What you need to know about installing a metal roof: selection of materials and stages of work. Step-by-step technology for installing a metal tile roof Installing a metal tile roof instructions

Metal tiles are a material that is used for roofing along with such popular materials as slate, bituminous shingles and galvanized sheet. Excellent technical characteristics make it an excellent option for any home. And although they usually prefer to invite professionals to carry out this kind of work, let’s look at how to install metal tiles yourself: step-by-step instructions and some recommendations from specialists.

A tile roof, especially if it is made of metal, is one of the best options for decorating a home. Experts and users themselves note many positive aspects of using this material, including:

• light weight (4-6 kg/m²), which ensures very little load on the roof;

It is distinguished by an affordable price, long service life and expressive appearance.

• simple installation procedure and ease of repair work;
• wide range of color solutions;
• the material is environmentally friendly and does not contain any harmful components;
• the coating is equipped with stiffening ribs, which makes it very durable. Provided that all installation recommendations are followed, the surface can withstand a load of 200 kg/m², even if 0.5 mm thick sheets were used;
• the material is extremely temperature resistant. It is not afraid of any changes, and the rate of thermal expansion is minimal.

There is practically no need to talk about the disadvantages of metal tiles, with the possible exception of increased noise levels on days when it rains. But this can also be dealt with if you first lay a layer of glass wool.

Criteria for choosing a material for a metal roof: photo examples

Before you begin considering the installation process of this roofing material, you need to decide exactly how the material should be used.

Looking at photos of roofs on which metal tiles look attractive is far from the best method in this case, since in the selection process you need to pay attention to the list of additional elements, as well as the markings provided by the manufacturer. Let's look at what the buyer needs to know.

First of all, you need to pay attention to the presence in the price list of such additional elements as:

• different types of skates: simple, figured and with aerators;
• special passage units for installing pipes, hatches, ventilation, antennas, as well as lighting windows;
• elements designed to ensure the safety of surface maintenance - walking bridges, ladders, snow guards;
• internal and external valleys;
• other necessary elements are wall profiles, pediments, metal tile eaves, the installation of which is an obligatory part of the roofing arrangement.

Important! The presence of all of the listed elements among the seller’s offers is an indicator of the level of the company that produces metal tiles, which may also indicate the quality of the products themselves.

In addition, it is worth paying attention to studying the markings, which must be present on each certified material. Typically, production indicates all the characteristics of the material itself, as well as the level of quality of the anti-corrosion coating that is applied on top of the sheet.

So, here is what information you can glean by reading the information provided on the back of the metal tile sheet:

• presence of polymers;
• how much zinc is per 1 m² of sheet;
• production date and warranty period for the use of the material;
• manufacturer's name;
• sheet thickness.

During the visual inspection, you need to pay attention to the integrity of the protective layer, both on the front and back sides of the sheet, as well as the presence of all required markings.

Important! If we are talking about material purchased from a large manufacturer, then the marking will also contain information about the grade of steel used.

Installation of metal tiles: step-by-step instructions for independent work

Considering the fact that the price of installing metal tiles has never been low, many people prefer to try to do everything they need on their own. Although initially it is worth familiarizing yourself with how much professional installation of metal tiles costs. The price of work per m2 starts from 250 rubles and can increase depending on the complexity.

The process of installing a metal tile roof, the technology of which will be discussed below, consists of several stages, each of which has its own significance and must be carried out properly.

Laying metal tiles: preparatory stage and calculations

The first thing that needs to be done if a decision has been made to independently carry out the procedure for laying metal tiles on the roof surface is to carry out preliminary calculations. This is necessary in order to determine how much of what materials will be required and, accordingly, avoid unnecessary costs.

Let's start by clarifying some basic concepts so that in the future the question of how exactly a metal tile roof is constructed does not arise. If you look at a roof that has already been covered with this material, you can see that it consists of rows that run across the slope and waves. The distance from one row to another is called a step.

There is such a thing as a “model”. This name refers to sheets of metal tiles, the pitch of which is 35 cm, and the number of waves is 6. Sheets of modules 1, 3, 6 and 10 can be found on sale.

Helpful advice! In addition to purchasing sheets of standard sizes, you can consider the option of individually manufacturing metal tiles to order. Of course, it will cost noticeably more, but this way you can get exactly the material that is right for you. The main thing to remember is that the length of one sheet should not be less than 45 cm or more than 7 m.

In the process of choosing the appropriate sheet size, you need to be guided by the fact that after installation the joints and waves converge in such a way as to form a single coating along the entire length of the slope. It is quite easy to calculate the amount of material, taking into account the length of the roof and sheets.

When purchasing metal tiles, it is important to pay attention to some additional elements that are included in the kit and allow for proper installation. This includes steel strips 2 m long, as well as steel sheets 200x125 cm, which must have the same color as the tiles.

In the process of purchasing metal tiles, you need to make sure that these auxiliary elements are available in sufficient quantity and meet all requirements. For example, the standard bar inclination level is 30 degrees. Although other options are possible at the request of buyers - from 11 to 70 degrees.

Important! 11 degrees is the minimum slope at which metal tiles can be installed.

Materials and tools for laying metal tiles with your own hands

In order to install metal tiles with your own hands, you need to take care in advance of having some tools and materials that will allow you to carry out all the work as simply and efficiently as possible:

• screwdriver;
• electric drill;
• scissors for cutting metal;
• yardstick;
• hammer;
• marker;
• mounting tape.

It is also worth taking care of the presence of a stepladder and means intended for personal protection of the face and hands (goggles, gloves).

As for the consumables that will be required to prepare the base and fasten the metal tiles, this list includes: waterproofing material, roofing strips, tiles, as well as an aeroroller, strips for the ridge and ends, a guide board and 2.5x10 cm boards. itself, you will also need fastening elements - self-tapping screws and special sealing washers for them.

Helpful advice! To give the coating an attractive appearance, decorative overlays should be used.

How to attach metal tiles: stages of preparatory work

The low weight of metal tiles allows for a minimum amount of preparatory work to be carried out before proceeding to installation. Nevertheless, it is still necessary to prepare a suitable foundation. Since there is no need for a reinforced base, an ordinary wooden one made from slats is quite suitable.

The procedure is extremely simple - based on the pitch of the selected metal tile, slats are placed on the surface. It is important to maintain a uniform distance so that during the process of attaching the roofing material you do not have to screw screws into the void. Another important factor to consider when installing the sheathing is the location of the windows. It is highly undesirable to place rafters directly above the windows.

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Thermal insulation during installation of a metal roof

When it comes to installing a roof made of metal tiles, the thermal insulation material is designed to solve two problems at once - to reduce heat loss and also to reduce the noise level produced by raindrops hitting the surface. To do this, a vapor barrier material is first laid on the rafters, and then a layer of thermal insulation. In this case, it is important that the thickness of the layer does not exceed 25 cm. An antioxidant film is attached to the top, fixing it with wooden blocks directly to the rafters.

Important! In order to ensure that precipitation flows into the drain, the material must be fixed with a small allowance (about 2 cm). Due to such a small sagging there will be no problems with water drainage.

This “pie” is the most effective roof thermal insulation system that metal tile installation technology allows. As for the choice of thermal insulation material, there are several options that depend on cost, quality and manufacturer.

Installation of a metal tile roof: basic operating rules

Before you begin work directly related to laying metal tiles, you need to familiarize yourself with some rules and concepts that will allow you to avoid common mistakes and do everything necessary with the highest possible quality:

1. There are two ways to lay sheets of metal tiles: from right to left and from left to right. In the first case, each subsequent sheet must be laid overlapping the previous one, and in the second, the previous sheet must be overlapped.
2. There is no need to attach each sheet completely at once. Before screwing the metal tiles, it is best to lay four sheets and lightly grab them with fasteners so that they hold. Then you need to make sure that they are located as needed and, if necessary, trim them. For final fastening, use one self-tapping screw, which passes through all the sheets.
3. The service life of the entire roof greatly depends on the quality of the fasteners used. Therefore, due attention should be paid to the choice of self-tapping screws. It is important that they are galvanized and must have special seals on the heads that can hermetically fill the holes when the self-tapping screw is completely screwed into the hole.
4. In those places where several sheets were fastened with one fastener at once, one way or another, a seal will appear. In order to smooth it, it is necessary to cut off part of the corner, or you can straighten the capillary ditch, which is located under the stamping line.

Scheme of fastening metal tiles and other necessary elements

Certain rules also exist for the installation of other mandatory elements, without which no roof can do. Here are some recommendations regarding the installation scheme of metal tiles and other elements:

• the end strips must be fixed with an overlap, which should be about 2 cm. In this case, the size of the wave must be adjusted in accordance with the width of the slope. Otherwise, you may encounter the fact that the ridge will fit onto the pediment;
• for the cornice strip it is also necessary to have an overlap of 10 cm on the bottom bar of the sheathing, to which it is attached with nails;
• It is imperative to lay an additional layer of sealing material between the metal tile sheet and the roofing strip;
• for the arrangement of all elements located below the ridge (pipes and windows), sheets with one module are used. Typically, 2 pieces are required for each structural element;
• if the roof slope is sloping, then it is necessary to additionally install an aerial roller between the ridge strip and the material itself. This will prevent precipitation from penetrating under the ridge;

• The ridge must be fixed to the planks, which are located at the end of the entire structure. In this case, calculations must be carried out taking into account the required protrusion, which is 2-3 cm. Moreover, if you have to deal with a flat ridge, then the fastening is done with an overlap, and for semicircular elements according to the profile lines;
• It is necessary to study in advance the specifics of installing a drip line under metal tiles, and strictly follow all instructions.

