DIY metal stove for a bath: drawing, assembly, installation. Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: drawings, photos, videos Do-it-yourself iron stove for a sauna

Ergonomic metal stoves are an excellent alternative to bulky brick heaters, which are suitable for heating a private bath.

The devices are characterized by fast heating, high thermal conductivity, ease of installation, minimal maintenance and durability. And if desired, a simple metal stove that would fully meet all the owner’s needs can be constructed independently from available materials.

Basic requirements for metal furnaces

Modern designs of metal sauna stoves are subject to high technical and operational requirements, which include the following:

Wide functionality. Possibility to select different temperature modes to quickly heat the air and maintain an optimal microclimate in the premises.
High efficiency. Efficient use of fuel material with the possibility of long-term heat accumulation. At the same time, increasing the volume of the firebox ensures complete combustion of fuel and increases efficiency.
Ergonomics. Iron heaters should remain compact to occupy a small area of the room. In small steam rooms, it is more rational to install a vertical type of structure with a firebox located in the technical room.
Fire safety. Heating equipment must be safe for visitors and the premises. To avoid burns and injuries, the body of the device is covered with a metal convection casing, and the surfaces near the oven are lined with heat-resistant material.
Equipment . More advanced models of devices can be equipped with water heaters that provide hot water supply in the bathhouse.
Aesthetics. Metal heaters can have various designs with forged and glass decorative elements.

Advantages and disadvantages of metal structures

We can highlight the main positive characteristics that a metal sauna stove is endowed with:

Rapid heating of the body - you can begin basic procedures within 2-3 hours after the oven starts heating up.
Ergonomic body - compact dimensions allow you to install the stove even in small rooms.
Lack of foundation - the equipment does not require the construction of a solid foundation; it is enough to limit yourself to a lightweight foundation.
Maintaining a constant combustion process - the design allows you to maintain optimal temperature conditions throughout the entire duration of health procedures.
Generation of soft and clean steam and heat accumulation indoors.
Affordable cost of materials for self-production of the structure.
Long service life of the finished device, which can range from 6 to 26 years.
Reliable operation if the basic fire safety requirements were met during the assembly and installation of the structure.

Along with the positive aspects, a metal sauna stove has significant disadvantages:

Rapid cooling of the metal after completion of the combustion process.
Not suitable for heating large areas.
It is necessary to ensure fire protection of the structure and adjacent surfaces.

Selecting a finished metal stove

To choose the right stove for a metal sauna, it is recommended to take into account a number of important parameters, such as:

Operating temperature range.
Room heating speed.
General dimensions of the equipment and volume of the combustion chamber.
Material for making the case.
Type of arrangement of structural elements.
Type of fuel used.
Features of operation and maintenance.

The modern market is represented by metal heating stoves for baths of the following sizes:

Mini-devices for heating rooms with an area of 10 to 12 square meters. m.
Standard stoves for rooms ranging from 12 to 25 square meters. m.
Large units for heating air in rooms with an area of 25 square meters. m.

Many stove models are equipped with a water heater installed on the rear panel of the structure.

Heat-resistant and durable materials are used as decorative finishing for the metal body - ceramic tiles, bricks, tiles and stone.

Having studied all the operational parameters of sauna stoves, you can easily select the appropriate device model, taking into account the design features of the structure, technical requirements for heating equipment and the financial capabilities of the owner.

Types of metal sauna stoves

In accordance with the design features, the following types of metal furnaces are distinguished:

Closed type. The units are compact in size and light weight, designed for small family baths. To increase heat output, the metal body of the stove is lined with heat-resistant bricks on the inside and outside. Iron staples are used to secure the bricks. The middle part of the structure is equipped with a grate for stones.
Open type. The devices are represented by large structures equipped with an open heater and a water heating tank. They are able to provide rapid heating of rooms in a short period of time. To increase the thermal capacity, such stoves are equipped with a galvanized protective plate for the heater.
Combined type. Such stoves are equipped with a firebox with sliding mechanisms, a heater, a blower and pipes (diameter from 11 to 14 cm). For the manufacture of structures, sheet steel up to 5 mm thick is used.

Types of fuel material

Universal heating equipment for a bathhouse can operate on various types of fuel material. The following categories of furnaces are distinguished:

Wood-burning. The most practical and reliable devices. They are easy to operate and maintain, operate on available types of fuel - firewood, pellets, sawdust. Stoves help to quickly heat rooms, but at the same time they require a large amount of fuel for each load and the installation of chimneys to remove combustion products.
. More reliable and durable heating units equipped with a thermostat and built-in protection that is triggered in the event of an emergency. Heating stoves are quite economical and can operate on natural gas and liquefied gas mixtures.
. Another type of sauna stove, which consists of an iron body, inside of which there is a heating element and a built-in thermal protection system. Additionally, they can be equipped with a touch panel for selecting temperature modes and a remote control. They require a constant power supply, so for uninterrupted operation it is recommended to additionally install an autonomous generator.
Combined. Such units can operate on alternative types of fuel - fuel oil, diesel fuel, distilled composition. They are safe, reliable and economical. Many device models are equipped with a special switch for selecting the desired type of fuel.

