To sharpen a chain, you probably don’t need to put in a lot of effort, since it’s not very difficult. In this article, we’ll look at how to properly sharpen a chain on a chainsaw, and look at all the smallest details.
First you need to find out the reasons why the chain becomes dull.
So, let's go!
The chainsaw tooth you want to sharpen has a heavy geometry.
It has two cutting edges - one on the side, one on top - one of them is beveled at an angle that determines how the chain should move, and it makes the operation a little tricky.
A chainsaw with high power cuts down the entire tree, and with the help of a limiter you can determine how thick the chips will be, small or large.
Why does the chain get dull?
- If you work a lot with a chainsaw, it will very soon become dull. And you will need to sharpen it a couple of times a day.
- Also, the main problem why the chain becomes dull is the soil. If you accidentally snag the soil, you can immediately go sharpen it, since it will no longer cut as it should, the chainsaw no longer cuts into the tree as well, and you will immediately see that the chips become much smaller than before.
In order for the service life to become longer, you need to sharpen it as soon as possible, as soon as you see that the saw is no longer sawing as actively, go and sharpen the teeth, because if you tighten it, you will need to remove more material from it.
The main check when it comes to sharpening the teeth is to give the feed a little more.
If the chain is sharpened, it crashes into the tree very quickly. Well, when you constantly increase your feed to the maximum, you definitely need to sharpen.
A chain that has already become dull is very easy to calculate, as already written above - these are small chips.
Reasons why you should not cut with a chainsaw that has dull teeth:
- Your body is very tense due to the high vibration going on
- Immediately visible deterioration in cutting
- Of course, productivity decreases
- Fuel and oil consumption increases greatly
- There is also a lot of wear and tear on all parts of the chainsaw, which will soon require repairs.
How should you sharpen a saw, what tools should you use to sharpen it, and at what angle is it correct?
Let's start one by one, the sharpening angle of the chain is measured depending on your case for use, let's say, the higher you take the angle, the stronger and more productive it will cut soft wood.
The sharpening angle for the link that cuts affects the chain, on average it should be from 50° to 60°
When we reduce the angle, then the saw will enter hard trees very smoothly, and accordingly, the vibration is much reduced and does not radiate into your body.
Now we take a protractor and measure, it is strictly forbidden to sharpen the chain more than 35 degrees or less than 25 degrees (with the exception of a chain for longitudinal cutting, which has an angle of 10°)
Now you need to find out what tools you need to sharpen your chains. Since the contour of the tooth itself is similar in shape. You need to use a file (round) of small diameter.
Sharpening needs to be done very precisely, you should hold the file clearly, without changing the angle, its upper edge of the file, it should protrude at the upper edge of the tooth, approximately 1/5 of the diameter of the file.
An important step is what parameters of the teeth (chain), because it is for this that the files for the chain pitch need to be tapped. In standard cases, this diameter is 4-5.5 mm.
And the file is held at a clear angle of 90° in the plane (vertical), and 30-10° in the (horizontal).
Sharpening teeth using only files is a very labor-intensive process, and many people use other tools for sharpening, these are also kits that come in addition to the chainsaw itself, or if they don’t come together, they can be bought at a garden equipment store.
Now let’s take a closer look at the tools that can be used to sharpen chains:
- A file (round) that is attached to a round holder.
- A flat file that should be used to sharpen the stopper.
- A template that provides the final operation.
- A hook used to clear sawdust from a saw.
On the file (round) which is attached to the holder, there are special lines due to which it is correctly positioned relative to the chain and does not move to the side, and the plate rests as much as possible against the crown of the tooth, and thus the file becomes the cutting edge at the bottom.
Thanks to the holder, you will know for sure that the file at the correct height is adjacent to the saw tooth. And for every file with a holder, there are many holder options.
If you choose the right file with a holder, then you will know for sure that it comes into contact with the back of the tooth by 20% or 1/5 of the diameter.
During sharpening itself, you need to carefully strengthen the tire, and with smooth movements using a file with a holder, make 2-3 movements from yourself, for maximum effect.
To make the effect even greater, apply maximum effort to the file to sharpen it even more. Also, to protect it from wear, make turns so that it can be used from all sides.
We do this with all the teeth on one side, then we turn the saw and do the same on the other side.
The teeth also need to be made at the same length, you don’t need to sharpen one tooth 5-6 times, and the rest 2-3 times, do it the same way everywhere, so that the saw cuts well, it can also be due to an uneven stroke, it can often chip.
When we have finished sharpening the chain, we need to start sharpening the depth stop.
