Hemming of roof overhangs with boards. Roof overhang trim: features

Finishing the roof eaves is the last stage of roof installation. The edges are sewn along the perimeter of the facade, this is necessary to protect the edge from seasonal precipitation and strong winds. How to do it yourself?

Roof with roofing and eaves finishing

Installation of cornices (overhangs)

Overhangs are the lower edge of the roof of a house, which extends beyond the level of the facade. This removal is necessary to protect the pediment and other walls from precipitation. The overhang can be different, narrow or wide, from 40 cm to 1 m. In principle, it is not necessary to hem this part of the roof, but the absence of hemming can lead to some troubles.
For example, too strong a wind can tear the roof off the roof, so you will have to spend money on repairs. And the appearance of the inside of the roof, visible from the side of the house, leaves much to be desired - bare rafters and insulation do not look very nice and are unlikely to harmonize with the overall decoration. This house seems unfinished. Lining the roof with siding, plywood, metal sheets, etc. will help avoid such troubles. According to the rules, finishing of overhangs occurs only after complete installation of the roof and finishing of the facade.

The difference between an overhang from the gable side and an overhang

Overhangs are divided into cornice and pediment. The first option is horizontal, this is the very bottom of the slopes, and the pediment is their side part.

Features of the eaves overhang

This part of the roof prevents cold and damp air from entering the attic if the roof is built according to the attic type. If it is an attic, then the air circulates from the overhang to the ridge of the roof - this is natural ventilation.


Roof finishing scheme

An overhang clogged with boards will interfere with ventilation, but if the roof is not hemmed at all, then mice, birds or insects will live under the roof. Wooden rafters must be covered with a protective layer of paint so that water cannot damage them.

Important: in order not to interfere with ventilation, you need to hem the cornices loosely and create ventilation gaps.

How to do ventilation:

  1. Leave a gap between the walls and the internal sheathing of the eaves. If the cornice is finished with corrugated board, then the gap is no more than 1.2 cm, but if the cornice is made of siding, then up to 1.5 cm.
  2. Ventilation grilles are installed for metal sheets and lining.
  3. In board overhangs, small gaps are left between the boards - 0.5-1 cm.
  4. When decorating the eaves of a house with soffit strips, you can use perforated panels for ventilation.

For good ventilation, it is worth considering the correct size of the gaps; they should be at least 1/500 of the ventilated area. Bituminous and seam roofing requires wider gaps than tile roofing.
To prevent insects, leaves, dirt and small birds from penetrating under the roof, ventilation holes must be covered with gratings or mesh; the choice of material depends on the width and type of holes.


Covered vents keep snow out

Features of gable overhangs

This is the side part of the slope, protruding above the gable wall itself. In this case, ventilation is not required, only protection from water and wind. If this part of the slopes is not sheathed, then the wind can bring water under the roof, causing the insulation to get wet and deteriorate, ceasing to perform its functions.

Important: when finishing the roof from the facade side, first of all you need to take care of the tightness.

Finishing nuances

The overhangs from the façade of the house and the side walls have unprotected elements. For eaves these are the ends of the rafters, and for the pediment this is the end side of the sheathing. They need not only to be given an aesthetic appearance, but also to be protected from the adverse effects of the environment - wind and precipitation. Among other things, a drain is required, which is installed along the side overhangs. In fact, the finishing of the end of the overhang is the covering of the edge of the roof. The material for lining largely depends on what the roof is made of; this also determines the method of installation. Often, complete with roofing coverings, a ready-made kit for covering overhangs is supplied.


Proper roof finishing

Before stitching the edge of the roof, it is important to evenly trim all rafters protruding from under the roof. To do this evenly, you need to put pencil marks at an equal distance from the wall. After that, the ends of the rafters are combined with each other with a special strapping board, onto which, in turn, the front board is nailed, most often the material for it is metal. Metal board often comes with ceramic or metal roofing.

This part can be made of wood, but then it must be coated with paint or protective varnish. Frontal boards are also intended for installation of gutters.
The body kit on the gable side is processed slightly differently. The first step is to cut off the sheathing boards sticking out from under the roof strictly parallel to the wall. The end board, regardless of the material, is nailed directly to the sheathing or to the ridge. The end side of the board is covered with a roof along its entire length.

Types of cornice filing

Despite the fact that the finishing of overhangs can be done using a variety of materials, the finishing technologies themselves are not very diverse - there are only two of them. When choosing a sheathing, take into account the colors and texture of the roof and the design of the façade.

  • Rafter method


Rafter roof diagram

This type of finishing of overhangs is very simple; the most important condition is that the ends of the rafters are cut flush. This method is suitable for small roofs set at a slope of up to 30 degrees; the offset in such cases does not exceed 0.5 m. The trim strips are nailed strictly along the board sheathing; they can be fixed parallel to the wall along the eaves or perpendicular.

