When installing a sewer system for a private home, it is very important to do everything correctly right away.
Several main dangers await the sewer pipeline from the outside:
- freezing,
- compression and constriction,
- clogged with sediment.
Exposure to high temperatures of boiling water, chemical attack, bioinversion by bacteria, etc. may also be involved.
And the external sewage system must withstand all this for many years. Repairing it is a very expensive and time-consuming procedure, because the pipes themselves will be hidden under a layer of fertile sediment, and there will be something growing above them.
Selection of diameters for external sewer lines
As a rule, for a private house where up to 10 people live, an external sewer pipeline diameter of 110 mm will be sufficient.
The external sewer pipeline must be laid at such an angle and such a diameter that its degree of filling periodically reaches 0.3 - 0.6 of the cross-sectional area.
For operating conditions of a private house, this is usually achieved with diameters of 110 mm.
The throughput of a pipe is directly proportional to the square of its diameter (and not the diameter itself). Therefore, a 160 mm pipe will pass 2.1 times more than a 110 mm pipe, and not 1.5 times.
Suitable material for pipes used in soil
Recently, metal pipes have been massively replaced by pipes made of polymers. Cast iron pipes are heavy and expensive. They are susceptible to corrosion, deposits easily accumulate inside them, and docking is difficult. Polymer ones, on the other hand, are lightweight, durable, and smooth.
The most common sewer pipes are made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC). Their service life is about 100 years, they have the lowest coefficient of thermal expansion. They're cheap. Their joining is unproblematic - a simple insertion on the rubber cuff located in the socket. For example, installation of polyethylene pipes requires welding and special expensive equipment.
The user has a wide range of options when selecting pipes for external sewerage. For these purposes, he can use cast iron, steel, polyethylene, polybutylene, polypropylene, and polyvinyl chloride (PVC) on his patrimony.
Also, polymer pipes can be reinforced with metal - metal-plastic pipes.
But the essence of solving sewer problems also lies in the design of the pipe.
Corrugated pipes based on polyethylene or propylene are particularly flexible. Ability to withstand ground pressure and freezing without problems.
They are preferred in many cases, especially if there is slight directional curvature.
Depth of the sewer pipeline
There are special maps of soil freezing depth in different areas.
As you can see, the depth of soil freezing is very significant. But in practice, it is usually less - it depends on the specific temperature, the duration of its exposure, and the thickness of the snow cover.
The depth of the external sewer pipeline in practice is a difficult choice. After all, its increase very rapidly and apocalyptically increases costs, and entails the deepening of purification and infiltration systems.
In addition, sewage disposal vehicles do not pump deeper than 3 meters. Construction is also often carried out on uneven ground, where the height of the soil above the pipeline can fluctuate significantly.
The location of the pipeline below the standard depth of soil freezing - deeper than 0.7 - 1.0 meters - is simply impossible in most cases due to technical conditions, break-even and greed.
Usually, some theoretical risk of freezing in winter is accepted, placing the pipeline in a freezing part of the ground, taking measures to insulate it.
How the sewage system freezes, what to do to prevent it from happening with your own hands
The sewer pipeline is almost never completely filled - only its lower part is filled. It is in this part that freezing of waste water occurs to cooled water below 0 degrees. walls.
Local ice appears. Gradually, a more significant congestion forms and freezing occurs over a larger area. The ice that appears below increases its thickness due to the formation already at the point of contact. The process progresses until it completely overlaps.
The intensity of the pipeline freezing process from the inside will directly depend on the rate of heat transfer through the wall, between the liquid and the soil. It is critically reduced by thousands of times with the use of a body insulator on pipes.
And also the rate of freezing will depend on the amount of energy entering the pipeline (amount of liquid and its temperature).
If there is very little drainage, then freezing will occur as quickly as possible. And if liquid is constantly moving through the pipeline, then most likely it will not freeze, even if it is in the open air.
