Corrugated sheet is an excellent roofing covering that can be used to finish the roofs of almost any residential or commercial building. For each individual case, the use of a corrugated sheet of the appropriate type is provided, but the procedure for its installation in most cases remains unchanged.
The corrugated sheet consists of a sheet of steel and a special zinc coating, which protects the material from corrosion. It is best to cover the roof with expensive polymer-coated material. In high-quality sheets, zinc is additionally coated with chromium, after which it is primed and subjected to additional treatment with a polymer paint and varnish material.
For finishing roofs, a universal sheet and a wall variety of material are most often used. When choosing a material, be sure to pay attention to the type and height of the corrugation. In the case of roofs, it is best to use a “wave” with a height of 21-35 cm. A “trapezoidal” corrugation of the same height is also perfect. The optimal sheet thickness is 0.8-1 mm. Additionally, you need to take into account the slope of the slope and the features of the sheathing.
To ensure that the work of constructing a roof from corrugated sheets with your own hands is completed as quickly as possible and with the least amount of labor, it is recommended to prepare in advance everything necessary for the work.
- Screwdriver.
- Special riveting machine. With its help you will process the joints of sheets of material.
- Tool for manual cutting of sheets. It will be discussed in detail below.
- Building level.
- Yardstick.
- Hammer, pencil, nails and other small things used to perform any construction tasks.
It is important to thoroughly prepare for installation work so that everything goes at the highest level and with minimal costs. To begin with, you should properly organize the transportation of roofing material to the workplace. Lift each sheet onto the roof individually.
It is important that there is no gusty or strong wind outside, because... it may cause damage to the material.
The main stage of preparation begins with the organization of insulation, laying moisture and vapor barriers. The latter is attached to the inside of the rafters with an overlap of about 10 cm. The joints are glued with metallized tape.
Check the film before use. Any defects, cracks or other damage are unacceptable. They must be sealed. Remember that properly installed vapor barrier, insulation and moisture protection can save up to 20% of heat and even more.
When using corrugated sheets, it is best to insulate the roof using matte materials. No special recommendations for thermal insulation are given: the slabs are laid in a sheathing, previously covered with a vapor barrier film, and covered with a layer of waterproofing.
Pay special attention to waterproofing. This material will protect the insulation from the harmful effects of moisture, upon contact with which the thermal insulation properties are noticeably reduced. As a result, this leads to the roof being covered with ice, the rooms becoming damp, wooden structures rapidly rotting, etc. Polyethylene film does an excellent job of protecting against moisture. Lay it with an overlap of about 15 cm and secure the joints with adhesive tape.
The corrugated sheet is laid starting from the lower edge of the roof. The material is installed with an overlap. The sheets are fastened using self-tapping screws with rubber seals. They must be fixed in the bends of the corrugated sheet waves.
First of all, it is necessary to make a dense plank flooring under the valley plank. Lay it approximately at the level of the roof sheathing, retreating about 60 cm from the gutter on both sides. Laying the bottom valley boards should be done with an overlap of at least 20 cm. Use nails to secure the bottom strip. Finally, it is fixed together with the roof. If the roof has a gentle slope, experts advise additionally using mastics for compaction.
Place the bottom strip under the roof ridge approximately 25 cm. Place a sealant between the strip and the profiled sheet. It is recommended to fasten the end boards above the sheathing. In the future, this will make it possible to secure the end strips. It is in this order that the wind corner is created.
At the next stage, the cornice strip is mounted and hemmed with a profiled sheet. This bar must be set lower in relation to the profiled sheet. Be sure to take care to create proper ventilation of the space under the roof.
The procedure for laying corrugated sheets is largely determined by the characteristics of a particular type of roof. For example, if we are talking about flat structures, then the sheets are stacked with overlap in 1 wave and the mandatory use of longitudinal sealing gasket. In the case of steep slopes There is no need to install sealant. When finishing hip roofs laying the corrugated sheet begins directly with hip center. The sheets of roofing material are directly aligned with a rope pre-stretched along the eaves.
There are several technologies for laying modern profiled sheets on the roof. For example, in accordance with the vertical installation method, the first sheet is laid at the bottom to create a temporary fastening. The 1st sheet of the 2nd row is mounted using a similar principle. Next, the 2nd sheet of both rows of masonry is fixed so that the result is a block of 3 profiled sheets. Then you need to dock the next one to the laid block and continue to do so until all the allocated space is filled.
Laying can also be done by creating blocks of 3 profiled sheets. To implement this task, you first need to lay 2 sheets of the 1st row, fastening them to each other as securely as possible, and then dock the 3rd profiled sheet of the 2nd row. The laid block is secured after precise alignment in accordance with the cornice. Afterwards, the next block of the same type is created, and the laying continues according to this pattern until the end.
Regardless of the chosen method of installing the corrugated sheet, be sure to check each fixation unit. The reliability, service life and quality of the future roofing covering as a whole largely depend on the connection points.
Rules for installing planks
Installing a roof from the material in question with your own hands requires the mandatory use of different slats. The first of them is the end one. As a rule, it has a two-meter length. If it is necessary to increase the length of the planks, they are overlapped. Mounted along the roof overhang in the direction of the ridge. The fastening is carried out in such a way that at least one wave of the profiled sheet overlaps the end strip. Use self-tapping screws for fixation. They must be fastened in increments of no more than 100 cm.
The next step is arranging the ridge. When performing this stage of work, you need to be as careful as possible, because... the ridge is one of the most important nodes roofing system. Installation is carried out using smooth ridge components, between which professional builders advise laying a layer of additional thermal insulation. In the case of using corrugated profiled sheets, installation of a special ridge seal is allowed.
Work on installing a roof made of corrugated sheets is completed with the installation of abutment strips. These products are two meters long and are laid with an overlap of up to 20 cm. They are fastened with self-tapping screws on the side of the profiled sheets. Self-tapping screws must be installed every 40 cm.
It is important to follow the rules for connecting the roof structure to the wall of the house. Thus, the end of the roof and the walls are connected using a special ridge seal. It is placed between the joint strip and the upper edge of the profiled sheet.
It is important to lay a longitudinal seal at the lateral junctions of the roof. Such an event will help protect the structure from snow and other undesirable elements getting into it. If the roof slope has a steep slope, there is no need to use a sealant.
In the process of constructing a roof from a corrugated sheet with your own hands, there is almost always a need to cut the sheets. This can be done using a variety of tools. The most important thing is that during such processing the protective layer of the sheet is not damaged.
A hacksaw for metal, ordinary scissors for cutting tin, a circular saw, and a professional electric cutter are very suitable for cutting. You should avoid using grinders and other abrasive tools. After cutting with a grinder, the corrugated sheet material will become very fragile and unstable to corrosion, which as a result will not have the best effect on the main characteristics and service life of the roofing system.
