Hello. My house was built about 50 years ago and was inherited. Walls cast from slag; The outside of the house is lined with brick. The brickwork is currently very well preserved. This house always had problems with the walls due to the proximity of groundwater, lack of steam heating and waterproofing.

Inside these walls are plastered with clay. Now the walls are collapsing and have cracks because... slag in walls up to 1 m high from ground level is destroyed under the influence of dampness and time. The foundation is more or less normal. At the moment I am planning to waterproof the foundation and make drainage to drain groundwater.

But what to do with the walls? How to prevent their further destruction and strengthen them for many years? And does it even make sense to do something in such a house? Thank you in advance for your response.

Sergey, Donetsk.

Hello, Sergey from Donetsk!

What can I say? Everything is determined locally in accordance with the possibility or impossibility of repairing the lower part of the wall.

Sometimes the following operation helps. (Naturally, with the foundation waterproofing and drainage work you mentioned for groundwater drainage.)

At a height of a meter, along the approximate boundary of the tolerable quality of the walls and the collapsing areas along the entire perimeter of the walls of the house, they cut a slot-groove to the full thickness of the walls and insert a support in the form of a channel there. Since it is impossible to do this at the same time - the walls can simply collapse downwards, then the grooves and installation of the channel are done in sections of about a meter to one and a half meters. In this case, you still need to manage and connect the ends of the channel to each other using backing plates and welding.

/Less often used is a wide edged antiseptic board wrapped in roofing felt with a thickness of 50 millimeters, which is also inserted into the groove in sections and fastened into a single base./

After such a base-bracing is made, then supports are made from rolled metal (less often wooden beams) under it in increments of the same meter and a half. Why are they tapping the slag of the walls again, but this time vertically, for their installation. The result is something like a frame - a strapping crown with its support on pillars, which in turn must rest securely on a strip foundation (usually through metal plates).

Then the old cinder wall along the bottom of the entire perimeter of the house is dismantled. And instead, concrete is poured using formwork, which becomes the base of the walls.

As a result, it turns out that the upper part of the walls remains from old slag, and the lower part of the walls from concrete.

But I repeat once again, everything is determined by location, because there is a lot of fuss, and as a result, the upper part of the walls still remains from old slag.

There are such old houses in which the facing brick is a relatively tolerable support for the roof of the house. Then in some places the ceiling is strengthened (but only on the condition that it is connected to the brickwork of the cladding, and not just resting on cinder walls) and the rafter system with the help of racks. And the slag-cast walls are completely removed and instead they are made either of concrete with reinforcement, or sand-cement or expanded clay concrete blocks are placed.

Well, the last option, when none of the above can be done and you have to completely destroy the structure and build a new one in its place.

Other questions on the topic of flooding and consequences.

What to do if the walls of a slag dump house crumble? How to independently repair slag-cast walls to achieve the desired result?

In the post-war years and until the 70s of the last century, there was a shortage of high-quality building materials in the country. Therefore, houses in villages and in the private sector were often built from slag, which was industrial waste. It was mixed with cement mortar and poured into pre-installed formwork, thus erecting walls. Since this was all done unprofessionally, and cement was saved by greatly diluting the solution with sand, in our time it is becoming increasingly important to repair slag-cast walls. They crack and literally crumble.

Slag dump house. The walls are crumbling. How to make repairs?

Of course, ideally such a house should be demolished and a new one built in its place. However, not everyone can afford such expenses. Besides, while construction is going on, you need to live somewhere. Therefore, we will consider repair options.

What should you do if repairing slag walls definitely won’t give the desired result?

Alas, it does not always make sense to spend time, effort and money on repairing walls of this type. If time and the forces of nature have made them completely unsuitable for any restoration work, we recommend doing the following:

strengthen the foundation or make a new one. As with the walls, some savings were probably made on materials for the foundation. This means that even if the house has not yet shrunk and the walls have not cracked, one day this will still happen. And this is a matter for the foreseeable future;
according to your financial capabilities and the availability of free time, build brick walls (or walls from other building materials) on top of the new foundation, continuing to live in your old house, which you will, in fact, “surround” with the new one;
Upon completion of the main construction work, dismantle the old house. This will not be difficult to do, given the degree of wear of the walls;
do not forget about arranging a blind area that will reliably protect the foundation from the destructive effects of moisture.

And most importantly, rest assured that you will succeed if you want to make your home better and more comfortable!

How to repair a slag house? Utility room com - how to build a house and renovate it. Repair of slag foundation

Technologies for repairing cinder-cast houses - VotMastera.ru

Our company offers to repair slag-filled houses at an affordable cost. We strengthen the old structure, guarantee its reliability and increase its service life. To do this, our craftsmen build a new foundation, perform brick cladding, replace the roof and carry out interior work. Turnkey renovation! Warranty – from 5 years!

Old slag house

Work technology

All technologies for repairing a slag-filled house require mandatory reinforcement of the structure. This primarily concerns the foundation, walls and roof. The most durable and suitable material for strengthening the walls of an old house is brick. This cladding is used both for the construction of walls and for finishing objects built from other materials.