Thus, in the southernmost regions, you can lay a pipeline at a depth of 0.5 meters without insulation and hope that it will not freeze over.
In most cases, according to the design or operating experience, the pipeline needs to be insulated.
Thermal insulation
Extruded polystyrene foam has proven itself to be the most reliable and suitable insulation material.
To insulate the pipeline, a special “shell” made of polystyrene foam is available for sale, consisting of two halves of standard diameters. Expanded polystyrene is simply put on the pipe and fixed with glue.
This insulation is strong, practically does not absorb water, and is durable and effective (with a low thermal conductivity coefficient). It can also be reused.
It is better not to use mineral wool - they become damp, despite any vapor barrier. You shouldn’t look for cheap, unreliable options either, due to the importance of the issue (frozen sewers in winter for many women seem like the apocalypse has already arrived).
The heat source for the pipeline can be not only wastewater, but also electrical energy. There are self-regulating heating cables that begin to pass current automatically as soon as the temperature drops to zero.
Such a cable is laid directly under the pipeline and covered with it with a layer of insulation. If the temperature on the pipe wall becomes zero or negative, the cable will turn on and heat the pipeline. The solution is almost ideal, if only not for the additional costs.
Some homeowners, when severe frost sets in, periodically pour salted boiling water into non-metallic drains. Temperature and salt destroy ice plugs and the shallowly buried pipeline remains functional throughout the winter.
A complete solution to the issue, without subsequent worries and costs, is to insulate the soil containing the sewerage system. But this method is practically not used due to the cost and alienation of significant areas on a personal plot.
Such insulation requires calculations. The width of the insulation strip, the thickness of the thermal insulator, the depth of laying, the depth of soil freezing, the composition of the soil, its density, water content are taken into account... In principle, the wider the strip of heat insulation and the deeper its placement, the warmer it will be in the pipe area.
For long pipelines, according to the project, it is necessary to solve the problem of freezing, either by thermal inversion from electrical heating, or by increasing the temperature of the surrounding soils, by thermally insulating them from the cold source.
An approximate diagram of soil insulation above the pipeline is shown in the figure.
How to make a trench
Placing a sewer pipeline in a trench
It is necessary to ensure that the pipeline rests on sand along its entire length, and not just in places of thickening (places where individual parts are joined).
If the pipeline is quite long (more than 15 meters), then it is preferable to install an inspection well along its length. At this point in the pipeline, an inspection is installed - a coupling with a window for cleaning the pipeline, which is hermetically sealed with a lid.
More often, inspection wells are formed with reinforced concrete rings, as shown in the figure.
The construction of inspection wells (concrete walls or brick walls, floor slab with a sealed lid on top) is quite expensive. It is recommended to design short, straight drain lines.
The pipeline is laid on a bedding and filled with fine soil, without including stones, or sand to a level of 10 cm above the pipeline. Fine soil is watered and compacted.
In order to prevent subsidence of the pipeline in parts, or excessive soil pressure on the pipeline, it is recommended to carefully and tightly compact the backfill and soil after the initial backfilling of the pipeline. The final backfilling of the trench is carried out only on soil compacted around the pipeline.
Connection of sewer pipes
PVC pipelines are the easiest to install.
Connecting pipes made of other materials may require special equipment and the involvement of specialists, as welding may be necessary.
To install PVC pipes, you only need a hacksaw and a file (sharpener) for chamfering.
The pipes are connected by inserting them into sockets with rubber seals. During installation, thermal gaps are left (pipes are not inserted all the way, but leaving an empty space of 0.5 cm).
If necessary, pipes are cut to the required length, taking into account the installation size in the sockets. After sawing, the pipes are chamfered. The seal in the socket is sealed with silicone sealant.
The inserted part of the pipe is lubricated with liquid soap (soap solution, glycerin). The pipe is then inserted into the joint. To simplify the operation, you can use a lever mechanism/
The installation of a sewer system in a private house begins with the layout and installation diagram. This allows you to arrange all the plumbing fixtures as conveniently as possible, make the correct slope, and accurately calculate all consumables.