You need to put a template on it, namely so that it fits directly into the slot, then take a flat file and use it to grind off the end protruding from the slot itself.
When you sharpen the stop, the template should be close to where it says “Soft” (soft) or “Hard” (hard) wood.
And it should clearly fall into the slot, and when sharpening as with a round file, we make smooth movements, and with the help of a flat file we make the same movements from ourselves.
Examples of a couple of chainsaw sharpening machines
The entire chain, all the teeth can be sharpened using files if you get into the ground or sand, but if this process seems labor-intensive to you, you can use special sharpening machines.
Namely:
A company like “Stihl” produces two types of machines and 2 modifications of manual machines, the first is mobile (FG1) and the second is stationary (FG2).
They are installed on the tire.
These machines are very similar to crayfish saws, only a file (round) is used to replace the blade.
These machines, according to their principle, sharpen machines (FG1, FG2). and thus they are repaired by adjusting the edge to the same size, taking the smallest tooth by the head.
We do this on one tooth and move on to the next one, while the settings that you set remain unchanged, after you have adjusted the first tooth, this sharpening ensures that all teeth are uniformly sharpened to the correct size. 
When we have already reached the limiter, we need to change the file (round) to a flat one.
There are also automatic (electret) machines, they have a system for setting up, which presses the chain, immediately takes the desired angle, and brings the disk to the stern which is sharpened, there are also machines that clamp automatically when you lower the disk to chain.
And you can also watch a video of sharpening a chainsaw chain
Any instrument needs timely care. A chainsaw is a type of equipment that requires special attention. The device poses a certain danger, but if the chain is blunt, then the risks increase significantly.
During intensive work, the need for sharpening arises often. Therefore, it makes sense to learn how to restore its functionality, since sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands is not a difficult operation, but having mastered it, labor productivity will increase, as well as work safety.
How to sharpen a chain on a chainsaw with your own hands
Determining when a tool needs servicing is easy. This becomes clear during the work process based on the following signs:
- the chips become small;
- requires significant effort;
- the saw jams;
- strong vibration is felt;
- cutting time increases.
Taking a closer look at the chain, you can visually verify that the edges do not have the necessary sharpness. Having discovered that the time has come to sharpen them, you cannot postpone this procedure. Firstly, the work becomes unsafe for the performer. Secondly, there is an unwanted load on the power unit. And thirdly, a lot of time is lost, some of which is better spent on sharpening.
The sharpening principle is based on the design features of the link. It consists of a body on which an L-shaped cutting edge is located. The vertical edge is straight, and the horizontal edge is made at an angle. There is a cut depth limiter in front of the tooth. All these elements need processing.
Grinding the cutting part reduces the height of the chain profile. If the height of the stop is not removed at the same time, it will not allow the tooth to sink into the wood to the required depth, so it is also ground down. Editing of the stop is done in significantly smaller volumes.
The cutting edge decreases in height by fractions of a millimeter when sharpened. This is the value you need to focus on when processing the limit stop. For work, you can use a file, an angle grinder (grinder), special mechanical devices and electric tools.
Sharpening with a file
To work, you will need two files: round and straight. The first is chosen according to the oval in the link body. Diameters more than 6 mm There are no household chainsaws on chains. Usually this size does not exceed 5.5 mm. A larger file cannot be used. It will change the geometry of the cutter.
There are two main technologies for manual sharpening. The simplest method is when the file is controlled visually. The master follows the factory processing angles as much as possible and carefully processes the vertical edge under full visual control.
The tool partially touches the horizontal edge. Then, using a flat file, it is brought to the desired state and lightly passed along the limiter.
The second method is more accurate and productive; sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands using a file is done using a special holder for a round product. With such a device, sharpening a chainsaw chain with your own hands becomes easier.
It is configured so that both faces can be processed in one pass. The file moves vertically across, and horizontally along the cutting edge. The device significantly reduces sharpening time and makes it better quality. The depth stop is removed with a straight file. Despite the technological difference, there are general rules for both methods:
- the chain must be fixed in a vice;
- the angle of the file relative to the bar is maintained (about 30°)
- done 2-3 movements from yourself with the same effort.
You can make a device for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands in a maximum of an hour. The photo shows the factory device. Making the same thing at home is not difficult for the average home craftsman.
Video: Sharpening with a round file
Electric sharpening machines
The most accurate and efficient way to restore a chain is to use specialized equipment. This is a machine for sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands.
It costs quite a lot, but it completely eliminates the human factor and errors during manual sharpening. It is advisable to purchase it when the volume of work to be done is significant. However, there are budget models that are available to many owners of country houses and dachas.
