In this case, this is the common AXD-1WXSJ30W, with a power of 1W, a current of ~300mA and a brightness of ~100 Lumens.
In general, the purchase of these LEDs is associated with the desire to improve their brother - a Chinese lamp with 2 LDS of 36 watts. This is what he looked like before his first reincarnation:
Yes, yes, yellowed from the sun and with flies...
Such lamps can be prevented from yellowing and unattractive appearance by painting the housing with aluminum paint from a can. This will give them an aluminum color without the gloss. Looks chic and “rich”.)) 
But no... this is still a two-LED lamp that has set the teeth on edge?!
OK. Let's add fifty LEDs! (we use another fifty diodes for the second lamp) 
Testing “on the knee”: 
Works great!
Let's move on to preparing the lamp. We throw out the old guts - electronic ballast and lamp sockets. It turns out that the main (middle) part of the lamp body is indeed aluminum, which is what is needed for cooling!
First fitting: 
As planned, we need some parts made from aluminum profiles. Let's follow them to castorama: 
Wow... damn expensive. There are only two sizes - one meter and two meters. The lamp is about twenty meters long and it is more profitable for us to purchase meter-long profiles. But which ones? The W-shaped ones are damn good and look like a radiator. But the price is under 80 rubles... In addition, you will need three pieces for each lamp... And then we come across a wonderful I-beam 3cm x 2cm for a ridiculous price - 39 rubles. What the price is, why that is... I don’t know. 
One lamp requires a pair.
Another fitting 
We fasten them together with rivets as the cheapest means. Drill holes for the boards. 
We install the drivers. 
We also fasten the boards with soldered LEDs with rivets, lubricating their aluminum base this time with thermal conductive paste KPT-8. It is much cheaper than glue, and you need a lot of it for these purposes. 
Solder and lay the wires. 
The product is ready! 
So, we got rid of the old LDS and got a modern, stylish and unique LED lamp.
The heating temperature of the aluminum profile is around 60 degrees, which is quite acceptable.
The power consumption turned out to be approximately 45 watts versus 60 for an unconverted LDS. Our LED lamp shines clearly brighter (the LEDs, by the way, were bought in white colors) than the LDS, which remains a mystery to me, because characteristics of LDS lamps - 2500 lumens each. That is 5000 lumens for the entire lamp. About one-watt LEDs they write where 100-120 lumens, where 90-110... 50 of them were used per lamp, that is, it seems equivalent, but in fact it is 20 percent brighter.
Expenses.
1. LEDs 1W - 50 pcs ($4.2: 2) $2.1
2. boards for diodes - 10 pcs ($8: 2) $4
3. driver - 2 pcs ($2.36 * 2) $4.72
4. al. profile - 2 pieces (39 RUR * 2) 80 RUR or approximately $1.5
Total: $12.32 for 50 Watts.
That is, for 1 dollar you got 4 W of LED light. Record?
Hidden text
Look here:
- 9 W LED assembly (COB) on a ceramic substrate with a built-in driver! Just supply 220V! Lot of 10 pieces for $28 - 90W for $28 is 3.2W for $1.
But this is more interesting - 10 pieces of 5730 diodes on a board with a driver. A lot of 10 boards costs $12.78 and that's 50 W and... drum roll... 3.91 W per dollar!
Here (finished board) it turns out to be 3.84 W per dollar.
Well, the result of 4 W (400 lumens) per dollar is not so easy to beat. The option with discrete diodes is repairable and cheap.
PS: The sellers used them and did an excellent job - they sent them quickly and without delay. The LEDs were defective up to 20%, but at the first mention the seller offered to send (and subsequently sent) a double amount in return for the defect with the next order from him. So he closed the problem quickly. Unpretentious. I can recommend everyone.
A 13.5 W LED bulb should have been sufficient to sufficiently illuminate a room of 8 m2. But in reality it turned out that there was not enough light.
The analysis showed that the reason for insufficient illumination with sufficient lamp power lay in the design of the LED lamp. In its lower part, parallel to the horizon and directed downwards, there were only 36 LEDs, and from the remaining 162 the light flux went to the sides and, in addition, decreased, passing through the frosted glass of the lampshade. Thus, the actual illumination of the floor was equivalent to illumination by an LED directional light bulb with a power of no more than three watts.
