What is needed for heating a greenhouse. DIY heated greenhouses

A heated greenhouse allows you to have fresh herbs all year round. In addition, you can grow not only vegetables and flowers traditional for your latitude, but also heat-loving exotic plants, including pineapples and melons in Siberia or the Urals. It is quite possible to install greenhouse heating with your own hands. There are several ways to effectively heat a greenhouse. In this article we will focus on each of them so that you can choose the best option for yourself.

How does the material affect heat loss?

The choice of heating system should first of all be based on the area of the greenhouse and the material from which it is built. Each type has its own heat loss coefficient. Most often used for the construction of greenhouses:

glass - heat loss coefficient is 5.5 W/kW.m;
polyethylene film - K=12 W/kW.m;
polycarbonate - 2.8 W/kW.m.

As you can see, cellular polycarbonate, due to its cellular structure, has the lowest heat loss rates, and polyethylene film, on the contrary, has the highest. It is very important that the heating does not dry out the air in the greenhouse, and that the heat is distributed evenly over the entire area.

Optimal options

Among the huge variety of options for heating greenhouses at home, we will consider only those that you can build yourself, without the help of professionals. So, the most common methods of homemade heating of greenhouses:

Electric heating systems

They mainly use ultraviolet lamps, which allow heating the soil and, accordingly, the plants. The air does not heat up. It receives heat from the earth and therefore does not dry out. In such a climate, plants feel very comfortable.

The number of ultraviolet lamps for rooms is calculated according to a simplified scheme: for every 10 sq.m., 1 kW of heater power is required.

Since using electricity for heating is the most expensive way to heat up, this option cannot be considered economical. But if you plan to grow berries or flowers in home greenhouses all year round, then this option should be considered as optimal.

To optimize costs, it is necessary to install temperature regulators and sensors and thereby automate the heating. Additional lighting and an automated watering system may also be needed.

VIDEO: Do-it-yourself electric heating of a greenhouse

Gas heating of greenhouses

In terms of arrangement this is the most expensive project, but in terms of operation it is the cheapest. You can use both gas-fired boilers and gas cylinders. To use gas equipment, you need a special permit, and for its installation, the involvement of specialists is required.

In order to build gas heating for a greenhouse with your own hands, it is attached to the house and communications are pulled from there. In general, the process is not complicated, since you only need to build up the pipes and loop them in connection with the house. It is advisable to separately build a gas system for a greenhouse only if its premises exceed 100 sq.m and it is used for commercial purposes.

Solid fuel or exhaust stoves

Anyone can make stove heating in a greenhouse with their own hands. In fact, this is the most ordinary stove - a stationary stone or mobile metal one, through which the entire room is heated.

A huge variety of drawings are available with detailed step-by-step descriptions of how to build a greenhouse with your own hands with heating or how to equip a stove heating for an already finished greenhouse. You can install the stove yourself inside or in a separate vestibule, or purchase a wood-burning stove.

In addition, the market offers a huge selection of modern long-burning solid fuel boilers. They remove the biggest inconvenience of using a stove - frequent loading of firewood, coal, etc. Thus, anyone can make heating in a greenhouse on their own. The cost of solid fuel is several times cheaper than electricity.

Steam heating

Do-it-yourself steam heating of a greenhouse can be done in two ways: connect it to the heating system at home or make an independent system. This method can be considered an improved version of stove heating. It has a higher level of efficiency and safety, but at the same time, higher maintenance costs.

The most effective methods of heating home greenhouses have been listed above. Everyone chooses the option that suits them best. We suggest choosing the last method, which also has a lot of variations.

Steam heating

If you don’t know how to heat a greenhouse with steam, then you need to listen to the advice of experts. They advise connecting the greenhouse to the heating system of the house only when it is located at a maximum distance of 10 meters from the house. Otherwise, such a connection is not economically profitable and it is better to choose the option of installing a boiler or stove. By the way, the most ordinary potbelly stove will cope with the heating task 100%. It is easy to maintain, easy to clean and refill.

Steam heating schemes:

If an area near the house was selected for a greenhouse to connect to a common heating system, then two requirements must be met:

the boiler power should be enough to heat both the house and the greenhouse;
the pipeline running along the street should be reliably insulated.

Regardless of where the boiler will be installed, as well as what type it will be, homemade heating in a greenhouse is built according to the same scheme. In addition to the boiler, you will need to purchase the following equipment:

radiators;
pipes;
circulation pump;
security group;
expansion tank;
balancing valve;
coarse filter.

To ensure heat, it is very important to correctly determine the number of radiators. If the height of the greenhouse does not exceed 3 m, then you can use a simplified calculation algorithm: multiply the area of the greenhouse by 120, then divide by the thermal power of one radiator section according to the data sheet.

Algorithm for connecting steam heating

Let's consider a step-by-step algorithm for mounting equipment:

We install the boiler on a pre-prepared concrete foundation. If you have chosen a solid fuel boiler, then it is better to build a special vestibule for it - this way you will not open the greenhouse every time you load fuel.

We connect the boiler to the chimney. A more preferable option is a vertical sandwich chimney made of stainless steel, which is led outside through the roof or wall. Firstly, it is very easy to install. Secondly, it has a reliable design.
Radiators are connected with pipes. Optimal pipe diameter: 20-25 mm. Radiators must be selected at the lowest possible height. If, after replacing the heating system, you still have old radiators and pipes in your apartment or house, then use them. So, you will significantly reduce the cost of setting up a greenhouse. An air valve - a Mayevsky tap - should be installed on each radiator, as well as a valve that allows you to shut off the flow of water.
We connect the safety group immediately after leaving the boiler (the place of maximum temperature and pressure). It is a steel manifold on which a pressure gauge, an air vent and a safety valve are located. The collector is equipped with a coupling that is connected to the pipe.
We mount the expansion tank from below through the valve. It is installed in the area from the boiler outlet to the circulation pump.
We install a circulation pump to maintain stable pressure in the system. It is mounted on the return pipe in front of the boiler entrance. A coarse filter must be installed in front of it.

So, the system is assembled, you need to press it with air to identify possible installation defects. To do this, connect a special compressor. First, use a sponge to soap all joints. Then close the valves and taps. The compressor supplies the pressure specified in the technical data sheet of the boiler and radiators. Carefully inspect the joints - there should be no soap bubbles on them. If all is well, then you can fill the system with water to test turn on the boiler.

