Pipe diameter for introducing water into the house. Laying water supply pipes in a private house

Water supply is an essential part of modern home ownership. The ability to use water at any time is not just a comfortable living, but a requirement for sanitation and a component of a healthy lifestyle. A properly designed and installed water supply scheme for a private home can work for decades, gradually being supplemented and, if necessary, modified.

At a dacha or country estate, where water is required for watering plants and raising domestic animals, water supply is part of the technological scheme of the farm. The well-being of the residents largely depends on how effective its work is.

The design of such an important component requires a scrupulous approach. It may not always be possible to install a water supply in a private house with your own hands, but it is necessary to understand how it works, the principles of operation, and be able to check the quality of installation.

Main components of water supply systems

External water supply in a private household includes:

The system connection point is a well, borehole, main line running along the street, spring, open reservoir, etc.
External lines (mains). As a rule, they are laid in an underground trench. The mains can also connect individual buildings of the estate, if this is provided for by the water supply connection diagram in a private house.
Water input nodes for a residential building, as well as other buildings (structures) of the economy (if any).

Intra-house wiring, including engineering equipment, is of three types:

serial or tee;
collector, which is sometimes called loop;
hybrid, representing a combination of the first two.

To save money, the water distribution scheme for a private house, cottage or farm is often divided into two independent circuits: drinking and technical water supply. The first provides the sanitary and domestic needs of the residents of the cottage, the second provides watering for the garden, as well as watering for livestock, if the water quality meets the standards established for this. In addition to cold water supply, the water supply system may include a hot water supply circuit.

Water connection point

The beginning of the water supply scheme for a country house is the water source. Within the city, if there is a developed water supply system in the region where the house or summer cottage is located, the power supply is served by a centralized main.

To make a connection to the highway, you must perform the following steps:

Get permission from those. conditions for connection from the owner of the main line - the city or district management of water and wastewater supply networks.

Build a pit (well, caisson) to place valves and water meters. To do this, a hole is dug in which it is mounted from concrete rings, plastic or ceramic bricks. If a suitable structure already exists, use it.
Make a connection or, as plumbers say, a tie-in. To install it, the main line is blocked, but it is also possible to insert it into an existing line.
Install a valve that allows, if necessary, to shut off the water supply to the house, and install a water meter.
At the final stage, a representative of the water supply system seals the water meter, takes readings, and in some cases even takes a photo of the unit.
Next, a water use agreement is concluded, which indicates the limit of water consumption, as well as the discharge of wastewater (if there is a centralized sewerage system).

At the same time, the well sinuses are filled up, a floor slab and an inspection hatch are installed. Laying a water supply line to the house.

Autonomous sources in the water supply scheme of a private house

In the absence of a central water supply, autonomous sources of water intake are used. The most common are wells and boreholes.

Important! According to legal requirements, the placement of a well or borehole requires permission from local authorities. In addition, if the well is deeper than 5 meters, the law requires that it be put into operation by obtaining a license.

There are three types of wells:

artesian, with a depth of over 50 m. Otherwise, they are also called “limestone”, since underground water lenses are usually located in calcareous rocks.
onto the aquifer or, as they also say, “onto the sand.” Such wells are fed by top water that saturates the sandy layers of the soil;
a needle well, like a sand well, is designed to draw water from shallow groundwater aquifers. Its main difference lies in the technology of the device. A conventional well is drilled or pierced with a bailer, followed by immersion of the casing pipe. A needle well is performed by driving a special perforated pipe all the way to the aquifer.

Shallow wells have a noticeably lower flow rate (the volume of water they produce over a period of time) than artesian wells. The latter are capable of producing from 3 m 3 /hour (the volume depends on the performance of the pump and the diameter of the well). The average flow rate of a well using groundwater is 0.5 m 3 /hour.

Mine water wells are used in shallow aquifers. Their maximum depths reach a little more than 20 m. However, even wells deeper than 10 meters are rarely built.
There are also springs in the areas. In fact, these are natural wells created by cracks in the earth mass or outcrops of aquiferous rock to the surface. Using a spring as a permanent source of water supply is possible with sufficient flow and good quality of water from it.
Open bodies of water: a pond, a lake, a river flowing nearby - another opportunity to get water. This also includes storage tanks for collecting precipitation, popular in arid regions. However, such water intakes rarely provide water suitable for drinking without preliminary purification. But even after this, it is used mainly for technical needs.

Important! The factor of environmental cleanliness should also be given special attention when operating shallow wells or wells. Due to their shallow depth, they are overly susceptible to the influence of sedimentary, as well as nearby sources of pollution in the area. In addition, the productivity of small wells, wells, springs, and open reservoirs is affected by seasonal fluctuations in groundwater levels.

Water intake equipment

Unlike the main water supply, with an autonomous connection, the water supply system in a private house includes equipment for supplying water from a source and creating working pressure in the pipelines, as well as storage tanks.

A variety of pump types are used for supply. They can be divided into two main types:

deep (submersible) - work completely or partially immersed in liquid;
superficial.

Deep well pumps

Submersible pumps are usually used to extract water from wells, wells and reservoirs. The most common types are:

Vibrating. Cheap, small in size and weight, but at the same time low in power and service life. In addition, their vibration has a destructive effect on the walls of wells and leads to accelerated siltation of the water intake.
Centrifugal. Suitable for deep wells, including artesian ones. Capable of supplying water over hundreds of meters, they have high performance and reliability.
Vortex pumps. A type of centrifugal. Capable of creating high pressures. One of the significant disadvantages is high sensitivity to water pollution.
Screw pumps. Simple, reliable, insensitive to foreign impurities. One of the significant drawbacks is low performance. Excellent for water intakes from natural reservoirs, for objects with low water consumption.

