Canopy near the house. DIY canopy: how to build a stable structure (84 photo ideas)

Sheds in front of the house are an additional, functional space that allows you to make the most of the site, and comfortably relax in the fresh air in the heat and in bad weather. The building must be ergonomic, reliable, aesthetically pleasing and must not clutter the façade of the building.

Next, we will review original and practical ideas, talk about the design features of extensions, what materials are best used for their manufacture, and provide detailed instructions on how to make a canopy for your house with your own hands.

Design and functionality

The canopy in front of the house should delicately fit into the overall architectural ensemble, emphasize the advantages of the exterior and hide its shortcomings, harmoniously combine with the landscape design of the site, be convenient, practical in use, and fully meet the needs of the owners.

Functional Features

Sheds attached to the house, see photo examples in the gallery, can be attached for various household needs, from the main functions we will highlight the most common:

  • Extensions above the entrance group serve as protection for the porch and entrance door from precipitation.
  • Terraces and verandas are a place for outdoor recreation.
  • Covered galleries, often made of metal and polycarbonate, provide a comfortable entrance to the house and at the same time provide parking for a car.

Large sheds attached to the house, photo of a practical, arched design

  • Awnings over windows, usually awnings, protect from the bright sun.
  • Outbuildings for storing firewood and other household utensils are built on the back side of the house; sometimes, with due imagination, these are original, exclusive structures that decorate the facade of the building.

Sheds attached to a house made of corrugated sheets, photo of outbuildings for firewood

Types of canopies for the house

Canopies near the house are divided according to the method of support to the main building:

  • Cantilever - small canopies on mensols or embedded elements.
  • Suspended - roofs on metal cables.
  • Supporting – on vertical pillars around the entire perimeter;
  • Support-beam - the edge located closer to the house rests on a beam tied to the wall, which helps distribute the load over the entire surface of the supporting structure, and the opposite - on the pillars.

Design Features

Canopies for private homes and public buildings are usually:

  • Open – roof that protects from precipitation: entrance lobby, terrace, parking lot, outbuildings.
  • Semi-closed - a blind parapet is provided at the bottom 900-1200 mm, and the openings are closed with thick curtains, soft glass, lattice, climbing plants, grapes: terraces, gazebos.
  • Covered - glazed buildings of various types, usually verandas, attached corridors, greenhouses.
Good to know: To preserve heat, it is better to glaze the canopy with plastic or wooden windows with double or triple glazing, with a tilt and turn opening mechanism. If the room is for a warm period, then the ideal option is sliding aluminum systems; they open easily and do not obstruct the view; if necessary, the transoms can be removed or moved to one side. Lightweight gallery canopies can be sheathed with polycarbonate.

Sheds attached to a house made of polycarbonate, photo of the original design, echoing the shape of the steps

Roof

Buildings adjacent to the house may have different rafter systems. The easiest way is to make a pitched roof, at an angle of 15-25 o, it protects from precipitation, but does not protect from gusts of wind and dust. A gable roof is more practical, although it looks more cumbersome. Often it is arranged if the main building has a roof of the same shape.

A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, photo of an open terrace for relaxation

Recently, arched structures have become popular, usually a polycarbonate canopy attached to a house on a metal frame. The buildings have gained popularity due to their low price, ease of installation and a certain elegance due to the materials. They do not clutter up the architectural ensemble and are practical, reliable protection from atmospheric surprises.

Materials

Before you make a canopy for your house, you should carefully select the materials for construction. Essentially, this is a frame and a roof; let’s look at what is best to make each structural element from.

Frame

The basis for a canopy for a house is traditionally made of wood, metal, stone, concrete, brick. The choice depends on the design of the main building, financial capabilities and preferences of the owners.

The easiest to manufacture are wooden canopies; the material is easily processed with household tools, working with it does not require professional skills. For supports, use a rounded log or timber 100*100, 150*150 mm; for decoration you can buy ready-made carvings, figured columns and balusters, and an openwork lattice. Wooden buildings look beautiful and noble, but do not tolerate moisture and biological influences well, and are afraid of fire. To preserve the aesthetics of the canopy for the house, ensure fire safety and avoid damage to load-bearing structures by insects, rodents, and fungi, it is necessary to thoroughly impregnate all elements with protective compounds.

