both directions. In this case, shingles should be taken from different packs, since they may differ slightly in color.
The protective film should be removed from the shingles immediately before installation on the extension. The shingles are secured with roofing nails. The cap should not damage the roofing material. At points where there is no self-adhesive layer, the material should be coated with bitumen mastic.
Floor and walls
If you plan to make the veranda residential, the floor should be well insulated. To do this, you must first lay a rough covering. A 50x50 mm beam should be laid on top of it. The step between the elements should be 50 cm. The result will be cells for insulation. Penoplex should be placed in them. Then all the cracks are foamed. To figure out how to make a floor in an extension, you will need to study the detailed instructions.
Penoplex should be installed so that there is a distance of about 10 mm between the insulation and the finished floor of the veranda. This will ensure natural ventilation. Before laying, cover the timber and insulation material with a film that does not allow moisture to pass through. Its joints are connected with metallized tape. The finishing floor of the veranda is laid on top. It must be coated with polyurethane varnish. The floor on an open veranda should be painted with paint that can withstand various exposures to bad weather and sun.
The walls of the veranda must be lined from the outside with clapboard. After fixing the decorative material from the inside, it is necessary to lay waterproofing. Then the foam boards are installed. The inner surface of the veranda walls is also covered with clapboard.
Window blocks should be installed in the prepared openings of the extension. They are secured with nails. All gaps are foamed. When the foam has completely hardened, the excess areas are cut off. Then the windows and trim of the extension are decorated. They can be painted according to the overall tone of the room. At the final stage of creating a veranda, the ceiling is hemmed and the door is hung.
Interior decoration of the veranda
When the main work is completed, you can begin finishing the veranda premises. The inside of the lining is coated with polyurethane varnish. The material should be slightly lighter than the floor. It is better to make the ceiling white. The owner chooses lighting and furniture in accordance with his preferences and capabilities. The photo shows an interesting option for finishing the veranda from the inside.
Building a veranda at the dacha is a rather lengthy process that includes several important stages. The basis of any capital building is the foundation, so you should devote a lot of time and effort to it. Usually for a summer veranda it is enough to build a columnar base. It is able to cope with serious loads, providing good ventilation of the space under the extension.
conclusions
To create an extension you will need to prepare the necessary tools. An important stage of work is the interior decoration of the veranda. Its style should match the design of the main building. Open verandas can be used as a place to relax, but in bad weather or cold times you will have to go into the house. If the veranda is closed, it is better to insulate it. For this, penoplex or polystyrene foam is used. Such materials perfectly protect the veranda from the cold.
When preparing materials for walls and roofs, you should learn about their properties. For example, you should not use wooden products with a moisture content of more than 20%. In addition, they should be treated with impregnations against rot and fire. Such measures will extend the service life of individual elements of the veranda.
The roof of the veranda should have a slope of about 12 degrees so that precipitation flows freely into the drainage system. It is better to choose soft tiles for the roofing of the extension. In this case, there will be practically no noise during rain.
A dacha is a break from the hustle and bustle of the city. Some people associate this place with the summer harvest, while others associate it with a family vacation spot. It is the association of a dacha with a cozy relaxation corner that leads to thoughts about building a spacious veranda, where you can sit perfectly and enjoy clean air, silence or the amazing singing of small birds.
What it is?
In fact, the veranda at the dacha is a kind of continuation of the house, but it is an unheated room. For its construction, you can hire workers, or you can show your creativity and imagination on a budget. The room can be closed (glazed), or it can be built open for better merging with nature.
Where to start? The first thing is your imagination and desire to do it yourself! The second important step to starting any construction will be drawing a sketch of the desired object. You make your dream come true in the project. Determine what kind of veranda will be: separate from the house or adjacent to it. You definitely need to legalize your project, after which you will receive a construction permit.
The veranda must match the house, that is, if the house is made of wood, then the veranda is built from the same material. The same approach applies to a brick house. Before constructing the walls, the foundation is first poured.
Which foundation to choose
Tape is easy to manufacture, but it requires physical strength, and the material consumption is greater. It is used for heavy buildings made of concrete, brick, stone; the floors are monolithic, metal, reinforced concrete; when the soil is heterogeneous and there is a possibility of soil subsidence.
