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Eight secrets of machine knitting. Selection and operation of a knitting machine for the home Procedure and nuances of work

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Crew neck formation

To begin decreasing stitches to form a round neckline, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops are in a segment equal to 7.2 cm according to the construction of the drawing: 3 loops X X 7.2 and 22 loops;
b) calculate how many rows will be knitted at a distance of 8.2 cm: 4.2 rows X 8.2 and 34 rows.
Let's consider decreasing the neck loops when knitting a solid front (for a sweater, jumper, dress). We calculate the reduction of loops for one half of the neck.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in each half of the neck. We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-8 loops to the right and left from the middle of the neck, the second time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the third time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated three or four times). We decrease the remaining loops one by one.
We distribute the decrease, regardless of the number of loops, to the middle of the depth of the neckline, i.e. at a distance of the first 3-4 cm.
In our example, we decrease 22 loops at a distance of 16-17 rows in eight steps (6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2, 1 and 1 loop). We knit the remaining 17-18 rows evenly.
We begin to decrease the loops along the front side of the work (Fig. 271).

271 (Fig. 271) Scheme for decreasing neck loops with a round neckline

Having knitted according to the pattern to the neckline, we divide the entire number of loops into two equal parts and then knit in the following sequence:
1st row (front side) - from the beginning to the middle of the row we knit with the thread of the main ball. In the center of the neckline, we attach a thread from an additional ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (as when fastening a sample) and knit the front row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - knit according to the pattern. On the neck side, we knit the last two loops together purlwise (to get a smooth line of decreasing loops), leave the thread of the additional ball, take the thread of the main ball, close 6 loops with a pigtail (purl loops) and knit the row to the end;
3rd row (front side) - after knitting to the neckline, we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one, leave the thread of the main ball, take an additional thread, close 3 loops with a braid and knit the row to the end;
4th row (wrong side) - knit to the neckline, knit the last 2 loops together, leave the thread of the additional ball, take the main thread, close 3 loops with a braid and knit the row to the end;
5th and 7th rows - from the neck side we knit 2 loops together with the main thread, and then close 2 loops with a pigtail thread of an additional ball;
6th and 8th rows - from the neck side we knit the last 2 loops together with the thread of the additional ball, then close the 2 loops with a braid with the thread of the main ball.
So we gradually decrease 22 loops on each side of the neck. Next we knit evenly.
Reducing the neck loops in the fronts, which are knitted simultaneously with the bar, is done in the same way as indicated in the calculation for a solid front, but in the first row we close all the loops of the bar with a braid in one step. We reduce the remaining number of loops, counting them from the center of the bar according to the pattern.
Reducing neck loops can be done by partial knitting. In this case, open loops are kept along the neckline for further knitting of a stand-up or a solid knitted collar.
Consider decreasing the stitches in each half of the neckline using partial knitting:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half plus 6 loops from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning we knit the loops of the right half of the front, on the left knitting needle we leave the loops of the left half of the front plus 10 loops (6 loops + 4 loops) from the right half of the neck unknitted. Turn the work to the wrong side and knit according to the pattern.
So gradually on the left knitting needle we leave all the loops unknitted, intended to form the cutout of the right half of the neckline, i.e. 6, 4, 3, 3, 2, 2 and 1 loop. Next, from the neck side we knit exactly 17-18 rows. Having finished knitting the right half of the front (when all the loops along the shoulder bevel are decreased), we proceed to knitting the left half. To do this, using the right knitting needle, we pull out new loops from the edge loops of the flat part of the neckline. In the flat part of the neckline, 18 rows were knitted, which formed 9 braid loops along the side edge (18:2). Consequently, we pull out 9 additional loops along the side edge and get 31 loops in the right half of the neck (22 loops 4-9 loops). We knit all the loops to the end of the row and, from the wrong side of the work, begin to partially knit the left half of the neckline. We knit the left half in the same way as the right. Having finished knitting the left half and having received 31 loops on the knitting needle, we knit all the loops of the neck (31 loops + 31 loops = 62 loops). We finish knitting with an auxiliary thread or transfer the loops to a spare knitting needle.
When designing the neck of products without a fastener, you should increase the neckline by 2-3 cm around the entire circumference. For this neck shape, it is recommended to distribute the decrease in stitches along the entire length of the oval. In this case, the loops are decreased at a distance of 34 rows, i.e. in 17 techniques, which means that the reduction of loops will have to be done not in each row, but after a certain number of rows.
In our example, we need to decrease 22 loops in the following sequence: 7, 5 and 3 loops every other row and seven times 1 loop in every 4th row.

Reducing stitches along the sleeve head line

Having knitted to the armhole line, we calculate the decrease in loops along the line of the sleeve head. To correctly calculate the decrease in the loops of the sleeve head, we divide the height of the sleeve head into three equal parts (Fig. 272).

272 (Fig. 272) Scheme for decreasing loops along the edging line of the sleeve head

According to the construction of the drawing, the segment is equal to 16 cm: 16 cm: 3 = 5.3 cm.
We get points K and K1. Draw a horizontal line through point K1. The points of intersection with the okat line are designated by the letters K2 and K3 (see drawing). Section KChK3 - control line. We determine how many rows will be knitted in each part: 4.2 rows X 5.3 ~ 22 rows.
The size of the segment GKhG2 (sleeve width along the armhole line) is 36 cm, or 108 loops (3 loops X 36 cm = 108 loops). Therefore, along the cuff line of the sleeve, you need to decrease 108 loops. We calculate the decrease in loops of the sleeve head for each half separately.
Let's consider decreasing the loops from the back, i.e. on the left. On the finished drawing we measure the size of the segment K2K: K2K1 = 8.1 cm, or 3 loops X 8.1 “24 loops.

