Detailed heating diagram for a private house. Typical heating wiring diagrams in a private house: complete classification of device options

When organizing the heating of their private home, each homeowner is faced with the task of considering all options for heating distribution throughout the house and choosing the most suitable one. There are not many options, but the differences between them are significant. To settle on the optimal one, you need to understand the operating features of a particular circuit and compare them with your requirements. Then all that remains is to select the appropriate equipment, materials and install the system. In this article we will dwell on the question of what kind of heating wiring is used in a private house and consider different options.

What to choose from?

According to the method of functioning, water heating is of 2 types:

  • with a natural flow of coolant (otherwise - gravitational or gravity scheme);
  • with circulation driven by a special pump (forced circuit).

In addition, the wiring can be one or two pipes. In the first case, all heating devices are connected to one collector passing through one or more rooms. In the second, the pipe routing diagrams provide for connecting radiators not to one, but to two distribution pipelines - supply and return. We propose to consider in detail the options that are most preferable for a gravity and pump system.

Natural circulation of the coolant occurs due to the fact that hot water leaving the boiler, which has lower density and weight, is displaced by cooled coolant coming from the pipeline network. After all, its density and mass are greater. A small pressure difference occurs, causing the natural flow of water in the pipes. True, in this case, the heating distribution scheme in the house should provide for significant slopes of the mains and increased pipe diameters.

Recently, bulky gravity systems were considered a relic of the past. Nowadays, when people began to strive for energy independence, there is a tendency to return such schemes to the sphere of private housing construction.

Forced circulation of the coolant is carried out using a pump, which makes it possible to implement branched wiring diagrams for heating systems. The undeniable advantage of such wiring is the small diameters of the pipelines and the wide possibilities for their laying, since very small slopes are needed here.

Wiring of a gravity heating system

The correct wiring of the heating from the boiler is important here, otherwise the circuit will not function normally. Due to the fact that the pressure in the pipeline network is low, natural circulation can work well in one- and two-story houses with a total area of ​​up to 250 m2. It is not recommended to install such systems in more impressive buildings.

In a small one-story house, where the number of radiators does not exceed 5, you can use a single-pipe circuit with Leningrad wiring, shown in the figure:

“Leningradka” is a horizontal wiring with a main line laid above the floor (or under it) and a bottom connection of radiators. An important detail without which the circuit will not work is the accelerating vertical riser. An open type expansion tank is connected to it. By the way, membrane containers cannot be installed during gravity flow, since they are designed to work under pressure.

When the area of ​​a one-story building reaches 100 m2 or more, or the number of batteries exceeds 5, the Leningradka is no longer suitable; a two-pipe horizontal wiring is needed. The return manifold is located below the floor, and the supply manifold is located at the level of the window sills (so that it passes under them) or under the ceiling. In the latter case, there is no need to specially make an accelerating riser; the main will already rise to the required height, as shown in the diagram:

When it comes to two floors, it is most often used as a single-pipe heating system with an upper distribution of the supply line and vertical risers. The return manifold is located above the floor of the first floor, and the supply manifold is located under the ceiling of the second floor or in the attic. The open expansion tank is, as always, in its place - at the highest point:

Such an upper distribution of the coolant should ensure its uniform flow into both the radiators of the second floor and the first. For this purpose, bypasses are installed between the supply pipes of the batteries on the second floor, whose diameter is 1 size smaller than the vertical riser. The presented single-pipe heating has been tested in practice for many years and has proven itself to be good. At this point, the wiring methods for the natural circulation of the coolant have been exhausted; surely one of the 3 options will be suitable for your home, if only it is small in size and low-rise.

Wiring for forced coolant circulation

It is worth noting that when a pump is included in the circuit, the choice of methods for delivering heat to the radiators is somewhat wider, including one of the innovations - radial wiring of the heating system. But first things first. As with the natural flow of water, the famous “Leningradka” is applicable here, only the expansion tank is of the membrane type and is placed on the return line. An accelerating riser is not required, its role is performed by a pump:

The one-pipe “Leningrad” is convenient because you can do the wiring of the heating system yourself, and at minimal cost. But the conditions for its reliable operation are still the same: a small living area and no more than 5 batteries on one branch. You can also use the single-pipe vertical and two-pipe wiring shown above, but this is not always advisable. In private houses of any size and number of floors, the following types of forced circulation schemes are popular:

  • with lower horizontal wiring;
  • collector pipe distribution (radial).

The lower horizontal gasket is the most popular of all existing schemes. The diameters of the pipes are small, and the pressure created by the pump allows you to arrange several dead-end branches of equal length, covering the entire house. In addition, highways can be hidden under floors or behind decorative screens. The traditional lower distribution of heating pipes in a private house with 2 floors is shown in the figure:

Note. There are other ways to install two-pipe pressure networks, but they are not so popular, because then most of the pipes are located in the middle of the walls and are very noticeable. Below are diagrams of such wiring:

Well, the most “advanced” radial wiring is done in houses with a large number of radiators. To do this, a distribution manifold is installed on each floor of the building, from which individual branches go to each battery.

This unit is the same as that used in heated floors; it is connected to a vertical riser running from the boiler through all floors.

From a hydraulic point of view, this is the best option, but also the most expensive in terms of cost. It has one drawback - installation is possible only during new construction, and in other cases you will have to drill the gates into the floor. The pipes are hidden or embedded in it, dressed in a heat-insulating shell. Radiators with bottom connections are installed as heating devices.