Columnar is a system of reinforced concrete or monolithic pillars at the corners of the perimeter, which are tied with beams for greater stability, the distance between them is 1.5-2.5 meters. The depth is more than 100 cm, for this you must know the depth of soil freezing. In terms of the investment of labor and materials, it is more economical than the belt one.
Pile - used in low-rise construction, on soils that require deep immersion or in places where there is a possibility of frequent flooding. They install piles of wood, metal, reinforced concrete and top them with a grillage (the upper part of the pile foundation). It distributes the entire load evenly across all piles. The distance from the ground should be 1-2 meters.
Walls and roof - what and how to make them from
Now you need to decide on the walls of the veranda, that is, build a frame:
- metal - a metal corner is used, which is covered with wood;
- wooden - basically these are beams or logs in the form of a cylinder, impregnated with an antiseptic composition and fire retardant impregnation.
Make a double bottom trim for later cutting in the joists on which the veranda flooring will lie. Connect the strapping with a straight lock at the corners and cut in the posts. Each node must be secured and reinforced with bolts. Mount the top frame with rafters on racks and connect the upper ends to the beam under the roof of the house. Secure it all together with bolts. The dimensions must be selected so that the roof of the veranda is located under the roof of the house.
The roof is usually made pitched, adjacent to the roof of the house. It is laid on a sheathing made of boards at a distance of 300-350 mm. To prevent water from getting into the veranda during rain, the roof of the house should hang about 5 cm above the roof of the attached room. The length of the roof canopy boards, to protect against slanting rain, should be 120 cm greater than the distance between the outer rafters.
The roof is covered with different materials:
- Made from natural materials.
- Metal tiles.
- Steel.
- Slate.
- Polycarbonate.
- Roll roofing products.
Floor, windows, doors
Lay the floor on logs, which you must level using a level, and secure the boards to them. They must first be dried to prevent floor deformation. The guide board is placed opposite the entrance to the room. The distance to the wall is about 12 cm. You need to attach it to the joists with a screw as close to the wall as possible in order to cover it with a plinth. All these details are checked by level. Then the next boards are laid and adjusted with a striking block to obtain tight joints. The installation process for the following boards is similar. After the floor is laid, a baseboard is attached along its edge.
Installing windows or not is up to you. If you want to close the veranda, then you need to provide space for windows. They can be alternated: deaf ones with those that open. Since the veranda is summer, you can install single glass.
Doors can also be placed on any side, but for fire safety purposes they must open to the street. There are also many options to choose from: glazed, solid, combined.
You can begin to select the interior of the veranda only after the construction work has been completed. Only then can you see the final result and which style will suit you best. You may not need any special style decisions. Just arrange the sofa, rocking chair, table, chairs or benches so that you feel comfortable and comfortable.
The veranda allows you to profitably expand the useful space of a residential building. In a properly constructed and well-equipped extension, you can comfortably spend time both in the warm and cold seasons.
It is best to build the extension so that it covers the entrance door to the main house. Therefore, you will not be able to build a veranda on any desired side of the already finished main building. Otherwise, the veranda will be separated from the main building and you will have to enter it from across the street.
The dimensions of the extension are selected individually. For a family of 3-6 people, a veranda measuring 3x4 m is enough. It is also important to take into account the general view from the street. For example, if you live in a large two- or even three-story house, and the veranda is very small, the overall architectural ensemble will turn out to be inharmonious. For compact houses, you can safely add verandas the width of the entire wall of the main building - it looks great.
Important note! Regardless of the chosen dimensions and the overall features of the extension, its construction must first be legalized. To do this, you must have a project on hand. You can find it in open sources or order it from a specialized company.
Take your project to your local architectural department. Department employees will study your project, make the necessary changes and issue a permit. Keep in mind that on average it takes about 2-3 months to review and approve a project, so it is best to resolve this issue in the winter, before the start of the construction season.
Construction site marking
We are starting to prepare our construction site.
First step. We remove about 150 mm of the top layer of soil from the perimeter of the future building and take it to the flower beds, vegetable garden or other place.
Second step. Align the resulting depression.
Third step. We carry out the markings. First, focusing on the project, we drive in metal or wooden pins at the corners of the site, then in the same way we drive in intermediate pegs every 1-1.5 m, and then we pull a rope between the pins. We will use it to guide us in the process of arranging the foundation.