As a result, the system will work uninterruptedly, and if one of the elements breaks or becomes clogged, everything can be quickly and easily repaired. In this article we will tell you how to correctly draw up plans for internal and external (external) sewerage for a private home or country house, what is the optimal depth for laying sewer pipes and what consumables should be used when constructing and installing an autonomous system with your own hands in the house and outside.
Drawing up a diagram starts from the farthest plumbing fixture in the attic or upper floor. All horizontal lines must be reduced to one riser. To save money and consumables, bathrooms on different tiers are placed along the same vertical line.
The sewage system in the house consists of:
- Water seals that prevent odors from entering the room;
- Drains from all plumbing;
- Pipes leading wastewater into the external sewer system;
- Elbows and tees connecting pipes into a single system;
- Clamps in walls that support pipes and give them direction and angle of inclination.
- Central riser.
It is important that there is no transition in the house from a larger diameter sewer to a smaller one. Therefore, in the diagram, the toilet should be located as close as possible to the riser.
Accurate drawing of the internal system depends on the number of floors of the building, the presence of a basement, the amount of plumbing used and the number of users. The depth of the septic tank and connection to additional equipment (pumping station or separately for each device) also matter.
On the diagram all elements should be displayed to scale so that in the event of a planned repair or emergency, you can quickly understand the wiring and find the breakdown.
External line
External sewerage starts with the pipeline from the foundation. The wastewater is discharged to a septic tank, cesspool or filter structure. At each turn of the pipe, revisions are installed (adapters with covers, with which you can quickly clear the blockage). There is also an inspection well and a ventilation hood located outside.
Ventilation is removed from the riser through a fan pipe. Due to strong foreign odors, it cannot be installed near windows, with access to the yard or near smokers. Categorically it is prohibited to connect it to a regular ventilation shaft. Instead of an umbrella, you can use a special vacuum valve at the top of the riser (not to be confused with a check valve!).
Advantages and disadvantages of different types of tanks
The final element of the system is a storage and cleaning tank. In the absence of a central collector for collecting drains, autonomous installations are used.
- cesspool. It is easy to organize on site and is the cheapest option. But it cannot cope with large volumes of wastewater. There is a possibility of dirt getting into groundwater and causing an unpleasant odor.
- Do-it-yourself septic tank made of brick filled with concrete or ready-made reinforced concrete stakes c. It performs its functions well, is durable and strong. The disadvantages include long installation times and serious construction costs.
- Industrial off-grid installation. Such a septic tank is more expensive, but the costs are covered due to the speed of construction, high quality and long-term operation of the equipment.
- Biological treatment station. The most expensive option, requiring constant electricity. It features the highest degree of purification and high productivity.
Consumables, calculation and prices
You definitely need to decide on the volume of the septic tank. The calculation is carried out taking into account that Each resident of the house uses 200 liters of water per day. The wastewater in the septic tank settles for 3 days. Based on these data, we obtain the exact size of the waste tank.
So, a family of 4 consumes 800 liters. In three days, 2400 liters are accumulated. Means, you need to select a septic tank of exactly this volume. If desired, you can make a small reserve in case the tank is maximally loaded. Septic tanks with such parameters cost from 20 thousand rubles.
Main fittings:
- Crosses for connecting 4 sections at an angle (80-100 rubles).
- Tees with a side section at 45 or 90 degrees.
- Elbow for connecting pipes with different heights (RUB 450/piece).
- Straight-line double-sided coupling with rubber cuffs in sockets (from 30 rubles).
- Revision (60 rub.)
- reduction of various parameters (from 40 rubles/piece)
- Hood hood (from 50 RUR)
Before you begin to equip a sewer system, you must carefully familiarize yourself with the basic requirements put forward to it. As we will tell you in a special review.