Water supply schemes with surface pumps and pumping stations

Surface pumps are conventionally divided into supply and transfer pumps. For water intake (supply), in which the distance to the water surface is small or absent, the first type is used (usually centrifugal self-priming units). For example, when operating storage tanks to collect rainwater.

This type of equipment includes pumping stations. They are distinguished by the presence of automation, as well as a built-in hydraulic accumulator - a metal reservoir with a rubber container inside, into which water flows from the pump. Air is pumped between the walls of the tank and the container under pressure. It is this that compresses when water enters and pushes it back when the pump is turned off and water is drawn. The hydraulic accumulator solves two problems:

Acts as a receiver, maintaining system pressure, reducing the number of pump starts.
Eliminates the danger of water hammer - sudden surges in pressure when the supply or transfer pump is turned on.

Automation serves to maintain constant pressure necessary for the functioning of engineering systems or plumbing equipment. It works like this:

When the tap is opened or the irrigation system is turned on, the pressure in the pipes drops. Thanks to the hydraulic accumulator, this process proceeds smoothly.
At a certain stage, the pressure sensor is activated, turning on the station pump.
When water use stops, the pump still runs for a while, filling the battery.
Shutdown occurs after reaching the upper threshold pressure, which is the end of the cycle.

Important! The theoretical depth from which surface pumps are capable of lifting water is 10 meters (the laws of physics no longer allow it). But in practice this value does not exceed 8 m.

Water storage tanks (storage)

An important part of the indoor plumbing system is the water storage tank. Its capacity is usually taken based on the minimum water requirement per day.

The higher the tank is installed, the better. In houses with more than 2 floors, it is installed on the upper floors or attics, in one-story houses - in attics. Thus, even when there is a power outage on the ground floor, due to the height of the water column, sufficient pressure is created to wash your hands, wash your face, and activate the flush in the toilet.

The system operates as follows:

The water intake pump through the street line supplies water directly to the storage tank. The pump is turned on by a float sensor, which is triggered when the water level drops below a predetermined level.
Water enters the internal pipelines from the tank.
A small booster pump can be used to create a comfortable pressure.

In such a water supply scheme, it is possible to install several outlets in its different sections. For example, with high purity for drinking and cooking, or with coarser purity for sanitary and household needs.

Water purification and disinfection for an autonomous water supply scheme

Water obtained from natural sources does not always meet sanitary standards. Often, the higher the level of its surface, the lower the quality of the composition, and the most problematic is extracted from open reservoirs.

Main stages of water treatment:

At the water intake stage, there is a natural circulation of water through sandy layers of soil in wells or wells. When organizing water supply from open sources, proceed as follows: a pit is dug near the reservoir, reinforced with wooden blocks or stones. It is closed with a lid that prevents the entry of dust, small animals or insects. A drainage channel, fenced with gratings, is left between the pit and the reservoir. The channel is filled with sand and gravel mixture.
Source disinfection. Chemical reagents are used for it, of which bleach is the most popular. It kills most pathogenic bacteria and microorganisms, but its use must be carried out under strict control.
Coarse filters are installed in pits or at the entrance of the water supply circuit to the house. They rid the water of suspended particles, improving clarity.
In-depth water treatment - fine cleaning and disinfection. It uses irradiation with UV lamps, adsorption, membrane, and ion exchange filters. These methods are expensive and low-productivity. Therefore, it is rational to use water that has undergone such treatment only for drinking and cooking.

Important! Simply settling the water in a storage tank also gives some cleaning effect. However, gradually deposits accumulate on its bottom and walls, which must be washed off and the container disinfected.

Read also: Water supply and water treatment for comfortable living in the house

Scheme of the pipeline system of a private house

External pipeline installation

The water intake, storage tank, and engineering systems do not exist on their own, but are linked into a common system using pipelines. Until recently, installation was carried out with steel water pipes. Now they have been almost completely replaced by plastic (polypropylene, polyethylene, polyvinyl chloride) and copper analogues.

The laying and connection of external highways is carried out taking into account their winter operation. To prevent the pipes from freezing, the insertion is carried out below the seasonal freezing level of the soil. To do this, pits are installed near wells or above wells in which valves, pumping equipment (when using surface pumps), etc. are placed. A special quick-release adapter can also be used in wells. It allows you to connect the vertical and horizontal sections of the pipeline through the casing.

External water supply pipes are laid in trenches also below the freezing level of the soil. If for some reason it is impossible to construct trenches of the required depth, the pipes and water intake units are insulated and heated using a heating cable.

During repairs or inspections, pipes must be emptied of water, so it is better to install their horizontal sections with a slope of 0.5% to the general drain point with a discharge valve.

Wiring diagram inside the house

The need to install a pit sometimes arises when introducing pipelines into a building. Typically, shut-off valves, drain taps, and control systems are located here. This turns out to be convenient when it is necessary to repair the intra-house system in winter, when access to a well or water intake pit is difficult.

After water is introduced into the house, if a hydraulic accumulator is not used, it goes to the storage tank. From it through the booster pump directly into the internal water supply circuit. As mentioned above, they come in three types. Of these, there are two main ones:

The sequential or tee system is the simplest. There is one pipe running through the house, from which branches are made through tees to water points. This scheme is suitable for a small country house.
A collector (loop) circuit will help out where there is a significant number of consumers. Although it requires a larger number of pipes, each section can provide the desired pressure and quality of water. In addition, repairs do not require shutting down the entire system. You just need to disconnect the problematic cable.

A separate line is laid to operate the hot water supply system (DHW), as well as to the boiler room to replenish heating radiators and ensure normal coolant recirculation. Water is heated by a storage boiler or instantaneous water heater - electric or gas (double-circuit boiler, gas water heater). These devices are usually located in a separate room - a boiler room, where the water supply line is installed. From the heating system, the wiring is supplemented by another loop - a hot water line. It connects to the shower, to the bathroom faucet, and in the kitchen to the sink faucet.

