How to fix a leaking toilet. What to do if the toilet is leaking

The mood of the owners and the thickness of their wallets depend on how well the home plumbing works. If a faucet is leaking in the house, or water is constantly flowing in the toilet, the situation clearly requires qualified intervention. Probably, a more rational solution would be not to pay huge bills on the meter, enriching the local water utility, but to try to figure out why the water is leaking in the toilet and decide how to fix the leak. At the same time, there may not be so many fatal causes of the malfunction that you panic and call a plumber.

What could be causing the leak?

There can be only four main faults that cause water to leak from the tank into the toilet:

Malfunction of the shut-off system of the main valve, which holds the required volume inside the tank;
A crack in the plastic or brass fittings connecting the tank and the toilet;
Failure of the float system;
Abnormal operation of the shut-off valve that regulates the flow of water from the water supply to the tank.

For your information! In addition to the options listed, another reason why water leaks into the toilet may be a crack in the plastic or ceramic wall of the tank.

This is the most unpleasant and difficult case to diagnose, since repairs will usually require replacing the tank; sealing and sealing the crack is almost impossible. But such cases occur, as a rule, once in a million; in addition, in such conditions, water flows from the tank into the toilet and onto the toilet floor.

In 99 cases out of 100, the location and problem due to which the toilet tank is leaking can be quickly established experimentally; for this, you do not need to disassemble the structure, as plumbers on duty like to do, in order to show how to fix the toilet. It is enough to remove the top cover and carefully inspect the lifting mechanism of the main valve, float and shut-off valves. After you observe the operation of all the parts, fill the water three or four times and flush it into the toilet, it will become clear what to do, why the tank is leaking, and how to repair it.

Do-it-yourself diagnostics and repairs

Oddly enough, but according to statistics, the main reason why a toilet usually begins to leak is not the breakdown of any specific part, for example, the valve locking needle, but the usual jamming of the lifting mechanism of the main valve.

Lifting mechanism stuck

The complexity of this malfunction lies in the fact that when the lever or flush button is pressed, in 5 cases the system works normally, and in one case the main bulb or poppet valve, blocking the toilet window, freezes. After the main charge is flushed, some of the water continues to flow out of the tank in a thin stream until the float closes the valve, or the drain system is used again and the main valve bulb snaps into place. The valve is located at the bottom of the mechanism, and you can evaluate how complete the closure is only by pressing the guide rod with the bulb all the way with your hand. If after pressing the water does not leak, then the source of the problem has been identified.

The cause of this malfunction is usually:

High salt content in water. The plaque deposited on plastic parts can cement any, even expensive, imported mechanism;
Factory defect or extreme wear of the mechanism;
Incorrect adjustment or assembly of drain fittings.

Advice! To check the correctness of the diagnosis, you can press the button ten to twenty times and observe the operation of the mechanism; if in at least one case the valve is frozen, it means that water is leaking due to it.

Fixing the problem is very simple - you need to remove plaque from most of the parts and observe the operation of the toilet flush for 24 hours. If water is leaking, then you need to look at the valves and the float that activates them.

Often, the lift can freeze due to the poor quality of the mechanism itself. For example, the presence of burrs or casting flash leads to a barely noticeable jamming of the rod with a gap of a fraction of a millimeter, through which water leaks in a volume of up to 30 liters per hour.

Inspecting the valve and float of the drain system

The second most common reason why water often leaks in the toilet tank is a malfunction of the shut-off valve. Why water leaks when the main valve is closed can be understood from the video

When the container is filled with water, the float raises the needle drive lever, and the latter closes the inlet hole inside the valve. If the float has lost its buoyancy, then it is impossible to close the entrance, and then water flows into the toilet in a thick, steady stream, without reducing power for many hours. If you remove the lid, you can see that the container is filled almost to the brim, the float has sunk, and the excess overflows through the hole in the central drain pipe. To repair, you just need to replace the float with a new one.

It's worse if the float floats, the needle lever is raised, and the inlet is not blocked. In this case, you will need to inspect the valve body; perhaps the plastic is cracked and water is leaking through the crack. Sometimes the locking needle or the shaft on which the lever rotates becomes deformed, rusts and fails. In this case, as with the lifting mechanism hanging, water may leak from the tank in a thin, barely noticeable stream. To check the operation of the valve, it is enough to drain the main mass and lift the valve lever by hand to the operating position.

If water leaks through the joints or seal, then you can simply repack the valve at the mounting location. To do this, the housing is screwed off by hand or with a wrench from the inlet fitting, blown out, cleaned of dirt, and after winding the threads with a sealing tape-fuel, carefully screwed back until it stops.

In older models, the valve was cast from brass or plumbing bronze; the service life of such a device was calculated to be 10-15 years, but in reality they served for 30 years. Such a valve needs to be repaired and put in place; water leaks through such constipations once every hundred years. In all other cases, the shut-off valve must be replaced.