The segment G,G is equal to 54 loops (108 loops: 2). We determine how many loops need to be reduced from the armhole line to the beginning of the third part, i.e. to the control line K2K3. To do this, from the number of loops in segment D, subtract the number of loops in segment KK1: 54 loops - 24 loops = 30 loops.
Thus, it is necessary to distribute the decrease of 30 loops over a distance of 44 rows (the number of rows of the first and second parts).
From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 4-5 decreases made along the lower edge of the back armhole (segment G1G2). In our example, in the left half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 5, 3, three times 2 and 10 times 1 loop in every 2nd row, i.e. every other row. and then three times 1 loop in every 4th row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the purl row.
Let's consider decreasing the loops along the line of the sleeve head from the front, i.e. on the right.
The G2G segment is equal to 1/2 of the G1G2 segment or 54 loops (108 loops: 2).
The KKH segment when measured is 6.9 cm: 3 loops X 6.9 “21 loops.
Therefore, on the right we decrease 33 loops (54 loops - 21 loops). From the armhole line, we first decrease the number of loops equal to the first 3-4 decreases made along the lower edge of the front armhole. In our example, in the right half of the sleeve head we will decrease: 6, 4, 3, 2 loops and 17 times 1 loop in every 2nd row. We begin decreasing stitches at the beginning of the front row.
We calculate the decrease in loops in the third part. Along the K2K3 line we have 45 loops (24 loops + 21 loops), which must be decreased at a distance of 22 rows.
It is recommended to leave a flat part (8-12 loops) at the top of the okat, which means that you only need to subtract 37 loops (45 loops - 8 loops).
On the left we decrease the loops in the following sequence: seven times 1 and three times 4 loops in every second row, and on the right eight times 1, two times 3 and once 4 loops in each 2nd row, close the remaining 8 loops in one braid technique.

Additional dart in the armhole

Starting from size 48 (in cases where the product is knitted in stocking stitch), we recommend making an additional dart in the armhole. The length of the dart for all sizes is within 3-5 cm, and its depth does not exceed 1.5-2.5 cm. We perform the dart by partial knitting in elongated rows, which we knit from the middle of the fabric to the outer edge of the armhole.
To perform a dart, we make the following calculation:
a) determine how many loops there will be along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 5 = 15 loops « 16 (rounded to an even number);
b) calculate the number of rows according to the depth of the dart. The tuck depth is 2 cm, making 8 rows (4.2 rows X 2), or 4 phases;
c) determine how many loops we will lengthen each row by when knitting an additional dart: 16 loops: 4 = 4 loops.
Let's consider knitting an additional dart in the right front.
The width of the shelf including the fastener bar is 29 cm, or 87 loops (3 loops X 29 = 87 loops).
We begin knitting an additional dart after we complete the first 4 decreases (phases) along the lower edge of the armhole, i.e. when on the left knitting needle at the end of the front row there are 15 loops unknitted (6, 4, 3 and 2 loops), and 8 rows are knitted from the armhole line (Fig. 270). Next we knit like this:
9th row (front side) - knit 45 loops, do not knit the remaining 42 on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side. Thus, on the left knitting needle all the loops of the lower edge of the armhole and the loops intended for additional dart remain unknitted (26 loops + 16 loops = 42 loops);
10th row (wrong side) - knit 45 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - knit 49 loops (45 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 38 loops on the left knitting needle. Turn the work to the wrong side

270 (Fig. 270) Pattern for decreasing loops in the armhole and knitting an additional dart

Completed the 1st phase of partial knitting with extended rows);
12th row - knit 49 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit 53 loops (49 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 34 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 2nd phase);
14th row - knit 53 loops according to the pattern;
15th row - knit 57 loops (53 loops + 4 loops), do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle. We turn the work to the wrong side (we completed the 3rd phase);
16th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
17th row - knit 72 loops:
Thus, 15 loops remain unknitted on the left knitting needle, as before the start of knitting the additional dart.
From this row we continue the interrupted decrease in stitches along the lower edge of the armhole. At the end of the front row, we leave 1 loop undone seven more times (see “Decreasing loops along the lower edge of the front armhole”). When 22 loops are left unknitted on the left knitting needle from the armhole side, we knit the front row, and at the beginning of the next row we close 22 loops with a braid.
Then we knit strictly according to the pattern and, according to the calculation, we decrease four more times, 1 loop in every 4th row from the armhole side, i.e., a total of 26 loops are decreased along the lower edge of the front armhole.
When knitting an additional dart, you can reduce the distance from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel by 1 cm.
Thus, when knitting a front for large sizes, you can use any type of dart. You can combine a side dart and an additional side dart
and horizontal, but the entire length of the finished product should be taken into account.
We calculate and perform the reduction of loops along the shoulder bevel in the same way as when knitting the back.

Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the front armhole

We decrease the loops along the lower edge of the armhole on the section G6G7. We determine the size of the segments in the same way as when calculating the backrest. If you need to decrease a small number of stitches along the lower edge of the armhole (16-18 stitches), do this in the same way as when knitting the back. But when knitting large items along the lower edge of the armhole, it is necessary to reduce a larger number of loops - from 25 to 45 loops, depending on the knitting density and the size of the segment. In our example, the length of the segment is 8.5 cm: 3 loops X 8.5 ~ 26 loops.
The size of the segment G7PA is 8.5 cm, or: 4.2 rows X 8.5 « 36 rows.
Therefore, you need to decrease 26 loops at a distance of 36 rows, or in 18 steps (phases).
You can decrease the loops by using partial knitting in short rows or covering them with a braid, as when finishing knitting, i.e., the same way as in the back.
We decrease the loops in approximately the following sequence: the first time we decrease 6-7 loops, the second time - 4-5 loops, the third time - 3-4 loops (can be repeated two or three times), the fourth time - 2-3 loops (can be repeated two or three times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop each time, i.e., knitting 2 loops together.
In our example, we decrease 6, 4, 3, 2 loops, seven times 1 loop in every 2nd row and four times 1 loop in every 4th row.
When covering the loops of the last row, you can pull the last row or knit 2-3 loops together to get a slight fit of the fabric along the lower edge of the armhole.
To the line of the shoulder bevel at the distance of the segment we add from 4 to 6 loops (if required by the pattern). We calculate the addition of loops in the same way as when knitting the back (at the distance of the segment). In some cases (very narrow shoulders), we decrease loops from the armhole line to the beginning of the shoulder bevel.