General technology for repairing a slag-filled house:

We dismantle the old roofing (most often slate) and the rafter system. At the same time, we remove the remaining slag filling from the attic.
Next to the old, usually loose foundation, we pour a new strip foundation.
We carry out the arrangement of the blind area, waterproofing and insulation of the basement.
We remove the slag fill in the corners of the house and lay strong columns.
We are building a brick wall on the new foundation. We use clinker facing material. To increase strength, we connect the new wall to the old one. We insulate the gap between them.
We are installing a new rafter system, installing and insulating the roof (metal tiles), and covering the gables.

Brick cladding

High strength and reliability - it cannot be compared with the strength of slag walls, which are already more than 40-50 years old. Also, brick is 3 times stronger than foam concrete blocks.
High durability - brick objects last more than 100 years. This is the best way to extend the life of an old cinder-filled house. It is even better to choose clinker material for cladding.
Complete fire safety - the fire resistance of brick has never been in doubt. Your home will be safe, but for this you still need to properly arrange the electrical wiring.
Environmentally friendly - we carry out safe brick cladding that does not contain any chemicals. The materials our craftsmen use are natural products.
Opportunity to implement unique architectural solutions. We offer finishing of facades of old cinder houses according to individual projects.

The house becomes stronger and more beautiful

Why is it not so common to repair the facade of a slag house with bricks:

High price of brick construction. Especially when compared with ordinary plaster, which is most often used for such purposes.
The high weight of brick cladding requires the construction of a massive foundation. Strengthening the existing foundation for a cinder house makes no sense. As a rule, this design is not durable and reliable.
Work on repairing and finishing the facade of a slag house with bricks cannot be carried out all year round.

These are the main disadvantages. But we note that old slag walls need strengthening, not cosmetic repairs. For this reason, they should not be covered with siding or other panels. First of all, you need to strengthen the foundation!

Repair example

To implement this project, craftsmen used modern technologies to quickly repair slag-cast (slag-filled) old houses:

The roof was dismantled.
The foundation was poured.
The old cinder walls were lined with clinker bricks and insulated.
We installed a new rafter system, laid roofing, and insulated the roof.
The internal walls were covered with plasterboard sheets.
The interiors were decorated in a laconic modern style, adding delicate Japanese motifs.
A dark parquet board was laid on the floor in the bedroom of this house. One of the walls of the home was painted coral.

Interiors after renovation

Cladding technology

Our craftsmen securely attach the new brick wall to the slag base. To do this, we establish special connections. We select their length taking into account the thickness of the slag load-bearing walls, new cladding, ventilated gap and the thickness of the mineral insulation.

Note! It is imperative to leave an air gap of 3 cm between the new brick and old slag wall. To ensure ventilation of the new facade, craftsmen leave special technological holes in the new wall.

We lay a new brick wall from the bottom up, regularly checking its evenness using a level. To prevent efflorescence on the new façade, our specialists use masonry mortar prepared from special mixtures. We use clinker bricks to complete your projects, which are characterized by the highest strength, durability and frost resistance.

We guarantee that no cracks or efflorescence will appear on the walls of a slag house after reinforcement and cladding. Quality from specialists! Warranty – from 5 years.

The video discusses the main points of repairing slag houses.

Our company offers to repair a cinder-cast house at a competitive price. By contacting us, you can be sure of high quality work aimed at increasing the durability, thermal insulation and presentability of your home. Call, check prices for repairing a slag house and order a turnkey project!

votmastera.ru

Slag foundation - specifics and choice of material, arrangement of the underground part

The use of slag in foundation construction is due to the savings in material resources. But it must be remembered that such a design, due to its characteristics, may not live up to expectations. As a result, the cost of restoring the house will significantly exceed the amount required to build a high-quality foundation. Experts do not recommend using slag in the construction of the underground part of residential buildings. This method can be used as a last resort or when constructing unimportant objects, such as sheds, garages, summer kitchens and other outbuildings. Although one should not ignore the fact that many owners of houses built on slag during the period of general shortage 20-25 years ago claim that they have not encountered any problems over the years.

Specifics of the material

It is quite difficult to predict what strength a slag foundation will have, since no one accurately determines the proportions of the components found in waste from metallurgical enterprises. One delivered batch of bulk material may contain heterogeneity associated with an unequal amount of metal and cement chips or other inclusions. This fact influences the fact that under the same operating conditions, and even under the same house, the constructed foundation can behave completely differently.

In addition, the standards do not describe the algorithm for calculating the slag foundation, as well as a clear technology for its installation. Masters are guided by their own experience or tips from friends. But this does not always lead to positive results.

Slag can degrade when exposed to water, so it should not be used on a building site with a high groundwater level. For the same reason, a foundation built on dry soil requires enhanced waterproofing, but for protection from rain and melt water. In addition, care should be taken in advance about the drainage system that removes moisture from the underground structure in order to avoid the formation of stagnant processes.

The load-bearing capacity of a slag foundation is insufficient to support permanent buildings, although there are many known cases of its successful construction under country houses and relatively light residential buildings.

The use of slag when constructing foundations is strictly prohibited in seismically active regions. There is no need to even doubt that the underground structure will not withstand the jerky movements of the soil and will collapse. For territories included in the risk zone due to possible earthquakes, specific structural construction schemes are provided.

Which slag to choose

Single types of slag are suitable for foundation construction. Their properties are determined depending on several components, the main ones being:

chemical composition;
cooling mode;
primacy of processing;
grain size.

