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A drainage pump for owners of personal plots is a sought-after and indispensable piece of equipment when the snow melts or there is a period of heavy rains. The fact is that excess water can cause irreparable damage to buildings, flooding basements and washing away the foundations of buildings. During operation, it is sometimes necessary to repair the drainage pump. The photo shows what such a device looks like.
The drainage pump allows you to pump out liquid from a pool, pit, reservoir, well, container. Consumers of this product often wonder whether it is possible to fix the malfunction with your own hands.
Types of drainage pumps
Such units for pumping out dirty water and wastewater can be surface or submersible according to their purpose (read: "").Surface drainage pumps. They are used for pumping liquid from small-volume containers. The device is placed on the ground near the edge of the drain tank (read also: " "). To pump out dirty water, the hose is lowered to the bottom of the container. If the pump operates in automatic mode, the float mechanism must be connected to the switch lever, which will allow you to monitor the liquid level in the pit or tank. When the drains rise above a certain level, a float floats up with them and the unit turns on (more details: " ").
The drainage pump has two pipes:
- inlet - for collecting dirty water from the waste tank;
- output - necessary to drain the liquid outside the container.
The advantage of surface pumps is their mobility - they can be easily and quickly moved to another location.
Submersible drainage pumps. This type of device is used when it is necessary to clean deep tanks and in case of large-scale flooding to pump out excess water. The unit is lowered into a well or container, from where the liquid needs to be pumped out (more details: " "). Suction is produced through holes in the bottom of the device, and not through inlet hoses. To prevent large impurities from entering the impeller of the device, the pump has strainers.
The use of float switches allows you to automatically turn on the device when there is a large number of drains. The possibility of a short circuit when the device is immersed in liquid can be avoided due to the presence of high-quality electrical insulation.
If it is necessary to pump out or pump liquid with large fractions, experts recommend using fecal (sewage) pumps that have special cutting and chopping elements. They are capable of pumping and processing wastewater containing large-sized waste. The most optimal solution would be to purchase an automatic sewerage station, which will allow the operation of bathrooms that do not have a connection to centralized wastewater systems.
Drainage pump device
Elements of drainage pumping equipment are:- engine - when the device is small, it is located in an internal plastic case;
- capacitor motor with thermal protection switch to prevent overload (in more expensive advanced models);
- internal and external housing - in modern expensive units they are made of high-strength polypropylene reinforced with fiberglass. The housings are also made of plastic or stainless steel. When the device is operating, the space between the housings is filled with water, so the unit does not overheat;
- the working shaft is made of stainless steel;
- The impeller or impeller is located in the outer casing on the shaft. The configuration of this part determines the size of the inclusion particles that the pump can process;
- float switch - used to turn the device off and on automatically. This device controls the liquid level in a well or container, protecting the mechanism from “dry running”. It is responsible for the timely activation of the device.
The operation of drainage pumps when transporting wastewater at elevated temperatures is limited to a temporary period - information about this is contained in the operating instructions of the manufacturer. The fact is that the cooling of the unit’s engine occurs due to the transfer of heat into the pumped liquid.
Criteria for selecting drainage pumps
There are several rules that should be followed when choosing a device:It is necessary to take into account the type of pumped liquid - here they pay attention to the size of the fractions in dirty water. You need to carefully familiarize yourself with the main parameters of the drainage unit in order to choose a specific model.
This is, first of all:
- pressure – this value for equipment of average productivity is 7-10 meters. In some models it reaches more than 30 meters. Data regarding pump pressure depend on the distance over which the liquid is planned to be supplied;
- productivity - the choice depends on the volume of the tank. For example, for a capacity of 40 “cubes”, a device with 10 cubic meters of productivity per hour is sufficient. For industrial purposes, more efficient pumps are needed - about 100 m³ / hour or more;
- immersion depth of the device - the maximum value reaches 5 -15 meters, and the minimum - 0.3 - 0.9 meters.
In addition, you need to know what factors determine the lifespan of the pump:
- the quality of the materials from which the equipment elements are made;
- the temperature of the pumped dirty water should not be more than +50°C;
- drain passage diameter;
- presence of protection against possible overheating. Typically, a thermal relay is built into the pump (it will turn off the power if the liquid temperature becomes critical) and a float switch.