Formation of a horizontal (radial) dart

When knitting items with a sewn-in sleeve of small sizes, we lengthen the front, as in a jacket with a raglan sleeve. If we knit a product of a large size, starting from the 50th, it is recommended to use a horizontal dart.
We obtain such a dart by partial knitting in long and shortened rows (it is recommended to use the second method of partial knitting). The dart line is located at a distance of 4-6 cm from the armhole line. To start making the tuck, you should make the following calculation:
a) determine the depth of the tuck. In our example, the depth of the dart is 3 cm (see “Calculating the balance of the product”);
b) determine the length of the dart. Set the dart length in the same way as when knitting a jacket with sleeves
raglan (see “Horizontal dart”). In our example, the length of the dart is 15 cm. We calculate the number of loops along the length of the dart: 3 loops X 15 = 45 loops;
c) we establish how many rows need to be knitted at a distance of 3 cm (dart depth): 4.2 rows x 3 ~ « 12 rows (rounded to an even number of rows).
The tuck is done in two types of partial knitting. We distribute 6 rows for each type of knitting (12 rows: 2 or 3 phases.
We determine how many loops we will lengthen or shorten the row in one phase: 45 loops: 3 = 15 loops.
Let's consider the technology of knitting a horizontal dart in the right shelf (Fig. 269). The first half of the dart is made in long rows from the middle of the fabric towards the side line, and the second half in short rows from the side line towards the middle of the fabric. The width of the shelf together with the strap is 29 cm, of which we knit 25 cm (3 loops X 25 cm = 75 loops) with a shelf pattern and 4 cm (3 loops X 4 cm = 12 loops) with a strip pattern. For the entire width of the shelf, cast on 87 loops (3 loops X 29 cm = 87 loops).
Having knitted to the dart line, we begin to knit in extended rows:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops according to the pattern (of which 15 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;

269 ​​(Fig. 269) Knitting pattern for horizontal dart

2nd row (wrong side) - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
3rd row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern (of which 30 loops are intended for darts), we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
4th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
5th and 6th rows - knit all the loops of the row to the end.
We knit the second half of the dart in short rows;
7th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 72 loops according to the pattern, we do not knit the remaining 15 loops on the left knitting needle until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
8th row - knit 72 loops according to the pattern;
9th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 57 loops, the remaining 30 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
10th row - knit 57 loops according to the pattern;
11th row - at the beginning of the row we knit 42 loops, the remaining 45 loops on the left knitting needle are not knitted until the end of the row. Turn the work to the wrong side;
12th row - knit 42 loops according to the pattern;
13th row - knit all 87 loops of the row to the end.

Formation of the shoulder bevel line

To determine in what sequence it is necessary to decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel PHA2, we make the following calculation:
a) according to the finished drawing, we establish the size of the segment Pha: P^a = 14 cm, or 3 loops X 14 = 42 loops;
b) determine how many rows will be knitted in segment A^a equal to 5.8 cm (height of the shoulder bevel): 4.2 rows 5.8 ~ 24 rows;
c) we decrease the loops along the shoulder bevel, covering them with a pigtail, as at the end of knitting, or using partial knitting in shortened rows. In any case, we decrease 42 loops in 12 steps, or 12 phases (24 rows: 2);
d) determine how many loops need to be decreased in one step: 42 loops: 12 = 3.5 loops. When dividing, we get a fractional number, so we will decrease, alternating 3 and 4 loops.
Using the technique of fastening the loops with a pigtail, at the beginning of each row we close off 2 loops, in the next decrease - 3, and at the end of each row we knit the last 2 loops together. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of the shoulder bevel.
When decreasing loops by partial knitting at the end of each row on the left knitting needle, leave 3 loops unknitted once, 4 loops another time - until 42 loops remain unknitted on each side. Then we knit all the loops along the shoulder bevel and close them in a row with a pigtail.
We decrease the sprout stitches in the same way as when knitting a jacket with raglan sleeves.

Product balance calculation

Good fit of the product depends on determining the balance, i.e. the difference between the length of the back to the waist and the actual length of the front to the waist.
In our example, the length of the back to the waist is 39.5 cm. The length of the front, measured from the 7th cervical vertebra (Fig. 255), is 53.5 cm. [Next...] To more accurately determine the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract from this value the distance along the curve from the 7th cervical vertebra to the highest point of the neck, i.e. the value of the segment AA2 (we measure it according to the drawing with a centimeter placed on the edge): AA2 = 7.8 cm.
Therefore, the actual front length will be: 53.5 cm - 7.8 cm = 45.7 cm.
Now, to establish the balance value, subtract the back length from the actual length of the front: 45.7 cm - 39.5 cm = 6.2 cm.
Thus, the front should be 6.2 cm longer than the back.
We check the length of the front to the waist in the drawing. The proposed construction provides for an increase in the shelf for all sizes by 3.5-4 cm. This value includes 1 cm (allowance for the length of the back for the convexity of the shoulder blades) plus the height of the sprout (segment A1A2), equal to 2.5-3 cm. Therefore, the length the front in the finished drawing is equal to the length of the back to the waist (39.5 cm) plus the increase (1 cm + 2.5 cm = 3.5 cm): 39.5 cm + 3.5 cm = 43 cm.
In order to determine the amount by which the front will need to be lengthened when knitting, the value taken to increase the front when constructing the drawing should be subtracted from the balance value of the product. In our example: 6.2 cm - 3.5 cm » 3 cm.
Therefore, when knitting, you need to lengthen the front by 3 cm. The resulting value can serve as the depth of the dart.
You can also set the depth of the dart in another way: from the actual length of the front to the waist, subtract the length of the front obtained when constructing the drawing: 45.7 cm - 43 cm = “3 cm.

