When renovating a bathroom, the most important step is the pipework. It is advised to make a different diagram, taking into account the features of the apartment and the position of the devices. All work can be done with your own hands, but it is important to have some knowledge in the field of plumbing.

Plumbing installation involves the installation of water supply channels in the bathroom, toilet or kitchen for consumption. The main function of the wiring is to supply water to the point of use and remove the used liquid through the sewer system. The layout of the pipes depends on the area of the apartment in the new building and the number of residents.

Methods for laying pipes in an apartment:

Open laying;
Closed system.

In case of open installation, the bathroom is always accessible if necessary. For such wiring, steel or copper pipes are used to carry out a complex circuit. But the best option for water supply and sewerage pipes is considered to be the use of metal-plastic elements. They can be connected with press fittings, creating a sealed joint. But using plastic or metal pipes is expensive.

Closed pipe distribution is quite popular due to space saving, because the pipes are hidden in the wall. But this option will require a special calculation of work and a planning project. For the hidden system, polypropylene is used, which is easily joined by hot pressing.

The rules for installing a closed system do not allow communications to be laid in a load-bearing wall. For such work, solid pipes are used.

To supply hot water, you should put a corrugated sleeve on the pipe. This is done taking into account the fact that when heated, the plastic expands. The sleeve will allow the pipe to have some free space.

Correct layout of plumbing fixtures

After the location of the bathroom has been determined, it is necessary to purchase equipment and study the dimensions of the structure. After this, it is worth making notes on the installation of the water supply system. Next, a wiring diagram is created. To properly route pipes, a number of rules must be followed.

An overview of sewer pipes made of various materials, a description of their varieties, characteristics, advantages and disadvantages, as well as other useful information in our next article:

Proper pipe installation includes:

Minimum of intersecting elements;
With an open system, water supply and sewerage systems must be laid as close as possible;
Free access to all connections should be provided at the planning stage;
It is better to install the main pipes on the floor, and the outlet pipes – vertically upward, without oblique lines.

To do the wiring yourself, you should follow the rule of simplicity. The system should not be complicated in any way, and the number of connections should be kept to a minimum. In the absence of knowledge, it is better to make the water supply system an open type.

With a closed system, after creating a plan, they proceed to creating niches in the wall and installing the pipeline. To distribute water in the bathroom, you can use both connections from the riser to the consumer, and vice versa. To connect the pipes you will need a hot pressing welding machine.

It is not possible to dismantle the connection. If necessary, the section is cut out and replaced with a new piece of pipe.

It is worth considering that water distribution includes not only the pipeline. In addition to the plumbing itself, such as a washing machine, you will need to purchase water meters, shut-off valves, and filters. You will also need reducers and pressure regulators.

The sequence of planning the water distribution in the apartment

First, a plan is written that takes into account the consumption of materials and the dimensions of all tap outlets. They also indicate where equipment, pipes, and wiring will be located. Plumbing units in the apartment depend on the central water supply. Therefore, there are certain lessons in selecting devices.

Component stages of the plan:

Selection of materials;
Creation of a hot and cold water distribution diagram;
System sizing;
Preparation of tools;
Dismantling the old water pipe.

Materials include polypropylene, metal-plastic and copper. It is important here to weigh all the positive and negative aspects in order to make the right choice. When using polypropylene you will have to master the skill. For metal-plastic, press fittings can be used.

Piping in apartments is difficult due to the small size of the bathroom. That is why preference is given to the most compact option.

There are serial or parallel wiring diagrams. It all depends on the type of apartment building. The sequential option is suitable for apartments with stable water pressure. But it is best to choose the collector method, because it allows you to regulate the water pressure to each water intake source.

Stages of distributing water in an apartment with your own hands

To begin with, a plan is created that takes into account the placement of nodes and their dimensions. Next you need to get rid of the old water supply. In a new building, the plumbing unit has to be developed anew. In older apartments, the existing bathroom is used as a basis, but it is better to change the system.

Collector wiring provides for connecting each device separately.

When dismantling, you must first shut off the water supply to the apartment. Next, all fittings and equipment are removed. It is better to take out all the equipment so that there is a place to work. If there are meters, they should also be removed. You can supply hot water from a water heater.

Steps for connecting pipework:

First, we assemble the pipes on the floor. It is important to observe all dimensions and seal joints. We connect the taps.
Installation of pipes in certain sections. Next we install the risers to the mixers. To do this, screw the tee onto the two ends of the cut pipe. A fitting must be secured to the end of each perpendicular pipe.
Next you need to hide all communications in the wall. But remember that connections must be freely available. They hide the wiring, joints, quadruple.

For an apartment, it is best to use a water supply collector. This is a compact option that is suitable for unstable pressure conditions. Suitable fittings are suitable for hot water supply.

How to change plumbing fixtures with your own hands (video)

Piping is a necessary activity when renovating a bathroom. It is important to correctly position communications so that access and use of them is as comfortable as possible. That is why it is worth taking a responsible approach to each stage of the work.

Examples of pipe layout in a toilet (photo)

In most cases, bathroom renovation begins with preliminary planning and drawing up an estimate, which allows you to determine the total cost of the work. Many people prefer to hire workers and this leads to an increase in financial costs, although work such as installing plumbing in the bathroom can be done independently, significantly saving the budget. This type of work is not complicated and can be carried out by a person who does not have the necessary experience. Installing plumbing fixtures in the bathroom yourself requires only the necessary tools and theoretical knowledge of installation technology.