To avoid getting into a situation where a toilet that is leaking water will add up to three months' worth of water in a couple of days, experienced craftsmen always advise paying attention to periods when the water in the house is turned off. Especially if the riser pipes are old and rusty, or the neighbors are doing renovations on the floor below.

In such a situation, rust and scale easily come off the walls of water pipes and clog both the shut-off and drain valves. At first, water begins to ooze out in tiny portions, but after a week it flows in a steady stream.

Main locking element of the tank

The main valve, also called a bulb, is designed to discharge water into the toilet in one burst. In older designs, the body was made in the form of a thin-walled rubber hemisphere, softly and tightly fitting to the seat. Even if the base was slightly deformed during operation, the thin-walled pear could adapt to the changed profile. In such a system, water leaks only if large pieces of scale, dirt, or limescale get under the valve.

In modern designs, the main valve is made in the form of a round rubber plate. Often during assembly it is necessary to trim and clean the surface of the new valve to ensure the best possible seal. Over time, the rubber ages, and as a result, water leaks from the tank more and more every day. Therefore, in order to prevent a situation where water begins to leak on an almost new tank, craftsmen install a valve made of special white rubber that does not age in water.

Checking the operation of the main valve is quite simple; you need to turn off the water and fill the tank to the required level. A column of water presses the rubber valve to the seat and prevents water flow from leaking. If water does appear, the rod can be lightly pressed with your hand. If water continues to leak under such conditions, it means that it is necessary to change the valve rubber or check the condition of the seat on which the shut-off element rests.

In rare cases, it does happen when the seat ring loses its seal due to a crack or seal failure. For example, you can inadvertently lean on the tank with force, and a day later you find that water is leaking in the toilet, although everything was fine before. In this case, you will need to dismantle the drain mechanism, unscrew the valve support ring and replace it with a new one.

Conclusion

Sometimes know-it-all plumbers resort to an old trick. Instead of replacing the valve rubber, they put a pair of old automotive roller bearings on the stem. The weight of such a load allows you to increase the pressure on the valve, and water stops leaking. Usually the repair ends there. A year later it turns out that water is leaking as before. After inspecting the tank, it turns out that the bottom is covered with a thick layer of rust from rotten bearings. Therefore, such options can only be recommended as a necessary measure for a short period of time.

In our material today, we will talk about the main causes of toilet cistern leakage, and also tell you about troubleshooting methods.

Causes

The detected problems with the toilet, which began to leak in certain places, are caused by three reasons. Sometimes separately, and sometimes they provoke a breakdown through joint efforts:

When installing new plumbing, installation and assembly errors are often made.
During long-term operation, the tank leaks due to failed or worn-out structural elements and fittings. Natural breakdowns usually occur only three years after installation.
Mechanical damage, violation of operating recommendations. These are sharp tugs on levers, strong pressing of buttons, random blows, and so on.

Now let's look at several types of leaks separately.

Types of leaks

When draining

Leaks may occur after pressing the drain button. This indicates the need to check the design of the drain system. Often the cause is impaired functionality of the shut-off valve. Grasp it with your hand and press lightly. If this helps, then the valve simply did not fit tightly to the surface. Replace the old valve gasket with a good quality new one and you're done.
The drain key is displaced, the position of the height adjuster is broken. In such situations, the valve is located higher than the drain hole. The resulting gap leads to leakage. Adjust the regulator a little, try to return the button to its original position. To do this, you need to tighten the fasteners that secure the tank to the pipe or the plumbing product itself.
Water leaks due to a loose nut attached to the outside of the bottom. The reason is simple - the seal is broken. Most likely, replacing the gasket or installing a new nut with a high quality gasket will help.

Remember, if the damage is minor and caused by a seal failure, then use simple sealants. For more serious problems, replace damaged elements of the tank.

If it flows through the overflow

First of all, correct the lever of the float system, and also check the condition of the valve and the float itself. Sometimes water is not retained inside the tank, but flows directly into the bowl through the overflow. It is possible that the lever has moved from its original position, or a misalignment has occurred.

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Check to see if there is any liquid in the float. This is often what causes leaks through overflows. If it really is there, then the float is out of order. Bringing it back to life is simple:

Remove the float;
Pour out any accumulated water;
Dry thoroughly, even using a hairdryer, which will speed up the process;
Repair cracks and holes through which water has entered. Epoxy glue is useful for this. If you add a little super cement to it, the quality of the repair will be even higher;
Return the element to its place.

If the float system valve fails, the easiest way is to replace it with a new one. It's not difficult to do this:

Release all liquid from the water reservoir;
Remove the fitting using a wrench. It connects the valve to the water supply system, that is, the plumbing;
Remove the lever, but be careful not to damage other elements;
Remove the inner as well as the outer nut that holds the lever in place;
Remove the float valve;
Install the new element using the fixing nuts;
Fill the reservoir with liquid;
Secure the lever in the correct position;
Do a test flush to determine if you did everything right.