Slag is formed during the smelting of ferrous or non-ferrous metals, as a result of burning fuel in thermal power plants, during the production of fertilizers, in particular phosphorus, etc. The specifics of the production where the material was obtained determine its chemical composition and the proportions of its components. The foundations are laid from heavy waste slag generated in iron or steel mills.

Industrial waste generated at thermal power plants or chemical industry enterprises is not allowed to be used.

The approximate composition of the slag can be judged by its color. For example, a gray tint indicates the presence of cement, a greenish or black tint is obtained during the melting of non-ferrous metals, and a bluish tint indicates the presence of manganese inclusions. External assessment of slag is also made by grain size and number of large pieces. The structure of the material should be crumbly, and the fraction should be less than 5 mm. When watered, small particles contribute to better compaction of the slag, which reduces the porosity of the future structure of the foundation block.

Slag mixed with cement, subjected to repeated processing, loses the ability to set and harden due to the maximum loss of the binder component. For this reason, it will never turn out to be a monolith. Ideally, the slag should contain about a third of the cement dust, which is important for proper hardening of the compacted mass.

When constructing foundations, it is recommended to use hot slag, or rather warm, but still smoking. It is from this material that structures with good load-bearing capacity are obtained. “Fresh” slag has a crumbly structure without the presence of lumps, which is the best solution.

If you need to store slag outdoors, you must remember that under the influence of rain or high humidity, the material begins to harden. The top crust can be quite tough and will require considerable force to break it down to release some of the usable material. Therefore, the slag brought and dumped for the time being should be protected from moisture before the start of the work process.

Construction of a slag foundation

Based on the above, it can be noted that:

You should not build heavy buildings on a slag foundation;
the structure of the hardened slag along the perimeter of the belt may be heterogeneous;
the material must not be soaked before work begins;
It is quite difficult to select high-quality waste from metallurgical production, relying on external signs;
the finished structure is afraid of water, so it requires good waterproofing.

All these factors should be taken into account when constructing a slag foundation. But first of all, it is necessary to carry out preparatory work, which consists of clearing the area of foreign objects, removing the fertile layer and moving it to another place, marking it, and also digging a trench. For formwork you will need to stock up on solid boards and nails, and to remove communications - pipe scraps.

The depth of laying the foundation strip is taken depending on the soil freezing index. A trench is dug taking into account the construction of a crushed stone cushion 30 cm thick. To ensure better stability of the underground structure, it is laid with mandatory compaction of the bottom of the excavation and layer-by-layer compaction of crushed stone.

To reduce the risk of foundation destruction due to soil movements, deepening it by at least 1.2 m will help. The height of the trench, in this case, will be at least 1.5 m.

The formwork box is set on the basis that the width of the slag foundation should be at least 60cm. In this case, the need to raise the shields above ground level by at least 25 cm should be taken into account. To strengthen the structure, internal and external struts are installed on the box, and pieces of pipes are mounted at the communication outlets.

An important point is the correct determination of the position of the metal casings in the wooden box relative to the sewer and water outlets. Failure to comply with this condition will subsequently lead to the need to punch through the foundation tape, which is not permissible for a slag monolith.

It is recommended to lay a knitted reinforcing mesh at the bottom of the foundation. It will allow the base to become a single whole and help distribute the load more evenly. For its manufacture, reinforcing bars with a variable cross-section are used, treated with an anti-corrosion compound to avoid the occurrence of metal rusting. A frame is not installed in the body of the slag foundation in order to improve the compaction of bulk material.

Forming the tape

The most critical stage in the construction of a foundation is the correct filling of slag into the trench and careful compaction of the laid layers.

The first condition is that the thickness of the lower and middle layers should be 20-25 cm, and the upper ones can be increased by 5 cm.
The second condition is to pour plenty of water or cement laitance onto each layer. The liquid is selected depending on the content of binder components in the slag.
The third condition is conscientious compaction of all layers without exception.
The fourth condition is the installation of an upper reinforced belt, which ensures a strong connection between the underground and above-ground parts of the structure.

Impregnation of the slag with water guarantees the best quality of compaction, which helps compact the porous structure of the material. As a result, a fairly strong adhesion of particles occurs. Some craftsmen suggest, in case of low cement content in the slag, pouring the binder directly into the trench, mixed with waste from metallurgical production. Others advise using cement laitance instead of water. Surely both methods have a right to exist.

After laying and compacting each layer, take a break of about an hour to allow the cement to set. Then they begin to fill the next layer.

Without waiting for the last layer of slag to set, a reinforcing mesh is laid on it with the lower rods buried in the backfilled foundation. After this, the structure is left for approximately 12-16 hours. At the last stage, an upper concrete belt with a thickness of at least 20-30 cm is made. To do this, the concrete mixture is poured into the formwork to the design mark with mandatory compaction.

Protection device

After the curing process of the underground structure is completed, waterproofing begins. It should be understood that the durability and reliability of the slag foundation will depend on the quality of protection. It has a porous structure and quickly becomes saturated with moisture, so insulation work must be approached responsibly.