It is necessary to set the angle of the chain and the abrasive wheel and the pitch of the links. Manufacturers offer several types of mechanisms for securing the chain. Recommendations for a specific model are in the user manual. Bring the device to the edge slowly.
It is recommended not to make a pass more than 2 seconds. If it is not possible to complete the treatment at once, the abrasive wheel is removed and after a short period of time the tooth is sharpened again. In this way, it is possible to avoid overheating of the metal, maintaining its performance qualities. The product passport indicates which saw blade should be used for the machine.
How to sharpen using an angle grinder
The method requires skill and skill. Unlike a sharpening machine, there are no limiters. The technician is required to be careful and comply with safety regulations. It is better for experienced people to use this method. The angle grinder (angle grinder) is pre-secured on a table or other stable place.
It is better to make a special clamp for this. After fixing, check whether there is vibration by turning on the tool in test mode for several minutes. If conditions are satisfactory, work can begin. Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening with a grinder is done directly bringing the link to the abrasive wheel.
In conclusion, we can say that no matter how you sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands, the main thing is the accuracy and precision of the master. With manual processing, angle errors and uneven grinding of the metal are possible, while with machine processing there is a risk of injury.
The use of chainsaws allows you to change the size and shape of wood and other materials. The cutting element of a chainsaw is a chain that moves at high speed during operation. The chain contains blades whose geometry allows for fast cutting. Over time, the chain becomes dull and the teeth need to be sharpened. Sharpening a chain is a procedure that you can do yourself, since it is no more difficult than sharpening other cutting tools. The only conditions for sharpening include the use of a special design. This is due to the fact that the created tooth has an unusual geometry: it consists of two cutting edges, the angle is created using the side and top plane. The particular difficulty of sharpening lies in the fact that the upper surface has an angle relative to the line of movement of the chain, which must be maintained with great precision.
When should the work be done?
When using a chainsaw intensively, sharpening is carried out quite often, often several times in one day. Particular attention should be paid to the fact that the contact of the chain with the ground significantly speeds up the process. Therefore, chainsaws must be used in such a way as to eliminate the possibility of contact between the chain and the ground. After several contacts, the chips will be very small, and the chain will go deeper into the material slightly.
When considering this issue, it can be noted: the more often you have to sharpen the chainsaw chain, the less metal layer is removed. Also, if you sharpen frequently, the service life of the cutting element of the chainsaw will increase significantly. The main condition can be called the correct execution of the work, if you do it yourself. The procedure can only be performed correctly if you have a special machine.
A sign that the cutting element of a hand chainsaw has become dull is a significant feed force. Properly sharpened chains determine a significant reduction in the feed force, that is, the chainsaws enter easily with a little pressure. Another sign of the need to sharpen chains is the production of very small chips.
Sharpening a chainsaw when the signs in question appear is mandatory. Sharpening of chains is carried out in order to greatly reduce the tension in the body, reduce the cyclic load rate and fuel consumption. Also, if you do not sharpen the teeth of the chains on time, there is a possibility of increased wear of all components, as a result of which the service life of the hand chainsaw is reduced.
Geometry Features
In order to sharpen correctly with your own hands, even if you use a machine, you should know the geometry of the tooth. Its constituent elements include:
- Spatula.
- The main link.
- Depth limiter.
In this case, the tooth blade consists of the following elements:
- End blade.
- Top blade.
You need to sharpen correctly with your own hands, taking into account the fact that the end and top blades must be positioned correctly relative to each other to ensure the best cutting performance. The back of the tooth forms a certain angle of the upper blade. A similar angle is formed to cut the blades into the material. Sharpening with your own hands should also take into account the fact that the blade has a narrowing towards the back - this design feature forms the angle of the end blade. It is created to ensure lateral cutting of chips.
The sliding surface and the end part of the blade forms the rake angle. In this case, the angle has a fixed value; it varies from 60 to 85 degrees.
If you sharpen the teeth with your own hands, it is worth considering that the upper blade is the main one, and the angle formed by it is the most important angle.
To summarize, when considering the issue of geometry features, we note that the sharpening angle can vary depending on the conditions of use. The basic rule that should be followed when sharpening a tooth with your own hands is the following: the higher the angle, the greater the performance of the chainsaw, but reducing the value ensures smoother running of the blades, reduced vibration and increased service life. It is worth sharpening taking into account that the indicator should be in the range from 25 to 35 degrees. An exception is the version of the blade, which is intended for longitudinal cutting - many manufacturers of the chainsaw cutting element can withstand 10 degrees.