If there is a problem with the siphon membrane, it must be replaced. The problem cannot be solved by using glue or sealants. Buy a new membrane, similar to the old one. Remove it and find a similar one at a plumbing supply store. To carry out repairs, follow these simple instructions:

Drain the water until nothing is left in the drain tank;
Using a rope, tie the float lever to a crossbar. The element must be securely fixed;
Any plank or piece of wood placed in place of the tank lid can serve as a crossbar;
Remove the nut connecting the flush pipe and the tank;
Loosen the other nut slightly by unscrewing it from the siphon. It is located at the base of the container;
Carefully disconnect the siphon from the lever and pull it out;
Now take the new membrane and place it in its rightful place;
Reassemble the entire system in reverse order.

Between the cistern and the toilet

Inspect the condition of the cuff. It will have to be corrected or tightened using a clamp. Do not overtighten the bolts, but at the same time do not make the fasteners too weak.
If there is a corrugated area on the cuff, they sometimes move from their original position. Clamps or plumbing insulation will help return it to its place. The last option will give a temporary result, so a clamp is the optimal solution.
The cause of this type of leak may be weak fastening of the tank and shelf. Check that the nuts and bolts are securely tightened. Brass bolts are eternal, but their metal counterparts lose their original characteristics over time.
If the previous option did not work, take a closer look at the gaskets on the tank. Unscrew all nuts and bolts, inspect the condition of the gaskets. Replacing them is not difficult or expensive.
If the shelf is damaged, clamps and sealants will not help. A complete replacement of the shelf or even the tank will be required.

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From the tank to the floor

The primary cause is poorly tightened bolts or deformed over time and under the influence of moisture:

If they are not tight enough, but the fasteners are new, simply work with the appropriate tool to tighten the fasteners.
If fasteners lose quality, they need to be replaced. Turn off the water, drain the remaining water, partially dismantle the fittings in order to have more or less convenient access to the bolt heads. After removing the old ones, replace them with new ones, not forgetting about the rubber seals.

It would be a good idea to use sealants at the joints. This is generally a useful thing for solving many leakage problems. You should not rely solely on gaskets and seals, since even the highest quality products cannot always cope with the loads. An additional measure of protection in the form of a sealant will extend the life of your plumbing fixtures and make your life easier.

Other causes of leakage

This is not a complete list of possible leaks that arise as a result of the use of toilets. Let's name a few more of them, as well as ways to eliminate them:

The flush button does not work. Here you will need to remove the cover and check the condition of the drain system. Often the drain rod comes off, as does the pressure shutter valve. You just need to put them in their place. Check if the button is dirty, clean off any accumulated dirt and put it back. Problem solved.
High noise level when drawing water. The water supply system may have different pressures. If it is high, then increased pressure is created on the float valve and the element cannot cope with the load. The result is increased noise. Replace the valve that can cope with such a set, or install a stabilization valve.

If the tank is leaking due to condensation, then you need to find out the cause and eliminate it:

The inlet and outlet fittings need to be repaired. If it is broken, water flows into the toilet and heats up to room temperature. At the same time, cold water comes from the water supply, which creates condensation;
It is necessary to reduce the volume of drainage. This is true for regularly used toilets. It is recommended to replace the regular drain button with a double one, where one will drain a smaller volume of liquid, and the second will drain a larger volume;
Eliminate high humidity in the room itself. If it is a combined bathroom, it will be more difficult. You can install an electric heated towel rail, plus be sure to provide an effective ventilation system.

Do-it-yourself toilet repair is a procedure that many people have to deal with from time to time. You can replace various failed parts yourself, but sometimes the breakdown is so complex that it is not possible to carry out the repair yourself. A leak in the toilet cistern belongs to the category of serious toilet breakdowns.

Having discovered that the toilet tank with the button is leaking, the owner immediately thinks about what to do if water is flowing in the toilet. Our article will tell you why water leaks in the toilet, what types of breakdowns of such structures occur, and how to eliminate a leak in the toilet tank.

Toilet device

To understand the specifics of repairing a toilet bowl yourself, you must first of all know how this very toilet works. It consists, in fact, of the toilet itself, and the flush cistern, which is a very important element of the entire flush mechanism. Up-to-date information on what to do if the toilet tank is leaking will also be covered in this article. Photo No. 1 will show readers what elements a toilet flush device consists of.

So, the toilet cistern functions on the same principle as the water seal. It is based on a whole complex of levers, a float and a seal. Modern toilets and their cisterns come with a flush button. When pressed, water is supplied to the bowl, and it is with the flow of this water that all waste moves into the sewer.

Next, the drain tank is filled with water through a special hose until the bowl becomes full again. When the water in the drain tank reaches the required limits, a special shutter valve blocks its further flow into the tank reservoir, and nothing can be washed off with water. It must be said that in older models of toilets, the cistern lid is simply and easily removed.