  • Horizontal method

This is the best finishing option if the roof is not flat, but rather very steep. At the same time, the horizontal method is very fast and the most economical - less material is needed. Before work, it is important to construct a box of beams attached to both the walls and the rafters. Sheathing boards are nailed in the direction from the corners of the roof itself to the corners of the walls. If the length of the wooden overhang exceeds 45 cm, the work is carried out perpendicular to the walls. Also, such large overhangs will require additional longitudinal bars for reinforcement.
The overhang from the façade of the house is finished only with sheathing. You can hem the overhang in any way. Before sheathing, boards or beams are nailed onto the sheathing, and planks are attached to them along the pediment, longitudinally or perpendicularly.

How to hem the roof

The choice of material depends on the overall style of the house. The color and material of the cladding should be in harmony with the walls and roof. A wooden facade and plastic roof cladding will look, to put it mildly, very strange.


Roof sheathing materials

Finishing overhangs with wooden boards

It is best to choose pine or other coniferous trees for this purpose; the width of the boards varies from 5 to 25 cm, and the thickness from 1.7 to 2.2 cm. The boards must be covered with a protective layer of varnish or paint before nailing them to the overhang . The boards cannot be used immediately; they must lie for about 30 days, protected from rain, in the open air, so as not to crack from dryness or warp from moisture. The tree must “get used” to environmental conditions.
When covering a wooden overhang, it is necessary to leave 1-1.5 cm gaps between the boards for ventilation. On wide eaves of the house, the boards are nailed in three places; for narrow eaves, it is enough to hammer nails only on two sides. When installing longitudinally, the boards are fixed every meter.
Natural shades of wood match any roof and façade colors.

Lining

These wooden planks have one advantage over boards - they do not need to be further processed, because they are already produced with a protective coating. For this reason, lining is incredibly popular. For the final finishing of roofs, it is better to take material with moisture-resistant impregnation.


Covering cornices with clapboard

As in the case of simple boards, the lining must rest in the air for 30 days before being installed. The panels are attached exactly according to the same principles as the boards, except that there is no need for gaps - they are replaced by ventilation grilles installed every 1.5 meters.

Metal sheets

The most common materials used to sheathe the roof of a house are steel, aluminum and copper. Finished sheets are produced up to 6 m in length and 0.6-0.8 in thickness. Steel sheets require additional anti-corrosion treatment, unlike aluminum or copper. The role of ventilation is performed either by ready-made grilles installed at the required distance, or by perforated metal pieces. The disadvantage of metal sheets is that you will need a special tool to cut them.

Plywood and OSB boards

To finish roofs, only waterproof grades of plywood are needed. The slabs are mounted in large pieces, so the work will take very little time. The plywood is attached to a pre-made wooden box made from blocks. The role of ventilation is played by ready-made grilles embedded in plywood or OSB. Since these materials look rather unsightly without treatment, they must be painted to match the walls of the facade or roof.


Sheathing the roof with sheets of waterproof plywood

Soffit finishing

Soffits are strips that are produced specifically for covering cornices. The material can be different - PVC or metal. Soffit cladding looks quite aesthetically pleasing; the slats are available in different colors and textures, so they will suit the exterior decoration of any home.
What is included:

  • soffits;
  • chamfers;
  • profiles with grooves for installing planks;
  • finishing strips.

Soffits are available for the pediment - double, triple and solid. For cornices, a special perforated version of this finishing material is provided.
Soffits are easy to install, so you can easily finish the overhangs yourself, without the help of professionals. The planks are cut to the width of the overhang and attached to profiles pre-installed on a wooden lattice.

How to sheathe an overhang with soffits

Methods for installing planks differ depending on the material from which the planks are made, the manufacturer and fasteners. For the reasons listed above, do not ignore the instructions. The above example discusses the principle of roof sheathing with vinyl planks.
Soffits are most often installed horizontally, but sometimes they are attached along the rafters perpendicular to the wall. Before installing the planks, a grille must be made; it is on this that the profiles and the soffits themselves are attached.


Soffit finishing scheme

Work order:

  1. First of all, mark the J-profiles along the length of the overhang.
  2. Cut the profiles according to the marks using a grinder - this will speed up the process, and the cuts themselves will be even.
  3. Secure the profiles to the wooden grid with self-tapping screws.
  4. To correctly cut soffit strips, measure the distance between the two closest profiles and apply markings.
  5. The plank is first inserted into the overhang near the wall and only then into the eaves. The soffits are attached using self-tapping screws directly to the bars of the lattice.
  6. When using a J-chamfer, the frontal part of the cornice is also finished with soffit strips.