Saw design
To better understand what a chainsaw is and how it works, it is advisable to know how it works.
By the way, it would be more correct to call the cutting tool of a chainsaw a saw chain.
The first saw chains appeared at the beginning of the twentieth century. The designers did not begin to puzzle; they simply mounted teeth on the chain, which quickly lost their functionality. In appearance they resembled those that stand on hand hacksaws for wood. Sharpening such a chainsaw caused great difficulties. But repeated attempts to create the perfect saw chain were crowned with success only in 1947.
This chainsaw has links with an L-shaped cut. Modern chains are, in fact, the direct ancestors of this development.
If during work the cutting speed begins to decrease, the chainsaw in the hands of the master begins to “walk”, then most likely the saw chain has lost its operational properties, that is, it has become dull and measures must be taken to restore them.
Why does the tool become dull?
Each chainsaw has a certain durability period. This is the time from the start of work with a new tool until it becomes inoperable.
Destruction or wear of a cutting tool intended for woodworking occurs due to the impact of a set of forces arising during the cutting process. One of the key ones is friction force. Dulling of the saw chain occurs due to prolonged work, due to the use of a chainsaw for purposes other than its intended purpose.
The amount of wear can be defined as a measure of weight, measured in milligrams. Wear is a parameter that shows a change in the characteristics of the shape and size of the cutting blade. The change in geometric parameters that occurs during cutting, and there is no linear wear, is called blunting.
There are parameters on the basis of which a decision is made about the possibility of further operation of the tool. In particular, when examining the teeth of a saw chain, it is necessary to pay attention to the edges of the front and rear surfaces, the height of the blade, and the wear area. If they are in unsatisfactory condition, it means it’s time to sharpen the chainsaw.
Signs that the saw has lost its sharpness include the following:
- Reducing chip size.
- Using more force to do the job.
When to sharpen and how to find out about it
After examining the saw chain, the master decides whether it is time to sharpen the tool or not.
As a rule, the saw chain loses its performance properties during intensive work. It can get to the point where the chain will have to be sharpened several times in one day. The cause may also be contact of the saw with the ground. In fact, just scrape the saw chain across the ground a few times and you can stop all work. The chainsaw will simply stop going into the tree. By the way, one of the signs of a dull saw is the appearance of small chips.
The sooner measures are taken to sharpen the chain, the longer it will last. It is quite easy to understand when resharpening is required. There will be a feed change. A chain with properly sharpened teeth will retract even with a small force, but if during operation you have to exert a greater feeding force, then this means only one thing, the teeth have lost their sharpness.
Do not use a blunt chain. By the way, this is a safety requirement. And the process will require significant muscular effort from the lumberjack. As a result, this leads to a decrease in cut quality, an increase in the amount of fuel used and accelerated chain wear.
File
A file can be used to carry out the work in question. A file is used to remove the required layer of metal from the surface. A special set was created for this case:
- The file is round and has an unusual holder.
- Flat file needed to adjust the depth limit.
- Hook.
- Special template.
The round file holder is created along with marking lines that are used to position the tool correctly. During operation, the plate itself comes into contact with the depth stop and the surface of the blades, and the file moves around and removes a layer of metal. The use of a special holder with a file allows you to ensure the correct fit of the tools to the surface being processed. You should only use a file that is designed to perform such work.
The rules of work include:
- The same number of movements should be done.
- It is necessary to control the force of pressure on the surface during processing.
- The template, which is used together with the file, allows you to maintain important sharpening parameters.
With different lengths, uneven travel and the formation of cracks in the material are observed. If the length indicator is not the same at the start of processing, then all cutting teeth are filed according to the indicator of the smallest one.
Application of special machines
It is not always possible to use a hand tool with a template. For example, if the cutting edge comes into contact with the ground during operation, there is a possibility of its deformation. In this situation, a special machine is used.
The machine comes in two types:
- Mechanical.
- Electric.
The power saw has a design that looks like a bow saw, but with a round file. The machine can be used to level the length of all edges and restore the correct geometry. The machine in question has a complex system for setting processing parameters. Sharpening is performed in approximately 2-3 movements, after which the machine is installed in a new location.
The electric machine is easy to use. A special adjustment system allows you to correctly position the surface to be treated, as well as position the disc with high accuracy. Some models have an automatic vice clamping system when the disk is lowered. The cost of the electric version is slightly higher, but at the same time the performance increases significantly and the most accurate result can be achieved.
