Although the rabbit can hardly be called an exotic animal for Russia, in the meat and meat products market, rabbit meat makes up only a small percentage of the total mass. Most farmers do not want to get involved with these farm animals because it is believed that rabbits die like flies at the slightest provocation. However, in fact, all problems stem from improper living conditions and errors in the formation of the diet. By choosing the right feed and building a modern, high-quality rabbitry, you can successfully develop your rabbit business.
Before you build a rabbitry
Any construction begins not with drawings and cost estimates, but with defining the goals and objectives for which the structure is being built. In our case, we first need to give clear answers to the following questions:
- How many animals will be kept at one time? There is a fundamental difference between a farm for a dozen animals and a farm for 200 rabbits.
- Where exactly are the cages planned to be placed - on the street; under a light canopy that barely protects from the sun, rain and wind; or in a warm barn?
- Will automatic water and food supply and waste disposal systems be introduced?
- Should cages be portable or stationary?
Only by answering these three questions can you begin to design and begin building a rabbitry. Now we know whether we can get by with three hastily assembled portable cages, or whether we need to build a whole rabbit town, which will be served by semi-automatic mechanisms or living people.
By the way, if you plan to breed rabbits in large quantities and sell the resulting products, you will also have to coordinate the construction with government services.
Place for a rabbitry
There are no particularly strict requirements regarding where on the site to place the rabbitry. The main thing is to adhere to the self-evident rules, ignoring which will inevitably lead to the loss of livestock.
Firstly, to build a rabbitry you need to choose a dry place. Wetlands or frequently flooded areas are not suitable. Excess moisture will not only accelerate the corrosion of building materials, but will also create an unhealthy microclimate around the rabbitry. As a result, the cells will wear out faster, and the mortality rate among animals will be high.
Secondly, try to place the cells with their “backs” to the windiest direction (usually north). Rabbits do not like drafts or wind, so it is better to protect them as much as possible from these natural phenomena. If possible, there should be dense trees or shrubs around the rabbitry that can soften strong winds.
Thirdly, the rabbitry should not be exposed to direct sunlight all day. In winter it may not be bad, but in summer the cages will be a real oven. Especially in the southern regions. If it so happens that you have got a completely “bald” area without trees that could cast a shadow on the cages, then either build a rabbitry indoors, or erect at least a light canopy over them (you can even just use spruce branches or brushwood), which would save from the scorching sun.
And again, we remind you that if you plan to raise rabbits for sale, you will have to build a rabbitry taking into account existing official building codes for such structures.
Ready-made Mikhailov rabbitries
Thanks to the Internet, the general public has become aware of two of the most successful designs of rabbit hutches, which are now used by many professional farmers. We are talking about rabbitries according to the schemes of Mikhailov and Zolotukhin.
Mikhailov's rabbit hutches are a two- or three-tier structure, where the upper tiers are occupied by residential sections, and on the lower tier there is a sealed manure collector. There are several models of these cages (for young animals for fattening, for pregnant rabbits and rabbits with rabbits, for adult males), but they are all united by a common idea - the presence of a built-in sealed container common to all sections of the cage, where manure accumulates.
The rabbit hutches of this design have a solid back wall, while the other three are mesh. The unit also has a built-in ventilation system, heating of drinking bowls and queen cells.
Another key feature that modern Mikhailov rabbitries are famous for is the maximum automation of all processes. Manure is removed from the cage and accumulates in the container on its own. In this case, the smell does not penetrate into the living compartment. The cages are also equipped with self-feeders and automatic drinkers. That is, you really only need to maintain the cage once a week - remove manure from the storage tank, pour food into the feeder and change the water canister.
The disadvantage of Mikhailov cells is that they need to be bought (and for a lot of money), since you can’t make them yourself. At best, this will be a simplified copy. This will be a good quality cage, but you will not achieve the results that can be achieved with a real rabbitry with a homemade one. In addition, raising rabbits in cages designed by Mikhailov also requires a special method.
General design and diagram of the rabbitry
Zolotukhin's rabbitry is a simpler design that you can successfully assemble yourself. Most farmers who make their own cages mainly use this design, making changes to it to suit their needs.
The Zolotukhin rabbitry also has a self-removal system for waste, which consists of a special floor design. Instead of the usual horizontal arrangement, flat slate or plywood is laid at an angle so that feces and urine roll under the back wall. There is a gap of 15-20 cm between the floor and the wall, covered with a metal mesh.
Living compartments can be arranged in two or three tiers, but for the automatic waste removal system to work, each subsequent tier must be moved back relative to the bottom by the width of the mesh at the rear.
In its standard form, the cage has two living compartments on each tier, but that’s what makes Zolotukhin’s design so good: by making a rabbitry with your own hands, you can easily make modifications to the original design. If desired, you can mount a long cage with a dozen compartments on each tier. True, then they can no longer be moved from place to place if necessary.
The back and side walls of the rabbitry are made blank to minimize heat loss. The roof is a regular pitched one for the street or flat when placed under a canopy (or indoors).
The dimensions of the rabbitry are:
- width - 1 meter per residential section;
- height - 0.5 meters per section plus 30-40 cm between the floor/ground and the lower tier;
- depth - at least 70 cm for the compartments of the lower tier (the upper ones are deeper due to the extension of the rear wall);
- floor slope - 10-15 degrees;
- The width of the mesh at the back wall is 15-20 cm.
The proportions of the door and mesh window on the front side of the cage are chosen at your discretion.