The water supply lines are completed with shut-off valves: toilet cistern valve, faucets, water taps, solenoid valves for automatic watering, etc.

If there is a vegetable garden, a separate plume is sent for watering. Since the garden does not function in winter, laying pipes for this line in deep trenches is useless. A depth of one and a half to two shovel bayonets, so as not to damage communications when digging up the soil, will be enough.

We calculate the water supply system

It is best if the design of your water supply is carried out by a specialist. However, this is not always possible and is also costly. On the other hand, if we are not talking about a huge palace, but about a typical country house or dacha, then simplified calculations will not be particularly difficult.

First of all, it is necessary to calculate the total number of pipes, connecting and distribution fittings (tees, elbows, couplings, combs, etc.), shut-off valves, and engineering equipment. To do this, you need to draw a general diagram of the water supply distribution in a private house, including pipes for street installation. For two-story buildings and taller buildings, it is better to make a sketch in isometry for clarity. In this case, the scale is not observed, and the required length of the sections is indicated directly on the diagram.

The diameter of the pipelines is calculated using formulas. They take into account the volume of water consumption, pressure, and other parameters. However, for simplified calculations, you can use the following table as a guide:

Plot	Pipe diameter, mm	Material
Laying from the water intake point to the intra-house system and household systems. water supply on site	25÷32	Polyethylene, PVC, polypropylene for external water pipes
In-house wiring:
Risers	20÷25	Polypropylene, copper
Basic domestic plumbing	10÷20	Polymers, copper
Indoor wiring, irrigation system	20÷25	Polypropylene, polyethylene, PVC

To determine whether the flow rate of a source (well) is sufficient, water consumption standards are used. According to SP 30.13330.2012, water consumption per person is 200-350 l/day. This value is multiplied by the number of residents. Water consumption for household needs is also determined by the norms for watering plants and water consumption by domestic animals.

From the resulting total volume of water consumption, knowing the depth of water intake and the height of supply, you can determine the required power and performance of the pump. The volume of the accumulator is calculated. However, for an average two-story cottage, with two bathrooms, with a bath and shower, 50 liters is enough.

A few words in conclusion

Modern materials and construction methods make it possible to assemble a simple water supply scheme for a typical private house with your own hands. However, for a large farm or estate with a large number of residents and a variety of water consumers, it is impossible to do without the involvement of professionals.

Particular attention should be paid to water quality. Be sure to submit samples from your autonomous water intake for SES research. It’s worth doing this at least annually.

The distribution of water supply in a private house is carried out in two ways - collector and sequential connection schemes. You can lay pipes in a hidden or open way.

How to develop a plumbing diagram

In order for everything to work out correctly in the end, before installing the water supply it is necessary to carefully work out the layout of its installation on the street and wiring in the cottage. If this project is done correctly, it will avoid many problems during installation work and subsequent operation of the assembled water supply system.

Water supply scheme for a private house

When developing such a water supply scheme, the following is calculated:

number of water supply points in the house;
the need and number of collectors;
pump power and water heater capacity;
pipe sizes;
characteristics of shut-off valves.

Plus, you select the option of pipe routing (collector or sequential) and the placement of all elements of the water supply system in a private house. At first glance, it is easier to install the same electrical wiring in an apartment or a ventilation system. However, both have their own nuances. And even with the slightest mistakes, there will be many problems in all cases.

External (external) water supply

There are three options, depending on the source of water intake.

If the country water supply is connected to the central one. Why is the connection point determined, and then the pipework goes underground to the house. The main requirement for this scheme is the straightness of the pipe laying in order to reduce the cost of its acquisition, the second is the insulation of the wiring by laying the pipes in insulating cylinders made of foam-type polymer materials. Although you can use any other insulation.
Well. The simplest option for organizing water supply for a private home. A well up to 10 m deep is dug by hand, its trunk is formed, into which the pump is lowered. And a pipe is stretched from it to the house, this is done in exactly the same way as in the case of connecting to the central village water supply.
Well. Everything is the same as with the well. However, it should be noted that water from a well is a liquid of high quality and purity, and in the required volumes. One well can even provide water to several private houses.

Water supply from a well or borehole

Attention! The central water supply does not always provide homes with water at the required pressure. But it will always operate, even if there is a power outage in the village. Unfortunately, the pumps immediately turn off. True, this problem can be solved by installing a storage tank or hydraulic accumulator in the water supply pipes of a private house.
There are several interesting points regarding the ability to avoid high costs by installing an external plumbing system. Firstly, both a well and a well can be built inside the house. This will have to be done before construction of the building begins. Thus, the external water supply becomes an internal one. This means that there is an opportunity to save a lot on laying pipes along the street.

The second concerns the well. You can install a caisson on top of its barrel, which will accommodate a pump, a hydraulic accumulator, an automation unit, some filter elements, and several gate valves. That is, the external part of the water supply network may be difficult in terms of increasing the equipment installed in it.

Well caisson

Internal water supply

The complexity of distributing water around the house is related to the number of consumers (taps and mixers) and their location. Therefore, first of all, it is necessary to develop a scheme. This is the most important stage in the installation process, which should not be neglected. There is nothing difficult in drawing up a diagram. You just need to arm yourself with a tape measure and measure the distances from consumers to the connection points of each device.

Transfer all this to paper, taking into account the size and configuration of the pipes. The diagram will show exactly how many pipes and fittings will need to be used in the installation process, where deviations from straight-line wiring will occur, and where passages through load-bearing and non-load-bearing elements of the building will be installed. And the more rooms are involved in the water supply system, the more complex the scheme will be.

One of the plumbing diagrams

Attention! In the wiring diagram, it is necessary to take into account all the elements of the water supply system: collectors, pumps, filters, tanks and shut-off valves. It must indicate the distances between elements and changes in network configuration.