Heating alternative

Not everyone uses greenhouses for year-round cultivation of herbs, vegetables and fruits. For personal needs, planting begins mainly in mid-February and ends in October. In this case, it is irrational to install a separate heating system, as well as to use powerful electrical systems. As an alternative, you can offer warm beds or infrared floor heating.

Warm beds

It is a combination of certain materials that produce heat when they interact. To create warm beds, dig a ditch 70-80 cm deep, where the following components are laid:

large branches for aeration;
straw, hay, dry grass

It is better not to use cut tops from garden beds, as they may contain pathogenic flora - insect larvae, viruses, etc.

manure;
peat;
turf land.

All this is laid in layers and after 2 weeks you can start planting. Manure and straw begin to rot, releasing quite a large amount of heat. This is enough to warm up the root system, thereby creating comfortable conditions for the plant.

Infrared floors

This is a type of electric heating system, but compared to UV lamps, it is not as wasteful. Due to the large heat-transfer surface, heating occurs faster. Structurally, it is a thin film that is rolled out on a surface, fixed and launched. You can use IR floors directly to heat beds, or place them on walls or in row spaces.

VIDEO: How to make greenhouse heating with your own hands

Having your own plot of land makes you think about its rational use not only in summer, but also in winter. The most common option is to build greenhouses and even greenhouse complexes that can provide fresh fruits, vegetables and berries all year round. If you approach the issue of constructing a greenhouse competently and take into account even minor nuances of the operation of such a structure, you can grow a rich harvest of not only local crops, but also tropical ones.

The most popular and suitable for such purposes are greenhouses built from polycarbonate panels. A special condition for high-quality construction is the presence of heating. Having studied the issue of installing a heating system, it becomes clear that all the work can be easily done with your own hands. The main thing is that the effect of the completed heating system meets expectations, you need to think carefully in advance about what type of heating should be present in the greenhouse, clarify the features of its installation, and only then start working.

Types of greenhouse heating

There are many ways to make heating in a greenhouse with your own hands; let’s look at the most popular ones in more detail.

Solar heating

Heat from the sun's rays is a simple way to warm a room, which does not require any material costs. Sunlight, penetrating through the transparent coating of the greenhouse walls, heats not only the air inside the room, but also the soil. In the summer, the hot and bright sun provides enough energy to warm the air in the greenhouse. The main thing is to make the structure in a place protected from the wind, away from the shade of trees.

The disadvantage of this heating method is insufficient heat in winter, when daylight hours are shortened and the sun no longer provides such luminous intensity. To ensure the required level of heat in a greenhouse in winter, as a rule, slightly different heating methods are used.

Air heating

This method involves the operation of heating and ventilation devices. They can be purchased either factory-assembled or made with your own hands. To do this, a small steel pipe is installed as follows: one end is located indoors, the second is led outside through the chimney. This method has one minor drawback: in order for warm air to enter the greenhouse in winter, it is heated with fires, which is a very fire hazard.

Use of ovens

This method is the oldest for heating rooms. Various options for using fuel make it quite economical. The boiler is installed inside the greenhouse, and only the chimney is exposed to the outside. There is one rather significant drawback to using such a heating system - the risk of fire due to excessive heating of the boiler walls.

Heating with biological fuels

Waste from animals and birds (manure, bird droppings, mullein) rots and decomposes and releases heat. This can be used to heat the room.

Important ! It is worth noting that biological waste in the process of decomposition humidifies the air and creates a very favorable microclimate for the growth and development of plants.

Gas heating

The trend of constant growth in the cost of gas makes this method very expensive, and growing vegetables and fruits in such conditions is economically unprofitable. Gas can be supplied to the greenhouse from a centralized system, or you can use liquefied gas in cylinders. One of the undeniable advantages of gas heating is the ability to continuously supply heat to the greenhouse.

Use of electrical energy

The method is quite simple to use, but today it is losing its popularity due to rising electricity prices. However, a variety of heating devices operating from the network allows you to choose the best option for yourself.

One such device is a convector. It is a device equipped with a heating element in the form of a spiral. Warm air is evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse and mainly warms the air. Unfortunately, the heat from the convector is not enough to warm the soil.

A heater is a small fan that is equipped with an air heating function. Attracts with its inexpensive price and ease of use. The heater is not only capable of warming up the air, but also ensuring its circulation.

Cable as a heating element. The principle of using a cable to warm up the greenhouse is as follows: it is placed around the perimeter of the greenhouse and the location of the beds. When connected to the network, the cable blocks cold air from passing through the soil, thereby keeping warm air indoors.

Water heating. This method is quite difficult to install and costly. A system of pipes is installed through which heated water circulates. Thus, not only the surface of the pipes heats up, but also the air in the room. It is also worth noting that in order for a water heating system to function effectively, its installation should only be carried out by professionals.

How to choose a heating system

To choose and make heating in a greenhouse correctly, you need to approach the issue wisely and take into account the following factors:

greenhouse dimensions;
type of heating used in a residential building;
the amount of money that makes up the installation budget for the future heating system.

If a greenhouse already exists, then it is necessary to make a future heating system taking into account the already completed structure. Example: it is neither rational nor practical to make an expensive heating system in a small greenhouse.

Important ! Heat consumption must be rationally calculated and distributed over the entire area of the greenhouse.

Installation of water heating

In order to make heating using a water system quickly, and the result meets expectations, you should follow fairly simple instructions for its installation:

An old fire extinguisher, which has already served its intended purpose, can be used as a heater. For further use, the top of the fire extinguisher will need to be cut off.
Heating elements are installed at the bottom of the flask, the power of which should not exceed 1 kW. Electric heating elements taken from an old samovar are perfect for such purposes.
We make a cover for the heater body from any available means.
We connect two pipes from the radiator to the base of the heater. To do this, you need to use nuts and special rubber seals that will prevent water leaks.
In order for the assembled device to operate in automatic mode, it will be convenient to make a special relay with a voltage of 220 V. This mechanism allows you to block the operation of electric heaters when the water reaches the desired temperature.