Feeders, drinkers and other small items
Before making a rabbitry, consider a feed and water supply system. Since rabbits require both grass/hay and grain feed, the cage needs to have both types of feeders.
The feeder for bulk food according to the Zolotukhin method is mounted directly into the cage door so that 1/3 of the total volume of the container is inside. It is proposed to make the feeder in the form of a tray or hopper with edges of unequal height: the side with the lower edge should be inside the cage, and the side with the high edge should be outside. The sizes of the feeder are selected individually, but the general recommendations are as follows:
- high edge - 15-20 cm;
- low edge - 5-7 cm;
- width - 5-10 cm;
- length - slightly less than the door itself.
The bunker for hay and grass is made according to exactly the same principle, only it is placed on the “window” and has a much larger size. There is also a difference in the materials used. Obviously, for bulk feed you need solid material - wood, tin, plexiglass, etc. But the hay barn is made from rabbit mesh.
To supply water, of course, it is better to use a nipple system, but for this you will have to spend money on purchasing it. To save money, you can construct a primitive cup drinker from scrap materials. However, it is important that the design of such a drinking bowl meets three requirements - it is minimally exposed to contamination, is easy to clean, and is not tipped over by the rabbit itself.
It should also be noted that in Zolotukhin’s cells there is no stationary queen cell. The female rabbit is simply placed in a wider compartment, in which a portable house-hole is placed in the winter (it must be securely fixed in the cage), and in the summer a large armful of hay is placed, where the female makes a nest. In this way, natural conditions for animals are simulated.
Materials for rabbitry
When constructing cages, you can use any available materials, but wood is best suited. It is environmentally friendly, readily available and easy to process.
The cage frame can be constructed from wooden beams or metal corners. The walls and floor of the rabbitry are made of boards or plywood. The outside can be sheathed with tin, but the inside must be wood. Zolotukhin does not recommend making mesh floors, since, according to him, rabbits suffer a lot when they are forced to move on a mesh floor. Use the mesh only at the back wall, where feces and urine roll off.
The roof is made either from the same boards or plywood, or from ordinary slate. The front of the cage has a large window and door. If the door is made of boards or plexiglass, then the “window” itself is made of mesh. Material for making feeders and drinkers - depending on the circumstances.
By the way, it is better to make the floors removable so that they can be removed and washed periodically. Of course, for this, the front section or roof must also be removable so that the floor itself can be removed.
How to build a rabbit cage yourself? This question usually arises among beginners who decide to start rabbit farming. Experienced farmers usually develop designs that are convenient for themselves, making it easier to care for animals.
Cells can have different structures and be made from a variety of materials. They are made completely simple or additionally equipped with “conveniences”, such as running water or heating. In the construction of the cage, much will depend on the planned number of rabbits, their breed and size, on the availability of retreat materials and on the place where it will be installed, on the desire and ability to equip it with various devices, as well as on the ability to work with carpentry and plumbing tools.
Cell placement
Rabbit cages can be located in utility rooms, such as, for example, or directly on the street. Therefore, they can be divided into three types according to their location and the method of breeding rabbits:
- Year-round outdoor placement of cages, when animals are constantly outdoors.
- Keeping pets indoors all year round.
- A combined breeding option, that is, in winter the rabbits are kept indoors, and with the onset of warm weather they are transferred outside.
Experienced rabbit breeders believe that the most optimal way to breed these animals is to keep them outdoors all year round, as this promotes the development of immunity to various diseases and the formation of healthy, high-quality hair. In addition, when raising rabbits outdoors, the productivity of females significantly improves, which increases the number of rabbits in the litter and their endurance.
Street cages
Rabbit cages are most often installed outdoors if you plan to breed a large number of animals - a hundred or more animals.
The convenience of setting up rabbit hutches in outdoor conditions lies in the availability of more space and the ease of caring for your “menagerie”, since each of the cages needs periodic cleaning.
Rabbit cage
To build outdoor cages, fairly durable materials are used, since the structure must be reliable and stable - these qualities will help protect rabbits from adverse natural factors, as well as from the penetration of predatory animals - dogs, foxes, cats or rats - into the cages.
It is advisable that the building be located under a large front canopy so that any precipitation, as well as direct sunlight, do not bother the pets too much.
If the rabbits will be outside all year round, then it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. These animals tolerate low winter temperatures well, but it would still be a good idea to create comfortable conditions for them and a special place where they can bask on especially cold days and nights.
Cages placed indoors
Cages placed in non-ventilated areas can be made entirely of metal mesh attached to a wooden frame and have a wooden lattice floor. If breeding pets is carried out indoors, it is important to think carefully about the convenient disposal of their waste.
Combined rabbit breeding option
In another case, if funds and space allow, cages are built in two places - both on the street and in a barn. This method of farming is unlikely to be suitable for those farmers who raise a large number of pets, since installing winter and summer cages will require a fairly large area.
Cell design and size
Rabbit cages can be single-tiered or multi-tiered. In addition, their design may vary depending on the main purpose - for breeding, for raising young animals or for keeping adult pets.
Single-tier and multi-tier structures
Cells can be single-tiered or multi-tiered, but they are arranged in no more than three tiers.
- Single-tier cells
Single-tier buildings are raised above the ground by 700÷800 mm and covered with a roof made of or metal sheets. If this type of building will be located on the street, then it is better to choose a slate roof, since the metal heats up quickly, and rabbits do not tolerate extreme heat very well.
To collect and dispose of animal waste, a metal tray made in the form of a drain is often installed in a single-tier cage for the convenience of its regular cleaning.
