Do you dream of building an economical, safe and warm house? Then you should turn to modern technologies, which intelligently combine centuries of experience, ingenuity and sometimes completely unexpected technical solutions. A good example of this is a two- and three-circuit chimney, inside of which there is insulation. Who would have thought a couple of decades ago that something like this was even possible? Moreover, such a chimney really has many valuable advantages; it is only important to do everything according to the stove rules, without deviating from them one iota.
Proper installation of a sandwich chimney begins with the design of the house. Only when making a drawing can you correctly comply with absolutely all the requirements for fire safety standards, and then nothing will have to be redone or even rebuilt. If the house or bathhouse is already ready, then it will be necessary to make all the calculations as accurately as possible. We advise you, if you undertake to make such a chimney yourself, to approach this issue with all responsibility - you are doing it for yourself.
A short introduction regarding the benefits. In private housing construction in Russia, it is sandwich chimneys that are most widespread, although the choice is quite wide. It's all about the design of such a chimney, which promises ease of use and safety.
Before you begin installation, you will see that such a chimney consists of two pipes of different diameters, which are inserted into each other, and the space between them either remains open or is filled with non-combustible insulation. This chimney has a high installation speed, low weight of the entire system, absolutely smooth internal walls, good draft and minimal soot formation.
And now the most important thing: you cannot install a chimney without special training. For this purpose, there is a so-called passport - a document that you receive when purchasing such a unit. Usually there is a schematic diagram and detailed installation instructions.
This video perfectly demonstrates how to properly install a chimney made of sandwich pipes and ensure its reliable operation:
If, in addition, your chimney is a complex device, then at a minimum you will then need to show it to a specialist so that he can make sure of the reliability and practicality of such a design:
How to remove a chimney through an interfloor ceiling
Any chimney is always the most dangerous source of fire, because... The temperature of the flue gases can be prohibitively high. And even the slightest violation of the chimney installation inside a residential building can lead to dangerous consequences.
So, in order to organize the passage of a chimney pipe through wooden structures, it is necessary to make or purchase a ceiling-passage unit. It must exactly match the outer diameter of the pipe. Thanks to this design, the chimney is located at a distance from all nearby surfaces that may come into contact with it:
The easiest way, of course, is to purchase a factory-made chimney assembly and simply cover it on all sides with heat-insulating material. The ideal option is basalt wool, if it is of really high quality and can withstand high temperatures. Therefore, when purchasing one, you must check whether the manufacturer has indicated that the cotton wool is allowed to be used at temperatures above 800 degrees Celsius. Naturally, such cotton wool is more expensive than usual, but there is no point in saving on it, and you probably understand this well.
Here is an option for manufacturing an asbestos-cement box for an interfloor unit:
According to current SNiPs, when a chimney passes through a wooden covering, it is necessary to maintain a distance of at least 38 cm from the internal sandwich pipe to the wooden structure. Moreover, the box should not be empty, but filled with special material.
Yes, of course, sometimes the distance between the rafters does not allow you to adhere to this parameter, and then you have to increase the opening with the help of additional bars. And it is recommended to protect the logs of a wooden structure, as well as rafters with sheathing, using a galvanized sheet or asbestos sheet at least 5 mm thick. The good thing about a galvanized sheet is that it not only prevents the spread of fire, but also dissipates heat evenly, preventing it from concentrating in spots. It also screens and reflects hard thermal radiation that comes from the pipe.
This is the main advantage of the sandwich, because if you install a regular single-pipe steel chimney, this distance should be at least 50 centimeters.
The following metal fasteners will help support the pipe in a vertical position:
How to secure the joint between a chimney and a wooden ceiling?
And now we will touch on the most important point, knowledge of which will help you avoid a completely unexpected fire.
So, the higher the temperature of the flue gases, the more the sandwich pipe heats up, and all the structural elements around it are subject to temperature effects. Therefore, it is extremely important to ensure that the passage elements are reliably protected. And don't think that everything is so simple.
For example, an ordinary tree without special protection becomes charred at a temperature of 200 degrees. And dried wood can even catch fire at a temperature of 270 degrees Celsius! If you expose wooden joists to temperatures of 170 degrees for more than a day, they can also catch fire. Unfortunately, it is this point, which many do not know, that often causes fires, even if a high-quality sandwich pipe is installed.