Air heating installation

To make heating using an air system, you must use the following work algorithm:

We select a steel pipe, the length of which is about 25 meters, the diameter is 600mm.
One end of the pipe is taken outside the greenhouse, and the other is left inside the room.
On the outside, in the area located under the pipe, a fire is lit, the combustion of which must be constantly maintained. Due to the flame, the air in the pipe heats up and enters the greenhouse.

Attention ! This method is very simple to implement, the only thing is that it requires free time to maintain the strength of the flame in the fire.

Installation of electric heating

This heating system can be made based on the principle of “warm floor” functioning.

In this case, instead of the floor, the soil surface in the greenhouse protrudes. The electric cable or water heating pipes are located deep in the soil, on a previously prepared surface. To do this, remove the top layer of soil to a depth of about 30 cm. Heat-insulating material is placed at the bottom, sand is poured on top of it and heating elements are laid.

Advice ! To avoid accidentally damaging them during loosening the soil, a special protective mesh must be made over the pipe or cable. At the last stage, it is necessary to fill the soil and plant the plants.

Heating a greenhouse using infrared heaters

In the greenhouse, along its length, you can place several infrared heaters that will help warm the plants. For a greenhouse 3 meters wide, 6 meters long and 2 meters high, it will be enough to mount 3 devices. It is imperative to install a temperature sensor and an electrical panel with a thermostat together with the heaters.

Heating a polycarbonate greenhouse

Due to the fact that polycarbonate retains heat better than glass or polyethylene, such designs are widespread among gardeners and gardeners. It is also worth noting that this synthetic material is very light and affordable. Installation of a heating system in polycarbonate greenhouses is no different from any other greenhouses.

Conclusion

It is very difficult to answer the question of which heating is the most economically profitable and efficient in terms of the level of heat generated. Each of the known methods has its positive and negative sides. Therefore, only the consumer can make the right choice of heating, who, to the best of his financial capabilities, can choose the ideal option for himself.

What mistakes do gardeners and gardeners make when installing heating in a greenhouse, we will look at in the next video

To maintain a certain temperature regime in the greenhouse, different heating systems are used. The choice of heat supply method depends on the size of the building, the climatic conditions of the region, the availability of a particular type of fuel, financial capabilities and other factors.

Some home craftsmen undertake to organize the heating of the greenhouse with their own hands - such a solution will significantly reduce labor costs, don’t you agree? Of course, independently arranging stable heating is not an easy task, but it is quite achievable. The first step is to choose a heat source.

We will tell you what greenhouse heating options exist, what are their specific features, advantages and disadvantages of use. Based on the information presented, you will be able to decide on the type of heating, perform a preliminary calculation of thermal power, and select working units and elements of the system.

Heating a greenhouse is necessary to compensate for heat loss that occurs through the walls and ceiling of the structure, as well as due to the entry of outside air. To reduce heating costs, it is first necessary to properly insulate the greenhouse and minimize air exchange with the street.

In addition to the material from which the greenhouse is made, special attention should be paid to the tight fit of the structure to the soil. To do this, it is better to make a shallow foundation insulated from the inside when constructing a greenhouse.

It must reliably hold the structure in strong winds, prevent the formation of cracks and minimize heat exchange with the street through the top layer of soil.

To solve the last problem, even in the conditions of the northern regions, a depth of 30 centimeters is sufficient, since the thermal conductivity of the soil is very low. The intensity of vertical heat exchange between the soil layer inside the greenhouse and the underlying soil layer is very small.

In winter, snow can be used as a natural external insulation along the edges of the greenhouse.

Snow is an excellent thermal insulation material. However, the greenhouse structure must be able to withstand additional weight, and the material must not bend under its weight.

For normal plant growth, it is necessary to maintain the temperature of the air and soil-vegetative layer in a certain range. If the greenhouse operates continuously, the fertile soil will be heated due to heat exchange with the internal air. Moreover, its temperature will be almost the same as under natural conditions in summer.

The soil and ground layers freeze in winter to a depth depending on the geographic latitude of the region and the structure of the rock. To warm the soil and the adjacent top layer before planting, it is necessary to either maintain a positive air temperature for a very long time (up to a month).

An alternative solution is to carry out special actions to transfer heat directly into the soil. This can be done using a system of underground pipes into which coolant is supplied.

The amount of energy spent on heating the greenhouse depends on the following factors:

Surface area of greenhouse walls and roof. The lower this indicator, the less heat loss. Therefore, to save energy, it is better to use a rectangular or semicircular shape of the structure.
Thermal conductivity coefficient of the material. The lower this parameter, the better the material retains heat.
Temperature difference between indoor and outdoor air. The higher its value, the greater the heat loss.
Air exchange through leaks. To reduce energy costs, it is necessary to eliminate the uncontrolled flow of cold air.

The wide variety of private greenhouse designs and the quality of their installation seriously complicate temperature regime modeling. Therefore, it is possible to accurately determine the amount of energy required to heat a particular object only experimentally.

Such methods approximately calculate the required power of the heating device. The problem is the difficulty of determining the dispersion coefficient for a specific object (+)

Autonomous heating based on fuel combustion

Using the combustion process as a heat source is the most commonly used method of heating small greenhouses. Such heating has some specifics, since it is necessary to take into account the increased tightness of the room, the desirability of heating the soil and the need to maintain humidity.

Stoves and solid fuel boilers

One of the simplest devices used to heat greenhouses during cold periods is a stove. The popularity of using such a device is due to the low cost of fuel. It can be uncalibrated firewood, dry grass, coal and coal dust, garbage and flammable liquids.

When heating with stoves, it is necessary to ensure stable draft, since ventilating the greenhouse if combustion products get inside will lead to its cooling.

When using a metal stove, heating occurs quickly and energy is transferred to the surrounding air. It is also the cheapest and easiest to use heating method. You can build such a unit yourself.

On our website there is a selection of articles on the manufacture of different types of metal stoves that can be used to heat a greenhouse:

A stone stove heats up more slowly and retains heat longer. This is more suitable for heating small spaces with a medium or narrow temperature range. However, such a stove must be folded and, if necessary, cannot be moved, like its metal counterpart.

There is an idea of heating space in a greenhouse using hot combustion products. To do this, it is proposed to place the stove in a pit, and lay the chimney horizontally below ground level with its subsequent exit to the surface.

With this placement of the chimney, there will be a significant increase in its length, as a result of which hot gases will give off more heat inside the room

This option will really increase the heating efficiency.