Water can be not only beneficial, but also harmful to the human body. Find out which coarse filter is best for your summer cottage.
Optimal slope and depth during construction
According to the recommendations of SNiP for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, a stable 3 cm is made for each meter of installation. With a cross-section of 100 mm, this value can be reduced to 2 cm. In order to avoid blockages and “greasy” sewage in the kitchen, it is advisable to increase the slope by 0.5-1 cm for each meter of wiring.
When installing on a plot of land, the same angle of inclination is maintained. The sleeve (a pipe with a larger diameter than the main pipeline, protruding 15 cm from each end) is installed in a hole made in the foundation. It provides a transition to the external sewerage system, and located 30 cm above the soil freezing level.
Burying pipes below the freezing level (on average it is 1.6 m) is unprofitable– you will have to make a very deep septic tank. If a constant slope is maintained, this will be 4-5 m, where groundwater may already appear. The cost increases due to additional concrete rings and more durable (corrugated) pipes that can withstand both the pressure of the drain and the weight of the soil.
The drain temperature is usually above room temperature, which prevents freezing, and if desired, thermal insulation or insulation with a heating cable can be used.
Selection of pipes and diameters
Pipes are used to drain wastewater from plumbing fixtures diameter 5 cm. The pipe from the toilet should have a cross-section of 10-11 cm, which will help avoid blockages.
To organize a sewer system in a private house, pipes can be used cast iron, reinforced concrete or plastic. The latter are more acceptable due to their strength, durability, corrosion resistance and smooth surface.
External (PVC)
Designed for external networks. They are distinguished by their characteristic orange or yellow-brown color. Despite their relative cheapness, these pipes have sufficient strength, which allows their use for both external and hidden installation. For them, cold welding is recommended. All turns are made using fittings and bends.
Internal (polypropylene)
For internal communications they are light gray in color and have different technical parameters, depending on the manufacturer and model. Their common features:
- Single or multi-layer.
- Foam propylene is protected by an aluminum coating and a polymer layer.
- The connection is made by welding or using special fittings.
Rules for the design and installation of an external system
Briefly, the instructions on how to properly make a local autonomous sewage system in a private country house (dacha) with your own hands look like this:
- Mechanical or manual excavation of a trench.
- Formation of a sand cushion.
- Layout of all component elements (pipeline, trays, fittings).
- Connection of fragments, starting from the exit from the internal sewer. For greater reliability The fastening points are treated with silicone sealant.
- Testing the tightness of connections at maximum load.
- Backfill the trench, trying to compact sand or soil only on the sides of the pipe, avoiding sudden loads at right angles. Thickness of sand backfill - not less than 15 cm.
For pipeline turns, shaped parts for external utility networks are used. If the distance from the foundation to the septic tank is more than 10-12 m, it makes sense to equip the area with an intermediate inspection well.
This video shows how to properly make a sewer system for a private home, as well as how to lay pipes yourself:
How to properly install a sewer system in a private house, do everything according to the diagram yourself and lay the pipes for the system without errors? Installation of the sewer system will be of better quality if follow several instructions:
When installing sewerage it is important to take into account every nuance: placement of plumbing fixtures, topography of the site, location of the intake manifold or septic tank, depth of pipe laying and angle of inclination.
Only with careful charting, careful planning and order By installing a sewerage system in a private house or country house with your own hands, you can guarantee that the system will not freeze in the middle of winter and will drain waste well without creating additional problems in the house and on the property.
Before laying sewer pipes in a private house, it is necessary to develop an installation project in advance, since it is necessary to provide for the use of a minimum number of pipelines and wiring throughout the entire site. This is necessary in order to save your material costs and increase the efficiency of the system. At this stage, you need to design the structure in a timely manner, obtain the necessary amount of information and knowledge about which do-it-yourself sewer pipe installation is correct.