The second method of decreasing armhole loops

Decreasing stitches along the lower edge of the armhole can be done by partial knitting in short rows. To do this, at the end of each row we leave the loops unknitted in the following sequence: 5, 3, 2 and 1 loop, i.e. the number of loops that, according to the calculation, we decrease in each row.
To finish partial knitting, first on the front side of the work, and then on the wrong side, we knit all the loops to the end of the row, and at the beginning of the next row we close off 14 loops with a braid. The remaining loops that still need to be decreased (in our example there are 4 loops, i.e. 18 loops - 14 loops), we decrease 1 loop in every 4th row. In total we decrease 18 loops on each side of the back.
Next we knit, adding loops along the G3P line (if the shape of the pattern requires it). To determine how many loops the back should be expanded to the beginning of the shoulder bevel, you should mark on the drawing of the back the point of intersection of the line of the beginning of the shoulder bevel with the vertical line A3G, the letter P.

268 (Fig. 268) Pattern for decreasing loops along the lower edge of the back armhole

We measure the size of the segment Pkhp according to the finished drawing. In our example P1, n = 1.7 cm, or 3 loops X 1.7 « 5 loops. Also, using the finished drawing, we measure the size of the segment G3p: G3i = 13.6 cm, or 4.2 rows X 13.6 “ ~ 57 rows.
We determine how many rows we will add loops: 57 rows: 5 = 11 rows.
Therefore, in every 11th row we will add 1 loop on both sides.

The first method of decreasing armhole loops

Let us consider in detail the decrease of 18 loops at a distance of 25 rows (Fig. 268). We start decreasing the loops from the front side of the work:
1st row (front side) - at the beginning of the row with facial loops we close 5 loops with a braid, as at the end of knitting, and knit the row to the end;
2nd row (wrong side) - at the beginning of the row we purl 5 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last two loops together with a purl;
Let us remember that if, when decreasing loops at the end of each row, the last 2 loops are knitted together, then at the beginning of the next row one less loop is decreased than indicated in the calculation.
So, for example, at the beginning of the 3rd row we close with a braid not 3, but only 2 loops. As a result of this decrease, we get a smooth line of decreasing loops.
3rd and 5th rows (front side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit the last 2 loops together with the front one;
4th and 6th rows (wrong side) - at the beginning we close 2 loops with a braid, and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together with the wrong side;
7th and 9th rows - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 stitches together;
8th row - at the beginning and at the end of the row we knit 2 loops together purlwise;
10th row - at the beginning we knit the first 2 loops together purlwise.
Thus, in 10 rows on each side, 15 loops were decreased, therefore, 3 more loops need to be decreased:
a) on the front side of the work in the 13th, 17th and 21st rows we decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row;
b) on the wrong side of the work in the 14th, 18th and 22nd rows we also decrease 1 loop each, knitting the first 2 loops together at the beginning of the row.

Decrease stitches along the bottom edge of the armhole

According to the construction of the drawing, the size of the segment G,G2 (the lower edge of the armhole) is equal to 6 cm. We determine how many loops need to be subtracted in the segment GKG2: 3 loops X 6 = 18 loops.
We decrease the loops at a distance of segment GCH3 equal to 6 cm. We determine how many will be
knitted rows: 4.2 rows x 6 = ~ 25 rows.
Therefore, at approximately a distance of 25 rows on each side, we decrease 18 loops.
We decrease loops along the lower edge of the armhole (when knitting any size) in approximately the following sequence:
a) for the first time we decrease (close with a braid, as at the end of knitting) from 4 to 6 loops;
b) the second time - 3 loops each (this decrease can be repeated 2-3 times);
c) for the third and fourth times - 2 loops each (can be repeated 3-4 times). We decrease the remaining loops, casting off 1 loop in every second row (or after 3 rows in the 4th).
In our example, we decrease 18 loops in the following sequence: 5, 3, 3, 2 and 1 loop in every second row, i.e. every other row. We decrease the remaining 4 loops by 1 loop every 3 rows in the 4th.

So, the long-awaited purchase of a knitting machine took place. However, figuring out how to knit on a machine on your own is quite difficult. Today there are many knitting machines, each of which has its own advantages and features.

Where to start?

If you decide to figure out how to learn how to knit on a machine, then you need to understand that in any type of work you must follow certain rules. Before you start working with the machine, you must read the instructions for it. First you need to understand what functions a knitting machine can perform.

Thread selection

So, the permissible thread density is determined by the class of the machine. Thus, there are cars of 3, 5, 7 classes. Each class of machine has its own number of needles, and the thread density depends on it.

The third class is equipped with needles in the amount of 120-150 needles. This equipment can use large yarn. The fifth grade has 180-200 needles. In this case, the use of a medium type of yarn is allowed. The seventh class of machines is equipped with 250 needles. For such machines you can only use fine yarn.

Testing

Naturally, an inexperienced knitter will not be able to create a high-quality product for the first time. First, you just need to learn how to handle the machine, and then gradually approach the most crucial moment, for which everything was started: how to knit on a machine. To do this, you need to take a small thread whose parameters correspond to the class of the machine. It is advisable to take a thread of light shades so that it is better visible during the work process.