Necessary tool

If the surface of the room is already finished with ceramic tiles and the plumbing in the bathroom is routed to the installation locations of consumers, then before starting work you need to prepare the necessary tools. From the tool we need:

hammer drill or impact drill;
laser or water level;
drill for ceramic tiles;
concrete drill of the required diameter;
dowels for fastening plumbing elements to the wall;
hammer;
Phillips screwdriver or screwdriver with the required attachment;
marker;
masking tape;
construction knife.

Before placing plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, you need to study all the fastening elements and the installation sequence, which is usually indicated in the instructions for each product. All consumables are usually included with each product, and only after studying them and preparing the necessary tools can you begin plumbing work in the bathroom.

Bathroom installation

When making any type of renovation in the bathroom, the layout of the plumbing fixtures in the bathroom is designed by determining the location of the bathroom itself, since this is the most massive item and takes up the most free space. The placement of plumbing fixtures in the bathroom also begins with this element, since in most small rooms, after installing a washbasin and toilet, the bathtub bowl may simply not fit or damage other elements during installation.

The installation process itself is extremely simple, but requires adherence to a certain sequence. Today there are a huge number of bathtub models made of different materials and with different dimensions, but the plumbing connection diagram in the bathroom is the same for all products. The first step is to carefully bring the product into the room and install it at a distance of 50-60 cm from the wall in order to ensure free access from all sides. If the bathroom has a hole to protect against overflow, then first of all we install it and lower the pipe to the lower drain siphon.

Before you do plumbing in the bathroom, make sure that the bathroom you purchased is equipped with a drain siphon, all the necessary pipes and seals, as well as instructions for their installation. If this is not included in the kit, then it is recommended to purchase all the necessary elements in the same store in order to properly connect the plumbing in the bathroom.

Next, install the lower siphon and connect it to the sewerage system; for this it is best to use a corrugated hose. Then, before placing the plumbing in the bathroom, we check the tightness of the connection of the lower siphon, to do this, close the drain hole and pour a little water into the bathroom, about ¼ of its total volume. Place a dry cloth under the siphon and wait 15-20 minutes. If the rag is dry, then open the hole and drain the water, simultaneously checking the entire drain line for leaks.

Today, almost all manufacturers of bathtub models, washbasins and toilets try to adhere to established dimensional standards so that the placement of plumbing fixtures in the bathroom can be conveniently calculated. Looking at the diagram below, you can make a preliminary layout of the total area, since almost all models of different plumbing elements rarely go beyond the dimensions indicated below.

Bathroom grounding

It is important to remember that before replacing the plumbing in the bathroom, it is necessary to provide a grounding system for cast iron and metal bathtubs. Plumbing fixtures made of porcelain or acrylic do not require such grounding.

Replacing plumbing in a bathroom necessarily involves installing a grounding system, especially if various electrical appliances are installed in the room. If the house has a potential equalization system, then the new plumbing is connected to this system. If there is no such system, then before changing the plumbing in the bathroom, you need to invite an electrician who will give advice or install a grounding system according to the diagram below.

Installation of different types of washbasins

The installation location of the washbasin largely depends on the type of its design, size and location of the communication systems. Before installing plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, you need to familiarize yourself with its dimensions, take into account generally accepted standards and the average height of each family member. The most common mistake is when they first lay pipes in the wall, and then decide how to hide the plumbing in the bathroom and try to choose a washbasin or toilet of the desired design.

It is important to remember that first you need to purchase all the elements of plumbing, study its dimensions, and determine its location in the room. Then a diagram of the placement of plumbing fixtures in the bathroom is drawn up and pipes are laid according to the resulting diagram.

Today, there are several of the most common models of washbasins, which differ in type of installation and design. These models include:

wall-mounted washbasins installed on the wall through special holes in the bowl or on special brackets;
washbasins with a cabinet or “moidodyr”, which is also part of the furniture interior;
a washbasin installed on a special pedestal, also called a “tulip”.

Below are the standard dimensions of bathroom fixtures that need to be taken into account when planning the space.

It is important to remember that before arranging plumbing fixtures in the bathroom, you must take into account the type of sewer system if it is not possible to redesign it.

For example, wall-mounted washbasins are designed for a sewer outlet in the wall, while products of the “tulip” or “moidodyr” type can be installed with a sewer outlet coming from the floor. The installation should be carried out in such a way that it provides free access to all main communication nodes, making it possible to carry out plumbing repairs in the bathroom or maintenance.

Toilet installation

As we have already said, the installation of plumbing in the bathroom largely depends on the sewage system. Very often, when planning a room, many are tied specifically to the sewer inlets, which significantly limits the possibility of a complete layout. The first thing you need to do is study the layout and features of the sewer system, and only then plan the location of the plumbing in the bathroom.

Sewage pipes are divided into three types according to the method of placement in the room:

built into the floor, with vertical receivers;
installed in the wall with a horizontal receiver;
open corner installation with inclined receiver.

For each of the listed schemes, you need to buy a special toilet model, as shown in the diagram below.

If the size of the room and financial resources allow, then the placement of plumbing fixtures in the bathroom should be planned in such a way that the entire sewer line can be hidden behind a specially created niche on one wall of the room, rather than placing all the fixtures in different corners. When carrying out plumbing work in the bathroom, the best option for the bathroom would be to install a toilet with installation; these models can significantly save space; they are not tied to the location of the sewer neck, since a corrugated pipe is used to connect them. You can learn more about this model in the video below.

It is important to remember that installing plumbing in the bathroom with your own hands will allow you to significantly save your budget, do all the work with maximum quality and gain invaluable experience that will come in handy many times in life.