The first steps that need to be taken before laying sewer pipes in a private house
Before drawing up a diagram (project), be sure to answer the following questions:
- How many people live in the house on a permanent basis?
- What on-site treatment facility will you use?
- Will you install the system yourself or through specialists?
After answering all the questions, think over all water intake points and plan their compact placement. Create the simplest possible sewage drainage design by organizing the reception of wastewater into a common riser. If your house has several floors, then install plumbing fixtures so that they are located one above the other, so that it is possible to drain wastewater into one riser that passes through all floors.
Next, your next main step is to choose a location for installing a local treatment plant to which the pipeline from the house will be connected. We recommend that you remove the septic tank no more than 5 m from the house. Place it as far as possible from the well from which you collect drinking water (a distance of at least 30 m). Do not locate the cleaning station next to your neighbors’ fence (at least 2 m distance). Additionally, take into account in advance that you will need to drive up to the septic tank once or twice a year.
It is unthinkable to consider the water supply of a residential property without installing a wastewater disposal system. Therefore, even before construction, you need to decide where and how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and how to arrange the external pipeline.
We will tell you how to lay sewer pipes within the building and around the site. We will show you how to assemble the system and fasten its components. The article we propose provides installation rules and building codes, and describes the technology for performing internal wiring.
Without preliminary drawing up of a wastewater drainage there can be no talk of construction. A carefully thought-out, drawn up scheme will allow for rational use of capital investments.
In addition, thanks to the preliminary drawing up of the building's sewerage diagram, more opportunities open up for achieving the required efficiency of the system.
Example of an installation diagram: mk – sink; ks – riser; un – toilet (bidet); mind is the sink of the washbasin; vn - bath, 50 and 110 - diameters of pipelines of horizontal lines and riser lines; 1 – siphon with cleaning; 2 – bath siphon with overflow; 3 – square; 4 – tee; 5 – cross; 6 – adapter
The main criteria for drawing up a diagram are usually considered to be:
- the number of people on the territory of a residential property;
- proposed technology for processing (purification) of sewage waste;
- wiring of external wastewater disposal lines;
- layout of internal collection and drainage lines.
Having decided on the main points of construction, they calculate the number of system components, including the footage of sewer pipes, and draw up a sketch of the project.
An example of drawing up a sketch of a home sewer system for two adjacent units: 1 – sink; 2 – toilet; 3 – washbasin; 4 – bath; 5 – plumbing pipeline. The sketch also marks the distances between the components (a, b, c, d)
Pipe layout for a one-story house
Considering the availability of lightweight and a complete set of installation fittings on the market, it is quite affordable to build a sewerage system in a private house yourself. However, without consulting specialists and referring to established standards, it is not easy to build a high-quality sewer system.
Scheme of a sewer network with output to a septic tank: 1 – riser; general disposal of waste products; 3 – compensating air outlet; 4 – septic tank; 5 – treated wastewater; 6 – additional final filtration
The classic sewer scheme in general contains:
- sewer riser;
- pipes connecting the internal components of the system;
- external pipeline discharging general waste;
- receiver system.
According to existing standards for the layout of a one-story building, the areas closest to the external point of drainage are the plumbing fixtures of the kitchen and sanitary unit.
The wall separating these two rooms of the house is considered the installation site for the riser pipeline. The area of the lower point of the riser pipe is diverted to the external main, and the upper point is diverted to the roof.
Part of the general wiring in a private house - an example of the practical implementation of building an internal horizontal network based on popular polypropylene pipes and other components
The most remote plumbing fixture in the utility area is connected to the riser by a pipeline of smaller diameter and taking into account a slope towards the riser of 1.5-2º. The formation rules are given in the article we recommend.
The laid line is used to connect other plumbing fixtures in the utility and technical area. The closest appliance to the riser is traditionally the toilet.