Roof sheathing work is quite simple. In order for everything to work out correctly, it is necessary to select a material that is suitable not only for the tone of the gable and roof, but also corresponding to the climatic conditions.

After installing the roof, it is necessary to carry out work on its cladding. The binder will perform three functions at once:

  • it will give the house a finished look;
  • will provide roof ventilation;
  • will protect the facade.

Today we will talk abouthow to hem a roof eavesand what should be used for this.

A cornice refers to rafters that protrude beyond the boundaries of the building's façade. This cornice comes in:

  • frontal;
  • lateral.

Let's look at each of them.

The main function of the front overhang is to protect the facade. Essentially, these are the side edges of the roof slopes; therefore, a hip roof, which has 4 slopes, does not have such edges.

If we are talking aboutgable roof(and in most houses this is exactly the case), then the supporting beams installed on the rafters are released outside. You can also often see an overhang of sheathing boards laid under the roof on top of a vapor barrier. The main cornice board is attached to them, which is subsequently sheathed (more on this later).

Side overhang

Every sloping type roof has such an overhang. It is created by rafters extending beyond the walls of the building. The length of the projection depends on the blind area and the height of the building, but in most cases it ranges from 60 to 70 cm.

Despite the norms, sometimes narrower cornices are found. This can be fixed in two ways:

  • reliably protect the wall from the wind, since in slanting rain it will get very wet;
  • installing fillers to increase the length of the rafters is a more labor-intensive procedure that few people want to perform (after all, you will have to open the roof that has already been made).

That's why the required length of the cornice should be considered at the design stage.

Along the entire cornice, the rafters are fastened with boards - in the future they need to be covered with facing material.

As already stated, cornices protect the roof and façade of the building from precipitation. But at the same time, they should not become an obstacle to the natural ventilation of the space under the roof. And this applies not only to attics, but also to ordinary “cold” roofs.

The heated air, rising from below, must freely overcome the eaves, pass between the roof and the vapor barrier and exit through the ridge. That is why When installing the overhang, do not use foam or sealant, otherwise condensation will occur and, as a result, the insulation will get wet.

Note! Only the side cornices should be ventilated, while the front ones must be sealed tightly.

About the choice of materials for the overhang

Today there are quite a lot of materials for cornices, each with its own pros and cons. Nevertheless, they all very effectively provide ventilation and protect the roof from moisture. When choosing one or another of the materials, pay attention not only to its appearance, but also to its service life.

This material is galvanized steel coated with polymer spraying. Corrugated sheeting is resistant to heavy loads, temperature changes, and has suitable rigidity. Between the layer of corrugated sheeting and the surface of the wall, you need to leave a gap that would be equal to the height of the waves of the material.

A more popular material used in the construction of roof eaves, which is nothing more than siding, but with ventilation holes. Another difference between the material is the use of specialultraviolet stabilizers, protecting the cornice from the harmful effects of sunlight.

Soffits are divided into several types depending on the material used in manufacturing.

  1. Characteristic feature copper soffits is durability and presentability, but at the same time high cost. Such soffits are very durable and non-flammable.

  2. They cost less, which is why they are more popular when filing overhangs. They are light in weight and have a pleasant appearance, yet they effectively protect the roof from moisture. The installation procedure is quite simple. The result is a seamless fabric that provides good ventilation. Today there are several types of vinyl soffits -solid three stripes, perforated and perforated three stripes.

  3. Galvanized soffitsgood because they do not require constant self-care. They are characterized by strength, fire and moisture resistance. The only drawback can be considered to be the large weight, which is why the installation procedure can be quite labor-intensive.

  4. They are lightweight and elastic; if necessary, they can be easily repaired. In addition, the paint that is applied to the aluminum surface is very durable, which is why the color does not fade even with prolonged exposure to sunlight. The only disadvantage of aluminum soffits is the undiversified palette, consisting only ofbrown or white.

No matter what new materials appear, and even today, overhangs made ofreal wood. In this case, you need to select the material very carefully, because the cornice will be located on the street and, therefore, exposed to aggressive environmental influences. There is no need to save money and buy thinner lining - try to keep the thickness of the material at least 2 centimeters. The humidity of the lining should be at an average level.

Note! A lining that is too wet is absolutely not suitable, because it will definitely “lead”.

The boards need to be nailed two centimeters from the wall to ensure good ventilation.

You can hem the overhang using one of two available methods:

  • along the rafters;
  • on a wooden box.

Overhang on raftersSuitable only for roofs with a slight slope. This method is complicated in that as a result the edges of the rafters must form a flat plane. This is not always possible, so the only solution may be small planks, length from the edge of the canopy to the wall, attached to the rafters. To nail them evenly, you first need to pull the twine and align it. For fastening useiron corners or screws.