Making the foundation
Most often, verandas are built on columnar or strip type foundations. The depth of the support is assumed to be equal to the depth of the foundation of the main house. It is strongly not recommended to connect the main support to the foundation of the extension, because these structures will have widely varying weights. Consequently, the degree of their shrinkage will also vary. To prevent a heavy house from dragging down a relatively light extension, the latter must be built on a separate foundation. To do this, leave approximately a 3-4 cm gap between the foundations.
Important point! When choosing the type of foundation, consider, first of all, the soil characteristics in your region and the total mass of the veranda. For the construction of heavy structures on heaving soils, monolithic ones are best suited. Lightweight structures, for example, made of wood, can be built on columnar supports.
Tape base
A strip-type foundation is optimally suited for the further construction of a veranda on it from building blocks or bricks. The thickness of the base, as already noted, is maintained equal to the thickness of the foundation of the house. If this is a new building, keep the thickness at 70-80 cm.
First step. We dig a trench around the perimeter of the walls of the extension.
Second step. We level the bottom and walls of the trench using wooden boards or panels to the height of the future concrete support.
Third step. We successively fill the bottom of the trench with a 10-centimeter layer of sand and the same layer of crushed stone, making sure to compact each ball of backfill.
Fourth step. We lay a reinforcing mesh of 10-12 mm bars. The recommended mesh size is 10x10 cm. This way the base will be as strong as possible.
Fifth step. We pour concrete prepared from a portion of cement, three portions of sand, 4-5 portions of crushed stone and water.
Carefully level the fill and leave it to dry and gain strength for 3-4 weeks. In hot weather, we pour concrete every day to prevent it from cracking.
Columnar base
Perfect for a veranda made of timber or polycarbonate. It is recommended to make holes for posts with a depth of 80-110 cm. If the veranda is small (up to about 3x4 m), it will be enough to install supports in the corners. However, professional builders recommend installing intermediate posts for any size veranda. We maintain the distance between supports within 0.8-1 m.
First step. We dig holes in the places where the pillars will be poured. The most convenient way to do this is with a drill.
Second step. We fill the bottom of each depression with a 15-20 cm layer of sand. Additionally, it is recommended to pour approximately 10 cm of crushed stone. We compact each layer.
Third step. Pour the concrete to the ground level and let it harden.
Fourth step. We coat the finished concrete supports with bitumen.
Fifth step. We fill the gaps between the ground and the supports with sand.
Sixth step. We erect the above-ground part of the pillars from brick. We make the height equal to the height of the foundation of the main house.
Making a subfloor
The floor can be wooden or concrete. For example, in a frame veranda made of wooden beams, a wooden floor would be more appropriate. Concrete pouring will best fit into a brick extension.
We make a wooden subfloor like this:
- We fix the beam of the lower trim on the foundation. We use suitable fasteners, for example, anchors. To connect the beams directly, we first make samples at the places of their joints and additionally fasten them with galvanized nails;
- We attach wooden logs to the bottom trim. We keep the step at 50 cm - this way the floor will definitely not fall through. We use the connection option described above;
- fill the space between the joists with expanded clay;
- We make the flooring from unedged boards or plywood about 50 mm thick. We attach the flooring elements to the joists with galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.
We make a concrete screed like this:
- fill the base with a 10-centimeter layer of sand;
- pour a layer on top;
- lay the reinforcing mesh. For the floor of the veranda, a mesh of rods with a diameter of 6-8 mm with cells of 25x25 cm is sufficient;
- pour concrete.
Important! The screed should be as even as possible. We carry out the work with the obligatory use of a level.
Building a wooden veranda
Basic properties of the material
Wood is one of the most popular and ancient building materials. Even after the appearance on the market of all kinds of blocks and other low-cost and easy-to-arrange elements, wood practically did not lose ground.
Almost anyone can handle the construction of a simple frame wooden veranda. You just need to properly mount the frame posts and cover them with shields, clapboard or other suitable material.
The undeniable advantages of wood are its environmental friendliness, beautiful appearance and relatively low weight. The latter property allows you to abandon the construction of expensive and difficult to construct foundations.
The main disadvantage of a wooden veranda is its fire hazard - installing a barbecue in such an extension or in the immediate vicinity of it is a very important undertaking that requires taking into account many nuances and details. Therefore, it is better to move the source of fire somewhere further outside the wooden veranda.