Therefore, it is advisable to carry out the ceiling with good insulation of sufficient thickness so that the heat from the pipe to the wall and wooden elements is practically absent. In addition, the more the wooden floor itself accumulates heat from the sandwich, the worse the wood will perceive this heat each time. Of course, in an hour or two, the usual insulation in a polyurethane foam unit does not have time to warm up to a critical temperature, but the problem is that, in the language of stove makers, after heating, heat accumulates in the wood and insulating materials and gradually changes their chemical composition.
For example, with prolonged and constant cumulative heating, wood can ignite at a temperature of 130 degrees! But on the outside of the sandwich it often reaches up to 200 degrees (from 75 to 200, as laboratory tests have shown). So such a sad thing happens, when the stove or fireplace was successfully lit for many years, everything was wonderful, and then one day the owners fired it just 2 hours longer and hotter than usual (to warm up on a particularly cold winter evening or to heat the steam room for guests) , and the temperature in the sandwich exceeded the critical temperature, and the same temperature of 130 degrees Celsius reached the floor wood that had already dried over the years.
You also need to be careful if mineral wool is used as the thermal insulation material for polyurethane foam. Over time, from exposure to high temperatures, it also changes its properties and even becomes more thermally conductive! This does not mean that the wool will one day risk catching fire, but the outer contour of the chimney in this place will already be much hotter than you originally expected. But this is a factor that was not initially taken into account!
This is why experienced stove makers advise not to make the ceiling insulation too dense (the denser it is, the more heat it accumulates). Moreover, the natural possibility of blowing air through the pipe is vital:
They also often make a dangerous mistake by poorly calculating the distance between the rafters for the passage of the pipe, which does not correspond to the norm. Please also note that an empty ceiling assembly, in which no insulation has been installed at all, is also not the best option.
Also keep in mind that the material that envelops the inner arc of the chimney tends to settle slightly over time. As a result, the junction of the two walls is sometimes unprotected. And, if this joint burns out (and it is especially dangerous if it is also located inside the ceiling), then the fire that arises in such voids will be almost impossible to extinguish. Therefore, once every year or two, all passage units of the sandwich chimney should be carefully inspected.
Here's how to properly organize the passage of a sandwich chimney through the ceiling in its simplest form:
If you install a water tank on the chimney, then the entire installation should look like this:
Please note how the sandwich pipe should be passed through the ceiling:
And finally, if it is not possible to place a stove or fireplace directly under the sandwich pipe outlet, you will need a special tee:
Organization of a node through the walls of a house or bathhouse
Today, sandwich chimney installation is practiced in two main ways: inside the house or outside. And indeed, more and more often you can notice that chimneys are installed directly through the wall to the street, and from the first floor - and from there they are directed vertically upward. And this makes sense: this way the chimney cools much faster and does not pass through fire-unsafe ceilings and roofs. On the other hand, a chimney that rises through the attic usually serves as an additional heating element. But the risk of fire here, of course, will be higher.
You will be surprised, but in fact the outer casing of a stainless steel sandwich is not far from the temperature of a single-circuit chimney. Indeed, in fact, initially such a chimney was designed to improve draft, and therefore the gases that leave the stove usually have a temperature of 800 degrees Celsius, and the outer casing can heat up to 300 degrees! And this is far from a fireproof surface.
A modern sandwich chimney is exhausted both through the roof and directly through the walls of a residential building:
You can see the node in more detail in this illustration:
So, the following step-by-step instructions will help you organize the correct angle of passage of the sandwich chimney through the walls:
- Step 1. Before starting work, be sure to calculate the length of the horizontal sandwich pipe that will need to be passed through the wall. And also take into account the tee that you will install. Calculate the roof slope so that the chimney does not end up too close to the eaves.
- Step 2. Fill the box that you insert into the wall with non-flammable basalt material.
- Step 3. Close the pass-through assembly with a lid so that the basalt cardboard gasket remains visible.
- Step 4. Cover the edges of such an assembly cover with a platband from the components of the exterior decoration of the house, for example, siding.
- Step 5. Treat the edges of the box with clear roofing sealant.
- Step 6. At the exit of the chimney from the wall, install an inspection.