But in the best models of modern toilets, such an element comes complete with a flush button located on the top cover. In the second option, before you start repairing the toilet with your own hands, you must first remove the flush button from the flush cistern by removing the fixing ring.

For this purpose, the ring is scrolled counterclockwise, or pryed with a sharp object (for example, a nail file). After such manipulations, the drain tank lid is usually easily removed from the main tank. If it is fixed on the tank with fasteners, then unscrew them before removing this element. In photo No. 2 you can see how the flush toilet cistern is designed.

We would like to draw the attention of readers to the fact that the cistern lid is not sold separately, but is sold together with the toilet. That is why you should remove it from the toilet cistern tank very carefully. If this element cracks or breaks into pieces, then it will not be possible to replace the toilet tank alone, since it is not sold separately. In such a deplorable case, even repairing the toilet will not help; you will have to completely replace it.

It must be said that in some models of modern toilets, flush cisterns are supplied not with a single button, but with two button elements. The best way to remove the lid from the tank is to initially press both buttons in turn (as shown in photo No. 3), and then unscrew them counterclockwise until completely dismantled.

Many manufacturers strive to make the mechanism of action of a toilet with a button on the tank better, and therefore the designs of different toilet models differ slightly from each other. The cistern lid must be removed before repairing the toilet with your own hands.

This will allow the technician to carefully and carefully examine the structure of the toilet tank, determine the cause of the breakdown of the flush tank, and replace damaged parts if necessary. The following video will tell you in detail about the structure of the toilet cistern:

Types of faults

As a rule, home owners begin to think about repairing a toilet with their own hands at the very last moment, when a leak has already appeared. The fact that malfunctions and breakdowns occur in the operation of the toilet cistern seems insignificant to them and does not require attention. Usually, neglect of the fact that the toilet is leaking after flushing continues exactly until the receipt of utility bills for water is received.

Looking at the water meter, the inhabitants of the house understand that this same water flows away in exorbitant quantities. And at this moment they suddenly remember that water had already started flowing from the toilet tank a long time ago. And besides, the neighbors below began to complain a few weeks ago that water was flowing from your apartment onto their ceiling, causing the formation of unsightly stains on it. The reason that the water from your toilet is flooding your neighbors is most likely a leaking coupling that requires repair, which connects the flush cistern to the toilet.

But, regardless of the reasons why the toilet tank is leaking, the current situation, without a doubt, leads to a lot of problems for the owners of the house. And therefore, you should start repairing the toilet yourself as quickly as possible, or use the support of qualified specialists. The video will tell you in detail how to properly repair a tank when leaks are detected.

Among the known breakdowns of the toilet cistern are the following:

The toilet cistern has a leak through the overflow.
Water flows between the cistern and the toilet.
The toilet leaks after flushing by pressing the flush button.

Many apartment owners often have to deal with the problem of a leak in the toilet cistern. You can determine why the toilet cistern is leaking and repair the toilet yourself, or by inviting a professional to your home who can approach the repair with full responsibility. Photo No. 4 shows an example of disassembling the flush mechanism of a modern toilet.

At the same time, you should also remember that repairing a toilet bowl can be done with your own hands. However, the issue of repairing a toilet carried out independently should be approached thoroughly. Naturally, first you should study how the toilet flush cistern is arranged inside, as well as the features of repairing it yourself.

Is water flowing between the tank and the toilet?

One of the problems that arise with a toilet cistern is water leaking between the cistern itself and the toilet itself. If the toilet in your apartment leaks after flushing, then the reason for this may be the connecting cuff, with the help of which the flush cistern and toilet are combined into a single system. In this case, you should carefully check the condition of the cuff.

External leakage of connecting pipes and communications between the tank and the toilet often occurs due to a malfunction of this very cuff. The situation can be corrected by repair, which consists of tightening this element of the toilet with clamps. In case of replacement, the clamps should be selected correctly, in accordance with the material the toilet cuff is made of (plastic or metal). Such repairs should be carried out with your own hands very carefully, so as not to overtighten the bolts or leave them too loose. It often happens that the toilet bowl leaks (photo No. 5).

This happens more often due to the displacement of the corrugated sections of the cuff from the standard position. The best repair option would be to correct the slipped cuff, as well as fix it with a clamp or plumbing insulation of the appropriate parameters (special tape). Note that if the toilet bowl leaks, then using adhesive tape to repair it is a temporary and not very reliable measure. The best methods, of course, are to solve the repair problem using clamps.

The reason that water flows between the tank and the toilet can also be a weak connection between the tank and the toilet shelf (photo No. 6), usually done with bolts and nuts.

In this case, the problem associated with the fact that the toilet is leaking due to poor fixation of the tank can be solved using repairs based on the usual tightening of nuts and bolts. When carrying out the repair procedure, it is important to understand that brass bolts do not deform even when tightly tightened, but metal bolts often require replacement over time, since they are prone to deformation.