Helpful advice! If you have to work with a roof whose inclination angle is more than 45 degrees, then it is worth carrying out calculations in advance that will allow you to determine whether it is possible to install a specific model of ridge strip in this case. This must be done, because otherwise, you may even need to completely replace the entire roofing covering.

It is also worth paying attention to the fact that, if necessary, the ridge strip can be slightly adjusted. That is, it can not be bent or straightened in order to ensure the most accurate repetition of the angle of the roof. You can learn more about such subtleties from the video instructions for installing metal tiles.

Installation of a valley when roofing with metal tiles

Another extremely important element, the installation rules of which cannot be neglected, is the valley. For each such element, an additional board must be attached. In this case, fastening must begin from the bottom, gradually moving upward and not forgetting about the need for overlap (in this case, 25-30 cm). Below the level of the cornice, be sure to cut off the bottom strip. Then follows the flanging, under which, as well as under the ridge, a seal is laid.

There remains a gap between the sheets and the axis, about 8-10 cm in size. Then, at a distance of approximately 1.5 cm from the stamping line, screws are screwed into the cut sheets. In this case, the fastening should be located 25 cm from the valley axis. If you follow this technology, then eventually the sheet, at the fastening point, will converge with the board on which the valley is located.

As for the installation of the valley below, it must begin before laying the roofing material. This is important to ensure that water flows directly into the additional element in the future.

Important! All errors in the process of calculations and measurements can lead to the appearance of gaps on the surface, and when heavy precipitation begins, the roof will most likely leak.

In order to cover those places where the cut sheets are visible, special decorative overlays are used. When installing them, you also need to remember a few simple rules:

• installation must be done from the bottom up;
• a sealant between the lining and the tile is not needed;
• the overlays must be overlapped by at least 10 cm;
• fastening elements (in this case self-tapping screws) should not cause damage to the valley.

Very often you have to deal with situations where the beginning and end of the valleys are located directly on the roof slope. As an example, we can consider the case when a dormer window is installed. In such a situation, it is necessary to lay a separate board, and for the window itself, a hole is made in the metal tile sheet. The cornice cut is covered with a plank. And sealing material must be laid along the walls.

How to lay metal tiles on a roof with a triangular or trapezoidal slope

If there is a need to cover a triangular or trapezoidal roof with metal tiles, then the installation of two additional bars will be required. They are installed along the fold line of the roof on both sides of the “ridge”. After this, the cornice board is mounted and the assembly of the sheathing begins. The sheathing pitch for metal tiles in this case is calculated in the same way as with the standard scheme. Then the cornice system is installed. They begin to lay the metal tiles only after all these procedures have been carried out, orienting and aligning the first sheet along the eaves strip.

Important! The distance between the corner sheets that were trimmed and installed near the “ridge” should not exceed 10 cm.

In order to install the ridge assemblies, you need to align the ridge strips relative to the angle of the “ridge”. If you use a straight ridge, it must be cut according to the existing corners, and for a semicircular ridge special plugs are provided. Moreover, it is best to use plastic models.

The ridge strip must be located strictly along the axis of the “ridge”. This is not too difficult a task if the slope angles are the same. If they have different sizes, then the task becomes significantly more complicated. Bright polyurethane foam is used as an auxiliary material, which allows you to determine the quality of the connection to the slopes.

Installation instructions for metal tiles "Monterrey"

A separate type of metal tile that is undoubtedly worthy of attention is Monterrey. This option is very popular due to some exceptional characteristics:

• extremely high level of material resistance to both ultraviolet radiation and other external factors, such as moisture and temperature;
• due to the layer of polymer applied to the surface of the tile, it does not lose its appearance throughout its entire service life;
• the material is extremely durable and hard, so it can withstand heavy loads;
• multilayer structure prevents corrosion;
• due to its low weight (one square meter of material weighs no more than 5 kg), the load on the rafter system is significantly reduced;
• using this option is a great savings, since there is no need to take a large step between fasteners. Initially, the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles provide for 35-centimeter steps.

This material has only two disadvantages - a large amount of residue after installation, as well as the need for high-quality sound insulation.

As for the features that you need to know about before laying Montrerey metal tiles, the following aspects play a role here:

• For different models of this material, it is necessary to prepare different lathing. So, for Standard or Super metal tiles, a step of 35 cm will be enough, but for Lux or Maxi, the step should be 40 cm;
• in the most difficult places of the roof (usually these are the internal corners, as well as the place where the chimney outlet is located), you need to make a continuous sheathing;
• on the junction strips, for the chimney exit, you need to install internal aprons;
• the installation instructions for Monterrey metal tiles do not provide for the use of material whose length is more than 4 m;
• Before installing the material, it is necessary to remove the protective coating, since this may be impossible to do in the future.

It is strictly forbidden to cut the sheet in the transverse direction, as this may lead to the profile becoming wrinkled. Also, under no circumstances should you use a grinder or other tools with abrasive wheels for this purpose.

Interesting! Cascade metal tiles also look great, the installation instructions for which are not too different from all the others. But the appearance of such a roof is considered more aesthetic and original.

How to properly care for a metal roof covering

After studying the step-by-step instructions for installing metal siding, you can carry out its high-quality installation. But in order for the material to last for many years, you need to know how to care for it.

The top layer of metal tiles is a polymer material that is designed to protect against corrosive processes. But as a result of constant exposure to external factors: precipitation, ultraviolet rays, as well as dust and dirt, this layer may begin to deteriorate, which will lead to the need to replace the coating. In order to avoid this phenomenon and extend the service life of the roof, it is necessary to regularly carry out the following procedures:

• remove dirt, dust and dry leaves from the surface using a damp fluffy brush;
• If we are talking about eliminating more complex stains, then it is permissible to use cleaning agents, but only those intended for polymer surfaces. The use of aggressive chemicals is strictly prohibited, as they destroy the protective layer and render the material unusable;
• cleaning of gutters is carried out using a stream of water, which should be directed from the ridge to the eaves;
• It is possible and necessary to clear snow, but this should only be done using tools that are not capable of causing damage to the delicate coating.

Provided that these simple but extremely important rules are followed, metal roofing can serve as a roofing material for about 50 years.

Common mistakes when installing a metal tile roof with your own hands

Inexperienced craftsmen often make mistakes, which can lead to the fact that the work will have to be partially, and sometimes completely, redone. Such carelessness can lead to additional expenses for the purchase of materials and consumables, so it is better to familiarize yourself with common mistakes in advance in order to prevent them:

• installation of metal tiles should be carried out exclusively in shoes with soft soles that cannot damage or scratch the coating;
• It is strictly forbidden to step on the crest of a wave, as this may cause deformation;
• Moreover, it is generally not recommended to step on the sheets with a full foot;
• when moving along the surface of the material, the leg should be placed parallel, and not perpendicular to the slope;
• You can only handle the material while wearing gloves.

Taking these simple rules into account, as well as acting in accordance with the technology for laying metal tiles, you can make a beautiful and reliable roof yourself.

Installation of snow guards on metal tiles: instructions and their varieties

A high level of safety is one of the main requirements for roofing made of any material, including metal tiles. For this purpose, special structures are used, which are called snow retainers. And the main goal is to ensure safe snow removal from the roof and prevent possible dangerous situations. In addition, they help maintain the original shape of the structure and prevent it from deforming under the weight of icy snow. And considering that its weight in some cases can exceed the weight of the roof itself, this problem is quite relevant.

Important! The issue of distributing the load that snow puts on the roof surface should be thought out at the stage of laying the foundation. This factor must be taken into account in the calculations.

It is almost impossible to predict exactly how snow will be distributed on the roof surface. This depends on many factors, including the angle of the roof, wind direction, etc. Therefore, in order to make calculations, a special formula is used:

Q = G×s

In this case, Q is the load exerted by the snow, G is the mass of snow on the flat surface of the roof, which can be found from a special table, and S is the correction factor, which depends on the angle of the roof: > 25° - 1, if 25- 60° - 0.7. If the degree of inclination is more than 60, then this is not taken into account, since in this case precipitation will definitely not linger on the surface.

In order to determine the G index, you need to refer to a special table that provides information regarding snow cover for each region of the country.

Installation of tubular snow guards on metal tiles: installation rules

As a rule, a pipe is used as a basis for snow retention, which is laid along the roof. In the case of using metal tiles as a roofing material, fixation is made in the places where the roof and load-bearing wall connect.

It is strictly forbidden to fix these elements on the eaves strip for metal tiles, as this may lead to the destruction of the entire system. Moreover, if you have to deal with a slope whose length is quite large, then the installation of snow retainers on metal tiles must be done in several rows at once to ensure a more reliable fixation.

The tubes themselves are mounted on the roof either end-to-end or in a checkerboard pattern. Special attention should be paid to installing such a system if the house has an attic. In this case, the installation must be carried out in such a way that a snow guard is located above each window opening. As for the distance from the edge of the roof to the elements, 40-50 cm is quite enough.