Cornice on a wooden boxPerfect for roofs with a significant slope. To construct this box, you need to take a 40 mm thick board and secure it between the rafters and the wall surface. If one edge of the board is attached to the rafter leg, then additional installation of a second board, vertical, will be required.

The box is finished, now you can start attaching the sheathing.

Note! The sheathing should be secured with screws, but not nails - this will provide the necessary rigidity.

The installation procedure consists of the following steps.

First stage . It is necessary to equip the soffits with a pair of special strips in the form of the Latin letters F and L. The first needs to be secured on the side of the cornice, the second - on a special strip attached to the wall. All fastenings are made using self-tapping screws. It is advisable to pre-mark everything so that the planks lie evenly.

Second phase . Then you need to measure the cornice and subtract 6 millimeters from the resulting figure - this will allow you to create a gap to compensate for thermal expansion. Next, you need to cut the soffits into strips of the required length.

Third stage . The soffits need to be slightly bent and inserted into the installed profiles. Self-tapping screws are also used to secure them.

What you need to know when installing soffits

  1. It is not advisable to carry out workat temperatures below 15°C,let the manufacturers talk about the possibility of installation even in winter.
  2. Soffits need to be installed only at an angle of 90°C.
  3. Soffits should be stored only on a flat surface, in stacks of 15-20 pieces.
  4. You should always leave the gap mentioned above.
  5. To cut soffits, you need to use a “circular saw” with reverse teeth (you can also use special metal scissors).
  6. The length of the screws must be at least 3 millimeters.
  7. The step between the fasteners should be a maximum of 40 centimeters.

Corrugated sheeting technology

First stage . First, a block should be nailed to the wall in a horizontal position, strictly at the level of the overhang. In parallel, a second block is attached at the same level, this time along the rafters.

Second phase . Then you need to cut strips of corrugated board (not forgetting about the same thermal expansion) and attach them with self-tapping screws to the bars.

Third stage . The joints are decorated with strips of the outer and inner corners.

Actually, the installation of corrugated sheets is complete.

Clapboard hemming technology

It is advisable to carry out this procedure from below, using a stepladder or scaffolding.

Note! The cornice can be hemmed only after completion of external insulation, installation of moisture insulation and cladding.

First you need to check if all the rafters are the same length and if they are installed parallel to the wall. Then you need to attach the wind boards to them and only then proceed with installation.

First stage . Screw the board to the wall in a vertical position. The bottom edge of the board should be flush with the rafters.

Second phase . Secure the next board between the previous one and the rafters, aligning along the bottom edge. The result will be a base - and you need to install the sheathing on it.

Third stage . The frame is covered with boards. Traditionally, a slight gap should be left between them and the surface. The boards should be smooth, approximately 20 millimeters thick.

Note! To ensure ventilation, it is advisable to install special grilles every one and a half meters.

Although it is worth noting: few builders do this, relying on the fact that wood has the ability to “breathe”.

Conclusion

As a result, I would like to note that upon completion of installation, the installed material must be treated with an antiseptic agent - it will provide additional protection for it. If you follow all the selection and installation instructions given here, the cornice will last a long time and look great.

Video - Lining the roof with soffit

The gable and eaves overhang of a corrugated roof are the projections of the roof beyond the walls of the house. The projections on the side of the slopes are called cornice, and the projections on the side of the pediment, respectively, are called pediment.

Lining the roof eaves with wood-look corrugated sheets

The overhangs are sewn up last - it is also important that the under-roof space is ventilated with a strong air flow in case of unexpected rain or the insulation gets wet due to a large amount of condensation caused by a strong temperature difference. At the same time, for such roofs from metal profiles, as a rule, the eaves are made from corrugated sheets, rather than being hemmed with standard soffits.

Why is this solution better than the standard one? Why do you need to cover the eaves overhang from below? The answers to these questions, as well as detailed instructions on how to hem the roof eaves with corrugated sheets with your own hands, are in the main part of the article.

Why do you need cornice hemming?

Both eaves and gable overhangs of corrugated roofing must be sewn up from below. Despite the apparent insignificance of this stage of construction, it is undesirable to leave the roof without covering for a long time, especially in late autumn or winter. Otherwise, due to the constant wetting of the ends of the rafters, even wood treated with protective compounds can be affected by rot, fungus or mold.

So after finishing on the slopes, you need to sheathe the cornice with corrugated sheeting as quickly as possible. Stitching performs four important functions.

Firstly, protects the roof from moisture. Although this happens infrequently, in a strong wind, raindrops can fly through the projections of the slopes into the under-roof space, so lining the eaves with a corrugated sheet protects the rafters, sheathing and insulation from getting wet.