- Step 7. Secure the chimney using special wall brackets, one for every 1.5-2 meters.
- Step 8. So, after you have installed the pipe, check its verticality using a level.
- Step 9. Be sure to make sure that the seam faces the house.
After all, the most important rule is this: the chimney passage through the wall of a house or bathhouse must be protected as much as possible from fire. Here is a good example of such a node:
In order for the horizontal element of the sandwich chimney to be installed securely, it must be properly supported with a metal corner:
Special structures will also help to secure such a chimney to the wall in a strictly vertical position:
Believe me, the work is not over at this stage, especially if your chimney has a complex design (which we strongly do not recommend):
Device for passing a sandwich chimney through the eaves and roof
The passage of a sandwich chimney through the roof must be done according to the same principles as the passage through the ceiling. In this case, the distance to wooden structures should be sufficient. And at this stage it is important to avoid making a dangerous mistake.
Yes, the chimney does cool down when passing through the roof, especially since the space around it is ventilated, and therefore many believe that it is possible to reduce the distance to the protected rafters. Indeed, for a cold roof this is really a suitable option, but for an insulated roof it is necessary to adhere to the same distances and standards as for interfloor ceilings.
For the exit through the roof of a sandwich chimney, a special roofing cut is used. You can purchase absolutely any one, adapted to the angle of your roof and its slopes. And you need to install the roof trim from above, placing its edge under the roof ridge.
This is what the passage of a sandwich chimney through the eaves should look like:
To bring a sandwich chimney onto the roof, you will need to make a hole of sufficient width in the roofing:
Moreover, at the stage of removing the sandwich chimney through the roof, you cannot do without roofing silicone sealant, which is designed for 1500 degrees of temperature exposure.
When the chimney pipe passes through the sloping slopes of the roof, the hole itself and its insulation will already be slightly larger in area:
Particular care must be taken to route the sandwich chimney pipe through the roof if the roofing material itself is flammable. Don't forget that the metal itself, of course. It won’t catch fire, but roofing paint will. To do everything correctly, follow these steps:
- Step 1. Start cutting the corrugated sheet away from the future location of the pipe. It is about 30 centimeters above and above and 10 cm below and on the sides.
- Step 2. Make a roofing groove for the pipe from galvanized steel and install it starting from the bottom. The cutting should extend onto the corrugated sheet at least 15 cm.
- Step 3. Remove the top sheet of corrugated sheeting and lay the top part of the roofing trim, then cover its side parts by 20 cm.
- Step 4. Install the removed corrugated sheet and secure it.
- Step 5: Now close and seal the seams to prevent further leaks.
- Step 6. Insulate the pipe with non-flammable material and fix it with annealed wire.
- Step 7. Make a chimney hood from galvanized steel.
- Step 8. Now, seal again with built-up roofing materials, heated or self-adhesive.
By the way, if you are working with a metal roofing, then it is possible to secure the chimney in such a place using bent pieces of the roof itself:
In general terms, assembling a chimney outside the walls of the house is practically no different from installing it inside:
All these rules are invented for a reason, because they are based on practical research and fire statistics. Therefore, if you do not want your home to become a sad example for others, follow all the instructions to the last, and even more: always try to be on the safe side, at least a little, because life is full of unpredictable situations. Study carefully all the subtleties and nuances of the installation process of modern chimneys - and sleep well!
There are two main connection devices in the chimney: “smoke” and “condensate”. How are they different and what assembly scheme should be used to avoid problems in the future?
Assembly "by smoke"
According to this scheme, each subsequent section of the pipe is placed on top of the bottom. With this option, there is no resistance to combustion products as they move. The scheme is used in furnaces with high flue gas temperatures, where moisture formation does not occur.Assembly "by condensate"
This type of chimney device is used in stoves with a long-burning function. A chimney is a structure in which the upper part of the chimney pipe is inserted into the lower one. If drops of water form, they flow freely along the (condensate drain) walls into the sump. After which they enter the furnace and burn, or end up in the condensate collector.How to install pipes and assemble a chimney
Condensation and its effects
The formation of moisture on the surface of the chimney is a rather harmful phenomenon. This is what helps dissolve soot. As a result of the interaction, acids are produced that destroy the surface of the pipe. It is worth noting that soot can be present in the chimney in large quantities, especially if the chimney is not cleaned in a timely manner.