Lattice snow guards for metal roofing: how to attach correctly

Lattice snow retainers are considered the most effective, so those users who are interested in the quality of the installed systems preferentially choose this option. There are two types of such structures - ordinary and “royal”, although it is worth recognizing that there is not much difference between them, with the exception of the supports and the complexity of the lattice.

The high level of efficiency and safety of this type of snow retainer is due to their considerable height, due to which they may not be useful not only in winter when it comes to retaining snow, but also in summer. After all, it is during the warm season that all kinds of repair work are most often carried out.

Corner snow retainers for metal tiles

Corner snow guards are thin steel sheets that are coated with a polymer coating that protects them from corrosion. This is one of the most budget-friendly options, which at the same time allows you to effectively prevent snow from rolling off the roof. It is very easy to choose a model that will suit your existing metal tiles, since the range of color options is extremely large.

To fix the corner snow guards on the roof of a metal roof, screws and ordinary metal corners are used. Fastening is carried out on the upper wave of the sheet.

These are not all design options that can be used to prevent snow from rolling off the roof. Metal tiles are perfectly combined with many models and varieties of these elements, so there will definitely not be any problems with selection and fixation.

Installation of a roof window in metal tiles

It is believed that installing roof windows is not a task for beginners, and it is best to contact specialists who have adequate experience in this field. But this does not mean that it is impossible to do it yourself, especially if you use step-by-step instructions for dummies. The installation of metal tiles and the installation of the window itself in this case may well proceed without any problems.

First of all, it is worth paying attention to the fact that the maximum possible width of such a window should be 80-120 mm less than the opening between the rafters. In cases where the rafter pitch is very small, two small windows are installed in adjacent niches.

The installation of the window is carried out after the roofing “pie” is completely made, then you need to install the mounting beam, for which I use the same boards as for the rafter system. Then the frame is installed and the sashes are installed. It is very important to take care of high-quality waterproofing so that in the future the window does not become a source of precipitation entering the house.

Of course, you have to make some changes to the process of installing the sheathing under the metal tiles, and pay special attention to the issue of installing the ridge of the metal tiles if a roof window is planned. But all these difficulties are more than justified by the excellent result that awaits the owners as a result.

Installation of metal tiles: video instructions for beginners

For those who have never done such work before, it will be extremely useful to watch a video on how to attach metal tiles to a roof. A visual demonstration, as well as recommendations from specialists, will allow you to avoid mistakes and independently make a beautiful and reliable roof that will serve well for many years.

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If you start to delve into the essence of the issue, it turns out that the technology for installing metal tiles is not particularly complex. But before going to the roof, you need to familiarize yourself with some of the nuances of handling this roofing material. Ignorance of some little things can ultimately lead to irreparable results.

What is metal tile?

Before starting work, you must become thoroughly familiar with the material itself. What is the notorious metal tile? The basis of this material is a sheet of high-quality steel, the thickness of which varies depending on the brand of tile and is 0.4-0.8 mm. Profiled roofing steel (curved using a certain technology) is coated with a “passivating” composition of aluminum and zinc compounds. This composition is designed to protect the metal from corrosion. For greater reliability, the passivation layer is covered with a protective coating, and then with a layer of polymer material.

Depending on the polymer used, several tile coatings can be distinguished:

• polyester (glossy and matte);
• plastisol;
• pural.

Composite metal tiles can be included in a separate category. It is a tile made of steel sheet, the passivation layer of which is covered with natural stone chips. Basalt crumbs are most often used for these purposes. Unlike classic polymer-coated metal tiles, composite tiles are smaller in size and closely resemble ceramic tiles in their shape. That is why the classic technology of roofing with metal tiles differs significantly from laying composite metal tiles.

In order to protect the fragile polymer from mechanical damage, as well as from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation, it is coated with one or more layers of varnish. In addition, the varnish significantly increases the water-repellent properties of the tiles.

Calculation of metal tiles

One of the important points that technology includes is that, unlike slate and other roofing materials, tiles have distinct lower and upper edges. This means that the metal tile sheet must be oriented clearly in a certain direction.

Therefore, when buying roofing material, it is important to do this in advance, since in the future, if there is a shortage of material, it will be impossible to compose it from fragments, arranging them in any order. In addition, it is important to understand that metal tiles should be cut as little as possible. For rectangular slopes, in almost all cases you can select the required amount of material that will completely cover the slope. By combining sheets of tiles of three, six and twelve waves, you can organize the roof without cutting the tiles to width at all. If the sheets of tiles protrude beyond the slope along the length, then this is acceptable. In this case, a larger overhang allows you to more reliably protect the house from precipitation.

In order to facilitate the calculation of the amount of material required, it is better to calculate its dimensions not in millimeters, but in waves. In addition, serious tile manufacturers allow their customers to calculate the amount of metal tiles using online calculators. This greatly simplifies the procedure for selecting and purchasing material.

Cutting metal tiles

As mentioned above, the technology for constructing a metal roof should exclude cutting of material. This can easily be explained by the fact that when cutting, the polymer layer of the metal tile loses its integrity and, as a result, less protected areas appear. At such points, the likelihood of corrosion increases significantly (required reading: " ").

But there are still exceptions when cutting a sheet of metal tile is simply necessary. For example, when laying a hip or hip roof.

If there is a need to trim tiles, you must use the following tool:

• metal scissors (manual or electric);
• fine-toothed hacksaw for metal;
• jigsaw The blade should be designed for cutting thin metal;
• disk plate with carbide teeth.

It is strictly forbidden to use an angle grinder (grinder) to cut tiles. Under the influence of high temperatures that arise upon contact with the abrasive wheel, the polymer layer and the passivation layer simply burn out. In those places where the angle grinder has passed, corrosion processes begin to develop quite quickly. Because of this, metal tiles become unusable long before the end of the warranty period.

When cutting shingles, sawdust will be generated to varying degrees. They must be swept away very carefully with a soft brush. Care is necessary due to the fact that the protective layer is very sensitive to scratches. In addition, if the chips are not removed in time, they will begin to rust under the influence of moisture, which will negatively affect the appearance of the metal tiles. Due to the high sensitivity to scratches, installation of metal tiles should be carried out only in shoes with soft soles.

The preparatory stage includes:

• arrangement of insulation (roofing cake);
• installation of sheathing.

The waterproofing layer is designed to ensure the impermeability of the roof. Therefore, the quality of installation of the waterproofing film directly affects the quality of protection of the house from the most severe and prolonged rains.

Waterproofing is laid as follows:

• Depending on the slope of the slope, the direction is determined. If the roof slope has a slope of more than 1 to 5, then the waterproofing is laid parallel to the ridge. If the roof slope is less flat, then waterproofing is laid from the eaves to the ridge.
• The angle of the slope also affects the amount of overlap of the canvases on each other. So, with a slope of 15-30 degrees, individual strips of waterproofing are laid on top of each other with an overlap of 25 cm; with a slope of more than 30 degrees, the overlap is 15-20 cm. If work is carried out on a hip roof, then the overlap on the ridges should be increased by 5 cm .

There are two ways to install waterproofing:

• According to the first, the waterproofing is laid in such a way that the material does not come into contact with the insulation. In this case, due to the resulting gap, a ventilation space is formed. Such a gap is obtained by filling the rafters with a sheathing of beams with a cross-section of 5 cm. Thanks to this intermediate lathing, it is possible to lay a layer of waterproofing with a sag of 1-2 cm. But this method of installation has a significant drawback - roof ventilation significantly increases heat loss.
• The second method allows you to avoid unnecessary heat losses, since membrane films and are used here. Membranes allow you to reliably protect the under-roof space from moisture that accidentally gets under the tiles and from condensation that forms. At the same time, such a film does not retain steam and moisture that rise from the insulation. Thanks to this, the roofing cake “breathes”.

In both cases, sufficient ventilation space (20-30 mm) is left between the waterproofing and the metal tiles. This avoids unwanted condensation on the inner surface of the tiles and the formation of mold on the wooden sheathing strips.

• if the pitch of the rafters is 90-120 cm, then the sheathing is created from slats with a cross-section of 32 * 100 mm;
• instead of wooden slats, it is allowed to use metal profiles with a similar or greater load-bearing capacity;
• the sheathing is fixed to the counter-battens or rafters using self-tapping screws or nails;
• the bottom lath of the sheathing is always 10-15 mm thicker than the others.

It is recommended to begin installation of the sheathing from the place where it will begin. This greatly facilitates the joining of tile sheets when arranging a roof with a complex configuration. When installing the sheathing, it is important to remember that repairs to this part of the roof, if the metal tiles are intact, can be carried out quite quickly. This helps to significantly extend the life of the roof.

Installation of metal tiles

To fix the tiles, special roofing screws made of galvanized steel are used. They differ from ordinary self-tapping screws by the presence of a sealing washer and a drill at the end. For installation, you can use a screwdriver or electric drill. This greatly simplifies the process of securing sheets. But here it is important that the device has the ability to reduce the speed or torque. The point is that you should not over-tighten the screw, as this will lead to destruction of the rubberized seal.

The use of such self-tapping screws in the future makes it quite easy to dismantle tiles and repair the roof. When carrying out such a procedure, the removed sheets are marked and, after repairs, returned to their place.