After cutting with any suitable tool, the edges of the corrugated sheet must be coated with enamel designed specifically for processing polymer surfaces. Thanks to this, the protection of the corrugated sheet from corrosion will be restored.
You are already familiar with the main aspects of constructing a roof from a corrugated sheet with your own hands. Now you need to understand and learn a number of nuances that will allow you to perform the work at the highest level.
First of all, remember that the corrugated sheet is laid starting from the end of some lower corner. In some situations, you can fasten several sheets at once at the bottom, stepping back from the cornice strip about 40 cm. Fastenings must be made on every 2nd wave.
Special wind corners are designed to protect the end boards. They need to be installed after all the sheets have been laid. Profiled sheets are laid transversely and longitudinally.
In the case of horizontal fastening, the overlap is made such that the top sheet overlaps the bottom sheet by exactly 1 wave. This is relevant for situations where installation is carried out using a special rubber gasket. In the absence of such a gasket, the overlap should be 2 waves. If the profiled sheet is laid vertically, the upper element must overlap the underlying one by at least 20 cm.
The use of the repeatedly mentioned seal can be abandoned only if the roof slope has a slope exceeding 60 degrees. After laying all the corrugated sheets, proceed to forming connections. Longitudinal joints are made along the crest every 50 cm, vertical joints are made along the bottom of each existing wave.
To install the roofing material in question, you can use only self-tapping screws specially designed for this purpose. They are also known as hardware. Approximately 5-8 such fasteners should be used per 1 m2 of roof space. It is recommended to match the hardware to the color of the roofing. On the ridge, fastening is carried out with the obligatory use of a tin gasket. On the main field, you need to use a rubber pad.
Thus, independent construction of a roof from corrugated sheets is quite possible. You just need to follow all the rules and adhere to the basic recommendations, thanks to which even an inexperienced home craftsman can figure out the procedure for attaching profiled sheets and performing all related operations. Follow the instructions received and you will succeed.
Happy work!
Video - Do-it-yourself roof made of corrugated sheets
Not so long ago, slate was the most popular roofing material. Today, it is increasingly being replaced by profiled metal sheets, which have not only high performance characteristics, but also an aesthetic appearance. Therefore, corrugated sheeting is used not only for covering outbuildings or country houses, but also for roofing large mansions. This material is produced in a fairly wide range of colors, and in connection with this, some owners, wanting to achieve the exclusivity of the external appearance of the house, even use several corrugated sheeting models that are in harmony with each other to cover the roofs.
The construction of a roof made of corrugated sheets over a wooden sheathing can be done independently. It is clear that in addition to the roofing material itself, it is necessary to prepare some auxiliary elements of the roof structure and have certain construction tools available. However, before purchasing and starting to complete the task, it is worth familiarizing yourself with the positive and negative qualities of this material, and very carefully studying all stages of the work, from delivery to installation of wind strips, gutters, soffits and other final elements of the roofing structure.
Advantages and disadvantages of profiled metal roofing
It is necessary to familiarize yourself with information about the advantages and disadvantages of this roofing material not only in order to make the right choice, but also to understand what can be expected from it during operation.
So, the positive qualities of corrugated board include the following:
- The minimum service life of a roof made of corrugated sheets, when installed in accordance with technology requirements, is 13–15 years, which fully corresponds to the cost of the material.
- Profiled roofing metal sheet is not very heavy, which makes it easier to transport, carry, lift to heights, lay, level and secure to the rafter system.
- The neat appearance of the material can transform any structure, and the variety of colors can give the roof the necessary individuality.
- High-quality laid corrugated sheeting copes well with its main task - protecting the house from precipitation and wind. It is waterproof and the wave profile allows for excellent water drainage from the roof. In addition, in some models of corrugated sheeting, the manufacturer provides a capillary groove or drain channel located along the edges of the sheet and designed for high-quality removal of precipitation and melt water that gets between adjacent sheets of roofing material. This option of corrugated sheeting is especially suitable for roofs with a slight slope.
- Corrugated sheeting is an environmentally friendly material, which is important for residential buildings.
- Profiled sheets are produced in lengths of up to 12 meters, which allows you to order them for roofs with slopes of almost any length in order to install them avoiding horizontal joints.
The disadvantages of corrugated sheets include the following features:
- Metal has high thermal conductivity, and therefore, the thermal insulation qualities of such a roof can be safely assessed as “none.” The attic will be cold in winter and incredibly hot from direct sunlight in summer. All this means that in order to achieve a normal temperature balance, it is recommended to use it in combination with a metal coating. This factor will inevitably increase the cost of arranging the roof of the house.
- Metal, especially that which has a small thickness and is used for the manufacture of both corrugated sheets and metal tiles, at high wind speeds, reaching up to 15 m/s, can resonate and emit ultrasound, which negatively affects the psychological state of a person. Therefore, in areas with frequent windy weather, it is better not to use metal roofing, preferring heavier coverings that do not react to the wind in the same way.
- Any metal does not have the property of sound insulation, so the sound of raindrops hitting the roof, and even more so, hail, will be clearly audible in the house. But if the roof is insulated, the thermal insulation material will simultaneously serve as an effective barrier against noise penetration into the premises.
When arranging the roof, do not forget about its insulation!
Laying a layer of thermal insulation directly under the roof slopes solves many problems at once, especially if the attic space is planned to be used usefully. Read how to do it in a special publication on our portal.
To avoid the mentioned negatives, sometimes special sandwich panels are used for roofing work. They consist of two sheets of profiled metal, with a layer of thermal insulation material placed between them. High-density mineral basalt wool, polyurethane foam or expanded polystyrene can be used as insulation. However, such material requires a completely different technological approach during installation, and will not be considered within the framework of this publication.
Types of corrugated sheets used for roofing work
In order for a corrugated roofing to last for a long time, for these purposes it is necessary to choose the right type of material intended for use in this particular area. Therefore, when purchasing roofing material, you need to pay attention to its labeling.
- “C” is wall corrugated sheeting, intended mainly for cladding walls and installing fences. Its load-bearing capacity is low, and its strength characteristics may not be sufficient for roofing work, especially for materials with low wave heights
- “NS” is a universal type of profiled sheets that can be used both for roof covering and for installation of fences.
- “N” is a load-bearing corrugated sheet, made of a material of great thickness, with a high wave, used mainly to create self-supporting building structures. In “small” construction for roofing work, the use of such material does not seem cost-effective.
- “MP” is a universal series that is suitable for both fencing and roofing work. By the way, various types of profiles of this series are produced, and for covering the roof the material with the index “MP-R” will be optimal.
In addition to marking by purpose, profiled sheets may vary in other technical characteristics, which include parameters such as sheet thickness and corrugation height:
- The height of the wave (corrugations) of the corrugated sheet, as well as the thickness of the metal from which it is made, determine the strength and rigidity of the material - the higher these parameters, the stronger the sheet.