Repair of drainage pumps
When the drainage pump breaks down, the faults are eliminated after the cause of the breakdown is determined.Most often this happens:
- improper operation when the operating parameters of the device are exceeded;
- long period between maintenance;
- long-term operation of the device in “dry” mode;
- very large solid inclusions in the pumped liquid (then the drain pump does not pump water);
- poorly installed pump;
- manufacturing defect.
When the device is inexpensive, the drainage pump is disassembled and repaired with your own hands, provided you have the skills to handle such units.
If the first signs of improper functioning of the submersible pump appear, you need to check the functionality and condition of individual elements:
- the piston must be elastic and cannot be subject to mechanical damage;
- it is necessary that the air blown in at the point of fluid intake passes freely on both sides;
- the optimal distance between the piston and the electromagnet coils is from 0.4 to 0.5 centimeters. If the gap is larger, the coils break, and when it is smaller, the motor overheats;
- the gap between the valve covering the inlet holes and the body should be from 0.7 to 0.8 millimeters.
Often the cause of poor equipment performance is not the breakdown of individual elements, but a voltage drop in the electrical network. Before disassembling the drainage pump and starting to repair it yourself, you need to check the voltage in the network, which should be 200-240V. If this parameter is normal, you can begin disassembling by applying special notches on the mating areas of the device.
If the drainage pump, which is in working condition, does not pump, then the possible reasons are as follows:
- air got into the water intake part;
- insufficient immersion depth of the unit;
- the water intake element is not covered with liquid.
Only if malfunctions in the operation of the drainage pump are corrected in a timely manner will its operation be ensured for a long time without serious problems.
A drainage pump in a suburban area is a kind of lifesaver in case of unforeseen situations. In design, it resembles equipment for supplying drinking water, but has the ability to move contaminated media with large inclusions.
But like any other equipment, equipment can fail. Let's try to understand the weaknesses of the unit and find out whether it is possible to repair the drainage pump with your own hands if necessary.
The ability to pump water with fine gravel, large amounts of sand, and organic residues is a very useful quality when you need to pump out water after flooding or drain a pond. Drainage units are designed to work in such conditions, but exceeding the load often leads to breakdowns.
It is better to get acquainted with the internal contents of the device immediately after purchase, in order to understand which parts may fail if clogged or broken. To do this, it is not necessary to open the case or disassemble it - just study the diagram that comes with the instructions for connecting and servicing the device.
The suction hole of the pump unit can have a different location: for submersible models it is located at the bottom and is equipped with a filter mesh
Devices for private use in summer cottages are not very powerful or have complex features. Unlike heavy industrial equipment, they are compact, relatively light (average weight - 3-7 kg), and consist of steel or plastic parts, although cast iron is still used for the production of industrial models and some household ones.
The main components of the submersible mechanism are a pump unit that pumps water and an electric motor that rotates a shaft with blades. The engine is located inside a durable housing, which is made of stainless steel or reinforced polypropylene and is double. Water circulates between the outer and inner walls, preventing cooling.
Image gallery
Modern models are equipped with thermal protection that is triggered when the device is overloaded. An impeller is attached to the axial shaft - a screw device that supplies liquid inside the housing. When the unit is turned on, the impeller begins to rotate, taking in water from outside and pushing it along the walls to the outlet. The first portion of water is replaced by the next one - and so on until the mechanism stops.
Regulates the frequency of operation. It monitors the liquid level in a tank or natural body of water, and if it drops sharply, it turns off the device automatically.
A diagram explaining the principle of operation of a float switch: the float, due to the action of physical laws, rests on the surface of the water, which sinks with it during the pumping process. When the lower limit is reached, the float gives a command to turn off the unit
Malfunctions and ways to eliminate them
There are a number of opportunities to repair the equipment yourself, provided that the broken part can be replaced with a new one or a simple technical procedure can be performed (for example, cleaning). To do this, you will have to disassemble the case, perform diagnostics, identify the problem and select an identical part.
If you rarely use drainage equipment or plan to use it only in the event of an accident (flooding), then do not rush to buy an expensive pump - a cheap model is much easier to replace. Pumps Caliber – from 2500 rubles
Available actions include replacing the capacitor, impeller or float, repairing the electrical cable, fixing the shock absorber, and removing large pieces of clay and sand stuck inside the housing.