Installation of metal tile sheets is carried out according to the following algorithm:

• Before laying the tiles, a cornice strip is installed on the lower end of the roof, which should protect the front board and sheathing from the negative effects of precipitation. The plank is fixed directly to the sheathing using nails or self-tapping screws with a countersunk head. A sealant is installed between the tile sheets and the eaves strip.
• Installation of tiles on a gable roof begins from the end; on a hip roof, tiles are installed from the eaves. The tiles are aligned along the eaves, not the end.
• Sheets are laid both from left to right and vice versa. When laying on the left side, each subsequent sheet is placed under the previous one, when laying on the right - on top of the previous one (read also: " ").
• The optimal overlap along the slope is considered to be an overlap of 25 cm. But some types of tiles are produced strictly according to the parameters of the slope, so when working with such tiles, overlap is not needed.
• The tiles are attached to the sheathing at the bottom of the profile wave. Fastening is carried out through a longitudinal wave into every 2nd transverse wave of the sheet.
• The capillary groove must be overlapped with the next sheet. The overlap itself is fixed with a self-tapping screw. At the same time, it does not need to be additionally treated with waterproofing compounds.

The installation of tiles is completed with the installation of valleys, end and ridge strips (read: ""). When arranging the ridge, ventilation strips can be installed. They are a ridge strip with holes for ventilation. They are usually installed in increments of 5-6 meters.

Installation of metal tiles, detailed in the video:

Thus, a roof made of metal tiles can be organized quite simply - the installation technology of which is not so complicated. In addition, to erect such a roof you do not need to have special knowledge in the field of construction and architecture. The only condition for a quality result is the preparation of the necessary materials and tools. Also, covering a roof with a complex shape with metal tiles may require some practice.

Metal tiles have long become one of the most popular roofing materials. But there is a popular myth that only trained professionals can install it. In reality, the situation is different - with due diligence, any careful person can cope with this job.

Where to begin?

Installation of metal tiles begins with careful preparation for work. The first step is to calculate the exact need for material and, of course, start from the size of the roof. They need to be measured as carefully as possible. Cutting the material into the required fragments is done with an angle grinder, but without an abrasive wheel - it damages the tiles too easily. The previous roofing cake must be removed without a trace, because the rafters are not designed for two coverings at once; This is where the preparation for installation generally ends, except for tools and materials.

Tools and everything you need

To lay metal tile boards with your own hands, you need to cut them to exact dimensions using metal scissors. Taking measurements and comparing them requires using a tape measure. To climb onto the roof, it is extremely important to use a sturdy ladder or stepladder. Fastening is done using an electric drill and screwdriver. The hand tools you need are a hammer, a black stationery marker, and a long wooden strip. When working, be sure to use gloves and glasses made of durable plastic.

You also need to stock up on components such as:

• guide boards;
• roofing strips;
• waterproofing material;
• the tile itself;

• aero rollers;
• end and ridge strips;
• decorative overlays;
• self-tapping screws with washers;
• board 25x100 mm in the required quantity.

Types of roofing and elements

The calculation of the necessary elements for a gable roof has its own characteristics. Let's say its dimensions are 8x5 m (along the slopes). The calculation of the required number of sheets is determined by dividing the length of a single slope by the width of the sheet. Here we mean the working width together with overlaps, and not the one obtained when measuring with a tape measure. It is recommended to always round the resulting non-integer value up and take into account that one of the sheets can be divided equally and used on two slopes at once.

The simpler the type of roof (especially the configuration of the slopes), the less tiles will go to waste. By increasing the length of the sheets, you can reduce the amount of overlap. But this results in more complicated work and more difficult transportation, for which you will have to pay a lot. Judging by the experience of most people, if the length exceeds 6 m, it is advisable to divide the sheet into parts. The overlap is at least 0.15 m if the slope is steeper than 25 degrees, and it will be at least 0.2 m if the roof is flatter.

Laying tiles on an insulated roof involves installing:

• waterproofing film;
• one or more ventilation gaps;
• vapor barrier.

Special staples are used to secure films; The moisture barrier layer itself may be permeable or impermeable to vapor. The passage of water vapor is required if there is a cold attic below, but for a heated residential attic this is no longer so significant. But ventilation under the roof layer must be ensured. If it is not installed, condensation will inevitably appear below, and the safety of the house structures cannot be guaranteed. It is advisable to use, as under any layer of metal on the roof, sp

Such membranes are one-sided, and the side that is smooth to the touch should not be applied to the insulation. It is advisable to carry out work on arranging ventilation and antenna output in close conjunction with each other. Typically, the top of the antenna outputs is cut off, leaving approximately 80% of the size of the posts. The passage elements lead to the outlet of the ventilation pipe, which must be held in place with self-tapping screws. To connect the outer part of the hood with the air duct in the house, a corrugated pipe is useful; To fix this pipe in a given position and seal the connection, adhesive tape is used.

All these measures will improve the quality of the insulation, but you also need to understand its suitable type.

Mineral wool is considered one of the best options because it:

• does not burn;
• well absorbs steps and impacts of raindrops on the roof;
• mechanically strong;
• stably retains valuable qualities for decades;
• can be installed with your own hands without any hassle.

On the side of warm rooms, cotton insulation must be thoroughly protected with a vapor barrier layer, because their permeability to water vapor is high.

Having dealt with the insulation, you need to find out the details of the valley structure. All flanges are laid underneath with a layer of insulation, and to hold the cut sheets, you will need screws. No less significant than the valley is the passage through the metal roof of steel pipes and chimneys. If the chimney goes through an insulated roof, it will be necessary to lay a strictly defined number of layers of insulation, as well as roof insulation, and create a floor sheathing.

Qualified professionals solve this problem by constructing a special box surrounding the pipe outlet to the top. The box itself must be protected from direct contact with the chimney. To isolate them from each other, mineral wool based on basalt or fiberglass is used. The geometric shape of a given unit is determined by the type of materials used. Most pipes are rectangular, round or square. Mostly circular structures are made from metal and cement.

It is forbidden to lead the pipe outside through the valley, because then it will not be possible to reliably ensure the tightness of their connection.

Any chimney pipes must be equipped with protective umbrellas.

When forming the external apron, waterproofing materials that are resistant to high temperatures are used. Ceiling openings around a steel chimney will need to be covered with a heat-insulating barrier or box; this requirement is relevant not only for wooden roofs. Instead of fluff, vermiculite or expanded clay is sometimes used to protect the main body of material from overheating. But the traditional way using basalt wool is more practical and safe.

When venting any chimneys through insulated roofs, auxiliary transverse beams are installed. When installing a pipe in an already created roof, the joints are treated with sealant or covered with adhesive tape. To collect and drain condensation, a drainage gutter is useful. You don’t have to buy it; you can do this thing yourself. Round chimneys are secured with steel brackets, and clearances are always provided for thermal expansion of the structure.

Regardless of whether the roof is equipped with a pipe or not, it is important to correctly calculate its slope. Not only the consumption of metal tiles depends on this, but also the practicality of using the roof and its properties. The slope changes - and the house’s susceptibility to precipitation and wind immediately becomes different, and the service life of the structure also changes. You can calculate the required slope by size if you use a formula of the form X = H / (1/2L). The height here is the interval between the ceiling and the ridge, that is, the height of the rafters, and length refers to the width of the house.

To convert the roof slope into percentages, all that remains is to multiply the result by 100. Elementary trigonometry (arc tangent) will help to convert the calculated figure into degrees. Using this scheme, you can find out the necessary parameters for roofs with one slope, but then you need to take into account the entire length of the span. When the slopes are unequal to each other, the distance is measured from the projection of the ridge onto the floor, and the angles are determined for each plane separately.

If the device is very complex, there are many differences and relief details, a correction is introduced regarding horizontal projections.

The smallest (11 degrees) slope can only be used in an ideal situation, when the influence of snow and rain is obviously excluded. The level of wind load transmitted to the lower parts of the house will be small, but the snow and ice will not move down on their own. Judging by the recommendations of most metal tile manufacturers, normal roof operation in winter conditions is guaranteed only with a slope of at least 14 degrees.

It is not recommended to overestimate the parameters calculated or indicated in the accompanying materials, because this will lead to increased costs for the material, an increase in the windage of the created roof and difficulties with drainage.

But the flattest possible roof also has its downsides.

After all, a small slope does not allow water to seep through the joints between the sheets and the attachment points, so additional measures will need to be taken.

In winter, there will be more problems with clearing the roof of snow.– if you don’t do this or don’t do enough, it may fail. At small angles of inclination, the sheathing becomes heavier and it will be more difficult to attach parts to it. And one more drawback - it will not be possible to make an attic or attic of a large area.

If we look at gabled roofs, other difficulties emerge. So, at an angle of 45 degrees, the snow mass will slide down on its own. But heavy metal tiles can repeat the same maneuver and you will have to strengthen the fastening, attaching each element to the sheathing as carefully as possible. The extremes converge - both with insufficient and with excessive steepness, you will need to lay more sheets. Therefore, angles of 11 and 70 degrees are more theoretically possible than feasible in practice.

For a pitched roof, the most practical value is a corridor of 20 to 30 degrees, and for a gable roof the second figure can reach 45 degrees.