Corner canopies for the house, a project for a functional extension with an additional balcony area

Metal canopies for the house are the most popular and diverse type of structures:

  • prefabricated, prefabricated aluminum products, often under a tent roof;
  • welded structures made of metal profiles or round pipes;
  • welded stainless steel extensions;
  • forged awnings for the house.

Working with metal requires equipment and the ability to work with it, but such buildings are the most durable and durable compared to wooden ones, the cost of the products is approximately the same. A serious enemy of a metal frame is rust; all parts must be cleaned, primed and painted. Another disadvantage is that the material quickly heats up and cools down, so if a parapet is provided for the canopy, then it is better to make the railings wooden.

An example of how to make a beautiful canopy for a house from a metal profile with your own hands; you can decorate the extension with ready-made forged elements

Helpful advice: To decorate a welded canopy for a house, use ready-made stamped forging.

Concrete, stone and brick awnings to the house look massive and solid. As a rule, they are planned at the project development stage and are built together with the house, under a single roof. If the extension is done later, you should think about the foundation and connection to the house; professionals do not recommend making a rigid coupling of two buildings, since cracks, breaks, and destruction may occur due to the difference in the weight of the buildings and heaving of the soil.

To properly make a canopy for your house, it is better to take projects online and adjust them to your own dimensions

Roofing material

Designers advise covering the shed roof with the same roofing material as the main house, but this is not always advisable, especially if the extension is small and done later. Today, the best solution is cellular polycarbonate 6-8 mm thick - fast, practical, inexpensive, you can choose the color, looks easy, suitable for frames made of any materials and for all rafter systems, indispensable for arched structures.

For single- and double-slope roofs, corrugated sheets, metal tiles, ondulin, roofing felt, and slate are often used. For a soft roof, a continuous sheathing made of moisture-resistant plywood, OSB, bars, slats or edged boards is required.

Canopy for the house made of polycarbonate, in the photo there is a beam-support structure

How to make a canopy for your house with your own hands

We will make a wooden canopy for the house with our own hands, place it along the wall, the roof is pitched, the foundation is strip.

Site preparation and foundation pouring

We clear the area near the house, remove the fertile layer of soil, drive in pegs around the perimeter and in the locations of the load-bearing elements, pull the rope, check the geometry. According to the markings, we dig trenches 700 mm deep, pour 100 mm of crushed stone and 100 mm of sand onto the bottom, and tamp the cushion.

The height of the foundation strip for a canopy must be greater than the width

On the pillow we knit a reinforcing frame made of corrugated rods with a cross-section of 8-10 mm. In the corners, we hammer 3-4 rods directly into the ground, attach horizontal reinforcement to them, and use tie wire for fixation.

The reinforcing frame for the canopy can be made of polypropylene reinforcement and tied with plaits

We make the sheathing from edged boards or plywood soaked in machine oil, strengthen it with bevels, and check it with a level. We fill the foundation of the canopy to the house with concrete.

The tape should be poured simultaneously to avoid the formation of seams

After 28 days, after the concrete has completely set, we remove the sheathing and cover the bottom with geotextiles, which can be replaced with roofing felt. Overlapping joints 100-250 mm.

Geotextiles will protect wood from accumulating dampness from the ground

Important: The canopy to the house must have its own independent foundation. It is not recommended to tie 2 bases to a rigid hitch.

Frame

We lay sheets of roofing material on the tape where the wooden beams will pass. We treat timber 150*150 mm with antiseptics and a fire-resistant compound, lay it on the foundation, and attach the logs to each other on galvanized corners.

We cover the outer, visible part of the foundation with artificial stone, and spread roofing material on top of the joists.

To finish the base, you can use any natural material or decorative plaster.

We lay the floor from edged boards, 50*150 mm, chamfered at the edges 2-3 mm, fastened to special studs, the gap between the sheets is 2 mm. Near the wall of the house and along the outside of the canopy we install vertical posts, 150*150 mm beams, and fix them with anchor bolts.