Due to the wrong choice of the type of light bulb, insufficient illumination in the kitchen, especially in winter, created discomfort, and the realization came that it was time to replace the light bulb in the chandelier with an LED lamp of a different design.
The search for an inexpensive LED bulb with a power of about 16-18 W with a wide angle of directional warm light was not successful. Due to the installed optics, lamps with powerful one-watt LEDs had a small angle or the base did not fit. And suitable lamps were very expensive. Lamps with low-power LEDs such as LED-Y-SMD352 or LED-Y-SMD5050 were not satisfactory in terms of power.
Since the existing lamp had a large shade, the idea arose to make a powerful LED lamp with your own hands from several low-power ones. As a result, four inexpensive MR16 lamps with a power of 4.5 W were purchased, four sockets with a GU5.3 base were purchased for them, and one powerful lamp was made from them, the glow of which you see in the photo.
The cost was less than $10, and the conversion took several hours. The result was excellent. True, the lamp began to look unusual, as if the past and high-tech were combined. A high-power LED lamp made from several low-power ones has an additional advantage - if one of them burns out, the room will continue to be sufficiently illuminated by the remaining light bulbs; you can easily change the shade of light by installing, for example, two warm light bulbs and two cold light bulbs.
Making a powerful LED lamp
Any work on making homemade products begins with sketch work - measuring the dimensions of parts and, taking into account their overall and connecting dimensions, drawing up a general sketch of the future product.
To make a composite one high-power LED lamp from several low-power ones, you will need a base for an E27 socket with a base from an energy-saving lamp, four MR16 lamps and four GU5.3 sockets for them. You can see their overall and connecting dimensions in the photographs of the sketches.
Next, based on the obtained dimensions of the parts, you need to draw a sketch of the base of the future lamp. A fiberglass plate with a thickness of 1.5 mm and a diameter of 90 mm was chosen as the base. The base can also be made of any metal, for example, aluminum or steel 1 mm thick.
The next step is marking the future base of the lamp. Using a caliper or school compass, a forming line of the base is drawn. Next, in accordance with the sketch, drilling points for holes for sockets for light bulbs and wires are drawn. The base can be given a round shape using an electric or manual jigsaw. The base can also be made into a rectangular shape by cutting it out using metal scissors. After sawing or cutting, sharp edges should be removed using fine sandpaper.
To obtain holes in precisely marked places, it is better to first drill them with a thin drill, for example with a diameter of 1 mm, and then drill them to the desired diameter with a thicker drill.
It was decided to secure the GU5.3 sockets to the base using screws with metric M3 threads. Therefore, holes with a diameter of 2.5 mm were first drilled, and then the threads were cut using a tap.
The holes through which the electrical wires will pass were removed with a larger diameter drill and the sharp edges were removed and chamfered.
The base for the homemade lamp is ready and you can begin installing parts on it. To give the base an aesthetic appearance, you can paint it or cover it with film.
The easiest way is to cover the base with self-adhesive aluminum foil. I didn’t have a strip wide enough, and that’s why I ended up with a seam. If there is no foil covered with a sticky layer, then you can glue ordinary aluminum foil, which is used for household needs, or a chocolate bar wrapper using glue, for example, “Moment”.
The socket from the base of the E27 energy-saving lamp is attached to the base using two corners with metric screws, bent at right angles from strips that clamp the power cable in Soviet-style C1-b electrical plugs. Corners can be made by cutting strips of steel sheet 1-2 mm thick, and use self-tapping screws as fasteners.
To ensure that the base of the energy-saving lamp does not spoil the insulation of the wires coming from the GU5.3 sockets, samples were made on four sides using a round file.
The first to be installed and secured onto the base of the future composite lamp are the GU5.3 electric sockets. The wires coming out of the sockets were quite long. I did not shorten them, since there was enough space for laying the wires in the base from the energy-saving lamp.
Next, one wire coming from each cartridge is twisted together. The remaining four wires from the cartridges are also twisted together. The resulting twists are soldered using a soldering iron with tin-lead solder. If soldering is not possible, the connection can be made using a terminal block.
It remains to lay out the wires in a spiral and connect their ends with the ends of the wires connected to the base of the energy-saving lamp. The color marking of the wires does not matter in this case.