To carefully remove the formwork and gain free access to the surface of the structure, it is necessary to clear the area around its perimeter. This is done when the slopes are too close to the foundation. If there is enough space, you can skip this preparatory stage.

plaster – helps compensate for porosity of surfaces, seals microcracks and covers sinks;
liquid rubber - creates an impenetrable, water-repellent layer, evenly distributed through spraying.

Without additional protection, plaster cannot guarantee complete waterproofness, as it is prone to cracking.

In addition to vertical protection, two horizontal layers of waterproofing should be provided. The first of them is carried out before filling the slag, and the second is laid between the upper concrete belt and the wall. For their construction, in both cases, roll materials are used, the reliability of which is ensured by bitumen mastic. It must be remembered that the junction of vertical and horizontal waterproofing must be airtight.

After erecting the foundation part, you should not immediately load it with the above-ground superstructure. The optimal “rest” period for the structure is at least six months.

semidelov.ru

Slag foundation: materials, tools, construction technology

When planning the construction of any structure, most developers are faced with the problem of the high cost of constructing a foundation. Depending on the type of foundation, the cost of founding a house can range from 15 to 30% of the total cost of the entire building. In order to reduce the cost of building a foundation, many developers are trying to find the best option that will allow significant savings.

Since the slag base is easily destroyed by moisture, when constructing a foundation from this material you should take care of high-quality waterproofing, as well as a drainage system.

In fact, the foundation is not the part of the building on which you should save, since subsequently failure to comply with the foundation construction technology can lead to the complete destruction of the finished building. A slag foundation is one of the cheapest options, but it is worth first considering all the possible risks associated with the construction of such a foundation.

Slag foundation construction technology

Slag foundations are rather specific structures that can only be erected in areas where the groundwater level is extremely low, since the finished foundation made of this material is prone to becoming saturated with water. Even heavy rains can start the process of destruction, therefore, to improve the parameters of the foundation, even during its construction, it is necessary to take care of its waterproofing and arrangement of a drainage system that can remove all moisture from the foundation, preventing it from stagnation. In areas where the groundwater level is high, it is better to immediately abandon this idea, since no waterproofing will save you in this case: the foundation will quickly become covered with cracks, which can lead to subsidence of individual walls of the structure.

Among other things, slag foundations are not recommended to be erected in areas with even minimal seismic activity, since strong soil movements will lead to its destruction. In addition, there is one more “but” - the bearing capacity of the foundation. Of course, in construction practice there are known cases of successful construction of relatively light one-story houses on slag foundations, but it is still believed that such foundations are more acceptable for the construction of temporary buildings, that is, garages, sheds, etc.

Arranging this type of foundation for a residential building is not a very good solution, since the slag can be different and with different amounts of cement inclusions, so each individual foundation made of slag has a different load-bearing capacity, which is very difficult to determine independently. This means that the manufactured foundation of the house will not necessarily be able to support the weight of the entire structure.

In addition, in order to ensure sufficient strength of the foundation, it is necessary to place a monolithic concrete strip on top of the structure, which will be the connecting element between the hardened slag and the structure. Sometimes several rows of brickwork can be used for this purpose. When planning the construction of a slag foundation, you need to figure out exactly what material is needed.

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What kind of slag can be used?

Not every type of slag is suitable for building a foundation. To build a foundation, you can only use heavy waste slag, obtained as a waste product at metal foundries. As a rule, good slag has a crumbly or even dusty structure. The more dust in the slag, the stronger the foundation will be, since when such material is poured with water, it becomes possible to compact it well, thereby reducing the porosity of the final monolithic foundation block.

The slag produced from steel mills has a gray tint. This indicates the presence of cement particles in it. It is very important to find slag that has not been reprocessed. A material that has been recycled completely loses its hardening properties. The thing is that during the recycling of slag, cement is obtained, that is, the remaining waste after such processing will be almost completely devoid of the binding element, which means that the foundation simply will not harden and become a monolithic structure.

An ideal foundation slag must contain at least 30% cement particles in order for the hardening process to be successful.

In addition, it is important to remember that the slag should have the smallest fraction possible, so it must be sieved before backfilling.

Separately, it is worth mentioning that to build a foundation you need to take fresh slag, which was obtained quite recently. Popularly, such slag is called hot, since it is actually warm and even smokes. Only fresh dump slag can harden and acquire load-bearing capacity. The slag produced during the operation of thermal power plants and other similar enterprises must absolutely not be used for the construction of foundations. As a rule, only a foundation made from dump slag is strong enough to support the weight of the building, so any other material option will not work. A distinctive feature of fresh dump slag is its friability.

You also need to remember that work on backfilling slag must be carried out quickly and carefully, avoiding moisture on the bulk material until it is actually backfilled into the foundation trench. The thing is that rain or high humidity outside can cause the slag to harden. It is quite difficult to choose the right heavy dump slag by eye, but you still need to remember that the strength of the entire structure will depend on the quality of the source material.

It is immediately worth noting that it is undesirable to erect structures weighing more than 20 tons on a foundation made of this material, since when backfilling this type of foundation it is impossible to exclude the possibility of the presence of areas with a poorly hardened structure. As a rule, areas with a poorly hardened structure are able to withstand minimal loads and are the first to suffer premature failure.

