How to do heating yourself. Explanations in simple language: do-it-yourself water heating schemes for a private house

One of the most important elements of private housing is the design and installation of heating systems. Do-it-yourself boiler room in a private house is not an easy task. A significant factor is that the installed autonomous heating must be characterized by quality, economy and efficiency. Of course, it is best to organize heating installation in a private home by specialists.

It is not only possible, but also necessary, to involve designers and installers in the process, but it is up to the home owner to decide whether to act as workers or consultants. Regardless of the chosen option, it is necessary to clearly understand each stage of the development and installation of the heating system. This article is a step-by-step guide designed to help organize the calculation of the heating system of a private home or competently hire specialists for this.

Most often, private housing is heated with a water heating system, since this option has the most important advantage - versatility. In addition, water systems make it possible to create combined heating, when not one energy carrier is used, but two or three types of it.

In any case, the distribution of heating pipes in a private house and its heating system with a coolant as a transfer link contains the following elements:

heat source;
a pipeline network with fittings and additional equipment for regulating the coolant;
heating devices (radiators or underfloor heating circuits).

Additional equipment includes the following parts of the chain:

expansion tank;
circulation pump;
hydraulic separator (hydraulic arrow);
buffer capacity;
distribution manifold;
indirect heating boiler;
devices and automation equipment.

It is worth noting that the expansion tank is a mandatory element of a water heating system, since when water heats up, it expands, and in order to avoid ruptures in connections, a container is needed to receive excess liquid, and all other attributes are installed as needed.

The pump performs forced circulation of water in the system, and if there are several circuits in the circuit that are separated by a hydraulic arrow or a buffer tank, then two or more pumps are used. The buffer tank, in turn, is responsible for two tasks: it functions as a heat accumulator and works as a hydraulic separator. In cottages with several levels, boiler circulation circuits are also used.

In the case of a radial connection scheme for radiators or in underfloor heating systems, collectors are installed to distribute the coolant. An indirect heating boiler is a reservoir with a coil that serves to heat water from the coolant for domestic hot water needs.

Pressure gauges and thermometers are used to visually demonstrate and control the pressure and temperature of water in the heating system. And automation elements such as controllers, sensors, servos and thermostats not only monitor the coolant parameters, but also carry out their automatic adjustment.

Also, the water heating system of a private house is maintained and controlled using shut-off and control valves:

Now that you have become familiar with the basic elements of the heating system, you can begin the calculations.

How to calculate the heating system and boiler power?

Without knowing the amount of thermal energy required to heat a room, it is impossible to select equipment and do the correct heating installation in a private house with your own hands. This amount can be determined by approximate or exact calculation. The first option for calculating the thermal power by the area of heated premises is very popular with sellers of heating equipment, since it is simple and allows you to “shove in” a little extra material.

In this case, each room is taken separately, its dimensions are measured, the area is calculated, which is multiplied by 100 W. Then the same calculations are made for other rooms. Summing up, these indicators calculate the heat energy required to heat the entire building.

We suggest a more accurate method - use and.

The program will automatically quickly make all the calculations, taking into account the various parameters of the room. It is important that calculations are carried out for each room separately, one by one entering the required data into the program. Then all these results also need to be summed up, this will be the heat loss of this private house.

Diagrams of various heating systems

In private homes, one- and two-pipe systems are quite popular. It's quite easy to distinguish them:

in a single-pipe system, all radiators are connected to a common manifold. Passing by all the radiators in the form of a closed ring, it serves as both supply and return;
In a two-pipe system, the coolant goes to the radiators through one pipe and leaves through the other.

Choosing the right heating system for a private home is quite difficult, so it would be a good idea to consult with a specialist. A two-pipe system is more reliable than a single-pipe system.

A single-pipe system, contrary to the generally accepted opinion about lower installation costs, is worth noting that such a system is not only more expensive, but also more difficult to implement. This video explains it very well:

The trick is that in a single-pipe system, water, moving from radiator to radiator, cools down more each time, so their power should increase by increasing the number of sections. Moreover, the distribution manifold must have a larger diameter, unlike a two-pipe system. And finally, in a single-pipe system, automatic control is difficult due to the mutual influence of the radiators on each other.

In a dacha or small house where the number of radiators does not exceed 5, you can safely begin installing a single-pipe horizontal system (in everyday life - Leningrad). With a larger number of radiators, it will not be able to work normally due to the fact that the last radiators will be cold.

As an option, install a vertical single-pipe system in a private two-story house. Such systems are quite common and function normally.

The two-pipe heating distribution scheme from the boiler allows the coolant to be delivered to all radiators at the same temperature, so there is no need for additional sections. The division into return and supply main routes allows automatic control using thermostatic valves.

The system is generally simpler, and the diameters of the main pipelines are smaller. The types of two-wire systems are as follows:

dead-end: the pipelines are divided into branches, which are called shoulders, through which the coolant flows opposite each other;
associated two-pipe system: in this case, the collector is a continuation of the supply, and the water moves in one direction, thus the circuit forms a ring;
radial (collector). It is the most expensive wiring method: pipelines coming from the collector are laid to each radiator in the floor.

If you lay horizontal pipes of larger diameter with a slope of 3 - 5 mm per 1 m, then the system will work by gravity (due to gravity). Such a system can rightfully be considered energy-independent, since there is no need to install a circulation pump. It is worth noting that both a single-pipe and a two-pipe scheme can work in this way; the only condition must be to create appropriate conditions in which the coolant will circulate naturally.

The heating system can be open; to do this, you need to install an expansion tank at the top point, which will communicate with the atmosphere. This design scheme is used in gravity networks; it is impossible to create heating there any other way.

The system can be made of a closed type, which will operate from excess pressure, if a membrane-type expansion tank is installed near the heating boiler on the return line. This solution is quite new and is used mainly in systems where there is forced movement of coolant.

It is impossible not to mention the underfloor heating system for heating the house. A significant disadvantage is the high cost, since hundreds of meters of pipes will need to be laid in the floor screed, which is why you can end up with a heating water circuit distributed throughout the room.

The ends of the pipes fit into a distribution manifold with a mixing unit, on which its own circulation pump is installed. One of the most important advantages I would like to note is the comfortable, uniform heating of the premises. This system is suitable for any living space.