If such repairs did not help, and you were unable to get rid of the leak yourself, then you should pay attention to the gaskets. They are located on the tank itself, and you can check their condition by first unscrewing the bolts and nuts. If these structural elements of the toilet bowl are locked or covered with cracks, then they will need to be replaced.

If the gaskets are in good condition, then the best way to update them is as follows. They are dried, and then silicone sealant is applied to the rubber surface, slightly dried again and installed in their original place, tightened tightly with nuts and bolts.

The next reason that the toilet is leaking is various damage to the plumbing shelf (photo No. 7).

The best way out of this situation would be to replace the toilet or replace only the cistern. Such breakdowns often occur due to the dilapidation of the toilet, or due to numerous mechanical damage to the earthenware surface of the cistern. Water seeps through these cracks. The best solution would be to replace the toilet, replace the cistern, or replace all the plumbing.

Another reason why a toilet leaks is water leaking between the flush cistern and the toilet, the appearance of which, in turn, is caused by cracks on the surface of the flush mechanism. Before starting repairs, if the toilet tank is leaking, you must completely disconnect the flush tank from the water supply, thoroughly dry the flush mechanism, and then seal all cracks with silicone sealant, intended specifically for repairing plumbing fixtures, and, in particular, toilets.

It is important! Try to regularly, for preventive purposes, inspect the toilet and all its components (in particular the tank). Such measures will help to detect a problem in a timely manner and prevent the occurrence of a leak. If the flush tank is located high, then it is probably connected to the toilet not only by a cuff, but also by a flexible pipe. Accordingly, you need to check both the cuff and the pipe, because the latter can also leak.

If the drain tank is located low, then in order to prevent water leakage, the condition of the nuts, bolts and gaskets should be monitored. In general, the best option for solving the problem of water leakage would be to completely replace all plumbing fixtures or at least some of its parts.

What to do if it flows through the overflow?

Sometimes apartment owners have to face a problem when water flows from the tank into the toilet. This happens because the water does not have the opportunity to linger and remain in the drain tank. Water flows through the cistern overflow directly into the toilet, creating a lot of inconvenience for the apartment residents. The explanation for the fact that the toilet cistern is leaking is the skew of the float, as a result of which the element is displaced (Photo No. 8).

Repairing such a breakdown is quite simple. You just need to lift the cover and install the element in its original location. The best experts in the field of plumbing repair also advise inspecting the tank for the presence of water. It is quite possible that the water in the tank is overflowing, which is why the water overflows. If, when examining the float, you notice that a lot of water accumulates in it, this fact indicates a breakdown of the element. Repairing it will not be difficult. The best action here would be to carry out several simple sequential procedures:

Pull out the float;
Remove the water from it;
Dry the element thoroughly (you can use a hair dryer);
Reconnect the float with the fasteners.

It is important! The described measures are temporary, because after some time the water will fill it again. Therefore, it would be better to purchase a new float and replace the broken one.

The float should also be replaced with a new one if the old float valve is damaged.

Repair of a float valve, carried out by replacing an element, is carried out in compliance with an algorithm of certain actions that contribute not only to comfortable operation, but also to the achievement of positive results.

The water from the drain tank should be completely drained.
Use a wrench to open the shaped area of the structure that connects the water pipe to the float valve.
Carefully remove the float lever.
Remove the lever fixing elements (outer and inner nuts).
Pull out the float valve.
Replace by installing a new valve in the free space and securing it with nuts.
Connect the float lever to the valve.
Fill the tank with water.
Fix the float lever as it was done before, before removing the element.

Choosing a good float valve for replacement also involves taking into account the types of element. Of course, you don’t have to pay special attention to this point, because all valve mechanisms have a single operating principle. The float, fixed by a lever, moves up or down depending on the level of water in the tank. The movement of the lever, which opens or, conversely, closes the hole through which water is supplied to the tank, depends on it.

Advice! When choosing a float valve for your toilet, be sure to consider the level of water pressure supplied to the plumbing system.

If this element of the tank is oriented towards low water pressure, then with increasing pressure and high pressure, water will constantly flow through the valve from the water supply, even if the entire system is in full working order.

Note that plumbing components on the market are represented by three types of float valves. Each of them is intended for:

Water with strong pressure.
Water with medium pressure.
Water with minimal pressure.

This fact should be taken into account when replacing one or another model of valve for the float in the toilet tank. If there is uncertainty that the water pressure in the system will be at the same level, or, on the contrary, you are absolutely sure that water will always be supplied to the tank with different pressure, then in such cases, when choosing elements for subsequent replacement, preference should be given to stabilizing valve models.

Such designs are equipped with a piston, which is a hollow mechanism equipped with a stabilizing chamber. It carries water into the stabilizing chamber, which allows the water pressure on both sides of the piston to be balanced.