However, during practical implementation the following difficulties will arise:

Requirements for chimney assembly material. The air temperature leaving the furnace is very high. Therefore, the chimney should not have good heat transfer, otherwise the soil around it will burn out. Asbestos pipes can be used as a material for removing combustion products.
Compliance with the rules for placement of chimneys. It will be necessary to provide inspection windows in the chimney to clean it from soot. Therefore, you need to lay the pipe between the beds.
The need for power supply. A long horizontal section does not contribute to the creation of normal draft, so it will be necessary to install a smoke exhauster. This means the need to supply electricity to the greenhouse or periodically recharge the battery.

Therefore, the idea of underground chimney placement has not found wide application in practice.

Instead of a standard stove, you can use solid fuel ones. They burn fuel more efficiently and do not allow the rapid release of heat, which eliminates the possibility of damage to plants from high temperatures. Such factory-made boilers are easy to use and maintain, and are also compact.

Gas boilers and convectors

For greenhouses, a good alternative to stove heating is the use of a gas or convector. For small private buildings, equipment operating on the basis of gas cylinders is usually used.

Before installing a gas boiler in a greenhouse, it is necessary to thoroughly strengthen one of the walls to which it will be attached

It is better to place the gas cylinder outside the greenhouse. But in this case, it is necessary to solve the issue of preventing freezing of the gearbox during a long period with negative temperatures.

Connecting a greenhouse to the gas network is a rather complicated bureaucratic procedure. In addition, during the annual mandatory inspection by a gas service specialist, comments will be made.

In any case, the presence of a combination of gas supply and the use of open fire in a confined space requires increased safety measures. The best solution is to have a gas analyzer, as well as an automatic flame extinguishing system that is triggered when the maximum permissible concentration of a flammable substance in the air is exceeded.

From the standpoint of comparing the financial costs of installing and using stoves and gas equipment, it is impossible to draw an unambiguous conclusion. A simple gas convector costs about 12-14 thousand rubles.

This is more expensive than metal devices running on solid fuel:

the cost of metal and consumables for self-manufacturing a potbelly stove is about 3 thousand rubles;
A small-sized factory solid fuel installation, for example, the NVU-50 Tulinka model, costs about 6.6 thousand rubles.
a long-burning installation model NV-100 “Klondike” costs about 9 thousand rubles.

A stone stove will be more expensive than a gas convector due to the cost of building the foundation and laying it.

It is advisable to install a stone stove if you are sure that the greenhouse will be located at this location for more than one year

The cost of liquefied or natural gas spent on heating any room will be cheaper than purchased firewood and coal. However, greenhouses are heated, as a rule, with free or cheap combustible waste, which is always sufficient in rural and dacha areas.

Problem of air leaks and humidity

The use of heating devices in which open combustion of fuel occurs leads to the need to remove combustion products through the chimney. In this case, compensation for the volume of exhaust air is necessary.

In buildings, it is possible through uncontrolled inflow (infiltration) which occurs due to the presence of cracks and holes in the walls and ceiling.

The design of modern greenhouses, such as polycarbonate, creates an airtight space. In this case, the problem of air intake is solved by the presence of vents and the installation of a special supply opening.

It should be placed in such a way as to avoid a concentrated flow of cold air onto the plants. It is also possible to use several small holes to organize a distributed inflow.

Exhaust systems for closed-type gas convectors are already equipped with a pipe for the flow of outside air into the combustion chamber.

Often after operation of furnaces and boilers, the effect of air drying is observed. This is due to the lower absolute humidity of the incoming cold flow (especially frosty) in relation to the warm air leaving the greenhouse through the chimney.

To maintain accurate air humidity parameters, a humidifier with a hygrometer is used, which can be powered by a local energy source. If there is no such need, you can place an open container of water in the greenhouse. Then, in the event of strong drying of the air, the process of evaporation will naturally occur.

Ways to distribute heat evenly

For small greenhouses, placing one heating source is sufficient. Air circulation in the room will be ensured due to the vertical temperature difference and, thus, warm air will be distributed.

In any greenhouse, when it is heated, a slight vertical temperature difference occurs. This must be remembered when placing thermometers

In rooms of large area or complex geometry, it is possible to form zones with different microclimate parameters. This is sometimes done on purpose in industrial greenhouses, but in most cases this phenomenon is undesirable.

To distribute heat evenly, two methods are used:

Creation of artificial air circulation. Blade fans are usually used. Sometimes an air duct system with integrated pumps is constructed so that air is taken in at one end of the room and exhausted at the other.
Heat transfer due to intermediate coolant. As a rule, an ordinary water system with forced circulation is used. Pipes can be laid both around the perimeter of the greenhouse and under the soil layer.

Forced heat distribution is also necessary to prevent the formation of a high temperature zone near the heater. Otherwise, plants located near the stove or boiler may suffer thermal damage.

Popular heating methods without open fire

The use of open fire has some limitations, since combustion waste is released, and fire safety measures must be observed. Therefore, other methods are often used to release heat into the greenhouse room.

Application of electrical appliances

Using electricity to heat a greenhouse in winter is the most expensive method. However, it is also the simplest, since the installation of such heating only includes electrical wiring and installation of devices.

The use of simple automation systems frees people from the need to participate in constant microclimate monitoring.

The connection diagram for several heaters via a thermostat is quite simple. The only problem may be a power outage, so you need to consider connecting additional power sources (+)

Electric heating of a greenhouse can be done using the following devices:

Heater. The simplest and cheapest device that you can make yourself.
Convector. The presence of a fan allows, in addition to heating the air, to distribute it evenly throughout the greenhouse.
Heat pump. A powerful device for heating air in large-volume greenhouses, which is often used in conjunction with an air duct system to distribute heat. To heat a compact room you can do it yourself.
Infrared lamps. The specificity of the operation of such devices is to heat the surface on which the radiation hits. Thus, it is possible to level out the vertical temperature gradient in the room without using air circulation.
Heating cable. It is used to heat local areas in a greenhouse.

In the case of small premises, the use of electric heating is justified due to its simplicity and safety. In large and industrial greenhouses it is advisable to use other methods.