The twisted wires coming from the sockets and the base are placed coaxially overlapping each other and secured with a drop of solder. A piece of vinyl chloride tube is put on the place of soldering for insulation.
All that remains is to thread the wires into the base of the energy-saving lamp and secure it to the base of the lamp with two screws. The new composite lamp is ready and can be screwed into the lamp socket and installed in GU5.3 LED bulb sockets.
Tests have shown that the LED light bulbs in the sockets are held with a sufficient layer. But the possibility of them falling out still existed. Therefore, to securely fasten them, a threaded stand was additionally installed in the center of the base.
After installing the LED bulbs, a large washer was secured to the stand using an M3 screw, which pressed the bulbs by the edges to the sockets and prevented them from spontaneously slipping out over time. Instead of a washer, you can attach, for example, frosted glass to a stand to obtain softer light or a decorative decoration.
The photo shows a self-made high-power LED light bulb made from four low-power ones. The photo of the lamp was taken from the base side. The lamp somehow reminds me of a modern spacecraft.
And this photo shows the view of a homemade lamp made from four low-power MR16s from their installation side.
Everyone who knew me saw a lamp with a modernized lamp was surprised at the wonder and noted the excellent illumination that the light bulbs provided in the kitchen. Although, when coming up with this design, I had a good idea of what would ultimately turn out, but the result exceeded all my expectations. It turned out much more interesting.
The proposed technology for manufacturing an LED lamp can be used to manufacture an adapter in order to be able to install a light bulb in a lamp with a type of base different from the type of lamp socket.
Gradually, lighting devices are switching to LED lamps. This did not happen immediately; there was a protracted transition period with the use of so-called housekeepers - compact gas-discharge light bulbs with a built-in power supply (driver) and a standard E27 or E14 socket.
Such lamps are still widely used today, since their cost in comparison with LED light sources is not so “biting”.
While there is a good balance between price and efficiency (the difference in price with conventional incandescent lamps pays off over time due to energy savings), gas-discharge light sources have a number of disadvantages:
- Service life is lower than that of incandescent lamps.
- High frequency noise from the power supply.
- Lamps do not like frequent switching on and off.
- Gradual decrease in brightness.
- Impact on nearby surfaces: a dark spot appears on the surface of the ceiling (above the lamp) over time.
- And in general, I don’t really want to have a flask with a certain amount of mercury in my house.
An excellent alternative is LED lamps. The list of advantages is significant: - Amazing efficiency (up to 10 times compared to incandescent lamps).
- Huge service life.
- Perfect and safe power supplies (drivers).
- Absolutely independent of the number of inclusions.
- With normal cooling, they do not lose brightness for almost the entire period of operation.
- Complete mechanical safety (even if the decorative diffuser is broken, no harmful substances will enter the room).
- The direction of the light flux places high demands on the design of the diffuser.
- Still, they are expensive (we are talking about high-quality brands, nameless mid-level products are quite affordable).
But it is precisely in this design that the “ambush” lies.
We have before us a high-quality (at the same time relatively inexpensive) lamp with a brightness of 1000 Lm (equivalent to a 100-watt incandescent lamp) and a power consumption of 13 W. These LED light sources have been working for me for many years, they shine with a pleasant warm light (temperature 2700 K), and no degradation of brightness is observed over time.
But for powerful light, serious cooling is required. Therefore, 2/3 of the body of this lamp consists of a radiator. It is plastic, does not spoil the appearance, and is quite effective. The main drawback follows from the design - the real light source is the hemisphere at the top of the lamp. This makes it difficult to select a lamp - not every horn chandelier will have such a lamp look harmonious.
There is only one way out - to buy ready-made LED lamps, the configuration of which was initially designed for specific light sources.
The key word is buy. What should you do with your favorite floor lamps, chandeliers and other lamps in your apartment?
Therefore, it was decided to design LED lamps ourselves.
The main criterion is cost minimization.There are two main directions in the development of LED light sources:
1. Use of low-power (up to 0.5 W) LEDs. You need a lot of them, you can configure any shape. No need for a powerful radiator (they heat up little). A significant drawback is more painstaking assembly.
2. Use of powerful (1 W - 5 W) LED elements. Efficiency is high, labor costs are several times less. But point radiation requires the selection of a diffuser, and good radiators are needed to implement the project.