PDF Guide to Sharpening Stihl Saw Chains
How to properly sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands. Step-by-step instruction
Bringing a chain into working condition has its own characteristics. They are determined by the configuration of the tooth. It includes two edges, located - one at the top and the other at the bottom. Moreover, the edge located towards the top has a slope at a given angle. In fact, the tooth, both in geometry and in its operating principle, is similar to the blade of a carpenter’s plane.
For competent sharpening, the master must understand the structure of the tooth.
Teeth parameters
The tooth structure consists of:
- grounds;
- shoulder blades;
- limiter.
Two cutting edges are formed on the blade, one is placed on a horizontal plane, the other at an angle. To obtain the required parameters, the blades are sharpened at the angle specified in the technical specifications. The rake angle is sharpened in the range from 60 to 85 °.
The clearance angle indicates the backward tilt of the upper blade. It lies in the range of 50 to 60°. The blade located on top is considered the main one; the rear angle in this design is very important. It is difficult to measure; if the sharpening rules are followed and the geometric parameters are observed, it is formed in the specified range.
The corners are sharpened depending on the use of the tool. The main rule is that the larger the angle, the greater the efficiency when processing soft wood; the smaller the angle, the easier it is to operate the saw with hard wood. That is, the smoothness of operation improves and the vibration of the tool decreases.
Meanwhile, the situation of sharpening the angle greater than 35 and less than 25° should be avoided. This rule does not apply to rip chains.
The angles change when editing the tool. They have an important impact on cutting parameters, so all technical requirements must be carefully followed.
What do you need to sharpen a saw at home?
The chain can also be sharpened at home. There are two options for performing this work. The first method involves using a file. The second method involves the use of a machine.
Removing the chain from the chainsaw
Each saw model may have its own characteristics when dismantling the saw. Before starting this operation, you must carefully read the operating instructions.
Tips and tricks on how to sharpen a chainsaw at home
It is permissible to use a file for sharpening, but you must understand that such operation of the saw will require certain skills and, of course, patience from the master. To sharpen each tooth, you need to have flat and round needle files on hand. To sharpen a tooth, without using additional equipment, it is necessary to maintain the basic sharpening inclination. Only 2-3 passes with a file are enough for sharpening, so there is no point in inventing some kind of equipment to fix the tooth in a certain position. To sharpen the top edge, the file must be held at the required angle while working. Restoring operability begins with preparation, namely, from the working edges; it is necessary to remove all nicks.
If everything is clear with the angles of the teeth with straight parts of the structure, then the edge located on the side and its working inclination cause certain difficulties. To straighten them, you need to use a round file or a small file. These tooth elements are sharpened at the required angle.
Sharpening on a machine
If sharpening work is carried out quite often, then it is necessary to use special equipment and technological equipment (templates). Using a template on a device of this type allows you to complete this work much faster. Such a device can be a wooden block of small size. This type of template should allow sharpening at two angles. Sharpening can be done using a small diameter grinding wheel or an emery belt that can be mounted in place of the belt drive.
Machines of this type, masters, can be made independently, using the drive from a foot-operated sewing machine as the basis for the design. Using a belt drive and a template, it is possible to process one cutting edge and then another.
Technical features of the sharpening process
The sharpening operation is complicated by the fact that the teeth have a large number of cutting edges located in different planes and having different sharpening angles. When sharpening teeth, it is necessary to make the same amount of movement, and it is necessary to withstand the same pressure force. As a result, all teeth will receive the same type of sharpening.
Also, if the saw chain is sharpened more than 4 or 5 times, then the depth stop must be reduced.
Electric and chainsaws are included in the arsenal of many private home owners, along with such devices as a drill, hammer drill, etc. This tool has one negative side - the chain gets dull from time to time. You can sharpen it yourself if you know how to do it correctly.
How to determine if a chain is dull
Anyone who has ever used a sharp chainsaw will quickly understand when the chain needs sharpening. There are several ways to determine this:
- instead of shavings, when cutting wood, practically dust falls out;
- the time of operations increases;
- fuel consumption increases;
- the saw gets stuck and breaks out of your hands;
- The cuts turn out crooked.
Sharpening should be carried out as soon as possible, and not only because it becomes difficult to work with the tool. When using an unsharpened chain, its service life is shortened and the mechanism of the chainsaw itself wears out faster and fails ahead of schedule.
What to sharpen
Sharpening a chainsaw chain is not an easy process. There are three options that are used today:
- using a file;
- Bulgarians;
- special sharpening machine.