For the first time using the machine, you need to take yarn consisting of one thread. If you work with several thin threads at the same time, you cannot avoid tangling and delamination. Ideal parameters for yarn that can be used for the first time when working with absolutely any brand of machine: 500-350 m per 100 grams. Threads can be purchased at any handicraft store; you just need to indicate to the seller the necessary parameters.

Winder and pincushion

To operate the machine you will need a hand winder. It is necessary in order to rewind the skeins before starting work. With its help, the skein takes on a cylindrical shape, and this greatly simplifies the process of threading the machine. The winder will also allow the yarn to be fed into the machine without snags or knots.

Further in the work you need to pay maximum attention to the needle bar, as well as the carriage (the moving part of the machine). It is necessary to see where these parts are located at the first stage, at the beginning of working with the machine’s instructions.

Initial exercises

It is better to start knitting on a machine with basic exercises. One of these exercises is casting on loops on machine needles. After this exercise is mastered, you can move on to other more complex ones. For example, you can start using different types of thread weaves. Then you can move on to more complex options, namely try the following manipulations:

  • add one loop as the carriage moves;
  • move the loops to perform openwork knitting;
  • fasten the loops.

Making the first product

Once the basic techniques for operating the machine have been mastered, you can proceed to the manufacture of the first product. A product model is suitable, for the creation of which you need to use one type of thread and the same pattern. It is worth paying attention to the patterns. For beginners, it is recommended to take models with ready-made patterns, then mistakes can be avoided.

As a rule, if a pattern is taken from a popular magazine or book, then complete instructions, which contain step-by-step actions for creating a specific model, are described there.

Common mistakes

When the model of the future product is chosen, it is necessary to carefully consider all the patterns that will have to be made. These patterns need to be created on a typewriter as a sample. Samples are required to avoid errors in length and width. Using samples, you can calculate how many loops you will need to make to achieve the desired parameters. Do not try to neglect this stage of work, since the width of the loops on the needles will be completely different, which means that mistakes cannot be avoided in this case.

It happens that you don’t like the result at all. For example, the product does not fit at the waist. Then it’s better to dissolve what happened. Products are usually unraveled using a special winder.

It's natural to make mistakes when starting to learn machine knitting. Therefore, if something doesn’t work out, don’t despair. In order to understand how to knit on a knitting machine, you can seek help from craftswomen on special forums or purchase video tutorials for beginners.

Knitting is the favorite craft of many women. Some people make only small things - socks, mittens, scarves. Other craftswomen go further and make sweaters, skirts or dresses to order. To make their work easier, such women should definitely purchase a knitting machine and learn how to use it.

There are a variety of models of such equipment on sale today, differing in functionality, design, level of equipment, etc. In principle, a device such as a knitting machine is not too difficult to use. Almost any model is suitable for beginning needlewomen. But it’s better, of course, to try your hand at equipment that has the simplest design.

Types of knitting machines

There are only two main types of such equipment offered on the modern market: industrial and intended for domestic use. All machines used at home belong to the class of flat knitting machines. However, they may differ:

    By the number of needle beds. For knitting things, single- and double-font machines can be used.

    By class. Each model is designed for a specific range of yarn thickness.

    By type of control. There are conventional mechanical machines, punched card machines and computer machines.

Single-flow machines: design features

A typical representative of equipment of this type is the domestic model “Neva-5”, familiar to almost all experienced needlewomen. This one is best suited for beginner needlewomen. The design of this device is very simple. The machine kit includes:

    Thread guides and thread guides.

    The carriage, which is actually responsible for knitting.

    Row counter.

    Metal needles with tongues.

    The plates are the rails on which the carriage runs.

The single-font machine can be fixed on any table using special screws.

Single-flow machines: operating principle

This option will be simply ideal for a beginning needlewoman. Single-loop machines can be used to perform all basic types of knitting. Learning to work with such equipment will not be difficult. The technique for manufacturing products using single-font machines is approximately as follows:

    The yarn is pulled through the thread guide block, thread guide and a special hole in the carriage.

    Using a special ruler, the required number of needles is pushed forward.

    The yarn is not pulled too tightly over them (otherwise the carriage may tear it).

    Using a special screw, the required knitting density is set (depending on the thickness of the yarn).

    The carriage levers are moved to the working position.

    The first row is knitted.

    To ensure that the loops do not jump off the needles during further work, a pull comb is suspended from them (not in all models).

If you simply move the carriage to the right/left, you will get a regular stitch. To knit an openwork item, you need to use a special tool, a decker, to rehang the loops from one needle to another according to the pattern pattern.

Which single-flow model should you buy?

"Neva-5" is a very easy to use knitting machine. For beginners, in addition to this popular model, the “Severyanka” is most likely also a good choice. Unfortunately, the production of knitting machines in our country has now been completely discontinued. Therefore, you can only buy a domestic model, including the Neva-5 or Severyanka, second-hand. Those needlewomen who prefer new equipment should take a closer look at the imported single-frame Toyota or Silver models. Brother brand equipment also enjoys a good reputation among knitters.

Advantages of double-font machines

Using a model with two needle beds allows you to knit better quality items. The fact is that only flat parts can be produced on a single-frame device. At the end of the knitting, the sleeves and sides have to be joined together using a sewing machine. In addition, products made on such equipment have both a front and a back. Thus, on the reverse side of things associated with the use of threads of several colors, unsightly broaches remain. Such products will not be particularly comfortable to wear. When putting on, for example, an ornamented sweater, the broach can be easily hooked and pulled out. This creates an unsightly dent on the front side. You won’t be able to knit even elastic bands on such a machine (only decoys).