For experimental designs, I chose the first option. The most inexpensive “raw materials”: 5 mm LEDs with a dispersion of 120° in a transparent housing. They are called "straw hats".
The characteristics are as follows:
- forward current = 20 mA (0.02 A)
- voltage drop across 1 diode = 3.2-3.4 volts
- color – warm white
I bought several packs 100 pcs. on aliexpress(link to purchase). It cost a little less than 1 rub. a piece.
As power supplies (more precisely, current sources), I decided to use a proven circuit with a quenching (ballast) capacitor. The advantages of such a driver are extreme low cost and minimal energy consumption. Since there is no PWM controller or linear current stabilizer, excess energy does not escape into the atmosphere: in this circuit there are no elements with a heat-dissipating radiator.
Disadvantage: lack of current stabilization. That is, if the mains voltage is unstable, the brightness of the glow will change. My outlet has exactly 220 (+/- 2 volts), so this circuit is just right.
The element base is also not expensive.
- diode bridges of the KTs405A series (any diodes can be used, even Schottky ones)
- film capacitors with a voltage of 630 volts (with a reserve)
- 1-2 watt resistors
- electrolytic capacitors 47 mF at 400 volts (you can take a larger capacity, but this goes beyond the scope of economy)
- little things like a breadboard and fuses are usually in the arsenal of any radio amateur
After carefully (on the street!) removing the flask with mercury vapor, you are left with an excellent workpiece for creativity.
The basis of the basics is the calculation and principle of operation of a current driver with a quenching capacitor
A typical diagram is shown in the illustration:
How the scheme works:
Resistor R1 limits the current surge when power is applied until the circuit stabilizes (about 1 second). Value from 50 to 150 Ohm. Power 2 W.Resistor R2 ensures the operation of the ballast capacitor. Firstly, it discharges it when the power is turned off. At a minimum, to prevent you from being shocked when unscrewing the light bulb. The second task is to prevent a current surge in the case when the polarity of the charged capacitor and the first half-wave of 220 volts do not coincide.
Actually, the damping capacitor C1 is the basis of the circuit. It is a kind of current filter. By selecting the capacitance, you can set any current in the circuit. For our diodes it should not exceed 20 mA at peak mains voltage.
Next, the diode bridge works (after all, LEDs are elements with polarity).
Electrolytic capacitor C2 is needed to prevent the lamp from flickering. LEDs have no inertia when turned on and off. Therefore, the eye will see a flicker with a frequency of 50 Hz. By the way, cheap Chinese lamps are guilty of this. The quality of the capacitor is checked using any digital camera, even a smartphone. Looking at the burning diodes through a digital matrix, you can see blinking, indistinguishable to the human eye.
In addition, this electrolyte provides an unexpected bonus: the lamps do not turn off immediately, but with a noble slow attenuation until the capacity is discharged.
The quenching capacitor is calculated using the formula:
I = 200*C*(1.41*U network - U led)
I – resulting circuit current in amperes
200 is a constant (network frequency 50Hz * 4)
1.41 – constant
C – capacitance of capacitor C1 (quenching) in farads
U network - estimated network voltage (ideally 220 volts)
U led – total voltage drop across the LEDs (in our case – 3.3 volts, multiplied by the number of LED elements)
By selecting the number of LEDs (with a known voltage drop) and the capacity of the quenching capacitor, it is necessary to achieve the required current. It should not be higher than specified in the characteristics of the LEDs. It is the strength of the current that you regulate the brightness of the glow, and inversely proportional to the lifespan of the LEDs.
For convenience, you can create a formula in Excel.
The circuit has been tested several times, the first copy was assembled almost 3 years ago, it works in a kitchen lamp, there have been no malfunctions.
Let's move on to the practical implementation of projects. There is no point in discussing the number of LED elements and capacitor capacity in individual circuits: the projects are individual for each lamp. Calculated strictly according to the formula. The above circuit for 60 LEDs with a 68 microfarad capacitor is not just an example, but a real calculation for a current in the circuit of 15 mA (to extend the life of the lights).
LED lamp in a chandelier
We use the gutted cartridge from the housekeeper as a housing for the circuit and supporting structure. In this project I did not use a breadboard; I assembled the driver on a 1 mm thick PVC roundel. It turned out to be just the right size. Two capacitors - due to the selection of capacitance: the required number of microfarads was not found in one element.