Once the outer contour and shape have been selected, it is time to deal with the rafter joints. As a mauerlat, they usually take a square-shaped coniferous wood beam, its side is 10 or 15 cm. The section of the beam should be exactly the same, this part is placed at right angles to the load-bearing walls. A triangular roof structure is assembled from the rafter legs, which takes the brunt of the weather elements, so special attention must be paid to its creation. Additionally, racks are prepared, directed vertically to the structure, thanks to which the compression from the ridge is evenly distributed along the load-bearing walls.

The length of the ribs at the racks is determined not according to standard standards, but by performing special calculations.

In addition to them, they are equipped with tie-downs - these are horizontal parts of the rafter triangles that prevent the legs from moving arbitrarily under different loads. But ties are used only when creating hanging rafters, and if they have solid support, there is no need for this element at all. Redistribution of bending loads from ridge units is carried out by struts. As for the sheathing, it is made of wooden boards and timber, placed at an angle of 90 degrees relative to the legs of the rafters, and enhances the overall rigidity of the roof.

In addition to these elements, you will need to do:

• ridge (correct joint between slopes);
• overhang - a detail that extends 40 cm beyond the contour of the load-bearing walls and prevents moisture from penetrating their surface;
• fillies - replace the overhang if the ends of the rafters do not allow it.

As for the choice of the number of slopes, it should be done not only for aesthetic reasons.

Thus, shed roofs are used only where there are no attics - on small houses, over porches and outbuildings, over utility buildings.

Tent roofs differ from ordinary gable roofs in that the gables seem to be cut at an angle to their full height. The half-hip roof is similar to a hip roof and is equipped with the same four slopes in the form of a triangle, but the gables are only partially trimmed. If the main part of the building is round, the roof is made in the form of a dome, but all these options, as well as conical, double-gable, and so on, are much less common than gable and single-pitched roofs.

Calculations

When you look at a metal tile roof, you find that it is formed by rows and waves (that is, lines directed perpendicular to the plane of the slope). The gap from one row to another is called a wave step among roofers. When the pitch on a tile sheet is 350 mm and six waves, it is called a module. Typical offers on the Russian market include from 1 to 10 modules. You can choose custom sizes, but then the total cost will be much higher.

It is important to remember that for technical reasons the sheet cannot be shorter than 45 and longer than 700 cm, and all waves and joints necessarily form a monolithic ensemble along the slope.

By counting the required number of modules, it is easy to determine how much material will be used to cover one roof. In addition to the main material, you will also need steel strips (each 200 cm in length) and steel sheets 200x125 cm, painted in the same way as the tiles. The minimum tilt angle is 11 degrees, and the maximum is 70 degrees. Most often, the supplied planks are designed for roofs with a slope of 30 degrees. If this value differs, they are adjusted according to individual requirements defined in the diagram.

Installation methods

Choosing the appropriate type of roof and carefully calculating its parameters is only half the solution. It is important to figure out the best way to install metal tiles. This is a reliable material, but if a mistake is made during installation, after a few months the whole work will need to be redone. There are two time-tested installation options: one row and several rows at a time. Regardless of the chosen path, 2,3 or 4 sheets are assembled into a block, attached to each other with short self-tapping screws.

Then they are attached to the sheathing, trying to get as high as possible. Then it will be possible to twist the block around the central screws, aligning the stacking of sheets for their optimal alignment. If installation is selected in one row, the very first sheet becomes a guide for the entire strip. It is aligned along the eaves and ends of the slopes, and for greater convenience it is attached to a self-tapping screw at the ridge. The second sheet must be placed on the left overlapping the first.

Then these were connected to each other using a screw: it is inserted over the wave under all transverse folds. This method allows you to lay out blocks from a pair or two pairs of sheets. Please note: the sheet that ends each strip is not attached to the base until the next package of metal tiles is leveled. Installation in several rows is significantly different - they work from right to left, but they still level the first sheet, focusing on the cornices and ends. The second fragment of the metal tile should overlap the first, and they are attached to a common screw at the ridge in the middle of the sheet.

The joint between the parts of the coating is clamped with screws that are inserted into the top of the wave. The third sheet of the row is placed to the left of the first. To make covering the roof more convenient and easier, it is worth starting from the side where there are no bevels, cuts, or other roofing parts that would require cutting the sheet. Lay the material, moving towards the oblique ridges or towards the valley separating the slopes. The fourth sheet is superimposed on the third and they are connected with short self-tapping screws, but not screwed to the sheathing (after all, you will still need to adjust the geometry of the laid block).

Detailed operating instructions

Having briefly familiarized yourself with the construction of metal roofing and its installation, it’s time to find out how all the work should be done step by step. The design of the roofing pie differs depending on whether the roof is finished with an insulated or cold roof.

Rough finish

Not counting the cladding layer itself, the following are sequentially placed above the warm attic (from top to bottom):

• lathing;
• counter-lattice;
• water retaining membrane;
• a layer of fire-resistant insulation;
• vapor barrier;
• substrate.

For cold attics, the device is simpler - there is no need for insulation and limiting the movement of steam.

The sheathing is made from 5x5 cm timber; an alternative to it are 3.2x10 cm boards. In both options, the structures are attached to a counter-lattice beam held by the rafters. Thanks to the counter-lattice, not only does the mechanical connectivity of the parts of the cake be ensured, but also a ventilated space is formed inside it. Therefore, the risk of encountering condensation accumulation is reduced.

It is impractical to make a monolithic wooden flooring under metal tiles, so parts of the sheathing are mounted at intervals of 35-40 cm. The exact value is determined by the wave pitch. Where the grooves and cornices are located, a boardwalk 14-15 cm wide is fastened. Any piece of wood must first be impregnated with antiseptics and fire protection agents. Next comes the turn of the waterproofing membrane or film, which must allow steam to pass through, not be destroyed by ultraviolet radiation, and last a long time.

Waterproofing is installed exclusively in dry weather. If it rains, it is better to postpone this matter until a more convenient moment.

Rolls are rolled out over each part of the roof, laid overlapping, moving across the rafters. Laying begins at the eaves and ends at the ridge. The lower waterproofing sheets are brought to the front boards of the eaves. The exact overlap of the film is determined by the angle of the slope, but its minimum value is at least 70 mm. To make joints more airtight, tape and dispersion materials are used.

A common mistake is to use flammable insulation, relying on special fire-retardant impregnations.

It is recommended to use only those materials that themselves do not ignite without additional processing. The thickness of the insulation is selected by carrying out a special thermal calculation based on the conditions of certain places, but even in the warmest regions of the Russian Federation it ranges from 15 cm. It is recommended to give preference to slab insulation from leading manufacturers; they are the most reliable and safe.

The slabs are laid inside the rafters in a spacer; they are fixed without additional fasteners, because such structures are elastic. The choice of vapor barrier is also responsible, and the main attention is paid to the density and level of permeability to water vapor. The internal cladding is made from boards or gypsum boards; this work begins after the installation of other layers is completed.

The load from the roof itself, accumulating snow and moving people is at least 200 kg per 1 sq. m. This circumstance must be taken into account when designing and constructing rafters.

Both cold and warm metal tile roofs are equipped with sound-proofing material - it is placed on the sheathing either as a continuous layer, or in places where the facing covering will be attached.

If the roof slope is from 14 to 20 degrees, slats can be installed relatively rarely. And when a thin steel profiled sheet is placed on top, a continuous sheathing of edged boards is prepared. Their minimum thickness is 3.2 cm, and the installation step is reduced to 1 cm. The slats for the counter-lattice must be nailed to the rafter legs using galvanized nails. They are driven in every 30 cm. When preparing waterproofing, you need to use membranes that effectively suppress the occurrence of condensation, are fire-safe and resistant to ultraviolet rays.

Construction staplers are used to attach water-protective membranes to the rafter legs. Layers of sheathing and counter-lattice are placed above the waterproofing. From the fibrous thermal insulation materials to the waterproofing layer, a gap should be left filled only with air. To form it, nails are driven into the edge of the rafters 1 cm from the waterproofing and a mesh is stretched, which is best made from cord. A concrete screed can help the walls withstand the weight of the roof and additional load (wind, snow, ice). When the upper floor is large, it is done along all load-bearing walls, not limited only to external planes.

Additional strengthening of structures is achieved through concrete columns extending from the foundation, as well as through supports for beams holding the rafters.

The planes of the slopes are brought out perfectly straight, and if defects are found in them, they should be cut off with a plane. Heavily damaged elements must be replaced. When working with rafters, it is necessary to check their geometry with a building level after each manipulation (especially when the diagonal of the slope is displayed). Having noticed a distortion, it is removed using additional elements.

It happens that the slope (between the ridge beam and the cornice) is more than 6 m. In such cases, the sheets are divided into fragments and overlapped. The previous covering from the rafters is completely removed, and after dismantling is completed, the rafters and sheathing themselves are checked very carefully to ensure that everything is intact.

When preparing for any roofing work and during the process of laying out metal tiles, you cannot cover the façade, cover the pediment, or perform other work.

Such “saving of time” is irrational and only results in additional losses.

The gap between the sheathing beams should be made in accordance with the manufacturers' instructions, but not less than 0.6 and no more than 0.9 m. Before work, carefully evaluate the match between the boards or beams, because blocks differing in size and configuration can lead to damage to the roof covering . When filling the cornice, you should place the outermost strip of boards so that it does not protrude beyond it. Parts thinner than 150 mm cannot be used to ensure the strength of the rafters and to compensate for uneven planes. The membrane film placed on top of the sheathing cannot be attached using nails or self-tapping screws; only adhesive tape is used.