Secondly, reduces heat loss through the roof. The roof is ventilated, among other things, through a cornice made of corrugated sheets, but this air flow is weak because it passes through very small gaps and holes. If metal sheathing sheets do not interfere with its passage, then an excessively strong air flow will blow through the under-roof space, significantly increasing heat loss through the roof.

Third, protects the under-roof space from insects, bats, birds. It's no secret that the roof is a favorite nesting place for birds. They make their nests out of insulation and stain the attic with feathers and droppings - and this is not only unpleasant to look at, but also dangerous, because birds carry dozens of serious diseases. Lining the overhangs with corrugated sheets greatly complicates the penetration of birds into the roof.

Finally, fourthly, improves the appearance of the roof. Protruding rafters with other “insides” of the roof, exposed to everyone, are not the most aesthetically pleasing sight. Sewn overhangs made of corrugated sheets acquire a regular rectangular shape and make the entire roof a complete architectural ensemble.


Lining the roof overhangs with corrugated sheeting gives the roof of the house a complete and neat look

The eaves overhang of corrugated sheeting is not sheathed only in small outbuildings. In addition, unlined slopes are found in houses with, but rarely - even if the house is designed with a non-residential attic, the rafter system still needs to be protected from moisture, and the attic itself from birds and other unwanted residents.

How to hem the roof eaves: soffit or corrugated sheeting?

Typically, cornice and gable overhangs are covered with soffits - panels that resemble perforations. But instead of spotlights, you can use other materials: wooden blocks, vinyl panels,. Of course, soffits are easier to install and through them the under-roof space is better ventilated, but other materials, especially corrugated sheets, have their advantages:

  1. Longer service life. The metal thickness and anti-corrosion quality of profiled sheets, with the exception of ultra-budget material, are higher. Therefore the service life is longer.
  2. Profiled sheet is cheaper. Soffits, as specialized ones, cost more than regular profiled sheets. And if you are sheathing a roof overhang made of corrugated sheets with a metal profile, then the sheathing will generally be free for you - it will be used for the scraps remaining after installing the roofing.
  3. Perfect color match. Even if the soffit manufacturer uses the same color as the profiled sheet manufacturer, the actual shades may differ significantly. If you buy material from the same company, then this is excluded.
  4. Great strength. Although there is no special load on the eaves overhang of the corrugated sheet, the greater strength of the metal profile is important: this material is much more difficult to damage during transportation or installation.
  5. Diversity. Soffits are available in 2-3 forms, while the number of possible corrugated sheet profiles is in the tens, if not hundreds. The same goes for flowers.

For these reasons, it is better to hem the roof eaves made of corrugated sheets with a profiled sheet. With the exception of roofs with a very slight slope - in this case, due to the practically absent height difference between the ridge and the lower part of the slope, the draft is minimal, therefore, for good ventilation of the under-roof space, it is important that the lining material has perforations.

How to hem a cornice with corrugated sheeting: design of an overhang, list of materials, instructions

As a rule, covering the eaves with corrugated sheeting is done using a special box, onto which sheets of metal profiles with additional elements are then attached. But a simpler design is possible, when the corrugated sheet is fixed on the back side of the rafters, which is why it is not located horizontally to the ground, but at the same angle as the roof slope. This kind of lining of roof overhangs with corrugated sheets is called diagonal and is only suitable for roofs with a slight slope.

Dimensions of roof overhang made of corrugated sheets

Regardless of the type of lining, the minimum overhang of a corrugated roof is 500 mm, but it is usually made wider - up to 700 mm.

Horizontal lining of roof eaves with corrugated sheeting is suitable for roofs with any slope, so we will describe the procedure for its installation.

First, prepare the cornice assembly itself. To do this you need:

  • Level the overhang by cutting off the protruding parts of the rafters or building them up with wooden blocks (fillies) to the required width of the eaves overhang.
  • Install the front board so that its outer corner is in a straight line that continues the line of the rafters.
  • Place a drip.
  • Install waterproofing.
  • Make a counter-lattice.
  • Secure the ventilation tape to the ends of the sheathing bars.
  • Install drain hooks.
  • Attach.
  • Lay the roof covering.

For more information on how to design a roof overhang made of corrugated sheets, read this article.

Only after this is the roof eaves finished with corrugated sheeting.

What tools and materials will you need:

  • Front plate with a fold bent in the shape of the letter “L”.
  • A wooden block or edged board with a width of 40 mm.
  • J-profile.
  • Profiled sheet.
  • Scissors for metal or any other.
  • Self-tapping screws for metal with rubber washers.
  • A hammer drill if the house is made of brick, foam block and other similar materials.
  • Screwdriver.
  • Dowels or wood screws.
  • Building level.
  • Ruler.
  • Pencil or marker.