Advice: for the owner of a house with a total area not exceeding 150 m2, you can safely install a two-pipe system with forced circulation. In this case, the diameters of the pipes will be as follows: for mains - no more than 25 mm, for connections to radiators - 15 mm.

Heating system design and installation

It can be installed both in an already built house and during the construction of a new building.

During the construction of a building, installation is simpler and more economical; it is possible to install pipes in the walls or lay them in the floor, however, regardless of the stage of heating in the house, the requirements for its installation must be met:

installation should be carried out in a warm room. The heating should not be started at a temperature below 5°C. This is done as a precaution to prevent overcooling of the coolant;
the pipeline is mounted along the wall, inside them or in the floor with a minimum height of 150 mm, otherwise the pipes may be damaged during installation of the plinth;
to prevent air locks from appearing in the system, any pipe differences should be eliminated;
the batteries also need to be installed near the window, at least 150 mm from the floor and 50 mm from the window sill, and at the same level in all rooms and taking into account the manufacturer’s recommendations;
To ensure that there are no malfunctions in the operation of the system, an expansion tank should be installed and a drain should be equipped to replace the coolant if necessary. It is recommended to change water once every 6-7 years, and antifreeze more often - once every 3-4 years. When replacing the coolant, it is necessary to flush the system.

To install a heating system in a private house, you will need a project. It is compiled as follows:

Draw a rough house plan.
Divide the rooms according to the degree of comfort.
Calculate the heat loss of each room separately.
Plan how the batteries will be located in each room.
Calculate how many sections you will need for each battery.
Decide which heating scheme will be optimal for you.
Make calculations of the boiler power, the required amount of material (number of valves, tees, automation, pipe footage, etc.).

Important! It is quite difficult to do all the work yourself, so it would be better to ask what the prices for installing a heating system in a private house are from different companies. This will simplify the task of determining what work you can do yourself and what is better to entrust to professionals.

Heating system installation steps:

boiler installation;
pipe routing;
battery installation;
joining batteries with pipes;
installation of thermostats and pressure gauges;
installation of expansion tank and pump;
connecting the boiler to the system.

When the heating system is completely assembled, it needs to be tested. To carry out this operation, you need to fill the pipes with water and create the required pressure. The next step will be to check all connections between the pipes and the junctions with the batteries. If defects appear, they must be eliminated and the test must be re-tested.

It follows from this that installing a heating system in a private home is a rather complex and lengthy procedure, the implementation of which requires considerable knowledge. To this should be added the prices for materials and installation work. You also need to remember that all steps and decisions made must be agreed with the permitting authorities. Only after all permits have been obtained and the system has been checked, can we say with confidence that the heating system is ready and will provide comfort and safe use in the future.

This guide is intended for owners of small private houses who want to independently organize home heating in order to save money. The most rational solution for such buildings is a closed heating system (abbreviated as ZSO), operating with excess coolant pressure. Let's consider its operating principle, types of wiring diagrams and do-it-yourself device.

Operating principle of closed CO

A closed (otherwise known as closed) heating system is a network of pipelines and heating devices in which the coolant is completely isolated from the atmosphere and moves forcibly - from a circulation pump. Any SSO necessarily includes the following elements:

heating unit - gas, solid fuel or electric boiler;
safety group consisting of a pressure gauge, safety and air valve;
heating devices - radiators or underfloor heating circuits;
connecting pipelines;
a pump that pumps water or non-freezing liquid through pipes and batteries;
coarse mesh filter (dirt collector);
closed expansion tank equipped with a membrane (rubber “bulb”);
shut-off valves, balancing valves.

Typical closed thermal circuit

Note. Depending on the design, the ZSO additionally includes modern devices for regulating temperature and coolant flow - radiator thermal heads, check and three-way valves, thermostats, and the like.

The operating algorithm of a closed-type system with forced circulation looks like this:

After assembly and pressure testing, the pipeline network is filled with water until the pressure gauge shows a minimum pressure of 1 bar.
The automatic air vent of the safety group releases air from the system during the filling process. He also removes gases that accumulate in pipes during operation.
The next step is to turn on the pump, start the boiler and warm up the coolant.
As a result of heating, the pressure inside the ZSO increases to 1.5-2 Bar.
The increase in the volume of hot water is compensated by a membrane expansion tank.
If the pressure rises above the critical point (usually 3 Bar), the safety valve will release excess liquid.
Once every 1-2 years, the system must undergo an emptying and flushing procedure.

The principle of operation of an apartment building's SSS is absolutely identical - the movement of coolant through pipes and radiators is ensured by network pumps located in an industrial boiler room. There are also expansion tanks there; the temperature is regulated by a mixing or elevator unit.

How a closed heating system functions is explained in the video:

Positive qualities and disadvantages

The main differences between closed heat supply networks and outdated open systems with natural circulation are the lack of contact with the atmosphere and the use of transfer pumps. This gives rise to a number of advantages:

the required pipe diameters are reduced by 2-3 times;
the slopes of the highways are kept to a minimum, since they serve to drain water for the purpose of flushing or repairs;
the coolant is not lost by evaporation from an open tank, therefore, you can safely fill pipelines and batteries with antifreeze;
ZSO is more economical in terms of heating efficiency and cost of materials;
closed heating is better regulated and automated and can operate in conjunction with solar collectors;
the forced flow of coolant makes it possible to organize floor heating with pipes embedded inside the screed or in the grooves of the walls.

A gravitational (gravity-flowing) open system outperforms the ZSO in terms of energy independence - the latter is unable to operate normally without a circulation pump. Point two: a closed network contains much less water and in case of overheating, for example, a TT boiler, there is a high probability of boiling and the formation of a vapor lock.

Reference. A wood-burning boiler is saved from boiling by a buffer tank that absorbs excess heat.

Types of closed systems

Before you buy heating equipment, pipeline fittings and materials, you need to choose the preferred option for a closed water system. Master plumbers practice installation of four main circuits:

Single-pipe with vertical and horizontal wiring (Leningrad).
Collector, otherwise – radial.
Double-pipe dead-end with arms of the same or different lengths.
The Tichelman loop is a circular route with associated water movement.