- Multi-tiered cells
More often, multi-tiered cages are practiced, which can have two or three tiers, and on each of which a different number of sections are placed. Such structures are most often made of bars, boards and galvanized mesh, and are used for breeding rabbits, both outdoors and indoors.
Such cage designs are called sheds - in them, tiers with sections are located one above the other, which helps to significantly save space.
A two-tier design is considered the best option, as it will allow for comfortable care and monitoring of pets.
It is recommended to raise the shad above the ground by 500÷600 mm when installed indoors, and by 700÷750 mm when installed outdoors. This cage is considered the best for keeping rabbits, so it is used most often.
When building multi-tiered cages, there must be a space of at least 150 mm high between each of the tiers. A sloping metal roof is installed over the cages. In the space between the tiers and under the lower tier, inclined tides are fixed. They are necessary so that rabbit waste does not fall into the lower cages and does not linger on the lower roof, but flows to the ground or into a common or separate drain for each tier located at the back of the structure. At each of these ebbs, sides are bent on the sides to prevent waste from falling beyond this plane.
Some owners prefer to use removable plastic trays, which are mounted on skids under the slatted floor and can be removed for cleaning and rinsing.
Another option is for the trays to be installed directly in the cages. In addition, sometimes cages are made with a solid floor. Both of the latter options are probably still not very convenient, since the bedding in the cages will have to be changed quite often - once every two to three days.
Cages for breeding
In cages intended for breeding, special chambers are installed on the sides, or space is provided for installing a mobile queen cell. In a design with a stationary compartment, the walls, removable floor and ceiling are made solid, since it must be well insulated and not blown through by drafts, otherwise the rabbits will die.
The floor in the rest of the cage, where the food section is located, is made of wooden blocks or metal mesh.
The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with a round hole for entry. The box should also have an additional side door to allow it to be cleaned and dried.
breeding cages
A mobile queen cell is convenient because it can be rearranged, if necessary, into different cells, and it is also easier to clean and change bedding.
This chamber is insulated with dry, mold-free hay or shavings. It is not recommended to use small sawdust, as they can get into the respiratory tract of the rabbits, and they will die.
If breeding is carried out in winter, then a few days before it, it is recommended to place an electric heating pad in the queen cell to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit.
During the cold season, it is often impossible to do without heating the uterine tract, so instead of a heating pad, you can also use a regular light bulb, which is kept constantly on during this period. It is placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber. Having chosen this heating option, it is necessary to take care of fire safety, so the chamber where the lamp will be located must be sheathed with a thin metal sheet.
Another way to heat this part of the cage is, which is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it. When using this option, it is imperative to ensure that the cable located in the cage is solid, without splicing. This system, installed in accordance with all the rules, allows you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment depending on the temperature outside - it can be connected to a thermostatic regulator.
For cages located indoors in barns, it is best to make queen cells mobile so that they can be taken outside for thorough cleaning, ventilation and drying in the sun. If a built-in uterine chamber is planned, then the floor must be removable.
Each section of cells of this type usually has a length of 1000÷1200 mm, a depth of 550÷650 mm, a height on the front side of 550÷600 mm and 400÷450 mm on the rear wall. The built-in uterine chamber is made 350÷400 mm wide.
Cages for young animals
Cages for young animals should be designed to accommodate 8÷20 rabbits at a time, aged from three to five months. A group cage is made with an area of approximately 0.25 - 0.3 m² per pet, with a wall height of at least 350 mm.
If the cages are made multi-tiered and installed on the street, then they must be raised above the ground by at least 700÷750 mm.
In cages for young animals, the warm nesting compartment should also be well insulated for the winter, in approximately the same way as for newborn rabbits. For insulation, hay or straw is used, laid 15÷20 mm thick. You should not choose artificial materials for insulation, as they have a bad effect on the development and growth of babies of all breeds of rabbits.
Cage for adult rabbits
For adult rabbits of medium-sized breeds, cages are made with sections 600÷700 mm deep, a front height of 600 mm and a length of 1000 mm - these are the minimum dimensions for the comfortable development of an adult animal. The same block design is used for these cells; each block contains two cells separated by a wall.
It is also necessary to provide for the union of these cells into one, for example, for the mating period - for this, the partition between them is made removable. It is recommended to make the floor in cages for adults from galvanized mesh.
It is very important to take into account that pets must move freely inside the cages, since their growth and development will depend on this.
Cage with aviary for walking
This cage design is well suited for keeping young animals or for rabbits of reproductive age. The cage consists of two compartments - an area completely enclosed by walls and a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or rectangular entrance cut into the rear wall of the cage with solid surfaces. Rabbits in such cages have the opportunity to move freely and safely, which is beneficial for their development and growth.
The dimensions of such structures may vary, but usually the depth of a closed cage is 600÷650 mm, and the depth of the enclosure is 800÷1000 mm. Most often, a regular single-tier block is built, consisting of two separate cages, and then, if there is space behind it, a mesh enclosure is attached to it.
Cages for giant rabbits
Large rabbits of the “giant” meat-skin breed require a special approach, since not standard cages are built for them, but those with more significant parameters. Individuals of this breed grow to sizes from 550 to 650 mm in length, and their weight ranges from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. These numbers must be used as a starting point when drawing up a construction design drawing.
For one adult “giant” rabbit, you will need a cage measuring at least 960 mm in length, 700 mm in depth and 600÷700 mm in height.
For young animals of this breed, in one litter of which there are on average eight rabbits, you will need a cage of 1.2 m², at least 400 mm high.