Do-it-yourself iron sauna stove assembly technology

In a small-sized bathhouse, you can use a homemade version of an iron heater, the dimensions of which would fully correspond to the heated area. As an example, the technology for assembling a heater with a diameter of 70 cm and a height of 150 cm is considered. Such a heating device is characterized by ease of manufacture, ease of operation, and requires a small amount of fuel material to quickly warm up the bath.

Furnace materials

For self-assembly of the stove, ferrous metal is suitable, the thickness of which is 0.5 cm. The service life of such material is from 6 to 10 years. To make a firebox, you can use a centimeter sheet of iron.

For work you need to prepare the following materials:

Sheet metal 1 cm thick.
A metal pipe with a wall thickness of 1 cm and a length of 160 cm.
A chimney pipe with a wall thickness of 0.5 cm and a diameter of 10 cm.
Metal rod 1 cm thick.
Grate for the grate.
Door hinges.
Door latches.
Water tap with shut-off valve.

Tools

To work with a metal structure, you will need the appropriate set of tools:

Equipment for hot welding.
Hacksaw for metal.
Bulgarian.
Roulette.

You will also need personal protective equipment when carrying out welding work:

Mask.
Uniforms and shoes.
Gloves made of dielectric material.
Glasses.

Step-by-step instructions for assembling a sauna stove

To independently make a compact metal stove for a private bath, you must follow the following sequence of actions:

The pipe is cut into two parts - 70 and 90 cm.
The blower chamber should be located at the bottom of the pipe for easy cleaning of ash. A hole measuring 22x6 cm is made in the pipe. The metal piece can be used to make a door for the ash chamber. Another hole is made above for adding fuel.
Door hinges and latches are welded on the outside of the pipe, and the latches themselves are mounted on the doors. Next, doors for the blower chamber and loading compartment are installed.
A circle with a diameter of 70 cm and a corresponding hole in the center for the grate are cut out of metal. The workpiece is welded inside the furnace structure above the ash chamber.
On the back side of the pipe, a hole is prepared for watering the heater and a protective door is installed.
A lattice for laying out stones is made from reinforcement. The dimensions of the grate should be determined taking into account the size of the stones that will be used for the stove.
Another round blank with a diameter of 70 cm is cut out of metal, a hole is made in it for the chimney pipe so that it is offset to the rear wall of the stove. Next, the chimney and the circle underneath it are welded on top of the structure.
A water tank is made from a smaller piece of pipe, which is welded to the stove. A hole is made in the container to fix the tap by welding.
Another round piece of metal is prepared and cut into two parts - large and smaller. A hole is made in the larger element for the chimney pipe. After this, it is placed on top of the chimney and welded around the hole.
A smaller semi-circular element is used as a lid for the water tank. Fixation to the pipe using door hinges.

Important! The size of a homemade metal stove for a bath depends on the total volume of the steam room. Such a unit can provide heating for a room with a volume of up to 25 cubic meters. m.

Features of stove installation according to fire safety rules

In order for an iron sauna stove to work properly for many years, you must follow the basic installation rules:

Heating equipment is installed on a pre-prepared platform with a diameter of 70 cm and a height of 18 cm. Additionally, a 30-centimeter foundation base made of heat-resistant bricks is installed. The distance from the stove body to the wall should be 100 cm. It is recommended to insulate the walls with heat-reflecting foil to prevent the surfaces from catching fire.
The minimum distance from the top of the device body to the ceiling surface is 120 cm, and from the firebox door to the opposite wall - 135 cm.
The chimney pipe is also insulated. For this purpose, installation of an internal and external protective casing with a layer of heat-insulating material is provided.
When the chimney pipe is routed through the roof, at the junction with the ceiling, a protective galvanized steel box filled with basalt insulation is installed.
The doors to the combustion chamber should be directed towards the entrance door, and the heaters should be directed towards the near corner.
The shelves in the steam room are fixed along the wall opposite the one where the heating equipment is installed. The best option is a multi-tiered design.
Lamps in the steam room are mounted above the front door or along the perimeter of the room, with the exception of the wall behind the stove. To avoid possible short circuits, it is not recommended to install lighting equipment on the ceiling.
If a metal sauna stove is used in a wooden building, the body will need to be lined with heat-resistant brick. The optimal height of the structure is 125 cm, and the length is 85 cm.
A test run of the equipment is carried out before the start of operation of the steam room to identify possible design defects or errors in its installation.

There are currently many metal sauna stoves on the market, but they are all expensive. If you have good experience in metal welding, then you can make an iron stove for a bathhouse with your own hands. In this article we will describe in detail, attaching relevant photos, how to do this, having your own dimensions and drawings.

Differences between metal stoves for baths and saunas

Steam rooms in a bathhouse and a sauna differ significantly from each other. The sauna is accompanied by high temperatures - over 85 ºС. Such indicators make it impossible to greatly increase the humidity, since skin burns are inevitable. At the same time, the broom crumbles in such conditions in just 5 minutes. Therefore, the humidity is adjusted to 5-15%. The Russian bath has a temperature in the region of 55-65 ºС, which makes it possible to raise the relative humidity to 50-60%.

