Linoleum is used for installation both in residential premises and in administrative centers. This popularity of the material is explained by its low cost. It is easy to care for, and even an amateur can handle the installation work. However, a wooden floor is fraught with several nuances that should be taken into account before choosing a material. During work, certain rules and technology must be observed. This will avoid mistakes in the future.

Types of material

First of all, you should choose the right material. There are several types of linoleum that you need to know before starting repairs. In the store, it is better to pay attention to canvases that will have a width equal to the width of the room. This will help eliminate a number of inconveniences:

reduction in the aesthetics of the coating due to the formation of joints;
possible bending of the material;
the likelihood of moisture penetration under the coating;
discomfort when walking on the surface.

When covering a multi-panel wooden floor with linoleum, special care should be taken. Each joint must be performed as carefully as possible. They must be securely fastened. In this case, you can invite specialists. When installing it yourself, it is better to choose a solid sheet.

To figure out how to properly lay linoleum, you need to understand the main types of coating:

PVC linoleum, which has excellent thermal and sound insulation properties.
Alkyd - this material has high strength, but during operation small cracks may appear on it.
Fabric has excellent elasticity and strength.
Baseless - with the help of such material the structure of the floor is easily leveled. Its installation protects the floor from mechanical loads.
Colloxylin linoleum has a pleasant shine and bends well.

Before you properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you should understand the characteristics of the material. It is better if a natural product is chosen. It is safe for the environment and is not capable of causing harm to humans. However, it has one big drawback - it does not last very long.

The choice of linoleum in a wooden house is necessary not only depending on aesthetic indicators. You should select a material with a thickness of at least 3 mm. It is better to choose linoleum with a margin of thickness. The optimal choice is 7 mm.

Preparing the base

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor begins, the surface should be properly leveled. This eliminates future coverage problems. Linoleum is characterized by excellent flexibility. This means that after a certain period of time, it will repeat the relief of the underlying layer. This can cause certain problems from an aesthetic point of view.

The basis should be carefully examined. This stage includes sealing all cracks, as well as depressions and gaps between the boards. It is necessary to check the condition of the fastening points of the floorboards. It is better that the linoleum floor does not creak in any area.

If installed correctly, the wooden base will not creak or “walk” under your feet while moving around the room. It is also necessary to take care of the high-quality sealing of the heads of screws and nails. If several elements stick out from the floor surface, the linoleum may break through in the future. To eliminate such problems, it is necessary to sink all fasteners into the wood using a hammer or screwdriver.

If the rough covering has several damaged boards, they must be replaced with new ones. In this case, the surface should remain flat. For new elements, choose well-dried boards. It is better to use mastic to remove cracks and cracks. If there are slight unevenness in the base, you should go over the floor with a plane or sanding machine.

If more serious preparation is required, plywood is usually used for leveling. In this way, significant differences in foundation heights can be eliminated. In this case, you can get a completely flat flooring, on which it will be very simple to lay linoleum. The plywood is laid out on the floor in advance without fastening. This is necessary for an accurate fit.

A gap of 3-5 mm should be left between the edges of the plywood sheets and the walls. It is necessary to compensate for the thermal expansion of the floor. It is also necessary to leave a gap between adjacent sheets. You can understand how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor after familiarizing yourself with the technology of work.

Laying sheets of plywood must be done in a staggered manner. Each next row should be offset from the previous one. This installation method resembles brickwork. Plywood should be laid in 2 layers. For fastening you should use PVA glue. As soon as it dries, additional fixation of the elements with self-tapping screws should be carried out.

Once the work is completed, the joints must be sanded well. The cracks are filled with putty. Before this, it is necessary to remove all debris and small elements of building materials from the surface.

During the operation of the floor, plywood can perform a number of important tasks:

elimination of coating subsidence;
increased sound insulation;
thermal insulation;
precise surface leveling.

Linoleum can be laid on such a coating quickly and without problems. Before you figure out how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you need to decide on its size.

Selection of linoleum by size

As you know, for ease of installation, purchase linoleum of such a width that it can be laid in a room without joints. If the renovation is carried out in a standard building, there should not be any serious problems during installation. To determine the exact size of the canvas, you should take the necessary measurements in the room in advance.