Since “giant” rabbits have quite a lot of weight, the floor of the cage should be reinforced - it is also covered with galvanized mesh, but made of thicker wire, for example, 2÷2.2 mm. In addition, to prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animal, when making the floor, you must first secure bars measuring 30×30 mm, laid at a distance of 35÷40 mm from each other, and then lay and secure a metal mesh on top of them.
Some farmers put a solid floor in their cages, but in this case, the best option would be to install plastic or rubber trays in them. If you choose this option for arranging the cage, then you will have to clean it of waste daily or once every two days.
metal aviary
California rabbit cage
This breed of rabbits (a hybrid of the New Zealand breed, the Soviet chinchilla and the Russian ermine) is quite popular due to its ease of care and resistance to negative winter temperatures. In size, adult individuals of the Californian breed are smaller than “giants” and their length is 450÷500 mm, but their weight sometimes reaches up to 4.5÷5 kg. The cage for these rabbits should be approximately 0.4÷0.5 m² in size. The paws of pets of this breed are covered with coarse hair, so they will be quite comfortable in cages with mesh or slatted floors.
When California rabbits are raised exclusively for meat, they are often kept in a pit measuring 2000x2000 and 1000 mm deep. The walls of the pit are reinforced with slate, a plank or mesh floor is laid on the floors, a low fence is installed around the pit and a roof is built.
An earthen niche is made in one of the walls of the pit, which is not reinforced in any way. It is necessary to create conditions close to the natural habitat of these animals. Rabbits will happily dig holes in the ground, and with proper care they will reproduce well and raise young on their own.
Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages
To make caring for your pets easier, it is worth considering a convenient supply of food and water for them. There are many different designs, both feeders and drinkers. They can be purchased ready-made or even made yourself.
Drinking bowls
Rabbits need a lot of clean water, and if you pour it into a bowl that is not fixed at a certain height, then various debris will fall into it, or, even worse, the rabbit, stepping on it with its paw, will simply knock it over and spill the water.
It is very important to decide on the choice of material from which the drinkers will be made. For example, if you install products made of thin plastic, they will not last for a long time, as rabbits will chew them. In metal cans, water will quickly become dirty and cloudy. Therefore, experienced rabbit breeders have developed several simple designs that allow them to constantly provide the animals with the necessary amount of water.
Automatic drinkers
This type of drinker is often used both on large farms and in small households. The design of this drinking bowl consists of a bowl connected to a container filled with water. Moreover, the bowl is in the cage, and the container is located outside, so it is easy to replenish it with new supplies of fresh water.
The principle of operation of such devices is quite simple - as the water decreases from the bowl, a new portion of liquid will flow into it from the container. In this case, the float system is triggered - there is little water left in the bowl, so the valve installed in the container opens and the drinking bowl is replenished with water. It is quite difficult to make such a drinking bowl yourself, but it can be purchased ready-made.
Nipple drinkers
The nipple type of drinker is convenient and practical, since in this case the animals cannot spill the water - it remains in the tube until the rabbit begins to drink, performing sucking movements.
The disadvantage of this water delivery system is that at low temperatures the water in the container and in the tubes quickly freezes, so this drinker can only be used in the warm season.
Vacuum drinker
There are several ways to make a drinking bowl from a regular plastic bottle, and they should be considered, so the manufacturing process can be carried out independently.
The operating principle of this design is based on the laws of physics, and to make it, you need to proceed as follows:
- A bowl with a flat bottom, sides approximately 50 mm high and an elongated shape is fixed to the cage at a height of 100 mm from the floor, so that half of it is inside the cage and the other remains outside.
- A regular plastic bottle of two or one and a half liters is filled with water. The bottle is then closed with a cap or even a piece of paper, which is pressed firmly to the neck. Next, the container is quickly turned upside down and placed in a bowl. The neck should not reach the bottom 2÷3 mm. The bottle is then secured to the cage using wire or clamps.
- The lid is carefully unscrewed (if paper was used, it is simply pulled out), and the bowl is filled with water by about ⅔. As your pets drink water, water will flow from the bottle into the bowl, filling it to its previous level.
Throttle drinker
This drinker works on the principle of a conventional hand washbasin, that is, when you press the throttle installed together with the valve in the bottle cap, water begins to flow down the throttle through the resulting hole.
The hole in the cover should not be large, but the throttle should move up and down easily in it. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve, which holds the throttle well and covers the hole in the bottle cap in a calm state.
The bottle with this device is fixed vertically on the cage, at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor.
Hanging drinker
This is a very simple version of a drinking bowl, made from a plastic bottle; it is suspended on wire holders at a height of 250÷300 mm from the floor. To make such a drinker, a cutout is made in the side of the bottle, 100÷120 mm wide and almost the entire length of the bottle, 50÷60 mm away from the lid and bottom.
The drinking bowl is fixed on the outside of the cage so that the hole cut in the bottle is turned inward. In the cage at this level, part of the mesh wall is also cut out so that the rabbits can easily reach the water. Such a drinking bowl will have to be replenished with water quite often, but it is extremely simple to manufacture.
Feeders
It is advisable to plan the feeders at the stage of drawing up the drawing of the entire structure. Feed supply devices can be of three types:
- Senniki are most often located between two adjacent cells and have a V-shape. They are made together with the structure of the cell itself - they, in fact, are its integral part. Fresh grass or dry hay is placed in these feeders, and the rabbits pull it out through the lattice walls.