To create certain conditions in the steam room, different stoves are used, and different approaches to their installation are also used. If you are setting up a sauna, you will need to maintain the maximum area of contact between the stove body and the air and ensure rapid circulation of air flows along the walls. Quite often, a camp sauna with a stove is made independently.

It all comes down to heating the air in the steam room as quickly as possible. A small open heater, located above the firebox, can heat the stones to 200-250 ºС. It makes it possible to get a little steam - as a rule, this is enough for a sauna, because you only need to achieve 15% humidity.

In a Russian bath, a different microclimate is created - low temperatures are reached and a lot of steam is produced. Moreover, it should consist of very small droplets heated to 130-150 ºС - such steam is called “dry”. Such a microclimate gives the body lightness and strength. “Dry” steam can only be obtained by heating stones to values of more than 500 ºС. To achieve such indicators, stones are placed in a firebox, that is, in a closed heater. Sauna stoves with a closed heater are quite effective.

Do-it-yourself stoves for Russian baths

The most important thing when making metal sauna stoves according to drawings with your own hands is to take into account that it is impossible to maintain the desired temperature within 60-65 ºC with heated metal walls (read: " "). You will definitely have to reheat it, which is accompanied by the emission of strong IR waves, which makes it quite difficult to be near the stove.

There are two ways to solve this problem:

Lining the firebox. The process involves lining the inside of the firebox with refractory bricks. It is enough to lay it on edge, and the thickness of the lining will be 6 cm, although narrow fireclay, 3 cm thick, is also found. Be that as it may, the heating of the steel walls is insignificant; the heater warms up the most. To get the best stove for a Russian bath, you should immediately design the firebox so that it is of increased size, because most of its volume is allocated to the lining. The disadvantage of this method is that it produces hot smoke, which reduces fire safety. It is best to cool it by installing a tank or heater on the pipe. It is a little more difficult to install a heating shield, passing through which the smoke cools down to 80-120 ºС.
Install a brick screen around an iron stove for a bath. It is assembled from ceramic bricks, while windows are left in the wall for mounting doors, which will allow you to control the level of air heating in the future. We can conclude that this option is the best due to the ability to regulate the temperature, but it is less practical, since the back wall overheats very much, so it is necessary to include heat-resistant steel in the design. In this case, it turns out that for a longer service life of an iron sauna stove, you need to choose a fairly thick metal. As practice shows, it is better to install it in the upper and lower parts of the firebox.

The seams are worth mentioning separately. A homemade iron stove for a bathhouse quite often begins to burn out precisely because of poor-quality seams. In production conditions, this problem is solved using a bent structure. They try to minimize the number of seams on top of the stove.

When making a metal stove for a bathhouse with your own hands, it will be almost impossible for you to bend 6-10 mm steel, so, as a rule, all that remains is to make extremely high-quality seams.

What size is the heater and in what place is it better to place it?

The required volume of stones is determined by the size of the steam room and the quality of insulation. The value, as a rule, varies from 20 to 40 kg per 1 cubic meter of room. Naturally, the more there are, the easier it is to produce the required volume of steam.

Due to the fact that different stones differ in density, with the same mass they will occupy different volumes. It has been determined that for a steam room with a volume of 12-14 m 3, it will be necessary to install a heater 30x40x30 cm. These dimensions can be slightly adjusted in different situations.

When making a sauna stove from metal with your own hands, you will need to select the individual volume of the heater based on the size of the stove. To avoid mistakes, it is better to start from ready-made drawings. When using an experimental approach, it is worth considering that the volume of the firebox should exceed that of the heater by approximately 30-50%.

Before building a stove in a bathhouse, it is worth calculating the best location of the heater in the firebox. From practice it became clear that it is best to place it on top, near the back wall, where the temperature is highest.

It is worth remembering that the heater will need to be maintained, and it should be equipped so that water can be supplied there. The hatch is best positioned so that you can easily reach the farthest edge with your hand, and so that water can be supplied without the possibility of getting burned.

As a rule, tubes are added to the heater, placed inside the container, which would reach all the stones. On the water supply side, the tube is equipped with a funnel. After the tubes are separated, they are lined with stones. After water is supplied through the tubes, it hits the stones in the heater and turns into steam.

Drawings of homemade steel stoves for a bath

Let's consider a stove option that will be relevant for a steam room with a volume of 2x3x2.3 m. For its construction, 3 mm thick steel sheets are used.

To start the combustion process, the design provides an additional air duct, which originates from the street. To prevent the steel from bending during heating, stiffening ribs in the form of corners are laid at the top of the firebox to the sides.

Let's consider another scheme according to which you can make metal sauna stoves with your own hands. These are models with air intake from the top of the firebox. They are also called gas afterburning furnaces. A steel plate is welded to it on the back wall. Air enters the furnace from under the grate and is supplied through air ducts going into the gap between this plate and the rear wall of the firebox.

This interesting design copes with two tasks at the same time: it cools the back wall, preventing it from burning out, and also supplies already heated air to the upper part, where very hot gases in the form of smoke are concentrated. 80% of their volume is flammable. If necessary, you will need to find out why the stove in the bathhouse smokes and how to fix it.