How to sheathe a cornice with corrugated sheeting: step-by-step instructions

Lining the roof eaves with corrugated sheets, as well as laying sheets on the roof, is carried out at an air temperature no higher than +30 °C. This limitation is due to the thermal expansion of the metal. At negative temperatures, it is also undesirable to install a profiled sheet, but if there is such a need, then this can only be done when the thermometer is above the -15 ° C mark.

Attach the corrugated sheet correctly

To secure the metal profile cornice, use roofing screws with a self-sealing rubber washer. This reduces the rate of development of corrosion processes at the attachment point.

Begin hemming the cornice with a corrugated sheet by installing a support bar on the wall of the house. It is placed so that its lower edge is exactly at the level of the lower edge of the front board. To do this, use a building level and a marker to mark the fastening line. Then the beam or board is temporarily attached to the wall either with several screws if the house is wooden, or with dowels in pre-drilled holes if the walls are made of brick, stone or other similar materials. After this, the horizontality is checked again with a building level and, if everything is in order, the timber is finally secured every 300-400 mm.

  • After the entire profiled sheet is fixed, install the front strip, screwing it with roofing screws in the center every 400-500 mm. The overlap between the slats is 100-150 mm.
  • This completes the covering of the roof eaves with corrugated sheeting.

    Not everywhere you can buy a front plate. You can use a standard external corner strip instead.

    What's the result?

    Sheathing the eaves with corrugated sheets is an important final stage of roof installation. It protects the elements of the roofing pie from getting wet, dirty, excessive ventilation, and infestation by birds and insects. In addition, it gives the roof a finished look.

    Unlike standard soffits, lining roof overhangs with corrugated sheets costs less, will last longer, and better matches the color of the roofing. Therefore, the profiled sheet should not only be laid on the roof, but also used to decorate the eaves assembly.

    The filing of overhangs with corrugated sheeting is carried out after the cornice assembly is almost completely ready: the front board, the cornice strip, and the roofing itself must be installed. At the same time, the process itself is simple - it is complicated only by working at height. Therefore, you can easily make a cornice from corrugated sheets with your own hands. And if it is not possible to buy all the necessary additional elements, feel free to replace them with standard external and internal corner strips.

    The installation of the roof will not be complete if the roof lining is not completed. This stage of construction work forms the final appearance of the building and ensures protection of the facade and foundation from moisture, and therefore must be carried out with special care.

    Any roof has certain design features, for example, overhangs that hang over the walls of the building or over the pediment. Accordingly, they are called cornice (side) or frontal (pediment).

    The overhang, or as they used to say, eaves, protrudes beyond the wall of the house and protects it and the foundation from excess moisture (so that rain or melt water rolling down the roof does not fall on the walls and wash away the foundation) and shades the facade from bright sunlight. As a rule, the width of overhangs ranges from 40 to 100 cm. For a wooden house, overhangs are made from 55 cm wide and up to 120 cm, for a brick house - up to 55 cm.

    Lining a flat roof allows you to make an overhang of smaller width than a steep one, since in the first case the trajectory of precipitation from the roof will go far beyond the boundaries of the blind area and, of course, the walls.

    Technologies for installing overhangs (eaves) may differ depending on the roof structure and the length of the slopes. Hemming a gable roof, for example, is easier to do than a hip roof.

    The most basic way to create a roof overhang is to use rafter legs. They should protrude beyond the perimeter of the walls. The wider the overhang, the longer the rafter legs should be. But there is one small but very significant nuance in this technology - the weight of the rafter system increases and the loads on the enclosing structures and, ultimately, on the foundation increase.

    The second technique makes it possible to create a lightweight structure with minimal consumption of materials. Since there is no load on the overhangs, you can build up rafter legs using “fillies” - pieces of edged boards, which, naturally, are much thinner than the rafters. The fillies allow you to mount eaves overhangs from lighter (which makes installation easier) and cheaper building materials.

    Fillers are also used when the length of the roof slope exceeds the maximum standard length of lumber - 6 m.

    The advantage of using fillets is that with their help you can create a new line of the roof slope (by changing the shape of the roof overhang), because they are attached at the desired angle. In addition, if you decorate the protruding part of the fillies with carvings, the structure as a whole will become more elegant.

    The fillies are attached to the rafters. For more reliable fixation, roofing nails are used, which are driven through (through the rafters and the board being applied) from opposite sides, doing this in a checkerboard pattern at a distance of 15 cm, and their protruding parts (30-40 mm) are bent. The fillets are attached to at least four nails to ensure a secure connection.

    Not hemmed and hemmed

    An overhang is a continuation of the roof and an integral part of it, so it is necessary to choose the right type of overhang, taking into account the composition of the roofing pie and the climatic conditions of the area where the house is located. Roof overhangs can be either unlined or hemmed.