If the cast iron body is cracked, the valve has failed, or the winding has stopped functioning, you should contact a service center or think about it. Inexpensive drainage devices made in China are inexpensive, so it is not advisable to order serious professional repairs.
Failure #1 – the power cord is faulty
The flexible element - the cable - is always at risk, since due to regular twists and kinks (which often happens during transportation and reinstallation of equipment), the wires under the layer of plastic or rubberized protection are torn, resulting in the power supply to the pump being cut off.
It is necessary to find the break point and make a connection. This operation is easy to carry out if the break occurs near the plug - you just need to clean and connect the wires, finally carefully insulating the work area.
When removing the cable, try to mark and remember the attachment points of each wire (they are of different colors) so that during reinstallation you do not confuse “phase”, “ground”, “zero”
A cable break in the area connected to the pump requires more time to repair. First you need to remove the equipment from the water, wipe and dry it, then disassemble it to get to the internal connection unit. Get ready for the fact that instead of hexagonal holes you will encounter triple ones, which will make it difficult to select a screwdriver.
The cover should be removed carefully, without jerking or effort. By unscrewing the bolts holding the tension element, you can examine the cable and determine the area of \u200b\u200bthe break. We remove the worn piece, mount the cable in its original place, attach the tension element, and fix the bolts.
Failure #2 – water supply stopped
The engine is running properly, but the fluid has either stopped flowing altogether or is flowing in small uneven jerks.
There may be several reasons for this strange phenomenon:
- Part of the supply line is clogged. This is an outlet pipe or supply pipe. A kind of blockage arose from tufts of algae and pieces of clay. It is necessary to disconnect the pipes and clean them. It is possible that the pipe length is longer than recommended by the manufacturer, and therefore there is not enough pressure to deliver the required power.
- The impeller is worn out. Blades are bent or damaged. You should disassemble the device, replace parts, first visually (as far as possible) determining the cause of the malfunction.
- The fluid is oversaturated with dirt and debris. Therefore, the water has a thick consistency and is difficult to pump. We solve the problem by raising the suction hole a certain distance from the bottom, where sediment accumulates.
- Engine power has noticeably decreased. What can be determined even by sound. There may be problems with the electrical supply, failure of bearings, or depressurization of the oil compartment. It is necessary to disassemble the case to determine the cause of the breakdown and replace worn parts.
The most common problem is a clogged filter. To clean the screen and suction port, you can try running some clean water through the pump. If this procedure does not help, you should disassemble the housing and clean all chambers, removing pebbles, algae and wood chips.
When disassembling, you may encounter an unpleasant “surprise” - the fusion of rusted mounting bolts with the body. The bolt heads must be carefully cut off with a grinder, and new screws must be installed in place of the old fasteners.
When disassembling the unit, be sure to use the manufacturer's diagrams or instructions. They will help you remove parts sequentially and quickly find the bolt attachment points. In some cases, worn fasteners or loose nuts cause parts to become misaligned, which also affects the performance of the machine.
Failure #3 – the engine does not start
You connect the power supply - but the pump does not work, does not make noise and does not pump water. Be prepared to have to examine all the equipment.
Here are the most common causes of engine failure:
- Power supply interruption due to broken wires. We check the cable by touch and find the break point. If the emergency area is in the area of connection to the pump, we act as described above.
- The stator winding has failed. Happens due to dry operation. If you cannot replace it yourself, contact a specialist.
- Bearing jammed. We check the part for suitability and clean or replace it based on the diagnostic results.
- The suction device is clogged with debris. We clean the blades and grille, check the integrity of the operating elements and the mesh.
- The float switch is broken. To check its functionality, you need to close the relay. The problem may be in the wire connecting the float to the pump.
If the capacitor fails, replacement is required. Some models provide special access to it, which is a separate hole in the case.
Failure #4 – the pump turns off on its own
When the pump is turned on, it starts to work, but after some time it stops spontaneously. Most likely, the protective mechanism is triggered due to engine overheating.
The cause may be a heating cable. It is worth checking the compliance of the mains voltage and the parameters specified by the manufacturer. If the data does not match, you need to purchase a stabilizer.
The cause of overheating or spontaneous shutdown may be oxidation of wires that need to be cut or replaced. The problem becomes obvious after a complete check of the remaining pump parts
Shutdowns can also occur due to the blades being clogged with debris. In this case, we recommend performing a full cleaning procedure, that is, opening the housing, cleaning the internal chambers and impeller, and checking the filter.