Width and length are measured in several places. The purchase is carried out according to the maximum indicators. It is better to have a small margin in width and length. The standard margin is 3-5%.

It must be remembered that linoleum is not cut before installation. This can lead to serious errors during installation. A single strip is laid on plywood or wooden flooring.

It is necessary to provide allowances at the edges of the floor. The material is cut only after installation of the canvas. If only half of the room is covered with a roll, the joint should be made in the center. In this case, more material will be consumed. This is explained by the need to align the pattern.

As soon as the material is purchased, it should be placed in the room in which the installation will be carried out for several hours. There is no need to unroll the roll for storing linoleum in the room. This will ensure that the coating is adapted to the conditions of a particular room. At the same time, the linoleum will change its size slightly. Then the material is spread on the base and left to lie for several days. In the future, this will ensure maximum adherence of the coating to the base.

Work technology

There are several ways to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor. Experienced installers use the main ones:

Installation without glue. In this case, linoleum is attached to a wooden base using skirting boards. This method is great for rooms with a small area.
With double-sided tape. They are used to glue the covering fabric around the perimeter.
For glue. This method is the most reliable.

When using the latter method, the coating will be fixed very firmly. It is relevant when repairing floors in large rooms.

When fixing linoleum without glue, the procedure is as follows:

the material is rolled out over the surface of the base;
wait for several days;
fix the material with skirting boards.

At the last stage, it is necessary to control the formation of bubbles.

When attaching the canvas to tape, you need to glue the tape around the perimeter of the room, then lay the linoleum, roll the roll to the middle of the room, peel off the protective layer of tape and unwind the roll. Such procedures should be performed with the utmost care. This will prevent bubbles from appearing. How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor? When performing such work, a number of rules must be followed.

When attaching the material to glue, the following actions are performed:

first the roll must be laid out on the floor;
then cut the corners so that the material fits as tightly as possible;
roll half of the linoleum;
Unroll the roll, simultaneously gluing the mounting surface.

As soon as one half is completed, the second side of the roll should be glued. After laying the covering, it is necessary to cut off excess material and install skirting boards. If the floor in the room is covered with two strips of linoleum, you should use the cold welding method.

Creating a background

To figure out how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor, you should become familiar with the features of preparing the base. To install linoleum, only leveling is not always necessary. Sometimes it is necessary to create an additional substrate. Such material is necessary to increase the sound and heat insulation properties of the coating.

In addition, the substrate corrects the unevenness of the base. It is especially necessary in cases where plywood was not laid on the flooring. Thanks to the presence of the substrate, various unevenness of the base is corrected. It is usually installed if there is no time to level the wooden floor.

There are several types of substrate:

If you know these types of substrates, you can make the best choice for laying linoleum in a particular room.

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor is a task that is entirely within the capabilities of those who do not even have special training. To do the job correctly, just familiarize yourself with the simple rules. What should a person who decides to replace his old wood flooring with a new one know? First of all, he must find as much information as possible about what he will encounter in the process of work. As they say, you need to know the enemy by sight. Let's start with this!

All about linoleum and its installation

Linoleum is usually made from natural raw materials (jute fabric, tree resin, linseed oil, limestone powder, cork flour). This flooring is universal; it is suitable for apartments, private houses, offices and commercial structures. It is especially good for flooring in places with high traffic, for example, if we are talking about a living space, then this is the floor in the kitchen, hallway, living room. The popularity of this building material is obvious; it has excellent strength, water resistance, wear resistance, and elasticity. In addition, linoleum is easy to install and maintain. Another undeniable advantage is the reasonable price; everyone can find something to suit their budget. In construction markets you can now find thousands of types of linoleum.