After mixing with air, they ignite, which leads to an increase in the temperature in the firebox and heating of the stones to higher levels. If you use dry firewood as fuel, you will need much less of it. Many long-burning stoves have been built on this principle of operation, but it has only recently begun to be used for sauna stoves. There is also a similar model without afterburning. By studying its drawing, you can better understand the proportions and placement of different elements.

This design involves building a firebox with a volume 30% larger than a heater. The ratio can be considered acceptable. The chimney is located offset back, which sometimes causes difficulties during its installation - the ceiling beam may interfere with it. In this case, it may be necessary to bend the chimney, which is not recommended.

In addition, before making a stove for a bath, you should decide whether a tank for heating water is needed in the steam room. Some people adjust the humidity level by opening and closing the tank lid. Other experts claim that heavy steam is generated in this way, so they advise installing the tank in the washing room, and heating the water using a heat exchanger built into the firebox, connected by pipes to the tank.

Now let's look at the diagram of a metal stove with a water tank. The design is considered to be quite well designed. Thanks to the spark arrester, the smoke travels a slightly longer distance, thereby better heating the walls of the firebox. Instead of a tank, of course, you can lay stones.

It is worth considering the option of installing a tank behind the stove. The chimney is moved back, passing through the tank. Due to the large height of the tank, there will be effective heat transfer, therefore, the chimney will not overheat when leaving it.

The heater has a design that assumes its small size, which is quite sufficient for small steam rooms. It has a lid, but due to its location, it can be difficult to close after water is supplied. But this design is easier to maintain.

Making a sauna stove

The main task of furnaces is to bring the temperature to the desired level as quickly as possible and maintain it at this level. To speed up this process, fans are used, which, by blowing on the walls, speed up the heating.

The convector casing is also designed for these purposes. The gap between it and the wall of the firebox should be 1.5-2 cm. Through the gap, air is sucked in, which warms up during movement, while the walls cool down.

To make a stove for a bathhouse with your own hands as high quality and practical as possible, its body is made of thick metal and the casing is made of thin metal, because it is not subject to overheating.

When placing the heater above the firebox, holes can be made in the body for ventilation. In this case, a portion of the air rising along the walls will be directed into the heater, blowing the stones and increasing their temperature. This ventilated heater is perfect for saunas.

Schemes and drawings of furnaces

Sauna stoves have a slightly simplified design. The dimensions of the metal sauna stove, and the firebox itself, should be sufficient to accommodate large logs. The sides of the heater are welded on top of the firebox, the volume of which, as a rule, is from 20 to 25 liters. The ratio in size may vary; there are no specific rules for this.

To make a metal stove for a bathhouse as correctly as possible, you should not install a tank for heating water. Otherwise, you will not be able to control the humidity level in the sauna, which can lead to burns in extreme temperatures.

There is another option - install the heater inside the firebox. A lid can be provided, and such a stove can have two operating modes: with the lid open - to keep the steaming process dry, and with the lid closed - to produce a larger volume of steam.

Due to their specific nature, the designs of bathhouse stoves have significant differences in design from the designs of classic stoves that are used to heat residential buildings. Sauna stoves are called heaters, since the design of a sauna stove involves the arrangement of a special pocket filled with a pile of stones. The sauna stove has a high heat capacity and heats the room of the sauna complex in a relatively short time.

There are several types of sauna stove designs that the owner can make with his own hands if he has the necessary skills and experience. The most common types of do-it-yourself sauna stove designs are the following:

Grate furnace. This type has a special compartment in its design - a blower. The presence of this structural element allows you to create a high-temperature flame inside the firebox. This system makes it possible to warm up the air space of the steam compartment in the shortest possible time. This stove is ideal when using wood as fuel.
Grateless firebox. This type of stove has a simpler design, is economical and easy to maintain, uses fuel sparingly, but such stoves are very demanding on the quality of the fuel used.

To create stove designs for a complex of bathhouse premises, materials such as refractory brick and metal can be used. When using baked bricks to create a stove design, you will need to hire an experienced specialist - a stove maker.

A metal stove is easier to manufacture and, in addition to the fact that such a stove can be purchased in a specialized store, it can also be made by the owner of the bathhouse complex with his own hands, if desired and has the appropriate experience.

Stoves for a sauna complex made of baked bricks

Since ancient times, most often in equipping the Russian bath complex, stoves made of building materials such as baked clay bricks have been used. In the process of making such a stove, clay mortar is used for its laying. At the moment, such stoves are one of the most popular designs, since the use of a brick sauna stove makes it possible to ensure that excellent dry steam is generated in the room.

When developing a brick stove design for a bathhouse, the time-tested classic type of red heat-resistant brick made of baked clay, which has an increased strength index, is used as a building material.

A special clay-sand mortar, prepared in a certain ratio, is used as a binding material; in addition, in the process of creating the furnace design, it is necessary to take into account some features and nuances, especially with regard to the process of preparing the mortar:

To prepare the solution, red clay should be used; it is first soaked for several days, after which the soaked clay is kneaded until it acquires the consistency of homogeneous jelly.
The proportions when preparing a mortar for masonry from clay jelly with sand should be 1:2 or 1:3. Further preparation of the solution consists of adjusting the mass to the required state.