    Sometimes the overhangs are not hemmed so that decorative supports (protruding parts of the rafters or fillets), which are an element of the exterior, are visible. In this case, all work is carried out as carefully as possible so as not to spoil their aesthetic appeal. But we must take into account that unlined overhangs increase windage, and a strong gust of wind can tear off the roofing material, especially in areas with high wind loads.

    Unlined overhangs are left on gable, single-pitch or hip (hipped) roofs.

    A variety of materials are used as roof lining.

    It is recommended to hem overhangs on any type of roof, regardless of the shape, angle of inclination or width of the eaves. After all, this allows not only to improve the decorative qualities of the structure, but also to protect it from aggressive environmental influences.

    Ventilation is important!

    The lining of the roof overhangs should not impede the passage of air and impede the natural ventilation of the space under the roof. This applies to both cold and insulated roofs with residential attics.

    When filing eaves overhangs, it is not allowed to use polyurethane foam or any sealants so that condensation does not form and the roofing pie does not get wet.

    Ventilation grilles installed in the roof sheathing and gaps between the sheathed eaves and the wall will provide natural ventilation and significantly extend the life of the roof itself. But only the side overhangs should be ventilated, and the front overhangs should be sewn up tightly.

    It should be noted that hemming of cornices is done not only in new houses, but also in old ones. Therefore, in such buildings, before sewing up the overhang, it is necessary to carefully examine the roof structure, and most importantly, all protruding elements. What does not hold well must be fixed, what is rotten must be removed (cut off or sawed off, replacing with good wood) and only after all detected defects have been eliminated, the surface must be treated with an antiseptic, and then the filing can begin.

    Along the rafters and along the frame

    There are two main methods for lining roof overhangs: along the rafters and along a wooden frame. Roof overhangs with a slight slope are usually hemmed along the rafters. The location of the mounted sheathing will also correspond to this angle of inclination.

    Before you start sheathing the overhang, you need to align the protruding legs of the rafters (fillies), for which you pull the cord and saw off the excess parts parallel to the plane of the wall. And if some rafters turn out to be a little shorter, then these deviations are corrected with the help of cutting boards, which are nailed to the rafter legs that stand out from the general row. Only after the line is completely leveled does work related to filing the overhangs begin.

    Wooden box

    Constructing a box is a more troublesome method, entailing additional consumption of materials, but this filing method is ideal for roofs with a large angle of inclination. The frame of the box is made from two pieces of thick board (40 mm) or block.

    The design of the box is simple: one piece of board (or block) is placed close to the wall, its upper part is attached to the rafters, and the lower part is connected to a second board, one end of which is fixed to the lower part of the rafter leg. It turns out a triangle, the middle part of which is the rafter leg (the number of triangles corresponds to the number of installed rafters).

    To give rigidity to the wooden box, it is additionally fixed with metal corners. After installing the box and sheathing, they begin to line the overhang with the material chosen for this purpose: edged boards, wooden lining, siding, soffits, corrugated sheets.

    The installation of front overhangs is slightly different from the installation of side overhangs. To install a pediment cornice, the ridge board is made a little longer so that it extends beyond the perimeter of the pediment by the required distance, the sheathing crossbars should protrude the same amount, the cornice board is attached to their ends, and then the lower part of the pediment overhang is hemmed.

    The eaves can be hemmed after the installation of the rafter system or after the installation of the roofing material has already been completed - there is no fundamental difference in the order of work. But, if external insulation of the building is planned, then the roof lining is carried out only after the insulation work has been carried out. And it doesn’t matter whether you sheathe the overhang perpendicular to the facade or along it.

    Sheathing board

    A good option for cladding is a board 15-20 mm thick. Its width is chosen based on the width of the cornice and the desired decorative effect - ranging from 50 to 250 mm. It is desirable that the materials used do not have significant deviations in size, otherwise the appearance of the created structure will deteriorate.

    Hemming a wooden overhang does not create any particular difficulties during installation. The board allows you to ensure natural ventilation of the roof, because no matter how hard you try, there will still be gaps between the wooden elements; in addition, when hemming the frame, they usually leave small gaps between the boards (10-15 mm) and then there will be no need to cut in a ventilation grille.

    If the length of the boards is not enough, they are joined offset: so that a through seam does not form, and they are attached to the frame in several places to prevent deformation.

    The sheathing at the corners of hip roofs is joined at an angle of 45 degrees.

    The tree is not very resistant to aggressive environments and pests, because no one is immune from the appearance of wood-boring beetles, mold or even fungus in their wooden house. Therefore, previously (before use) wooden building materials must be treated with any antiseptic or fire-retardant composition. It is advisable to do this twice: before installation and after it.