Another significant disadvantage of wood is its poor tolerance to high humidity, which is why the material requires serious pre-treatment with special ones. Without such preparation, the wood will rot very quickly.
Construction order
To build the frame, we use high-quality wooden beams with a cross-section of 100x100 mm. We already have the bottom trim and subfloor, so we continue to work, adhering to the instructions below.
First step. We cut grooves in the beam of the lower trim for installing vertical supports. We maintain a half-meter step.
Second step. We install vertical racks. To fasten the frame elements we use staples and screws or nails.
Important! The roof of our veranda, as noted, will be sloping. Therefore, we make the vertical beam installed at the bottom point of the slope 50 cm below the opposite posts.
Third step. We mount the beam of the upper trim. On higher racks no questions will arise - we perform the connections in exactly the same way as in the previous stages.
When installing the strapping of lower supports, we do the following: first we connect the pillars longitudinally with a strapping beam, and then we fix the transverse crossbars connecting the high and low posts at the height of the low posts. We fasten the crossbars to the high posts using pre-created samples and nails.
Fourth step. The top trim is ready. The resulting slope will allow us to lay the rafters for the roof. Additionally, we nail a girder near the roof slope. To fasten the beam to all supports, we use anchor bolts. For greater reliability, it is recommended to fasten the strapping beams with transverse boards or beams, if possible and necessary (we focus on the weight of the future roofing material). We will attach racks and struts to them for greater strength of the rafter system.
Fifth step. We install in increments of 50 cm. For this we use a wooden beam with a section of 100x200 mm. We connect structural elements using any of the previously discussed methods.
Sixth step. We cover the frame. Lining is perfect for interior cladding, and siding or other material for exterior cladding. We lay layers of hydro- and thermal insulation between the external and internal cladding materials. We attach the film to the frame. The position of the insulation is fixed by transverse slats. The finishing material is also attached to them. When covering, do not forget to leave openings for windows and doors.
Prices for various types of timber
Brick verandas
Basic information about building materials
Brick is excellent for constructing permanent verandas. A building made from this material will be cool in the summer and, provided the insulation is properly insulated, warm in the winter. Brickwork is durable, fireproof and easy to maintain.
The main disadvantage of a brick building is its heavy weight. Such structures are built exclusively on , which does not have the best effect on the total cost of construction.
The procedure for constructing a veranda
The foundation is ready and waterproofed, the screed is poured, the base is level and does not require any additional preparatory measures. Let's start laying out the walls.
We first select the appropriate type of masonry. The simplest options, perfect for constructing a veranda yourself, are as follows:
- spoon masonry. The final wall thickness will be 120 mm;
- bonded masonry. Wall thickness – 250 mm;
- chain laying. Allows you to obtain walls with a thickness of 380 mm.
First step. We attach a mooring cord to two opposite ends of the foundation with a tie. It should run along the edge of the base.
Second step. We place the corner bricks along the cord, and then fill the space between them in accordance with the chosen masonry method. To fasten building elements we use standard cement mortar.
Third step. We check the evenness of the first row and similarly lay out the walls to the required height, not forgetting to leave openings for doors and windows.
Important! will be inclined, so we make the wall at the bottom of the slope, as well as the side walls adjacent to it, a row lower compared to the wall supporting the top of the roof.
Having laid out the last row of walls, we arrange an armored belt. To do this, we fix formwork about 70 mm high on each wall along the upper surface of the walls, place anchor bolts in the corners, lay reinforcing bars and pour concrete.
We let the concrete harden, and then attach a strapping of wooden beams with a section of 10x10 cm to the anchor bolts. The further procedure for arranging the rafter system remains similar to the situation with
If the veranda is planned to be used throughout the year, the walls can be laid in two rows, filling the gap between the rows with thermal insulation material. With single masonry, insulation, moisture insulation and interior finishing are carried out by analogy with a wooden veranda. Exterior decoration is at your discretion. You can simply carefully unstitch the seams and call it a day.