The heating cable is well suited for heating the ground. Its maximum temperature is not high, so there is no fear of the effect of burning the soil with loss of its qualities

Biochemical heat generation

One of the interesting methods of heating is to add unrotted organic fertilizer to the soil - animal manure or bird droppings. As a result of the biochemical reaction, a large amount of energy is released, which increases the temperature of the fertile layer and the air inside the room.

When manure rots, carbon dioxide, methane, as well as small amounts of hydrogen and hydrogen sulfide are released. Manure also has a specific odor. All this imposes certain restrictions on its use related to the need to ventilate the room.

In winter, as well as during prolonged cold spells in spring and autumn, intensive air exchange is undesirable. In this case, restoring the thermal balance after ventilation may require a significantly larger amount of energy than was released as a result of the process of rotting manure.

The use of such a “biological” method of heating the earth and air is justified in late spring, when ventilation occurs at positive daytime temperatures.

Systems with external heat source

Heating of the greenhouse is possible due to the close location of the house or other heated building. This simplifies the entire procedure, since there is no need to install an autonomous heat source. Using wired or wi-fi relays, you can remotely receive information about the temperature in the greenhouse and regulate its microclimate from home.

An ordinary wi-fi temperature complex consisting of a sensor and a relay costs about 2 thousand rubles. When the temperature goes out of range, it transmits its values to devices running Windows or Android

Creating a separate heating circuit

If the house uses water or steam heating, then it is possible to create a separate circuit leading to the greenhouse. It must be equipped with a separate pump, since the total horizontal length of the new segment will be large.

You also need to install an open expansion tank in the greenhouse to remove air from the system. The area of open water in the tank must be minimized to prevent intense evaporation of hot water into the room.

Radiators are rarely installed in a greenhouse, since the design of its premises plays a secondary role. If there is a lack of heat, it is better to lengthen the pipe contour, as this is cheaper and reduces the risk of leaks and breakdowns.

The outdoor segment of the circuit must be insulated to avoid heat loss and minimize the risk of freezing. The underground option for placing pipes is best suited for these purposes.

Connecting the greenhouse heating segment to the general circuit can be done using a three- or four-way valve.

Standard connection diagram for an additional heating circuit. The location of the taps in the house allows you to remotely regulate the air temperature in the greenhouse (+)

It is also possible to create an automatic temperature control system.

This can be done in the following ways:

Changing the volume of hot water passed through depending on the readings of temperature sensors. In this case, it is necessary to purchase a pump with power control.
Turning the greenhouse heating circuit on and off. For this purpose, automatic crane control systems are used.

Instead of manually changing the position of a three- or four-way valve, servo-based devices can be used. Its electronic control unit is adjusted to the readings located in the greenhouse.

The servo drive for automatic adjustment is large relative to the crane. Therefore, to install it, it is necessary to remove the heating pipe from the wall

Heating using extract air

Good heating can be obtained by using warm air from the exhaust ventilation of a residential building. By directing an insulated ventilation duct into the greenhouse, you can obtain a constant incoming flow with a temperature of 20-25°C.

The only condition is the absence of excess humidity and impurities in the air, which are typical for kitchens and bathrooms.

Air outflow from the greenhouse can be organized in two ways:

Local exhaust vent to the street in the form of a tube without a fan. It must be of small cross-section to create a high flow rate. In this case, at negative street temperatures, the condensation formation zone will be located at some distance from the tube, which will prevent the formation of ice.
Return the flow back using an additional air duct and obligatory connection to the general house hood. Otherwise, odors from the greenhouse will spread throughout all areas of the house.

This method is the most economical in terms of one-time costs for installing the system and recurring costs for fuel use. The only question remains whether the hood volume is sufficient to maintain the required temperature. It is better to check this experimentally.

If sometimes, during extreme cold snaps, the air temperature in the greenhouse drops below the permissible level, then you can build a small air heater into the air duct, or install an additional electrical device at the facility itself.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

Homemade stove with a long chimney for heating a greenhouse:

Most projects can be implemented in-house, which will reduce their cost and provide the opportunity for further independent modernization.

Heating greenhouses is a very pressing problem if you grow herbs and vegetables all year round. In summer, solar heat is enough, but how to heat a greenhouse in spring, autumn and winter is something you should think about thoroughly.

So what heating method should you choose then?

First of all, you should take into account several nuances:

You need to know exactly what purpose you are choosing a heater for. Different applications may favor different methods.
Take into account the operating features of the greenhouse in which the heating system will be installed.
Calculate the required budget for the entire event. Is this price right for you?
Lastly, don't forget about your personal preferences. Which method do you prefer?

But in order to apply such an algorithm, you need to understand all feasible types of heating for greenhouses. This is what you and I will do.

Natural

Everyone has heard about the greenhouse effect. But now it is more popular to mention it on a global scale. But where did this expression come from?

The sun's rays enter through the sections, heating the ground and air (see also article).

Warm air and the ground do not disappear anywhere, they do not mix with cold air, because this is precisely the calculation. The effect accumulates to a certain extent, and your plants receive the much-needed warmth.

Tip: To optimize your heating system, know your region's minimum temperature and the temperature your crop requires to ripen best. Then you will know how much heat to add without overdoing it.

This method is the simplest. It is only important to install the building correctly so that heat can accumulate inside. And then regulate the temperature by ventilation.

An insurmountable disadvantage of such a system is the impossibility of using it in winter. And spring and autumn, frankly speaking, won’t work either. Summer period only.

Artificial

To maintain the desired temperature throughout the year, it is necessary to use technical methods. Today there is a great variety of heating equipment, therefore, there are also quite a few methods. Let's look at them in order.

Electric heating through air

This method is simple, convenient and do-it-yourself. For its implementation, conventional fan heaters are used. Supply electricity to the building, bring such a unit, turn it on, and the process is established.

This option has the following advantages:

The relatively low price of such equipment.
Mobility. The location of the heater and the direction of the flow of warm air can be easily changed.
Warm wind. The air is not only heated, but also ventilated inside the structure.
Rapid temperature change.
The presence of a heating level regulator.
Uniform heating of the entire room in the presence of several devices.

No condensation. Thanks to the constant movement of air, water does not collect on the walls of the greenhouse.

There are also disadvantages:

Uneven heating when using only one heater.
Harmful effects on the plant when directly exposed to a hot stream. Display appliances above shelving to prevent this effect.