- Feeder for filling feed. This product is necessary for rabbits to enrich their body with minerals and vitamins, which contributes to the rapid growth of animals. This food is especially important in winter, when there is no grass, fresh vegetables and fruits.
Feeders for feed can be made of metal sheet used for laying sewers or other materials. An important condition that must be met for the effective operation of this device is the correct and reliable fastening of the container to the cell wall. The principle of operation of such a device is that food independently enters a bowl located in the cage from a container fixed outside it, as it decreases.
- A device for vegetables, fruits, tops and other fresh shredded products can be made of any material. It is made spacious and easy to clean. The feeder must be kept clean, otherwise harmful insects may grow in and around it, which can cause various diseases in animals.
Making your own multi-tiered cage
Before purchasing materials, it is recommended to draw up an accurate drawing of a cage or multi-tiered complex. It is necessary to foresee the location of feeders and drinkers on the plan, especially in cases where they will be built into the overall structure.
In this case, a step-by-step description of the manufacture of a three-tier cage with a width of 1400 mm, a height of 1900 mm and a depth of 600 mm is presented.
For work you will need the following materials:
| Name of materials or components | Size, mm | Quantity |
|---|---|---|
| Board | 100×30 | 10 m |
| timber | 50×30 | 27 m |
| Plywood 15 mm | Standard | 1÷2 sheets |
| Metal grid | Wire 0.7 mm, mesh 25×25 mm | 8 m² |
| Metal galvanized sheet | Thickness 0.6÷0.9 mm | 3 m² |
| Self-tapping screws | 50 | 300÷500 pcs. |
| Nails | 60÷70 | 100 pieces. |
| Latch locks for queen cells | Standard | 6 pcs. |
| Hinges for securing the hinged doors of the queen cell. | 12 pcs. |
The table below describes the cage installation process step by step:
| Illustration | Brief description of the operation performed |
|---|---|
 | From the purchased boards it is necessary to make parts for mounting the frame: - 100×30×2250 mm – 4 pcs.; - 50×30×1340 mm – 12 pcs.; - 50×30×540 mm – 12 pcs.; - 25×30×540 mm – 72 pcs. |
 | Six identical frame frames measuring 1340x600 mm are assembled from prepared lumber. |
 | Making frames is easy. First, one is assembled with precise dimensions and squareness, and then it is used as a template for making the rest. To assemble each frame, you will need two beams measuring 50x30x540 mm and two beams measuring 50x30x1340 mm. Smaller bars are secured between two long ones using two self-tapping screws at each connection |
 | The result of installation should be six neat, even frames of the same size. |
 | The next step is to position the frames and fix them on boards measuring 100x30x2250 mm, laid at a distance of the width of the frame. The distance between the frames forming the frame and the floor of the cage of each tier should be 400 mm. The space left between tiers is 180 mm. The first tier should be raised 400 mm above the ground. The frames are secured with two self-tapping screws, screwed in along the diagonal intersection line at the joints of the frame frame and side boards. |
 | The next step is to fasten the frames along the top edge with two boards laid parallel to the bottom ones. It is important here to ensure that the frames are perfectly vertical. To check their verticality, a building level is used. |
 | Next, the blocks for installation of the grated floor are prepared. Their size should be 25x30x540 mm. |
 | The distance between the sheathing bars should be 15÷20 mm (lightwise). They are installed inside the frame frame, and through it, on the side, secured with self-tapping screws on both sides. |
 | The floor of the cells on all three tiers is lined in exactly the same way. If it is planned to make a queen cell on one of the tiers, where breeding occurs, and where the rabbits will be kept until a certain age, then in this place the floor of the cage should be solid and removable. The arrangement of the queen cell was described above. |
 | Will each of the tiers be divided into two separate cells? between which a hay box is mounted in the shape of the Latin letter V. Hay or grass for rabbits will be placed here. The sennik is formed from four bars, which are installed on both sides of the frame. The size of the hay is 150÷200 mm in the upper part, and 6÷8 mm in the lower part. Naturally, it is necessary to achieve a clear correspondence in the location of the inclined crossbars on both sides of the frame. |
 | To ensure that the doors have the correct rectangular shape, the hay can be made from boards, cutting off one of their sides at a certain angle and connecting them at the bottom from the inside of the cage. Thus, the outer edge of the hay barn will be smooth and will act as a wall to which the door will adjoin. In addition, the front parts of the hay barn can be cut from plywood 15 mm thick. |
 | The frame of the hay barn is sheathed inside along installed bars (or cutouts made at an angle in boards or plywood) with a mesh of 0.7 mm wire having cells of 25 × 25 mm. |
 | If you plan to make a queen cell in the cage, then it is separated from the cage by a plywood or plank wall with a small entrance. To make it easier to attach this wall, additional bars are mounted into the structure, to which the plywood jumper will be attached. |
 | The entrance to the wall can be round or semicircular, but it must be located at a height of 100–120 mm from the floor of the cage - this distance must be maintained so that the rabbits cannot get into the large cage until they can overcome this height on their own. The width of the entrance to the queen cell should be approximately 150 mm. After the hole is cut, it must be cleaned with sandpaper, since its edges must be absolutely smooth. |
 | The width of the queen cell is usually 300÷350 mm. The jumper wall is fixed to the bars, then the same wall is mounted on the outside of the cage, and then the roof panel is fixed. If in the main space of the cage the roof can be covered with a metal mesh, then in the queen cell it should be continuous. Lastly, a bottom made of plywood is placed in the queen cell compartment. However, it should not be secured to the lower bars with self-tapping screws, since after the rabbits grow up and are moved to other, more spacious cages, the bottom part is removed from the uterine chamber, washed, dried and put in place for the next birth. |