Similar methods are used when sharpening knives, scissors and other cutting tools, so nothing extraordinary has been invented here. However, there are also special tools for sharpening the PowerSharp system. They allow you to quickly sharpen saws at home, which have a special mark indicating the design features.
File
Using a round tool, you need to sharpen the working edge of the saw tooth, because its configuration is rounded. For household chainsaws, a file with a diameter of 4-5 mm is used, because the saw teeth are small. Professional saws are sharpened with files with a diameter of 5.2-5.5 mm.
Use a flat file to sharpen the cutting depth limiter. If this edge is not adjusted, the chain will not cut into the wood to the required depth, which will reduce the cutting speed. And this will directly affect both excessive fuel consumption and overheating of the saw engine.
How to sharpen with files correctly
First of all, the power tool must be prepared. It is installed on a flat surface, it can be a table or a workbench. The chain is tensioned to the maximum, set to brake mode, for which the locking lever is turned. The saw teeth are inspected for defects: chips, cracks, complete fractures, etc.
As for the process of sharpening chainsaw chains with your own hands, there are several recommendations:
- The teeth must be sharpened with a file from the inside out;
- there is a mark on the chain that the manufacturer applies specifically to indicate the degree of sharpening;
- The tooth to be sharpened should be located in the middle of the chain for ease of work;
- sharpened, removed the chain from the lock, moved the next tooth to the middle, and put it on the brake.
You need to work with the saw carefully, wearing protective gloves, because the teeth of the chain are quite sharp. The number of movements along the plane of the edge varies depending on the damage to the teeth.
Accessories
Construction stores sell special holders that make it easy to sharpen the chain of an electric or chainsaw, because they clearly indicate the sharpening angle and the depth of the stop. Having installed the device on the chain, you just need to adhere to the configuration of the holder without going beyond the stops. In principle, this will not work, so the teeth sharpened on the holder have the required angle and depth parameters.
Another device that makes sharpening easier is the so-called machine for straightening the teeth of saw chains. The device is secured to the chain bar with special clamps included in the design of the device. The guide is set at an angle that determines the degree of sharpening. It can be adjusted by changing the parameter.
The tooth to be sharpened is secured with a special stop, on which a file is also placed. This type of machine is produced by a large number of different manufacturers. The instruments may differ purely in appearance, but structurally they are all the same.
Please note that first the working edges of the teeth are sharpened by hand, and only after that the depth stop is trimmed. In this case, it is necessary to strictly maintain the difference in the height of the tooth edge and the upper plane of the stop.
PowerSharp system
It should be noted that this device cannot sharpen all types of chains. They are suitable for their own chains and tires marked PowerSharp. The bar is easily inserted into any saw, and it has one difference from the standard ones - an additional hole in the front.
The sharpening system comes with a plastic block into which the sharpening stone is installed. That is, a bar is inserted inside the block, on which a chain is previously put on. It is fixed there with a pin, which is inserted just through an additional hole in the tire. The block is closed with a lid. At the front of the block there is a key that functions as a lever. It must be bent, thereby pressing the abrasive stone to the teeth of the chain.
After this, the saw must be rested on the ground with the key and turned on at maximum speed. A couple of seconds, and the saw is sharpened.
Sharpening machines
Nobody in service centers uses files for a long time. Because correct sharpening of a chain means precisely maintaining the parameters of the angle of the teeth and the height of the stop.
It is difficult to achieve this manually, but the service center guarantees the quality of the operation with long-term operation of the electric or chainsaw.
The simplicity of the sharpening procedure is due to the fact that the sharpening machine has a retainer in its design in which the chain is secured. It is installed so that the chain is fixed vertically in it.
You can adjust the installation location of the device. This is quite simple to do, because the latch can move in a horizontal plane. The angle of inclination is determined by the abrasive disk (circle), which is mounted on the motor shaft. This way the sharpener is positioned at the required angle set at the factory. But it can also be changed depending on the required degree of inclination.
For example, for cutting hard wood an angle of 20-25° is required, for soft wood - 30-35°; to cut wood along the grain, you can use chains with a tooth angle of 10°.
The rotation of the disk is carried out by an electric motor, but its immersion is carried out manually by the operator. But even here you can set the necessary parameter so as not to increase the depth of the cut. By the way, the disk is a removable element.
Sharpening with a grinder
Note! This type of saw sharpening is unsafe, because the saw teeth are brought by hand to a rotating circle mounted on the angle grinder shaft.
The shaft rotates at a fairly high speed, and it transfers a serious load to the chain. And this is not the only disadvantage, here are just a few of them:
- uneven sharpening of the teeth in terms of maintaining the angle and thickness of the layer being removed;
- the ability to cut through the connecting element (eye) that holds the chain links together;
- difficulty in adjusting slices to the required parameters.