Natural plank flooring can be replaced with decking

We make the strapping with the same timber along the upper heads of the supports. We attach it to the house with anchors; a horizontal beam will help distribute the load across the entire load-bearing wall.

A wooden rafter system can be replaced with a metal truss made from a 40*40 mm metal profile

We lay the rafter beams, connecting the outer and inner posts in pairs, and strengthen the connections with bevels. We rest the inner edge of the rafter leg on the beam, the outer edge should extend beyond the frame by 300 mm. We attach it to the slide or corners.

To ensure the strength of the canopy, double fastening should be done to the house.

To make a rafter system, you can take a 150*40 mm edged board. After assembly, be sure to check the vertical and horizontal of the frame with a level and plumb line.

The optimal distance between the logs is 1000-1500 mm

We make a transverse lathing from a bar with an edge of 50*50, 60*60 mm. We fix it with nails or self-tapping screws. We prime the frame and coat it with varnish or colored oil.

The frequency of sheathing depends on the roofing material and the snow and wind loads in the region

We lay polycarbonate on top, join the sheets through special strips, and attach them to the beam using thermal washers.

A polycarbonate canopy attached to the house, in the photo there is a glazed veranda

If necessary, we cover the openings with monolithically cast polycarbonate or glass. You can decorate a canopy for your house with decorative openwork grilles or carvings.

Planning the arrangement of the courtyard space of a private house often involves making a canopy. This relatively simple and reliable design can be used to protect the car from rain, snow or direct sunlight. Places for outdoor recreation are arranged under it. How to make a canopy in the courtyard of a private house with your own hands at minimal cost?

Choosing a canopy design

At the first stage, you need to choose the right place for the future structure. To do this, the total area of ​​the canopy, its height and configuration are calculated. It should not reduce the natural lighting of rooms in a private house; there must be no direct contact with power lines. The next stage is the choice of design.

The main difference between the models is the roof configuration. According to this parameter, canopies are conditionally divided into the following groups:

  • Single-pitch. The easiest option for self-production. It is important to correctly calculate the angle of inclination of the roof and choose the appropriate material for its arrangement. Disadvantage – insufficient degree of protection in case of side winds during rain or snow. Such canopies are most often made close to the house to reduce the influence of this factor.
  • Gable. They have all the advantages of a similar roof for a house - uniform load on the snow cap, protection from slanting rain. The complexity of the arrangement lies in the formation of the ridge part and the calculation of the angle of inclination of the slopes.
  • Arched. They have the best aesthetic and performance properties. They are used as roofing material. Difficulties arise during the manufacture of the frame - the arched parts must be identical to avoid refractions of the polycarbonate and ensure its tight pressing.

The choice depends on the availability of materials, the possibility of purchasing them, tools and experience in the construction of such structures. Most often they stop at a simple lean-to canopy.

Manufacturing materials

The future design is subject to special requirements - it must be reliable, not subject to change over a long period of time, and resistant to moisture and temperature changes. In addition to the configuration, these parameters are affected by the material of manufacture.

The main elements of a canopy for the yard of a private house:

  • Support posts. They must withstand the weight of the roof, and the snow load is additionally taken into account.
  • Roofing material fixation system. Most often, a lattice base is made on which the roofing material is installed. If it is polycarbonate, the distance between the fasteners is as large as possible to ensure illumination of the enclosed area.
  • Roofing material. You can use any suitable material, from ordinary roofing felt to cellular polycarbonate. It is important to follow the installation technology and provide waterproof protection.

Each of these elements needs to be considered in more detail.

Frame

To save space and reliability, it is recommended to choose round or square pipes as the material for making racks. They are relatively easy to process; after installation, a protective coating of a layer of paint is applied. The connection of elements is done using welding. The mechanical assembly is not reliable enough.

The supporting racks must be made of square pipes with a minimum size of 100 * 100 mm. The support for the roof deck is made from scraps of a smaller section - 50 * 50 mm. The amount of material depends on the size of the canopy and its height.