Double-face models do not have all these disadvantages. Knitting on a knitting machine for beginning needlewomen in this case will be more difficult, since devices of this type have two needle beds. However, by adapting to such a model, it is possible to make things in which both sides look like front ones. Elastic bands are also knitted using a two-piece machine. The procedure in this case will be quite lengthy, and many operations will have to be performed manually. However, elastic bands knitted by machine are much smoother and of higher quality than those made using knitting needles.

The best models of two-font machines

Structurally, such equipment differs from single-piece equipment only in that it has a special attachment that allows for circular knitting. If desired, such an addition can be purchased for all brands of knitting machines discussed above, with the exception of the Severyanka and Toyota models.

Knitting machine classes

Of course, before buying a knitting machine, you should decide what exactly it is needed for. The fact is that different models are designed to work with yarn of different thicknesses. If you only want to knit socks, mittens and thick sweaters, you should buy a class three machine. Such models are designed to work with yarn 100-200 meters/100 grams. These machines can take such a thick thread due to the fact that their needles are located quite far from each other.

Class 5 models are designed for the manufacture of both fairly thick and thin items (300-500 meters/100 grams). This knitting machine is best suited for beginner needlewomen. Using it, you can make mittens or socks, as well as sweaters or scarves. It is to this group that, for example, the same “Neva-5” belongs.

Class 7 machines are designed for making only very thin items from 500-600 meters/100 grams of yarn.

What is a punch card model?

Today there is equipment on sale that is quite easy to use, with which you can make very beautiful products with patterns. The punched card model is also a good answer to the question of which knitting machine to choose for beginning needlewomen. In a device of this type, needle selection is performed using special cards with holes, the location of which corresponds to the pattern of the pattern. The design of models of this variety, in addition to the main elements, includes a special device - a puncher, into which the card is inserted.

Computer machines

PC-powered equipment is, of course, the most expensive and convenient type. The needles in such machines are controlled using not a punched card, but special software installed on a home computer. The convenience of electronic models is that you can knit a variety of patterns on them without limiting the loops and along given contours.

Knitting as a process of creating irreplaceable high-quality clothes from knitwear, which is suitable for any season, has long become an integral part of modern life.

If the process of creating coziness with your own hands brings pleasure, and the thought that you will be able to create things on your own that you could only dream of before or order from expensive studios does not leave you, then machine knitting is definitely your hobby. Most needlewomen come to automate the process after mastering a hook and knitting needles, but you can immediately start working on a machine.

Knitting by car as a hobby

What are the advantages of machine knitting over other types of needlework:

  • You yourself create an exclusive model, being the creator of the material, style and color scheme.
  • A knitted item that you knit has more than one life - you can unravel it and, after some processing of the threads, knit something else, and so on until you get tired of it.
  • Knitted patches, knitted as a sample when calculating loops for the next model, can be used to cover stools, create a patchwork quilt, an original bag, oven mitts in the kitchen, or a warm rug for your favorite tailed pets.

Machine knitting allows you to bring the result as close as possible to the factory one, while the item always remains exclusive. If desired, this can easily be turned into an additional source of household income.

To start mastering this type of needlework, you will need not only desire, but also a special machine.

How to choose a knitting machine

Knitting machines are of great interest because they make it possible to make dreams come true. Just imagine, in one evening you can knit a blouse and come to work in it the next morning, although just yesterday you and your colleagues were looking at this model in the latest fashion magazine.

Specialized stores offer:

  • single-face flat knitting and double-face knitting machines;
  • manual or automated;
  • with or without software.

Single-circuit knitting machines such as “Severyanka”, “Neva-5”, Silver, Toyota knit any single knitted fabric that has a front and back side (as when knitting). With two-color machine knitting, broaches remain on the wrong side.

Double-circuit machines like Brother 965i (Brother), Silver, Toyota knit double-sided fabric and various elastic bands (2x2, 2x1, 3x1, 3x2, etc.). When knitting in two colors, there are no broaches of thread. Double-font machines are a complex and expensive device on which you can create endlessly, the possibilities are unlimited.

Knitting machines are produced in different classes; the higher the class, that is, the numbers in the marking, the thinner the knitted fabric, the smaller the diameter of the knitting needles and the thickness of the yarn. Class 5 machines are most suitable for home use. For example, “Neva-5” is a 5th class vehicle.
When choosing, consider the knitting method:

  • manual, when the design is created by hand on the background using special decking needles;
  • using a punched card on which a design is printed, and the machine sequentially knits according to this punched card;
  • using software.

For multi-colored knitting, the kit includes a special device; if it is not available, it must be purchased separately.

Focusing on these characteristics, taking into account your capabilities and the time that you can devote to knitting, choose a new assistant.

Features of yarn selection

Yarn for machine knitting must be wear-resistant, elastic and at the same time durable. Woolen and half-woolen yarn No. 32/2 meets these properties. It is sold in large reels on cones. Products made from such yarn can be knitted by joining it in 3, 4 or 5 threads.

In order for the knitting fabric to be smooth, uniform and beautiful, the thread tension must be uniform. If the yarn is wound into balls, this will not happen. You can't knit from balls on a machine! Therefore, before work, it is better to rewind the yarn into bobbins using a special “winder-carousel” device.

For openwork and summer products, use cotton yarn No. 40/2; No. 34/2; No. 54/2, iris, silk and lurex. You cannot use heavily twisted yarn, as the fabric turns out to be slanted and it is impossible to straighten it. Any synthetic material, especially thin ones, should be used with caution, since when ironed, this yarn seems to “glaze over” and the product loses its attractive appearance.

When machine knitting, it is often necessary to leave loops open at the beginning or end of work. To prevent them from unraveling, use an auxiliary thread, which must be removed after finishing the work. Floss, darning, lavsan or unnecessary, waste cotton threads are suitable for this purpose.

When creating multi-colored products, do not forget that wool can fade during wet heat treatment, and therefore it is worth choosing combinations of colors used with special care. Before you start knitting the main item, you should definitely knit a test sample and steam it.