12173 0 0

Pipes in the bathroom: selection, replacement, problems and solutions

Pipes in the bathroom and toilet create a lot of problems when renovating a new building and a secondary apartment. In this article I will tell you what materials are best to use for water distribution and drainage, how to properly install risers and supply lines, as well as how to solve current (excuse the unintentional pun) problems with water supply and sewerage pipes.

Material selection

Water pipes

The current market offers the following types of water pipes:

Steel without anti-corrosion coating;
Galvanized steel;
Stainless steel corrugated;
Copper;
Polypropylene (without reinforcement, with reinforcement with aluminum foil and chopped fiberglass);
Metal-plastic;
Polyethylene.

Ordinary polyethylene can be used only in cold water due to its limited heat resistance. For DHW distribution, its modifications are used - cross-linked polyethylene PE-X and thermally modified PE-RT.

The photo shows a heat-resistant PE-RT pipe.

How to distribute the water supply in a private house with its own boiler or water heater is a matter of personal preference. I use polypropylene on one floor, metal-plastic on the other, and both materials do not cause the slightest complaints.

But in a city apartment with centralized hot water supply, I strongly advise using only metal pipes, preferably resistant to corrosion.

What is this instruction related to?

There is a high probability of force majeure during the operation of the hot water supply system.

First, a little theory.

According to current SNiP, the temperature of any utility line in a residential building should not exceed 95 degrees Celsius. The working pressure in the DHW system is 3-7 kgf/cm2. In summer, the hot water supply is fed from the supply line of the heating main; in winter, when it reaches 80-90 degrees, it must switch to the return line.

At the peak of cold weather, the supply coolant temperature can reach 150 degrees. Water does not boil only due to increased pressure.

However, in some cases the standard values of temperature and pressure can be significantly exceeded.

If the mechanic forgets or is too lazy to switch the hot water supply to return in winter, and at the peak of cold weather the water temperature will noticeably exceed the boiling point;
During summer tests of heating mains for density, the input valves of the elevator unit are usually closed. If they are faulty or, again, not closed by a careless housing and communal services worker, you can expect trouble: during testing, the pressure rises to 12 atmospheres or more;
Spring temperature tests (“it got warmer outside, and they turned the heating on full blast, you idiots!”) should also be accompanied by turning off the hot water supply. In theory. In practice, what if they forget?
Finally, don’t forget about water hammer. If fast fill any circuit with water or stop circulation in it, then at a certain moment the pressure at the front of the water flow can reach an impressive 25 - 30 kgf/cm2.

And now - bad news: all are plastic and are designed for a pressure of 10 - 25 kgf/cm2 at a temperature of 20 C or 5 - 9 kgf/cm2 at a temperature of 90C. The combination of high temperatures and pressure means either destruction of the water supply or a sharp reduction in the service life of the pipe.

Now - a few nuances related to the choice of a specific type of metal pipe:

Copper pipe on solder joints and corrugated stainless steel on compression fittings require no maintenance. Accordingly, it is possible to lay them in a wall or screed. Installation of black steel pipes into the wall is extremely undesirable: in concrete they rust noticeably faster;

Galvanized pipe is mounted only on threads. When welding, the zinc coating completely burns out: zinc boils at 900 degrees, and steel melts at 1300 C. During installation, precise adjustment of the dimensions of the pipes and cutting a large number of threads is required;

Joining galvanized steel by welding is a gross violation of all norms.

Captain Obviousness suggests: sealing pipes in the case of galvanization is possible, but undesirable. Even correctly assembled threads can leak under deforming loads (for example, due to the destruction of a cast iron threaded fitting). It is better that all communications with serviced connections are available for repair.

The corrugated stainless pipe allows you to completely forget about all the problems with fitting sizes. It bends with a radius equal to the diameter of the liner, which allows you to bypass any obstacle without the use of fittings. The only drawback of stainless steel is the high price per linear meter compared to steel or galvanized (with a nominal diameter of 15 mm - 250 rubles versus 70 and 110, respectively).

Sewerage

How to lay a sewer comb (intra-apartment sewerage)?

I recommend using the most affordable material for this purpose - gray bell-shaped PVC pipes. They combine low cost with a very pleasant set of performance qualities from a consumer point of view:

PVC tolerates heat up to 80 C;
It is resistant to acids and alkalis, which allows the use of aggressive detergents for cleaning plumbing;
The service life of plastic sewerage is estimated at at least 50 years versus 25 for cast iron pipes;
Installation of plastic pipes does not require special skills or expensive tools and can be done even by a mentally retarded teenager.

The only drawback of plastic - poor acoustic characteristics - only appears when it is used for installing sewer risers. Thanks to the small thickness of the pipe walls, you will be privy to all the secrets of the digestion of your neighbors above. Fortunately, the problem is easily solved by soundproofing the riser with any rolled material or by assembling a box filled with insulation around it.

Dismantling

Replacing bathroom pipes in secondary housing begins with dismantling the old water supply connections and sewer comb. How to approach this work?

Dismantling the water supply begins with dismantling the drains after the valves at the entrance to the apartment or house.

Close the valve;
We open the tap on the appropriate water to make sure that the valve is working;
We drive the locknut along the long thread of the drive;

If the paint prevents you from disassembling the threaded connection, preheat the thread with a hair dryer, blowtorch or gas torch.

We clear the thread from the winding and, following the locknut, we drive the coupling;
We separate the squeegee and the liner in different directions;
Holding the valve with the second key, we unscrew the squeegee from its body.