For reference. For those who plan to heat water for domestic hot water in the boiler room, we inform you that the wiring of the heating system from a double-circuit gas boiler is carried out in the same way as with a simple single-circuit heat generator. Only pipes in the piping that go to hot water consumers are added.

Conclusion

When choosing wiring, you should think not only about saving materials, but also about the further reliable operation of the system. Before settling on any option, coordinate your actions with a specialist in this field.
In addition, we recommend that you read the detailed manual.

The problem of organizing a heating system for your own home is one of the key ones during construction, reconstruction, major repairs, etc. Even when purchasing a ready-made country building, you should pay close attention to this issue. And to do this, you must have an idea of ​​the existing types of heating systems, their advantages and disadvantages, and operational features.

Of all types of heating, water remains the leader in popularity - with pipes carrying heated liquid coolant from the boiler to radiators, convectors or underfloor heating circuits. Despite the cumbersomeness of such a system and the scale of work during its creation, there is no real alternative yet, if assessed by the joint criteria of “affordability - efficiency - cost-effectiveness”. Well, among all the water systems, the simplest to implement is the single-pipe one. How to plan and install a single-pipe heating system for a private house with your own hands will be discussed in this publication.

What makes a single-pipe heating system different?

The main feature of a single-pipe heating system is probably immediately clear from the name itself.

The circulation of the coolant here is organized through one main pipe, which forms a ring that begins and ends in the heating boiler. All heating radiators are connected in series or in parallel to this pipe.

It is not at all difficult to distinguish externally a single-pipe and a two-pipe system, even just by looking at the heating radiator.

Despite the difference in connecting the radiators, this is all a one-pipe system

Despite the variety of battery connection options shown in the figure, all this refers to single-pipe wiring. Options “a” and “b” show the sequential placement of radiators - the pipe seems to pass through them. In options “c” and “d” the batteries are placed parallel to the pipe. But in any case, both the input and output of any radiator “rely” on one common line.

For clarity, to make it easier to understand, we present a two-pipe wiring diagram:

Always, with any battery insertion scheme, the entrance to it comes from the supply line, and the output is closed to the “return” pipe.

Read more about what it is in a special article on our portal.

Even someone inexperienced in matters of creating a heating system will most likely immediately understand the main disadvantage of a single-pipe scheme. The coolant heated in the boiler, passing sequentially through the radiators located, cools down, and in each subsequent battery its temperature is lower. This difference will be especially noticeable if you compare the first heat exchange point, located closest to the boiler room, with the very last one in the “chain”.

There are certain methods that make it possible to neutralize this disadvantage to a certain extent - they will be discussed below.

Advantages of a one-pipe system

Be that as it may, the single-pipe heating system is quite popular due to its advantages:

  • Such wiring requires a minimum amount of material - (we can safely say about 30 - 40% savings on pipes).
  • Based on the first point, the scale of installation work carried out is significantly smaller.
  • The wiring diagram is simple, and therefore most owners who have certain skills in plumbing work can cope with the task of self-installation.
  • The single-pipe system is extremely reliable - once correctly installed and adjusted, it will not require intervention in its operation for many years. This does not require any complex adjustment units or equipment.
  • Such a system is quite universal, and if desired, it can be installed both in a one-story house and on several levels, naturally, slightly changing the required equipment and adapting the connection diagram.

One pipe runs along the floor surface - it is not too conspicuous and is easy to decorate

  • The main pipe always runs along the floor (except options with risers that will be discussed below). This arrangement makes it possible to decorate the pipe without special costs, for example, by covering it, after appropriate thermal insulation, with a finishing floor covering. And, in the end, one low-lying pipe is not so conspicuous, and it is always easier to hide it than two.

Disadvantages of a single-pipe heating scheme

Single-pipe heating systems were actively used on an industrial scale, in the construction of residential and public buildings. The builders were probably fully satisfied with the ease of installation and cost-effectiveness in terms of material consumption, so the shortcomings of the system faded into the background. But in private construction, the “disadvantages” of a single-pipe system will have to be known and taken into account, since they are quite significant.

  • The main thing has already been mentioned - in the most simplified form of wiring, it is impossible to achieve equality of coolant temperatures in all batteries of the circuit. One of the solutions is to gradually increase the number of sections from room to room as you move away from the boiler, in order to achieve equal heat transfer by increasing the active heat exchange area. But at the same time, of course, it will be difficult to talk about saving on materials - radiators can cost much more than pipes.

There are other ways to equalize the temperature - we will discuss them below.

  • If you are planning a heating system with natural circulation, you may encounter difficulties in meeting the mandatory required pipe slope. With a single-pipe system, the main line is located along the floor, and if the room is quite spacious, or the perimeter of the building is long, then it is sometimes simply impossible to cope with such a task.

Conclusion - a single-pipe system with natural circulation is suitable only for compact buildings. Otherwise, the installation of a circulation pump will become mandatory. However, people now try to install a pump whenever possible, and many modern heating boilers already have a built-in circulation unit.

  • A single-pipe system completely eliminates the insertion of “warm floor” circuits into it, in addition to heating radiators. If in the future the owners plan to organize water floor heating in any of the rooms, then it is better to immediately install a two-pipe system.

Read more about this in a special article on our portal:

Wiring diagrams for a single-pipe heating system

The general contour of a single-pipe system is most often located along the external walls of the house and runs parallel to the floor (or with the necessary slope). But the scheme for including heating radiators in this circuit may vary. Let's consider the possible options - from the simplest to the more complex and effective.