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Preparing the site for the construction of a slag foundation

So, the construction of a slag foundation begins with preparing the building site. First of all, you need to remove all debris from the site, remove the top 10 cm layer of fertile soil and prepare tools for digging and arranging a trench for the foundation.

To carry out the preparatory work you will need the following materials and tools:

Required materials and tools: shovel, boards, nails and hammer.

Shovel.
Hammer.
Boards.
Nails.
Pipe cuttings.

The depth of laying a slag foundation should be at least 1.2 m. This will significantly reduce the risk of foundation deformation due to soil movements. The depth of the trench should be at least 1.5 m, since it will also be necessary to equip a high-quality cushion. To form the pillow, small crushed stone or river pebbles are used.

The formwork box is made from solid boards. The width between the parallel walls must be at least 70 cm. The formwork box must rise above the soil level by at least 25 cm. Next, internal and external spacers are installed to fix the box. Inside the box you need to place cuttings of pipes, which will later serve as outlets for communications. This is a very important point, since it is not recommended to violate the integrity of the finished foundation.

In addition, at the preparatory stage of work on arranging the foundation, it is necessary to make a reinforcing mesh from slag. To make the mesh, reinforcement with a ribbed surface is taken. The optimal cross-section size is 12 mm.

For tying reinforcement, it is best to use a special tying wire. Before being bundled into reinforcing mesh, reinforcing bars must be carefully treated with anti-corrosion mastic to protect them from rust.

After the reinforcing mesh is completely installed, you can begin filling and compacting the main material - slag. When forming the reinforcing mesh of the future foundation, it is very important to ensure that its outer parts are located 5 cm away from the walls of the formwork box.

In this case, the reinforcement will be securely hidden in the depths of the foundation slab made of slag.

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Working on the formation of a monolithic slag strip

Slag compaction scheme: a) manual compaction; b) compaction using mechanics.

Filling the slag and compacting it is perhaps the most crucial moment in arranging this type of foundation. In order for the slag to harden into a solid base, it must be covered in layers. Each layer will need to be shed with a large amount of water to ensure compaction of the particles and their adhesion.

First, a 25 cm layer of slag is poured around the entire perimeter of the formwork. Next, this layer is thoroughly watered. After this, you need to wait about 1 hour so that the cement particles contained in the slag begin to set. Then the next 25 cm of slag is poured in, which is generously watered and compacted. The next layers are made 30 cm each, watered with water and compacted. It is better to make the above-ground part of the foundation from concrete to ensure reliable adhesion of the future structure to the foundation.

The upper concrete strip should be approximately 20-25 cm. For the second strip, it is necessary to make a separate reinforcing mesh, which is installed on top of the already filled slag foundation, and so that its lower ends extend approximately 15 cm into it. The reinforcing mesh must be installed immediately after the last layer of slag is poured with water.

Next, the foundation must be allowed to settle for at least 12 hours. Only after the specified time has passed, the top layer of concrete is poured. To compact concrete, you should use a vibrating plate. After about 3-5 days, you can begin finishing the foundation, since during this time the slag and top concrete will completely set, forming a monolithic base.

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Finishing a slag foundation

Finishing this type of foundation is no less important a stage than its proper backfill. The thing is that even high-quality slag, the particles of which adhere well to each other, is a fairly porous material. It is predictable that during the period of autumn rains it will be saturated with moisture, the freezing of which will lead to the complete destruction of the foundation in just a few seasons.

High-quality waterproofing is the only way to preserve the foundation. You need to dig trenches along the outer and inner perimeter to gain access first to the formwork and then to the foundation. To carry out waterproofing work, you first need to free the perimeter of the frozen foundation from the formwork. The first layer of waterproofing will be plaster.

Plaster is an excellent material that allows you to form a durable foundation protection from water. This finishing material allows you to compensate for the porosity of the foundation, since after its application all microscopic holes will be completely sealed.

It is best to use liquid rubber as a second layer of waterproofing. Liquid rubber is sprayed along the entire perimeter of the foundation. After the waterproofing layer has hardened, it is necessary to fill the trenches around the new foundation, carefully compacting the laid soil.

moifundament.ru

Cinder block house renovation | BuilderClub

Hello.

Currently we have an old cinder block one-story house in Bryansk. We have a high ground level. (depth of occurrence from 60-70 cm in spring, to 90-1m10cm in summer). The house requires repairs - there are cracks along the facade of the house. Also in the near future - the construction of a second floor (attic). The attic is planned from lightweight materials. Living in winter and summer. There is very little advice on renovating old cinder block houses on construction forums. In connection with the upcoming renovation, I would like to receive advice on a number of the following issues.

The initial plan is to renovate the old foundation of a cinder block house. The material from which the foundation is made is unknown (most likely pouring cement with slag and brick, without the use of reinforcement). Consists of two parts. A second (small) part of the house is attached to the main part of the house. The foundation of the attached part is a letter P adjacent with “legs” to the main foundation. According to documents built in one year, 1961. The size of the main part is “residential” 8 m by 6.6 m. The size of the second part is “non-residential” 3 m by 6.6 m. The house has a wooden extension - a veranda (probably without a solid foundation) since it is heavily “deteriorated” not insulated, brick - “foundation - base” is not strengthened. It is not currently undergoing renovations - we plan to remodel it over time. True, there is a problem - according to the documents, the veranda is indicated - there is a gas pipe attached to it. Attached are photos of the house.