How to organize your workplace

So, you have decided to buy a knitting machine. This is a complex apparatus that requires a stable, smooth surface. An ironing board, window sill or coffee table will not work. For these purposes, it is worth allocating a separate well-lit place in the apartment so that direct rays of the sun do not fall, since the surface of the needle beds in most cases is metal and the glare of the sun will interfere with work. An additional light source is required so that every loop on the machine needles can be seen.

Workplace equipment:

  • ironing board;
  • steam iron;
  • winder;
  • measuring tape, scissors, safety pins, chalk;
  • knitted needles with a large eye of different sizes for knitting, pins for knitwear;
  • a square or rectangular frame for calculating loops and rows on a sample with centimeter markings applied;
  • a sewing machine, if you will sew parts of knitwear;
  • sewing oil in an oil dish.

All this should be within arm's reach while working. Also take note of additional information about.

Algorithm of actions when knitting on a machine

Learning to machine knit is no more difficult than mastering the technique of creating patterns with knitting needles and. As a rule, manufacturers of knitting machines include detailed operating instructions for each model.

Procedure and nuances of work

  1. Strictly following the instructions, strengthen the needle beds of the knitting machine according to the attached drawings so that there is no vibration when knitting.
  2. Install thread tensioners, sort out the weights: large ones for the main fabric, small ones for the edges of the knitted fabric.
  3. Place the deckers and loop-catching needles in a separate box.
  4. Wipe the entire machine with a flannel cloth to remove engine oil from the iron parts.
  5. Thread the pre-prepared threads and knit the sample on the needles; you should knit at least 30 rows, while simultaneously setting the knitting density on the counter. For example, we knitted 50 rows at one density, separate them with an auxiliary thread (two rows), changed the density to a lower or higher direction, again knitted 50 rows and again with an auxiliary thread. In this case, the carriage should move without much effort.
  6. Remove the sample from the machine, secure it to the knitting board and steam. Set the density of the knitting fabric that suits you for the product for further knitting.
  7. Set the selected density and start knitting a test sample to calculate the loops and rows.
  8. Secure the knitted sample to the ironing board, steam it and place a frame with centimeter divisions on it. Count the rows and loops and write everything down in a specially kept notebook so that you don’t have to return to calculating loops from this particular yarn and this particular density.

It is strongly recommended to write down all calculations and steps during work, namely: density, number of rows per hem, number of rows for decreases, increases and some other actions during the work process:

  • number, name and manufacturer of yarn;
  • number of threads of yarn;
  • knitting density;
  • quantity and weight of yarn, how much did you use for the product;
  • size or measurements of the product;
  • a drawing or sample pattern for a given product.

All these records will save you in the future from painful questions about how much yarn is needed for this or that product, from memories: what was the density, how many threads were there, and so on and so forth.

Knitting colored patterns

With the help of machine knitting, you can create original striped patterns, choosing the appropriate colors when you make the transition from dark to light shades and vice versa - in this case, you can use all the leftover yarn lying around the house.

You can make separate symmetrical and asymmetrical patterns, it is convenient to knit different animals, especially on children's clothing in two, three or more colors. Any cross pattern, which is previously applied to checkered paper or graph paper, is suitable for the ornament.

Repeating patterns on knitting machines are called jacquard. On single-face knitting machines, when knitting a jacquard manually or using a punched card (depending on the type of machine selected), broaches remain on the wrong side of the fabric, which during wear cling, stretch or tear - it is recommended to glue them with non-woven material or secure them in any other way. On double-font machines, there are no broaches when knitting jacquard.

You can get an original product if you simply make a knitted fabric and decorate it with leather patches or embroider with lurex. It all depends only on your desire and skill, which comes with experience.

Knitting openwork fabric

The openwork fabric on single-frame machines is done by hand, almost like. For this purpose, special deckers are used, which are included with each knitting machine. Imported machines are equipped with a special carriage. The quality and variety of the openwork patterns made cannot be compared with hand knitting!

Processing of knitted products

After removal from the machine, any knitted product is folded in half lengthwise. If it is a single stitch, then it is better to baste with simple threads for fixing, so that there are even edges and carefully steam the entire fabric, do not iron, but rather steam it in order to tidy up the edges of the knitted fabric.

When machine knitting, the edges of the fabric are most deformed, and with single satin stitch, the edges also curl. Shoulder slopes are usually made with partial knitting. It is difficult to knit the neckline of products, especially on double-backed machines - therefore, the neckline is usually cut out according to the pattern of the product, the edge is carefully steamed so that the loops do not unravel, and then it is decorated with separately knitted tape, elastic or openwork tape using quilting on both sides.

On single-face machines, all publications recommend untying the neckline and then putting it on the machine needles again - this is a long process and not very neat. It’s easier to cut out the neck, carefully steam it at a distance of 1 cm from the edge, and then knit the binding from a smaller number of threads or at a high density and pin it on both sides. The choice is yours.

Safety precautions

  1. The table on which the machine is installed must be durable and not create vibrations.
  2. When lighting the knitting work area, use fluorescent lamps.
  3. When working with needles, be careful - the carriage that moves them cannot be removed instantly.
  4. Weights that are hung on a knitted fabric during work tend to fall on your feet - secure them so that this does not happen.
  5. It is not recommended for children and animals to be in the work area to avoid injury.

Any type of handicraft is individual creativity; creating with the help of a machine means keeping up with the times! Master it to always be among the stylish ladies.