Since the basic diagram of pipe routing and general equipment does not change, the general numbering of nodes will be preserved from drawing to drawing, indicating only newly appeared elements.

You might be interested in information about how the heating system works

The simplest scheme

A. The simplest single-pipe wiring systems:

The numbers in the diagram show:

1- heating boiler. The main supply pipe (item 2) goes up from the boiler. The diagram shows a version of a single-pipe open-type heating system; therefore, an expansion tank is mounted at the highest point of the wiring (item 3).

If the system operates on the principle of natural circulation, then a starting section is required for single-pipe distribution - the so-called "acceleration collector"(pos. 4). It will prevent stagnation of the coolant in the system and will give an additional impulse to the circulation of liquid through the pipes. The height of this accelerating collector above the first radiator (h 1) is at least one and a half meters.

The heating radiators themselves (item 5) in the simplest circuit are installed in series with the lower input and output connections on opposite sides. It is clear that when laying a pipe to ensure natural circulation, a slope is observed (shown by brown arrows). Moreover, the excess of the last radiator in the chain above the heating boiler (h 2) must be observed. The larger this value, the better, which is why boiler rooms are often located in basement rooms or artificially recessed floors are made at the installation site of the device. The maximum permissible value of h is 2 – 3 meters.

To avoid all these difficulties, the optimal solution would be to install a pump unit (item 6). It includes the pump itself (item 7), a bypass (jumper) and a valve system (item 8) that allow, if necessary, switching from forced circulation to natural (for example, if power outages are not uncommon in the area of ​​construction).

It is necessary to provide for one more point - the possibility of releasing air pockets that can accumulate at the top point of the radiators. To do this, place on the batteries air vents(pos. 9).

On the left is the Mayevsky crane. On the right is an automatic air vent

They can be Mayevsky taps, which are periodically unscrewed to allow air to escape. A more expensive option is automatic air vents that do not require human intervention.

This radiator connection scheme is the most primitive, since all the shortcomings of a single-pipe system are reflected to the maximum extent in it. The last radiators in the circuit will always be much colder than the first.

B. The following diagram provides only one improvement - the radiators are connected diagonally (shown by purple arrows).

This passage of coolant through the battery contributes to maximum thermal energy output and more uniform heating of all sections. But the temperature difference in the first and last radiator will obviously be even higher. In addition, such a scheme for inserting batteries significantly reduces the possibility of natural coolant circulation, and with a long overall circuit it will become impossible altogether. This means that it will not be possible to do without a circulation unit.

IN. For such wiring, an open or closed type system with forced circulation is more suitable. The diagram below shows an option with a sealed expansion tank.

In this case, the pump is embedded directly into the main pipe (although the previously indicated wiring diagram may remain the same). The main difference is a membrane-type expansion tank (item 10), which is usually installed on the “return” not far from the boiler (there is no regulation here - the optimal location in terms of layout and ease of use is selected). And the second mandatory element is the “safety group” (item 11), consisting of a safety valve designed for a certain value of the maximum pressure in the system, automatic air vent and a visual control device - a pressure gauge.

“Security group” assembled in one building

In the future, when considering the diagrams, only a closed system with forced circulation will be shown. This is done only to avoid overloading the drawings with lines. But in general, the home owner has the same choice - a closed or open expansion tank, and the circulation is natural, forced or combined.

All three of the above schemes have one common important drawback. It lies in the fact that if any of the radiators fails and is urgently dismantled, the system becomes temporarily completely inoperable, since the circuit is broken.

Therefore, if you have already decided to install a single-pipe heating system, then the optimal choice will be the “Leningrad” one, which allows you to avoid many characteristic shortcomings and gives you more opportunities in terms of adjustments.

You might be interested in information about what types of

A modernized version of the single-pipe heating system - “Leningradka”

Where this established name, “Leningradka” came from, is not known for certain. Perhaps it is in Northern capital Research institute specialists developed technical regulations for such a heating system. It is possible that when large-scale residential construction began in the country, some Leningrad construction organizations were the first to put such a scheme on stream. Be that as it may, it was the “Leningradka” that was designed for mass construction, both low-rise and high-rise, and its design, while being economical in terms of material consumption and ease of installation, allows for quite efficient use of thermal energy in large heating circuits .

The main difference between the Leningradka is that the input and output on each of the radiators are connected by a jumper - a bypass. Or another option - branches are made from the main pipe to the inlet and outlet of each battery.

The schematic diagram of the Leningradka is shown in the figure:

Basic diagram of a single-pipe system - “Leningradka”

The presence of a bypass (item 12) makes it possible to distribute heat more evenly across radiators at varying distances from the heating boiler. Even if the coolant flow through any battery is interrupted (for example, a blockage occurs or an air lock forms), the system will still be operational.

The presented diagram shows the simplest version of the “Leningradka”, without equipping it with any adjustment devices. It was often used before, and experienced craftsmen already knew what approximately the bypass diameter is required on a particular battery in order to equalize the temperature at all points to the maximum extent. Thus, a completely insignificant increase in the number of pipes makes it possible to reduce the total number of battery sections in rooms remote from the boiler room.

You might be interested in information about how it works and how it works.

The same option, but with diagonal insertion of batteries, improving their overall heat transfer:

But that's not all. Firstly, it is very difficult to independently calculate the diameter of the jumper for each battery. And secondly, such a scheme does not yet provide for the possibility of dismantling any individual radiator without breaking the closure of the general circuit. Therefore, it is best to use a modernized modification of the Leningradka:

Modernized circuit - with taps and control valves

In this option, each radiator is surrounded on both sides by taps (item 13). At any time, you can “cut off” the battery from the common pipe - for example, when the room for some reason does not temporarily need heating, or if there is a need for dismantling for repair or replacement. The operation of the system will not be disrupted in any way.