Tip: to operate the greenhouse in winter, prepare additional space for lighting fixtures to compensate for the lack of photosynthesis in the seedlings.

Using Electric Heating Cable

This method is quite new, but rapidly gaining popularity due to its positive qualities.

Namely:

Low cost of system installation.
Savings in use.
Ease of use.
Automatic heating adjustment.
Uniform heat distribution throughout the entire area.
Long service life.

First of all, this method does an excellent job of heating the ground in a greenhouse. Since its installation is directly related to it.

Let's look at the installation progress:

Remove the layer of soil.
Cover the free space with sand.
We lay material with low thermal conductivity on top of the sand so that your device does not heat the globe.

Tip: to create thermal insulation, you can use expanded polystyrene or polyethylene foam. These materials have shock-resistant and moisture-proof qualities, which will serve as protection for the cable.

We place the wire in turns on the heat-insulating pad, as shown in the figure above. In this case, the rings of the conditional snake should be equidistant from each other by 15 centimeters.
Pour a few centimeters of sand on top.
To protect the equipment, we install an iron mesh over the sand.
We cover all this with a layer of earth.

Different vegetation has different heat requirements at different stages of its growth. This system allows you to satisfy such needs, which significantly increases the level of yield.

Infrared electric heating method

The main distinguishing feature is that they provide heat directly to the plants, bypassing the heating of the air.

More details about the properties:

Increasing the growth rate of seedlings by up to 40%, thanks to targeted heat transfer.
Using multiple lamps allows you to create individual zones for individual crops.
Heating the air, but from the soil and plants.
Easy to install.
High mobility.
Heating level regulator.
Performance up to ten years.

Tip: by using a checkerboard pattern for installing infrared lamps, you will get rid of the possibility of “dead zones”, places that are not heated by any device.

This method has an incredibly high return at low cost.

Heating a greenhouse using pipes

In this case, you cannot do without a stove. The method of heating with water using pipes is considered to be one of the cheapest and easiest to implement. But this is more likely due to conservatism.

Let's look at the features of this option:

It has its own heating control system, but it is less reliable and more difficult to use than that of competitive heaters.
Heating requires solid fuel, which must be added manually. This is an additional investment of time and effort.

Branches of such heaters are liquid fuel and gas furnaces. The former better regulate air heating, while the latter are completely automated, but require good exhaust. True, such models are already much more expensive in price.

Another variation of stove heating with pipes can be connection to the house. Here detailed instructions are already needed so as not to cause harm by leaving living quarters without proper heat.

Bake

The stove can be used without pipes at all. In this case, all costs for installing additional units are deducted. This makes this method the most accessible and easy to implement, but requires a lot of attention and has a relatively low efficiency.

Ordinary firewood, coal, coke, or your other preferred option are perfect as fuel.

Emergency heating

It's suddenly cold, but your heating isn't ready?

You can use the method with the maximum rate of temperature rise:

Take an empty barrel and porous bricks.
Blot the bricks with the flammable mixture and place them in a barrel.
Place the container with bricks near the greenhouse.
Install a pipe from the top of your device to the ceiling of the greenhouse.
You set the bricks on fire.

Executing this option very quickly heats the room and maintains the temperature until the morning.

Bottom line

For year-round use of a greenhouse without heating, there is no way. But the good thing is that there are plenty of ways to implement it.

It all depends on your budget, preferences and the scale with which you are going to grow vegetables. You can choose either an economical one-time option or a system that works properly for years.

A heated greenhouse is a great way to extend the growing season and fruiting of vegetables. There are several ways to set up a heating system; the choice depends on the area of the greenhouse and its purpose, as well as the resources available to you. You can install the heating system yourself.

It is advisable to install heating systems in greenhouses for year-round use or for early spring planting of vegetables, herbs and flowers.

Effective methods of heating greenhouses include:

stove heating, including with air and water circuits;
water heating based on solid fuel, gas or electric boiler;
heating using a gas gun;
electric heating using convectors or infrared heaters;
heating the soil with a heating cable or water heating pipes.

The methods can be combined, for example, by installing stove heating as the main heating source and a heating cable as an additional one.

When installing a boiler and installing a water heating system, soil heating is also done with water, connecting the pipes with a separate circuit.

Heating with gas guns is quite effective - the room warms up quickly, and the gas consumption is small. The gun takes up little space and is quite safe to use.

When using electric heating as the main one, it is recommended to use infrared heaters - they heat the soil and the plants themselves without drying out the air. Convectors heat the air, while in the lower part of the greenhouse - in the root zone - the temperature remains low, and at the top - excessively high. For this reason, convectors are usually used only for temporary heating.

Prices for heat guns

heat guns

Stove heating of a greenhouse

Ovens for greenhouses can be metal or brick. The second option is preferable - the brick takes longer to heat up, but at the same time retains heat well and cools down for a long time, and the temperature in the greenhouse remains stable. When heating with a brick stove, the air does not dry out, the humidity remains within acceptable limits.

Metal stoves heat up quickly, but have a low heat capacity and heat only as long as the wood burns. At the same time, the walls of the devices become very hot and dry the air. For this reason, metal stoves are often equipped with a water circuit with registers or radiators - the heated water in them cools down gradually, smoothing out temperature changes.

Metal stoves for greenhouses

metal stoves are mobile, they can be installed for several cold months and removed in the summer;
they do not require a foundation and do not take up much space;
by choosing the appropriate model, you can connect the water circuit;
the price of metal stoves is not too high;
installation and installation can be done with your own hands, even without the knowledge of laying stoves.

Disadvantages of metal stoves:

the heating process cannot be automated; the stove will have to be heated manually;
metal stoves dry the air, so it is necessary to install containers with water in the greenhouse to humidify the air.

The stove can be installed either in the greenhouse itself or in a vestibule or utility room by connecting an air or water circuit to the greenhouse. The chimney from a metal stove can be placed in the greenhouse space, installing it at an angle of at least 15 degrees - this will provide additional heating. In this case, an uninsulated metal pipe is used. To pass through the roof or wall of the greenhouse, it is necessary to use special heat-insulated boxes.

Long chimney creates additional heating

Note! When installing the stove, it is important to ensure its stability! If the stove tips over, it may cause a fire or damage to the greenhouse!