Step-by-step work algorithm

How to install water in apartments? To replace the old water supply system in an apartment, you can turn to a professional and you will not have to choose the material, wiring diagram and install the system, however, such services are quite expensive. In turn, organizing water distribution in an apartment with your own hands requires careful compliance with building codes and regulations. This event is divided into several main stages:

choice of material. Many people are interested in one question: which pipes to choose for water supply? Pipes can be made of metal, metal-plastic or plastic. Each material has its own characteristics, which must be carefully studied so as not to encounter unexpected problems in the future. Which material is better suited for installing water pipes: polypropylene or metal-plastic? Metal-plastic pipes are most suitable for self-distributing water supply. Installing metal-plastic communications is quite simple, so even a beginner can do this work. In any case, polypropylene or metal-plastic are ideal for water pipes;

choosing a water distribution scheme for the apartment. The installation scheme for water supply communications is determined depending on the type of multi-story building. Today, the most popular are two schemes: serial and parallel. A sequential wiring diagram is used if the water pressure in the apartment is always stable, however, this is extremely rare. Therefore, most often for the installation of a water supply structure, the second option is used, namely: parallel or collector distribution of water supply and sewerage.

The collector distribution system is a modern and more practical option, in such a water supply the pressure will be stable

Note! The main advantage of collector water distribution in an apartment is the ability to control the pressure of the working fluid in individual water intake sources.
Calculation of fittings and other auxiliary elements, as well as the pipeline cross-section. It is recommended to install shut-off valves in front of each water intake source. It is important to remember that the cross-sectional area of the pipes should be smaller than that of the connecting elements.

The fourth point of the diagram includes a list of tools necessary for wiring.

Dismantling old communications and laying new ones. When dismantling an old structure, it is very important to ensure that the cross-sectional area of all outlets and pipes is observed, otherwise you will have to use special adapter couplings.

As a rule, in standard apartments the rooms where the plumbing structures are located have a limited area. In this regard, it is recommended to give preference to the most compact option for laying a water supply. As mentioned above, pipes made of different materials can be used for water supply in an apartment.

Pipe layout: collector or series

Regardless of which source of water supply has been selected, the optimal piping scheme for the facility is selected: sequential or collector piping of the water supply system. When designing a network, you need to pay attention to the following factors:

the number of people living in the house;

frequency of stay in the house;

intensity of water use.

Tee (or sequential) pipe distribution from a heater, main or riser takes place by connecting plumbing equipment one after another. Thus, the installation of the system requires a minimum amount of materials and time, however, this connection method has two significant drawbacks:

Uneven pressure in the system when used simultaneously by several users. That is, for example, when you turn on the water in the bathroom or kitchen, normal water pressure will only be in the tap located closer to the source.

To repair an individual element of the system, it is necessary to completely shut off the water supply to the building.

An example of a series connection of pipes.

With a collector (or parallel) connection, pipes are supplied to the intake points directly from the distribution manifold (individual distributors are provided for hot and cold water). Collector wiring allows all users to constantly receive stable water pressure, regardless of the number of simultaneously turned on plumbing fixtures. The main disadvantage of this method is the large number of pipes, which are difficult and expensive to hide.

Manifold piping on the floor.

In recent years, combined distribution of water supply pipes has become increasingly popular, in which short lines are installed in series and later collected into a collector. This method is a budget alternative to parallel connection of pipes. After all, it requires significantly less material for installation, and in the event of a breakdown, it is enough to turn off the water supply to just one short branch.

Laying methods - hidden and open system

Pipes in the water supply system can be laid in closed or open ways. The choice of one of the methods does not affect the quality of the connections or the functionality of the entire system and depends only on personal preferences.

It would seem that it is not difficult to decide and the closed method is preferable as it is more aesthetic and allows saving up to 10 cm of usable space. Why is an open pipeline still used when installing a water supply system? Let's try to give an answer.

Hidden wiring allows you to hide pipes and not spoil the aesthetic perception of the interior of a house or apartment. The hidden method is used when assembling a water supply system from PP pipes. They hide the contour behind a decorative wall, for example, made of plasterboard, or they groove the walls and insert pipes into the resulting niches, sealing them with facing material or plaster over a mesh.

The pipeline should not be tightly adjacent to the surfaces - always leave a small gap for possible repairs. When installing a pipeline into a monolith, it is recommended to place them in a casing, inserting the pipe into the pipe.

The disadvantage of the method appears when there is a need to repair or replace hidden elements of the system - the plaster or tiling has to be opened and then re-decorated.

In addition, in the event of damage and leaks, the problem may not be detected immediately and lead first to a loss of operational technical characteristics of the structures, then to flooding of the premises.

It is better to start installing a water supply system with a pre-drawn diagram - otherwise errors in calculations or assembly will lead to the need to cut new grooves and re-install the pipes.

To avoid such difficulties, when installing the wiring, only whole sections of the pipe are hidden, placing connecting fittings in open areas. Inconspicuous doors are made in places where shut-off valves are installed. This gives access during maintenance to pipe connections, which are the weakest links in the system.

It should also be noted that pipes made of not all materials can be hidden under a layer of plaster - only products made of polypropylene, metal-plastic or copper are suitable for this.

Open pipe laying is carried out after finishing is completed. The method involves the uncovered laying of pipes and water supply elements. It looks ugly and reduces the usable area of the room, but at the same time this method is very convenient for maintenance, repair and dismantling of elements.

Redevelopment and rearrangement of plumbing in the house with such a plumbing arrangement will also not cause difficulties.