An alternative to steel pipes is a frame made of wooden blocks and boards. It is less reliable than metal; wood dries out and changes shape under the influence of moisture and temperature.

It is used if consumables are available, in order to create an architectural ensemble that is unified with the house. Before assembly, the elements must be treated with moisture-proof and antifungal agents.

Roof

The use of traditional roofing material will provide protection from moisture and a long service life of the coating. Additionally, you need to take into account the rules of arrangement. Some will require a solid base, which will increase the labor intensity of the work.

Materials used for canopy roofing:

  • Polycarbonate. The best choice in terms of quality, installation complexity and reliability. The low specific gravity and windage are compensated by the increased frequency of fastening. ABOUT .
  • Sheet slate. An economical option, but it is heavy, so be sure to use a waterproof film.
  • Bitumen roofing. It is laid on a solid base and is light in weight. Disadvantage: to ensure tightness, the seams undergo heat treatment, which requires standing on the roof. This is impossible if the structure is not designed to support the weight of an adult.
  • Profiled sheeting. Its properties are similar to slate, but it is characterized by low weight and ease of installation.

After selecting all consumables, you can begin construction.

Canopy in the courtyard of a house: step-by-step manufacturing instructions

First you need to prepare the site. It is leveled and filled with concrete. An alternative is laying paving slabs. An option with less labor costs is to arrange a foundation only for support columns. A prerequisite is a flat surface for attaching the racks.

Then you need to do the following.

  1. Install support columns and secure them. Use a level and plumb to check the correct position.
  2. Temporary stiffeners can be used to secure the supports.
  3. Installation of the base for the roof, fastening it to the supporting structure.
  4. Installation of roofing material.
  5. Checking the reliability of the canopy.

If profile pipes were used as the manufacturing material, after assembly they need to be primed and painted.

Sometimes a farm may require a large wooden shed measuring 6 by 20. This could be a shed for parking several cars, in order to cover a production site or a storage area for building materials. Sometimes it can be simply a canopy attached to the house and stretching along the entire wall in order to simultaneously cover a passage, passage, parking area, resting place or storage area for equipment. If the canopy is attached to the house, then the most convenient roof structure with such dimensions is a lean-to roof.

Order a canopy?

We make canopies from polycarbonate and glass.
There are promotional carport prices - turnkey carport 3.6 x 6.3 = 63,000 rubles!!!
turnkey carport for 2 cars 5.7 x 6.3 = 128,000 rubles!!!


A canopy, even of this size, is not the most complex design, but it definitely requires accurate calculation to create an effective slope angle and select the best material for the roof so that it does not break in winter under the weight of snow. The supporting frame must survive any storms characteristic of the region, otherwise, if errors were made in the calculations, it may simply collapse.

Selection of building materials

To create a strong and reliable structure of this size, you will have to spend money on structural elements. You will need:

1. Support pillars with a cross-section of at least 150 by 200,

2. beams of the same section (their number depends on the length, the beams will have to be spliced),

3. rafters with a cross-section of at least 100 by 150, preferably 200 by 100, depending on the snow load of the region. The pitch between the rafters must be calculated based on the roofing material. If you plan to roof from polycarbonate, then the step needs to be taken more often, 0.7 m. When covering with corrugated sheets, the step can be increased.

The minimum slope of the slope should be at least 12 degrees, or better yet more, so that the snow can easily slide off the roof. The material for the roof should also be taken according to financial capabilities, preferably not rough, so that it does not slow down the sliding of snow.

A minimum slope is created by building walls opposite each other of different heights. For example, to create a slope of 12-13 degrees, the length of the supports should correspond to 3.7 m at the point of attachment to the house and 2.6 m at the lower point of the opposite row.