- Profiled sheets are produced with wave heights that can vary from 8 to 114 mm.
The range of produced corrugated sheets is very wide. For roofing work in home construction, models with a wave height of 18 to 50 mm and a metal sheet thickness of at least 0.45 mm are usually used. - The corrugated sheet is made from steel sheet with a thickness of 0.4÷1.0 mm. For roofing, you should not save too much by choosing sheets that are too thin, since their reliability is much lower.
Prices for profiled sheets
profiled sheet
A few words about the external coating of corrugated board. High-quality profiled roofing sheet has the following coating structure:
As you can see from the presented diagram, the sheet must have a double-sided protective coating - only in this case can you count on a long service life of the roof.
So, a profiled steel sheet is coated on both sides with a layer of zinc, on top of which there is a layer of anti-corrosion compound, after which a primer is applied to it. Next, the outer side of the sheet is covered with a protective and decorative polymer layer, which is often covered with a protective transparent film.
On the reverse side of the sheet, only a protective layer of paint is applied on top of the primer. If the inner side is not coated, such material can and will be inexpensive, but its service life will be short. Therefore, it is recommended not to get carried away with saving on quality, otherwise the roofing will cost even more, if you first take into account its installation, then dismantling, purchasing new material and laying it on the rafter system.
- Corrugated sheets are made from galvanized steel sheets with and without different types of coating. Uncoated profiled sheets have a more affordable price and have the ability to reflect ultraviolet rays, which allows them to heat up less on hot summer days.
However, such inexpensive coatings are most often used for roofs of adjacent buildings, while for residential buildings a material is usually used that has a protective outer layer, which is also intended to give the necessary decorative appearance to the appearance of the building.
- Profiled sheets can also have an aluminum-silicon coating, which is no less resistant to external influences and has high strength properties, as well as a long service life.
- An aluminum-zinc composition (aluminum-zinc) is also used to cover sheets, but it has lower performance characteristics.
- Polyester applied to galvanized sheets is not only a protective, but also a decorative coating. A layer of this material gives the roof aesthetics and individuality to the appearance of the building. However, it should be remembered that such a coating is not durable - it is prone to fading and even peeling off from the base.
- Polyvinyl difluoride can be called the highest quality coating, as it has high adhesive ability to metal, resistance to ultraviolet radiation, strength and enviable durability. However, the price of this material is much higher than the cost of corrugated sheeting with another coating. However, these costs are justified in terms of long-term operation of the roof without loss of any protective and decorative qualities.
- Pural is another type of coating, which is an analogue of polyvinyl difluoride, but has a more affordable price. The performance characteristics are quite good, durability is estimated at several decades, so prudent owners most often choose just such corrugated sheeting to cover the roof.
How to accurately decide on the choice of corrugated roofing?
We will not dwell on this issue further in this article. This is not at all because the problem is of minor importance - on the contrary, it is so serious that it requires separate consideration. – is described in detail in a special publication on our portal.
Some features of installation work
There are several points that must be taken into account when installing sheets on the rafter system, as they will directly affect the reliability and durability of the roof being created.
How to attach corrugated sheeting to wooden sheathing?
It will not be enough to purchase high-quality material - it must be properly laid and secured to the wooden sheathing of the rafter system.
Basically, all types of profiled metal sheets, when installed on the sheathing, are overlapped on one wave. If the sheets have a low corrugation and the roof slope is small, then sometimes they are laid overlapping on two waves.
To secure sheets aligned along the line of the eaves overhang to the sheathing, special roofing screws are used, equipped with a hex head (8) and a press washer, at the bottom of which there is an elastic rubber gasket that ensures the roof is sealed at the connection point. Self-tapping screws are considered to be of higher quality if the sealing gasket is made of modified self-vulcanizing EPDM rubber, 2.8 mm thick.
The screw head and press washer are usually selected painted to match the color of the roofing sheets.
Prices for roofing screws
roofing screws
Ensuring tightness at the attachment point allows you to install self-tapping screws along the bottom of the corrugated sheeting wave, that is, in the areas where the sheet adheres to the sheathing parts. This is also very convenient from the point of view that the wave will not become deformed from accidental excess force when screwing in the screw.
Roofing screws have a drill tip at the end, which allows you to do without pre-drilling a metal sheet. The self-tapping screw will make a hole of the required diameter - the torque of a conventional screwdriver is quite sufficient for this.
However, when choosing self-tapping screws, one nuance must be taken into account.
In our publication we are talking about wooden sheathing for roofing. Therefore, it is necessary to purchase metal-wood screws. Despite all the external similarities with the “metal-to-metal” type, they have a distinctive feature - the diameter of the drill is significantly smaller than the diameter of the threads of the screw itself. The pitch of the turns is also different - it is designed to reliably hold the fastener in the wood. If you install metal-to-metal screws on a wooden sheathing, the fastening will be absolutely unreliable.
Standard sizes of metal-wood roofing screws: diameter 4.8 mm, length from 29 to 80 mm. Fasteners with a length of 29, 35 and 39 mm are usually used specifically for fixing sheets along the sheathing guides (depending on the thickness of the timber or board used). Longer ones will be required for attaching additional parts - so that it is possible to “sew” the profile element through the corrugated sheeting to the sheathing parts.
Installation of roofing screws along the top of the wave is mainly practiced only in the area of overlapping sheets. This connection is made through the crest of the wave every 500 mm, starting from the eaves line to the ridge.
When mutually twisting two sheets together along the top of the wave, as well as when installing additional profile elements, pre-drilling holes with a drill with a diameter of 3.5 mm can be practiced.
When installing sheets with a polymer coating, it is recommended, after screwing in the screws, to remove the resulting metal shavings from the surface, as they can damage the protective coating of the roofing sheets. Chips are removed using a soft brush.
It should also be remembered that fixing the corrugated sheeting to the sheathing with rivets or nails is not allowed, since these fastenings are not capable of holding the roofing covering when exposed to strong winds.
Prices for edged boards
edged board
Slope angle
The second thing that needs to be said is the steepness of the roof slopes. This parameter will determine what type of sheathing should be made under the roofing material, as well as the amount of overlap of adjacent sheets in the longitudinal and transverse directions. The waterproofing qualities of the roof, and therefore the reliability and durability of the entire rafter system as a whole, will depend on how well these rules are followed.
- For a roof whose slopes have a steepness of 5–10 degrees, the sheathing must be made continuous. In this case, boards are used for it, and they are fixed on the bars of the counter-lattice at a distance of 3–7 mm from each other. In this design, corrugated sheeting is laid overlapping two waves of one sheet on top of the other. If short sheets of material are used for the coating, and they are planned to be laid in two rows, then the top row should be 300 mm above the bottom. In this case, it is also recommended to treat the edges of the sheets with sealant to eliminate the risk of water getting between them.