Open wiring makes it possible to quickly detect the location of a leak and eliminate the cause of breakdown or damage to system elements

Main components of the circuit

The water distribution diagram in a private house, or more precisely, the part of it that is responsible for supplying water to the house, consists of the following main components:

pumping unit for a well or borehole,

nipple (adapter),

check valve preventing water backflow,

pipeline,

filter equipment (one or more different filters depending on water quality),

shut-off valves,

hydraulic accumulator,

five-piece (fitting) for connecting the main elements and instruments (pressure gauge, pressure switch, pipes).

Elements of the water supply system of a country house with a well

Pipe selection

Modern plastic pipes are predominantly used due to their reliability, lightness and ease of installation. Metal-plastic and metal have almost gone out of use due to their high cost and less practicality.

Laying out water supply pipes in the house

Installation of metal-plastic requires bending and crimping equipment and serious practical experience. When installing metal pipes, welding is required.

Using plastic pipes with minimal crimping equipment, anyone can create a water supply system with their own hands.

If the house also plans to have hot water supply, pipes with thermal protection are needed.

Reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum, polypropylene pipes will do the job perfectly.

What else is plastic useful for? After welding (a machine for welding polypropylene pipes can be purchased or rented) and pressure testing, plastic connections do not need to be checked or corrected. Pipes can be hidden in the decoration. Do not forget about temperature fluctuations and create S-shaped bends in dangerous places to avoid pipe bursts.

Internal copper pipe routing

But if the high price does not scare you and you are willing to pay for professional installation, choose copper pipes.

Diameter and capacity of water pipe

25 mm 30 liters/min.

32 mm 50 liters/min.

38 mm 75 liters/min.

In order for the system to work flawlessly, it is important to know how to install plumbing in a private house with your own hands correctly. This concept can include both the basic principles regulated by building codes and rules, as well as some nuances and subtleties known to experienced craftsmen.

Ideally, the pipeline should not pass through building structures, however, in practice, creating such a circuit is often impossible or impractical. If it is necessary to conduct communications through the wall, the pipe must be placed in a protective cup.

Despite the fact that the owner of the house almost always wants to get maximum free space and to do this, “press” the pipeline against the wall, there must be a gap of at least 25 mm between the building structures and the communications running parallel to them for easy repair work. The inner corner requires a distance of 40 mm, and the outer corner 15 mm.

If there are drain valves on the pipelines or hydraulic accumulator, a slight slope is made in their direction.

The most convenient way to fix the pipeline to the walls is with special clips. You can choose single or double devices; in any case, the distance between them should be about 2 meters.

When deciding how to install water in a private house, remember that a well-executed internal water supply system has characteristic differences:

Minimum joints and adapters. This improves the reliability and efficiency of the system.

All connections are made in strict accordance with the installation technology of this particular type of pipe.

Availability of valves or shut-off valves in critical areas of the system and at connection points.

A minimum number of not very reliable flexible connection sections (hose connections), which are most vulnerable to pressure changes.

Common installation mistakes

It is best to entrust the design of a water supply system, both collector and tee, to professionals familiar with building codes and capable of performing hydraulic calculations. But even the best project will be useless if mistakes are made during its implementation.

Shut-off valves are part of any water supply scheme: both sequential and collector. They are installed at the entrance to the water supply system, as well as in front of each plumbing fixture.

For example, some would-be craftsmen, driven by the thought of unreasonable savings, neglect the requirement to insulate hot water pipes that are laid under the floor or in the thickness of the walls.

As a result, part of the thermal energy is transferred to the materials surrounding the pipe, which deteriorates the quality of the water. In addition, condensation from the surface of pipes without thermal insulation can damage the finishing of the room.

During installation work, experienced craftsmen recommend covering the ends of pipes that have not yet been installed to prevent debris from getting into them. The absence of this protective measure may lead to the fact that immediately after installation the water supply system will have to be thoroughly and for a long time flushed or even repaired.

When soldering polypropylene water pipes, you should remember that slight dirt or moisture at the soldering site can significantly impair the quality of the work

If soldering of plastic pipes is necessary, all work should be performed in a clean room to avoid contamination. It is also unacceptable to solder pipes that contain even a small amount of moisture. A drop of water or particles of debris at the soldering site can significantly weaken the connection and degrade its quality.

You should not design the water supply system in such a way that all pipes pass through the ceiling through one common hole. This may degrade the performance of the water supply. Professional designers never make such mistakes.

When drawing up a wiring plan, it is necessary to ensure that the pipes do not block access to the joints. This will make repairs much easier in case of a leak.

An insufficient number of locking devices can also cause a lot of trouble during installation work. Such fittings must be present in front of each device to which water is supplied, as well as for each riser. If the house has more than one bathroom, you can install a shut-off valve for each of them.

Simultaneously with the water supply system, sewerage is usually designed and installed. It is necessary to ensure that the pipes and risers of individual systems do not overlap each other. This will make maintenance and repair work easier in the future.

Video

It is difficult to call a cottage in which there is no water supply modern and comfortable for living. Walking with a bucket to a well or pump is something out of fairy tales or old grandmother's stories today. There must be running water in a private home. And you can do it yourself by organizing a water supply from the same well. The situation is even simpler when it is possible to connect to the village centralized network. In this case, it is enough to install only the internal part of the water supply system.

Water supply systems

Water supply to country houses is:

centralized;
decentralized.

In the first option, the water source is the water supply network common to the entire village. To connect a private home to it, you must contact the resource supply organization and obtain specifications for connection. The subsequent insertion into the centralized pipeline will be carried out by the installers of this company, and the distribution of the water supply through the residential building can be done independently.

Home water supply options

In the second option, water enters the house from a well, borehole or river. If such water intake is done on your own property, then you will not need to obtain permits or coordinate anything with government agencies. However, all issues of quality and compliance of the life-giving moisture entering the cottage fall on the shoulders of the home owner.