Depending on the raw materials, the product can be divided into the following types:

Alkyd coating containing alkyd resins, pigments and mineral fillers. It is produced on both synthetic and natural bases.
It comes in one-color, multi-color and with a pattern. This type of linoleum is resistant to abrasion and has high heat and sound insulation properties. Disadvantages: fragility, tendency to break.
The PVC type is made from a polymer material. The bases are different (foam, heat-insulating, fabric, there are products without a base at all).
Rubber linoleum (aka relin). Material thickness - 3 mm. The bottom layer is made from a mixture of recycled crushed rubber and bitumen, the top layer is made from colored rubber. This product is characterized by high levels of water resistance and elasticity. It is used more often in industrial and industrial premises.
Colloxyl linoleum is a coating made from nitrocellulose. This material is moisture-resistant, elastic, and has a beautiful shine.
The design applied to the product, in accordance with the technology, is covered with a protective layer, the density and thickness of which determines the wear resistance of the material. The larger the layer, the higher the cost of linoleum. According to this criterion, the following are distinguished:
1. Household linoleum. It has a fairly good wear resistance and is used in residential areas.
2. Commercial linoleum has the highest wear resistance. Area of application: high traffic areas.
3. Semi-commercial linoleum is characterized by average wear resistance. It is recommended to lay the material in offices and other premises with average traffic.
The use of a product according to the classification, of course, is a recommendation, but do not forget that selecting a coating in accordance with its purpose is the key to successful operation. By the way, for installation on wood it is better to purchase linoleum with good sound and heat insulation. Have you decided on the choice of material? Then start laying it on the floor!

Stage No. 1: How to lay linoleum, surface preparation

Linoleum should only be laid on a flat surface. The fact is that if this condition is not met, then all the flaws in the floor will be visible through the coating, in addition, this will subsequently lead to deformation of the product. The formula here is this: the better the base is prepared, the more beautiful the new coating looks and the longer it will last you. A plank floor becomes deformed and damaged over time, which is why construction experts recommend laying plywood, fiberboard or chipboard sheets under linoleum.

If the wooden floor is well preserved, then a slab thickness of only 5-8 mm is suitable, but if there are serious differences, then at least 1.5 cm. The floor is prepared in the following sequence (this is painstaking work, but it is impossible to bypass this stage):

Remove old paint from the floor (if any) with a putty knife. To make the paint come off easier, heat it with a hair dryer.
Nail the boards that squeak when you walk to the joists.
Level the surface with a plane (manual or electric). A parquet sander will also work.
Vacuum the old floor, wash it thoroughly and dry it. If you decide to use plywood, then purchase a special parquet adhesive that contains filler to increase viscosity. Place the plywood sheets with an offset of approximately 1/2 sheet.
Additionally, attach the already glued plywood to the floor with nails. Fill the gaps with the same mastic that was used to glue the plywood sheets to the floor, and sand the joints.
Soak the dried sheets with warm drying oil.

Stage No. 2: preparing the material for installation

Before laying the material on a wooden floor, it is necessary for it to rest for a couple of days, stand, and straighten out. All this should take place exclusively at room temperature. The product must be absolutely smooth, without kinks or folds. Notice any of the above? By pressing the flooring with boards or books, eliminate errors. If the crease and fold cannot be manipulated, the piece of linoleum will have to be replaced, otherwise you will have a lot of problems during work, in addition, the floor will look ugly. Another important point: all work must be carried out in a room with a humidity of 40-60%.

Now let's calculate the amount of material you will need. First, measure the length and width of the room, taking into account protrusions (the space under the window, door, closet). Add 10 cm to the resulting numbers. If there is a pattern, then take into account the margin. All this is very important in order to install linoleum correctly. Before installation, determine the correct direction of the coating. Place marble or plain flooring along the line of light. If you are laying linoleum on a wooden floor, then make the joints in the middle of the board. These simple tips will allow you to hide the seams as much as possible. Now let's prepare the tools needed for installation! These include a well-sharpened knife, a wooden spatula, rulers, a steel notched spatula, glue, and double-sided adhesive tape.

Trimming linoleum

About the methods of covering

There are three of them! The first one is without gluing. This method is considered the fastest, but it is only suitable for rooms with an area of no more than 11 square meters with low traffic. Be aware: with such flooring, the material wears out much faster, in addition, the likelihood of the formation of so-called waves increases. The second option is to fix the material with double-sided tape. This is a good protection for linoleum from premature wear. Another plus is that the tape can be removed if desired, but be aware that traces of it may remain on your floor. An alternative option is gluing with glue. If the room area is more than 20 square meters, then this is the only acceptable method. In this case, the service life of the coating increases, the disadvantage is that this process is quite labor-intensive.