The work is planned as follows: excavation - clearing of the earth around the old foundation of the house (along the entire perimeter without digging under the base of the foundation itself), so far only on the outside of the old foundation for the subsequent production of a reinforcing reinforced belt (color 1 in the picture), formwork and pouring a new foundation – concrete reinforcing belt (brown color in Figure 1). The filling and reinforced belt are planned to be raised to the base. Above ground level, see 50. As such, the base is absent - not clearly pronounced. In the future, the same work is planned on the inside of the house.

1.Does foundation repair work need to be carried out immediately without any interruption? That is, repair work is required immediately along the entire perimeter of the house (outside) - digging and cleaning the old foundation, then making a reinforcing reinforced belt, erecting formwork and pouring concrete? Or is it possible to repair parts of the house (for greater safety)? First side A (all the above works), then B, then C, then D.

2. What distance – step should be between the vertical posts of reinforcement (in Figure 1 – in yellow)?

3. What is the distance - the pitch should be between the horizontal reinforcement posts (in Figure 1 - in green)?

4.What should be the width of the new foundation-belt being poured (shown in blue in Figure 1)? On the outside of the house, later, it is planned to cover it with bricks in one or two rows. We plan to fill it with a width of 20 cm.

5.What diameter of reinforcement should be used to create an armored belt?

6.How to fasten the elements of the armored belt to each other (using tying wire or by welding)?

7. The reinforcing armored belt is planned to be made in one row. Will this be enough, taking into account the fact that later on the outside of the house is planned to be covered with bricks in one or two rows?

8.What brand of concrete mortar should be used to pour a new reinforcing belt-foundation?

9. What size should the support posts be? We are planning 10 by 10 cm, 4 meters high.

10. What is the optimal distance between the support pillars (blue color in Figure 2)?

11. What distance should be from the corner of the house to the support pillar (green in Figure 2)?

12. Should the support pillars be fastened - connected to the armored belt of the old foundation and how (in Figure 2, the connection point is a green circle)?

13. Should the support pillars be fastened - connected to the armored belt along the top (along the perimeter) of the wall of the house (in Figure 2 - pink lines) and how (in Figure 2 the connection point is a blue circle)?

14. How and from what to make an armored belt along the top of the wall of the house? For now, we just need an armored belt without dismantling the existing roof, “tightening” the upper part of the walls of the house along the perimeter.

15. What size reinforcement should the tightening reinforcement belt have around the perimeter of the house? The planned reinforcement size is 10 mm.

16. Is it necessary to connect the support pillars with a tightening armored belt around the perimeter of the house and how (in Figure 2 there is a gray circle)?

Are there any simpler (less expensive) ways to repair the foundation of our house?

Best regards, koleco23.

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Repair of slag walls in the house outside and inside

What exactly is slag?

If after this question medical associations begin to flash in your head, then it’s not a problem: this term is also used in the medical field. But now we are talking about construction. And from the point of view of construction, slag is the solid residue that appears after the completion of the process of smelting metal from ore. Well, or after the coal is burned. There are other options, but in this case we will not dwell on them. If we talk about what building materials are made from slag, then these are usually tiles and bricks.

Also, you are probably familiar (well, or I will introduce you now) with such a building stone as cinder block. This is a small, let’s say, slab that is prepared using slag concrete mortar. The binding element in cinder blocks is cement.

So, a small educational program has been completed. Now that you have a general idea of the subject, you can move on to a more practical part. The point is this: sometimes, already in the process of building a house, developers turn a blind eye to the quality of the slag that is chosen for the walls. Like, there is cement, it will connect everything. This is where the mistake lies. Slag is not just a filler. It affects both the properties of lime and the properties of cement. Hence, as one well-known Duchess said, the moral: this is a high-flying bird (in the sense that the slag must be of high quality).

Now here's what. Cinder block walls and other cinder walls can behave differently over the years, meaning they can suffer varying degrees of complexity and severity of damage over time. Therefore, before repairing slag walls, you need to carefully evaluate how worn the material is. Then it will be easy to choose repair options.

What can happen to cinder concrete walls?

Let's start with something simpler and less extensive. Let's say you have a house with cinder walls, and over time the plaster begins to peel off, which will require repairs. We already discussed how to do it once in an article - repairing plaster walls in separate places, I advise you to read it. This can happen both externally and internally. What to do? For external repairs, strengthening rather than restoration work may be recommended. It seems all this is clear, but how to strengthen a house made of slag? The principle of siding is quite suitable for such a case.

But indoors it would be a good idea to use the method of covering with plasterboard sheets. This will hide the defects, and the slag wall will become smoother. At your discretion and taste, you can use other types of slabs for interior decoration. Now it’s up to you to choose which method to carry out repairs inside a cinder block house.

So, now about the cracks. The matter in this situation will be somewhat more complicated and painstaking than ordinary finishing work on the slag from the inside. If you still don’t want to change your home, build a new one and do similar pirouettes, then we take up the tool (not the head) and begin decisive action.

You can start repairing walls by repairing the foundation. Longer, but also more serious. You can arrange reinforced belts (they must be reinforced) around the entire perimeter of the house and then plaster them over a metal mesh. And if you still carry out this procedure in combination with strengthening the foundation, then the result will be doubly reliable: “palaces made of slag concrete” will last for many, many years.