Having finished with the eaves strips, they work on the drainage. It is best to purchase a dedicated system from a metal roofing supplier to avoid compatibility issues. The first step during installation is to secure the brackets that hold the gutters. They are also installing ventilation grilles on the eaves. Once this is done, the preparatory stage of work can be safely considered completed.

Laying the final material

The technology for attaching metal tiles is much simpler than any preparatory work. But it also has its own important subtleties and nuances. Work from the bottom corners of each slope. If during the installation process there is a need to adjust the sheets, they are simply cut to the required size.

The joint between the sheets should be opposite the line along which the water will flow. If you do otherwise, rain streams will flow inside.

The first row of covering is laid, carefully watching the protrusions - it should extend 4 cm further than the cornice. There is no need to accurately measure this distance; an error of a few millimeters will not worsen anything. Subsequent sheets are placed easier and faster, but you will have to concentrate again when it comes to the fragments placed on the ridge. It must be remembered that the installation of metal tiles, and even the preparatory work, is carried out at heights, and this places special demands on the organization of work.

It is necessary to use special belts and safety ropes. Before climbing onto the roof, wear shoes with textured rubber soles.

• at dusk and in the dark (even with good electric lighting);
• during rain and until the surface dries;
• in the fog;
• with winds stronger than 15 m/s (even if these are isolated gusts).

You need to lift up exactly as much material and tools as you need for work in the next 1-2 hours.

It's better to spend more time going up and down than to run into problems with cluttered space. Of course, you should never work on an icy roof. Garbage, defective and damaged parts of material, dismantled structures, packaging and everything else go down from the roof only using stairs. It is unacceptable to throw them down.

The working tool should be placed where it will not fall. It is very important to ensure that the tools themselves and the extended wires (cables) do not interfere with anyone or get underfoot. Any mechanisms, especially electrical ones, are checked in advance on the ground, not only before the start of work as a whole, but also at the beginning of each working day. They also carefully check the integrity and serviceability of the insulation. Before lifting large sheets up, you need to make sure there is no strong wind, otherwise they may be damaged.

All work with metal tiles, even unpacking, must be done with gloves and special clothing, because the edges of any sheet of metal tiles are extremely sharp and sometimes jagged.

Any instruction for professional builders invariably reminds that this material is slippery, and you should walk on it extremely carefully, only with a safety belt. If metal tiles are lifted using special mechanisms, it is recommended to check their serviceability before each start-up. You cannot walk or stand under the lifting point or within a certain radius from it (the stronger the wind is within the permissible limits, the larger this radius). When unloading packages, they are always lifted, but not pulled out of the stack.

A typical technological map requires not to lift a long shaped sheet by the edges; they should only be held from the sides. If dirt is found on the metal tiles, they must be removed using household detergents, and the most gentle ones at that. Strong mixtures may damage the coating. It is not always possible to use all the delivered sheets in one day, so you need to know how their storage is organized. Metal tiles cannot be left in their factory tight packaging; they are placed on inclined bars, as this allows raindrops to escape and evaporate.

Metal tiles covered with plastic should be stored (both in packaging and without it) for a maximum of 14 days. If you need to leave it for a longer time, store the material in the same way as the galvanized type.

Step-by-step instructions for laying sheets of material involve preliminary preparation:

• additional support boards;
• bars for through output (fire or inspection hatch);
• roof stairs;
• wall stairs partially leading to the roof;
• snow catchers;
• roof bridges.

It is recommended to cut metal tiles to the required size using saws and metal scissors, hand-held electric saws with teeth made of hard alloys. A grinder with abrasive discs is not only harmful when cutting material; it cannot be used closer than 10 m from the sheet, since flying sparks can damage the tiles. When planning to attach the coating, its surface must be freed from chips, fasteners and rivets. The installed metal tiles are painted with paints suitable for metal at the eaves themselves. The same paints are applied to the edges of the edges and to any random scratches.

A special feature of 1/1025 format sheets is that some of them are equipped with an auxiliary transverse bend, which simplifies installation and blocks the spreading of the material. On roofs with complex configurations, such a coating can only be laid after careful measurements, and the required length of the sheets must be calculated by professionals.

When working on a hip roof, cut blocks cannot be placed on opposite slopes, since they have a transverse pattern.

If you have to step on laid sheets of metal tiles, it is advisable to walk on the places where the sheathing is installed.

It is impossible to properly cover the roof with this material unless you check whether the transverse folds are properly joined after installing each block.

• 0.48x5;
• 0.48x6.5;
• 0.48x8 cm.

A special role belongs to screws with dimensions of 4.8x28 mm. They are necessary to attach the covering in the lower parts of the waves, at the eaves, in overlaps. They are also recommended to secure the slats. Not all fasteners of a certain size are suitable for work; in this case, it is recommended to use screws with a sealing layer of EPDM rubber. Please note: it is absolutely wrong to use nails, since they are less reliable than screws.

A big mistake is to tighten the fasteners all the way - in this case, the surface may become covered with dents.

Driving screws by hand is impractical and tedious. An electric drill, which has smooth speed adjustment functions and can operate in reverse mode, helps to simplify the work. Shaped sheets lead at a slope of 1:4, and trapezoidal ones must be installed at an angle of 1:7. Some manufacturers refuse responsibility if the profile is placed on a roof with a lesser slope. For a classic-type seam roof, you need to make a slope of at least 1:12.

The gable strips are attached from the sides to the gable boards, and at the top they are attached to the metal tiles. The fastenings are placed at a distance of 80 cm from each other, the mutual overlap of the pediment planks is 10 cm. Before installing the ridge shaped strip, it is necessary to secure the end covers with rivets. The overlap is 13 cm, for smooth structures - 3 cm less. From two to five ridge strips are tied into a single block using screws and placed along the ridge.

Next, the joints between the plank and the profile sheet are sealed. The ridge elements themselves are pierced with screws through the seals to the sheets along the top of the waves (they go through one wave). The ridge adjacent to the slope is best done this way: the end is cut off to fit the slope and mounted tightly under the sheet.

To seal shaped ridge elements, it is recommended to use a self-adhesive joint of the “Top-Roll” type.

There is nothing complicated in all this work. You just need to be careful and careful.

Even with a complete understanding of standard operating technology, you can make serious mistakes or miss an opportunity to reduce costs and simplify work.

According to experts, high-quality ventilation of the space under a metal roof meets three requirements:

• a gap is ensured from the waterproofing to the metal itself;
• air flows freely through the cornice;
• nothing prevents him from passing through the area under the ridge.

Only by fulfilling these conditions can you guarantee stable insulation of the attic or attic.

Before work, you should check the timber and boards. It should not show signs of mechanical destruction or exposure to insects.

You should not take material with deep cracks or poorly dried wood. All nails must be made of stainless steel grades. The required length is determined by doubling the thickness of the sheathing.

If you have to join the boards together, you need to bring the border to the rafters whenever possible.

Adjacent horizontal rows are placed so that the joints are mutually offset. Self-tapping screws, which are used to fasten sheets of metal tiles, are installed at least 6-8 pieces per 1 square meter. m, because the coating is heavy and must be thoroughly pressed against the support. When making a tiled roof for a warm attic, it is advisable to install the windows of the living room on the sheathing, held in place by rafter beams. If the windows are very large, it is better to attach them directly to the rafters.

Waterproofing membranes with increased diffusion are placed on the insulation without gaps, and the anti-condensation film should be installed at a certain interval. Between two adjacent rafters, the film can sag by a maximum of 20 mm (with a maximum distance of 120 cm). If the sheathing is made of wood, you need to place an anti-condensation film under the counter-lattice. This will optimize ventilation between the covering sheet and the film. When a drain is created, the installation of the cornice is preceded by the placement of gutter holders. And the cornice itself should end at the level of a third of the gutter coming from the wall.

Connect the cornice to the sheathing using self-drilling flat top screws. You need to join two eaves with an overlap of 5-10 cm. You can hem the eaves overhangs of the roof itself with corrugated sheets, metal siding or facade panels.

It is strictly forbidden to attach metal tiles to the upper deflections of the waves, and also to use a hammer to secure screws.

The lower valley is fastened with clamps, and at least 10 cm should remain from the end of the sheet to the lowest point of the valley.

The upper valley is installed after the laying of the metal tiles is completed. To do this, use roofing screws, piercing into the tops of the waves in increments of 20... 30 cm. In this case, it is unacceptable to disturb the lower valley. When attaching the gables, they try to cover the upper deflections of the waves. The ridge and metal tiles are separated using polyurethane foam, and the ends of the ridge element must be covered with a decorative cap. The joints must be treated with sealants.

Wall profiles are necessarily used where the roof fits not only the walls, but also various pipes and dormer windows.

They are applied to metal tiles and attached to problematic elements. At the eaves level, after the second strip of sheathing, various fences are installed. Their type and specific design are determined by the slope of the roof and the type of tile. For connections, it is recommended to use self-drilling bolts with an external zinc layer (5.5x25 mm for metal and 5.5x60 for wood).

It is unacceptable to attach the fence to only one metal tile.