Very often, the passion for knitting on a machine occurs spontaneously. You wanted to knit a beautiful knitted dress, and you decided to buy a knitting machine to learn how to knit on a machine and knit this beautiful dress. Or they simply decided to master their mother’s knitting machine, which had been lying in the closet for a long time. The first task is to figure out how to knit the first row on the machine.
The knitting machine instructions are usually lost. And if there is a book like “Knitting on a machine ourselves,” then it is very difficult for an unprepared person to understand the incomprehensible technical language. After reading a few pages, you have a strong desire to buy a ready-made dress, but don’t rush to conclusions.
Of course, you will have to work hard to learn at least the basics of knitting on a machine, but these efforts are compensated by the pleasure of creativity and the opportunity to have unique, original things knitted by machine.

Video of the formation of the initial row on knitting machines. The most common method is to manually wrap the needles with yarn.

It can also be noted that buying a knitting machine is not a cheap pleasure and prices for new knitting machines can reach 100 thousand rubles or more. However, the price for a used knitting machine is also quite high. For such knitting machines as Silver, Brother, 15-50 thousand rubles, this is a very reasonable price. And somewhat lower for Neva and Veritas cars. All this, including the fact that operating the machine requires great knowledge and skills, makes us take the purchase of a knitting machine quite seriously.

In this section of the site, we will try to help you master the first step - preparing yarn for machine knitting. In the future, you can complete knitting courses on a machine or deepen your knowledge on your own from books and the Internet and learn how to knit beautiful and unique knitted clothes.

1. Knitting on a machine begins with preparing the yarn


The first thing you need to do before you start learning how to knit on a machine is to prepare your yarn. If the yarn has knots or is not suitable for this type of machine, then it will seem to you that the knitting machine is broken, and your desire to knit on it will quickly disappear.
Having prepared the yarn, learn how to pick up the first row of fabric and first knit your first scarf from multi-colored horizontal stripes.

For machine knitting, special threads are produced on huge bobbins. They are quite thin and therefore they are folded (3-5) together. This thread is ideal for a knitting machine; the product turns out smooth and even. But you will start your first steps with regular yarn used for hand knitting, which is not very suitable, but is also suitable for machine knitting. The main thing is not to use very thick yarn.
For yarns that are too thick, there are other classes of knitting machines and knitting needles. These knitting machines have not 200, but 100 needles (5 classes of knitting machines in total).

When knitting by machine, you can use a wide range of yarns, including synthetic yarns. However, when using it for the first time for beginners, especially immediately after purchasing the machine, you should first use soft wool yarn of medium thickness.

2. The yarn must first be prepared and rewound


The yarn must first be prepared and rewound. This makes knitting easier and better quality. The machine knits evenly and softly, without jerks or skips, or as knitters say, drops. The pictures show the types of yarn winding.
A - conical type, B - cylindrical type. These skeins are ready and suitable for machine knitting.
C, D, or E - such skeins of yarn need to be rewound.

3. A special device is used to rewind the yarn

To rewind the yarn, a special device is used, without which no knitting machine can do. When rewinding, the yarn is placed in a skein so that the thread is removed from the skein evenly, without effort. Or at least with the same effort.
If you knit from balls on a machine, the tension will “jump” and constantly change. And two knitted sleeves from the same yarn, with the same number of rows and knitting density, will have different lengths and widths. You'll have to unravel and knit them again.
It is important to understand that the thread entering the carriage in jerks will affect the knitting density of the fabric. Therefore, be sure to purchase such a device or buy yarn already rewound into skeins designed specifically for a knitting machine.

A piece of paraffin softens the yarn, making it smooth and elastic. As a result, the machine makes less noise when knitting and the load on the needles and carriage is reduced.
Factory-wound skeins of yarn are sometimes wound too tightly. If possible, it is better to rewind even factory balls.
You need to start using the thread from the inner end of the skein.

5. Avoid using tangled or knotted yarn.

It is better to untangle or cut off the tangled yarn and make a new skein. Knots can cause the carriage to jam and even break the needle, not to mention dropping the loop in the fabric while knitting.

The inner end of the skein thread should be used as the starting end. Make sure that when the yarn comes out of the skein, the skein does not jump. If the yarn does not come off smoothly, but in jerks, then you can try using the other end of the thread (outside the skein).
Skeins, type E, must be rewinded using yarn holding devices or holding it in your hands, as shown in the figure.
Use only suitable yarn that is wound, elastic and not too thick. This will make your first steps easier when learning how to operate a knitting machine. Having learned to knit on a machine with regular yarn, you can move on to using more complex types of yarn, which sometimes require knitting a knitted fabric through a needle.


How a single-flow knitting machine works and works. Detailed instructions for the Neva-5 knitting machine.


It is impossible to learn how to knit on a machine without understanding how it works. You can easily eliminate many of the knitting defects that arise on a knitting machine if you understand the reason for their occurrence.


For beginners learning to knit, it is best to start learning on simple and inexpensive machines, such as Neva-5. When you can fully master the techniques of knitting on such a machine, you can think about learning how to knit on more complex and expensive models of knitting machines.


Sometimes they mistakenly believe that in order to knit a beautiful and complex dress you need the latest model of knitting machine. On any machine, even on the Severyanka, you can knit any patterns and ornaments if you learn how to knit them using manual transfer of loops.


Knitting by machine involves the use of special yarn. Yarn for hand knitting differs from yarn for machine knitting in the thickness of the thread and the way the thread is laid in a skein. To learn how to knit by machine, use thin and elastic yarn rewound on a special device for learning.


You can learn to knit on a machine, but how can you learn to repair a knitting machine? Repairing a knitting machine is a complex task and only an experienced craftsman can do it. But it’s good if you live in Moscow or another large city where there are knitting machine repair specialists. What to do if you can’t find such a master in your city?


A double-font knitting machine is not only a hobby, but a way to earn money. The use of two fonturas, or essentially two separate machines, expands the possibilities of knitting endlessly. The only limitation is your imagination. It will be much easier to learn how to knit on such a knitting machine if you have already learned how to knit on a single-font machine.