Additional Information. Closed heating systems also include water heated floors. It is much more difficult to assemble radiator heating; it is not recommended for beginners to undertake such installation.

We propose to consider each scheme separately, analyzing the pros and cons. As an example, let’s take the project of a one-story private house with an area of 100 m² with an attached boiler room, the layout of which is shown in the drawing. The amount of heat load for heating has already been calculated, the required amount of heat is indicated for each room.

Installation of wiring elements and connection to a heat source is performed in approximately the same way. The installation of a circulation pump is usually provided in the return line; a sump tank, a make-up pipe with a tap and (if viewed downstream) are mounted in front of it. Typical wiring for a solid fuel and gas boiler is shown in the diagrams.

The expansion tank is not shown in the figure.

Read more about installation and methods of connecting heating units using various energy sources in separate manuals:

Single-pipe wiring

The popular horizontal “Leningradka” scheme is one ring main of increased diameter, into which all heating devices are connected. Passing through the pipe, the flow of heated coolant is divided at each tee and flows into the battery, as shown in the sketch below.

Having reached the branch, the flow is divided into 2 parts, about a third flows into the radiator, where it cools and returns to the main line again

Having transferred heat to the room, the cooled water returns back to the main line, mixes with the main flow and moves to the next radiator. Accordingly, the second heating device receives water cooled by 1-3 degrees and again takes the required amount of heat from it.

Leningrad horizontal wiring - one ring line bypasses all heating devices

Result: increasingly cold water flows into each subsequent radiator. This imposes certain restrictions on a closed one-pipe system:

The heat transfer of the third, fourth and subsequent batteries must be calculated with a margin of 10-30%, adding additional sections.
The minimum diameter of the line is DN20 (internal). The outer size of PPR pipes will be 32 mm, metal-plastic and cross-linked polyethylene – 26 mm.
The cross-section of the supply pipes to the heaters is DN10, the outer diameter is 20 and 16 mm for PPR and PEX, respectively.
The maximum number of heating devices in one Leningradka ring is 6 pieces. If you take more, problems will arise with increasing the number of sections of the last radiators and increasing the diameter of the distribution pipe.
The cross-section of the ring pipeline does not decrease throughout its entire length.

Reference. Single-pipe distribution can be vertical - with lower or upper distribution of coolant through risers. Such systems are used to organize gravity flow in two-story private cottages or operate under pressure in old apartment buildings.

A single-pipe closed-type heating system will be inexpensive if it is soldered from polypropylene. In other cases, it will significantly hit your pocket due to the price of the main pipe and large fittings (tees). What the “Leningradka” looks like in our one-story house is demonstrated in the drawing.

Since the total number of heating devices exceeds 6, the system is divided into 2 rings with a common return manifold. The inconvenience of installing single-pipe wiring is noticeable - you have to cross doorways. A decrease in flow in one radiator causes a change in water flow in the remaining batteries, so balancing the “Leningrad” consists of coordinating the operation of all heaters.

Advantages of the beam scheme

Why the collector system received such a name can be clearly seen in the diagram presented. From the comb installed in the center of the building, individual coolant supply lines diverge to each heating device. The lines are laid in the form of rays along the shortest path - under the floors.

The collector of the closed beam system is fed directly from the boiler; circulation in all circuits is provided by a single pump located in the combustion chamber. In order to protect the branches from airing during the filling process, automatic valves - air vents - are installed on the comb.

Strengths of the collector system:

the circuit is energy efficient because it allows you to accurately dose the amount of coolant sent to each radiator;
the heating network is easy to fit into any interior - supply pipes can be hidden in the floor, walls or behind a suspended (suspended) ceiling;
hydraulic balancing of the branches is carried out using manual valves and flow meters (rotameters) installed on the manifold;
water is supplied to all batteries at the same temperature;
the operation of the circuit is easy to automate - the manifold control valves are equipped with servo drives that close the flow according to a signal from the thermostats;
ZSO of this type is suitable for cottages of any size and number of floors - a separate collector is installed at each level of the building, distributing heat to groups of batteries.

From a financial investment point of view, a closed beam system is not very expensive. A lot of pipes are consumed, but their diameter is minimal - 16 x 2 mm (DN10). Instead of a factory comb, it is quite acceptable to use one soldered from polypropylene tees or twisted from steel fittings. True, without rotameters, adjustment of the heating network will have to be done using radiator balancing valves.

The distribution comb is placed in the center of the building, the radiator lines are laid directly

There are few disadvantages of beam wiring, but they are worth attention:

Hidden installation and testing of pipelines is carried out only at the stage of new construction or major repairs. It is unrealistic to install radiator lines in the floors of a lived-in house or apartment.
It is highly desirable to locate the collector in the center of the building, as shown in the drawing of a one-story house. The goal is to make the connections to the batteries approximately the same length.
In the event of a leak in a pipe embedded in a floor screed, it is quite difficult to find the location of the defect without a thermal imager. Do not make connections in the screed, otherwise you risk encountering the problem shown in the photo.

Leaking connection inside a concrete monolith

Two-pipe options

When installing autonomous heating of apartments and country houses, 2 types of such schemes are used:

Dead-end (another name is shoulder). The heated water is distributed to the heating devices through one line, and is collected and flows back to the boiler through the second line.
The Tichelman loop (passing distribution) is a circular two-pipe network where the heated and cooled coolant moves in one direction. The principle of operation is similar - the batteries receive hot water from one line, and the cooled water is discharged into the second pipeline - the return line.

Note. In a closed associated system, the return line starts from the first radiator, and the supply line ends at the last one. The diagram below will help you figure it out.

What is good about a dead-end closed heating system for a private house:

the number of “arms” - dead-end branches - is limited only by the power of the boiler installation, so two-pipe wiring is suitable for any building;
pipes are laid open or closed inside building structures - at the request of the homeowner;
as in the radial circuit, equally hot water comes to all batteries;
ZSO lends itself well to regulation, automation and balancing;
correctly positioned “shoulders” do not cross doorways;
In terms of the cost of materials and installation, a dead-end wiring will be cheaper than a single-pipe one if the assembly is carried out using metal-plastic or polyethylene pipes.