Stage No. 3: how to lay linoleum correctly: the process in detail

Spread the linoleum over the surface.
Leave a margin of 5-10 cm on the baseboards.
Smooth the material with your hands from the center to the walls.
Make small cuts in the corners of the linoleum. If you chose the glue-free method, use a knife to cut off the excess along the baseboard. If you lay the flooring using double-sided tape, then glue it around the entire perimeter of the room without removing the protective tape. Only then, having unrolled the roll, fold one half over the other, then remove the protective paper, finally spread the linoleum, smooth it out.
If you are installing with glue, then first bend one half of the linoleum, apply glue to the base, spread the solution with a roller, and leave for 20 minutes. Then straighten the folded part of the material and carefully smooth it with your hands. The operation is similar on the other side. Cut off the excess linoleum, hide the edges under the baseboard, and place threshold slats in the doorway.

If for some reason you have to lay several strips (for example, if the room area is large or you couldn’t find linoleum of the required width), then you will probably be interested in knowing how to join them. This is done like this:

Strips of linoleum are laid so that one overlaps the other by about 10 cm.

One strip is folded over and glue is applied to it. Sticks to the base! The same is done with the second stripe.

Using a knife, both layers of material are cut off at the overlap, and the trimmings are removed. Both edges are glued.

After the solution has dried, the joints are glued; so-called cold welding is suitable for these purposes. First, adhesive tape is applied to the seam. When the seam is ready, the tape is removed.

A couple more points. After gluing, the material must be pressed tightly with a roller or a special roller. Remember, you should not step on linoleum until it is completely dry. Having familiarized yourself with all the subtleties in choosing linoleum and the rules for laying it on a wooden floor, without a doubt it will be easy for you to cope with the task without the help of specialists. Feel free to get to work!

Laying linoleum on a wooden floor video

Read on and find out more!

4 years ago

It is not at all surprising that linoleum has gained popularity among the population. The material is durable, practical, well suited for use in private homes. I think it is most suitable for the kitchen.

Linoleum as a flooring material is very versatile, but has a number of specific qualities. To lay it on a wooden floor, you must not only ensure the correct installation of the supporting system, but also properly treat the surface and follow the installation technology.

Features of the behavior of linoleum coating

A wooden subfloor is considered the most suitable base for laying linoleum. Plank flooring has a natural ability to regulate the microclimate: when there is excess moisture, the boards absorb it and release it back if the air is too dry. On a linoleum covering, this behavior of the base has the most favorable effect: the canvas does not warp, the top protective layer does not crack, making the floor possible to use in a very long term.

However, a wooden subfloor under linoleum requires special preparation. Basically, the requirements are for the smoothness of the surface, as well as the exclusion of damage to the wood by microorganisms. It is also necessary to prevent warping and shrinkage of the wood by all means; for this, the supporting system must be as rigid as possible.

Linoleum can serve for years, sometimes even decades, as a finishing floor covering, but only if a number of risks are eliminated. When laying on a wooden floor, the main factors that can damage the coating are:

Blistering of boards due to insufficient quality preparation of lumber. On the sharp edges of protruding boards, the coating quickly wears out and cracks.
Formation of condensation between linoleum and plank flooring. Usually this phenomenon occurs due to insufficient floor insulation. The result is the formation of mold and delamination of the coating under the influence of moisture.
Low adhesion of the subfloor, which is a consequence of insufficiently high-quality processing of the boards. The presence of burrs and high roughness do not allow the linoleum to be reliably glued to the base.

Scraping and sanding subfloors

Careful preparation of the wood base for laying linoleum is not required only if one of the cheapest materials is chosen as the coating with the prospect of replacing it in the near future. If the goal is to create a truly durable coating with an exclusive appearance, the boardwalk should be carefully processed.

Unlike the preparation of typesetting boards for finishing coating, scraping for linoleum has much smaller tolerances for roughness. Since linoleum is rarely covered with a rough covering of calibrated or tongue-and-groove boards, the main task comes down to leveling the overall plane to acceptable values.

At the first stage of preparation, the floor is subjected to rough stripping to lighten the wood. If there are traces of finishing materials on the board covering, they are removed with a brush sander until the solid body is exposed. In other cases, use a regular electric plane with blades removed to remove a layer of about 0.3-0.5 mm.