Thus, a gravity flow diagram of a one-story private building is created. However, not in every case of installation of a plumbing network it is possible to organize a gravity circuit. Then the problem is solved by introducing additional equipment into the circuit - a pump.
Pipeline in a 2-3-story building
The structure of a private house on two or three floors is characterized by the arrangement of several economic and technical zones. Moreover, the arrangement of such zones is provided for on each of the existing floors. Accordingly, in such conditions it seems like a somewhat more complicated schematic option compared to the first one - a one-story house.
Classic wiring for buildings with two or more floors: 1- centralized collector; 2 – inspection well; 3 – riser; 4, 5 – revisions; 6 – check valve; 7 – forced movement of wastewater at the basement level
Standards and rules for the construction of multi-storey buildings regulate the construction of premises of the same type in terms of functionality at a single vertical level. Therefore, the sewerage scheme in this case, for example, concerning toilet rooms, provides wiring for rooms located one above the other.
The riser pipe, intended for multi-storey buildings, is passed through all floors and brought to the roof level, taking into account an additional rise of 0.3 m or higher if the roof is not in use.
For the option with a used roof, this parameter is at least 1.5 m. For pitched roofs (a popular design for private houses), the riser outlet is made to a height of 0.5 m from the level of the roof ridge.
Also, the design of multi-storey buildings provides for the use of compensating elements at the points where the pipeline passes through the floors.
Accordingly, transitions through the ceilings are made waterproof and sound-absorbing, equipped with special fire-proof cuffs.
A practical example of securing polypropylene pipelines, including sewer system risers, using special clamps. As you can see, the fastening necessarily involves the use of rubber pads
The riser pipe is fixed directly to the wall using metal clamps with rubber linings. Guidelines for choosing sewer pipes for internal wiring, we recommend reading useful information.
The fastening is carried out without tight tightening - overhead, to ensure natural free movement of the pipe vertically. The lower part of the riser is led through an outlet to the external sewer line.
What you need to know about pipe laying?
Traditionally, drainage lines from plumbing fixtures such as sinks, bathtubs, and utility sinks are made using pipelines with a diameter of 50 mm. Toilet discharge channels require a larger pipe diameter - 110 mm.
At the present stage, polypropylene pipes are traditionally used for the construction of internal sewer lines. However, depending on the specific project and the load (throughput) capabilities of the sewer network, different diameters of linear pipelines and risers can be used.
The table below shows the possible options.
In any case, the diameter of the riser pipe for the sewerage system of a private house is always assumed to be equal to or greater than the largest floor drain in diameter
Gravity pipelines of horizontal lines with a diameter of 40-50 mm are installed, observing the norm of a uniform slope equal to 0.03 m per 1 m of length.
Gravity pipelines with a diameter of 85 and 110 mm are laid, observing a uniform slope norm of 0.02 mm per 1 m of length. The maximum permissible slope angle is not more than 0.15 mm for the entire length of a separately installed sewer section.
The use of plumbing crosses and tees is a convenient method for laying pipelines. In addition, thanks to these circuit elements, cross-country ability is created with a lower drag coefficient
Direct connections between the outlet lines and the riser are made using tees and crosses at angles of 45º or 60º. Executing the scheme in this way allows you to avoid clogging of pipelines during operation.
The scheme and apartment necessarily provide for the introduction of revisions (cleaning) at points in the line where there is a high risk of blockages.
For a circuit in a private house, the location of such circuit elements is shown in the table below:
Sewer construction procedure
Let us briefly consider the main stages of constructing a sewer pipeline in a private home. Even if you do not decide to carry out the work on your own, you will be able to control the hired specialists.
Stage #1 – installation of the yard network
The creation of a sewer system begins with the stage of constructing an external (yard) network. If the length of the yard network to the existing one is more than 12 meters, an additional inspection well is installed. In this case, the minimum permissible distance from the wall of the house to the inspection well is 3 - 5 m.
You will be introduced to the methods of constructing the outer part of the pipeline and the rules for laying sewer pipes in the ground, which we highly recommend reading.