These taps, by and large, can be used to regulate the heating of a specific radiator, increasing or decreasing the coolant current.

But it would be more reasonable to install ball valves here, which are designed primarily to operate in two positions - “open” or “closed”. And for adjustment, a needle balancing valve mounted on the bypass (item 14) will serve.

The same diagram - with a diagonal connection:

And here is a similar connection in the photo:

The radiator is connected to the Leningradka

  • Blue arrows – shut-off ball valves at the inlet and outlet of the radiator.
  • Green arrow – balancing valve.

Such a modernized “Leningradka” system makes it possible, if necessary, to install the system not as a single looped circuit, but with dedicated sections - branches. For example, this way you can organize wiring in a two-story building, or in a house that has “wings” or side extensions.

"Leningradka" with an additional branch circuit

In this case, a branch is made from the main pipe (item 16), going to an additional heating circuit, and a tie-in into the return pipe (item 17). And on the “return” of the additional circuit (pos. 15), it is advisable to install another needle control valve (pos. 18), with the help of which you can achieve a balanced joint operation of both branches.

For a two-story house, another option is possible. If the layout of the premises is generally the same, then it would be rational to use a system of vertical risers.

19 – interfloor covering.

20 – supply pipe from the boiler.

21 – return pipe.

22 – risers, which include radiators according to the “Leningrad” scheme with an adjustable bypass.

There is, however, one interesting point here. Each drain itself is organized according to the principle of a single-pipe system (highlighted in green). But if we consider the system as a whole, then the risers are already included in the two-pipe system - each of them is connected in parallel to the supply pipe and to the return pipe (highlighted in brown). Thus, there is a harmonious combination of the advantages of both systems.

Video: Leningradka heating system

You may be interested in information about what they are

Planning your heating system

When conducting pre-planning Any heating system must take into account many nuances that directly affect its efficiency. It is very important to correctly select the main elements - boiler, radiators, pipes for creating circuits, expansion tank, circulation pump. Ideally, such a calculation should be entrusted to specialists. But knowing the basics and being able to navigate such issues will never be superfluous.

What kind of boiler will you need?

The main requirement for the boiler: its thermal power must fully ensure the efficiency of the heating system - maintain the required temperature in all heated rooms and completely replenish the inevitable heat losses.

This publication will not dwell on the types of heating boilers. Each homeowner makes an individual decision - based on the availability and cost of energy resources, the presence or absence of boiler room equipment, fuel storage, taking into account their financial capabilities to purchase this or that equipment.

But the boiler power is a general parameter without which it is impossible to create a rational and efficient heating system.

You can find a lot of recommendations for the simplest independent calculation of the required power. As a rule, it is recommended to proceed from a ratio of 100 W per 1 m² of house area. However, this approach gives only an approximate value. Agree that neither the difference in the climatic conditions of the region nor the features of the premises are taken into account here. Therefore, we suggest using a more accurate method.

To begin, make a small table in which you indicate all the rooms of your home and their parameters. Surely, every owner has a building plan, and, knowing the features of his “possessions,” he will spend very little time filling out such a table. An example is given below:

roomarea, sq. mexternal or balcony doorexternal walls, number, where they lookwindows, quantity and typewindow sizerequired for heating, kW
TOTAL: 18.7 kW
hallway6 1 1, C- - 2.01
kitchen11 - 1, V2, double glazing120×90 cm1.44
living room18 1 2, S.W.2, double glazing150×100 cm3.35
bedroom12 - 1, V1, double glazing120×90 cm1.4
children's14 - 1, W1, double glazing120×90 cm1.49
so on throughout all rooms

Now that the data is prepared, go to the calculator below and calculate the heat energy requirement for each room and enter it into a table - it’s very simple. All that remains is to sum up all the values.

Calculator for calculating the required thermal power

The calculation is carried out for each room separately.
Enter the requested values ​​sequentially or mark the desired options in the proposed lists

Specify the area of ​​the room, m²

100 W per sq. m

Number of external walls

one two three four

External walls face:

North, Northeast, East South, Southwest, West

What is the degree of insulation of external walls?

External walls are not insulated. Average degree of insulation. External walls have high-quality insulation.

Level of negative air temperatures in the region in the coldest week of the year

35 °C and below from - 25 °C to - 35 °C to - 20 °C to - 15 °C not lower than - 10 °C

Indoor ceiling height

up to 2.7 m 2.8 ÷ 3.0 m 3.1 ÷ 3.5 m 3.6 ÷ 4.0 m more than 4.1 m

"Neighborhood" vertically:

For the second floor - a cold attic or an unheated and uninsulated room on top For the second floor - an insulated attic or other room on top For the second floor - a heated room on top First floor with an insulated floor First floor with a cold floor

Type of installed windows

Conventional wooden frames with double glazing Windows with single-chamber (2 panes) double-glazed windows Windows with double-glazed windows (3 panes) or with argon filling

Number of windows in the room

Window height, m

Window width, m

Doors facing the street or balcony:

The amount received is the minimum value that will allow you to make a choice from the model range presented for sale. It is advisable to provide about 10 ÷ 15% power reserve.

Type and number of heating radiators

The modern wide range of radiators can confuse an inexperienced person in these matters. How to correctly approach the problem of choosing heat exchange devices and how many of them will be required?