If blockages occur quite often, re-read the instructions for the product to clarify the size of the fractions. Perhaps the pump is not designed for pumping liquid with large particles of debris - only a fecal pump is suitable for grinding
Failure #5 – turning on the pump knocks out the electrics
When the pump is turned on, plugs fly out or wires burn out. The reason should be sought in the parts directly responsible for conducting electricity - the cable or stator winding. The serviceability of the wires can be checked using a tester; if a worn section is detected, the entire cable should be replaced or (if the break is near the end) shortened.
Winding repair is a labor-intensive task and requires special knowledge. Even with a carefully installed secondary winding, a short circuit cannot be ruled out. If you don’t have time to tinker with a burnt-out part, take the device to a service center - perhaps, after diagnostics, they will advise you to buy a new pump.
If you decide to repair the winding yourself, try to take into account all the parameters - from the number of turns to the thickness and type of wire
Preventive measures and regular maintenance
As you can see, the cause of wear of parts can be both inevitable wear and tear and violation of equipment operating rules. To make the device last longer, try to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. For example, position the housing so that the suction device is at a certain distance from the base of the tank and does not capture coarse particles.
At least once a year, check the serviceability of the cable and internal parts by disassembling the case as much as possible. Perform preventative cleaning, which will increase the service life of parts several times. Do not confuse the drainage device with the fecal one - it does not have a special grinder and cannot cope with the movement of large inclusions.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Videos from craftsmen will help you properly organize the disassembly of pumps of various brands and troubleshoot problems yourself.
Stator overheating due to violation of interval operating mode:
Features of Pedrollo pump repair:
If, after studying our material, you still have questions, or you have encountered a drainage pump breakdown and know how to get out of such a situation, please leave comments. We are very interested to know your opinion.
Any malfunction of the water supply system at home is the result of an error by the organization or individual involved in its implementation. In this case, the homeowner has a good chance to learn from his mistakes by repairing the electric pump with his own hands and, with a “successful” set of circumstances, improve his health by carrying water manually for some time from the nearest water source.
Rice. 1 Well pump assembled
This sequence of actions applies to all types of pumping equipment, regardless of the location and method of installation. It should be noted that the power supply system of the pump, apart from the wires switched by switches, does not have complex circuits, so if the submersible water pump does not pump water, but starts and hums, problems with the supply of the required supply voltage in the vast majority of cases can be eliminated.
If the drainage pump or well model does not pump water, it may not start if the built-in or external condenser malfunctions and will require repair and replacement.
First of all, repair of electric pumps should begin by turning off the supply voltage, removing it from the water intake source and disconnecting the outlet hose.
When reconnecting, the reasons why the pump does not work can be divided into several areas according to the location of the manifestation - we will consider them below.
Rice. 2 Water supply scheme for a private house
Malfunctions of pump protection systems
Typically, a properly assembled water supply system and high-quality pumps have devices that prevent them from operating in idle mode.
In the event of a malfunction of such protective devices: the well dry running relay and the float switches of the drains, well or sewage pump, the devices can operate in the absence of water.
Sometimes the float switch of well or drainage pumps, due to improper installation, does not fall along with a drop in the water level (it gets on a hillock or clings to a protruding object) - this leads to the electric pump operating in idling mode and its further failure.
Rice. 3 Popular Gilex pump with float switch Vibration pumps, which usually do not have external protective devices connected to the system, operating for a long time without water after its level drops, can fail in the absence of built-in thermal protection.
Depressurization or breakage of the water main
The malfunction will help to identify the removal of the deep pump from the water intake source and connection to the supply voltage on the surface. If the pump, lowered into the water for testing, pumps water with the required pressure, then you should look for a leak at the place where the hose is connected to the outlet pipe or in the pipes that are laid underground for regular water supply at home (in a house, a leak can be easily noticed by the presence of water on the floor in a room with pumping equipment).
Mismatch between pump parameters and water intake source
During the dry season or with a sharp increase in water consumption, a situation may occur when the well or well does not have time to fill (the flow rate of the source is too low for normal operation of the pumping equipment). In this case, the electric pump will operate in dry running mode for some time in the absence of a similar relay or float switch in the system.