Liquid appears when fuel is burned. It usually contains hydrocarbons, sulfur, oxygen and potassium substances. During the combustion process, when oxygen combines with hydrogen, water vapor is actively synthesized, which in itself is a corrosion agent. In addition, a lot of water is contained in the fuel itself. For example, anthracite gives 3% of smoke steam, firewood - 30%.
When is it correct to assemble a chimney “by condensate”, and when “by smoke”?
Mostly moisture accumulates at the joints of the chimney pipe. Here it is most dangerous because it violates the tightness and integrity of the system. Therefore, the assembly of chimneys “using condensate” is carried out in most cases. Assembly “by smoke” is used in sauna stoves. But recently, the “smoke” assembly option has been used less and less.It is especially important to correctly assemble the “condensate” for:
- Chimneys of gas boilers. They have abundant formation of water precipitation due to low temperature and high saturation of flue gases with steam.
- Stoves and fireplaces with a chimney installed outside the house. In such a chimney in winter, flue gases cool faster and more strongly compared to a chimney that goes inside the house. Therefore, more condensation forms.
- Any firebox with smoldering combustion.
The sandwich chimney owes its name to the design features of the pipe - it consists of internal and external channels, as well as a layer of thermal insulation running between them. And if you're interestedDIY sandwich chimney installation, then first familiarize yourself with the design features.
Chimneys from different manufacturers today may differ only in the technical parameters of the channels and the material used for thermal insulation.
The vast majority of sandwich class pipes are equipped with an external channel made of stainless steel, while the internal channel is made of more expensive metals - for example, brass and copper. In addition, chimneys differ in the thickness of the insulating layer and the diameter of the pipes. Another criterion may be the temperature regime at which operation should take place.
In this case, mineral wool is used as insulation, which in almost all respects is identical to asbestos fiber.
Important! The thickness of the mineral wool layer usually ranges between 3 and 6 cm, which ensures resistance to temperature changes and aggressive influences of the external environment.
It is believed that sandwich chimneys can last 15 years, but practice shows that this period is usually much longer. In addition to the pipe itself, the kit includes:
- protective fungus;
- knees with an angle of 90ᵒ and 45ᵒ;
- weather vane (it will prevent reverse draft and protect the structure from the wind);
- tee;
- inspection to check the condition of the chimney;
- cone for free flow.
Important! The mushroom and weather vane are not used in case of gas heating!
Advantages and disadvantages of a sandwich chimney in
The undoubted advantages of chimneys of this type include the following properties:
- light weight;
- compatibility with all heating devices;
- the possibility of condensation is minimized;
- aesthetics;
- compactness;
- versatility, which manifests itself in the possibility of both indoor and outdoor installation;
- slight contamination with soot during operation;
- corrosion resistance;
- mobility - the chimney does not have to be straight;
- fire safety;
- no need to install an additional base.
Regarding the disadvantages, the sandwich chimney has few of them, more precisely, only two - the possibility of loss of tightness and high cost. If everything is clear with the cost, then the loss of tightness requires some explanation. The fact is that it occurs only after a long operational period, because all sections of the pipe permanently expand and contract under the influence of temperature changes.
Due to the lightness of the sandwich chimney, it can be installed without preliminary installation of the base, which is considered another advantage of the design.
Sandwich chimney dimensions
What will be required at work
In addition to standard components, take care of the necessary materials and tools:
- wall brackets;
- fasteners;
- clamps;
- couplings;
- stub;
- marker;
- fireproof sealant.
Now - directly to the installation.
First stage. Preparatory work
In this case, preparation consists of protecting the places where the chimney will pass through the ceiling. In such areas, install a special element called a pass-through tube. Below is the installation procedure.
Step one. Prepare the pipe. Place a layer of thermal insulation along its walls.
Step two. Then insulate the inner surface. Mark the installation location in the ceiling and make an opening of the required size.
Step three. Install another layer of insulation in the place where the pipe will come into contact with the ceiling, and then install the pipe.
Step four. Do not forget about a small gap between the pipe and the chimney for additional heat removal.
Important! You cannot join chimney parts where it will pass through the ceiling.