Damage to the siphon membrane (photo No. 9) is also the reason why the toilet is leaking. If a toilet cistern with a button is leaking due to a similar problem, you will need to purchase a new membrane and replace it. In this case, the dimensions and shapes of the new element used for replacement must correspond to the parameters of the old one.

Such repairs are carried out in the following sequence.

Water is completely removed from the cistern.
The float lever is fixed to the crossbar.
The crossbar is installed instead of the lid, which allows you to stop the flow of water.
The nut used to secure the pipe, which allows waste to be flushed away, to the tank is disconnected.
The siphon nut located at the base of the cistern is loosened.
The siphon is carefully disconnected from the lever that allows you to flush the water, and then it sticks out.
The membrane is being replaced.
The entire structure is assembled in the same order as disassembly.

When replacing the membrane, you need to take into account the size, shape and dimensions of this element. If, in case of replacement, the siphon membrane has different dimensions from the original, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to eliminate the leak from the tank.

In addition to the reasons discussed above, there are other factors that explain why the toilet is leaking. At first glance they may seem insignificant, but in reality they are not. If there is even the slightest risk of water leaks, then you need to stop flushing the toilet, and then check for yourself the serviceability and correctness of the fasteners, float tubes, nuts and other important parts.

Constant exposure to water causes deformation of all these elements. Cracks, growths, and rotted areas may appear on parts. In this case, either a full repair is carried out, based on replacing the damaged parts with your own hands, or cleaning them from dirt and build-up. The video will tell you in detail about the principles of repairing a toilet and cistern.

Does the toilet leak after flushing?

The question of what to do if water is constantly flowing in the toilet is relevant for many apartment owners. This can happen because the toilet cistern is leaking. If you start flushing the toilet and, after flushing with the button, you discover that water is flowing from under the tank, then first of all you should check the serviceability of the flush device located inside the tank, and if there are problems, carry out repairs.

A likely cause of a leaking toilet tank is a loose shut-off valve that requires repair. The drain device is located in the central part of the tank, and to correct the leakage situation, you just need to lightly press the drain valve. If after this the water no longer flows, then the main cause of the malfunction was precisely the loose fit of the shut-off valve. And in this case, the repair will only consist of replacing the gasket on this valve.

Another reason that the drain tank is leaking is the displacement of the height regulator with the drain button. When the regulator is shifted, the valve is installed above the hole into which residual waste products should be flushed with water. Because of this, a gap appears between the drain hole located at the bottom of the tank and the shut-off valve itself.

In this situation, it is not possible to wash off the water in a controlled manner; the water flows in a constant flow and this, in turn, leads to serious excesses in the amount of water consumed. Carrying out repairs in this case is as easy as shelling pears. You just need to set the height regulator with the button to the previous position.

The reason that the toilet tank is leaking may be a poorly tightened nut on the outside of the bottom. When the toilet starts to flush, water seeps through this nut. The repair in this case consists of tightening the nut, as well as checking all the fasteners with which the flush tank is connected to the toilet.

Advice! If a serious breakdown occurs, then it is better not to waste time at all on repairing the tank. It will be easier to replace the repair by purchasing and installing new fastening parts. If the faults are not too large, then it will be possible to carry out repairs using silicone sealant, by replacing old gaskets and correcting the position of bolts and nuts with a regular wrench.

Is the toilet bowl leaking?

Situations when the toilet leaks from below occur quite rarely, and are associated primarily with breakdowns in the toilet bowl. The occurrence of such a problem is caused by improper fixation of the structure on the wall or floor. You can avoid such situations and unplanned repairs if you initially install the toilet correctly (photo No. 10).

In this case, special attention should be paid to the joints and joints of individual toilet elements (water supply and sewerage hoses).

Other causes of leakage

The breakdowns and malfunctions in the operation of the drain tank listed above may not be the only ones. Sometimes it happens that the cause cannot be discovered. In this case, you should take into account several more reasons that may interfere with the normal functioning of the toilet cistern. Some apartment owners have to face a problem when they start to wash away waste with water, but the flush button (photo No. 11) has a problem and does not work.

Note that if a situation occurs with the button on the tank, it falls inside. Because of this, water from the tank constantly flows into the toilet through the overflow. The true cause of the breakdown can be discovered and repairs can begin only after the lid of the drain tank has been removed and the entire drain mechanism has been thoroughly checked.

There are situations when the drain rod jumps out of its usual place, and together with the pressure shutter valve. It should be installed back. In case of such a breakdown, you should also check whether everything is in order with the button. This element can become clogged and must be thoroughly cleaned periodically by first removing it.

The presence of strong water pressure in the water supply can create a precedent when the pressure of this very water is incommensurate in its power with the weak valve of the float mechanism. Due to this problem, a loud noise occurs at the moment when water fills the tank reservoir. Actually, because of this, water flows from the tank into the toilet, moving through the overflow. The peculiarity of the repair in this option will be either replacing the valve with a new and more advanced model (which will withstand strong water pressure), or replacing the conventional valve mechanism with a stabilizing one. As an option, you can consider the process of modernizing the cistern (photo No. 12).