The optimal option for connecting batteries is two separate branches that go around the premises on both sides

Designing a closed shoulder system for a country house or residential building with an area of up to 200 square meters is not particularly difficult. Even if you make branches of different lengths, the circuit can be balanced through deep balancing. An example of wiring in a one-story building of 100 m² with two “shoulders” is shown above in the drawing.

Advice. When choosing the length of the branches, the heating load should be taken into account. The optimal number of batteries on each “arm” is from 4 to 6 pcs.

Connecting heaters with associated coolant movement

The Tichelman loop is an alternative version of a closed two-pipe network, which involves combining a large number of heating devices (over 6 pieces) into a single ring. Take a look at the associated wiring diagram and note: no matter what radiator the coolant flows through, the total length of the route will not change.

This results in almost ideal hydraulic equilibrium of the system - the resistance of all sections of the network is the same. This significant advantage of the Tichelman loop over other closed wiring also entails the main disadvantage - 2 lines will inevitably cross the doorway. Bypass options are under the floors and above the door frame with the installation of automatic air vents.

Disadvantage - the ring loop passes through the entrance door opening

Choosing a heating scheme for a country house

Dead-end two-pipe.
Collector.
Two-pipe associated.
Single-pipe.

Hence the advice: you can’t go wrong if you choose the first option for a house with an area of up to 200 m² - a dead-end scheme; it will work in any case. Beam wiring is inferior to it in two respects - price and the possibility of installation in rooms with finished finishing.

A single-pipe version of the heating network is perfect for a small house with a square footage of each floor of up to 70 m². The Tichelman loop is appropriate for long branches that do not cross the door, for example, heating the upper floors of a building. How to choose the right system for houses of various shapes and number of storeys, watch the video:

Regarding the selection of pipe diameters and installation, we will give several recommendations:

If the area of the home does not exceed 200 m², it is not necessary to carry out calculations - use the advice of the expert in the video or take the cross-section of the pipelines according to the diagrams given above.
When you need to “hang” more than six radiators on a branch of a dead-end wiring, increase the diameter of the pipe by 1 standard size - instead of DN15 (20 x 2 mm), take DN20 (25 x 2.5 mm) and lay it to the fifth battery. Next, run lines with a smaller cross-section specified initially (DN15).
In a building under construction, it is better to do radial wiring and select radiators with bottom connections. Be sure to insulate underground lines and protect them with plastic corrugation at the intersections of walls.
If you don’t know how to properly solder polypropylene, then it’s better not to mess with PPR pipes. Install heating made of cross-linked polyethylene or metal-plastic on compression or press fittings.
Do not embed pipeline joints in walls or screed, so as not to have problems with leaks in the future.

The heating system must be economical and efficient. It should be designed and installed correctly. Otherwise, in winter you will have to suffer from the cold not only outside, but also inside your home. There are several ways to heat a private house with your own hands. The classic version of its design is an electric or gas boiler plus one-pipe or two-pipe wiring. But other combinations are also possible. In order to correctly choose the most suitable scheme, you should thoroughly understand all their features.

Single-pipe schemes

The easiest way to calculate and assemble a heating system is with a single-pipe piping scheme for the coolant. The heated water in it sequentially passes from the boiler through all the radiators in the house, starting with the first and ending with the last in the chain. At the same time, each subsequent radiator receives less and less heat.

There are four main advantages of such a heating installation in a private house:

Ease of implementation;

Small cubic capacity of coolant;

Hydraulic stability of the system;

Low consumption of materials.

Installing a pipeline according to this scheme and connecting it to the boiler with your own hands, even if you have minimal skills, can be completed in two to three days. Plus, the costs of creating a water heating system in a house for single-pipe wiring are minimal compared to other options.

Few fittings, fittings and pipes are required here. The savings on materials are significant. And it doesn’t matter whether laminated timber or brick is chosen for the construction of the cottage. If the home is well insulated, then even a simple one-pipe system for heating it will be more than enough.

Among the weak points of this heating scheme are:

Inability to accurately regulate the heat supply in each room;

Limitation on the total length of the pipeline throughout the house (no more than 30 m);

Small amount of thermal energy in the battery furthest from the boiler;

Vulnerability to defrosting and gusts.

To mitigate the shortcomings, a circulation pump has to be built into a single-pipe system. But these are additional costs and potential equipment breakdowns. Plus, if there are any problems in any section of the pipe, heating of the entire cottage stops.

Single-pipe horizontal

If a private house is small and one-story, then a single-pipe heating system is best done in a horizontal design. To do this, a ring of one pipe is laid in the rooms around the perimeter of the cottage, which is connected to the inlet and outlet of the boiler. Radiators cut into the pipeline under the windows.

Single-pipe horizontal design - ideal for small spaces

The batteries are connected here using a bottom or cross connection. In the first case, heat losses will be at the level of 12–13%, and in the second they are reduced to 1–2%. It is the cross installation method that should be preferred. Moreover, the coolant supply to the radiator should be done from above, and the outlet from below. So the heat transfer from it will be maximum, and losses will be minimal.

Single-pipe vertical distribution

For a two-story cottage, a single-pipe vertical heating system is more suitable. In it, the pipe from the water heating equipment goes up to the attic or second floor, and from there it goes back down to the boiler room. In this case, the batteries are also connected in series one after the other, but with a side connection. The pipeline for the coolant is usually laid in the form of a single ring, first along the second and then along the first floor, in such a heating distribution in a low-rise building.

Single-pipe vertical design - saving on materials

But an example with vertical branches from a common horizontal pipe at the top is also possible. That is, first a circular circuit is made from the boiler up, along the second floor, down and along the first floor back to the water heater. And between the horizontal sections, vertical risers are laid with radiators connected to them.

The coldest battery in such a heating system for a private house will again be the last one in the chain - at the bottom of the boiler. In this case, there will be an excess of heat on the upper floor. It is necessary to somehow limit the volume of heat transfer at the top and increase it at the bottom. To do this, it is recommended to install bypass jumpers with control valves on the radiators.