    Lining

    Lining roof overhangs with clapboard is also used quite often. The main thing is to choose high-quality material - smooth, without bluish spots, not too damp and not overdried (natural humidity is what you need), and not having a large number of knots.

    Before use, the lining must be folded outside and left for several days so that it, so to speak, acclimatizes a little and does not warp after installation. This is if it was stored in a warehouse or barn. In the case when the material is shipped to you directly from a stack on the street, it is immediately ready for use.

    The lining is laid tightly, leaving no gaps (as is done when installing boards), but at certain intervals small holes are cut out, which are covered with ventilation grilles.

    The filing of any overhang is carried out with clapboard treated with protective compounds.


    Siding

    PVC siding is used to cover cornices most often when this material was used to cover the facade of a house. The remaining scraps are quite suitable for this task. The siding is laid and fixed perpendicular to the walls, and installation along the walls with long panels is not used, because they are thin and will sag even if they are fastened in several places.

    Depending on the width of the cornice, the siding sections are fixed in at least two places, and for reliability it is best to attach them at four points. To make the finish look neat, use corners at the joints and “P” shaped strips to decorate the edges. Ventilation grilles must be installed.

    When covering roof overhangs with siding, you need to be very careful to prevent defects in the work.

    By the way, overhangs are always hemmed along the sheathing, regardless of the material used.


    Soffits

    To hem overhangs, they also use soffits - perforated panels that allow air to pass through and thereby protect the roof from the appearance of fungus. The panels are fastened together with lock-type connections.

    By the way, soffits can be not only fully perforated, but also with perforation in the center and even solid - without perforation at all

    They produce plastic, steel, aluminum and copper roofing soffits. Plastic products are similar in appearance to vinyl siding, but they are thicker and wider. These soffits are popular because they are inexpensive, durable, UV resistant and visually attractive. When installed, they form a seamless fabric.

    Steel soffits are much stronger than plastic ones, but also much heavier, but they can withstand even high mechanical loads. Often they come complete with roofing material.

    Covering eaves with aluminum soffits is now increasingly being ordered – it’s fashionable. Aluminum is lightweight, does not corrode and does not expand when exposed to high temperatures. But the color palette of spotlights made from this material is not diverse and consists of only two colors: white and brown.

    Copper soffits are the most expensive, but also the most presentable and durable. They will last for many years without losing their decorative qualities.

    So, by choosing soffits from one material or another (depending on your financial capabilities), you can adjust the appearance of your home and create an original architectural ensemble with interesting contrasting elements. And, of course, reliably protect the building from rain, sun and wind.

    Corrugated sheet

    The lining for overhangs should be chosen so that it not only copes with its functional purpose, but also looks good and is durable.

    Despite the fact that corrugated sheeting is, first of all, a roofing material, it has all these qualities, and its wide color palette allows you to choose the color of the lining to match the color of the roof, facade, or, conversely, use contrasting shades. It is even possible to use halftones here - a tone darker or lighter. Lining the overhang with corrugated sheeting is very convenient.

    Corrugated sheeting is hemmed using the same method as all other materials. It is durable, easy to use, lightweight, decorative, but does not allow air to pass through, so you need to install ventilation grilles at a certain distance or leave a gap along the wall of the building one wave wide.

    Frontal board

    After the filing of the new overhangs is completed, the front board is nailed to the ends of the rafter overhangs. Since they are cut obliquely, their cuts are slightly larger than the diameter of the rafter legs. The width of the front board is chosen so that the ends of the overhangs are completely covered. The thickness of the board can be from 20 to 30 mm, because it does not experience strong wind loads, so thicker material is only an additional financial cost for which there is no justification.

    The material that was used for lining the overhangs (lining, siding, corrugated...) is mounted on top of the front board. The outer corner of the overhang is covered with the corner that comes with the siding, metal or wood (which is much less common, because it is less resistant to precipitation).

    That's it - your roof is finished!

    To give the structure a more attractive appearance, a corner is also installed at the junction of the sheathing and the wall of the house - it hides irregularities and places of fastening with screws or nails.

    We give a guarantee

    The specialists of Moskomplekt LLC have been working in the construction industry for many years, so they have extensive experience in solving any tasks assigned to them. Fitting any roof is not a problem for us! If you need any work done, please call the office, write an email, or leave a message on our website. Managers will promptly contact you, advise you, and advise you on how to conclude an agreement with us. We work quickly, efficiently and always provide a guarantee. Contact us, we will help you.

    Price for services

    Prices are indicated for 1 p/m

    Installation of the frame of cornices and gable overhangs - 220-320 rubles.

    Fitting with soffits – 240-365 rubles.

    Hemming with boards – 400-510 rubles.

    Painting wooden elements in 2 layers – 45-85 rubles.