Clogged water intake system
A very common reason for the lack of water when the pump is running. Similar malfunctions can occur during the installation of pumping equipment: dirt and foreign objects can penetrate into the pipes. During operation, the screens and replaceable filter cartridges become clogged.
Fig.4 Clogged electric pump disassembled The filters and impeller of the impeller of submersible devices need regular cleaning during operation - if this does not happen, over time they become clogged and the operating pump hums, but does not pump water or does so with low pressure.
A situation often occurs when the pump actuator stops completely when clogged - the impeller does not rotate, and the vibration pump piston does not move. A clogged well or drainage pump removed from a water intake tank does not pump water when turned on superficially - do-it-yourself repairs will require disassembling and further cleaning of the device mechanism.
The pump has failed
The biggest problem that can happen to an electric pump is the burnout of the winding, and the device usually cannot be repaired (rewinding the winding with your own hands is difficult, and in a workshop the cost of work and materials will not be comparable to the price of the electric pump).
With this malfunction, the electric pump will hum, but will not be able to pump water.
Fig.5 Vibration pumps under repair Sometimes the impeller of borehole and well pumps may break, the check valve system may fail (they will not allow water to pass through) and the piston ring of vibration models may fail.
Due to constant vibrations during operation, vibration pumps are subject to loosening and unwinding of the mounting mechanism of the composite body, the fixing nuts of the check valve and the piston. These factors can lead to the loss of functionality of a working electric pump, which will hum but not pump water.
Violation of the operating rules for submersible pumps, errors in the installation of the water supply system, a sharp increase in water intake and a decrease in the flow rate of a well or borehole can lead to the hum of a working electric pump, in which water will not flow to the consumer. In most cases, you can repair electric pumps yourself if you remove the device to the surface to accurately determine the problem area.
As sad statistics show, in 98% of cases the drainage pump fails due to the fault of the user. Factory defects, of course, also sometimes occur, but extremely rarely. The fault of many is that the operating instructions are read mainly when the pump is no longer working.
All types of complaints when contacting service companies and workshops can be divided into 4 groups:
- all pumps are bad;
- we used it correctly, but it burned out;
- there was a circuit breaker (UPS, RCD, etc.), but it burned out;
- thermal protection is indicated in the document, but it burned out.
1. Strange as it may sound, in the vast majority of cases the cause of unit failure is operation without water or liquid. Even if you have a high-quality Aquarius pump (it ranks first among domestic products), but the work goes idle, the engine eventually overheats. Even with thermal protection of the motor from overheating, the winding burns out when running dry repeatedly.
2. When purchasing a three-phase pump, you need to understand how to check the voltage of each phase and control the risk of breakage. If at least one phase breaks, the motor winding burns out within a few seconds. The same can be said about an incorrect connection, when initially some phase does not work. Moreover, there is practically no way to prevent combustion; seconds really count.
3. The fecal pump often fails when large insoluble objects get into the sewer. When disassembling the pump, you can find rags, laces, tights on the impellers, and sometimes even belts and things. Drainage pumps are designed to work with debris of different fractions, but protection against such items is simply not provided.
If there is no check valve, this is also a guaranteed breakdown of the working shaft. The fact is that when draining water, the wheel accelerates and turns in one direction, and when pumping out, in the other. If at the same time the unit releases water and receives a command to pump out, the shaft simply breaks out.
4. Violation of the operating range often leads to breakdowns. You cannot overload the equipment, but it is also prohibited to force it to work at half capacity. This is especially true for circulation pumps in the heating system.
5. Frequent switching on/off also significantly reduces the resources of the unit. In the absence of a frequency converter, the operation of such a pump will not exceed 12 months. Such problems are typical for private houses where a small hydraulic accumulator is installed. To replenish the pump, it has to be constantly turned on and work with increased current, which leads to rapid wear. It is enough to install a hydraulic accumulator 2-3 times larger to solve this problem.
And finally, let’s note the main problem - pulling the submersible pump by the power cable (some even manage to pull the float). In this case, the tightness of the cable connection is broken, which leads to breakdown. To make it easier to pull the unit to the surface, you must initially tie a rope to it.
Reliable sewerage in a private house ensures maximum comfort for all residents. However, in some cases it can fail, becoming clogged with large particles or failing to process storm drains. In this case, drainage pumps are used, and therefore they must be maintained in good condition and ready.