This is done as follows:

The drain tank cover is removed.
The diameter of the hole in the tube, which is the conductor for water into the tank from the water supply, is measured.
In accordance with the height of the drain tank, a plastic tube is selected, the diameter of the hole is similar to the conductor tube, with a length of 20-40 cm.
Both tubes are connected in such a way that the plastic one does not touch the bottom of the tank. If necessary, it is cut to the required size.

Such a device will serve as drainage for the water entering the tank, and if the water pressure is too high, it will simply suppress it, preventing it from exceeding the norm.

Water from the drain tank may drip due to the formation of condensation on the surface of the structure (photo No. 13).

In this case, you can carry out repairs yourself by eliminating the reasons that led to the formation of condensate drops. This is done like this:

The inlet and outlet fittings, which are components of the drainage mechanism, are being repaired. If the fittings are broken, then the water flows into the toilet, where it is heated to room temperature. At the same time, cold water constantly flows from the water supply.
Rinse off with less water than usual. If the toilet is used frequently, then this approach avoids the formation of condensation on the tank. If the drain mechanism is a device with a button, then it should be replaced with a more economical double design or a device with half flush.
The reason for the accumulation of condensate water on the tank may be an excessive level of humidity in the bathroom. To fix the problem, you need to get rid of all devices that affect the level of humidity in the room.

If a toilet or cistern is leaking in your apartment, then the situation can only be corrected by proper repairs, done with your own hands or with the help of an experienced craftsman. The advice of experienced experts will tell you about the order in which repairs should be carried out and how to eliminate a leak in the toilet cistern.

Disconnect the water supply.
Unscrew the plastic clip.
Dismantle the system through which water is supplied.
Remove the old drain mechanism and replace it with a new one. The sequence of actions in this case is as follows:

Remove the tank fasteners.
Dismantle the drain element itself.
A rubber seal remains where the flush tank is attached to the toilet. It needs to be removed.
Next, the plastic clamp is unscrewed and the entire old drain is completely removed.

A rubber seal is put on the new drain mechanism, purchased at a plumbing store.
The entire structure is installed inside the tank and secured with a special plastic nut.
Next, a rubber seal is installed (photo No. 14).

New fasteners secure the tank in its place.
The water level in the tank is adjusted in height, and at the very end the flush button or lever is installed (photo No. 15).

Readers can see more details about the principles of repairing a toilet that is leaking in this video:

If water is constantly flowing in the toilet, there is little joy in this. The noise makes it difficult to sleep at night, rust is inevitable on the toilet, and condensation on the pipes.

And this is reflected in the water meter readings in the most unpleasant way. So we’ll figure out why water is flowing in the toilet and what you can do about it yourself.

Reason 1

Mechanism

The tank simply overflows. Excess water drains through the overflow.

In turn, this phenomenon may have several reasons:

Valve gasket deformation. Over time, rubber loses its elasticity and ceases to tightly block water.
Insufficient gasket pressing force. It is normal, it just weakly presses against the valve outlet.
Rusted or frayed stud which holds the float lever in the valve body.
Hull crack valve inside the tank.

Please note: if the tank has a brass valve, the last assumption is rejected. Cracks are a sad fate of plastics.

Solution

If water is continuously flowing from the toilet tank, start with a simple experiment:

Remove the cover;
Raise the float a centimeter. If the leak stops, and very little effort is required, our search is over. You just need to slightly bend the float lever so that it shuts off the water earlier.
If the leak does not stop, inspect the valve itself. Make sure the pin that secures the float arm to the valve is in place and intact. At the same time, check whether the hole in which it is held is worn out.

If the pin is broken, replace it with a piece of thick copper wire. If the pin just dangles freely in a hole that has worn through to enormous sizes, you will have to go to the store for a new valve.

Don't forget to take your old one with you as a sample. There are too many of them on the market for the seller to understand your complex pantomime and sell what you need.

Finally, if water flows from the toilet tank, its source is the valve and the flow does not stop, despite the gasket being clearly pressed to the valve hole, we again have to go to the store.
Valve gaskets are not sold separately, so the question of whether the gasket is to blame or a crack in the valve body becomes irrelevant.

Please note that we are only looking at the traditional valve and reservoir design that has been in use for the last thirty to forty years. It is simply impossible to consider the design of all types of fittings and their typical problems within the framework of the article.

In addition, new designs appear continuously. In the case of newer types of fittings, you have to figure out why water is flowing in the toilet individually each time, starting with getting to know the principle of operation of the tank and its filling.

Reason 2

Mechanism

Why does water flow from the toilet when the water level in the tank does not reach the overflow?