| Masonry size | Length, L | Width, V | Height, N | Number of bricks excluding thickness mortar joint, PC. | Number of bricks taking into account thickness mortar joint 10 mm, PC. |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 m3 single brick masonry | 250 | 120 | 65 | 512 | 394 |
| 1 m3 thickened brick masonry | 250 | 120 | 88 | 378 | 302 |
| 250 | 120 | 65 | 61 | 51 | |
| 1 sq. m of masonry in half a brick (masonry thickness 120 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 45 | 39 |
| 1 sq. m of masonry in one brick (masonry thickness 250 mm) | 250 | 120 | 65 | 128 | 102 |
| 250 | 120 | 65 | 189 | 153 | |
| 1 sq. m of masonry of one and a half bricks (masonry thickness 380 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 140 | 117 |
| 250 | 120 | 65 | 256 | 204 | |
| 1 sq. m of masonry in two bricks (masonry thickness 510 mm) | 250 | 120 | 88 | 190 | 156 |
| | 250 | 250 | 65 | 317 | 255 |
| 1 sq. m of masonry in two and a half bricks (masonry thickness 640 mm) | 250 | 250 | 88 | 235 | 195 |
Prices for construction and facing bricks
Construction and facing bricks
Making a veranda roof
And the rafters are installed. All that remains is to make the sheathing, install the insulating layers and lay the finishing roofing material.
The lathing can be solid (for rolled materials) and sparse (for sheet roofing). We make continuous sheathing from OSB boards. To do this, we attach them to the rafters with a 1-centimeter gap. We fasten the sparse sheathing beams at a pitch recommended by the manufacturer of the selected roofing material. On average, it is 30-35 cm. To attach the sheathing to the rafters, we use galvanized nails or self-tapping screws.
We fill the cells between the sheathing beams with mineral wool for thermal insulation. We lay a waterproofing film on top and attach it to the sheathing using a stapler with staples. In the case of arranging a continuous sheathing, we fix the thermal insulation from the inside of the room. We secure the insulation boards using transverse slats, nailing them to the sheathing.
Finally, all that remains is to mount. It is better that it matches the roof covering of the main house. For the rest, we focus on our preferences and available budget.
Finishing the floor
If the subfloor is wooden, we lay insulation in the space between them and fill the flooring from edged boards to the joists. We paint and varnish the boards.
You can also install a boardwalk on top of the concrete screed, similar to the previous method, or lay another material of your choice, for example, linoleum.
Finally, all that remains is the doors, furnishing at your discretion and connecting lighting if necessary. We won't pull the wiring. It is enough to remove the extension cord from the house and turn on the necessary lighting fixtures.
Good luck!
Video - DIY veranda
This is an extension to your home that allows you to enjoy nature while still being in the comfort of your own home. It can be made of brick or wood, and we offer you the most elegant and least labor-intensive option - a veranda made of.
Location
First of all, you need to develop a construction project, and for this you need to clearly understand why you need it, what kind of veranda you want, what kind of view you will see from it. The veranda can be used as a hall, a dining room, a winter garden, or a living room.
- on the corner;
- from the end;
- from the front of the house.
If making another doorway is not a problem for you, keep in mind that a good place for a veranda will be on the western or eastern wall of the house, then it will be well lit and at the same time protected from the summer heat. Some even build a wraparound veranda around the perimeter of the entire house. Important! Do not place the entrance to the veranda opposite the entrance to the house-because of this, there will always be a draft on the veranda.
Next you need to decide on the size. Verandas along the entire length of the wall of the house look good, but smaller ones can be built. But you shouldn’t build verandas that extend beyond the length of the walls of the house - they look too heavy.
The most common shape for such an extension is rectangular, but it can also be in the form of a polygon or circle. 
The veranda can be open (without walls) or closed. If you install sliding panels, a closed building can easily turn into an open one if necessary.
List of materials and tools
To build a veranda, you will need the following tools:
- bucket;
- concrete mixer or tub;
- hammer;
- hacksaw;
- level and water level;
- cord to align the posts;
- screwdriver;
- drill;
- drill of the appropriate diameter;
- perforator;
- electric saw;
- electric plane;
- jigsaw;
- roulette;
- pencil;
- square
You will also need the following materials:
- concrete (cement, sand, crushed stone or gravel);
- brick, metal posts or beams;
- boards and nails for formwork;
- water;
- waterproofing on;
- beams 100x100 mm;
- floor board 30x100 mm;
- aluminum or polycarbonate profile;
- screws and special screws for polycarbonate;
- nails 100 mm, nails with a small head;
- staples;
- metal corners;
- anchor bolts;
- dowels;
- slats 30 mm;
- wooden lining;
- baseboard;
- vapor barrier;
- aluminum adhesive tape;
- insulation.