Support arrangement

When marking the area for the canopy, it is necessary to take into account that the extension from the outside of the roof should be equal to 20 cm. Based on this, along the wall to which the canopy will adjoin and opposite, the installation locations of the support pillars are marked. For example, you can take a step of 3 meters between the pillars. Concrete foundations must be poured under the support pillars. The support column can be immersed in concrete, having previously treated it with anti-rotting impregnations and wrapped in thick polyethylene. You can use embedded parts - anchors. Anchors can also be dismantled and sunk directly into concrete. To create a concrete foundation, a hole 90 cm deep is enough.

The supports are screwed to the anchors with anchors. First, a row is installed near the wall of the house. Then the second outer row of supports is installed. The supports must be installed strictly opposite each other, strictly vertically and aligned to the required height, taking into account the planned slope. That is, the supports near the wall should be higher than the outside ones.

Frame structure

Supporting horizontal beams are attached to the support pillars. You also need to start work from a row from the wall.

The beams are laid on support pillars and spliced ​​together with metal plates. After the horizontal level has been checked, the beams are fastened with self-tapping screws to the support pillars and with the help of fasteners to the wall of the house.

To create a more durable structure, the beams on the opposite side are additionally reinforced with spacers in both directions at an angle of 45 degrees from each support column. The spacers are also attached with self-tapping screws.

The crossbars can be mounted using self-tapping screws, or using metal mounting angles. Beams from the edges are installed first, then in the center, then the rest.

The offset should be at least 20 cm. Lastly, the end board is placed on the ends of the boards.

For greater strength, you can strengthen the outer beams with rafter legs. To do this, a beam is attached to the supporting pillars on the side of the wall at the level of the end of the pillars on the opposite side at an angle of 45 degrees, which will hold the rafters and roof in the winter, when there is excess snow weight.

It is difficult to imagine a modern country house without a canopy. This architectural structure serves two important functions. Firstly, it protects the building from rain and sun. Secondly, it is an excellent means of decorating the facade of a house. Hardworking and inventive owners of summer cottages have come up with a lot of ways to create an additional roof over their heads, which can be made from scrap materials and have a wide variety of shapes.

Types of canopies

The classification of canopies is extensive. Depending on the design features they are:

  • inclined (double or single slope);
  • straight;
  • multifaceted (in the form of curved arches, domes, pyramids, polygons, arcs).

Depending on their location, canopies are divided into:

  • free-standing, erected away from the main building (carports, landscape sheds);
  • attached. They are erected above the entrance to the house or above the open veranda;
  • built-in They are an integral part of the architectural ensemble. Most often they are built into a barbecue area or into an existing building;
  • decorative. Serve as decoration for garden compositions.

If we talk about materials, canopies can be made of stone, wood, polycarbonate, or combined.

A wooden canopy is the most popular type, because it is easy to implement and does not require any special expenses for arrangement. Anyone can build such a structure if they have the desire.

DIY wooden canopy

Are you puzzling over the problem of how to build a wooden shed and don’t know where to start construction work? The first step towards realizing your cherished goal is developing a project.

Project development

Wooden shed designs are designed to analyze existing conditions. Especially if the structure will be attached to an already finished building. Information about the foundation and facade wall of the house is extremely important, as well as climatic conditions (wind load, snow thickness in winter, cardinal directions in the location chosen for construction).

In addition, it would not be amiss to think about decorative elements, types of roofing materials that are preferable in a particular case, and choose the shape and size of the canopy. The more detailed your project is, the easier it will be to put it into practice. Accurate numbers will help you correctly calculate the amount of required consumables. The easiest way is to make a wooden canopy over the porch that will be reliable and stable.

When developing a project, you should take into account the working dimensions of roofing materials. Lay the slate sheets overlapping on the ground across and along the waves. Only after receiving the exact dimensions of the clean roof can you get down to business.

Installation of racks

The design of a wooden canopy can be made from any wood, but pine will best cope with its responsibilities. It is beautiful, durable, light in weight and can fit seamlessly into any exterior.

The tree can be freshly cut, the main thing is that there is no bark on the beams. The recommended cross-section is no less than 75x75 mm. The part of the beam installed on the ground is treated with bitumen mastic before installation, which protects against the negative effects of moisture. The pillars are installed at a distance of a meter from each other so that the roof hangs over the front by at least 200 mm, on the sides (along the waves) - by 50-100 mm.