 | The final stage in the installation of the queen cell is the installation of a hinged external door on it across the entire width of the chamber. At the bottom, the door is secured to the beam with two metal hinges. |
 | A latch lock or latch is installed in the middle of the upper part of the door panel. |
 | Next, the cage door frame is made from 30x30 mm bars. It is made according to the size of the opening formed in the cell wall. The door frame bars are fastened together at the corners with two self-tapping screws. |
 | The illustration shows the finished door frame before it is covered with metal mesh. |
 | The mesh is fixed to the frame using staples and a stapler - such fixation will be quite sufficient. |
 | A door with a mesh installed on the inside looks like this. |
 | Hinges on mesh doors can be mounted at the bottom (in which case the door will be hinged), or on one side of the opening (in which case it will be hinged). It all depends on ease of use in specific conditions. |
 | If the cages will be installed under a roof, for example, in a barn or other indoor utility room, then the walls and roof of the cages can also be lined with mesh. When installing the structure outdoors, the side and rear walls and roof must be covered with plywood or boards |
 | It is very important to make the correct tides under each tier of cages so that animal waste from the upper cages does not fall into the lower ones. To make ebbs, a metal sheet is used, on which the edges are folded on the sides - these sides should have a height of 80÷100 mm. The ebbs are attached to the front lower part of the frame under the cage, and its other edge is laid on the rear wall of the lower cage and extends beyond it by 300÷350 mm. Thus, the ebb tides are tilted and they protrude back beyond the structure so that they do not interfere with the approach to the rabbitry from the front side. |
 | The result should be something like this cell. In terms of complexity, this design option can be called the simplest and most accessible even for beginners. |
If you understand the principles of constructing cages for rabbits, then when drawing up a drawing, if desired, you can make your own adjustments. But it is still necessary to always keep in mind that any adult rabbit requires at least 0.5 m² of living space. It’s even better to adhere to the recommended section sizes, about 1000 mm in length, 600÷ 700 in depth, and from 400 to 600 mm in height.
And at the end of the article, there is a video in which the rabbit breeder shares the secrets of the design of improved cages:
Video: an interesting version of cages for rabbits
Among various domestic animals, rabbits occupy a special place. Their maintenance is quite profitable: the owner receives meat and fur, but gives away very little. To make a good profit from rabbits, you will need to follow some maintenance standards. And although a lot depends on nutrition and care, first of all you need to think about the cells.
If for cows, chickens or goats it is enough to have a simple barn, then for rabbits it is worth taking care of special conditions. The optimal solution on the issue of price - quality - make your own rabbit cage. This is not only cheaper, but you can take into account all the characteristics of the breed being bred and the location. What material is suitable for this and what points should be taken into account, we will talk about this in the article and present photos and drawings of some cages for rabbits.
Where to place the cells
When choosing a place to breed domestic rabbits and place their cage, it is important to avoid wind and drafts.
But it doesn’t matter at all whether the cage is outdoors or indoors.
In addition to weather conditions, the number and size of the rabbit cage are taken into account.
With normal breeding, one cell will not be enough. You will need a room for pregnant rabbits, their babies and males, and this is a whole residential complex.
Dimensions - the dimensions of finished rabbit cages largely depend on the breed of pets, but there are minimum values, which are calculated based on the data given in the table.
| Technological elements of a rabbit farm | Maximum number of rabbit heads per unit area | Standard area for 1 rabbit head, sq.m. | Dimensions, m | |
| Length | Width | |||
|
For main herd rabbits |
||||
| Two-section rabbit cage
Nest compartment |
1 | 0,5-0,65
0,18 |
0,6-0,7 | 0,9
0,36 |
|
Group cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds) |
||||
| For young animals | 6 | 0,1 | 0,9 | 0,672 |
| For replacement young stock:
females males |
0,15 0,605 |
0,672 0,672 |
||
|
Individual cages for keeping rabbits in sheds (sheds) |
||||
| For young animals | 1 | 0,13-0,16 | 0,29-0,36 | 0,45 |
| For replacement young stock | 1-2 | 0,22-0,32 | 0,48-0,72 | 0,45 |
The height of cages for both domestic rabbits and rabbits kept on industrial rabbit farms is taken to be at least 45 centimeters.
Size of the rabbit nest box: length – 50 cm, width – 36 cm, height 30-4 cm.
When making cages for keeping rabbits, galvanized metal mesh is used, the cell size of which is 24x24-50 mm, the floors are 16x48 mm.
Farmers can take care not only of the housing of their wards, but also of a place for walking.
Photo of wooden cages for raising rabbits
Materials for cells
The choice of material, as well as the location, must be treated with care. Usually they try not to use metal parts in the construction of cages. The frame and supports of the cage can be assembled from wooden parts. The choice of wall material is more varied; you can use board, plywood or mesh. The final option will depend on the climate zone and the location of the cells.
Some tips for selecting and preparing material:
- The cell size of a rabbit cage should be small;
- To attach the mesh, you can use wooden or plastic slats;
- It is important to ensure the safety of the animals inside the cage. For this purpose, all wooden parts are processed.
Making a rabbit cage and its dimensions
The optimal size of the cage - housing for adult individuals is 1500x700x700 mm. If you make the floor from mesh or wooden slats, then caring for the rabbits will be more convenient. Waste products will be automatically removed from the cells. The outdoor version is assembled with a two-level floor, where the bottom layer is made of boards.