- If the slopes are located at an angle of 10–15 degrees, then the boards or bars of the sheathing can be fixed in increments of 300–450 mm, and the overlap of the sheets laid next to each other is made in one wave. When installing sheets in two rows, the top row overlaps the bottom row by 220÷250 mm.
- When the roof slopes have a steepness exceeding 15 degrees, the sheathing elements can be arranged in increments of 550÷600 mm, and the overlap of the top row on the bottom can be reduced to 170÷200 mm.
For the convenience of marking the location of the sheathing guides, you can use a homemade template - a piece of timber or slats of such a length that corresponds to the selected installation step.
These were, so to speak, general rules, and the table below also contains recommendations taking into account the wave height of the corrugated sheeting - there the overlap values and the pitch of the sheathing are given more accurately.
| Type of corrugated sheet and wave height | Roof slope steepness, degrees | Recommended sheet thickness, mm | Step of the created sheathing |
|---|---|---|---|
| S-8 | Minimum 15º | 0.5 | Continuous sheathing |
| S-10 | Up to 15º | 0.5 | Continuous sheathing |
| Over 15º | 0.5 | No more than 300 mm | |
| S-18 | Up to 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | Continuous sheathing |
| Over 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | No more than 450 mm | |
| S-21, MP-20R | Up to 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | No more than 300 mm |
| Over 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | No more than 600 mm | |
| NS-35 | Up to 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | No more than 500 mm |
| Over 15º | 0.5÷0.7 | Up to 1000 mm | |
| N-60 | Minimum 8º | 0.7÷0.9 | Up to 3000 mm |
| N-75 | Minimum 8º | 0.7÷0.9 | Up to 4000 mm |
| It is not recommended to use C-8 and C-10 corrugated sheets for roofing work. | |||
Rules for laying sheets
When installing profile sheets on the sheathing, it is important to follow the sequence of laying the sheets, especially in cases where the material is mounted in two (or more) rows.
- Double-row installation of profiled sheets is carried out from the eaves line. The outermost sheet must be very carefully aligned in the direction of the slope and along the edge of the eaves overhang, since it will subsequently serve as a kind of guide for other sheets. All sheets of the first row are aligned along the eaves overhang of the slope with the same output of 35÷40 mm, otherwise the eaves edge will turn out sloppy.
- The second row overlaps the first (lower), and the size of the overlap will depend on the slope of the roof. Installation of the second row begins on the same side of the slope as the first.
- However, the best option for solving this problem would still be to purchase corrugated sheets, which will have a length corresponding to the length of the slope, for any roof slope. This approach will significantly facilitate and speed up installation, and also increase the waterproofing characteristics of the created roof.
General installation sequence
Before moving on to a detailed step-by-step examination of the installation of corrugated sheeting on a roof truss system, it is worthwhile to outline the general sequence of such work.
- The first step is to install a timber frame on the walls, or just one, to which the rafters will be attached.
- Next, the rafters are marked and installed.
- The formed slopes are covered with waterproofing material.
- On top of the waterproofing, counter battens are fixed to the rafters.
- Then, along the end edges of the counter-lattice slats along the eaves, it is recommended to fasten a mosquito net.
- After this, holders for the gutter are fixed along the eaves, on the counter batten slats.
- A strapping beam is fixed on top of them, which will become the starting point for forming the sheathing and will serve as the basis for attaching the drip profile to it.
- Guide battens are fixed perpendicular to the slats and parallel to the cornice and ridge line with a selected step.
- Next, the gutter and cornice strip are installed.
- After this, gable bars are nailed along the slopes, and the end boards are secured.
- Now, one sheet at a time, the corrugated sheets are lifted and secured onto the slope.
- After laying the material on the slopes, ridge roofing elements are mounted.
- A wind corner is mounted on the gable sides of the roof.
- The eaves of the roof are being hemmed.
Installation of corrugated roofing - step by step
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | To consider each of the steps of arranging a roof covered with corrugated sheeting in more detail, you should start with the rafter system. In the construction of small private houses, boards with a cross section of 150×50 mm are most often used as rafter legs. However, if the slopes of the house are long, then boards or beams of greater thickness can be used. The rafters are installed according to the markings applied to the Mauerlat, with a calculated step corresponding to their cross-section and the calculated load on the roof. In the upper ridge part, the rafters can be fastened together with metal plates or nailed to the ridge girder. This diagram shows a hanging rafter system, that is, one that does not have any emphasis on the internal main partition of the house. More details about rafter systems are described in special publications on our portal. |
 | A metal drip strip is attached to the lower edge of the aligned rafter legs. If it consists of several elements, then they are mounted overlapping the thickness of the rafters. The plank is fixed with nails or self-tapping screws. |
 | Another option is to first install a trim board along the edges of the rafter legs (item 1). It is cut into the rafters so that it is flush with their upper end. Then, along it, the installation of the profile - drip line (pos. 2) is carried out. |
 | The next stage of work is laying rolled waterproofing material on the slopes, securing it to the rafters. Rolling out the waterproofing begins from the cornice line horizontally, and each subsequent sheet is laid overlapping the bottom sheet by 100÷150 mm. Some manufacturers consider it necessary to apply an overlap line on the waterproofing sheets. – there is less chance of making a mistake. |
 | This way the material is laid all the way to the ridge. The canvas is laid so that it covers the upper part of both slopes. But the canvases on the ridge should not be joined - a ventilation gap is left. |
 | Counter-lattice slats (bars) are attached to the rafters on top of the waterproofing material. |
 | Pay attention to the stepped configuration of the counter battens in the ridge area. Such a step is either cut out (if 50×50 mm timber is used), or two 25 mm thick slats are used for the counter-lattice, and the upper one in length should not reach 150 mm to the ridge line, since inserts will be used in this area , which will fix a separate waterproofing sheet covering the ridge. Next, pieces of timber 200 mm long are nailed along the ridge with a step between them of also 200 mm - this distance will become the ventilation gap for the under-roof space. |
 | After the bars are attached to the entire ridge line, the ridge along with them is covered with a strip of waterproofing material, which is laid on the same step of the counter-lattice. |
 | From above, the waterproofing is pressed against the bottom slats with short segments-inserts. As a result, they should form a flat section of the counter-lattice. |
 | The next step is to attach a metal mosquito net to the ends of the counter-lattice slats so that insects cannot penetrate into the under-roof space and make their nests there. For example, wasps are very big fans of such “shelters”, and it’s unlikely that anyone will like such a dangerous neighborhood. |
 | Next, hook-holders for the drainage gutter are attached to the slats along the entire eaves line using nails or self-tapping screws. Each of the brackets is rigidly fixed with two fasteners - for this purpose the manufacturer usually provides the necessary holes in them. |
 | The initial sheathing beam is laid and nailed on top of the gutter bracket fastening areas. It must be positioned perfectly level, since it is with reference to it that the location of the remaining sheathing guides will be marked. |