The very process of sharpening with a grinder is that the power tool is clamped in a vice. We must ensure that it does not move or vibrate. They try to secure the grinder so that the disc is in a vertical plane. If you have experience, then you can do everything the other way around, that is, secure the saw in a vice, and bring the grinder to the chain with your hands. Both methods are unsafe.
Which method is easier is clear and without comment. Using simple guides and files makes it possible to sharpen a saw chain at home in quiet conditions. But this option will take time. Ideally and with a guarantee, everything should be done in a technical service, where the teeth will be sharpened on an electric machine with the required angle of inclination. Such a service is inexpensive, the main thing is that such a service is close to home.
Sharpening a chainsaw chain is usually solved by contacting a service center or one of the many workshops that provide similar services.
However, if you know certain rules, then you can cope with this task at home, saving time (if there is no specialized workshop nearby) and money.
Formulation of the problem
When buying a tool, any owner expects to use the device for a long time. The duration of operation directly depends on its conditions.
When it comes to chainsaws, the sharper the teeth are, the longer they will last.
Cutting with a dull chainsaw creates an increased load on the parts of its mechanism, which wear out faster.
A dull chain transmits vibrations to the body, which gradually destroys the drive sprocket and tire.
If a mechanism works with force, it will not only break down faster (and sometimes buying a new tool costs little more than repairing a broken one), but it also requires more fuel consumption.
In addition, things progress much faster if the tool is sharpened. Professionals say that the efficiency of a chainsaw depends to a greater extent on the sharpness of its chain than even on the power of the mechanism!
The sooner you sharpen a dull chain, the less metal you have to remove from it when sharpening, the longer it will last.
Sharpening a chainsaw chain is not as difficult as it might seem when you first encounter this problem.
There is no specific frequency for this procedure. If the tool is used infrequently and not very intensively, a significant amount of time may pass between sharpenings.
It is brought closer by contact of the chain with the ground or cutting of heterogeneous materials, for example, if there are often knots in homogeneous wood.
If you work intensively, you may need to sharpen the chain several times in one day!
If you do sawing regularly and a lot, then this is another reason to learn how to do it correctly with your own hands.
How can you understand that the chain is no longer sharp enough and needs sharpening?
Firstly, you should pay attention to the slower operation of the saw - the longer the cut takes, the sooner the need for sharpening will occur.
Secondly, if you feel stronger vibration while using a chainsaw, then you should think about sharpening the teeth.
Another telltale sign is when the chips become small and dusty. If it also darkens, then postponing sharpening is a crime against your own equipment.
People who regularly use a chainsaw have four options:
- sharpening with a file yourself at home;
- turning to professionals to sharpen your chainsaw;
- sharpening yourself on your own machine;
- homemade machine for self-sharpening.
Each option has its limitations. It is impossible to sharpen with a file all the time; therefore, it is necessary to combine this procedure with a professional one.
Buying another device, such as a sharpening machine, is not economically acceptable for everyone, and it also requires additional storage space.
A trip to the service center is often inconvenient, especially if several sharpenings are needed in a day.
Not every home craftsman can make a homemade machine, and not every such device can compare in quality and capabilities to a professional one.
Chainsaw sharpening process
So, most craftsmen can sharpen a chain with their own hands. But not for everyone.
Sharpening a chain with your own hands is not worth it for those who:
- they are doing this for the first time and do not understand the rules and principles of the process well;
- “they don’t feel” the tool, they are not confident in the accuracy of their movements - people in whose hands the equipment often breaks.
In these cases, it is better to spend more time and money, but do everything correctly and for sure.
Photo of sharpening a chain using a manual machine
Principles of proper sharpening:
- it is necessary to observe the original (indicated by the tool manufacturer) height of the cut stop and the tip of the cutting link angle;
- sharpening with your own hands must be done effortlessly;
- It is important to sharpen the chain in such a way as not to wear off the links or change their shape - they must remain the same as when purchasing the saw - this is a prerequisite for a high-quality cut.
If the last condition is not met, the chainsaw will not only do its job worse, but its mechanism will experience increased load and gasoline consumption will increase.
The most dangerous thing is that the chain can break and cause injury and destruction.
Sharpening with a file requires great care so as not to render the chain unusable until it becomes possible to use professional sharpening equipment.