Plumbing system in a private house

The plumbing system of a private house consists of an external and an internal part. The first includes a street water supply from a water intake or village network and directly a well or well with a pump (if this is a decentralized autonomous option). The second includes the cold water and hot water pipelines located in the house, as well as filters, pumps, fittings and taps.

External part of the water supply system of a private house

How to develop a plumbing diagram

Water supply scheme for a private house

When developing such a water supply scheme, the following is calculated:

number of water supply points in the house;
the need and number of collectors;
pump power and water heater capacity;
pipe sizes;
characteristics of shut-off valves.

Features of pipe selection

Pipes for home water supply can be made of plastic, steel, copper or metal-plastic. Copper will cost the most. But pipelines made from it are not subject to corrosion and deformation during heating (cooling), and they are also not afraid of impurities in water and water hammer.

The easiest way to install plastic options, however, high and low temperatures are strictly contraindicated for them. It is recommended to choose plastic for installation inside the house, and choose steel for the street. Steel pipes are more difficult to connect (welding is required). But they are more reliable, although they are susceptible to rust.

The internal diameter of the pipes is selected based on the estimated volume of water consumption by plumbing fixtures connected to a specific section of the water supply system. In this case, a tubular product with an internal cross-section of 25 mm is capable of flowing about 30 l/min, and with a cross-section of 32 mm – about 50 l/min. Typically, these two sizes are most often chosen for installing an in-house plumbing system. If you take pipes of a smaller diameter, they will make noise, since to increase their throughput you will have to increase the water pressure.

Types of pipes for water supply

To install an external section of water supply with your own hands, they are usually taken from a pipe with thermal insulation with a cross-section of 32 mm. This pipeline will lie in the ground, so special attention must be paid to its insulation. He shouldn't freeze in the winter.

Installing water supply in a cottage in seven steps:

Marking pipe routing, as well as installation locations for equipment and plumbing.
Making holes in the walls for the pipelines to be laid.
Connecting pipes using fittings or welding.
Connecting shut-off valves.
Installation of a water heater (boiler) and pumps with their connection to the assembled water supply system.
Installation of plumbing.
Starting the water and checking for leaks.

It is recommended to leave about 15–20 mm of empty space between the wall and the pipe. This will make it easier to repair the plumbing later if necessary. Also, each branch from the riser to the plumbing should have its own shut-off valve. This way, in the event of an emergency, you won’t have to turn off all the water in a private house, leaving household members completely without it for several hours or even a couple of days.

Connecting the pumping station

The pump or pumping station is installed in a caisson above the well, in the basement or in an outbuilding next to the well. This equipment is sensitive to severe frosts, so it should be located in an insulated, or even better, heated place.

Otherwise, there is a risk that the water inside it and nearby pipes will simply freeze.
It is also possible to install a submersible pump directly into the well.

However, pressure switches and other automation will still require some kind of insulated space in the borehole head or room in the house for them to work correctly.

Schematic diagram of pumping station connection

Hydraulic accumulator

To ensure that the pressure in the cottage’s autonomous water supply system is always constant, a hydraulic accumulator is included with the pump. It not only allows you to control the pressure in the taps, but also reduces wear on pumping equipment. The latter turns on less often. This only happens to fill the accumulator tank, and not every time you open the faucet valve in the kitchen.

If you don’t want to install a hydraulic accumulator, then you can get by with a regular storage tank of 0.5–1 cubic meter installed in the attic. This scheme allows you to do without complex and expensive equipment. At the same time, the pressure in the taps remains quite stable and constant.

Connection diagram for hydraulic accumulator

Water purification

If the quality of the water leaves much to be desired, then the water supply will have to be supplemented with a water purification system. At a minimum, you need a coarse filter. It will remove grains of sand and other large suspended particles from the water flow.

Additional filters are installed after the water has been analyzed for the chemical composition of the impurities present in it. If the content of iron or calcium is high, some treatment devices will be needed, and with increased hardness, others will be needed.

Scheme of water purification in a private house

How not to break the law

To connect to a centralized water supply, you will have to prepare a whole bunch of documents and obtain technical conditions for connection. Without these pieces of paper you cannot cut into a pipe without permission. This will be discovered sooner or later and considerable fines will follow for arbitrariness and water consumption. Here, all connection issues should be resolved exclusively through the organization that controls the water utility.

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Not all private households have running water. Sometimes there is no centralized water supply even down the street. So residents in such settlements use either common wells or wells located in their yard. But we live in a time when running water and sewerage in the home is not a luxury, but a necessity. Thanks to running water in your home, you no longer need to waste time getting water. It can be used for other equally important activities.

Therefore, in this article we will talk about how to supply water to a private house and correctly install water supply through it. Let's look at these questions step by step.

Action plan

Determine the source of water intake (where water will need to be supplied from: well, borehole, centralized water supply)
Determine what material will be used to enter the water supply system into a private house and distribute the water supply inside the house
Determine the locations of water consumers (washbasin, washing machine, bathroom, toilet, etc.)
Draw a diagram of the future water pipeline
Determine your financial resources (this determines who will do the work and what material the water supply will be made from).

These steps will be enough to bring water into the house without complicating the process.

Source of water intake

The water source can be centralized water supply, well, borehole, lake or river. You can use several sources, for example, a well and a centralized water supply. But now we will discuss only the first three.

Centralized water supply

To introduce water into a house from a centralized water supply, you first need to coordinate the connection issues with the authorities that are responsible for this water supply. Then we make the connection using a clamp of the appropriate diameter.

It is better to make an inspection well at the connection point. This way it will be possible to inspect and audit the connection point. We mount it in the clamp emergency shut-off valve, preferably with a removable connection so that it can be easily replaced in case of failure. Well, then we lay the pipe and connect it to the emergency valve.