Leningradka

Both schemes described above have one common disadvantage - the temperature of the water in the last radiator turns out to be very low, and it gives off very little heat to the room. To compensate for this cooling, it is recommended to improve the single-pipe horizontal heating option for a private house by installing bypasses at the bottom of the battery.

Leningradka - improved single-pipe system

This wiring was called “Leningradka”. In it, the radiator is connected from above to a pipeline running along the floor. Plus, taps are placed on the outlets to the batteries, which can be used to regulate the volume of incoming coolant. All this contributes to a more even distribution of energy across individual rooms in the house.

Two-pipe heating systems

In a two-pipe heating system, the batteries are no longer connected to one common line, but to two - supply and return. This way the heat distribution throughout the building occurs more evenly. The water reaches each heat exchanger at approximately the same temperature. It is not for nothing that such a scheme is usually used in high-rise buildings with a large number of heated rooms. But it is also often installed in cottages, especially if they are large and have several floors.

The two-pipe heating system has the following advantages:

Possibility of precise adjustment of room temperature;

Uniformity of heat distribution in individual rooms;

High operational reliability;

It is permissible to repair one battery while continuing to operate the entire system.

The two-pipe heating scheme for private houses has only one serious drawback - price. Its high cost is often mentioned in comparison with its single-pipe analogue. However, pipes in this case require a smaller diameter. Their length doubles here. At the same time, due to the reduction in cross-section, the final estimate turns out to be not as inflated as it might seem at first glance.

By analyzing the types of foundations, we can immediately say unequivocally that a monolith will be more expensive than a strip foundation. When arranging heating for private houses, everything is not so simple and easy. When installing it, pipes of different diameters, various fittings and thermostats are used. The total cost of each variety must be calculated individually for the actual structure and for the specific parameters of the required temperature regime.

With bottom wiring

With the bottom scheme, both pipes are laid above or in the floor. And a pair of taps are connected to the batteries from below. This type of connection is often used to hide heating pipelines behind finishing. This is more of a design decision; it does not provide any special advantages in terms of heat transfer.

Two-pipe with bottom wiring

On the contrary, the lower method of connecting radiators involves the highest heat loss. It is generally not recommended for use in heating systems with natural (gravity) circulation. If this wiring is chosen, you will have to take care of the availability of special equipment for pumping the coolant, and choose a battery with more power. A boiler without a circulation pump cannot supply heat throughout the house alone.

With top wiring

In the upper heating distribution, the connection of radiators to the pipes can be diagonal or lateral. This is not the most important thing here. The main distinguishing feature of this type of water heating is the presence of an expansion tank.

Two-pipe with top wiring

The expansion tank is placed in the attic. The water heated in the boiler actually goes first into this storage tank. The coolant flows into the supply pipe naturally from top to bottom. And then the water, after releasing heat in the radiator, is sent back through the return line to the heater.

Beam system

The collector (radiant) heating scheme is the most advanced and modern in terms of thermal efficiency. In it, each of the radiators is connected to a pair of pipes from two common collectors for the floor, which are themselves connected to the boiler equipment. Temperature control with this layout is more flexible. Plus, it is permissible to connect not only batteries to the collectors, but also a “warm floor”.

Among the advantages of such a heating system for a private house, the following should be noted:

Convenient and flexible adjustment;

High efficiency of thermal energy distribution;

Possibility of replacing individual elements without turning off the heating as a whole.

In this case, the pipelines can be laid as desired. Often they are simply laid under the poured floor. The main disadvantage of the beam scheme is the high cost of the system as a whole and the long length of the pipes. Plus, it will be difficult to lay the latter in large quantities in an already finished cottage. Their installation should be planned in advance at the stage of designing a home.

Radial design - ideal heat distribution

This slate, if necessary, can be relatively easily replaced with another roofing material. The layout of the heating pipes is more complicated; changing it later is not so easy. Even the rigid dimensions of the ondulin sheet are not so scary; there are a lot of scraps, but this is only a slight increase in the roof estimate. With heating pipelines, especially for radial distribution, everything is much more complicated.

Natural and forced heating circulation

It doesn’t matter whether gas, wood, coal or electric heating is planned to be installed in a private house. In any case, there is a boiler (furnace or water heater) for heating the coolant, as well as pipes for its movement along the circuit. In this case, water in pipelines can flow naturally under the influence of gravity and convection or forcibly using a pump.

The first example is cheaper and quieter than the second. However, forced circulation can greatly improve the performance of the entire heating system. Often, heating a private home cannot be done without a booster pump. Due to the large number of radiators, pipe turns and fittings, the hydraulic resistance in the pipeline is too high. And this can only be compensated for by the operation of pumping equipment.

Which home heating system to choose

There are several types of heating systems. They differ in pipe layout, methods of connecting radiators and how the coolant moves through them. Competently choosing the most effective option is possible only if you have knowledge of heating engineering. It is necessary to make complex calculations and prepare a project. For a small cottage, a simple one-pipe scheme is quite suitable. In other cases, it is better to delegate the design to a professional. But the installation work can be done independently.

It is difficult to deny the fact that water heating is the most practical and popular way to maintain a comfortable microclimate. The coolant flowing through the pipes will easily deliver the required amount of kilocalories to the far corners of even a large building. And modern technological solutions make it possible to almost completely eliminate the participation of residents in the process of heating premises. It is the desire for such a level of comfort that pushes property owners to study water heating schemes for a private home. To develop and install them, you must correctly select the layout configuration, equipment, take into account the building parameters, regulatory requirements, as well as a number of other important points.

Purpose and features of water heating systems

Like any other, water heating compensates for the heat loss of the building. Mostly they arise due to thermal energy leaks through building envelopes and ventilation. This occurs under the influence of the temperature gradient between the environment and the air in the room.

Energy losses largely depend on the thermal conductivity of the materials used, the intensity of air exchange, as well as the quality of construction installation:

external walls;
basement and ceiling floors;
roofs;
floors on the ground;
window and door fillings.

An increase in heat loss is facilitated by low quality thermal insulation, defects in enclosing structures, as well as installation errors of door or window units. Eliminating the causes of additional heat losses reduces the consumption of energy resources and the amount of costs for their acquisition.

Why choose water heating schemes for private houses?