It almost slipped my mind: there are also structures made from bulk slag! They differ from those already listed in that they do not have the usual seams. What to do if they are repaired? For example, if the plaster is falling off and cracks appear, you can pierce the plaster with nails, then pump a cement solution into the cracks under pressure. Next, create a kind of wooden formwork, and then cement it.

Repairing walls in an apartment “overtakes” almost everyone. And how could it be otherwise: cracks in the walls, falling off plaster and other “little things” not only indicate the dilapidation of the living space, but are simply depressing in appearance. Therefore, combat readiness number one is the first thing you need to fearlessly start this exciting process. And the result will certainly please you. Imagine, the walls will become smooth, you’ll select the finishing – it’s like moving into a new house! In addition, they repaired the slag house with their own hands. Double respect (respect, of course). Now you can take a break and enjoy. Remember, the hobbits said: “We sit on the field of victory and taste its well-deserved fruits!” Although you may not remember the quotes. It is important that you really succeed in your intended serious business. Good luck!

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How to repair a slag house? Utility room com - how to build a house and renovate it

How to repair a slag house?

Cinder block houses built in the 50s - 70s of the last century are beginning to show cracks. These cracks can appear for various reasons. After all, our parents had nowhere to live, so they really wanted to have their own home. They began to build housing from what was available to them, thinking: “enough for our lifetime.” During construction, they had to save on literally everything: on cement, on the foundation, on the quality of building materials and the professional skills of specialists. Concepts such as reinforcement and monolith were then generally at the level of science fiction.

What can be done with such cinder block houses? After all, not everyone can afford the construction of a new house, but living in a house in which the plaster is crumbling, the foundation is collapsing, and the walls are cracking is quite unpleasant, embarrassing and even dangerous.

In this case, there are three solutions:

Sell the old house and use the proceeds to start building a new home.
Break everything down and build a new house.
Make a major overhaul using modern construction technologies.

Home renovation should begin with an assessment of its condition. To do this, you can call specialists who will inspect the house and make a decision on the feasibility of repairs and their effectiveness.

There is now a lot of information available on how to repair cracks using staples and plastering. Of course, you can throw dust in your eyes and cover up the crack. But this will not strengthen the house, and after a while the cracks will appear again, and you will practically throw your money away. What should you do if a crack appears every year and the wall leans? Deviation from the vertical can be checked using a plumb line. In this case, it is urgent to do a major overhaul of the cinder block house.

For old houses that are built from loose cinder concrete blocks, in addition to repairing the foundation, it is also recommended to repair the walls using several reinforced, monolithic belts around the entire perimeter of the house, which then need to be plastered over a metal mesh. Such measures, combined with foundation repairs, can significantly extend the life of an old cinder block or stone house.

This problem is occurring everywhere today due to aging houses.

Reinforcing belts are installed, as a rule, along the top of the house (slightly above the window openings) and in several rows along the entire perimeter. It is imperative to use reinforcement with a length of at least six meters, which is tied or welded together to achieve a single monolithic structure.

An additional reinforcing belt is installed under the window openings.

Reinforcement with a diameter of 12-14 mm.
Reinforcing mesh, which is rolled out and attached to the walls horizontally to provide the greatest reinforcing effect.
Sand-cement mixture.

To achieve a more rigid structure, you can make a recess in a brick pillar with a grinder for laying reinforcement. This hole is subsequently sealed with mortar.

Having solved all the problems regarding how to repair a cinder house competently and efficiently, you can begin plastering it. This should be done according to the beacons, which will significantly save you time and give the house a good appearance.

When repairing a cinder block house, a mistake that is often made is that the reinforcing mesh is used only for the walls, and the brick pillars are plastered without it. Because of this, the plaster may come off over time. The mesh should be attached to cinder block walls with simple nails using plastic washers, and in areas where there is brickwork - with dowels.

After plastering, the walls of the house are puttied with facade putty and then covered with facade paint.

Many people are also interested in the question: is it possible to add a second floor after renovating an old cinder block house? Yes, you can. But only if certain conditions are met.

The main ones are:

To repair the foundation, it is imperative to use a double-sided reinforced concrete cage. The clips must be connected to each other with anchors.
To provide reliable support for the second floor, brick support columns should be made in the cinder walls or metal support pipes (usually 100x100 square) should be installed in them. Better yet, use both posts and pipes.
Along the perimeter of the house it is necessary to build a reinforced belt on top of the cinder block wall. The thickness of this belt should be at least 10-15 centimeters. The support for this belt is provided by brick pillars or metal support pipes built into the walls.
The construction of the second floor should be made of lightweight materials (lightweight solid expanded clay concrete block "Thermolux", gas silicate) and reinforcement with masonry mesh should be used.
A second reinforced belt approximately 5-8 centimeters thick is constructed on top of the second floor.
The ceiling of the second floor should also be lightweight.

One of the reasons for the appearance of cracks in the walls of a house is damage or lack of blind area. These cracks appear especially often on the walls of houses with gable roofs. Under different sides of the foundation of a house equipped with a gable roof, when the blind area is broken, different amounts of precipitation fall. More water flows from those sides where the roof slopes are located. Consequently, the soil under the foundation softens more and it subsides faster than on the side where there are no roof slopes.