What is important to know about heating radiators?

Our portal contains a special publication entirely devoted to these issues, highlighting all sorts of nuances. And the calculator built into the article will help you quickly and accurately calculate what you will need for each room.

Pipes for heating system

It is also possible here options - heating can be created on the basis of metal, plastic or metal-plastic pipes. Each option has its own advantages and disadvantages. It is most convenient to present this in tabular form - this will make it easier to compare and make the right choice.

IllustrationAdvantages of pipesFlaws
Conventional “black” steel pipes VGP

High strength to external mechanical influencesRequires external anti-corrosion protection
Ability to withstand high coolant pressuresFor the same reason of corrosion vulnerability - they are demanding on the cleanliness of the coolant
relatively low linear thermal expansionComplex installation - requires welding, threading, bending, etc.
High temperature resistanceLarge mass, complicating both delivery and installation
High price compared to polymer pipes
Stainless steel pipes

Retains all the positive qualities of steel pipesThe cost of pipes and fittings for them is very high
No corrosion, much more durableDue to the characteristics of the metal, processing and installation are much more complex and expensive than conventional steel
Externally they look much more aesthetically pleasing.
Copper pipes

Highest resistance to temperature changes (from negative to extremely high, up to 500 ° C) and pressure, to water hammerThe most expensive of all options – both for the pipes themselves and for components
With proper installation, the service life is practically unlimited.
Original, aesthetic appearance
Installation is much easier than with any steel pipes
Metal-plastic pipes

Aesthetic appearanceAfraid of freezing
Smooth inner channel surfaceThe guaranteed service life is short - usually no more than 10 ÷ 15 years
Corrosion resistance, quite acceptable thermal resistance for heating systemsWith the low cost of the pipes themselves, the price for fittings and other components is quite high
Easy to install - you can get by with a standard home set of toolsThe possibility of wall delamination cannot be ruled out, especially if installation technology is violated.
Low linear thermal expansion
Possibility of bending in compliance with safety requirements
Polypropylene pipes

The material is the lightest used for heating systemsHigh coefficient of linear expansion
Service life is quite long: 25 years or moreNot resistant to ultraviolet rays
Smooth inner surfaceAt temperatures above 90°, deformation and destructuring of the material may begin.
Freeze resistanceImpossibility of creating curved shapes - installation of an additional shaped element is always required
Installation is completely simple and can be mastered by any owner in a matter of hoursViolations of welding technology often lead to a narrowing of the passage diameter at the joints of parts
Externally they look very aesthetically pleasingFor installation, a special tool is required - a soldering iron for PCB
The cost of both the pipes themselves and their components is low
PEX cross-linked polyethylene pipes

High degree of resistance to temperature and pressure changesThe cost of both the pipes themselves and their components is quite high.
High material densityInstallation requires special professional-grade tools
Plasticity - during installation the pipe can be given the required configurationUV instability
Linear expansion coefficient is small
If you have the necessary components and tools, installation is simple.
Connecting units are extremely reliable

So, any of the presented types of pipes may be suitable for the heating system in question. However, some nuances should be taken into account:

  • If the planned temperature in the heating circuit is above 70 degrees, then it is better to abandon the use of polymer pipes (especially for polypropylene, to a lesser extent - PEX).
  • The piping of a solid fuel boiler is always carried out exclusively with metal pipes.
  • If you decide to carry out the wiring according to a scheme with natural circulation and an open expansion tank, then the optimal solution would be to choose steel pipes with their open arrangement.
  • If there is a desire to remove the contour into the walls, then stainless steel, polypropylene () or PEX are used. It is permissible to use metal plastic, but only with press fittings (threaded ones are prohibited from being placed into walls or floors). In any case, when bricking up pipes, they should be insulated from chemical exposure cement-containing solutions. In addition, the possibility of linear expansion with temperature fluctuations must be taken into account, and thermal insulation must be performed to prevent heat loss due to unnecessary heating of the wall or floor mass.

It is difficult to give recommendations regarding pipe diameters - this parameter largely depends on the individual characteristics of the heating system itself. In this matter, the best solution would be to contact an experienced craftsman who has assembled more than one system with his own hands and knows many of the nuances well.

You may be interested in information on how to organize

Circulation pump

How to properly tie a circulation pipe was shown above. Now it’s better to focus on choosing the right device.

It is clear that the pump must receive a 220 V power supply. Typically, the power consumption of such devices is small, and its impact on the total amount of electricity costs is insignificant. Therefore, the power consumption parameter in this case is not key.

Two other parameters are much more important.

  • Firstly, this is the performance of the pump, that is, its ability to move the required amount of coolant per unit of time. The initial values ​​for calculation are the coefficient T the thermal capacity of water, the power of the heating boiler and the temperature difference between the supply pipe and the return pipe at the entrance to the boiler.

To carry out the calculations, we suggest using a special calculator:

Circulation pump performance calculator

— The boiler power is already calculated higher.

— The temperature difference may vary depending on the heat exchange devices used (radiators, convectors, heated floors).

— The heat capacity of water is a tabular value, and it is already included in the program.

Everyone dreams of such a home, which will be located at a considerable distance from the bustle of the city. But at the same time it is necessary to create the comfort that will be to the liking of every resident. First of all, you should take care of the heating system by making sure it is installed properly. Particular attention will have to be paid to the location of the boiler and the wiring of a certain heating wiring option in a private house for various conditions. Pros and cons of standard schemes, their use for different types of coolant circulation.