If you have old screw valves, it is better to replace them with modern ball valves. To do this, of course, you will have to shut off the water supply risers for a short time.

The next stage is dismantling the mixers. removed like this:

The union nuts on the cams (eccentrics) are unscrewed;
The slippers are unscrewed from the couplings or corners on the eyeliners. As a tool, I usually use pliers inserted inside the shoe.

The method of dismantling the kitchen faucet depends on the type of connections:

Rigid liners are disassembled at the ends in the manner described above;

For flexible hoses, simply unscrew the union nuts. It is advisable to replace the hoses themselves after dismantling: their service life rarely exceeds 5 years.

The brackets fixing the eyeliners on the wall can be removed:

Using a grinder, cutting off the dowel. As a rule, plumbing installers use a construction gun to install them;
Chisel, hammer and pliers. The chisel pries the bracket, partially pulling out the dowel; then it swings and is removed with pliers.

After disconnecting from the wall, all that remains is to remove the liner from the holes in the walls. If it is impossible to remove it entirely, the pipe can be cut with a grinder or a hacksaw.

Cast iron sewers are dismantled, starting from the end farthest from the riser. Pipes and fittings are alternately removed from the sockets. The caulked socket connection is disassembled as follows:

First, use a narrow, strong screwdriver and a hammer to destroy the seal of the socket;
Then from there, using the same screwdriver, the heel is removed - strands of organic fiber tarred or impregnated with bitumen;
Then the sewerage element is rotated in the socket and is pulled out of it with a rocking motion.

The bell of the cross or tee is thoroughly cleaned of debris and plugged. As a rule, a rubber sealing collar and a plug with a diameter of 110 mm are used for this purpose. The plug will prevent wastewater and sewer odors from entering the bathroom.

Installation

How to install new pipes in the bathroom?

Water pipes

If your plans include replacing sections of water supply risers, then it is very useful to know one subtlety: there is not the slightest point in changing risers from floor to ceiling. Risers leak primarily in the ceiling. If so, before starting work it is worth talking with your neighbors about joint repairs.

As a rule, the diameter of the risers and their condition do not allow threading them by hand. The simplest and most obvious solution is to replace them with a new steel pipe with welded joints. The simplest, but not the most durable: steel rusts and becomes overgrown with deposits.

It would be more reasonable to replace sections of the risers with corrugated stainless steel: unlike copper, it will not cause you depression due to its cost and is much easier to install than galvanizing on threads.

For installation, short threaded pipes are welded at both ends of the remaining riser. Then fittings are installed on them - adapters from pipe threads to stainless steel. To seal threads, I usually use plumber's linen impregnated with any quick-drying paint or silicone sealant.

The entry points of the riser into the ceiling can be made more neat by using plastic decorative covers for the pipes in the bathroom. They will also be very useful when installing a stretch or suspended ceiling.

At the level of future connections, each riser is broken with a tee with a transition to a diameter of 15 mm (this is the size that water supply connections are usually laid).

The hot water supply line is always located above the cold water supply line. This is necessary so that the flow of warm air rising from the hot pipe does not heat the cold water.

Fitting connections are made extremely simply:

The union nut on the fitting is loosened;
Then the end of the pipe is inserted into it until it stops;
The nut is tightened with moderate force.

After the tee, the following are mounted sequentially:

Ball valve;
Coarse filter. It will prevent sand and scale from clogging the filler valve in the toilet tank or damaging ceramic shut-off and control valves (faucets and cartridge in a single-lever mixer);
Optional - water meter.

The water distribution to the mixers begins from the water meter. The connection to the wall-mounted faucet in the bathroom ends with a water socket or a pair of corners hidden in a groove. Grooving is always carried out before installing the bathtub, washbasin and before laying the tiles.

How to remove an elastic pipe from a wall? It’s as simple as that: hammer several nails into the plaster at an oblique angle and bend them, pressing the eyeliner to the bottom of the groove. Make sure that the caps do not protrude above the plaster when sealing: they can leave untidy rusty streaks on the wall.

How to seal the corners under a wall-mounted faucet under tiles? At one time I solved this problem like this:

The location of the tiles was chosen in such a way that the seam between the two tiles fell in the middle of the threads;
A semicircular hole was marked and cut out in each of the tiles. For cutting, it is better to use a diamond disc rather than an abrasive disc for stone: it cuts tiles much faster and does not overheat when rubbing against extremely hard material.

In the case of corrugated stainless steel, open installation of pipes in the bathroom and toilet requires their fastening to the wall with clips at intervals of no more than half a meter. Pipes, as we remember, have excellent flexibility. It is difficult to break through them, but bending or crushing them is quite possible.

Sewerage

How to change the sewer yourself?

We have already dealt with the dismantling of old pipes. The new comb is assembled following just a few simple rules:

A pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is laid with a constant slope of 3.5 cm per linear meter, with a diameter of 110 mm - with a slope of 2 cm/meter;
The comb must be attached in increments not exceeding 10 of its diameters. Otherwise, over time, the pipe will sag, forming counterslopes. They cause constant blockages due to accumulating fatty deposits and suspended matter;
For fastening to a flat wall it is better to use clips, for an uneven wall - adjustable clamps;

The diameter of the comb can only increase as the waste flows. Any narrowing guarantees blockages;
A comb with a diameter of 50 mm should fit into the 110 mm adapter behind the toilet approximately at the level of the middle of the pipe. Otherwise, when the toilet is flushed, some of the water may flow into the bathtub;

To connect the bathtub, it is better to use an oblique outlet with a side outlet directed in the direction of flow of the drains. Otherwise, when volleying water from the bathtub and using the kitchen sink, the comb may overflow;
All plumbing fixtures must be connected to the sewer with completely sealed connections. Otherwise, the enchanting aromas of sewage will begin to enter the apartment, bypassing the water seal in it;
When cutting pipes to size, be sure to remove the outer bevel and burrs. The chamfer will help connect the pipe to the socket with minimal effort. The burrs will subsequently catch debris and may cause a blockage.