Second phase. Cutting on the roof
Step one. Measure the outer and inner sides taking into account the angle of the roof. Remember that when installing a sandwich chimney you should be extremely careful, because work on the roof will take some time. Therefore, start installation only in clear and sunny weather.
Step two. Cut a corresponding hole for the pipe, preferably from the inside.
Step three. Attach a sheet of galvanized steel to the roof, in which a hole has been previously made for the chimney. We remind you once again that joints between structural elements on cutting lines should not be allowed.
Third stage. Chimney assembly procedure
Let's look at the installation technology using the example of the most popular heating system - double-circuit.
Important! Carry out installation from the bottom up, that is, from the heat generator to the pipe outlet.
Step one. To begin, connect the sandwich pipe to the corresponding hole in the heating device (in most cases, the boiler), then secure it with a plug. Remember that a small section of the pipe near the boiler itself should be left uninsulated due to the too high temperature. No matter how high the quality of the pipe you use in constructing the chimney, the section near the boiler will exhaust its resources in a short time, or, in other words, will burn out.
Step two. Insert each new inner tube into the previous one. Then put on the outer channel. Pay special attention to ensuring that the pipes are joined to the previous ones on the narrower side, otherwise during operation the condensate that inevitably forms will flow into the seams and not flow freely downwards.
Step three. After installing all chimney segments, secure the tees with pre-prepared brackets. Then seal all connections with iron clamps and additionally secure with nuts.
Step four. If you wish, you can install special sealed couplings. They are often recommended to be installed if the system constantly operates at high pressure.
Step five. Upon completion of installation, peel off the protective film from the parts and apply fire-resistant sealant to them. This sealant must retain all its properties even at a temperature of 100ᵒC.
Fourth stage. Features of installing sandwich class chimneys
When installing a chimney, you must take into account a number of features.
- Most of the chimney should be indoors. This will reduce heat loss during heating.
- If horizontal sections are allowed in the structure, then the length of each of them should be a maximum of one meter.
- The chimney should not come into contact with other communications (especially gas) - these are basic safety measures.
- The clamps used for fastening must be of a special shape.
- The pipe must be fixed with brackets with a minimum step of 2.2 meters.
- No mistakes should be made during installation. The most common of them are incorrect calculations, incorrect installation of the ventilation system, and poor-quality thermal insulation.
- Finally, do not forget about installing a special inspection with a door designed to clean the chimney from combustion products.
About the cost of installation work
Of course, installing a chimney yourself allows you to save some money, however, it is still better to entrust this work to professionals. Despite the fact that the installation procedure seems simple at first glance, there are a number of nuances (we have mentioned some of them) that only experienced specialists know about. The approximate cost of assembling and installing a sandwich chimney today is 1,700 rubles per meter. Yes, the amount is rather large, but in return you will get the most important thing - quality.
Of course, this figure may vary depending on the number of floors and installation method. There are two such ways.
- When installing “by smoke”, tees are used to drain condensate.
- Installation “by condensate” does not involve the use of additional elements.
In a word, installing a chimney is an important procedure, so if you decide to do it yourself, you will have to treat the issue with full responsibility and follow safety rules.
About the features of operation
When operating a sandwich chimney, soot will still accumulate in its pipes, albeit in small quantities. This will eventually reduce the useful cross-sectional area, which in turn can lead to ignition. Therefore, clean the chimney at least twice during the heating season, using the inspection mentioned above. There is another way (the so-called glass), which involves dismantling the entire lower part of the structure.
Video - Installation of a sandwich chimney
A chimney is an essential part of the heating system of a private home. It ensures the proper functioning of the stove or boiler and organizes the removal of harmful combustion products outside the home.
We will try to figure out how to install a chimney with our own hands so that heating communications are safe for both people and the home.
The installation of heating devices is subject to the requirements set out in the regulatory documentation.
Installation of devices is regulated by the provisions SNiP 2.04.05–91 And DBN V.2.5-20-2001. Also, before drawing up a project, it is advisable to study materials about heating systems ( SNiP 41-01-2003), about heat generation devices ( NPB 252–98), on technical conditions for the operation of thermal devices ( GOST 9817–95), on the rules and regulations for the operation of smoke ducts (VDPO).