A yogurt jar was used as a housing to house the LED elements. In the design I also used scraps of 3 mm foamed PVC sheets.
After assembly it turned out neat and even beautiful. This arrangement of the socket is associated with the shape of the chandelier: the horns are directed upward, towards the ceiling.
Next we place the LEDs: according to the scheme, 150 pcs. We pierce the plastic with an awl, labor costs: one full evening.
Looking ahead, I will say: the material of the case did not justify itself, it is too thin. The next lamp was made from 1 mm PVC sheet. To give it a shape, I calculated the cone scan for the same 150 diodes.
It turned out not so elegant, but reliable, and holds its shape perfectly. The lamp is completely hidden in the chandelier arm, so appearance is not so important.
Actually, installation.
It shines evenly and doesn’t hurt your eyes.
I didn’t measure the lumens, but it felt brighter than a 40 W incandescent lamp, a little weaker than 60 W.
LED lamp in a flat ceiling lamp for the kitchen
An ideal donor for such a project. All LEDs will be located in the same plane.
We draw a template and cut out a matrix to accommodate the LED elements. With this diameter, a flat PVC sheet will be deformed. So I used the bottom of a plastic bucket of construction mixtures. There is a stiffening rib along the outer contour.
The diodes are installed using the usual awl: 2 holes according to the markings.
For any work, as well as during rest, you need good light. You can buy a lamp, but sometimes it is not cheap. In the store, instead of a ready-made lamp, you can purchase an LED strip. It is relatively inexpensive and can be cut into pieces of any length. If you place it in the housing or secure it in another way, you will get a homemade lamp with an LED strip. You can take this lamp with you to your tent when fishing. When traveling, the LED lamp is connected to a car battery.
Scope of application of homemade LED lamps
Homemade LED lamps for LED strip can be used instead of conventional ones:
- illumination of the workplace when performing small work in a workshop or garage;
- illumination from above the aquarium (if the tape is waterproof or in a sealed housing, then the lamp can be lowered into the water);
- illumination of seedlings or indoor plants in winter;
- night light or table lamp;
- lighting of switches and sockets;
- computer keyboard lighting;
- for replacing fluorescent lamps.
On the Internet you can find many other types of floor lamps and ceiling chandeliers made from LED strips with photos and videos, as well as reviews from people who collected and used such lamps.
Types and parameters of LED strips
LED strip color optionsLED strips are available in different designs depending on the type of protection. They can be of different brightness and different colors, which are determined by color temperature - from warm white (2700K) to cold (6800K), as well as colored or capable of changing their color - RGB tapes. This makes it possible to select the type of device for specific purposes.
LED strip device
LED strip is a flexible plastic strip with conductive strips printed on it. Two are located at the edges and connections are made to them. The rest connect LEDs and resistors to each other. They are arranged in groups - three LEDs connected in series, and a resistor that serves to limit the current flowing through them.
LED strip parameters The strip itself can be cut into sections that are multiples of three LEDs. In these places there are marks indicating the place of the cut and the contact pads to which the wires are soldered or connected using connectors.
LEDs can be coated with a layer of silicone on one or both sides. This determines the degree of protection from external influences. On the reverse side, an adhesive layer is applied to the strip, like on double-sided tape. With its help, the LEDs are attached to the base.
The most common supply voltage is constant, 12V. There are designs designed to connect to a voltage of 24V and higher, but these are not very common designs.
Types of LEDs used
LEDs and resistors in the strip are used in the SMD series, without leads. LEDs in production are used in different sizes, which determines the marking of the strip - 5050 and 3528. These numbers show the size of the LED in tenths of a millimeter
Visual difference between 5050 and 3528 
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Ask a question to an expertThe larger the size, the higher the brightness and the current and power consumption. It also depends on the number of LEDs per meter of length.
Accordingly, marking an SMD 5050 strip with a density of 60 LEDs means that 60 SMD 5050 LEDs are installed per meter of length.
Controllers, power supplies for LED strips
controller and power supply Since the LED strip is designed for a constant voltage of 12V, a power supply or controller is required for connection.
Important! When you connect the LED strip to a 220 volt network, it will instantly burn out!
Power supplies are produced in different capacities and shapes. From low-power ones, similar to tablet chargers, to powerful designs in a metal case with built-in coolers.