Beginning of work

When installing a heating system in a private home with your own hands, first of all you should pay attention to a thorough analysis of all the conditions under which operation will be carried out. The area of ​​the heated premises, the choice of pipeline, its diameter and material, as well as the type of fuel will play no small role.

But the most important thing in this case, what every owner of a private home requires, is efficiency and an excellent level of heat transfer. Each room must be heated instantly and to the required temperature. For this purpose, not only the system itself is selected, but also the heating distribution in the house.

Types of heating systems

There are a sufficient number of heating systems that differ from each other according to various criteria. If we take the principle of coolant movement, they will be divided into:

When you have decided on a specific option, you need to pay attention to the wiring option. This is what most often plays a significant role in the functioning of the entire heating system.

Classification of wiring

Types of heating systems differ in circulation, number of pipe circuits and type of device. Various types of wiring and methods of connecting heat exchangers are used. Let's consider options for installing heating circuits in a private house, recommendations for laying pipes.


In any of the presented cases, you simply need to know how to properly install the heating system.

Pipe selection

Before installing heating in a private house, you should decide on the material of the pipes themselves. Each of the presented options has its pros and cons, which are worth paying attention to when purchasing.

The least popular is the steel version, including those made of stainless steel. This is due to the sufficient weight of the final structure, as well as the complex installation process with them. It will not always be possible to carry out the correct heating installation in the house with your own hands. You will have to hire a specialist to carry out welding work. In addition to this, cutting of connections (threads) will be required. This kind of heating work will take a lot of time.

Metal-plastic pipes cannot be considered the best option, despite the fact that they are very simple and fast. This is largely due to the operational period, when it is necessary to check all possible metal connections of the structure and, if necessary, tighten them. Therefore, it will be impossible to hide it, for example, on the floor. If, in addition to this, the temperature in the system constantly “jumps”, it will not be able to last long.

An excellent option, but not considered budget-friendly, would be copper pipes. They have significant advantages, including resistance to corrosion and a long service life. The difficulty lies not only in purchasing such an expensive product, but also in installation. To ensure the quality remains at its best, it is better to contact a specialist.

If we consider criteria such as efficiency and functionality, the best option would be to purchase pipes from a heating system in a private house. But when choosing, you should pay attention to the possibility of use in a heating system. A pipe with internal reinforcement made of aluminum or fiberglass is suitable here.

Single-pipe wiring

To begin work on installing a heating system with single-pipe wiring, it is best to purchase and install regulators on the batteries. They can be presented in the form of taps or valves. This will make it easier to distribute the water pressure in the system. In addition to this, a balancing valve is purchased, located on the pipeline itself.

There are two main options by which this correct heating installation in a private house is carried out. Is it horizontal or vertical. The first was popularly called “Leningradka”. To begin with, it’s worth focusing on a horizontal arrangement. As the name suggests, the pipeline should be located around the perimeter of all rooms. Installation can be done either on top of it along the wall. Everything will depend on the preferences of the performer. The main thing is to maintain at least a slight level of inclination as it decreases from the heating boiler.

It is also used for private houses with several floors. But here you need to understand how to properly install heating in a house. A vertical riser is connected to the first radiator of the second floor. Even in this case, you can control the water pressure, as well as temperature conditions. For this purpose, a tap is inserted into the pipeline on each floor. The only disadvantage of using this wiring option is the need to purchase a pump that allows water to circulate in the system. You can, of course, do without it, but in this design the heat transfer will be reduced to minimum values. But even here you can do the wiring of the heating system yourself.


"Leningradka"

Everything happens differently when a single-pipe system is installed vertically. A pipe is laid in a vertical position in the direction from the attic. From it a kind of branch is made to each battery in the rooms. There is no need to use a pump here, since the method is considered gravity. After heating the water in the system, it rises to the top, and only then falls below. The main disadvantage is the need to purchase pipes with a large internal diameter. In addition, it will be almost impossible to hide such system components.

Two-pipe

For proper installation of a heating system with two-pipe wiring, two circuits should be installed: a pipe for supplying coolant to the radiators and returning it back for heating. To connect the radiators themselves, a parallel version is used. Due to this, it is possible to locate the lower pipeline layout, as well as independently adjust each component. If you bring one of them to perfection, this will not in any way affect the performance of all the others.

These heating distribution options reduce the existing disadvantages of a single-pipe system, having reduced energy consumption and a higher degree of heat transfer. The entire area of ​​the room will warm up evenly without temperature fluctuations.

Additionally, air vents are installed on, as well as a shut-off valve at the point where the hot medium is supplied. This allows you to control the temperature of each battery in the room and individually. There is no need to install shut-off valves on the return line.

This type of wiring cannot do without disadvantages, which manifest themselves in the consumption of materials during the installation of the heating system. After all, you will have to purchase double the number of pipes compared to the single-pipe option.

Collector wiring

A high-quality circulation pump must first be installed in the heating system. Only after this can the supply and return pipes be installed. If natural circulation is used, it will not be able to direct coolant through the system. Initially, for example, water is supplied to the collector, after which it is sent through all components, warming the air inside the premises of a private house.

Shut-off valves are used as a component, which must be located at any collector outlet. Despite the initial huge amount of money spent, everything will pay off soon. In addition, there are other advantages that these methods of heating in a house can boast:


If you look at the wiring structure of the heating system, you can come to the conclusion that it is a kind of two-pipe version. The only difference is the use of additional units and components during installation, which make the entire system more practical and economical.