The criteria for the readiness of the mortar for furnace laying work are determined by the behavior of the mortar. The adhesion of the solution to the working tool indicates a high fat content of the composition. In this case, sand and water are added to the solution. If the mortar begins to tear and spreads heavily onto the surface of the brick, then clay jelly should be added to the composition.

The most common models of stoves mounted from brick are a stove with a sink made of cast iron and a model of a bath stove, which in its design has an upper location of a combined type water tank.

To build a stove with a cast iron sink, you will need to prepare the following materials and components:

red burnt brick in the amount of 220 pcs.;
sink made of cast iron – 1 pc.;
metal doors are required, one for cleaning and the other with holes;
metal valve for adjusting draft, having a size of 13x13 cm;
metal corner 40 mm and metal thickness 4 mm;
water container measuring 250x350x270 mm.

The work is carried out in a certain order and in compliance with all technological standards and requirements.

The first 2 rows of bricks are laid with continuous masonry. During the laying out of the third row, a door for the combustion chamber is installed. The door should be one that has holes in its body. Simultaneously with the installation of the firebox door, when laying out the third row, a chimney cleaning door is installed. At this stage, the laying of the pass wall begins.

During the laying out of the fourth row, the water heating box is installed. When laying bricks included in the fifth row, the cleaning door is closed. During the installation of the sixth row, a combustion chamber with a chimney is formed and the combustion door is closed. When forming a saddle wall, it is necessary to trim off the top brick.

In the process of laying out the seventh, eighth and ninth rows, the water-heating box is overlapped and the base for the sink is formed. On the ninth row, it is necessary to trim the corners of the brick for a tighter fit of the sink.

When installing the tenth row, a steel corner and a sink are installed. The next 20 rows are used to install the chimney, and the valve is installed on the 30th row.

For a heater with a top-mounted water tank, you will need to prepare:

brick – 190 pcs.;
grate 300x200 mm;
cast iron plate 470x380 mm;
flap;
2 doors – large for the furnace and small for the blower;
steel plates;
container for water.

The design of the furnace consists of 21 rows of bricks, from the 21st row the formation of the exhaust pipe begins. The door for the blower is installed on the second row, the grate on the fourth. The firebox door is placed on the fifth row. The fire chamber is formed during the installation of the sixth and seventh rows of masonry. From rows 10 to 13, a thermal chamber for the stone is formed. The valve is installed on row 20.

Design diagrams of metal bath stoves

When installing a stove for a metal bath, the design diagram must be correctly calculated, since not only the quality of heating of the premises, but also the safety of operation of the stove for a metal bath depends on the correct design diagram.

Most often, when installing a stove for a bathhouse using metal, the units can be manufactured in two versions:

vertical;
horizontal.

Horizontal metal furnace units are made using a barrel, and a piece of pipe of the appropriate diameter is used in the design of a vertical unit.

For heating a small bathhouse, it is optimal to use a closed metal stove. Such a device can be constructed quite easily at home if you have the necessary skills in working with metal. This type of design is very compact. But such a stove has a significant drawback: it has a low heat capacity; this design flaw can be eliminated by lining it with brick.

The open type of stove can be used for larger sauna complexes.

This design of a sauna stove differs from a closed one in that the first heater has a stove.

To install a metal furnace, you will need to prepare the required materials and tools before carrying out the work:

metal pipe or barrel;
metal plates with a thickness of at least 10 mm;
canopies for fastening doors;
pipe for installing a chimney;
refractory brick for facing work;
water heating tank;
stones for filling the heater;
welder;
metal scissors;
hammer;
pliers.

Before installation, a detailed design diagram is drawn up indicating the dimensions of all structural elements.

When arranging a bath complex, special attention should be paid to the location and installation of the unit for heating bath rooms. The installation scheme of any stove design in a bathhouse requires the preparation of a separate foundation for it. In the process of choosing a location for placing a heating unit, you should choose it taking into account the fact that during the operation of the stove, not only the steam room of the bath complex, but also the rest of the premises should be heated by its heat. In addition, the stove in use must provide the owner of the bath complex with maximum safety.

There are two possible installation schemes for a sauna stove:

Installation of the stove completely in the steam room.
Installation of a stove structure with the removal of the combustion door to another room adjacent to the steam room.

Both of these schemes have their disadvantages and advantages.

When installing a stove in a steam room without removing the combustion door, it is possible to quickly control the intensity of fuel combustion, but the disadvantage of this scheme is that with a small steam room area it is difficult to find a place to place firewood. In addition, intense oxygen burning occurs in the steam room, which is also a big disadvantage.

A bathhouse cannot exist without a stove. It heats the room and maintains the optimal temperature. There are a large number of stoves on sale in a variety of models that meet all the requirements. However, the most popular are considered to be do-it-yourself drawings of metal sauna stoves, from which it is quite easy to make a device that is ideally suited to specific conditions.

Pros and cons of metal sauna stoves

A do-it-yourself metal sauna stove is becoming increasingly popular, gradually displacing traditional brick products. Iron heating bath devices are widely used in our country. Their advantages include:

The disadvantages of iron stoves include:

It cools too quickly, so it has to be heated all the time.
The walls of the metal stove become very hot, and nearby objects can catch fire.
Due to its small size, it is not suitable for use in large baths.