The roof for the rabbit hutch is made of the same material as the walls. But if you plan to keep it outside, then you need to take care of protection from precipitation. Can be covered with slate or other similar non-metallic material. If the roof is made of metal, then in sunny weather it will heat up and it will become very hot inside.
It is recommended to place the finished cells at a short distance from the floor or ground. This will provide protection from rodents and make caring for domestic rabbits convenient. Rabbit feeding equipment should not become dirty. Some have solved this issue by making retractable or hanging feeders.
A little more about the size of the rabbitry. The front wall of the cage should be approximately 10-15 cm higher than the back wall. The entire area of the finished home is divided into several sections, which are connected to each other by small manholes. A hinged lid will help make maintenance a little easier.
It is worth mentioning once again that the size of the cage for rabbits largely depends on the breed, number and location of keeping. But there are general recommendations for any type of cell:
- The section in which males are planned to be kept must be large enough. This will allow the animals to move freely and not become lazy, otherwise they will be unable to give birth.
- A separate spacious cage is allocated for the rabbits. This section can accommodate up to four pieces. It is important to take into account that at first the baby rabbits are kept next to their mother for fattening.
- Make one free cage in which the rabbits can be fattened. Some babies do not gain enough weight while spending time with their mother.
- The hole into the nesting compartment should be raised by about ten centimeters. To prevent it from being chewed, you can trim the edges with steel. But do it carefully, without leaving any nicks.
- The front wall should be equipped with two doors - one for the main compartment, the second for the nest. And if the first option can be mesh, then the latter is necessarily solid.
- Outdoor cages for domestic rabbits can be equipped with a manhole for walking. To do this, a hole is made in the back walls into a special pen, fenced with a net. This will give the rabbits the opportunity to frolic and enjoy fresh grass.
Making a rabbit cage with your own hands is not that difficult. If you apply the tips written above, then you can hope for a good increase in profits and convenient care for the animals.
Drawings and photos of cages for rabbits
Photo of a wooden cage for raising rabbits on a home plot with dimensions
Cage for three adult rabbits (for home keeping). Consists of two levels. The lower level has double doors that open wide for easy access to the cage. The upper level consists of two separate compartments connected by an entrance. One of the cage compartments is designed for rabbits to sleep. The other compartment is covered with mesh and this area can also be opened for easy access (great for cleaning the cage and for grooming and feeding rabbits). The design of this cage is quite simple, and you can make it yourself to keep rabbits in your garden.
The photo shows rabbit cages made of wood and metal mesh
Photos of cages with walking for rabbits
Drawings of cages for rabbits and their young
Drawing of an adobe cage (1), a wattle-clay cage (2), a combined cage with a run for keeping rabbits (3), a cage from a box (4)
Drawings of cages for keeping rabbits at home
Industrial cages for keeping and raising rabbits
Photo of one and two-tier cages for twelve rabbits with offspring (dimensions 2.3 x 2.05 m)
The photo shows one and two-story cages for fattening meat (up to 144 heads)
Video tutorials for constructing cages for rabbits
Video about making a rabbit cage with your own hands:
Raising rabbits at home is becoming a very popular activity. This business can bring regular profits. In the video below, the author talks about his small home farm. In addition, breeding these animals is not particularly difficult and does not require much effort, which means that even not the most experienced farmer can cope with it. However, the first question that needs to be resolved is how to build a rabbitry for fluffies with your own hands?
If you think that you cannot build a rabbitry with your own hands, then this is a big mistake. When deciding on the construction of a rabbitry, do not rush to resort to the services of companies. In fact, there is nothing complicated at all in this design. One of the main requirements is a good location. Do not forget that it is necessary to take into account the stocking density of rabbits - 0.1-0.2 m2 per animal.
Do not forget that rabbits do not like drafts or direct sunlight. It is also necessary to separate a place for already grown rabbits and a place for small ones. It would be nice to leave room for “walking” as well. In addition, rabbits need to eat caecotrophs - night feces, so it is necessary to provide for this during construction.
Types and sizes of cells
If we talk about the types of rabbit hutches, there are very, very many of them. How the room for rabbits will turn out depends only on the desire, imagination and engineering abilities of the builder himself. There is a standard cage size for two adults, it is about 140x70x70 (LxWxH) centimeters.
For a couple
Double cages for couples are usually made of wire. 2-3 month old pets are most often placed there.
For the female and her offspring
This is a special type of cell with a queen cell. This type of cage has a special compartment for the queen rabbit. It is known that sometimes female rabbits eat their offspring, which is why they are kept separately. But in such rabbitries it should be possible to move the young rabbits to the mother for feeding, and then back.
For young animals
There are special cages for young pets. Such rabbitries are built for a large group of rabbits that have already passed the period of maternal feeding, but are not yet mature enough. In such cells they must “gain weight.”
Two-tier structures
In fact, such structures can have more than two floors; the dimensions depend on the wishes of the builder. They are an aviary and allow you to save a lot of space. You can see an example of such a design in the video.
Material selection
To make a rabbitry with your own hands, you can use inexpensive materials. You will need any boards, slats, logs and beams. You will also need metal elements such as angles and pipes.
You need to select a suitable material for lining the walls of the cage. Tin, iron or slate will do. In addition, you need to think about the roofing material. Here you can also use slate, linoleum, polycarbonate and ondulin.
You will also need a mesh with cells of about 40 millimeters, hinges, nails, and screws. Tools such as a screwdriver, hammer and screwdriver will be useful for the job.