If the water source is a well or borehole

In both cases, pumping equipment is needed. If the depth of the well is small, then you can use a pumping station. And if the depth exceeds the technical characteristics of pumping stations, then, just like for a well, it is better to use submersible pumps.

The pumping station is usually equipped with an electric motor with a pump attached to it, a hydraulic accumulator (also known as a receiver), a pressure gauge, and mechanical automatic switching on of the electric pump.

For submersible pumps, the hydraulic accumulator, automation and pressure gauge must be installed independently.

Which material to choose for input

Exists several pipe options for organizing water supply in the house, but it is the polypropylene pipe that has proven itself well. The service life is designed for fifty years, it does not oxidize, withstands pressure loads, and is easy to install.

In terms of technical characteristics, such a pipe is inferior only to a copper pipe, but the price compensates for this disadvantage.

It is important to pay attention to the diameter of the input pipe. This determines how comfortable you will be when using your water supply system.

It is better to use a pipe for input diameter 32 millimeters. It is slightly more expensive than a 25 mm pipe, but it will have a good supply of throughput, and this will play an important role in the future when the need arises to add consumption points. Also, it is better to install a pipe that can withstand a pressure of 10 atmospheres.

How to enter water

First you need to determine the place where you will bring the pipe into the house. Then you dig a trench from the house to the location of the water source. The depth of the trench directly depends on the area in which you live. The more the soil freezes during winter frosts, the deeper the trench should be. Sometimes, to make the trench depth smaller, the pipe is insulated. Each layer of such insulation reduces the depth of the trench by 20 centimeters.

How to connect to the central water supply was described above. Well, how to bring water into the house from a well? A pumping station, even the most powerful, may not always be enough. It all depends on the distance of the well from the house. So not far from it make a caisson and a pumping station is installed in it.

A suction pipe is lowered into the well at the level of the trench. Then the pipe is laid horizontally to the caisson, and there it is connected to the pumping station. Afterwards the pipe is laid to the house.

Unlike a well, drawing water from a well does not require making a caisson, since the well can be located both under the house building and outside it. But in any case, the hydraulic accumulator and everything else can be mounted either in the basement or next to the water inlet. A water supply pipe from a well can be routed in the same way as water is routed from a well.

In all cases, the polypropylene pipe should be covered with a small layer of sand before covering it with soil dug from the trench. This will prevent damage to the pipe when backfilling with soil.

At the beginning of the work, it is necessary to make a diagram of the location of your communications throughout the territory.

After we figured it out, how to get water into the house, let's talk about what possibilities there are for distributing water supply around the house.

Regardless of where your water supply comes from, either from a well or a well, or from a central water supply system, there must be an emergency shut-off valve at the inlet. After it, a water consumption meter is installed, if you are connected to a centralized water supply.

Then the input from the well or well is connected if you have a combined water connection. This is followed by the release of cold water for irrigation or for household needs. Next, the filter block is installed. What and how many of them there will be is determined depending on water quality.

After the filter block, a hydraulic accumulator and automatic activation of the well pump are installed. This is the primary circuit, installed immediately after the water is introduced. Now it’s time to choose one scheme from several options for laying out the water supply in a private house.

A private house, unlike an apartment, has a greater range of possibilities regarding the plumbing inside it. Here you can use a series connection of water consumers. It is also called tee. Or you can use a collector circuit for connecting consumers. Let's look at these two schemes.

Serial connection

This circuit includes serial connection of consumers. The washstand, shower, toilet, as well as everything in the kitchen are connected sequentially, one after the other. The advantage is that a small amount of pipe is needed. But there is also disadvantage of this system.

In the case of simultaneous use of consumers, the pressure at distant points of consumption drops. This is especially noticeable when the shower is running: it is very difficult to regulate the water temperature. This is where the inconvenience of this scheme manifests itself. This system is more suitable for a family with a small number of people.

Collector connection

This scheme for connecting consumers requires more pipe, which means it increases the cost of the water supply project. The essence of this system is that after the primary circuit, collectors for cold and hot water are installed at the inlet, and pipes are laid from them to each individual consumer.

This system allows you to simultaneously use water in different places of consumption: in the kitchen, in the shower, and so on. It follows from this that such a scheme is better for comfortable use and suitable for any family.

Sometimes, in order to reduce the cost of the project, but at the same time, get maximum comfort, these two systems are combined. This works well too.

Pipe for internal water supply

There are several options: copper, polypropylene, metal-plastic and steel. Let's look at the main characteristics.

The pipe must be selected depending on your financial capabilities, as well as the technical parameters of the circuits that you use at home. Especially important use quality materials in responsible places for water supply distribution.

Sources of water supply for installing a water supply system can be either centralized water supply networks or private sources located on the site, such as wells or boreholes.

The source of water supply can also be a river or lake, provided the water is sufficiently clean or a purification system is in place.

Connection to centralized networks

Centralized networks have a number of advantages. There is no need to worry about pumps or set up a pumping station, there is no need to set up a bulky storage tank, the cleanliness and pressure of the supplied water should be taken care of by the organization that provides water supply connection services to private homes and facilities.

But this is ideal. It often happens that the water pressure is insufficient, the water is contaminated with rust, money is required to repair the water supply and additional bills arise. In addition, for water provided centrally, you will definitely have to pay according to the meter.

But you don’t need to dig a well, trenches, etc. An application is submitted, permission to connect is obtained, and within a few days a trench for the water supply pipe is dug with special equipment, a pipe is laid, and meters are installed.

The choice of connection type is determined individually. If your water supply network supplies water without interruptions, pressure drops, or contamination, then it is easier to connect to a centralized network.

But with low pressure, water hammer and contamination, you will have to install equipment to regulate water pressure, storage tanks, and powerful cleaning systems. In this case, it is more logical to close your own system to your own water supply source.

Decentralized source of water supply

Installation of water supply in a private house begins with any source that meets sanitary standards for water intake. Well, well, lake, river.