How to make a water heating circuit in a private house with your own hands

When choosing and installing equipment, laying heating communications, they mainly follow the instructions of SP 60.13330.2016, SP 55.13330.2016, GOST 11032-97. They also rely on the technological instructions of manufacturers of heat generators, heaters, pipes, control elements, etc.

The installation of instrumentation and safety groups must be provided. The parameters of the coolant are determined taking into account the characteristics of the heating equipment and its communication piping. Particular attention is paid to the hydraulic and thermal resistance of the utility network. Installation is carried out in such a way as to provide free access to network elements that require periodic maintenance.

Equipment, components and elements of water heating

The operational properties and technical capabilities of a water heating system depend on the configuration and characteristics of the equipment and materials used.

Heat generators

The source of thermal energy of the water system is a boiler (heat generator), which provides heating of the coolant. Types of heat generators:

Sometimes, to assemble a water heating circuit for a private house with your own hands, it is advisable to install combined heating devices. They are inferior in efficiency to specialized models, but allow the use of different types of fuel. Examples of combined models: electric/gas, solid fuel/gas, diesel/gas, solid fuel/electricity.

Boilers are capable of carrying two types of heat load: heating only or heating and hot water supply (DHW). In the first case, they are structurally single-circuit, in the second - double-circuit.

Read also: Heating systems with electric boiler

Expansion tanks

To protect boilers and heating network equipment from hydrodynamic damage, expansion tanks of closed or open types are used. They compensate for changes in coolant volume, allowing the pressure in the system to be maintained at a given level.

Open type models are metal tanks installed at the highest point of the heating circuit. Mainly designed for systems with natural circulation - circuits without a pump. They also make it possible to maintain the volume of coolant in the thermal circuits required for the operation of the thermal installation.

Closed tanks are equipped with an elastic membrane that divides the internal space of the tank into two parts - liquid and air, equipped with a valve. As the temperature rises, the volume of the coolant increases, its excess enters the liquid chamber, which compensates for the increase in pressure. The water heating circuit of a private house with a closed expansion tank is always equipped with a circulation pump. It ensures forced movement of the coolant, reduces the load on equipment, and allows reducing the cost of thermal energy by approximately 20-30%. Depending on the model, the circulation pump is available with a “dry” or “wet” rotor, with or without speed control.

Pipe wiring

To lay out circuits and connect elements of a heating network circuit, pipes are often used:

Metal. They have maximum mechanical strength. They are characterized by significant specific gravity and high labor intensity of installation.
All-polymer polypropylene and cross-linked polyethylene. Not prone to corrosion and accumulation of internal deposits. They do not conduct electric current. Long-term use of polymer communications at temperatures above +70°C leads to a reduction in their design service life by several times.
Composite. They are made from a polymer reinforced with fiberglass or aluminum foil. They can withstand temperatures of +100°C (+110°C) for a short time, however, like pipes made of solid polymer, they quickly “age” under the influence of overheated coolant.

Important! When choosing pipes from a particular material, you must take into account the scope of their application (for the main circuit or for a heated floor), the wiring diagram, operating conditions, as well as your financial capabilities.

Heating devices

The transfer of energy produced by the boiler in water heating schemes of a private house occurs through thermal devices:

radiators - steel, cast iron, aluminum, bimetallic;
convectors are devices that heat air during its convective circulation. Mostly convectors are made in steel;
registers made of aluminum, steel or cast iron pipes of a larger diameter than the supply pipes.

No less popular today is “warm floor”, which provides uniform heating of the air throughout the entire square footage of the room or in its designated local area.

Elements of shut-off and control valves, safety and control

The complete set of the water heating circuit must include:

taps and valves - to start/stop the flow of liquid;
valves and valves - to regulate coolant flow;
thermostats - for setting temperature conditions;
filters - to clean the circulating coolant from impurities;
air vents and Mayevsky taps - for relieving gas-air plugs.

According to the type of control, shut-off and control valves can be mechanical or with a servo drive, and according to the method of fixation - coupling, flange or welding. When installing heating circuits in a private house, fittings with a threaded connection are often installed.

A mandatory element of the system is the security group. It is located after the heat generator on the supply line. The group consists of a pressure gauge, a safety valve and an air vent. Its task is to automatically relieve excess pressure and gas-air mixture. If the boiler design is already equipped with a safety group, then its additional installation is not required.

Comfort of use and automation of the heating system are provided by controllers and programmers. To connect heated floors, pumping and mixing units and manifold distributors are used.

Make-up system

When using water heating, a gradual decrease in the volume of coolant is observed. It occurs due to leaks, evaporation or discharge through an emergency valve. Other reasons for fluid loss include removing air through a Mayevsky valve or automatic air vent, and carrying out repair and maintenance measures.

To replenish the coolant volume, a make-up system is used. Its functions in a closed circuit are performed by a special valve. And in an open-type heating network, liquid can also be added through an expansion tank.

Coolants

When choosing a coolant, pay attention to its heat capacity, viscosity, chemical inertness and safety of use.

Water. The most accessible and inexpensive option. It has a high heat transfer coefficient, low chemical activity, and makes it easy to regulate the temperature. However, water has a relatively narrow operating temperature range, boiling at +100°C and crystallizing at +100°C. Both threshold states of the coolant water can lead to damage to the heating system.

Antifreeze. They have a low freezing temperature (from -10...15°C and below). Almost no salt deposits form. Antifreezes are produced on the basis of ethylene glycol or polypropylene glycol, so they are more expensive than water. Ethylene glycol-based mixtures are toxic and therefore are not used in open systems.

Types of heating schemes suitable for private houses

Single-pipe scheme

The simplest is gravity flow with a series connection of radiators. When using a circuit without a pump, the coolant circulates due to the difference in density of the heated and cooled liquid. Therefore, to ensure circulation, pipelines are laid maintaining slight slopes.

The gravity-flow single-pipe system is energy-independent. However, it does not provide for the possibility of adjusting the temperature of the radiators, and also requires an accelerating manifold in the form of a vertical pipe section.