To cut plastic sewerage, it is most convenient to use a grinder with any cutting wheel. Take the trouble to put on a gauze bandage: the finest vinyl dust is clearly not good for your lungs.

A grinder is the ideal tool for cutting vinyl sewer pipes.

Operation: questions and answers

How to replace a faulty valve on a steel line with your own hands?

Shut off the corresponding water supply riser.

In houses built in the 80s and later, hot water risers are connected by jumpers on the upper floor, 2 to 4 pieces each. The jumpers ensure continuous circulation and constant heating of the heated towel rails. As a rule, to discharge water, you have to turn off all hot water risers at the entrance.

Disassemble and remove the squeegee. The algorithm of actions is described by me above;
After making sure that the water has drained, close the valve completely and remove the knob from it. The rod and wing will prevent you from unscrewing the valve body: they may rest against the wall. If the wrapped stem still interferes, unscrew the valve head;

Unscrew the valve from the water supply on the side of the riser;
Clean the thread from the old winding;
Rewind it and screw on a new valve. Tighten it with moderate force: brass threads are easily damaged;
Reassemble the assembly in reverse order.

The difference in length between the old and new valve up to 5 mm is usually compensated by a coupling. If the difference is greater, the squeegee will have to be replaced with a new one.

What to do with condensation on cold water?

Make sure there are no leaking faucets or toilet cisterns above you or your neighbors. The main reason for the appearance of condensation is the constant cooling of the pipe by the influx of colder water from the main;

Leaking faucets are the main cause of condensation.

Check the ventilation in the bathroom and toilet. Excessive humidity can be a result of a ventilation duct clogged with debris or poor draft in it. Often the problem of condensation is solved by installing an exhaust fan in the ventilation duct.

What can be done if water leaks in the outlet after the valve?

It may leak:

Burnt out or rotted winding under the locknut;
The rusted thread of the drive itself.

In the first case, it is enough to rewind the locknut. The method is described by me above. In the second, it is necessary to replace the drive with a new one.

How to remove sewer smell in the bathroom?

Check the tightness of connections between plumbing fixtures and comb sockets. Close all vents. For this purpose, you can use sealing cuffs or any available materials - polyethylene foam, foam rubber, tape, and so on.

What to do about the smell from the pipes in the bathroom that appears during the cold season?

The reason for its appearance is the lack of natural ventilation of the sewer riser due to the snow cap frozen on it. To melt this cap, just go up to the roof and pour a bucket of hot water into the riser.

How to supply cold water to a washing machine?

If the machine is located near the bathtub, a three-way tap and a so-called extension (pipe with external and internal threads) of the same length are placed between the water sockets or corners and eccentrics of the mixer. If the washing machine is located close to the water supply risers, an outlet for connecting it can be obtained by replacing the coupling on the outlet with a tee size DN 15.

What to do if the sewer comb is clogged?

If the water does not go away at all, a sewer cable is used for cleaning. It is supplied to the site of the blockage under tension during continuous rotation.

If the water drains slowly, you can flush the drain with hot water, letting it flow in a thin stream and gradually increasing the pressure. The fat plug, which usually causes the comb to become clogged, is washed away in 30 to 60 minutes.

How to clean a bathtub or sink outlet clogged with hair or fur?

Any chemical drain cleaner (Mole, Tiret and others like them) perfectly dissolves any organic matter, including hair. Pour the product into the outlet and wait 2 - 3 hours, then wash off the dissolved clog with water. Alternatively, the hair can be removed through the outlet grate using a thin sewer line or wire hook.

Conclusion

I hope that my recommendations will help the dear reader in solving everyday everyday problems. You can learn more about how pipes are installed in the bathroom by watching the video in this article. I look forward to your comments and additions. Good luck, comrades!

August 27, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

Do you want to seriously renovate and update your apartment? Then it will not hurt to know that one of the most basic stages of major home renovation is replacing old plumbing and pipes with new ones. In addition, this is the most impressive item of expenditure in the budget allocated for this work.

Reducing already impressive costs is a normal desire of every prudent owner. Do you agree? It’s quite possible to reduce them: installing plumbing fixtures yourself will help. We will tell you how to do the wiring, how to move and connect plumbing equipment, and what tools and materials are needed.

You will learn how to change the pipes in the bathroom and connect plumbing fixtures yourself. And in order to make it easier to understand the repair issue, the article provides thematic photo guides and video instructions.

Standard designs for high-rise buildings do not suit everyone, and apartment owners try to alter the plumbing according to their preferences. This set of works is very troublesome and time-consuming, however, if you study the theoretical side of the issue well and follow the instructions exactly, most of the work (if not all) can be done independently.

Which is better: series or collector circuit?

Today, two generally accepted ones are used - serial and collector.

The sequential (or as plumbers also call it, tee) system is considered classic. It is used in all standard apartment and private buildings with small bathrooms.

The system is very simple - from the central risers, through which hot and cold water is supplied to the apartment, it is laid under one main pipe, from which every plumbing fixture in the apartment is powered.