 | Begin installing the remaining sheathing guides, with calculated steps. There is one nuance - the second beam from the cornice is mounted with a pitch reduced by about a third. So, for example, if a step of 350 mm is chosen, a gap of 250÷280 mm is made between the first and second beams, since the edge of the slope always bears a greater load than its middle part. In order for the marking to be done correctly, the counter battens are placed on the first batten and the required distances are marked. After this, nails are driven in along the marks, onto which a tinted cord is secured in turn and stretched to the outermost rail located on the opposite side of the slope. Then, using it, parallel lines are struck perpendicular to the counter-lattice. |
 | Next, all the sheathing bars are secured along the marking lines. They can be fixed with nails, which is what most craftsmen do, but self-tapping screws can also be used for this purpose. |
 | When finished, roof slopes prepared for corrugated sheeting may look like what is shown in this picture. However, quite often, not timber is used for lathing, but a board 120÷150 mm wide and 20÷25 mm thick, but this option will make the roof heavier. |
 | Next, a beam is placed along the ridge, having a cross-sectional height equal to the wave height of the selected profiled sheet, and a width of 40 mm. You can fill a solid beam or make it up of two rows, as shown in the illustration. |
 | The next step is to lay the gutter on the mounted brackets secured along the eaves. The overlap of individual parts of the gutter is made using hooks. As a rule, the manufacturer provides special recesses for this purpose. |
 | Having installed the gutter, a cornice strip is attached to the outer beam or board of the sheathing, which will serve as additional protection for the wooden elements of the sheathing from moisture. The plank is fixed with nails driven in increments of 150÷170 mm. |
 | Now you need to work on the gable side of the rafter system. To do this, a beam is fixed along the gable edges of the future slopes, equal in height to the ridge beam or the height of the corrugated board wave. These elements are also fixed with nails. |
 | Next, a wind board is mounted on the outer rafter and gable beam. It is intended not only to give a finished appearance to the rafter system, but also to close the edges of the roofing material, preventing gusts of wind from penetrating under it. |
 | When completed, ready for laying profiled roofing sheets, the rafter system with sheathing will look something like this. |
 | Next, a few words need to be said about how to lift entire long sheets of corrugated sheets onto roof slopes, since for many this process is a very difficult task. The fact is that corrugated sheets have a small thickness, usually around 0.5÷0.6 mm, therefore, if handled incorrectly, the sheet relief can be deformed. It will not be easy to combine a “broken” sheet with others, and sometimes it will be completely impossible, that is, the material will be rejected. |
 | The roofing material is lifted manually in three ways - by securing two beams along the entire length of the sheet, or by placing one or two sheets horizontally and securing them with loops of strong ropes closer to the edges. In the latter case, there must be two people at the height who will lift the corrugated sheet onto the slope. The third method, which is also often used for lifting corrugated sheets, is to pull the sheet along two guides made of boards or beams installed almost to the width of the sheet. To carry out lifting in this way, it is necessary to involve at least three assistants. |
 | Laying of whole sheets is done from the edge of the slope on the leeward side of the building, so that the wind currents prevailing in the area do not have the opportunity to penetrate into the joints between the sheets. The corrugated sheeting is mounted overlapping one wave or two waves (depending on the steepness of the slope), and the sheets must fit tightly to each other without gaps. It should be noted that, despite the difficulty of lifting long sheets that will cover the entire length of the slope, it is better to choose this particular roof covering option, since there will be no transverse joints in the roof, which will significantly increase the waterproofing capabilities of the coating. |
 | If it is necessary to facilitate some of the work associated with lifting oversized corrugated sheets (for example, due to the lack of the required number of assistants), then the second roof installation option is chosen, which uses two rows of shorter sheets. In this case, the first step is to lay the bottom row of sheets located along the eaves line. They also begin to be laid downwind with an overlap of one or two waves. |
 | Having completed the installation of the first row, you need to return to its beginning, and begin to fasten the second row on the same side of the slope as the bottom one. The second row is mounted overlapping the first - the amount of overlap was discussed above. |
 | The roof covering is secured to the sheathing beams using special self-tapping screws. They have already been discussed above in the text. |
 | Self-tapping screws are screwed into the bottom of the wave. At the same time, along the ridge and cornice lines, as well as along the overlaps of the top row of sheets on the bottom, they are screwed into each wave depression. Throughout the rest of the space of the slope, the corrugated sheeting is fastened to the sheathing not in each cavity, but through one, in compliance with the “chessboard order”. |
 | You need to pay close attention to the process of screwing in the screws. Firstly, the axis of the screw must be strictly perpendicular to the plane of the coating. Secondly, it is very important to correctly adjust the “ratchet” of the screwdriver to ensure the optimal tightening torque for the screw. Equally unacceptable is weak tightening (the hole is not sealed) and excessive tightening, when the gasket is squeezed out from under the press washer. In addition, excessive force when screwing in can lead to the self-tapping screw “biting through” a channel in the wood, the spiral coils will have nothing to hold onto, and the attachment point will be hopelessly ruined. |
 | After all the roofing material has been secured to the slopes and fixed to the sheathing guides, you can move on to arranging the ridge area, which is important for both waterproofing and ventilation of the roofing system. The latter is especially important if the roof is planned to be insulated. To decorate the ridge, special elements are produced that completely cover the gap formed between the sheets of corrugated sheets in the upper part of the roof. |
 | In the places where the ridge is attached to the slopes, a special universal seal is glued to the corrugated sheets, which will close the gaps formed in the recesses of the waves. The ridge is fixed to the upper element of the sheathing through the seal and sheets of corrugated sheets using the same self-tapping screws, screwed in in increments of 150 mm |
 | The next stage of covering the roof with corrugated board is the installation of the end angle, which is fixed to the wind gable board and to the sheathing through the outer sheet of corrugated board. Fastening is carried out in increments of 180÷200 mm. |
 | Next, you can move on to filing the overhangs. This process is not too complicated, since the design of these elements is quite clear. To do this, a special profile or corner is fixed to the wall according to the markings, into which one side of the soffits will be installed. The same profile is mounted parallel to the wall corner, on the inside of the cornice. Then, on the shelves obtained from the corners, the soffit parts cut to size are laid and screwed. |
 | Instead of corners, so-called starting profiles can be used, which have grooves into which the spotlights are pushed. In this case, plastic panels are used, equipped with perforations to ensure air circulation. If it is decided to use a treated wooden board for the spotlights, then it is mounted on a beam fixed to the wall and on the inside of the cornice. It is recommended to provide holes or gaps in homemade soffits for free ventilation of the under-roof space. |
So, it is obvious that when installing a roof using corrugated sheets, it will be very difficult to do without several reliable and, preferably, experienced assistants. In addition, to eliminate the possibility of downtime, it is best to stock up on excess fasteners. Considering that the work is carried out at height, and you have to deal with material that has sharp cutting edges, safety issues, compliance with safety rules, the use of protective equipment and insurance should be given paramount attention.