As a result of such uneven subsidence of the foundation, those walls that are located on the side of the roof slopes sag more. Ultimately, cracks appear along the walls of the house located on the gable side.

Based on materials from the site: http://podsobka.com

fix-builder.ru

slag house sealing cracks and insulation

I ask you to help me deal with the repair of an old cinder-filled house. The house was built in 1972. for sale. The corners of the house and the interior walls are made of brick; the outer wall is made of slag; the inside is plastered with lime mortar; the outside is plastered and stuffed with fur coat. Wall thickness 43cm. The poor blind area was filled with dust and the house sank and cracks appeared along the walls (photo) There were more cracks in two opposite corners. The soil under the house is sand and at a depth of a meter and a half there is white clay

Last year I dug out the foundation. he is in terrible condition. (photo) I made a reinforced concrete belt around the entire perimeter. In the corner that sagged, a belt 0.5 m wide and 1 m deep. in the opposite direction, I dug a foundation for an extension and tied everything together with reinforcement. I made an insulated blind area 1 meter wide with drainage. Cracks are no longer growing inside the walls, which have been in excellent condition for a year now.

I am planning to complete an extension to enlarge the bathroom; the wall is made of aerated blocks, 30 cm thick.

I want to tighten the walls of the house with reinforcement, one belt above the windows 16mm and the second below the windows, two layers of 10mm. Stretch the metal mesh and plaster with cement mortar. Insulate with polystyrene foam.

1 What layer of polystyrene foam is needed to insulate a wall? 43cm slag and 30cm brick (north side of the house). The house is located in Ukraine, Volinsk region, the city of Vladimir-Volynsky.

2 You can build an extension from 30cm gas block and how to insulate it. The extension is needed to level the roof (when I re-cover it) and to enlarge the bathroom.

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After plastering along the beacons, the walls of the house are puttied with facade putty and painted with facade paint.

The photo shows the same fragment of the wall after two years of use.

Is it possible to build a second floor after renovating an old cinder block house?

Yes, it's possible! But subject to a number of conditions and requirements.

The main ones are:

Repair of the foundation must be carried out using a double-sided reinforced concrete clip, and the clips must be connected to each other with anchors;
For reliable support for the second floor, the slag walls must have either brick support pillars (as in our case) or metal support pipes (usually 100 x 100 square) installed during the repair of the walls. Or better yet, both;
It is mandatory to construct an armored belt on top of the cinder block wall along the entire perimeter of the house, including all load-bearing walls. The thickness of the armored belt is at least 10 - 15 cm. The support for the armored belt is brick pillars and metal support pipes built into the cinder block walls;
The construction of the second floor is carried out from lightweight materials (gas silicate, lightweight solid expanded clay concrete block "Thermolux") using masonry mesh reinforcement;
a second armored belt 5-8 cm thick is constructed on top of the second floor.
The ceiling of the second floor is also constructed in a lightweight manner.

What exactly is slag?

Now here's what. Cinder block walls and other cinder walls can behave differently over the years, meaning they can suffer varying degrees of complexity and severity of damage over time. Therefore, before you commit slag wall repair, you need to carefully evaluate how worn the material is. Then it will be easy to choose repair options.

What can happen to cinder concrete walls?

Let's start with something simpler and less extensive. Let's say you have a house with cinder walls, and over time the plaster begins to peel off, which will require repairs. We already discussed how to do it once in an article - repairing plaster walls in separate places, I advise you to read it. This can happen both externally and internally. What to do? For external repairs, strengthening rather than restoration work may be recommended. The principle of siding is quite suitable for such a case. But indoors it would be a good idea to use the method of covering with plasterboard sheets. This will hide the defects and the walls will become smoother. At your discretion and taste, you can use other types of slabs for interior decoration. It's up to you to choose.

So, now about the cracks. The matter in this situation will be somewhat more complicated and painstaking. If you still don’t want to change your home, build a new one and do similar pirouettes, then we take up the tool (not the head) and begin decisive action. You can start repairing walls by repairing the foundation. Longer, but also more serious. You can arrange reinforced belts (they must be reinforced) around the entire perimeter of the house and then plaster them over a metal mesh. And if you still carry out this procedure in combination with strengthening the foundation, then the result will be doubly reliable: “palaces made of slag concrete” will last for many, many years.

Repairing walls in an apartment “overtakes” almost everyone. And how could it be otherwise: cracks in the walls, falling off plaster and other “little things” not only indicate the dilapidation of the living space, but are simply depressing in appearance. Therefore, combat readiness number one is the first thing you need to fearlessly start this exciting process. And the result will certainly please you. Imagine, the walls will become smooth, you’ll select the finishing – it’s like moving into a new house! Moreover, they could and did everything with their own hands. Double respect (respect, of course). Now you can take a break and enjoy. Remember, the hobbits said: “We sit on the field of victory and taste its well-deserved fruits!” Although you may not remember the quotes. It is important that you really succeed in your intended serious business. Good luck!

Repairing cinder walls in a house outside and inside - what can happen to cinder concrete walls?

Repair of slag walls. Detailed instructions for repairing slag walls, necessary tools, skills, useful tips and secrets..