In the laying of external sewer lines they are now mainly used, which are attractive due to their light weight, excellent performance characteristics and affordable price. When laying a route above the seasonal freezing level, they are used to protect the lines from the formation of ice jams.
Often, owners of private buildings have to deal with the lack of a centralized sewerage network. In this case, an autonomous system for collecting and filtering wastewater is installed (). However, the principle of the “external internal network” connection remains the same.
One of the simple and convenient solutions for private households is a sealed septic tank. True, its significant drawback lies in the rather high price, so not every home owner decides to pay for its purchase.
Stage #2 – construction of the house entry point
Next, you need to build an input unit directly in the structure of a private house (foundation, basement wall). The construction of the unit is carried out taking into account possible deformations, for example, due to subsidence of the structure.
The input unit and the external pipeline are reliably insulated.
Input device diagram (one of the possible): 1 – crumpled clay; 2 – cement-based mortar; 3 – resin strand; 4 – sleeve based on steel pipe
Stage #3 – installation of risers and bends
At the next stage, the installation of riser pipes of the internal network is carried out. It is recommended that these circuit components be assembled and pre-installed in assembled form without fastening or with partial fastening.
Full fastening is carried out after final assembly of the entire system. Having completed the installation of riser pipes, horizontal sewerage drain lines are built taking into account the required slopes.
The process of building horizontal internal drain lines involves laying sockets and fittings in the direction opposite the flow of wastewater.
Stage #4 - connecting plumbing
At the final stage, each device is connected to the corresponding outlet through a siphon pipe.
It is advisable to provide outlets in advance for connecting the drain of such important assistants as a washing machine, dishwasher
Additionally, it is worth noting: provided the building height is less than 10 meters, the internal sewer system can be built on the basis of free-flow pipes. At higher altitudes, pressure pipes are used.
Conclusions and useful video on the topic
Below is a video demonstration of the practice of laying out and laying a pipeline network, taking into account the construction of a private house. Full installation cycle, including testing the system in the simplest ways.
Knowing the procedure for arranging a system for draining wastewater from a house, you can try to build a sewer system yourself. True, at the stage of laying the pipeline from the outside, assistance will be required to bury the pipes in the ground.
If in doubt, it is better to contact a company with a good reputation and positive recommendations from your friends. Then the sewer system will be designed correctly and will serve your family for decades.
Please leave comments in the block below. Share useful information, photos and your own experience gained in the field of installation or repair of a sewer pipeline. Ask questions about controversial, interesting or unclear points.
1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
Arranging a suburban area is not an easy task. In the process of building a house and various life support systems, various questions constantly arise. The very first and extremely important issue is the creation of a sewerage system: at the construction stage it may simply be absent, and this will immediately have a negative impact on comfort. This article will describe in detail how to lay a sewer system in a private house.
Often, homeowners turn to specialists for sewer installation. Of course, this option is always possible, but the cost of such services will be very high. A much more profitable solution could be to lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands: you will have to try, but there will not be any particular difficulties along the way.
To make a decision about laying a sewer system, you must first solve one important problem - find out whether there is a centralized sewer system nearby. Its presence will greatly simplify all processes associated with the arrangement of sewage systems. To connect to the main network, you will need to figure out what pipes are needed, how to connect them, and how the connection to the centralized system is made.
In any case, the greatest efforts will have to be made to arrange the external sewage system: digging trenches is a rather labor-intensive task. In addition, all trenches must have sufficient depth, exceeding the depth of soil freezing in the region (more details: ""). The average depth of trenches usually varies from 0.5 to 1.5 meters.
Insufficient depth of the pipeline will bring a lot of troubles in the very near future: as soon as frost sets in, the drains in the pipes will freeze and the pipes will burst due to increased pressure. And it is almost impossible to repair them in winter; you will have to wait for warmer weather. And you won’t be able to use the sewer all this time.