And at the end of this publication, we present to our readers a video story in which the master shares his secrets for installing corrugated roofing:
Video: Features of installing a roof made of corrugated sheets
In individual residential buildings, the installation of roofs from profiled sheets over wooden sheathing must be done in compliance with technology and standards. Construction begins with installation work on the installation of rafters and sheathing. The rafter system is installed in the same way as when working with other structures.
But there are differences when arranging the sheathing. When arranging a roof from profiled flooring, the sheathing is made of wooden blocks with a section of 40x40 mm. Sometimes they are made from edged boards with a width of 100 mm and a thickness of 30. Lathing made from boards has a higher cost. This design will last longer. This fact is decisive for many owners. Many people understand that a stingy customer pays twice. Therefore, they immediately acquire reliable components, although their cost is high.
In this article
Profiled metal sheet
Modern material, affordable, practical. Has many advantages:
- light weight;
- strength;
- ease of calculating the consumption of components;
- high quality characteristics.
The lifespan of materials reaches 45 years. Therefore, the demand for this quality material is not accidental. The length of the sheets is different, reaching 13-14 m. For this reason, on slopes with a short length, the material is placed without overlaps or horizontal joints.
Types of lathing
The roof sheathing made of this material is made solid or with a thinned appearance. The device is located in the area of the structure’s overhangs. Or in the location of different junctions. And a continuous structure is made in the area where the ridge of the structure is located. This type of roof sheathing is considered correct.
As usual, when working with wood, all parts are treated with fire retardants and antiseptics. All costs of component materials must be indicated in the estimate for the work. These are protective agents against fire, rotting and against the appearance of microorganisms.
If the coating is completely sealed, this does not mean that moisture from the outside air will not destroy the elements over time. Its presence can cause wood to rot. Before installation, wooden blocks are nailed along the legs of the rafters.
Counter-lattice
It is designed to secure waterproofing and create gaps for ventilation under the coating. During operation, condensation appears on the surface of the material from the inside. This occurs when there are temperature changes in the air outside.
Waterproofing is fixed at the places where it passes. When condensed inclusions fall on the surface of the structure, the drops flow into gutters intended for drainage. Therefore, the waterproofing installed here plays an important role. It provides a metric focused on structural preservation.
The board is fixed to the body of the counter-lattice at predetermined distances, which are called steps. Its length depends on the angle of inclination of the structure and the type of profiled flooring purchased for the structure. There are special tables that can be used to determine: the pitch of elements intended for certain types of material.
They depend on the design of the rafters and the slope. This is how the installation of pitched roofs or completely different ones is carried out. If the size of the slope is greater than the length of the profiled sheet, then the material must be ordered in such a way that the fastening points in the transverse joints on the sheets fall on the boards in the sheathing.
Important: the overlap that is created between the rows of coating should be located in mm from 100 to 200. The slope of the structure should not be overlooked.
Adjacent sheets of material are laid with an overlap in only one wave. If all of the above types of work were performed correctly. Without any violations, the created structure will provide excellent tightness in operation. This will happen even in the off-season.
As soon as the installation work on arranging the sheathing, as well as waterproofing, has been completed, work on installing corrugated sheeting should begin. It starts from one of the corners on the slope located below.
If there is a capillary groove on the sheet of material, then it is advisable to carry out the work from the left edge of the structure. Then the edge of the subsequent element will cover the capillary groove located on the previous sheet.
Sometimes the design is somewhat more complex than an ordinary gable or single-pitch roof. And it is made up of planes that intersect. Yes, there are several more. Before starting installation steps, it is necessary to sketch out a detailed diagram on a sheet of paper. On it indicate the location of the sheets throughout the entire coating. It’s easier to work this way and there’s no confusion!
The first sheet of material is laid so that it protrudes slightly beyond the location of the pediment. Experts believe that this distance in mm should be 300. The overhang of the cornice at the side structure of the building should be between 300 and 400 mm.
Fixing the material
After placing the first sheet, secure it with a self-tapping screw. Then, with a longitudinal overlap, the subsequent sheet is installed and then temporarily secured. After placing three or four elements, the row is well trimmed, focusing on the cornice. Then all elements are fixed to the structure.
When securing adjacent sheets, rivets or shortened screws are used. If the slope of the entire roof is between 12 and 14 mm or even less, then both transverse overlaps and their longitudinal counterparts are well sealed using roofing sealants.
If all the work is done as indicated, the roof will be airtight. Due to the fact that the covering sheets are attached to the sheathing structure through the lower wave, it is considered responsible for the material.
Important: to strengthen sheets of profiled flooring, only self-tapping screws with press washers and gaskets made with neoprene rubber should be used. They are special! Self-activity in this work will only do harm.
Neoprene rubber and ordinary rubber differ both in properties and characteristics. When performing work, neoprene rubber tends to vulcanize. But it does not lose its original appearance and remains elastic. This is a property that ordinary rubber cannot provide. Therefore, there are no water leaks, and there cannot be any.
Self-tapping screws for roofing have a drill type tip. For this reason, they themselves can make holes in the body of the profiled sheet. But here you have to be careful. If the sheet of material has a thickness of more than 0.5, it is better to drill holes for fastening. The diameter of the holes should be slightly larger than that of the screws. This compensates for linear expansion of roof elements during possible temperature changes.
To work with self-tapping screws, screwdrivers and electric drills are used, the speed of which is adjustable. Properly used self-tapping screws press the gaskets very tightly to the sheet of material. The pressure washer must be free of defects after fastening!
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If thirty years ago the most common roofing material was asbestos-cement slate, today there is a huge selection of different coatings on the construction market. They differ in appearance, performance characteristics, cost and installation technology. Among all materials, corrugated sheets belong to the cheapest category. The quality and durability of such coatings are appropriate; this should be remembered and not made long-term plans. In this regard, profiled sheets are not recommended for use on residential buildings, especially prestigious cottages. Most often this material is used in garages, outbuildings and various sheds.
Corrugated sheet roofing is an excellent option for a gazebo
If you have a little practical experience in construction work, then installation of corrugated sheets can be done without the involvement of expensive professional specialists. We strongly do not recommend working alone; it is much better to call an assistant. Why?
Before installation of profiled sheets on the building, if necessary, preparatory work must be carried out.
| Type of preparatory work | Short description |
|---|---|
| If it is planned to build a residential attic (attic) in the house, then the roof must be insulated. Before covering the roof with corrugated sheets, steam and waterproofing should be done, and insulation should be installed in place. True, the order in which the warm cake is made may change, but in any case, wind protection must be installed before installing the corrugated sheets. |
| If these elements of engineering systems are built and installed before covering the roof, then the tightness of the roof is significantly increased and the risks of leaks are minimized. You should know that making holes in a finished roof for chimneys or ventilation is a very thankless task. These elements can fall not only under the sheathing, but also under the rafters; special technical measures must be used to maintain the integrity of the rafter system. |
| These works are much easier to do before installing the profiled sheets. In addition, in the case of a warm roof, only with this sequence can you then properly make drips to drain condensate. |
Basics of technology for installing corrugated sheets on wooden sheathing
There are several general rules, the implementation of which is strictly necessary.