Based on the connection method, one-pipe heating systems are distinguished with the following wiring:

Vertical. Not prone to air locks. Thanks to the presence of risers, it can be used to heat houses two or three floors high.
Horizontal. It is used in one-story houses of large area or in floor-to-floor layouts. Requires a minimum number of pipes. It is characterized by uneven heating of the coolant along the length of the circuit.
Lower. Schemes with such wiring involve laying pipes through the basement, which reduces heat loss and reduces the labor intensity of system maintenance.
Upper. In this case, the supply pipeline is installed under the ceiling or through the attic. The system with top wiring has good hydrodynamic performance and low heat losses.

Increasing the efficiency of the water heating circuit of a private house is ensured by installing a circulation pump. The unit is cut into the return section of the pipe or line in front of the heating boiler and is placed so as to provide easy access to it for repair or maintenance.

A typical one-pipe horizontal system with a circulation pump is a scheme based on the “Leningrad” with diagonal connection of radiators. It can be used to heat large houses. The presence of shut-off valves in it, as well as the installation of bypasses, allow each radiator to be repaired independently.

Gone are the days when the only way to heat a private home was a stove. It was precisely because of the lack of proper heating and running water with hot water that many did not want to live outside the city, moving to comfortable high-rise buildings. But the benefits of civilization have reached country houses. Modern technologies and materials make it possible to equip the heating of a private house with your own hands, so that you no longer have to endure hardships. Now the amenities in a country house will be no worse than those in the city. There are several ways to make heating in a private home, which differ in design elements and energy sources. We will talk about them in this article.

What kind of heating system can a private house have?

First of all, heating systems differ in the type of coolant, which directly heats the premises by releasing heat. There are water systems, steam, air, electric and open fire. The latter are implemented in fireplaces, Russian stoves and grubs. In rooms where heating is implemented in this way, heat is distributed unevenly: there is cold air near the floor, it is hot near the heat source (stove), and cold air in the distance. In principle, a small house can be heated quite efficiently with a stove, but we will not focus on these systems, but will talk about those that can provide more uniform heating of a large house.

The water heating system is a closed circuit through which hot water circulates. The boiler acts as a heating element, pipes radiate from it throughout the house, radiators are installed in each room, through which hot water passes and gives off heat. Having given off heat, the water returns to the boiler, where it is heated, and the cycle repeats.

For a water system, a boiler using any available fuel is suitable. The most common are gas boilers because they are economical. Heating in a private house using natural gas is only possible if a gas main is connected to the house. Another disadvantage is that gas boilers require regular maintenance and monitoring by special services. However, gas heating is in great demand.

If the area is not gasified, you can use solid fuel boiler(coal, firewood, pallets). In this case, the heating will be completely autonomous and independent of the energy supply. But to store solid fuel you will have to equip a convenient and dry storage facility.

Liquid fuel boilers, for example, diesel, can also be used for water heating. This method has a number of disadvantages: diesel fuel is very expensive, heating is uneconomical, and to store fuel you will need a tank buried in the ground, which, despite all precautions, is a fire hazard.

Electric boiler, connected to the central power supply, will also perform its functions well. But if you have already decided to use electricity as an energy carrier, it would be more expedient to install electric radiators in order to directly convert electrical energy into heat without the mediation of water.

To set up completely autonomous heating, you can use alternative electricity, solar and wind converters, mini-hydro stations and more.

The boiler power is selected depending on the area of the house. Approximate characteristics can be seen in the table.

Both water and antifreeze can circulate in a water heating system. The system may also have additional elements for its adjustment. The expansion tank is used to collect excess liquid, thermostats are necessary to control the temperature in front of each radiator, a circulation pump for forced water movement is not always used, as well as an automatic air vent, shut-off and safety valves.

If you are interested in how much it costs to heat a private home, you can calculate it yourself. First you need to decide on the type of energy carrier. We will consider the option with a gas boiler. So, we need to purchase a boiler, pipes, radiators for each room, an expansion tank, taps, fittings, and all the necessary related materials. But before purchasing all this, you should draw up a heating diagram for a private house, which will accurately indicate the location of the boiler and radiators, the length of the pipeline, and more. Design work will cost a pretty penny, permits, approvals, plus installation. As a result, heating in a private house will cost approximately 9,000 - 11,000 USD.

The cost of equipment for the heating system will largely depend on the materials. For example, radiators are cast iron, steel,aluminum, stainless steel. The cheapest are cast iron, they are also the heaviest and short-lived. Stainless steel is the most expensive; few can afford to install them throughout the house. Pipes for laying the heating pipeline also come from various materials: steel(stainless steel, galvanized steel), copper, polymer(metal-plastic, polypropylene, polyethylene). Copper pipes are considered the most reliable, as they can withstand large temperature changes, and the connection is made by soldering with silver solder. Although polymer pipes are easy to install and are not afraid of corrosion, they have a significant drawback - they are afraid of temperature changes and lose their strength if they are bent. Steel pipes have recently been used quite rarely, although stainless and galvanized pipes are not afraid of corrosion, are durable and are firmly connected.

The cost of materials and work for installing heating in a private house is also affected by the type of water heating system, which can be single-pipe, two-pipe or collector. We'll talk about this below.

The water heating system has several disadvantages: complex and time-consuming installation, regular maintenance of the system and checking the boiler, but at the same time it is very popular among country residents compared to other systems.

Steam heating of a private house

The steam heating system is implemented according to the following principle: the boiler heats water under pressure to a boiling state, the resulting steam goes through the main line to the radiators, where it gives off its heat, condenses back into water and returns back to the boiler. The air is forced out of the system by hot steam. Based on the principle of condensate return to the boiler, there are two types of systems: open (open) and closed (closed). In open systems there is a tank in which condensate accumulates and then enters the boiler. In closed systems, condensate independently returns to the boiler through a wide pipe.

Important! Steam heating is not used in private residential buildings. “Steam” heating is mistakenly called “water” heating. In fact, a steam heating boiler is a huge unit, the size of a room, it is very difficult to operate and also dangerous. Such heating is used only in enterprises where steam is needed for production needs. Even in this case, the heat-transfer elements are carefully isolated from humans, since the steam temperature is 115 °C.

An air heating system can be installed in a house only at the construction stage; this is impossible in a finished residential building.