To connect the enclosing structures together, bolts are used. Snow-retaining elements are placed in the deflection of the wave; they are attached through the tiles and the sealing gasket to the sheathing itself. In the places provided for this, sheathing profiles are made in advance in increments of 12 cm (it is measured along the axes of the profiles).

Snow guards should be mounted above the fence, and if the slope is longer than 10 m, it is advisable to use pairs of them.

You can watch the installation process of metal tiles in the video below.

Recently, metal tiles have been increasingly used for roofing. The material is supplied in the form of profiled sheets with a polymer coating. If you wish, you can install the metal tiles yourself. Step-by-step instructions will help you do this without serious mistakes.

Work on laying roofing fragments

The products are based on a steel sheet with a thickness of 0.45-0.55 mm. It is galvanized and has a special polymer-based coating. The cost of production may vary depending on the thickness of the metal and the type of protective layer.

List of advantages

First of all, it is necessary to highlight the following advantages:

• aesthetic appeal;
• weather resistance;
• affordable price;
• lightness of the main elements.

Note! Polymer coatings perform not only a protective, but also a decorative function, since their colors can vary over a fairly wide range.

Few disadvantages

Since the sheets have a small thickness but are quite large in size, there is still a risk of damaging them if installed carelessly. If all the rules are followed, the integrity of the elements is difficult to violate.

Another disadvantage is the appearance of a noise effect in heavy rain during operation. However, with proper soundproofing of the living space, this disadvantage is completely eliminated.

Related article:

Tools for installation work

It is necessary to prepare in advance a set of tools and additional devices for the work:

Note! It is forbidden to cut sheets using abrasive wheels, since high temperature exposure leads to the destruction of not only the polymer, but also the zinc layer.

Basic set of additional parts

The step-by-step instructions for installing metal tiles should mention the main elements used in conjunction with the sheets. They are used depending on the roof configuration and operational features.

We suggest taking a look at the list of basic parts:

• a ridge is required to close the upper joint between two slopes;
• the end strip is necessary to decorate the edges on the side of the gable overhangs;
• the valley is installed in the places where the slopes combine;
• the cornice strip is attached to the side of the gutters;
• the junction strip is mounted in the presence of a pipe and other protruding structures;
• A snow retention element is needed to prevent snow from sliding off the roof.

Instructions for installing metal tiles: step-by-step execution of work

Loading and unloading of products can be done manually, but during the work a certain number of people must be involved. Usually 1 person is required per 1.5-2 linear meters of sheet length. That is, when unloading metal fragments with a length of 6 m, 3-4 people should be present.

Waterproofing device and fixation of control bars

If thermal insulation is laid between the rafters, then waterproofing material must be present in any case. It is attached with brackets to the load-bearing part of the roof. The canvases are spread across the rafters with an overlap of at least 15 cm along all slopes.

50x50 mm bars are nailed directly onto the rafters, providing a ventilation gap between the waterproofing and the roofing material. For fixation, nails of at least 90 mm are used.

Correct installation of sheathing under metal tiles

An edged board 25 mm thick and 100 mm wide is usually used as lathing, but the final choice will depend on the pitch of the rafters. The elements are attached to 50x50 mm bars using nails no less than 70 mm long. The distance between the boards depends on the wavelength of the metal tile used.

In the place where the ridge element is installed, it is recommended to install two planks close to each other. This will simplify the installation of the ridge on the metal tiles. The same should be done at the places where the valleys are attached. The bottom board of the sheathing should be higher than the others by the height of the wave. Usually the thickness of the lining is enough to compensate for the difference.

Installation of parts mounted to sheets

To protect the ventilated space under the roof from the penetration of moisture and street debris, metal tile eaves strips are installed. A ventilation tape must additionally be attached to the ends of the 50x50 mm bars.

When installing the valley, a universal seal is laid. The bottom edge of the element should be on the surface of the cornice board. When joining horizontally, an overlap of at least 30 cm is made.

Lining a brick chimney involves extending the waterproofing membrane by at least 50 mm. A groove is made in the pipe itself, the depth of which should be at least 15 mm. Water is discharged into the valley located in the immediate vicinity.

The process of laying and fastening sheets

All sheets must be aligned horizontally with an extension of 50 mm beyond the sheathing. When fixing metal elements, the following points should be adhered to:

• the self-tapping screw must be installed in the deflection of the wave, where the sheet is adjacent to the sheathing;
• fastening to the bottom board is carried out above the step directly through the wave;
• Along the edge of the slope, fasteners are screwed into each wave.

Installation of end strips and ridge

Elements for closing the end joints are mounted in the direction from the eaves overhang to the ridge. The overlap on adjacent planks should be 10 cm. The recommended spacing between fasteners is 35 cm.

As for the skate, it is fixed to the upper crest of every second wave. When building up elements, an overlap of at least 15 cm is left. Self-adhesive sealing tape is attached along the entire length.

Additional instructions for installing snow guards on metal tiles

The number of elements to hold snowdrifts on the roof is selected taking into account the geometry of the roof. In areas of heavy snow scraping, two rows of metal profiles can be installed. Pass-through type snow guards are the optimal solution for individual buildings. They are attached using long self-tapping screws to the sheathing itself through. The distance between fixation points usually ranges from 50-100 cm.

3 - round ridge bar. 4 - the ridge cap is conical. 5 - the ridge cap is simple. 6 - upper valley strip. 7 - bottom valley strip. 8 - end strip. 11 - cornice strip. 21 - antenna outputs. 23 - passage element. 24 - exhaust outlet. 25 - sewer outlet. 30 - Tyvek (waterproofing superdiffusive membrane). 31 - ladder. 32 - tubular snow holder. 33 - roof fencing. 34 - transition bridge.

1. For installation you need the following tools: cutting tool, screwdriver, hammer, tape measure, long strip, marker.

Cutting metal tile sheets.
To cut metal tile sheets, you can use hand-held metal shears (Fig. 1), a hacksaw with fine teeth (Fig. 2), electric nibblers (Fig. 3), a jigsaw (Fig. 4), a circular saw with carbide teeth (Fig. 5 ). After cutting the sheets, sweep away any metal filings, otherwise they will rust and ruin the finish.

Attention! It is strictly forbidden to cut metal tiles with an abrasive wheel (“grinder”, Fig. 6), since in this case, under the influence of high temperature, not only the polymer coating, but also the zinc is burned out. As a result, a rapid corrosion process begins and rust stains form.

2. To fasten the metal tiles to the sheathing, use branded galvanized self-tapping screws with a colored head and an EPDM rubber gasket produced by Master Coat (Finland, marked “MP”) or manufactured by Ferrometal (Finland, marked “fm”) or SFS Stadler (Switzerland, marked "sfs").

The lifespan of such self-tapping screws, unlike cheap fakes, is comparable (30-40 years) with the lifespan of metal tiles. To screw them in, it is recommended to use a screwdriver or electric drill with a speed controller and reverse. Any scratches that may occur during installation of metal tiles can be painted over with an aerosol of the same color.

3. After installing the rafters, it is recommended to carry out a control measurement of the roof slopes, since deviations from the design are possible during the construction process. Check the squareness and flatness of the roof by measuring the diagonals of the slopes. Small defects in the squareness of the roof (up to 10 mm) can be hidden from the ends using additional elements.

4. Attention! It is recommended to lay the tiles on a roof with a slope of at least 14 degrees. The main size that determines the length of the sheets, the length of the slope - from the eaves to the ridge - is set taking into account the overhang of the metal tile sheet from the roof eaves (40 mm).

If the length of the slope exceeds 6-7 meters, the sheets are divided into two or more pieces, which are laid with an overlap of 150 mm. Long sheets have fewer joints, but they are less convenient to work with than shorter ones.

5. Based on the width of the slope, the number of sheets is determined based on the useful sheet width of 1100 mm.

With complex roof geometry, the presence of valleys, protruding dormer and dormer windows, turrets, etc. Our managers will help you select the correct sheets using a special computer program. You will be provided with roof installation plans indicating the lengths of all sheets of metal tiles on each slope. In addition, Metal Profile managers will select the necessary finishing elements.

6. Factory packaging reliably protects metal tiles from damage during loading, unloading and transportation.

7. Metal tiles are loaded only with soft slings using a special traverse into open vehicles with a body length no less than the length of the sheets. The base for metal tiles must be level and strong. Packs under metal tiles must be securely fastened. It is prohibited to place heavy loads on metal tiles that could cause deformation of the sheets.

8. When unloading, it is necessary to attract a sufficient number of workers (at the rate of 1 person per 1.5 - 2 m of sheet). Sheets must be lifted and carried carefully in an upright position, avoiding strong bends. It is prohibited to throw sheets and drag them. Attention! The edges of the sheets are sharp.

9. Storage conditions for metal tiles and corrugated sheets must comply with group ZHZ according to GOST 15150 (unheated rooms without direct exposure to sunlight and rain).

Packs of profiles in original packaging must be laid flat on 20 cm thick beams in 0.5 m increments. When stored for more than 1 month, the sheets should be unpacked and arranged with slats (stack up to 70 cm high).

10. With a daily temperature difference, condensation forms on the lower surface of the metal sheet. In addition, the vapors rising from the interior of the house turn into water in the cold air of the under-roof space. Excessive humidity leads to wetting of the insulation, and consequently, a decrease in its thermal characteristics, freezing of the roof and the formation of ice on the roof covering, rotting of rafters and sheathing, the appearance of mold, and damage to the interior decoration of the premises.