LED strip power supply power Some power supplies are equipped with dimmers and remote controls. RGB strips require an RGB controller to control color.
There are models controlled via WiFi, with color and music effects, for example, ARILUX® AL-LC01.
If you don’t have a special block available, you can use:
- Any transformer with an output voltage of 12V. A diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor must be connected to the output.
- The computer power supply, both in the computer itself and separately.
- If you need 3-6 LEDs, then to limit the current you can use a capacitor, as well as a diode bridge and a capacitor that smoothes out the pulsations of the glow. This scheme is used in LED lamps installed instead of incandescent lamps. The capacitance of the capacitor can be calculated using an online calculator.
- Make an energy-saving lamp out of the board of a faulty lamp.
- Connect 20 pieces of LED strip in series and connect through a diode bridge and a smoothing capacitor to a 220V network.
Preparation of materials and parts
making a lamp with your own hands Before starting work, you need to determine the required number and brightness of the LED strip, as well as the power of the power supply.
First of all, you need to determine the length. For lamps used in different places you need:
- night light and illumination of switches and sockets - a segment of three LEDs;
- aquarium lighting – along the length of the wall;
- illumination of a bed with seedlings - several pieces, a length equal to the length of the beds;
- computer keyboard – along the length of the keyboard;
- To replace a fluorescent lamp, you need several pieces, equal in length to the length of the lamp.
The brightness of the strip, the size and density of the LEDs are determined based on specific conditions.
The power of the power supply should be no less than the power of the LED lamp, and preferably 20% more. This is necessary for more reliable operation of the unit.
In addition, you will need wires, heat shrink tubing to insulate the connection point, a soldering iron with tin and rosin, or a connector for connection.
Expert opinion
Alexey Bartosh
Specialist in repair and maintenance of electrical equipment and industrial electronics.
Ask a question to an expertAttention! You cannot solder the tape with acid! Acid fumes oxidize and destroy wires and can also cause short circuits.
If the lamp will be used in an aquarium for internal lighting, then you will need a transparent tube and silicone sealant to ensure the tightness of the structure.
Lamp assembly
LED lamp assembly After developing the design of the future lamp and preparing all the tools and materials, the lamp itself is assembled.
Sometimes the entire assembly process involves applying tape to a base, such as a backlit keyboard that sits on a pull-out shelf under a desk.
In other cases, it is necessary to manufacture or remodel an existing lamp.
Features and stages of installation work
Installation and connection of a lamp made from LED strip has a number of features:
- The power supply should be located as close to the LEDs as possible. The longer the wires, the greater the voltage loss in them, which leads to a loss of brightness of the lamp.
- It is advisable to isolate the LEDs from the base if it is metal.
- When connecting the device directly from a 220V network (via a capacitor), use only a tape coated with silicone on both sides.
Carefully! There is high voltage on such a tape, so all manipulations with it are carried out in the off state.
What to do if there is no ready-made LED strip
If you don’t have a ready-made LED strip, you can make it yourself.
To do this, the required number of LEDs must be connected in series and a current-limiting resistor connected to them. You can assemble such a structure on a strip of getinax or textolite, where holes are drilled for mounting LEDs. Such a device can be assembled for any required voltage and number of LEDs.
If you are interested in how to make an LED lamp with your own hands at home, then we will provide several step-by-step instructions with photo and video examples that will allow you to assemble an LED lamp in no more than an hour. All ideas provided below will be listed from the simplest to the most complex, which will allow you to choose the appropriate option depending on your skills in handling a soldering iron and electrical circuits.
Idea No. 1 – Upgrading a halogen light bulb
The easiest way is to make an LED lamp yourself from a burnt-out halogen light bulb with -GU4. In this case, you will need the following materials and tools:
- LEDs. Choose their number yourself depending on how bright the LED lighting should be. We immediately draw your attention to the fact that you should not choose more than 22 diodes (this will complicate the assembly process and also make the light bulb too bright).
- Super glue (regular glue will do, but it will take longer to harden, which will not allow you to make an LED lamp quickly).
- A small piece of copper wire.
- Resistors. Their number and power will be calculated by an online calculator.
- A small piece of sheet aluminum (an alternative is a regular beer or carbonated drink can).