The design of the chimney and installation features must fully comply with the requirements specified in SNiP, otherwise you will not receive a construction inspection certificate, which is issued after commissioning
Some of the requirements are addressed specifically to the installation of chimneys. The design of the structure can be anything, but the material must be non-flammable.
The materials used for the construction of chimneys can be:
- steel;
- ceramics;
- brick.
Without exception, all structures are prefabricated, and the installation itself is fragmentary, since the chimney passes through several rooms (for example, a room and an attic).
In order for a structure to meet fire safety requirements, its parameters must be correctly calculated, and all component parts must be sized accordingly. When installing factory equipment, you must follow all the recommendations set out in the instructions, including the assembly procedure and methods for installing parts.
Image gallery
Transitions through floors and roofs require the use of fire-retardant thermal insulation materials, such as mineral wool, and the installation of protective blocks, which can be called a “sandwich within a sandwich”
Construction of a chimney for a gas boiler, stove or fireplace is a responsible task that requires special permission, design and professional skills. If you are not confident in your abilities, entrust the installation of the pipe to specialists who will carry out the work taking into account all norms and requirements.
If you have already built a chimney yourself or are an expert in this matter, please share your experience and knowledge with our readers. Tell us about the nuances of building a chimney in the block below.
Many future owners of country houses would like to have their own cozy home. Installation of a stove or fireplace necessarily requires the installation of a chimney pipe. The installation of a chimney is carried out at the time of construction and erection of walls, however, there are cases that customers have already built a house, but forgot to think about such things in advance. Therefore, today’s article will be useful not only to those who are still at the construction stage, but also to those who have a desire to build a small fireplace after the construction of the house. We will try to answer in detail in this article how to do this and what to pay attention to.
Preparatory work
Before proceeding with installation, it is necessary to clarify several basic factors. When selecting a channel, you need to take into account the height of the building, the diameter of the future channel, and others. Give special attention to the installation site and location of the heating equipment. Installation of a sandwich chimney, like any other, can be done in two main ways:
- Internal.
- External.
For example, when installed internally, the installation of a sandwich chimney is carried out directly in the heated room, and in this case additional sealing is not required. But, there is a nuance, if the attic space is not heated, in this case, it would be useful to additionally insulate the pipe during installation and carry out a seal to prevent exhaust gases from entering the rooms with the ensuing consequences.
In addition, at the initial stage, think about what to do with those materials, walls, next to which, in contact, the chimney will pass. Surfaces must be treated with special fire retardants.
As for external systems, the assembly of the external sandwich chimney must be carried out taking into account the mandatory insulation. These types are much safer, since they immediately remove the pipe to the outside during installation, reducing the likelihood of exhaust gases entering the premises.
Which type and shape should I choose? Here it is worth giving preference not only to aesthetic indicators, but also to functional ones. Keep in mind that it is easy to fix or fasten a square chimney, it is quite easy to use and does not require special skills during installation. But the main disadvantage of such a system is the accumulation of condensation and other unnecessary dirt and dust inside.
Round elements in this part are much preferable, given their shape; they retain much less not only a variety of debris that can get in from gusts of wind, but also form less condensation, naturally taking into account proper insulation. The only thing is that such systems are difficult to install and you will need skill.
In addition, do not forget to prepare the necessary tools for installation in advance. So, the tools needed to install a chimney:
- Drill, grinder.
- Jigsaw, screwdriver.
- Hammer.
- Screwdrivers.
- Protective ammunition.
- Spatula and chisel.
Main stages of installation
To install a chimney with your own hands, you need step-by-step instructions. Below is a sample work plan that is recommended to be followed. So:
- First of all, calculate the channel and adjust the dimensions “on the ground”.
- We install the formed stainless steel chimney pipe with our own hands.
- We connect the system, that is, we install the source (boiler, stove) and capacitor. It is also recommended at the time of installing a stainless steel chimney or installing a chimney made of sandwich panels, installing a condensate receiver and drain.
- Checking the system and installing the “umbrella” (head).
The peculiarity of fastening for chimneys involves the use of fastening elements, regardless of the type of system, every meter and a half. Taking into account the design of the chimney, carry out insulation and sealing work. When thermally insulating especially iron pipes, it is recommended to use a method that has been proven for centuries, namely clay. All modern methods cannot guarantee one hundred percent protection, so pay attention to this.