This is manifested in excellent heat transfer from the batteries into the room, and energy consumption is significantly reduced. The payback period will take a significantly shorter period of time. These methods of heating distribution in a private home are being used more and more often.

Efficiency of a heating system with a circulation pump

The circulation pump plays a big role in individual heating systems. If you need to quickly heat the air in the rooms of the house, and the efficiency of the heating system must be high. The conversation is about heating devices - radiators, underfloor heating systems. The faster the radiator exchanges heat between water and air, the more efficient the entire heating system will be.

Pump installation diagram

In individual heating systems, we must ensure that the radiator, which has given off heat, does not itself cool down and the water leaving the radiator is not very cold. Otherwise, the boiler will wear out, and this is not good. This is where a circulation pump will help us, which will maintain water circulation. Which will allow the radiator to maintain the temperature and return the water not supercooled to the boiler.

In this case, the heating system with natural circulation is eliminated - it is ineffective. First of all, due to inertia, the speed of water directly depends on the temperature of the water. We wait until the water heats up and then cools down; here this is a slow and ineffective method.

We turn on the circulation pump and eliminate all natural blockages associated with temperature differences. Individual heating systems circulate any water - cold, hot - it all depends on how much it has time to cool or warm up. Water goes into the system and returns back at the same speed to the boiler.

What we have? Reduced fuel consumption in the boiler. Let's assume that the required coolant temperature is 65*. Individual heating systems, the water is cold, the boiler operates at maximum. The temperature rises, the water does not have time to cool completely in one pass through the heating system, the boiler goes into economical mode and maintains the temperature. If the output is 65* and the input is 60*, then in each radiator the top is heated to 64* and the bottom to 61* degrees. This way the radiators deliver full power, the boiler does not have to heat the water to 70*-75* degrees and above that spend additional energy. In this way we have the opportunity to set the temperature for each radiator separately. If we have a warm room and kitchen, then the temperature of the radiator can be lowered, and we will get additional savings. A circulation pump driving water through the heating system makes it convenient when you need to set the radiator to 35* degrees (a heating system with natural circulation is not possible) in the autumn and spring months, it’s cool but not cold.

Individual heating systems with a circulation pump, we lay small diameter pipes. Can you tell me what this will give us? It will save money on the purchase of pipes, reduce the amount of water in the heating system and reduce gas costs for heating water and heating speed.

Natural circulation

In all presented variants of heating systems with wiring, natural circulation can be used. It should have an expansion tank where the coolant will be located when the temperature rises. This in turn helps control its pressure level, eliminating damage to all equipment.

All components of the heating system are connected using the top wiring. Only in this case will the coolant be able to be evenly distributed over the heating radiators and transmit the required temperature level inside the room. The slope of the pipeline will play a huge role here. It will be designed to supply direction for the coolant. Usually, during installation, an angle of 5 degrees is selected, which will be sufficient. Its advantages can be highlighted:


But all the shortcomings are much greater. The main thing is complexity. After all, here it will be necessary to create a constant slope along the entire length of the pipeline. It should be maintained for each linear meter. It cannot be used in private homes if the total area is more than 100 square meters. In the case of using metal pipes and radiators, over time, water as a coolant will lead to corrosion. At the same time, nothing else except water can be used in the heating system. Also among the disadvantages is the high consumption of pipes when heating wiring in this design is required.

The heating system piping of a private home can be done with your own hands or with the help of specialists. In any case, a heating network project is first prepared, an important point in the development of which is determining the method of pipe routing.

The main elements of any heating network are: a heat-generating device, a main pipeline, heat-dissipating, compensation devices and a device that ensures coolant circulation. Heating pipelines can have different configurations and degrees of technical equipment.

Heating systems are classified according to three parameters:

  • number of pipe circuits of the main pipeline,
  • type of compensation device,
  • type of circulation.

One- and two-pipe systems

The heating system can be:


In the first case, the coolant moves along one pipe circuit, alternately passes through all the heat-releasing devices, arriving at each increasingly cooler. The part of the main pipe after the last heat exchanger is called the return pipe or return pipe and serves to drain the cold working medium back to the heat generator.

In a two-pipe system, the energy carrier circulates through two parallel circuits: supply and return. The first circuit supplies hot coolant to each heat-releasing device, and the second circuit collects the cooled working medium from the heat exchangers and takes it to the heating device.

Types of circulation in heating systems

Heating of the premises occurs only if the coolant moves along the circuit. Circulation can be either natural or forced.

  • In systems with natural circulation, the energy carrier heated by a heating device is accelerated to give it an impulse sufficient to pass through the entire thermal circuit. To do this, immediately after the heat generator, an accelerating manifold is installed - a vertical section of pipe, when descending from which the working medium picks up speed under the influence of gravity.
  • Forced circulation is created by special circulation pumps installed on the return pipe. Such a system ensures the movement of coolant along a circuit of any length and complexity, but is completely dependent on the availability of electricity and stops working when the power supply is turned off.

Types of compensation devices

Depending on the method of compensating for pressure differences of the working medium in the circuit, there are two types of heating systems: open and closed.

  • In an open system, the pressure is controlled by a compensation tank, partially or completely open. When the pressure in the heating network increases, the excess working medium enters the tank, and when it decreases, it goes back into the pipeline.

Note! In an open-type heating network, the working medium is in contact with the surrounding air, therefore a compensation tank is installed only on water heating systems.