An overview of popular and inexpensive models of metal furnaces is given in Table 1.

Table 1. Furnaces for heating industrial greenhouses.

Models, illustrations	Short description
	Compact and inexpensive stove with the simplest design possible. Thermal power of 4 kW allows you to heat a greenhouse with a volume of up to 80 m3, that is, an area of 25-30 m2. The stove body is made of steel; wood is used as fuel. The surface of the stove can be used as a stove, for example, to heat water for irrigation or humidification.
	The stove is small in size, made of heat-resistant steel, and equipped with side convectors that distribute warm air. Power 6 kW, designed for greenhouses up to 60 m2. The firebox door has a viewing window with glass, which allows you to control the process of burning wood. On the upper surface there is a burner on which you can heat water. Fuel - wood or burnt garbage.
	A 5 kW stove for heating greenhouses with an area of up to 50 m2. Equipped with a casing with convection holes that promote uniform heat transfer. There is a burner on the surface. Fuel - firewood. It is distinguished by its stability, small size and weight.
	Power 6 kW, greenhouse area – 60-80 m2. The sides of the oven are protected by casings, so they do not heat up to temperatures dangerous for plants. The casings are equipped with convection holes. The door is firmly locked, which eliminates smoke. A convenient box for ash allows you to collect it and use it as fertilizer.
	Power 6 kW, area – up to 60 m2. The firebox is designed like a gas generator and has two combustion chambers. In the first, wood is burned, in the second, combustion gases are burned. The walls of the firebox are formed by hollow pipes. Cold air enters there from below, heats up when the stove is fired and exits through the top. Thanks to constant air exchange, the oven does not overheat. Air ducts can be connected to the pipes, and the stove itself can be installed in an adjacent room. The stove has a long burning mode – up to 10 hours.
	A 6 kW furnace for heating a greenhouse up to 60 m2 is equipped with a water jacket located around the walls of the firebox. Connects to a water heating system. The stove operates as a gas generator and is equipped with a long-burning mode. It has compact dimensions and high efficiency. Any firewood, wood waste, branches, cardboard can be used as fuel. Easy to maintain and safe.

Note! The choice of stoves for greenhouses is very large; when choosing, you need to pay attention to thermal power and functionality.

Installing a metal stove in a greenhouse

Step 1. Prepare a solid base from paving slabs, bricks or tightly compacted earth. It is better to place the stove in the center of the greenhouse so that heating is more even. Furnaces with an air or water circuit are installed in any convenient place, observing the fire safety distances specified in the passport.

Step 2. Install the stove on the prepared surface, check whether it will be convenient to load firewood and remove ash. If there is a main wall, the stove is installed with the back wall facing it.

Step 3. Connect a chimney of the required diameter to the smoke pipe using heat-resistant sealant. The chimney installation must be carried out in accordance with the diagram. Narrowing of the chimney is not allowed.

Step 4. If necessary, connect a water or air circuit.

Note! Stoves with a water heat exchanger cannot be fired without a filled heating system, as this will lead to damage.

Brick stoves for greenhouses

Brick heating stoves are usually used in year-round greenhouses. A brick stove can effectively heat a greenhouse even during the frosty winter months due to their increased heat capacity. Any heating stove is suitable for a greenhouse, the main thing is that the heat output matches the area. Below is the technology for laying a simple brick oven.

To build a brick kiln you will need:

solid ceramic brick – 220 pcs.;
fireclay brick – 80 pcs.;
clay masonry mortar – 80 l;
fireclay masonry mortar – 30 l;
concrete for the foundation - 0.25 m 3;
finished cast iron products - grate, combustion, ash and cleanout doors, smoke damper;
cuttings of roofing felt or glass insulation.

A sectional drawing of the furnace is shown in the figure. The height of the stove to the chimney is 215 cm; the structure can be placed in almost any greenhouse of standard sizes. The horizontal dimensions of the oven are 51x77 cm.

Step 1. Construction of the foundation. Any brick oven requires a solid foundation. It is made of reinforced concrete with a thickness of at least 20-30 cm. Under the foundation, soil is removed from an area of 70x100 cm to a depth of 35-40 cm. The bottom is leveled with coarse sand with a layer of 20 cm, and formwork made of boards is installed around the perimeter. Reinforcement rods Ø12 mm are laid in the form of two rows of lattice with a pitch of 20 cm. Concrete is mixed and poured into the prepared pit. Dry the foundation for at least three weeks, moistening the surface from time to time.

Step 2. Laying the ash pit and firebox. They begin laying the furnace according to the diagram. The first 4 rows are made of red brick on clay mortar. Install the ash pan door, securing it in the masonry with wire.

Attaching the legs to the frame of the combustion door: 1 - door; 2 - frame; 3 - paws.
Overlapping the combustion door: A - with an overlap; B - “to the castle”; B - wedge-shaped brick

Rows 5 to 12 are laid out of fireclay bricks on refractory mortar. In the 5th row a grate is laid. A fire door is installed in rows 6, 7 and 8. Rows 9 to 12 form the arch of the firebox.

Step 3. Rows 13 to 15 are also laid with fireclay bricks on refractory mortar. Rows 13 and 14 cover the arch of the firebox, and in row 15 a cleaning door is installed. From the 16th row, the masonry is again done with red brick. In row 16, the installation of the cleaning door continues. Rows 17 to 21 form smoke channels. The first smoke damper is installed in row 22.

Step 4. Rows 23 to 27 continue the smoke channels. In the 28th row a narrowing of the channel is laid out, in the 29th row a second smoke damper is installed. Rows 30 and 31 form the furnace roof. Starting from the 32nd row, lay a chimney of the required height from 4 bricks with a dressing.

The process of laying the stove is shown in detail in the video.

Brick prices

Video - Laying a small heating stove

Note! For greenhouses of low height, you can build a stove with horizontally located smoke channels.

Water heating in a greenhouse can be done in two ways: by connecting the greenhouse to the heating system of the house or by installing a separate boiler. The connection to the general system is made with a separate circuit so that it can be turned off and the water drained.

If a separate heating system is installed, a boiler is installed in the greenhouse.

Depending on the most accessible and cheapest fuel, this could be a boiler:

gas;
solid fuel;
electric;
universal.