Calculation of chimney components
Installation of a chimney must take place after mandatory calculation of all elements, taking into account some rules that are fundamental. So, the necessary list of rules:
- If a flat roof of the building is provided, the ridge of the pipe should extend no less than 0.5 meters.
- For pitched roofs, the exit of the “umbrella” must be at least 1.5 meters and at the same level as the top ridge.
- When arranging a roof made of flammable elements, any pipe must rise at least 1.5 meters.
- In places of joints and passages through ceilings, it is necessary to perform high-quality thermal insulation.
Taking into account these simple rules, parts for the chimney can be purchased back to back, without overpayments. Pay special attention to fire-hazardous roofs; do not skimp on sealing and thermal insulation.
What are sandwich pipes?
What is a sandwich pipe? Sandwich chimney pipes are essentially a conventional design, when one steel pipe is inserted into another. And the formed gap is “filled” with a special heat-protective material. The thermal protection layer carries the entire load during boiler operation, so the outside temperature does not allow condensation to form. And regarding fire safety, this is very good. There is no direct contact with ceilings and walls, which makes it preferable to install such pipes in wooden houses. Otherwise, the stainless steel sandwich is completely identical, with a classic single-layer channel.
Sandwich pipe assembly
- Smoke installation.
- Condensate installation.
The first option is not entirely correct from the point of view of organizing high-quality smoke removal, since the formed condensate will fall into the cracks and gaps of the middle layer. This happens due to a loose fit. It is very difficult to notice this, especially during installation, but over time the problem will manifest itself. And when frost sets in, water that gets into the heat insulator will simply “break” the chimney.
Two installation principles: “smoke” and “condensate”
The second type of assembly is more preferable and correct. With this solution, all moisture flows freely through the sealed joint and enters the condensate receiver. Things will be the same externally; drops will flow down the seams without getting into the heat insulator.
Do-it-yourself sandwich chimney installation
The installation of a stainless steel sandwich chimney itself will not cause any difficulties. When installing a chimney with your own hands, remember an important rule: this should only be done from the bottom up. That is, we first work with the boiler, gradually moving towards the roof, so we, as it were, put the upper pipe on the lower one. When installing a chimney or sandwich panels with your own hands, remember that one of the edges will be narrowed. It is this edge that needs to be inserted into the upper pipe so that the seam is made from top to bottom, but not vice versa. By the way, you can also use a tee during installation; it will get rid of accumulating soot and allow condensate to drain into a special receiver.
In places where there is a passage through walls and ceilings, places for brackets for a chimney made of sandwich pipes must be reinforced. To ensure that the transition area is held securely and is not permeable, you can cut a larger hole, cover it with a slab of plywood, screw an asbestos sheet on top, and “galvanize” on top of it. After this, we cut a hole of the required diameter and carry out installation.
The most critical moment in installing a chimney is the passage through the roof. To do this, you will need to attach a galvanized sheet from the inside through which to pass the pipe. When it is completely removed, screw on the “galvanization”. You can bring the edges under the roof, further finishing it.
Don’t forget, if the roof is flammable, you need to install an additional deflector to prevent sparks from hitting the roof.
When the pipe has been completely removed, work can be done to strengthen the joints. This can be done using ordinary clamps. An example of fastening joints: we make connections between each other with a crimp clamp on one side, and joints with other elements, such as tees or adapters, on both sides with the same clamps.
The final stage, after the entire installation is completed, it is necessary to remove the protective film (in places where it passes through the ceilings in advance). Afterwards, it is recommended to seal the seams using sealant; take into account the heat resistance (at least 1000) when purchasing.
There are also special rules for applying sealant:
- For internal channels - on the outside of the upper internal part.
- For external channels - by appearance.
- In transitions - by appearance.
The main advantages of sandwich panel chimneys
Stainless steel chimneys have the following qualities:
- Easy to install.
- Compact.
- Universal. There are exits both upstairs and through the wall.
- Multi-layered. Best protection against condensation.
- Wear-resistant and not susceptible to aggressive influences. Resistant to even the most aggressive chemicals.
- The most fireproof of all those currently on the market.