For each device, a tee is cut into the pipe. Thus, the entire length of pipes in a house or apartment is relatively short, so this wiring option is considered the most inexpensive

The amount of work involved in installing bathroom fixtures with your own hands is also not very large. However, this is where the advantages of the sequential circuit end. The main disadvantage of this type of connection is that all devices are powered from one pipe, and when one device is working, the pressure in all the others drops.

That is, when the washing machine pumps water, the pressure in the kitchen tap will be very weak, and vice versa.

Another drawback lies in the shutdown method. If one plumbing fixture breaks, then in order to repair it, you will have to completely shut off the water in the apartment. The collector system is used in those houses where there is a large load on the water supply system. In this case, all plumbing points are connected to the collector.

The manifold is a large-diameter distributor with a certain number of outlets. A separate tap is installed for each outlet

Most often, the collector is hidden in a special cabinet or closed niche for aesthetic reasons. Each plumbing fixture is connected to the collector separately, through a personal outlet. This connection method will require a large number of pipes, and installation work will take a lot of time.

Although you will have to tinker with connecting such a system, the advantage is obvious: the pressure in all plumbing fixtures will be stable under any mode of operation of the water supply system.

In addition, each device can be turned off or dismantled if necessary. In this case, there is no need to turn off the water completely - just turn off the tap at the desired outlet.

Wiring device in the bathroom

Assembling a pipeline from polypropylene pipes has its own tricks that you should pay close attention to:

Image gallery

How to properly connect a regular sink?

Focusing on it, we mark a horizontal line on the surface of the wall. After this, you need to measure the width of the back wall of the washbasin and set this distance down from the mark.

Before attaching brackets to the wall, you need to accurately calculate the distance between them. This is not difficult to do: turn the washbasin over and place the brackets on top so that they fit into the special grooves. Next, measure the distance between the brackets and transfer it to the wall.

Now you can make holes, beat dowels, tighten bolts. Next, you need to install the faucet on the sink, then secure it with bolts and washers, check the level of the sink and secure it with nuts.

We install a rubber gasket on the drain hole and mount the drain, connecting it to the siphon. Using an adapter, we connect the siphon outlet pipe to the sewer. Using flexible hoses, we connect hot and cold water to the mixer.

How to install a pedestal sink?

In this case, it is very important to make the markings correctly. We place the pedestal and place the sink on top of it so that the drain is exactly in the center of the stand. We check its location using a building level.

The process of installing a sink with a pedestal is not much different from installing a conventional washbasin: we additionally install an element that masks the pipes under the sink

After this, carefully mark the mounting locations for the bowl on the adjacent wall. The entire structure can be temporarily disassembled to make holes in the wall. After this, we beat the dowels, twist the screws, and put on the spacer nuts.

Now all that remains is to screw the washbasin bowl to the wall. The main thing here is not to overdo it, as the ceramic can crack if you tighten the nuts too tightly. You need to install a siphon inside the pedestal and connect it to the washbasin, and the outlet pipe to the sewer.

In order to visualize the process of installing a sink with a pedestal, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the following selection of photos:

Image gallery

Having installed the pedestal in the place of the intended connection and placed the sink on it, we check the horizontalness of the device with a building level

We carefully hammer the dowels into the drilled holes, using a rubber hammer through the board. We screw the brackets into them. We connect the sink to the outlet into the sewer system by connecting a siphon to its drain.

Stage 2: Marking the mounting points of the plumbing fixture

The most popular toilet model is floor-standing. If the bathroom floor is tiled with ceramic tiles, you need to place something soft under the toilet - for example, a piece of linoleum or rubber. To connect the toilet to the sewer, you need to use a special cuff. One end of it is connected to the toilet outlet, and the other to the sewer pipe.

The toilet is attached to the floor with special pins, which are inserted into dowels secured in pre-made holes.

The toilet is usually sold already assembled. All you have to do is attach it to the floor and connect it to the water supply and sewerage system.

In some cases, the toilet is glued to the floor using epoxy glue. In this case, the toilet cannot be used for approximately 12 hours until the glue has completely hardened.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Tips on wiring and self-installation of plumbing equipment can be found in the following videos.

Video #1. How to make wiring from PP pipes:

Video #2. Useful tips for welding PP pipes and installing plumbing:

Within the framework of this publication, we have provided only general information on replacing plumbing and pipe routing - this topic is too extensive to be fully covered in one article. However, we hope that this material will help you in planning and carrying out renovations in the bathroom, choosing materials and replacing plumbing fixtures.

Please write comments in the block below. We are interested in your stories about your personal experiences in installing plumbing fixtures yourself. We are waiting for messages with useful facts and questions on points of interest.

Repairing, remodeling or arranging a bathroom from scratch always requires work with utilities. We can talk about dismantling old pipelines and then installing new ones, or just laying out the system, but in any case, the installation of pipes in the bathroom must be done competently and efficiently.

You can entrust this work to professionals who can easily cope with this task. However, if desired, a home master can carry out the wiring himself, which will allow him to save money on paying for plumbers’ services. How to perform all operations correctly? We'll figure out.

First you need to decide what plumbing equipment needs to be placed in the bathroom and toilet or in a combined room, if such a solution is intended. Then find out which utilities should be connected to each of the devices.

In practice it looks like this:

Toilet. We supply sewerage and cold water.
Bidet. Cold and hot water and sewerage are connected.
Shower or bath. Hot and cold water and sewerage are supplied.
Sink-washbasin. We connect cold and hot water, sewerage.
Washing machine. Cold water and sewerage are supplied.

Having decided on the quantity and type of plumbing equipment, you can begin to develop a wiring diagram.