The principle of operation of this system is as follows: the heat generator heats the air, which then rises through the air ducts into the rooms and exits under the ceiling in such a way as to displace the cold air that has accumulated near the window or door. Cold air is forced into the air ducts leading to the heat generator. This is how circulation occurs, which can be gravitational or forced.

Gravitational circulation occurs due to temperature differences, when the volume of warm air is large enough, it displaces cold air towards the air ducts. The disadvantage of this method is that when windows or doors are open, circulation is disrupted.

For forced circulation a fan is used to increase air pressure.

The figure shows heating of a private two-story house using air.

The heat generator can burn natural gas, kerosene or diesel. In this case, natural gas can be either from the main line or bottled. Combustion products go into the chimney.

To freshen the air, clean air is mixed into the system, which can be taken from outside the room.

Air ducts can be made of metal, plastic or textile, and can also be round or rectangular in shape. The structure of air ducts can be rigid or flexible. Air ducts adjacent to external walls or unheated rooms must be thermally insulated. To correctly calculate how the air heating system at home should be located, what the size of the air ducts should be, what the network topology should be, you should contact specialists. Installation of such a system for a two-story house can cost 11,000 USD.

Electric heating of a private house

Heating a house using electricity can be achieved in several ways: using electric convectors, "warm floor" systems, infrared long-wave heaters(ceiling).

Heating a house with electricity cannot be called economical. Sometimes they even equip a water heating system and connect it to a boiler that runs on electricity. This method has a significant drawback: high energy costs and heat loss. Therefore, it is recommended to install an electric boiler as a spare in addition to a gas boiler (subject to the presence of a gas main).

But if there is no other available energy source, you have to use what you have. Then it will be more economical and expedient to use electric convectors rather than a boiler.

To calculate the number of necessary devices, you should know the volume of the room and the degree of its thermal insulation. For example, to heat a house of 100 m2, with a ceiling height of 3 m, the volume is 300 m3; if the room is poorly insulated, its heating requirement is 40 W/m3. In total, we multiply the volume of the room by the demand, we get 12,000 W. This need can be satisfied by installing 4 convectors of 2.5 kW each and 1 convector of 2 kW. The cost of the equipment is approximately 1300 - 1500 USD. This is significantly less than installing water heating with a gas boiler, but it is much less economical when paying for energy.

The disadvantage of using electric convectors is uneven heating of the room: it is cold near the floor, and hot air accumulates near the ceiling. To evenly warm the room, you can additionally install a “warm floor” system.

Diagram of a heating system for a private house with liquid coolant

Water heating system can be single-circuit or double-circuit. The single-circuit one is used only for heating, and the double-circuit one is used for heating and heating water for household needs. In practice, in private homes, two single-circuit systems are most often installed: one is purely for heating water, the second is for heating. This is also convenient because the second boiler does not work during the non-heating season.

Based on the principle of water movement in the system, one-pipe, two-pipe and collector systems are distinguished.

Single pipe water heating system

In a single-pipe system, water passes sequentially from one radiator to another. At the same time, in each subsequent radiator the coolant temperature will be lower and lower. In the latter, it may not be sufficient to heat the room. This system is practically impossible to adjust, since by blocking access to one radiator, water access to all the others will be blocked. Also, if one radiator fails, you will have to completely turn off the system, bleed the water, and only then replace it with a new one or repair it.

Two-pipe water heating system

A two-pipe system can heat a house more efficiently, since two pipes connect to each radiator: one with hot water, and through the other, cooled water leaves. In this case, the hot water pipe is connected to all radiators in parallel. If you install taps in front of each radiator, you can disconnect any radiator from the system. In the last radiator, to which the hot water pipe is connected, the temperature will be lower than in the first, but the losses will be insignificant compared to a single-pipe system.

Collector water heating system

The collector system means that pipes go from the collector to each radiator separately: one with hot water, the other returns cooled water. This system allows you to regulate the temperature in any room, as well as easily replace or repair any part of the system without turning off the heating. The collector system is the most progressive. Its only drawback: additional installation of a manifold cabinet and high pipe consumption.

Installation of a heating system for a private house

First of all, you should decide which heating system is best for a particular house. The most optimal solution would be to install a system for which the energy carrier is more accessible and economical; economical heating of a private home is very important for many. For example, if gas is supplied to the house, then you can install a water heating system with two boilers: one - gas (main), the second - electric (spare) or solid fuel, so that in case of force majeure it is completely energy independent.

At the next stage, you should contact the design bureau, where they will make the appropriate calculations, draw up design documentation and heating drawings for a private house. Only after this can you purchase the necessary equipment and materials.

The first step is to install the heating boiler. For any boilers that contain combustion products, except electric ones, it is necessary to equip a boiler room. This is a separate room, or a room in the basement, in which there is good ventilation. The boiler is installed at a distance from the walls to ensure easy access. The floor and walls around the boiler are lined with fireproof material. A chimney is led from the boiler to the street.

Further installation of heating in a private house involves installing a circulation pump (if necessary), a distribution manifold (if provided by the system), measuring and control devices near the boiler.

Only then do pipeline lines lead from the boiler to the radiator installation sites. To pass pipes through the walls, you will have to make holes in them, which, after the pipes have been pulled through, must be covered with cement mortar. Pipe connections are made based on the material they are made of.

Radiators are installed last. They are installed on brackets under the window opening. If the size of the radiator is not enough to cover the opening, you should install two radiators or build up sections, if possible. The distance from the floor should be 10 - 12 cm, from the wall 2 - 5 cm, and from the window sill to the radiator - 10 cm. We install shut-off and control fittings and temperature sensors at the inlet and outlet of the radiator so that you can regulate the temperature and block the movement of water.

After installing all structural elements, the system is pressure tested. The first start-up of the boiler is possible only in the presence of a representative of the gas organization.

In conclusion, I would like to note that it is better to choose a heating system taking into account two factors: the availability and low cost of energy and the autonomy of the system in the event of force majeure. Installing a heating system in a private home is such a responsible and complex task that it is not recommended to do it yourself. At least the most important thing is that the calculations, diagrams and design should be carried out by professionals. And to save money, you can try to install the system elements yourself, but under the strict guidance of a specialist.