The veranda differs from the terrace in the presence
If you are building a veranda with your own hands from polycarbonate, then since it is a fairly light material, the foundation can be poured using the columnar method. However, the final choice of method for pouring the foundation depends on the condition of the soil (frozen, swampy).
If you want a small extension, then the number of columns will be 4 pieces (1 in each corner). If you are planning a large veranda, the posts should be placed every 50 cm. 
Step-by-step instructions for pouring the foundation of a veranda with your own hands are as follows:
- Dismantle the porch and the canopy over it.
- Collect all trash.
- Remove the top layer of soil (15 cm).
- Mark locations for the posts.
- Dig holes for the posts with a depth equal to the depth of the foundation of the house.
- Pour 10 cm of sand at the bottom of the hole, and 10 cm of crushed stone or gravel on top of it.
- Build formwork of appropriate height from wooden boards.
- Pour concrete to ground level or to the entire required height of the foundation.
- If you have chosen asbestos, metal or wooden posts, then before pouring concrete, you need to insert these posts, covering them with solutions to protect the metal or wood.
- Allow the concrete to dry thoroughly, occasionally watering it with water if the weather is hot outside.
- Remove the formwork.
- Fill the distance between the concrete and the ground with sand or small crushed stone.
- If you chose brick columns, then lay the brick to the required height.
- Align the height of all columns, taking into account that the floors in the house must be 30 cm higher than in the extension, otherwise its roof will not fit under the roof of the house (relevant for one-story mansions).
Frame
Let's look at the process of installing a frame for a veranda with our own hands step by step:
- Waterproof the foundation using roofing felt or bitumen, spreading it over the entire foundation.
- Insert the anchor into the posts, having previously drilled a hole.
- Mark the first outside corner of the porch by driving a nail.
- Starting from the first nail, mark all 4 corners of the building, carefully measuring the right angle (90 °).
- Perform the bottom trim (the first layer), laying out prepared 100x100 mm beams and joining them at the corners using the “half-tree” method (when half of the beam is cut out at the ends of two beams using an electric planer). If the beams are not connected at a corner, the beams can simply be connected to each other.
- It is better to lay insulation between the beams.
- Secure the connections with metal corners or staples.
- Use a water level to check how smooth the binding is.
- Use a square to check that the corners are not skewed.
- Screw the frame to the foundation with anchor bolts.
- Check again with a water level and a square to see if the harness is warped.
- Cut holes for the posts. A distance of 50 cm is considered optimal; the placement of windows and doors must be taken into account.
- Install the racks, attaching them to the bottom frame using brackets. The racks must be embedded strictly vertically; this can be easily checked using a level.
- Before installing the top trim, so that the racks do not warp, install temporary spacers - nail the slats between the racks.
- In the beams for the top trim, cut holes for the posts.
- Using staples, attach the top trim to the posts.
- Remove the spacers.
Roof
The veranda roof can be:
- single-slope if the extension is attached to the house by a wide part;
- gable when the veranda is attached perpendicular to the house.
In order to cover the veranda, you must follow the following procedure:
- Make markings using a level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
- Attach the timber to the wall with anchor bolts.
- Make grooves for the rafters in the timber and in the top trim.
- Install the rafters using the “half-tree” method from the wall to the top frame so that they protrude beyond the frame (otherwise the rain will flow directly down the walls of the veranda). The distance between the centers of the rafters is maintained at 101 cm. The angle between the rafters and the wall, between the rafters and the top frame must be straight.
- Attach the rafters using metal brackets, corners, and nails.
- Make a frame using aluminum or polycarbonate profiles, screwing it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.
- Attach polycarbonate sheets with self-tapping screws or fixing profiles.
Important! In order for water to drain, the timber should be positioned above the top trim of the frame, making an angle of approximately 40° , but not less than 25° .
If the roof for the veranda is designed in the form of an arch, aluminum or polycarbonate profiles can be used instead of wooden beams. Despite the fact that polycarbonate is a fairly convenient material to work with, some nuances must be observed when installing it:
- Do not remove the protective film until the end of installation, so as not to deform it.
- If an aluminum profile is used, then the edges of the polycarbonate must be sealed with a special aluminum adhesive tape.
- Self-tapping screws must be specially designed for working with polycarbonate; they have a special gasket that does not allow the material to deform.