This is what a properly executed bathroom piping looks like. All communications are hidden in the walls

Types of piping in the bathroom

To make pipe distribution in the toilet and bathroom, you can use three different schemes: collector, sequential or system with pass-through sockets. The latter has limited use and is used only in private homes.

Because it requires the installation of an additional pump, which is designed to boost water, and involves laying a pipeline of greater length than analogues. The first two schemes are most often used.

Let's look at them in more detail.

The manifold pipe layout in the bathroom involves connecting each consumer through an individual supply pair, which is very convenient and practical

Collector

It involves parallel connection of each plumbing fixture to the main pipes. It is considered the most practical and reliable option, since each consumer is connected through an individual supply pair.

As a result, the water supply to the equipment can be adjusted using taps, and, if necessary, completely shut off. The supply pipes in the collector distribution have a minimum number of connections; it is possible to carry out hidden installation.

The control valves are placed on a small manifold, which is usually stored in a special cabinet.

The advantages of such a layout are obvious: repairs or maintenance of plumbing equipment can be carried out one at a time, without disconnecting the bathroom from the water supply.

The system also has disadvantages. First of all, this is a rather expensive option, since for each connection to the collector you will need to purchase and install shut-off valves. In addition, the wiring itself is more complex and requires precise calculations.

Typically, a collector system is designed and executed by professionals.

It is convenient to store the shut-off valves in a special manifold cabinet, which can be mounted into the wall. This way it will be completely invisible and will not spoil the overall appearance of the room.

Sequential

It is carried out by sequentially connecting each plumbing object to the main line through a separate tee. Suitable only for premises with a small number of consumers.

It can be performed after the finishing work in the bathroom is completed, since it is implemented mainly in an open way. Serial wiring is extremely simple and is compact and has a small number of connections.

During the installation process, the main line is laid from one device to another with the supply pipes coming out of the tees. A very economical option in terms of the number of pipes and additional materials. The disadvantage of the system is its possible unsatisfactory operation if a large number of water intake points are activated.

For example, if the wiring diagram contains a washing machine, toilet, boiler, bathtub and sink faucets, when they are turned on simultaneously or even partially, a water pressure deficit may occur, which will lead to incorrect operation of the equipment.

Why develop a wiring diagram?

Such a scheme is necessary to obtain a high-quality result. With its help, you can accurately calculate the number of bends and connections, determine areas for connecting equipment and significantly save materials and time.

The following mandatory elements must be included in the wiring diagram:

shut-off and control valves;
water meters;
filters;
fittings (adapters, water sockets, angles and couplings)
check and pressure reducing valves;
sewer;
connection to the heated towel rail.

In order for the wiring diagram to be accurate, you need to clearly understand the installation location and the number of required plumbing fixtures

We begin the development of the scheme by drawing up an accurate floor plan. On it, in the appropriate scale, we indicate the location of all plumbing fixtures, furniture and household appliances. We carefully consider the arrangement so that there is enough space left for free use of the equipment.

Doors should also open freely. The diagram shows the dimensions of all elements, this will make it easier to calculate the number of pipes needed to create utilities.

An important point: if the bathroom and toilet are separate, we carry out the wiring in them simultaneously, since these rooms will be connected to a single system.

After we have decided on the quantity and location of plumbing equipment, we begin planning the wiring. To do this, we draw on our diagram the location of the water supply and sewer pipes. During the planning process, we try to adhere to the following rules:

Pipes must not intersect. This is only possible when it is not possible to do the wiring differently.
There must be free access to areas for connecting plumbing equipment and metering devices.
It is advisable to place sewer and water pipes close to each other. In this case, they can later be easily closed with a common box.
The number of connections must be minimized.
Connecting couplings and pipes must be homogeneous, that is, made of the same material.
If possible, pipelines should be thermally insulated so that condensation does not settle on them.

Experts advise not to complicate the wiring and keep it extremely simple. It is optimal to lay all main pipes below, above the floor. From them, water outlets should be installed perpendicularly upward through the tees.

When laying sewer outlets, you need to keep in mind that they may not have a vertical part. Such a part will be a standard sewer tee into which a flexible hose is directed.

After we have marked on the diagram all the pipelines and sections of their connections, we can calculate the length of the elements necessary for arranging the wiring and the number of additional parts.

Closed installation requires labor-intensive preparation. The walls are grooved for pipes and connecting elements. Be careful: it is prohibited to tap load-bearing walls

Determining the installation method

Practice shows that the wiring of communications in the bathroom can be organized in three ways.

Method #1: Open

Involves laying pipelines over walls and floors. Used when it is not desirable or impossible to lay pipes in the walls. The main advantage is the ability to constantly monitor the condition of the pipeline and easy access to it in the event of an emergency. In addition, the cost of such a design is much lower and installation is much simpler.

However, the appearance of a pipeline installed in an open way leaves much to be desired. Unaesthetic communications spoil the interior of the bathroom. Therefore, whenever possible, they try to disguise them with all kinds of screens and boxes made of plasterboard or plastic and place them in the most inconspicuous areas of the room.

In addition, open communications can be inadvertently damaged.

Communications laid in an open way do not have the most aesthetic appearance; if possible, they should be covered with decorative elements

Method #2: Closed

Pipes and connections are laid inside the walls, only fittings are brought outside, and plumbing equipment is connected to them. The method is prohibited for use on load-bearing walls that cannot be grooved. The closed installation method does not interfere with the design of the room, since utility lines are hidden under the cladding.