Drainage self-priming equipment
Intensive operation of hydraulic devices can cause them to break. Users have to quickly repair clogged channels in devices, replace a burnt-out motor, or repair a water level float switch with their own hands. It is not always possible to do these operations correctly in a short time, so you need to worry about quality repairs in advance.
Design features of drainage pumps
A drainage water pump for pumping water uses its main element - an impeller - to build up pressure in the system. In addition to this, the design contains the following elements:
- pump unit;
- electric motor operating from a 220 V household network;
- suction unit with filter element;
- float switch.
Design
Since operating conditions imply the presence of liquid in contact with the housing, the outer part consists of tightly fitted parts of a composite housing. This ensures high-quality sealing, and the material for the housing is:
- stainless steel with sufficient chromium alloying content;
- moisture-resistant plastic.
During operation, it is necessary to protect the housing from mechanical damage so as not to depressurize the installation.
It is necessary to follow the manufacturer's operating recommendations so that the float pump for pumping out water works with liquid that contains contaminant particles of an acceptable fraction. The threshold geometric value is indicated in the device passport. Typically the permitted interval is 3-50 mm in diameter.
Industrial units can also work with large fractions. Improper operation of the pumps can lead to the electric motor humming, but not starting to return, or to other types of breakdowns.
Troubleshooting
In most cases, you can figure it out on your own. To do this you will need a set of wrenches, screwdrivers, pliers, a multimeter and possibly a soldering iron. In some cases, you will have to use the repair kit provided by the manufacturer.
VIDEO: Drainage pump. disassembly and repair
Mechanical breakdowns
In cases where the electric motor hums but does not rotate, the cause most often lies in a mechanical fault.
- It is worth checking the integrity of all blades. A broken piece can block the rotation of the head shaft located in the housing.
- Blocking of rotation, which causes a characteristic hum, is caused by a damaged bearing assembly on the shaft. Under the influence of wear, it worsens the alignment and leads to the shaft stopping.
To check for these reasons you need to:
- turn off the power supply;
- remove the pump from the water and place it on a level surface;
- try to rotate the working impeller by hand, visually checking its integrity.
If there is difficulty, the unit must be replaced or repaired, because if the electric motor does not start pumping, but hums, then the problem is often not in the electrician, but in blocking rotation.
Reduced water level
Drainage equipment in most models has a submersible design. Due to this, it is possible to effectively pump out liquid. Operation without liquid inside the working cavities of such pumps leads to rapid failure of the units. An important factor in protecting against operation without water is a special device - a float switch.
This is what a pump looks like when it has been running for a long time and is not completely immersed in liquid.
The part is capable of blocking the operation of the entire pump in a timely manner if the liquid level drops below a critical level for the device. The role of a kind of gyroscope is performed by a metal ball that changes its position depending on the location of the unit in the water. It acts on the lever, closing/opening electrical contacts.
Air valve malfunctions
Some drainage models have a special bleed valve. The accumulated air bubbles are passed through it. Many pollutants are dissolved in the problematic liquid media that the pump pumps. They are able to envelop the surface of the ball from the valve and due to this it can fill in its seat.
If the system does not provide constant air venting, then your Karcher will hum, but will not pump water. You can restore functionality after pumping a certain volume of clean water. The system will flush itself, and the liquid will remove contaminants from the ball.
Electric motor failure
The pump can become silent during operation and not respond to the supply of electricity. In many cases, this is due not so much to problems with the cable, which can fray or bend, but rather to an interturn short circuit:
- In such a situation, the characteristic smell of burnt wire insulation will be heard from the electric motor.
- The second sign will be significant overheating of the unit, which can be heard by touching the switched off unit with your hand.
The reason for such malfunctions is the lack of idle protection. Significant overheating of the motor leads to heating of the turns, and they, melting the insulation, form an electrical short circuit between the turns.
Cleaning the pump
Operation can only be restored by replacing the block or rewinding the wire in the damaged area. The second option may be a little cheaper, but if performed poorly, it can soon lead to new malfunctions.
Do-it-yourself pump repair
In most cases, doing repairs yourself comes down to eliminating mechanical damage. The most popular types of repairs are replacing the impeller or bearing units.
To completely disassemble the device, a special set of tools is required. The housing is opened when completely disconnected from the power supply and on a dry apparatus. In most cases, repairs are entrusted to experienced specialists.
VIDEO: Features of equipment repair