  • In a closed system, the expansion tank is sealed and has two autonomous compartments separated by a membrane. The operating principle is the same, but the coolant, entering the first compartment, does not come into contact with the environment, but interacts with the valve. When there is excess pressure, the working medium presses on the membrane, compressing the air in the second compartment; when the pressure returns to normal, the air in the second compartment is rarefied and squeezes the coolant back into the pipeline.

Work on arranging a heating system in a private house can be done independently if you have basic skills in working with tools and the tool itself, or you can order it from a specialized organization.

But, in any case, installing heating in a private house with your own hands begins with the theoretical part. You will need to decide which heating system wiring diagram you choose, how the coolant and boiler will circulate in it, and what brand will be installed in the system to heat the coolant.

Today, a person planning such work as installing heating pipes in a private house on his own, or installing a heating system, has the opportunity to choose one of the four most commonly used options for these purposes:

Variant of the radial heating system wiring method

The wiring of a heating system in a private house, made according to the indicated option, has the following feature: the supply pipe is led to the highest point of the house (usually to the attic), here each pipe is supplied with its own beam.

We get a kind of sun with rays supplying hot coolant to the radiators. (Another analogy is a fountain).

Collector heating system

The heating pipe layout according to the specified option is classified as the most efficient and productive. The basis is a collector assembled in the attic, through the pipes of which the coolant is distributed. Correct routing of heating pipes and shut-off valves installed in the manifold allow, if necessary, to cut off any of the circuits without stopping the operation of the entire CO.

This system is considered the most convenient CO model. The coolant is supplied to the radiators through the collector. It also contains control elements, which makes it possible to regulate the temperature in any room, as well as replace and repair a failed unit without turning off the entire heating system.

A significant disadvantage is the high consumption of materials when installing CO according to the mentioned scheme, as well as the requirement for the mandatory installation of a manifold cabinet.

Heating wiring diagram for a private house, assembled using a single-pipe version


This option is quite simple to implement and will require minimal costs for the purchase of components and installation work. All this makes it today the most popular option for installing heating systems in private residential buildings and other facilities.

The heating pipe layout in this version allows the coolant to move sequentially from one heating device to another. Moreover, in each subsequent one, the temperature will be lower than in the previous one. Very often, the coolant reaches the last radiator at a low temperature, which is clearly not enough for heating.

Routing heating pipes in a house according to the specified version practically eliminates the possibility of adjusting the system, because blocked batteries do not allow the coolant to flow further. And if there is a need to repair any heating device, all the coolant is drained from such COs.

Two-pipe house heating system

It will cost significantly more than the previous version, and will require more time for assembly and adjustment. However, it will allow you to get serious gains in heating quality, system performance and efficiency.

Wiring heating in a private house with your own hands according to the specified scheme warms up the object much better. There are always two pipes that are connected to each radiator. Correct routing of heating pipes ensures the following movement of the coolant. Hot coolant flows through the top, and cooled coolant is discharged through the bottom.

The advantage of the scheme: parallel connection of all heating devices. The heating wiring diagram for a private house according to the specified version allows you to repair a failed element without turning off the entire heating system.

Heating plan according to the method of coolant circulation in the system

In all currently operating COs, the coolant circulates according to one of the options listed below.

Natural circulation, another name - gravitational

The coolant in this case moves by using the difference in the density of the liquid having different temperatures. The hot one has a lower density, so it rises to the top of the system. The cold one is heavier, so it goes down.

In order to facilitate the movement of coolant in such systems, pipes are mounted at slight horizontal angles to promote gravity flow.

The main advantages of such a system are complete autonomy and maximum ease of assembly. Disadvantages: the need for a large number of large-diameter pipes. It is not possible to install modern models of radiators in such COs, which have small cross-sections and strict requirements for the slope of the main line.

Forced circulation

In this version, the coolant is moved by a running circulation pump. And its excess, formed when heated to high temperatures, is forced into the expansion tank.

In most options, CO tanks are closed, which ensures its protection from evaporation. Closed tanks are required to be used in systems where the coolant is any of the glycol solutions.

Such systems must be equipped with pressure gauges. When installing these systems, you will incur additional costs: you will need to buy thermostats, a pump, a pressure gauge, a tank, etc.

The advantages of the specified CO option, which the heating distribution of a two-story private house has according to the specified option: a minimum volume of coolant is required, smaller required pipe diameters, structurally implemented possibilities for adjusting the heating temperature of radiators, etc.
Disadvantage: Depends on availability of electricity to operate the pump.

Heating diagram based on wiring technique and piping arrangement

When choosing this version, it is better to entrust its installation to professionals, as it is quite complicated.

By type of installation there are:

  • Horizontal CO. It is quite convenient in that it does not require the installation of risers for subsequent branching across existing premises.
  • Vertical CO. They have no air pockets and are easy to install.

According to the direction in which the coolant moves, there are:

  • Straight-through. The coolant moves from the boiler through the CO to the boiler.
  • Dead-end. They move from the heat source in the opposite direction.

Heating schemes for a private house, the piping in which is carried out according to one of the above options, requires the performer to carry out high-quality preliminary calculations and carefully select the necessary equipment.

In the future, it will need to be mounted strictly according to the design diagram, otherwise the assembled CO may not work well.

How to choose the best heating layout for a private home?

When determining the required CO option, it is necessary to take into account several initial parameters:

  • The total area of ​​the room that will be heated by the specified system;
  • Number of floors;
  • The power of the heating boiler that is planned to be installed in the system;
  • What coolant circulation scheme is planned to be used as a basis?