Before starting work you need determine the number of sheets, taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes:
- angle up to 14° – overlap 200 mm;
- angle 15–30° – overlap 150–200 mm;
- angle more than 30° – overlap 100–150 mm.
If the angle of inclination is less than 12°, then the joints must be additionally sealed with bitumen mastics or other sealants.
It is quite easy to build a high-quality and durable roof from corrugated sheets yourself. It is only important to know what materials you need to take, how to properly attach the sheets to the sheathing and how to protect the internal under-roof space from dampness.
And we will pay special attention to additional elements that need to be bypassed in full compliance with technology. So, do your own corrugated roofing - step by step!
Preparing material: avoiding first mistakes
Once you have made accurate calculations for your roof, you can order profiled sheets. But, if you purchased corrugated sheeting, but for some reason its installation will have to be postponed (for example, prolonged rains), then store the sheets without removing the original packaging, on a flat surface and indoors. Additionally, beams must be placed under the sheets in increments of 50 cm.
Shift and move such roofing material carefully, holding the edges along the length and especially avoiding creases and deflections of the sheets. You also need to move the sheets carefully, because... modern polymer coating is especially sensitive to mechanical damage.
How to cut this material with abrasive cutting tools: fragments from the wheel will scratch, and significant heating will occur at the cutting site. But, if you had to work this way, then immediately cover all the damage with repair paint.
Fortunately, the technology for constructing a roof made from modern corrugated sheets will allow all work to be carried out in the warm season, from April to September, and you will not have to store the sheets for a long time.
Installation of corrugated sheets: step-by-step master classes
Let's first of all immediately understand the construction terms so that you don't have to look on the Internet for the meaning of each new word:
You will be surprised, but the same (at first glance) material needs to be laid in different ways. It's all about the manufacturers - everyone gives their own recommendations for installation, and they are really important. Because corrugated sheets from different companies are demanding in terms of their conditions, even if the differences are small. Therefore, carefully study the instructions supplied with the roofing material and do not completely trust hired workers who “have eaten the dog on such roofs” and are trying to do everything their own way.
Here is a simple example of how the installation of corrugated sheeting with a thickness of less than 0.7 cm and more durable differs:
And when working with such material, a wooden scaffold is no longer needed:
Imagine that the hired team will trample their feet on thin corrugated sheeting, because before that they “installed exactly the same roof for your neighbor” and “nothing was bent”? And now it will bend, and how, to which the would-be workers will declare that “that’s how it was.”
But, speaking in general, the main indicator of high-quality roof installation is tightness. After all, the roof serves precisely this purpose, so that all internal structures are protected from moisture and cold. And even an inconspicuous gap can become a serious problem: dampness, smudges, quickly deteriorating materials and fungus. That is why we will now analyze in detail all the subtle points.
A little about safety
The technology of metal roofing itself is not so complicated, but it is important not to damage the roofing covering during its installation. After all, although this material looks durable and tough, you still need to be careful when working with it:
- Walk on the finished metal profile flooring in soft shoes.
- Try to step only on the concave waves of the sheets and preferably directly on the screws.
- So, you can only step on your toes on the roof.
- Always place your foot parallel to the slope.
- There should only be one leg in one notch.
Construction of sheathing for corrugated sheets
The lathing for roof installation is either continuous, if the slope is small, or sparse, in increments of up to 5 meters. But with what step the roof sheathing is needed depends on how thick the corrugated sheets are:
Waterproofing and windproofing
Next, we think about how to properly make a roof pie. The modern market produces many waterproofing materials of various types and properties. We even have a whole separate article about this. But in general, focus on the following program of action:
- Step 1. So, fix the selected waterproofing material to the rafters. To do this, take the most ordinary construction stapler, but before installation, be sure to check whether you are laying the film or membrane on the wrong side. And glue the panels together with a special tape.
- Step 2. After this, we punch slats along the rafters (take a thickness of at least 2 cm) and thus form the ventilation gap necessary for ventilation.
- Step 3. Now we lay the roofing material along this top sheathing.
Here's what it all looks like in real life:
We select high-quality screws
The consumption of self-tapping screws when attaching corrugated sheets is usually about 6 pieces per 1 square meter. Suitable screws are 4.8 by 28-35 mm, as for wood, and for additional elements - 4.8 by 50 or 60 mm. As a tool, purchase a screwdriver with a special attachment or a cordless electric drill from the same manufacturers of roofing materials.
Special self-tapping screws for fastening corrugated sheets are indispensable, because... This is the only way to ensure:
- Fully waterproof roof.
- High connection strength.
- Minimal risk of injury to the coating during fastening, which means no corrosion in the future.
The highest quality and most reliable self-tapping screws for corrugated sheets are sold by the same suppliers that deal with sheets. If possible, use carbon or stainless steel screws with a zinc coating - these are ideal. But when purchasing, still carefully inspect all sealing washers.
How to properly attach corrugated sheets?
You can tell that you have secured the screw correctly by the metal washer - about 1 mm of the rubber gasket will protrude from it.
Screws must be screwed into the roofing material strictly perpendicularly, directly into the deflection of the vertical wave near the corrugated sheeting. Although there is a lot of controversy about this in the construction community, and each method has its own advantages. Thus, a self-tapping screw in the lower wave creates a more reliable fastening, and in the upper wave, rainwater has much less chance of getting into the under-roof space.
At the eave and ridge, you need to drive screws into the camber through the wave, and in the middle of the sheet into each sheathing board. In total you will need about 5-8 pieces per square meter.
What tools will be needed for installation?
Note that the construction of the roof itself from corrugated sheets is really within the power of even a person with little knowledge of construction. Of course, there are roofing materials that only experienced professionals can install correctly. But in the case of modern corrugated sheeting, we can reassure you: you can handle it yourself!
Fortunately, there is nothing complicated here. Thanks to the long length of the sheets, the roof slopes overlap without additional transverse joints, and the material itself can be easily cut and adjusted in shape. You will need a minimum of tools for this task:
So, corrugated sheeting can be laid on slopes of almost any inclination angle; it is only important to correctly calculate the amount of transverse overlap:
- 150-200 mm for roofs with 15-30°.
- 200 mm for a slope of 14°.
- 100-150° at large angles.
For fastening you will need self-tapping screws with special sealing washers:
In what order should the sheets be laid?