A gas boiler is considered the most economical and convenient to use. It maintains the set mode automatically, while heating the greenhouse is inexpensive. To remove combustion products from gas boilers, a coaxial chimney is used, the surface of which practically does not heat up.

Solid fuel boilers, depending on the modification, can operate on wood, coal and pellets. This fuel is also inexpensive, but the level of automation in most solid fuel boilers is low, they require constant monitoring and loading.

Electric boilers have a high level of automation and can maintain temperature in day and night mode. They are compact, silent and completely safe. They have only one drawback - the high price of electricity.

How to choose a boiler for a greenhouse

The choice of boiler for a greenhouse depends, first of all, on its size and the type of crops grown. If there is gas on the site, it is more profitable and convenient to heat a greenhouse of any size using a gas boiler. In non-gasified areas, you have to choose between other types of boilers.

In a year-round greenhouse with an area of more than 50 m2, with available firewood, it is better to install a solid fuel boiler. In this case, the costs of installing it and installing the chimney will pay off in 1-3 years.

In a small greenhouse with periodic use, it is not advisable to install a solid fuel boiler. It is easier to install a low-power electric boiler - it does not require a specially designated area and installation of a chimney, and energy costs in this case will be low.

Winter greenhouses made of polycarbonate have long ceased to be a rarity: modern technologies make it possible to create the necessary microclimate in them and grow herbs, vegetables and even berries for your table or for sale. Read more.

Calculation of the number of radiators

To ensure a favorable microclimate in the greenhouse, it is necessary to first determine the required number of radiators. Calculation for greenhouses with a height of less than 3 meters can be carried out according to a simplified scheme - by area.

The area is determined by the formula:

S = a * b,

WhereS – greenhouse area, m2;a andb – length and width of the greenhouse, m.

The estimated thermal power of the greenhouse is determined by the formula:

P = S * 120,

WhereP – design thermal power, W;S – greenhouse area, m2.

Calculation of the number of radiator sections:

n = P: p,

Wheren – number of radiator sections of the selected type;p – thermal power of one radiator section, indicated in the data sheet, W.

The resulting number of sections is evenly distributed throughout the greenhouse, distributing them over several radiators.

Note! For greenhouses, it is better to choose radiators of minimum height - this way the root space and soil will be fully warmed up.

Installation of a water heating system

Regardless of the type of boiler chosen, the greenhouse water heating system is installed according to the same scheme.

In addition to the boiler, the system includes:

pipes and radiators;
circulation pump;
expansion tank;
security group;
coarse filter;
balancing valve
in the case of heating several circuits - a collector unit.

For solid fuel boilers and high-power greenhouses, it is also recommended to install a heat accumulator. The heating circuit connection diagram is shown in the figure.

Step 1. Boiler installation. To install a solid fuel boiler, it is better to equip a vestibule or boiler room. Gas and electric boilers are located directly in the greenhouse.

Depending on the type, the unit is installed on the floor or hung on a solid wall. For a floor installation, it is necessary to prepare a solid horizontal base - a concrete foundation or paving slabs laid on a sand bed.

Step 2. Connection to the chimney. This step is performed for solid fuel or gas boilers. For solid fuel boilers, a sandwich chimney made of stainless steel is used. It is brought out through the roof or wall in accordance with the diagram.

For gas boilers, a coaxial chimney is used. It is taken out directly through the wall where the boiler is installed. Due to the complete combustion of gas in boilers, the output is water vapor and carbon dioxide with a small content of other elements, so the smoke from gas boilers is not dangerous for the walls of the greenhouse and the respiratory system of people.

Step 3. Connecting radiators to the heating system. Radiators are mounted on the walls, evenly distributing them throughout the greenhouse. An air valve is installed on each radiator - a Mayevsky tap, as well as valves with which you can shut off the flow of water into the radiator. Radiators are mounted according to the chosen scheme. For the heating system, pipes Ø20-Ø25 mm are used.

Step 4. Installation of expansion tank. For a forced circulation system, a closed membrane type expansion tank is usually used. It does not have strict requirements for the installation location. The membrane expansion tank is a sealed cylinder, the internal space of which is divided by a polymer membrane. One part of the tank is filled with air, the other with coolant. When the coolant heats up excessively and expands, the membrane bends, and the air in the other chamber is compressed. In this case, the pressure in the system is equalized.

The tank is installed in the system anywhere, usually immediately after leaving the boiler or before the circulation pump. The connection is made from below through a valve.

Step 5. Installation of a security group. The safety group consists of a pressure gauge, safety valve and air vent, which are placed on a steel manifold equipped with a coupling for connection to the system. Connect the safety group immediately after the boiler in a place with maximum temperature and pressure.

Step 6 Installation of a circulation pump. A circulation pump is necessary to maintain stable pressure in the system. It is installed on the return pipe before entering the boiler. A coarse filter must be installed in front of the pump.

Step 7 Air pressure testing. It is carried out to identify defects in equipment and installation. After installation is completed, a special compressor is connected to the system, all valves and Mayevsky taps are closed, then the pressure specified in the passport for the boiler and radiators is applied. After the pressure has stabilized, inspect all joints and assemblies, check them with soap foam: apply it with a sponge to the joints and make sure that there are no bubbles.

After successful pressure testing, the boiler and system are filled with coolant, and a test run of the boiler is carried out. The air is bleed using Mayevsky valves and the system is balanced using balancing valves on the radiators.

Note! Gas and electric boilers with a high level of automation can be equipped with a circulation pump, expansion tank and safety devices. Before installing the system, carefully read the instructions for the boiler.

Circulation pump prices

circulation pump

Electric heating of the greenhouse

Infrared heaters are usually used to heat a greenhouse: they heat the soil and create a feeling of warmth, while objectively the temperature in the greenhouse can be moderate and energy costs can be low. In some cases, other types of heaters are also used.

Calculation of the required number of infrared heaters is carried out according to a simplified scheme: for every 10 m 2 of greenhouse, 1 kW of heater power is required. For example, a greenhouse with an area of 30 m2 requires heaters with a total power of 3 kW. This power is evenly distributed across several devices.

Infrared heaters are suspended from the greenhouse frame on brackets and connected to the electrical network. If necessary, you can automate the heating by connecting temperature sensors located at a height of 80-100 cm. Light from the heaters should not fall on the sensors, otherwise measurement errors may occur.

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