DIY sauna stove design

Factory-made sauna stoves are very different from each other in their design, not to mention home-made stoves. They can be of any shape and made of various materials, for example, steel sheets, barrels, pipes. A sauna stove can be made with your own hands in this way: in one room there is a firebox, and in another there is a stove.

Basically metal structures consist of fireboxes, heaters and water tanks.

The combustion process takes place in the firebox, so a door is made through which firewood will be loaded, and air hole- blower. The ash is removed through a special grate - an ash pan.

From the firebox, hot air enters the heater, which is filled with stones. To ensure optimal heat transfer, the stones are placed on a grate connecting the firebox and the heater. For spraying stones with water, on the side of the stove make a special door. The hot air then rises to the water tank. Water is poured into the tank through the top, and a tap is welded at the bottom of the tank to drain it.

What are metal sauna stoves made of?

Required materials and parts:

Steel sheet having a thickness of 8 mm.
Metal pipe 5–10 mm thick.
Square 10x10 mm.
Doors for the firebox, vent and heater.
Chimney.
Grate.
Tap water.

Required working tools:

Bulgarian;
metal scissors;
welding machine;
measuring tool.

Making a metal sauna stove firebox

Many do-it-yourself drawings of metal sauna stoves involve the use of ready-made elements. These can be grilles and doors. These elements are chosen because cast iron products are fixed differently.

To make a firebox, metal pipe required about 2 meters long, the walls of which should have a thickness of 5–10 mm. It is divided into two sections: for the firebox and heater (0.9 m) and for the tank (0.6 m). The remainder will be needed to make a ash pan and doors for the firebox.

A hole is made in the pipe for the blower, 0.2 m wide and 0.5 m high. Then a metal plate should be welded above it, onto which lay the grate. It's better to buy it in a store.

Making a heater

The furnace door should have dimensions of 20x25 cm. Rods are welded above it for the heater. Since the heater weighs a lot, the welded rods or square must have a size of at least 10 mm. In this case, the heater door should open into the steam room, and the firebox should be located opposite the entrance.

After this, heat the heater almost to the top filled with special stones. It can be diabase or soapstone. Stones containing mica are prohibited. It contributes to the release of carbon monoxide, which is life-threatening.

It is also not advisable to put granite in the heater because of its large crystals, which begin to crumble under the influence of high temperatures. It is best to use stones with small, small crystals.

Metal should be welded above the heater chimney cover. After this, a water tank is installed, although in many baths it is not required.

Making a tank for heating water

DIY drawings of metal stoves stipulate that the location of the water tank will be above the heater. A plate 8 mm thick is welded above it, in which a hole with a diameter of 150 mm is made for the chimney. Then the chimney pipe and the pipe blank for the tank are welded to the plate. The hole for the pipe is made next to the rear wall of the structure.

Part of the tank on the chimney side is covered with a semicircle made of steel sheet, in which hole for chimney pipe, which is welded to it. The other part of the tank will fill with water. A special lid with a handle is made for it.

Chimney

When creating drawings of an iron stove for a bath with your own hands, special attention is paid to the chimney, and specifically, to the places where it passes through the roof. This is necessary because during combustion the pipe heats up very strongly, and to prevent it from catching fire, it should be isolated. To ensure normal traction, it is placed at a certain height.

Installing a stove in a bathhouse

To install a metal stove in a bathhouse with your own hands, you must adhere to the following recommendations:

It should be installed at a distance of 1 m from the walls.
Place it next to the chimney.
The structure should be installed on a foundation made of fire-resistant materials.
The wall near which the stove is installed is covered with foil and insulation.

After installing the metal stove, it can be cover with bricks, which will not only give it a beautiful appearance, but also protect it from accidental burns.

A very important detail. If you have made a metal stove in your bathhouse with your own hands, don’t forget that there should always be a floor under the ash pit. made of tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.

Thus, having a drawing in hand and possessing metal carving skills and experience in handling welding, you can easily make a sauna stove with your own hands. It will work even better than a store-bought one.

A lot of do-it-yourself sauna stove designs made of metal have already been made and invented, but the topic has not been fully explored and is still relevant. You can make metal sauna stoves with your own hands from available metal materials; you just need desire and a little time.

After looking through this article and following the technology, as well as adding imagination, you can come up with something yourself. As a result, you will not only have a great time in the sauna, but also surprise your neighbors and friends with unique solutions. We'll tell you about some in more detail. We will figure out how a metal furnace can be made, what its dimensions and structure should be, and we will also tell you how to prepare the base (foundation) to install the assembled structure.

Stove with stone grate and water heating

If you are going to build a metal sauna stove with your own hands, then you first need to draw up a project, determine the dimensions of the unit, and also prepare everything necessary.

Tool

Welding machine.
Electrodes with a diameter of 3-4.
Bulgarian.

Material metal

If you are making a homemade sauna stove from a pipe, you will need:

Wheels - 4 pcs.
Pipe with a diameter of 100-150 mm.
Sheet iron 2-3 mm thick.
Iron fittings with a diameter of 8-10 mm or rod.

Construction material

Brick - 300-350 pcs.
Cement - 2-3 bags of 50 kg.
Crushed stone, sand - 0.1 cubic meters.