Next comes grinding the surface. With it, the movement of the abrasive should be carried out strictly along the fibers or at an acute angle to them. An acceptable result is the complete absence of burrs and fiber scuffing, that is, the result should be a visually smooth and uniform surface. For flooring made of boards without lashing, it is practiced to widen the seams with chamfering of about 1.5-2 mm using a corner chisel, this stage is especially important when installing a covering of high-quality linoleum with the prospect of its operation for the next 10-15 years. To complete the preparation, smooth flooring without protrusions between adjacent boards is impregnated with an antiseptic, thoroughly dried, primed and dust-free before laying the finishing coating.

Leveling with sheet materials

If the subfloor made of boards has a significant curvature or there is a fairly thick layer of paint on it, leveling with plywood or particle boards is practiced.

To level the floor under linoleum, a thickness of sheet material of about 6-8 mm is sufficient. Since there is a rigid base underneath, the displacement of the sheets at the joints can be neglected. If the boardwalk is significantly susceptible to warping, it is possible to lay compressible rolled materials like foamed polyethylene with a thickness of about 3-4 mm under the sheets. You can also eliminate swelling of joints by laying chipped cork directly under the linoleum itself.

Sheet materials for leveling must be firmly pulled to the floor. Along the edges of the sheets with an indentation of 30 mm and a pitch of 90-100 mm, fastening should be done with self-tapping screws. They also fasten the remaining plane of the sheets, on average one point for every 150-170 cm 2 planes. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you need to adjust the depth of recessing in order to subsequently avoid filling the marks from the fastener with putty and removing loose chips.

For leveling with sheets, use plywood of at least 2nd grade followed by sanding the surface or 3rd grade without sanding. When using OSB, preference should be given to sanded varnished boards. After laying and screwing the sheets, it is necessary to fill the joints with plastic glue, and then prime with PVA glue diluted with water to a third of the initial concentration.

Should I use underlay?

The soft compressive underlayment cannot be installed directly under the linoleum. In some cases, it is possible to glue rolled materials made of technical cork chips onto the base, followed by gluing the linoleum itself. The presence of a substrate is required if the quality of the preparation of the base is insufficient, in other words, if the protrusions between the boards exceed 1/3 of the thickness of the linoleum. The presence of cracks, large chips that cannot be removed by sanding, as well as holes from knots are the main range of indications for the use of cork backing.

Since wood has relatively low thermal conductivity, installing insulating materials under linoleum is also not practiced. In extreme cases, the thermal insulation properties of the coating can be improved by laying heterogeneous linoleum on a felt or foam base. This is much better than using a cork lining, because the quality of factory gluing is much higher than when installing a multi-layer floor covering yourself.

Rolling out the canvas, holding

When laying on any type of base, linoleum must be kept in room atmosphere for at least 48 hours. Of these, the first day it is allowed to keep the linoleum rolled up, however, at least 24 hours before gluing, the material must be laid out on the floor according to the laying diagram. During this time, the linoleum adapts to the temperature and humidity in the room, and residual shrinkage phenomena disappear.

When unwinding linoleum rolls, it is strictly forbidden to bend it at an angle higher than 90º. If upon delivery the material was at a temperature below +10 ºС, it cannot be heated forcibly, only at room temperature. When rolling out linoleum for the first time, wiping it with an aqueous solution of glycerin is widely used, which helps to avoid a reaction to a sudden change in humidity.

Some types of linoleum, especially natural ones, require more time to mature. Before laying the canvas, it does not need to be immediately cut along the contour of the walls of the room, otherwise there is a high risk that the covering will decrease in size and gaps will form near the walls that cannot be covered with a plinth.

Gluing linoleum

Absolutely all types of linoleum require rigid fixation to the subfloor. To ensure high-quality adhesion, the base is primed with diluted water-soluble glue. The primer is applied with a roller, ensuring thorough absorption and filling of pores. Linoleum is glued 1.5-2 hours after applying the primer.

Linoleum is glued along the long side of the canvas. First, the canvas is leveled, then one half is pressed down to prevent shifts, and the other is folded back. The base is lubricated with glue without excess, then the bent edge is placed in place and carefully rolled. After one half is glued, bend the remaining section so as to tear off a strip of the glued section 5-10 cm wide. Next, glue is applied to the base, then the second half is laid and rolled with a heavy roller.