To avoid such phenomena, it is necessary to use insulation of sufficient thickness and protect it with a waterproofing film from condensation and with a vapor barrier film from moisture from the premises.

Eliminating moisture.
To eliminate moisture from the under-roof space, natural ventilation is arranged so that air passes freely from the eaves to the ridge. To do this, a ventilation gap of about 40 mm high is created between the metal tile and the waterproofing using lathing. Slots 50 mm wide are left in the roof overhang lining, and special holes are made in the ridge seal.

11. Panels of vapor barrier film of the “UTAFOLN SILVER” type are laid overlapping under the insulation and sealed tightly with adhesive tape. Rolls of waterproofing are rolled out onto the rafters on top of the insulation horizontally from the eaves to the ridge with an overlap of 150 mm. In this case, the side with the colored stripe on the edge should face outward. The material must not be turned over.

Film of the type "UTAFOL-D SILVER" or "YUTAKON" is laid with a sag of 20 mm, leaving a gap of about 20 mm to the insulation, otherwise the film will lose its properties. Film like "TYVEK" or "YUTAVEK" can be laid directly on the insulation. There are quite a few types of under-roofing films, the applicability of which in a particular case should be discussed with the manager.

12. The lathing consists of antiseptic-treated bars with a cross-section of 50x50 mm and boards 32x100 mm (approximate values). First, 50x50 falling bars are nailed to the rafters on top of the waterproofing from the ridge to the eaves, to which sheathing boards are then attached horizontally. The first sheathing board from the eaves is taken 10-15 mm thicker than the rest (~ 50x100 mm). The distance from the beginning of the first sheathing board to the middle of the second board is 300 mm (for MONTERREY or SUPERMONTERREY metal tiles) or 350 mm (for MAXI metal tiles).

The distance between the centers of all other sheathing boards with a section of 32x100 mm is 350 mm (for "MONTERREY" or "SUPERMONTERREY") or 400 mm (for "MAXI"). If the distance between the rafters exceeds 1000 mm, thicker sheathing boards are used.

In valleys, around chimneys, roof windows, etc. the sheathing is continuous. Two additional boards are nailed to the sides of the ridge strip. The end strips are raised above the ordinary sheathing to the height of the metal tile profile.

13. At the place of the internal junction of the slopes, the lower valleys are secured to the continuous sheathing with self-tapping screws. When joining the planks, an overlap of about 100-150 mm is made (depending on the angle of the roof).

Then, having previously marked and trimmed, sheets of metal tiles are laid. On top of the joint of sheets, which rarely looks beautiful, a decorative element is mounted - the upper valley strip.

Attention! The junction points are traditionally the weakest points of the roof and their construction must be approached with particular care.

14. For a hermetically sealed connection of the metal tile roof to the chimneys or walls, an internal apron is installed on the roof slope. For its manufacture, lower abutment strips are used. The strip is applied to the walls of the pipe and the upper edge of the strip is marked on the wall. Then a groove is punched along the intended line with a grinder. When the groove is completed, the dust is removed and the groove is washed with water. Installation of the internal apron begins from the bottom wall of the pipe. The lower junction strip is cut in place, installed and secured with self-tapping screws. In the same way, the apron is mounted along the remaining walls, not forgetting to make overlaps of about 150 mm to eliminate the possibility of leaks. The edge of the strip inserted into the groove is sealed.

Then, under the lower element of the inner apron, a flat sheet is inserted - a tie, designed to drain water. The tie is directed either into the valley or down to the eaves of the roof. A bead is made along the edge of the tie using pliers and a hammer.

Sheets of metal tiles are mounted on top of the internal apron and tie. When the installation of the roofing around the chimney is completed, they begin to manufacture and install an external decorative apron from the upper abutment strips. It is installed in the same way as the internal one, but its upper edge is attached directly to the wall, without going into the groove.

Attention! You need to walk on a metal tile roof in soft shoes, stepping into the deflection of the wave. Roofers must be provided with safety equipment.

15. Install the gutter holders on the bottom board of the sheathing in accordance with the installation instructions for the gutter system.

Attention! When installing the holders, please note that the edge of the gutter should be located 25 - 30 mm below the edge of the metal tile. This is done to ensure better safety of the gutters when layers of snow melt from the roof.

16. Insert and secure the gutter into the holders. Attach the eaves strip to the sheathing: its lower edge should overlap the edge of the gutter.

Place the under-roof waterproofing film over the eaves strip so that condensation drains from the film into the gutter.

17. The first sheet of metal tiles is aligned along the end of the roof and secured with one self-tapping screw at the ridge. In this case, the offset of the sheet relative to the cornice is 40 mm. (See Fig. A).

The second sheet is laid overlapping the first if the roof is installed from right to left, or the edge of the second sheet is placed under the edge of the first if the installation is done from left to right.

The sheets are connected with self-tapping screws into the upper part of the overlap so that they are not screwed to the sheathing and can be rotated together relative to the self-tapping screw holding the first sheet at the roof ridge (see Fig. B). The third sheet is mounted similarly to the second. Three sheets fastened together are aligned parallel to the roof eaves.

Attention! If you purchased metal tiles with a protective film, be sure to remove the protective film during installation. If sheets of metal tiles need to be joined along the length, the order of laying the sheets is indicated in Figure B. In this case, sheets 1 - 4 are connected and aligned along the end of the roof.

18. The bottom of the metal tile sheet is attached with self-tapping screws to the base of the wave through the wave.

The next rows of screws are screwed in in a checkerboard pattern through one wave. The lateral overlap of metal tile sheets is fastened with self-tapping screws along the crest of each wave. The number of screws is 6-8 pieces per square meter.

19. End strips are installed at the ends of the roof.

They are secured every 500-600 mm with self-tapping screws 28 mm (side) and 80 mm (top) long. The overlap between the slats is 50 mm; if necessary, the slats are trimmed.

20. Ridge strips can be flat or round.

Installation of a round ridge strip begins with fastening flat or conical plugs (in accordance with the shape of the roof) at its ends with self-tapping screws or rivets.

21. A shaped seal with previously cleared ventilation holes is placed on the ridge, onto which a flat or round ridge strip is mounted, secured with ridge screws (80 mm) through one wave of the metal tile.

An overlap of 100 mm is made between the ridge strips.

22. Stairs to the roof are mounted using brackets. The brackets are placed on the staircase posts (4 pieces per section) and secured with bolts, then secured into the deflection of the metal tile wave with roofing screws. The connection of the brackets to the roof is sealed.

Along the length of the slope, the staircase is assembled in sections, the upper section is attached with special brackets to the ridge beam. Assembling a staircase on the wall begins with attaching the handrails. Using two clamps, the racks of the roof ladder and the edges of the handrails located on the roof are pressed together, tightening them loosely with two M 8x40 bolts. Next, the wall brackets with clamps are placed on the racks of the wall staircase above the upper and lower steps, secured with M 10x45 bolts. If necessary, the length of handrails, wall brackets or stair sections can be shortened. The brackets are attached to the wall with anchors.

After this, the handrails are placed on the upper edges of the wall stairs and fastened with M 10X35 bolts. On the roof, the edges of the handrails are finally tightened. The top pair of wall brackets are attached to the sheathing board or rafters with hanging brackets.

1. Bracket for the ridge of the BLK ladder
2. Ladder 1.85X0.4 (with fastening) BL/1.85
3. Handrail for stairs (with fastening) BLP
4. Bracket to the roof for stairs (with fastening) BLKK
5. hanging bracket for stairs BLKP
6. Wall bracket for stairs (with fastening) BLKS

23. For safe movement on the roof during its operation, a vertical roof fencing grid is attached at the eaves level. The fence supports are fastened with galvanized screws M 8x60 in the place where the metal tile wave bends through the rubber gasket and roofing sheet into the support beam. The support is adjusted relative to the angle of the roof and is fixed, the roof fence is hung on the supports.

At the junctions between the fencing section and the support, holes with a diameter of 11 mm are drilled in the top and 9 mm in the bottom crossbar of the section, through which the section is bolted to the support using M 10x35 and M 8x55 bolts. The holes in the top crossbar are plugged with polyethylene plugs. Upon completion of installation, the junctions with the roof are sealed. The lathing should be like a tubular snow retainer.

24. For access to pipes, antennas, etc. transition bridges are installed on the roof.

The fastening of the bridge support brackets to the roof is carried out similarly to the fastening of the roof railing. Adjustment of the platform inclination (up to 50°) relative to the roof is carried out by selecting the appropriate holes in the lower and upper brackets and fixing them with M 8x20 bolts (two on each side).

25. To avoid avalanches of snow falling from the roof in the spring, install a reliable tubular snow retainer.

Installation of tiles: installation of a snow retainer is similar to installation of a bridge and roof fence. The snow guard is installed at a distance of about 350 mm from the cornice. If the length of the slope is more than 8 m, an additional snow retainer is installed; in addition, snow retainers must be installed above the roof windows.

As an economical solution to this problem, you can use a snow retainer bar, which is attached through the wave with ridge screws (80 mm) together with a reinforcing bar to the sheathing; the lower edge of the snow retainer is attached to the metal tile with ordinary self-tapping screws.