- Internet access. You will need to open a special online calculator to calculate the LED lamp circuit.
- Hammer, soldering iron and hole punch.
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed directly to assembling the diode light bulb. We will provide instructions for creating a homemade one step by step, with photo examples of each stage, so that you can clearly see the installation process.
So, to make a 12 volt LED lamp, you need to follow these steps:
- Remove the top glass from the old halogen light bulb, as well as the white putty near the pin base (as shown in the photo below). The best way to do this is to use a screwdriver.
- Turn the lamp upside down and carefully use a hammer to knock the pins out of their seats. The old halogen bulb should fall out.
- According to the number of LEDs you have chosen, come up with a diagram of their location, based on which make a paper stencil. You can use an existing blank and print one of the ready-made diagrams shown in the picture:
- Glue the stencil to a sheet of aluminum using super glue, cut the sheet to the shape of the stencil, then use a hole punch to make seats for the LEDs.
- Generate an LED lamp assembly drawing on the Internet for your conditions. In our case, to create an LED light bulb at home from 22 diodes, you need to assemble the following circuit:
- Place the aluminum disk on a convenient stand and insert the LEDs into the seats, as shown in the photo. To simplify the soldering process, bend the cathode leg of one diode to the anode leg of the other.
- Carefully glue all the LEDs, making them a single structure. An important point is that the glue should not get on the legs of the diodes, because When soldering, extremely unpleasant smoke will be released.
- Once the glue has hardened, start soldering the legs. By the way, we recommend that you do this, which also won’t take much time. According to the diagram, solder the diodes of the LED lamp, leaving only one positive leg and one negative leg for connecting power. It is recommended to cut the “-” leg in half so as not to subsequently confuse the polarity of the contacts of a homemade LED light bulb.
- According to the diagram, solder resistors to the negative contacts. As a result, according to our example, there should be 6 positive terminals and 6 negative terminals (with resistors).
- Solder the resistors according to the generated circuit.
- Solder an identical piece of copper wire to the resulting two contacts, which will result in making a pin base for an LED lamp at home. By analogy with the previous advice, temporarily make one leg shorter (negative) so that you don’t confuse anything later and make the connection correctly.
- To prevent this from happening in the future, carefully glue the space between the removed legs.
- Complete the final assembly of the LED light bulb: place the disk on the reflector and carefully glue it.
- Use a marker to sign where “+” and where “-” on the body of the assembled LED lamp; also indicate that the homemade light source is designed to be connected to a 12 Volt power supply, not 220.
- Check the assembled homemade product. To do this, connect the LED light bulb to a car battery or 220/12 Volt power supply.
In this simple way you can make an LED lamp with your own hands using improvised materials. As you can see, there is nothing complicated and you don’t need to spend much time on assembly! We recommend that you check out some of the best ideas for creating a light bulb at home, which we have provided in the video gallery:
Idea No. 2 – “Housekeeper” in action!
The second, no less interesting idea is to assemble a light bulb from an energy-saving lamp. There is also no particularly serious work involved, and even a not very experienced electrician can handle the assembly. 
To begin, you must prepare the following materials and tools to assemble an LED lamp with your own hands:
Having prepared all the materials, you can proceed to assembly. This instruction is more creative, so if you decide to make a diode light bulb from a burnt housekeeper, carefully look at the photo examples.
Stages of work:
Using these instructions, you can easily make an LED lamp from a fluorescent or halogen light bulb!
Idea No. 3 – LED strip as a basis
If you are not so good with a soldering iron and at the same time have no idea how to assemble a circuit on fiberglass, it is better to make an LED lamp with your own hands from LED strip. In this case, instead of a driver, you can use a power supply that converts 220 Volts in the network into 12. The only significant drawback of this method is the large dimensions of the power supply, so this option is recommended if you decide to use LED spotlights in the room. You can try to assemble all the light bulbs for them with your own hands and connect them to a single power supply, which can be hidden in the ceiling without any problems. 
So all you need to do is:
That's all the instructions for assembling an LED lamp from strip. As you can see, everything is much simpler than even making a light bulb according to the generated diagram. This is where our simple instructions end, and now you know how to make an LED lamp with your own hands from an energy-saving light bulb, diode strip and a halogen light source! We hope that the ideas provided were useful and understandable for you!
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