Using a hand drill or shovel, we prepare wells located along the same line, 500 mm deep. Do not forget to check the diagonals of the canopy - they must be the same. Using a plumb line or a building level, we install the slats. Strictly vertical. For fixation we use auxiliary bars, which can then be removed without any problems.

The free space is filled with concrete or crushed stone. The second option is more profitable. Crushed stone costs nothing, does not require complex mixing, and “holds” just fine. After installing the pillars, they must be cut in height with a bevel corresponding to the slope of the plane so that the rafters rest on the upper ends of the beam. Using a tapping cord or hydraulic level, we get a horizontal line.

The height of the racks at the bottom of the slope should not be lower than 1800 mm. However, if you are planning a shelving or table in this part, then this figure can be made smaller.

Installation of rafters

Next, the installation of a wooden canopy proceeds to a simple, but requiring extreme care, stage - installation of the rafter system. Rafters are beams with a section of 150x50 mm. This strength will be quite enough to cover a 6-meter span. Subject to the slope and calculated weight, of course.

The distance between the rafters is about 1 meter. One side is attached to a wall or support board, mounted in advance, and the other is placed on the racks, passing the line at the site of the planned overhang strictly perpendicularly. Wood screws or steel angles are used to connect the components of the rafter system. Fastening to a mineral base, for example, a brick wall, is carried out using corners, consoles, dowels or metal anchors.

We carry out the sheathing

The sheathing is made on top of the rafters (perpendicularly). It is better to use edged boards with a width of 160 mm and a thickness of 30 mm. The boards are distributed along the axes at a distance of 900 mm.

The boards must fit under the joints and the middle of the slate sheets (size 900x1800 mm). The last and first lines should be along the edges of the slope. Screwing must be done using self-tapping screws.

Laying slate

The wooden shed for the dacha is almost completed. You can begin laying the roof covering. The slate is screwed onto the top of the wave using galvanized self-tapping screws equipped with a countersunk head. Experts advise placing special plastic washers under the heads. An average of 11 screws are required per sheet. If there are no washers, then they can be replaced with “Ranilov self-tapping screws” or fasteners with a press washer.

Slate manufacturers often complete their products with trapezoidal or round spacers, which allow them to securely fasten the screws without disturbing the wave shape. Slate sheets are mounted from bottom to top. The rows overlap each other by 100 mm. For reliability, it is better to keep the front and side overhangs minimal (50-100 mm). If necessary, slate is cut with a regular grinder with a diamond wheel.

Important nuances of work

Wooden elements require treatment with compounds that protect against precipitation, mold, mildew and create a decorative effect that is attractive to the eye. Impregnation can be either colorless or tinted.

Now you know how to make a wooden canopy. There are only a few points that require immediate consideration. Pay due attention to the floor. A simple backfill of coarse crushed stone, plank flooring, sandstone cladding, concrete screed - the choice of how to create the “soil” is yours.


Make sure there is light and a couple of outlets under the canopy. The functionality of the finished structure will be added to the grill, hob, barbecue. Decor variations will depend only on your preferences - you can age the wood, decorate it with climbing plants, wooden shelves, and handmade vases. Think, try and make your dream of a corner of coziness and comfort in the lap of nature come true.

Wooden canopy: photo

Wooden canopy: video

Making a wooden canopy with your own hands is not at all difficult. In just a few days you will have an excellent design that will protect firewood, grain, a car, and a barbecue from precipitation. In order to save a lot of time, money and effort, it is necessary to develop a clear action plan. This is what we will do in step-by-step instructions.

Installation of supports - the basics

First of all, we need to think about what our structure will be supported on. Some craftsmen recommend simply installing wooden logs on the ground, onto which you can then nail the sheathing, reinforcements and roof. You can do this, but where is the guarantee that tomorrow it won’t rain and blow your canopy 50 centimeters away? Wet and loose soil is the main enemy of wooden structures installed on the ground.