- The grooves for self-tapping screws need to be drilled a little wider, since polycarbonate can contract or expand with temperature changes.
- For the same reason, you should not screw the screw too tightly.
- Empty channels inside the polycarbonate should be positioned parallel to the roof slope.
- It is better to use a jigsaw to cut sheets.
Important! Take your time and don't be too slow when cutting polycarbonate sheets-If the speed of the jigsaw is high, they can melt, but if the speed is too low,-burst.
Floors and walls
Floors are best made of wood, using special 30x100 mm boards. The flooring is laid in the following order:
- Keep the boards indoors for 24 hours.
- Make markings using a water level and drill holes for anchors in the timber and wall of the house.
- Attach the beam to the wall of the house with anchors.
- Use a water level to check that there are no distortions between the timber and the lower frame.
- Install the logs (base beams under the floor) perpendicular to how you will lay the floor boards, maintaining a distance of up to 1 m.
- Check for correct installation using a water level.
- Attach the logs using staples, corners, and nails.
- Check with a water level that there are no distortions.
- Lay out a thermal insulation layer.
- Install the floorboard, securing it with self-tapping screws twice as long as the width of the board.
- If necessary, the boards must be sanded.
- Treat the boards with special solutions.
- Cover with varnish or paint.
Did you know? To make the floor warmer, you can attach a subfloor before installing the joists, drill the joists to the subfloor, and lay insulation between the joists. A finished floor is laid on top of the insulation.
You can also make a concrete floor and install it on it.
To build polycarbonate walls on the veranda with your own hands, adhere to the following sequence:
- If desired, an aluminum or polycarbonate profile can be attached to wooden posts.
- Prepare polycarbonate sheets, cut with a jigsaw if necessary.
- Glue the edges of the sheets with a special aluminum tape.
- Starting from the left edge, attach the polycarbonate sheets to the racks with special screws so that the empty channels inside the sheet are perpendicular to the floor.
- Attach a special profile at the junction of the sheets.
Interior decoration of the veranda
To maintain harmony in the finishing, in combination with a wooden floor, it is better to decorate the wall of the house with wood. If the house is wooden, then additional finishing is not required; if not, you can use boards or wooden lining for finishing. The sequence of actions when laying the lining is as follows:
- Keep the paneling indoors for 1 day.
- Drill holes for dowels.
- Using dowels, install vertically 30 mm wide slats every 1 m.
- Use a level to check for distortions.
- Attach a vapor barrier (plastic film, foil, roofing felt) to the slats with self-tapping screws.
- Attach the horizontal slats to the vertical ones with self-tapping screws. The bottom rail should be 5 cm above the floor, and the top rail should be 5 cm below the top trim. The slats around windows and doors should be placed at the same distance.
- Check the installation using a water level.
- Nail the first strip of lining to the batten with small-headed nails. If you want to lay the lining perpendicular to the floor, then the first strip is nailed near the corner, if parallel, then at the top.
- Use a level to check the installation.
- Next, nail down the remaining strips, checking after each for any distortions.
- Complete the installation by installing the baseboard.
Important! You need to nail the lining in the place where the connecting strip begins, further from the edge, driving in nails at an oblique angle.
Windows and doors
If the walls of the veranda are built of wood or brick, then you can insert windows made of monolithic polycarbonate that will slide apart. For this:
- At the top of the window, attach a guide along which the window will move with self-tapping screws. Doors in sliding wardrobes move along such guides.
- The guide can also be screwed at the bottom of the window, then the window fastening will be more rigid.
- Cut the polycarbonate sheet to the required size.
- Attach special rollers to the sheet to ensure mobility.
- Insert the structure into the guides.
Did you know? Glass windows are only 20% more transparent than polycarbonate windows, but polycarbonate is 20 times stronger than glass.
Sliding doors made of polycarbonate are installed in the same way. Using the same technology, you can make a completely sliding wall by screwing the guide to the top frame.
Depending on the type of guide, windows and doors can open in one direction, in both directions, or fold like an accordion.
By building a polycarbonate veranda with your own hands, you will not only give a more noble look to your home, but you will also be able to enjoy the sunrise or sunset, drops of falling rain, landscapes, with a cup of coffee or tea in your hand, without suffering from unpleasant weather conditions and saving on payment workers' labor.
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