If linoleum is subjected to hot or cold welding at the seams, the edges of the 10-15 cm sheet are glued not with water-soluble glue, but with a two-component (reactive) polymer. In this case, the gluing of the edges is not carried out together with the rest of the plane, because the overlap of the canvases still needs to be trimmed along the common line and a groove for the seam filler must be selected at the junction.

Rolling and trimming

Rolling the canvas during the gluing process is necessary to evenly disperse excess glue under the linoleum and get rid of air bubbles. After the canvas is fixed, it can be further pressed down by randomly rolling the coating in different directions. These actions can be performed within 1.5-2 hours after applying water-soluble glue and no later than 35-40 minutes after applying reaction glue.

When the entire area of linoleum to be treated has been laid and rolled, the floor is left for 20-30 hours until completely dry. This is followed by trimming and welding the seams, or installing joining thresholds. In places where it abuts the walls, the linoleum is pressed down with a block, then a flat thin strip or spatula is pressed into the corner and the covering is cut to the shape of the room using a sectioning knife. In order to efficiently trim corners and turns, the room is walked around the perimeter, periodically cutting off the interfering remnants of the cut tape.

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How to lay linoleum on a wooden floor: methods you might not know

Greetings, dear readers. This time I will talk about how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor. This information will certainly be useful to owners of old country houses or apartments in old houses where plank floors are still laid.

The topic is of considerable interest, since it is in rooms with wooden floors that renovations are most often planned in order to update the floor covering. In addition, it is in such rooms that replacing the flooring is considered the most problematic due to the textured base.

Difficulties in laying roll coverings on a plank base

Before laying linoleum on a wooden floor, let’s find out what difficulties are associated with laying the covering on plank bases:

Firstly, the boardwalk is embossed and this relief will appear through the coating over time;
Secondly, due to the difference in floor temperature and air temperature, moisture can accumulate under the linoleum, which will lead to mold;
Third, the boardwalk is unstable, since old boards sag, which negatively affects the strength and foundation;
Fourth, most wood flooring is painted with oil paints, but the glue does not cling to them, which means there will be no required adhesion with the coating.

So, the problem is clear, all that remains is to decide on its solution.

Methods for laying coverings on a plank base

Let's find out how to properly lay linoleum on a wooden floor? Firstly, you can level the base using a sanding machine, followed by filling in uneven areas with putty mixtures. This method is relevant for floors that are not too old, in which the boards do not sag or creak.

Secondly, you can lay certain board materials on top of the boardwalk, including plywood, oriented strand boards, wood fiber boards and other boards. This method is relevant for old foundations.

Thirdly, the boardwalk can be completely dismantled and a smooth, warm screed based on expanded clay concrete can be poured. This is an extreme option, which is only relevant if the rough wooden base is generally dilapidated.

Leveling boards with a sanding machine

I will say right away that this method is very labor-intensive, dusty and dirty. In addition, not everyone has a scraping or grinding machine. But, if the required tool is available, you can try.

The instructions for leveling the surface are as follows:

Using a hammer and punch, we press the nails about 2 mm below the surface of the boards;
Using a scraping machine, we make as many passes as necessary to level the boards to the same level;
We fill the gaps between the boards with elastic putties or silicone sealant.

In addition to the fact that leveling wooden surfaces with sanding is a labor-intensive and dusty job, there is a high probability that on a painted floor you will miss a couple of nails and not drown their heads.
Such an oversight will lead to fatal consequences for the machine’s knives, which will have to be sharpened again.

Leveling the floor with slab materials

This type of preparation of a plank base is the most popular due to the ease of doing it yourself.

When choosing slabs for leveling, the following parameters are taken into account:

height difference between the rough base and the door threshold;
degree of floor unevenness;
degree of thermal insulation of the subfloor;
budget allocated for repairs.

The most popular material for leveling the base is multi-layer moisture-resistant plywood.

Among the advantages of the material we note:

a wide range of standard sizes and, as a result, the ability to choose the optimal thickness;
resistance of the multilayer structure to mechanical loads;
perfectly flat surface in comparison with other slab materials;
high density of the structure, due to which screws are well held in the thickness of the slab;
acceptable price.