Please note: draft is created by discharge, i.e. discharged cold air draws out warm air. Warm air, in turn, tends upward under the influence of Archimedes' force. The draft depends on the weather: in summer the air is warm and humid - the draft is naturally less, in winter the opposite is true. The draft also depends on the diameter of the pipe.

If the pipe is thin, then gases and warm air will be slowed down by friction against the walls of the pipe and will not have time to leave the chimney. As a result, it is created smoke plug and the smoke follows the path of least resistance, i.e. into the room.

Therefore, when making a metal sauna stove with your own hands, always follow the principles of pressure, drafts, correctly choosing the dimensions of the chimney and firebox. If the pipe is wide- smoke and gases will slowly rise up, the draft will be poor and the pipe will be very clogged, it will have to be cleaned very often. Since everything will settle on the walls of the pipe, the normal speed when exiting the pipe is 5-8 m/s.

For the first time, the Romans began to use chimneys (3-8 centuries BC) - the famous roman baths.

Furnace construction work

So, let's start building a metal sauna stove with our own hands. First of all, you need to prepare the foundation, that is, the base on which you plan to install the structure. Despite the fact that an iron stove for a bathhouse made from a pipe weighs little, it is imperative to prepare a foundation for it. It is very important that the iron stove is installed on a level foundation.

We are building the foundation

To knock down the formwork, its dimensions are 1x1 m, height 20 cm.
We reinforce the future foundation in one layer, laying reinforcement along and across in squares 20x20 cm. We tie the reinforcement at the points of connection with each other with knitting wire. It should not lie on the ground; to do this, we drive it into the ground along the edges of the grate. 4 pieces of reinforcement and tie a lattice to them in weight. Before you start pouring the foundation, make sure the grate is in the middle.
After pouring, we maintain the foundation about 2 weeks, open all the doors and windows in the bathhouse for better ventilation and lay wet rags on the poured foundation. This is done so that cracks do not form when drying. We wet the rags for 2 weeks.

Preparing and assembling the oven

An iron stove is assembled like this:

Let's make a small digression here. If you already have a dressing room, then before installing a new stove, you will have to cut a square hole in the wall, because the stove will start from there - these are the doors of the vent and firebox, everything else is in the bathhouse.

If you didn’t have a dressing room, then we will build it together with. The corner in which the iron stove stands should be lined with a brick wall, this is done for the purpose of fire safety, because the inside of the bathhouse is always decorated with wood.

So, let's start making a stove; if you have no experience in stove making or have never laid a brick, then it is better to call a master who will build a stove for you according to all the rules. But if you want to try it yourself, which is not bad, then it’s time to try it, and I’ll tell you how to do it.

After laying the stove should dry for at least 2 weeks, if you flood it immediately, microcracks will appear, which will compromise the integrity of the stove. We open all the blowers and entrances and exits so that the oven dries out. You can heat it with small wood chips for a couple of hours. The stove is considered dry if there is no moisture and the walls were all dry. You can run the oven fully for maintenance, and the oven is ready for use.

Now let's look at the pipe; the figure shows the finished type of pipe that is placed on the stove we have folded.
In an iron stove, the heater is located directly on the body itself, in ours it is located on the pipe, and there is also a hot water tank there.

I note that the design itself will be quite heavy, so it can be divided into parts and assembled indoors. A do-it-yourself metal sauna stove of original design is ready. If there is already finishing inside, cover it from welding with roofing felt or sheets of iron.

Attention. Don’t forget, when welding indoors, for fire safety purposes you need to have a bucket of water and a spray bottle. A sprinkler can be made from an ordinary one and a half liter plastic bottle by punching a hole in the lid. After welding, spray the seam and scale.

Top of the chimney (see) reinforced with two reinforcements for rigidity, weld it to the pipe and attach it to one wall and to the other. To attach to the wall, we use a corner or plate welded to the reinforcement and drilled on both sides.
We drill the brick with a hammer drill with a drill with a diameter of 6 mm, 5-6 cm deep and attach it to anchors, so we have stiffness angle and stable design.

Full view: do-it-yourself metal stove for a bathhouse

Options for assembling a furnace of a different design

DIY metal stoves for saunas come in different shapes. Consider the oven, assembled from a pipe, its components and assembly diagram. At first glance, a pipe bath stove has the simplest possible design, but it has its own tricks and design technology. At the beginning of the article, I indicated the operating principle of the stove, draft and chimney. In all cases these principles must be used, otherwise the oven will not work.

If you independently implement the design and some original solutions so that you can create a metal sauna stove with your own hands, follow them, and you will succeed. Don’t forget that nothing is impossible for you and me, so we will dare, strive and surprise others by improving our skills. Then a do-it-yourself metal sauna stove or just a stove will not be an unread book for you. The oven in the photo above is a simple option, since the base is almost ready - a piece of pipe with a diameter of 525 mm and a length of 650 mm.

From below we cut a hole measuring 335 mm long and 180 mm wide, this will be our grate, weld rods or an iron strip, about 1 cm apart. Separately, we make a box from sheet iron 2-3 mm, in size:

600x140 mm, 2 pcs.
270x600 mm, 1 pc.
270x140 mm, 1 pc.