In addition, it is impossible to damage such a line through negligence. However, the process of installation and preparation for it is much more complicated than during open installation.

According to building codes, before installation, the system elements are placed in a special casing pipe, after which they are laid in pre-prepared channels cut inside the walls. After the main is laid, the walls are sealed and leveled, maintaining plane.

A significant disadvantage of closed installation can be considered the lack of control over the condition of the pipes and the need in the event of an accident to dismantle the lining over a section of the pipeline that has become unusable.

The holes in the wall after laying the pipes are carefully sealed, the plane is completely leveled for finishing

Method #3: Combined

The mains are laid on top of the walls, after which they are masked using boxes or false panels. The difficulty of such finishing is to lay the sewer and water pipes close enough, which will later allow them to be covered with decor.

In addition, you need to think carefully about the type of finish, which should fit into the design of the bathroom and not clutter it up. To disguise pipes, profiled plasterboard boxes, all kinds of plastic decorative elements or tiles are most often used.

We lay pipes without errors

Having developed the wiring diagram and prepared the materials, you can begin assembling the entire system. Let's consider the features of installing water supply and sewerage.

Installation of a water supply system

When installing water pipes in the bathroom with our own hands, we begin by installing a control valve, which should be located close to the common riser. Thus, in the event of an emergency or during repairs, it will be possible to shut off the water supply to the apartment.

We install a coarse filter near the shut-off valves, then a water meter. If desired, you can install an additional so-called fine filter after the meter.

If the water supply is installed in a private house, it is worth installing a reducer, which must be equipped with a pressure gauge.

The device will allow you to monitor and, if necessary, regulate the level of water pressure in the system; normally it should not exceed 6 atmospheres. The next unit that is installed for the water supply is the collector. It is clear that the equipment is installed only if a collector-type wiring is installed.

After which the pipes are laid to all plumbing fixtures. The easiest way to connect equipment to the water supply is to use flexible hoses.

Features of laying pipes to the heated towel rail

If there is a heated towel rail in the bathroom, it can be connected either to the hot water supply line or to the heating system. Experts recommend the first option, since otherwise the equipment will only be able to fully operate during the heating season.

In addition, inserting into a heating pipe is associated with certain restrictions. It can only be carried out in the summer. The optimal solution is to connect to a hot pipeline.

When performing this, you need to take into account that a special jumper or bypass should be installed between the heated towel rail and the main line.

We begin laying the water supply with the installation of shut-off valves, coarse filters and metering devices

The element will connect the return and direct pipes, and shut-off ball valves should be installed in front of the coil and immediately after it.

Thus, if necessary, the heated towel rail can be disconnected from the general system for repair, replacement, or to preserve heat in it. Please note that during installation of the device you must precisely maintain the minimum distance from the wall.

For devices with a pipe diameter above 25 mm it is 50 mm, and for radiators with a cross-section up to 23 mm - 35 mm. In addition, special attention should be paid to the center-to-center distance of the pipes intended for connecting equipment. It must be precisely adjusted, otherwise it will be impossible to connect the heated towel rail.

Laying a sewer line

Sewer pipes are laid at a slope, which is 0.03 for elements with a cross-section of 40-50 mm and 0.02 for diameters from 85 to 100 mm. We begin installation from the point furthest from the riser. From here we begin to derive the slope of the pipeline, about 2 cm per linear meter.

With a large slope the flow rate will be too high, with a smaller slope it will be low. In any case, this will lead to the settling of large particles of contaminants on the walls of the pipe, which guarantees regular blockages. The elements are connected using special sockets, which should be directed towards the riser.

There should be an o-ring inside the socket to prevent drainage from leaking. During installation, it creates some resistance, so experts advise lubricating the inner surface of the socket with laundry soap or silicone.

We cut the smooth ends of the parts at a right angle and clean them from the chamfer. Do not forget that sewer wiring should be extremely simple. Plumbing fixtures should be connected in series, avoiding “crossroads”.

Otherwise, when simultaneously draining from two devices, a “congestion” may occur.

Before cutting the part, we accurately mark the required size and outline the cutting line. We cut exactly at right angles

An important point: ensuring the possibility of cleaning the sewer. If the plumbing fixtures are located at a fairly large distance, it makes sense to install an additional tee with a cover on the top hole. Through it, it will later be possible to clean the sewer if necessary.

Once all plumbing fixtures are connected to the sewer pipeline, the work can be considered complete. Laying pipes in the bathroom is a task quite feasible for home craftsmen. To complete all the work efficiently and correctly, you will need strict adherence to all points of the instructions, accuracy and patience.

Only then will the result please you with impeccable long-term service!

Which material to choose?

You can choose different pipes for laying water pipes, but experts most often recommend practical modern solutions:

Polypropylene. Such parts can withstand pressure up to 25 atmospheres, are durable and do not corrode. Polypropylene pipes are suitable for both cold and hot water. Diffusion welding is used to connect elements, resulting in reliable permanent joints.
Metal-plastic. Each part is a two-layer structure, with plastic inside and metal outside. The products can be used for cold and hot water supply. The pipes bend well, which reduces the number of connections. Compression or pressure fittings are used to make joints.

To lay a water supply system, you will need pipes complete with adapters, tees, angles, couplings and shut-off valves

The sewer line is most often made of PVC pipes. Polyvinyl chloride is sufficiently rigid, which makes it possible to use it when installing risers. To connect the elements, a socket design with a seal is used.

The low weight of PVC pipes greatly facilitates their installation. For sewer installation, elements of two main sizes are used: with a diameter of 50 and 110 mm.