Leveling technology

Instructions for leveling with plywood boards depend on the levelness of the wooden base.

If the subfloor does not have significant differences in levels, you can lay plywood directly on the boards. In this case, the level of the base will rise by the thickness of the laid material. If the floor has significant differences in level, logs are pre-installed on which plywood is laid.

Let's say you examined the floor in a room and found out that it is not level enough. What do we do in this case?

The instructions for leveling the base are as follows:

We screw in self-tapping screws over the entire area of the base at a distance of 30 cm from each other, so that they are located above the floor at a height of 2 cm;
using a water level and a cord, tighten the screws so that they come to the same level;

using self-tapping screws (beacons) we install micro-lags (slats) no more than 2 cm thick;
We fix the logs with wood glue or liquid nails, placing plywood inserts under them to level the surface;
We lay a substrate no more than 2 mm thick on top of the logs;
cut plywood sheets into square pieces with a side of 1 m;

We fasten the pieces with self-tapping screws to pre-installed joists, pre-drilling the holes for the caps;
after the first layer of plywood is laid, we lay the second layer, and place the slabs offset relative to the slabs in the first layer;
after the floor is completely leveled, we pass along its surface with a grinding machine, removing differences at the junction of the plates;
We fill the recesses for the screws and the gaps between the plates with silicone sealant.

Similarly, you can level the floor using chipboard, OSB, fiberboard, etc. But in the case of using other board materials, the thickness of the leveling layer with the same coating strength will be greater.

Leveling the base with a warm screed

If the boardwalk is very old and has not been repaired for a long time, it will be easier not to restore it, but to completely remove it and fill it with expanded clay concrete screed.

Due to the high content of expanded clay, such screeds are much lighter than conventional concrete foundations, and therefore can be used both in country houses and in apartments on the same floor.

The proportions of expanded clay concrete are as follows:

1 part cement;
2 parts sand;
3 parts expanded clay.

The composition is made an order of magnitude thinner than ordinary concrete, which is due to the high absorbency of expanded clay. After expanded clay concrete has gained grade strength, the surface is leveled with a thin layer of cement-sand mixture.

Flooring installation

So, I talked about the most popular methods of leveling bases for laying roll (soft) coverings. All that remains is to find out how to lay linoleum on a wooden floor.

Let's look at each of the stages listed in the diagram in more detail.

If the base is ready, the installation instructions are not much different from the standard linoleum flooring technology. At the initial stage, the material is acclimatized. That is, the purchased roll is kept at room temperature for several hours.

After this, the canvas is unrolled and laid with the finishing side up for a day for leveling. This is a mandatory step, which allows you to prevent the appearance of waves when gluing; in addition, leveled linoleum is much easier to cut.

The cutting of the material is carried out taking into account the configuration of the room and taking into account the color of the canvas:

If linoleum imitates the surface of parquet, we place it so that the direction of the boards goes in the direction of the light from the window, then the floor covering will look much more advantageous. Again, take into account the location of the thresholds and do not forget to leave 5-10 cm of overlap on each wall. These excesses can be removed after gluing;
After cutting, the material folds in waves and moves closer to the front door. Apply the glue starting from the wall furthest from the front door. We glue the covering, gradually moving towards the front door;

If you notice that the coating is uneven, it can be unrolled and corrected within 5 minutes after installation and this will not affect the quality of installation.

We carefully glue the linoleum near the walls and in the corners. After the coating is glued, but the glue has not yet dried, we level the coating with a rubber roller or a damp mop. As a result, there should be no wrinkles or blisters on the floor surface;
After the covering is glued, use a sharp mounting knife to cut the linoleum around the perimeter of the walls. The final stage of installation work is to press the coating around the perimeter.

Selection of materials for installation

The table lists glue modifications that will ensure optimal adhesion of PVC linoleum and plywood.

Conclusion

So, is it possible to lay linoleum on a wooden floor? Of course, you can, but you need to do it correctly. To make the task easier, watch the video in this article.

Do you know other more effective ways to lay linoleum? Write about them in the comments to the article, it will be interesting.