We weld the box and clean out the slag.

We weld the door to it and put the part aside for now. Let's work on the 525 pipe, we need to cut out the plugs and sidewalls on both sides.

Our pipe diameter is 525, divide by 2, we get 262.5 mm.
Using a compass, having measured 262.5, we draw 2 circles, although it could be simpler. Place our blank (525 pipe) on the sheet and simply trace it.

If you need to copy several parts, then you should always copy from the original, and not from their finished copies, since dimensional accuracy is lost. If you have marked a part and cut it out, it is better to take the measurement again and make another one than to copy from a finished one.

For now we will make the parts, but we will carry out the assembly in order. First, we will make the insides of the stove and assemble them inside the stove itself; we will layer and boil all the other parts one by one.

We cut two holes at the top. One is for the chimney, round, with a diameter of 110 mm, departing from the edge of the 525 pipe to the middle (of the chimney 110 pipe) 100 mm. The other is square, for the heater, stepping back from the edge of the 525 pipe 215 mm, cut the size along the 525 pipe 300 mm, across 250 mm. To maintain symmetry of the design, use a level(vertical, horizontal) or plumb line(vertical). For the cut hole, prepare a niche for the stones, cut out the parts from a 5 mm sheet of iron.

270x300 mm, 2 pcs.
270x250 mm, 2 pcs.
250x300 mm, 1 piece.

We weld all the parts, make a square box as shown, clean it of slag, coat the seams generously with kerosene and check for any leaks. We set the finished part of the furnace aside.

A plumb line can be made from any heavy load (bolt, nut, pebble, nail) and any rope, fishing line, thread. But the weight of the load must keep the ropes, fishing lines, and threads taut. Gravity will do the rest; a thread with a load hanging on it always shows the vertical in an ideal form, just as water shows the horizontal line.

Do-it-yourself metal sauna stove: drawings

Next step: cut out a 4-5 mm partition for the furnace shaft from a sheet of iron (separates the firebox from the chimney, thereby preventing the rapid leakage of heat into the chimney).

As shown in the figure, we measure 180 mm from the top and in fact, that is, what the size will be, we will only find out as we progress. Measurements can be made using a tape measure and level. We set the level, mark from the top 180 mm to the top of the level. For the record, I’ll tell you how to make do with improvised means, if there is no level, and mark the horizontal line. We take a transparent glass vessel, it can be a glass, a plastic bottle or any transparent, but fairly solid object with a base.

From the bottom we mark the same distance on the sides and put marks with a marker. We pour water according to the marks - and voila level ready. We place it on the surface we need: the water should be at the level with the marks, then we will have a horizon level.

We set the level itself, not forgetting about the size of 180 mm, it must be observed, press the level to the pipe so that it does not move around, and put marks inside along the edges, with a marker or chalk. We perform the same procedure on the other edge.
Taking a measurement from mark to mark.
Drawing a partition on a piece of metal and cut it out.
We take a niche for stones, insert it into the prepared hole, make a couple of potholders on the side and turn the pipe over (the niche for stones should be at the bottom).
We insert the partition according to the marks made, if everything fits, then we begin to scald the partition, if not, we make marks where exactly it does not fit or is in the way, pull out the partition, and trim it with a grinder. If there are gaps, it’s okay, it’s welded by electric welding.
We also scald the niche for the stones.

So, a DIY metal sauna stove is the next stage of assembly. We have plugs or sidewalls. On one we make markings for the firebox door, departing 50 mm from the bottom, and cut it to the size of the door, which we have prepared in advance with one clarification: we make a hole along all edges less by 1 cm. If our door size is 220x320 mm, then we cut a hole 210x310 mm. And we cut another hole for cleaning the chimney 70x130 mm.

If a do-it-yourself metal stove for a bathhouse does not have a direct exit from the firebox into the chimney, but with shafts, then you should always make holes for cleaning the chimneys if it is impossible to get there. If this is not done, then ash sediments and small particles of ash and soot will soon reduce access to the chimney and the stove will begin to smoke. You will have to either cut a window, or cut down and weld the pipe permanently.

First we install the side panel with the future door, scald the outside. Through the firebox window we weld the partition to the sidewall. We will install the firebox door at the last moment. Now we weld the other sidewall, which we have without holes, and clean everything with a grinder.
Place the chimney in the cut hole, grab it, take a level and measure the vertical on both sides, not parallel, but at an angle. So that the chimney is not blocked. We scald everything, put pressure on the chimney below.
Next stage: put the ash pan- blow from below, closing the grate, and scald it.
AND completion of assembly- We weld the doors to the firebox and to the hole for cleaning the chimney; the ash pan has a door. And weld the legs.

All that remains is to install the stove in its intended place. In this case, the installation is carried out so that the heater is located not in the stove, but outside, which makes heating the stones difficult. There will be stones take much longer to heat up than usual but the effect will still be there. It is better to use stones for the stove maritime, they heat up faster, retain heat longer, and when they contain salt and iodine, they have a beneficial effect on the body. A very important detail. If you have made an iron sauna stove with your own hands, then you need to install it so that the floor under the ash pit is made of tin or tiles, generally made of non-combustible material.