The most convenient and generally accepted option is a well, since in the event of a sudden power outage, and, consequently, the water pump, water can still be obtained manually. A well can play an additional decorative role on the site.

The second most popular is a system with a water well installed directly in the basement of the house. Thus, there is no need to dig trenches for pipes and the water pressure increases, since the pumping station does not need to pump water from afar, and the water supply can be installed directly into a private house.

The problem with this method is that the well can become silted and must be cleaned approximately once every 3-5 years.

The capabilities of different wells may differ in capacity, which depends on the saturation of the aquifer. The standard well width is about 10-15 cm, which allows the use of a submersible pump for water supply, but it is impossible to scoop water from the well.

Cunning homeowners usually supplement the well with a large water tank of 200-500 liters, which allows them to survive a power outage.

We do not consider artesian wells due to the great rarity of this type of source.

The construction of an artesian well is quite expensive, and permission to drill an artesian well is not very easy to obtain, since it will be necessary to justify the need to drill an artesian well.

Typical water supply diagram for a private house

There are only two main schemes. This is a sequential distribution of water and a collector scheme, in which each water intake point has its own pipe and a common collector.

The sequential connection scheme involves laying the main pipeline and using tee inserts, sequential connection of water supply points is carried out. Thus, the water pressure at the first point will be maximum; if several connections are used simultaneously, the water pressure at the last connection will be the weakest. The scheme is economical, easy to install, and quite reliable, but it is not recommended when more than 2 people live at the same time.

The collector water supply scheme is characterized by more complex installation and high cost, but it provides approximately the same water pressure in all areas.

A typical collector water intake scheme looks like this:

Source of water supply.
Water pumping station with hydraulic accumulator. Be sure to choose models with a dry-running relay to avoid damage to the equipment.
Distribution shut-off unit. Designed for water distribution for technical and domestic needs.
A water treatment system is installed on the branch allocated for household needs.
After filtration, the water is divided into cold and hot.
A distribution manifold for cold water and shut-off valves are installed on each branch.
The hot water pipe is connected to the boiler.
A distribution manifold for hot water is installed.

External piping

External water distribution pipes in a private house are installed after all construction work has been completed.

This is the most common scheme in private houses, when the water supply inlet is constructed after occupancy.

The external wiring system is comfortable, safe, allows you to control the water supply system at any stage and provides full access to all equipment. External wiring is easier to install than internal wiring and is more convenient. There are special clips, clamps and pipe fasteners that allow you to perform installation work on external pipe routing as aesthetically pleasing and neat as possible.

It also makes sense to take a closer look at the design of mounting boxes, in which you can comfortably arrange pipes for external installation.

Server mounting boxes for laying fiberglass are perfect for covering pipes with a diameter of less than 4 cm. Ready-made mounting boxes are equipped with a snap-on plastic cover onto which you can stick a decorative strip of wallpaper or other material.

In the absence of ready-made mounting boxes, they can be easily built independently from ordinary wall panels.

Internal water supply distribution

When placing pipes hidden, it is better to use polypropylene and welding. In places where pipes are accessible and not hidden, screw connections are installed.

Hidden water distribution should not hide key points, access to shut-off valves, water distribution systems, and collectors. Between aesthetics and safety and system performance, it is advisable to choose the latter.

Since internal pipe routing is usually carried out during the construction phase, it is highly advisable to simultaneously think through and build a sewer system with the release of waste pipes.

Pipes

Modern plastic pipes are predominantly used due to their reliability, lightness and ease of installation. Metal-plastic and metal have almost gone out of use due to their high cost and less practicality.

Installation of metal-plastic requires bending and crimping equipment and serious practical experience. When installing metal pipes, welding is required.

Using plastic pipes with minimal crimping equipment, anyone can create a water supply system with their own hands.

If the house also plans to have hot water supply, pipes with thermal protection are needed.

Reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum, polypropylene pipes will do the job perfectly.

What else is plastic useful for? After welding (a machine for welding polypropylene pipes can be purchased or rented) and pressure testing, plastic connections do not need to be checked or corrected. Pipes can be hidden in the decoration. Do not forget about temperature fluctuations and create S-shaped bends in dangerous places to avoid pipe bursts.

But if the high price does not scare you and you are willing to pay for professional installation, choose copper pipes.
everything about the Abyssinian well with your own hands, whether it is possible to install a pump on your site and suitable drilling technologies.

Installation of a water supply system

External and internal pipe routing differ approximately like open and hidden wiring.

Hidden plumbing involves placing pipes inside walls or trim. External wiring assumes an open arrangement of pipes.

It makes sense to consider semi-hidden wiring, when pipes are hidden in special boxes, like computer network wiring. The boxes can be left unfinished, or they can be painted or covered with the same material as the walls.

The most difficult moments are to accurately think through an autonomous water supply scheme, individual for each private house, think through the sewerage system and punch holes in the walls for pipes.

When calculating the water supply system, the capacity of the well and the water consumption of each water intake point should be taken into account.

Connections, installation of pipes and equipment in a private home is labor-intensive and painstaking, hard work, but quite feasible for an adult.

To pass through walls, use special pipe gaskets. This will help protect pipes from damage and abrasion and walls from corrosion.
Use threaded connections as much as possible.
When installing drain taps, create a slight slope towards the tap. This will prevent water from accumulating in the system after draining.
Try to avoid unnecessary bends in the plumbing, as bends reduce the pressure in the pipe.
Use the same mounts, splitters and fittings throughout the system.
Be sure to have a small supply of fittings, fasteners, FUM tape, tees, ball valves, gaskets and seals. If you have fulfilled the requirements of the previous paragraph, then spare elements will fit anywhere in the system.
Be sure to install shut-off valves to be able to quickly shut off part of the system.