- before sharpening a chainsaw chain, it is important to inspect it and select the shortest tooth, grinding the rest to its size;
- rotate the grinding steel around its axis during sharpening so that it grinds evenly, which will allow better sharpening of the chain in the future;
- you need to sharpen tooth after tooth in exactly the same way;
- you need to choose the direction and first sharpen the teeth clockwise (or counterclockwise), and then shift the position of the chain and sharpen the teeth in the opposite direction - this way the sharpening will be more uniform;
- count the number of movements with a file when processing one tooth - let it be the same for all subsequent ones;
- The pressure of the musat should be very soft and gentle, the same for each tooth.
A high-quality chainsaw is not a cheap device, so even a special set of files is just an ambulance in case you need to quickly return the tool to combat effectiveness.
The more uniform the chain's teeth are after sharpening, the more time (and work) it will take before it becomes dull.
File as the most common sharpening tool
The easiest way to sharpen a chain is with a file, which is probably available in any workshop and almost every country house.
Moreover, the file must certainly be round so that it can match the rounded contours of the teeth of the chainsaw chain.
If you make precise, smooth movements with a round file at a precise angle (relative to the vertical plane of the teeth - 90°, 10 - 30° - depending on the type of chain - to the horizontal plane), you can quickly restore the functionality of the chainsaw.
The sharpening tool must be selected for a specific chainsaw chain, in accordance with the size of the teeth and the pitch of the chain. The pitch is usually characterized by a range of 4 – 5.5 mm.
The working surface of the file should not rise above the upper edge of the tooth by more than a fifth of its width.
However, there is a more specialized tool for this task, since sharpening a chain with a round file is a rather labor-intensive process.
In addition, the metal from which the saw chain is made is quite soft, so the incorrect trajectory of the file and the angle of its working surface in relation to the cutting edge of the chain can quickly ruin the chain.
A round file works well when sharpening a chain, but a set of files works better.
You can choose a set that includes:
- a round file with a holder has special orientation lines that allow you to correctly determine the position of the working surface in relation to the chain;
- flat file for grinding off cutting depth restrictions;
- hook - a device for cleaning teeth.
The instructions for sharpening a chainsaw chain with musat look something like this. Select the optimal diameter of the tire and securely fasten the tire.
Mark the tooth that you will sharpen first - otherwise you can get carried away and make a second, unnecessary pass.
Make sure that no more than a fifth of the round file protrudes above the teeth while sharpening.
Under no circumstances should you make movements “back and forth” - the file should only move in one direction. The kerf stop should be adjusted every few sharpenings.
Sharpening on a machine
So, a file is an effective first aid if necessary, and not an option for every time the chainsaw chain is not sharp enough.
Only a true virtuoso can sharpen it evenly with a file and avoid excessively sharpening the teeth.
Without at least periodic sharpening on a machine, the chain will fail much faster and will require replacement.
A machine is the only way to evenly sharpen the teeth of a chainsaw chain without being a virtuoso with a precise eye and a sure hand.
It is enough to adjust the machine based on the parameters of the shortest tooth in order to accurately and effortlessly adjust the rest to its size, even at home.
First, you select a control tooth, sharpen it and set parameters, then the machine does everything itself, there is no need to change settings.
The machine allows you to control the slightest setting parameters, change the sharpening angle to match the original patterns, if it has already been changed in the process of unprofessional actions with a file.
The machine sharpens much faster, because not every person is interested in painstaking work that requires time and concentration.
The process of working on the machine looks something like this:
- the chain clamp adjustment screw is loosened;
- the saw is installed in the machine, with the links directed towards the sharpening surface;
- The default sharpening angle is 30°, as is necessary for most chainsaw chains, but you can adjust the machine yourself by selecting the required angle;
- After finishing work, it is important to blow out the chain and treat it with oil.
When sharpening, you can choose one of two options - sequential movement tooth by tooth or movement through the tooth.
The second method is more widely used because it requires less time and virtually eliminates the chances of error.
The sharpening angle depends on the use of the chainsaw; you can change it yourself. The larger it is, the faster the saw will cope with cutting soft wood.
A larger angle is necessary for hard or frozen wood, which will reduce vibration. Thus, the machine not only allows you to sharpen teeth, but also serves as a tool for tuning the chainsaw.
In most cases, the angle should not go beyond 25 - 35°, but this does not apply to rip saw chains with an angle of 10°.
However, the machine does not guarantee error-free sharpening, because it is only a tool that can be used correctly and incorrectly.
For example, you can make a mistake in choosing the shortest tooth, the sharpening will be uneven, the chain will become dull faster, and the work will wear out the saw mechanism more.
Sharpening too deeply can compromise the strength and durability of the chain links.