That is why we will only consider supports installed on a concrete base. This is the only way the structure will be level after any rainfall. Let's start our construction from the "foundation", if you can call it that, and look at the step-by-step instructions for pouring it.

Step 1 Dig a hole.

To save concrete, we make a round columnar foundation. You can rent or borrow a hand drill from a neighbor to make holes with a diameter of 35 to 60 centimeters. 35 will be enough. The main thing is the depth, which cannot be less than 50 cm - this is necessary to avoid possible subsidence on loose soil. No drill? We take it and dig.

Step 2 Pour the foundation.

It is important for us to obtain a high specific gravity of concrete, and not its strength characteristics. Therefore, we mix 1:4 with sand and add another 3 parts of coarse crushed stone to bind the materials. Make it very rare and pour it into the hole.

Step 3 Make a base.

It is necessary to raise the foundation 10 centimeters above the ground so that the wood does not touch the wet soil. You can do it this way: select a metal barrel of suitable diameter (a 3-liter paint can will do), place it on top of the foundation and fill it with concrete. Remove after 2 days.

All that remains is to simply install wooden poles with a diameter of 20-30 centimeters and first tie them into a pile with the bottom strapping at the level of 80-90 centimeters. High precision is not necessary; you can estimate the evenness of the pillars “by eye”, since then we will measure with a level when installing the top trim.

Lathing, strapping, anti-corrosion treatment of frame

To make a canopy at the dacha with your own hands from wood, you need to master the level - this is the main tool. It will help make a smooth structure. Since the wooden log (25 cm in diameter) will be rounded, its shape is close to ideal, so leveling will be easy. Let's look at step-by-step instructions on how to properly make a harness.

Step 1 Align the pillars.

Take a level and lean it vertically against the support. If everything matches, then you can pile up the first 2 supports. After this, we lean the level again and measure. Repeat the procedure every time a new column is added to the bundle. After you have tied everything together, you need to measure the angle of inclination of the structure in all directions, since after nailing the rafters it will be too late.

Step 2 We install the rafters.

The easiest way is to make a lean-to building, then the rafters just need to be laid at an angle of 1 slope every 70 centimeters. But when constructing a gable roof, you will have to take into account another ridge. Using a plumb line and a tape measure, we determine the middle of the room, raise the vertical and attach the ridge to 2 slats. Next, we adjust all the rafters to it at an angle of 45 degrees. This is the ideal angle for a 4x4 meter canopy. Make lathing every 50 centimeters from 35x55 timber.

Step 3 We treat everything with anti-corrosion suspensions.

You can use standard wood stain and varnish, but we recommend treating with exterior stone varnish. It is characterized by maximum penetration into the material, protects the board for many years and protects against biological corrosion.

Pro tip: it is recommended to leave the rafters 30-45 centimeters after the top trim, since moisture can get on the wood during strong winds or snowfall. No matter how good the protection of the tree, it will still rot if it is constantly wet.

Roofing installation

If you don’t know how to make a wooden canopy with your own hands, and what kind of roof to install, then it’s worth evaluating all the advantages of the materials offered on the market. As a rule, to save money, ordinary slate, metal tiles or profiled sheets are used. The latter cost very little, are durable and are easily attached to the sheathing. Let's take a closer look at their installation!

Step 1 We measure.

Lay several sheets and check with a level along the bottom edge so that nothing is mowing. It can be attached with a self-tapping screw so that the material does not “run away” anywhere during its measurements.

Step 2 Screw it on.

Using the help, we make 2 holes per 1 sheet, and we must drill immediately with the sheathing. Then we take M8 bolts and nuts and attach them. We measure everything and only then tighten it with wrenches. It is advisable to use special plastic washers for the outside to limit moisture and seal the sheet well.

Step 3 We cut off everything unnecessary with a grinder.

If somewhere there is a corner on the last row or the skate does not please you with its curvature, you can trim it with a grinder.

If you do everything correctly and constantly measure the slopes, then you won’t have to level anything, the sheets will all become as they were.

Wooden awnings for a summer residence are one of the simplest designs where you can safely experiment, because even if something goes wrong, everything can be redone quickly and not difficult.