How the finished rabbitry will look depends on the specific plan. The design presented in the video is suitable for medium-sized rabbits. The cell consists of compartments, between which there is a hole. To make it easier to clean, you need to make a folding or removable roof.
It is imperative to pay attention to the fact that males must be able to move freely. The ability to reproduce depends on this. Females should be kept in a separate enclosure with less space. When giving birth, males need to be kept close to female rabbits for some time.
One cell needs to be made empty. In case one of the rabbits does not reach the required weight and needs special feeding. In this video you can see one of many examples of building a house for pets.
Drawing of the future building
The following photos show several typical drawings that will help you create a rabbitry with your own hands. The choice of scheme depends on what type of rabbitry you need to make and what its dimensions should be. You can find a wide variety of drawings on the Internet.
Feeding and watering system
After assembling the frame according to the instructions, you need to think about the feeder and drinker. For better clarity, you can watch videos that the Internet is rich in.
The length of the feeder should be at least 10 centimeters for an adult and about 7 centimeters for a young one. Height is about 10 centimeters. A feeder about 40 centimeters long is suitable for a female and offspring. This video shows how to make this device with your own hands.
There are a great many types of drinking bowls, bottle ones are especially good. They are very simple and their price is not high. More details about production are described in the video below. In order to make such a device, you need to take a plastic bottle and make a hole in the lid so that the water flows out slowly. In the video, the author makes a drinking bowl from improvised materials.
Mistakes to Avoid
There are some disadvantages that you need to know before you start building a rabbit barn at home:
- A solid sheet floor in a feeder is not very practical. The bedding material becomes dirty very quickly, manure accumulates in layers and freezes in winter.
- A mesh floor in a feeder can be very dangerous for furry pets. A rabbit's foot may get caught inside the mesh. And in the cold season, the animal can simply freeze to the floor.
- Try not to make the rabbitry too cramped; when constructing it, do not skimp on space.
- It is best to make the cage on stands so that later carrying it, if necessary, is not so difficult.
- You should not make the doors too small so that the rabbits can be easily pulled out if necessary.
Video “Rabbit Breeding, Personal Experience”
Today, rabbit breeding is becoming a fairly popular activity that brings benefits and very good dividends. If you decide to start this business, the first thing you need is to build cages for rabbits - we will provide drawings with dimensions and video instructions in this article.
Surely, before making a decision build a rabbitry yourself, you have repeatedly looked at photos and videos of ready-made designs and even thought about the option of buying one of them. However, there is nothing difficult about making cages for rabbits with your own hands; you will find drawings for this in this section.
So let's get started.
- First of all, you need to select the material for building your future home. It should be safe for its furry inhabitants, smooth in texture, without foreign objects.
- For walls boards, thick plywood or mesh are often used.
- For frame and support It is preferable to take wooden blocks.
- On the floor a lath or fine mesh is placed. The roof should be made of boards or plywood.
- If the rabbitry is located outdoors, the roof must be covered with any roofing material.
You can see a detailed drawing with the dimensions of a two-section cage in the photo.
This is what it will look like double two-section cage.
Cages for rabbits according to the Zolotukhin method
Unlike classical structures, a rabbit cage built according to N. I. Zolotukhin’s method, it is not necessary to equip it with a mesh floor and a pallet. For such cells, either boards or slate are used. Only the back side of the cage is equipped with a fine mesh, no more than 20 cm wide. This is due to the fact that 95% of rabbits relieve themselves at the back side. The feeder in this design is placed directly on the door. Another difference between a cage built using the Zolotukhin method is that it does not provide space for a queen cell. His rabbit will choose on her own where she considers it more correct. Perhaps the video with Nikolai Zolotukhin himself will tell you best about how to create cages for rabbits with your own hands.
After watching the detailed video instructions, you can properly build a comfortable cage for your pets. Having such a structure on your farm, you will not encounter the problem of cleaning the cage itself; you also have There will be no difficulty in cleaning rabbit feeders. And your pets will always be clean, well-groomed and healthy and will love their house very much.
DIY rabbit feeders
A feeder for breeding rabbits is an equally important element of the entire cycle. It must be of high quality, accessible to use, both for you and for your pets, and also safe for their life and health.
You can buy a ready-made feeder or make it yourself. A homemade feeder, by the way, is a more correct option. After all, it can be made almost free of charge and made in the size you need. The main thing is to provide a place for its placement when designing the cage. A do-it-yourself rabbit cage, equipped with a feeder, will serve as an excellent habitat for your pets.
The feeders themselves are divided into three key types:
- hay feeders;
- trough feeders;
- bunker feeders.
How to make a feeder for rabbits: drawings, photos and video instructions
In agriculture, there is another name for the first type of feeders - sennik. This design is very reminiscent of a manger for livestock. The kennel can be equipped both outside and inside the cage.
Making such a hay feeder does not require special skills. and skills. In order to make it with your own hands, you need to draw markings for the side walls on a sheet of plywood, focusing on the dimensions of the rabbitry door. And then, using a hacksaw, cut out the two side walls approximately as shown in the photo. 
Don't forget to cut out the grooves on which you will attach the structure to the wall. Using a wooden block, we connect the two parts with self-tapping screws, and cut out the front part from tin scissors designed for metal carving, and then fasten it. 
We attach any grille near the grooves (even a part from an old refrigerator will do). This is where the rabbits will take their hay.
A groove feeder is the simplest type of feeder for rabbits.. It can be made from plywood, tin and even plastic bottles. There is nothing complicated in its design, and in order to make a similar feeder with your own hands, just look at its image. 