Many roofers install corrugated sheets this way: starting from the bottom row, first lay 4-5 sheets, and each of them is fixed with only one screw in the center. After this, the sheets are connected to each other with 4.8x19 mm self-tapping screws, which are installed in increments of 500 mm. Now they check how aligned the sheets are with the roof overhang, and finally fix the roofing material. Here's the scheme:
But, if you are working on the roof for the first time, to avoid distortion, attach the corrugated sheets according to the same pattern, but in this order:
- Step 1. Install the first sheet on the sheathing, and fasten it with one screw at the very ridge.
- Step 2. We lay the second sheet so that the lower edges of both sheets below form one perfectly straight line.
- Step 3. We fix the overlap along the top of the wave under the very first transverse fold.
- Step 4. We evaluate by eye how correctly the sheets are joined. Uneven? Then lift one sheet from the other, tilt it slightly from bottom to top, and again join fold by fold. Secure everything with self-tapping screws along the top of the waves.
- Step 5. So work with 3-4 sheets, carefully align them with the cornice and then install the remaining sheets.
The corrugated sheeting must be mounted to the base of the roof so that the edge offset is 40 mm from the eaves. This is necessary in order to leave a gap of optimal size on the ridge and the ventilation of the roof is not impaired. By the way, if the profiled sheets have a drainage groove, then each subsequent one should overlap the groove of the previous one.
Remember: when laying, you cannot step on the ridge of the sheets - they will bend. In general, for such work, installers wear soft shoes. That's all the subtleties!
Working with additional elements
Now let’s move on to our numerous additional elements. All of them, as a rule, are made in standard lengths: for polymer-coated roofing - 2 meters, for galvanized roofing - 2.5 meters. They complete the roofing work itself. The seal, which is traditionally placed between the roofing material and additional elements, allows them to fit more tightly to the sheets, further preventing moisture from entering under the roof and allowing it to “breathe.”
But to decorate ridges, cornices and other complex structures, you need to purchase special elements that are offered by the same manufacturer whose roofing material you purchased:
The additional elements must be fastened with the same 4.8 roofing screws as the base material. The only difference is that the metal roof is fastened with self-tapping screws 28-35 mm long, and the elements are fastened with self-tapping screws 50-60 mm long.
Valley and valley overlay
Now let’s look at such a mysterious name as “endova”. The valley and valley overlay are additional elements that duplicate each other, which are mounted at the internal convergence points of two differently directed slopes. The valley must be secured under the corrugated sheet.
Therefore, if the roof has a complex shape, with internal surface joints, then take a valley and a valley overlay as an additional element. This way you will give your roof a more neat and aesthetic appearance, additionally protecting complex transitions from moisture getting inside.
Aprons for pipes
The most important stage of the roof is the removal of pipes. Such pipes consist of two conventional parts - the lower one, which runs along the roof profile, and the upper one, the pipe itself. And, if the through passage of the pipe is on the lower part of the roof, it makes sense to install a snow block above the passage.
For a sewer ventilation system, an uninsulated pipe of about 10 cm in diameter, without a head, is passed through the roof. And for radon they take the same pipe, but with a head. Remember that these pipes cannot be connected to ordinary ventilation pipes, because... for those, insulated elements with a diameter of 125 mm are already used.
The pipe itself can be installed both before the installation of the roof begins and after completion. If you chose the second option, then you will need to cut a hole for the pipe in the finished roof and temporarily cover it with some material. During the finishing work, pipe cuttings will need to be made from galvanized steel aprons or more modern materials like Wakaflex.
Here's a good tutorial on how to do it:
Dormer window
Now we are working with the dormer window. So, we cut the corrugated sheet into two parts at the lower end of the gutter, install the bottom sheet, then the bottom gutter strip, and only then the top roofing sheet.
Snow holder
The snow holder is mounted in places where there is a risk of snow rolling down. For corrugated sheeting, this is usually the second line at a distance of 30-40 cm from the eaves. For installation, use 4.8x50 self-tapping screws through 1-2 waves of the profile.
External and internal corner
If the slope changes its direction, then additional finishing elements such as internal and external corners and transition are used. Their main task is to create maximum tightness and give the joint of sheets an aesthetic appearance.
Adjacency
An abutment is an additional element that serves as a rim for a chimney or to protect the junction of the roof and the wall:
Cornice, end and joint strips
And here are your instructions:
- Install the end strips from the side of the roof overhang, towards the ridge.
- Just cut off the excess part of the end strip.
- Secure the plank to the end board and the corrugated sheets in the ridge with screws in increments of up to 1 meter. If you did everything correctly, the end strip will cover at least one wave of the roofing profile.
- Attach the end strip with wood screws 4.8x60 or 4.8x50, directly to the wooden base. Leave the step from 30 to 50 cm and make sure that the end strip completely covers the end of the outer wave of corrugated board.
Now we proceed to the installation of the joint connecting strip. Its length is 2 m, and the overlap of the planks cannot be less than 1 meter. The joint strip is taken 2 meters long, and the two strips are attached to each other with an overlap of at least 1 meter. The additional element should be attached to the wall in a groove, or hide everything under the wall sheathing.
The main purpose of the eaves strip is to protect the under-roof space from precipitation, especially in rain with strong winds. And the lower the roof slope, the more necessary this additional element is. But you need to attach the cornice strip before the corrugated sheets. Overlap – 100 mm.
Ridge installation
After all the roofing material has been laid, we attach the ridge. We pre-line the joints between the ridge and the roof with a sealant. Ridge elements for trapezoidal roofing sheets are usually smooth. It is advisable to place ventilated seals between them and the profiled sheets, and for small corrugations - special ridge seals.
We fasten the ridge with self-tapping screws on both sides at a distance of 2-3 waves. It is important that the ridge itself covers all the first screws that hold the sheets of roofing material. The ridge strips must overlap each other with an overlap of at least 1 meter, and we fasten the elements to the roofing sheets with self-drilling screws in increments of up to 3 meters.
An important point: the smaller the angle of inclination of the roof, the wider the ridge itself should be. So, the most standard sizes are 140x140 mm or 200x200 mm.
But today it is more fashionable and rational to order a figured skate, which comes in two parameters: 110x30x110 mm and 145x50x145 mm. There are also special types of ridge for complex roofing, when multidirectional slopes come together.
Care of corrugated roofing
Snow on a roof made of corrugated sheets lingers quite a bit, and therefore there is no need to clean it. But, if you need to carry out certain repairs, then arm yourself with small plastic shovels that will not leave scratches.
Caring for a roof made of corrugated sheets is quite simple: the rain itself will wash away all the dirt and dust, and you only have to clean the gutters and drainage systems from clogged fallen leaves once a year.
If for some reason more serious cleaning is necessary, then use ordinary water and a hose with a pressure of up to 50 bar. Detergents can only be used that are intended for painted surfaces, and “White spirit” will help to deal with stubborn stains.
As you can see, nothing complicated!