A typical cause is a rusted steel or broken plastic bolt that holds the toilet and shelf together. In addition, in older designs with a brass seat under the bulb there was another pair of bolts.

They fixed the saddle and the gasket underneath it at the bottom of the tank. The guide for the pear rod was secured with the same pair of bolts.

The destruction of these bolts was inevitable, like the collapse of capitalism. They could only hold out more or less time until the moment when they were eaten up by rust.

How to characterize the people who completed brass cold water fittings with steel bolts? With children, it’s better, I think, nothing.

Solution

First, make sure that the water in the toilet flows until it reaches the overflow level.

Then carefully inspect the fittings. In that rare case, if it is in perfect condition, it is enough to replace a couple of bolts. More often than not, it will be a good idea to simply buy a new set of fittings, since it is very inexpensive.

When choosing new fittings, pay attention to the bolts. The truth is in brass. Steel is evil

In any case, we have to completely disassemble and reassemble the tank:

Turn off the water to the tank;
Rinse until the tank is empty;
Disconnect the flexible line from the tank;
Unscrew the bolts that secure the shelf to the toilet. If they are rusty, cut them off with a turbine or hacksaw. Buying a couple of bolts is much better than splitting the toilet when disassembling with great effort;
Having pushed the tank back, pull out the shelf from the cuff connecting it to the toilet;
Drain off any remaining water and place the plumbing fixture to be operated on a flat surface.

We do not touch the valve with the float. We disassemble everything else carefully, without much effort, using adjustable wrenches, open-end wrenches or a pair of pliers. If the bolts are completely rusted, cut them off with a turbine or a hacksaw blade.

Then we repeat all operations in reverse order. Carefully assemble the tank with new bolts (strictly brass) or new fittings. It is highly advisable to replace rubber gaskets even if the fittings remain old.

Rubber loses its elasticity over time. As a last resort, use silicone sealant.

Advice: when you tighten the bolts, avoid the slightest distortion and great force. It is very easy to crush earthenware. Also, be sure to remove any rust or limescale from the areas where the gaskets will go.

We roll the rubber cuff on the toilet towards it and straighten it, putting the shelf on the outlet when the tank and shelf are secured with plastic bolts. Be prepared to tighten the cuff with thick copper wire or an aluminum tie if necessary.

It also loses its elasticity over time and may leak after assembly.

Reason 3

Why does water flow in the toilet if the water level is far from overflow and all the bolts are intact and in place?

Mechanism

A rubber bulb prevents water from flowing from the tank into the toilet. When you lift the rod by the handle, the pear rises and then sits in place.

As already mentioned, rubber loses its elasticity over time. The pear becomes hard and no longer takes the shape of the saddle, as a result, water leaks in the toilet.

Solution

In this case, replacing the pear would be ideal. It is attached to the stem with a thread and unscrews counterclockwise (of course, when you look at the bulb from above, the direction changes to the opposite.

In the store, be sure to choose a new pear from several. You need the softest one offered, otherwise you will again encounter the same problem.

A temporary solution can be simply a weight hung on the rod and pressing the pear to the saddle. It can be any heavy nut.

Conclusion

As already written, the article does not pretend to fully cover all possible problems with all types of fittings. A lot of them. So many. In each specific case, it is necessary to find out why water flows from the toilet individually. If you can’t solve the problem yourself and don’t know, just invite a professional.

You hardly pay attention to the plumbing if it works smoothly. But you become wary if the toilet starts to leak or make unusual sounds. And there is every reason for this, because a leaking toilet is a serious thing, it can cause a lot of trouble not only for you, but also for the neighbors below. To avoid having to explain yourself about flooding, you need to regularly check the functionality of your plumbing. And if a leak does occur, then you need to act immediately before it leads to serious consequences.

Condensation can form because the water and air in the room have different temperatures or because the drain tank has failed.

Sometimes condensation appears At once after installing the toilet and this is eloquent evidence of the low quality of the product. So let's look at a few examples that can help you understand the cause of the problem.

It happens that the water does not drain from the tank for two to three hours, which is why it heats up to the air temperature. In this case, the condensation disappears, but provided that the tank is working normally.
Sometimes the hood is to blame, but then there must be condensation on the pipeline. Examine it.

The condensation problem can be solved in one of the following ways:

reduce the frequency of draining the tank;
reduce humidity in the house;
raise the temperature of the water entering the cistern.
change the tank itself, but only if you are firmly convinced that it is faulty.

Video - What to do if the drain tank is leaking?

As you can see, the reasons for a toilet leak can be very diverse, so each individual case requires an individual approach. If you encounter something new, then do not be afraid. It often only takes a few minutes to detect the problem. As a last resort, you can always contact a specialist - a plumber. And the last thing: regularly check that the drainage and water supply are working properly– timely detection of malfunctions will save you from many problems related not only to money.

The cuff under the shelf is the weak point of the toilet

"Tool" for universal repair