To avoid such problems, you should carefully read this article, from which you can learn how to install sewerage in a private house with your own hands. In addition, we will rather talk about the arrangement of a local autonomous sewer system, which is excellent for areas remote from the main sewer system (more details: " ").
Types of autonomous sewer systems in a private house
There are several types of local sewage systems:- Cesspool.
- Septic tank.
- Biological treatment station.
In any case, before installing any type of sewer system, it is necessary to conduct a geological survey of the site, and then choosing a design will be easier, and the standards for laying sewer systems will become clearer. The easiest way to build a drainage pit is from the bricks used to build the walls of the structure. Red bricks are best.
A strong argument in favor of a septic tank is the recycling of wastewater, which reduces the frequency of calling sewer trucks to clean the storage facility. In modern septic tanks, the number of chambers is usually between 2-3, which allows for a high degree of sewage water purification. Built-in aeration elements and biofilters can work for quite a long time, so there are practically no problems with septic tanks.
How to lay a sewer - procedure
To ensure that sewerage wiring in a private house does not cause difficulties, it is necessary to draw up a clear action plan:- The first step is to find a suitable location for the waste storage tank. Mandatory condition: the tank must be lower than the level of the sewerage outlet from the building.
- In parallel with the first point, a location for the collector to exit the house is selected.
- The selected sewage outlet from the building must be selected very carefully: it is necessary to understand that all wastewater will pass through this section, so the load will be large. In addition, there must be some space in this place for the collector to be installed correctly (without corners or deviations).
- After preliminary preparation, it is necessary to begin creating a high-quality and accurate sewer system design. There is an important nuance here: it is advisable to minimize the number of corners and turns. The external sewerage system should be as straight as possible, and the internal sewerage system must have corners and bends. These rules for laying sewerage in a private house must be followed so as not to experience problems with a lack of material or a poorly functioning system in the future.
- When the sewerage project is ready, you can start purchasing materials and tools (if necessary).
- If you have all the necessary elements, you can begin arranging external and internal sewage systems.
Installation of an external sewer system
Laying sewerage in the ground requires a large amount of excavation work. Of course, in some cases everything is simplified due to the presence of the old design. If the sewer system has already been built and only needs to be replaced, then there will be no special problems: it is enough to simply remove the old pipes and install new ones.
But most often the sewer system has to be completely redone. There is nothing wrong with this, although there will be a lot of work: you need to raise the floors and deepen the structure to a suitable depth (if necessary). To perform such an operation, it is necessary to dig a hole under the foundation, which will allow you to measure the depth of the foundation itself. As a rule, this value exceeds 1 meter, and this depth is quite sufficient for the normal functioning of the sewer system.
Having arranged the outlet, a trench is dug leading to a reservoir for storing and processing wastewater. The trench along its entire length should have a constant slope, and the depth will gradually increase towards the collector.
Laying sewer pipes with your own hands
For proper operation of the sewerage system, two pipeline branches are required: external and internal. To lay external sewer pipes, it is necessary to properly prepare the trench: its bottom is covered with a layer of sand, which is compacted. After compaction, the thickness of the sand cushion should be about 20 cm. This will prevent excessive soil pressure on the pipeline.Installation of internal sewerage in a private house involves taking into account the number of plumbing fixtures. When installing a large number of plumbing fixtures, the outlet pipe must have a diameter of 100 mm or more. In addition, you need to understand that most outlet channels are made of 50 mm pipes, so you will have to connect pipelines of different diameters.
Of course, this is not a particular problem, since you can purchase ready-made adapters on the market that allow you to create the highest quality and tight connection. When installing the structure, you should pay attention to the quality of the seals: they should not have defects, otherwise sewer leaks cannot be avoided.
The riser in the house must be equipped with an inspection, and the height of its installation must exceed 1 meter from the level of the floor covering. The structure is also equipped with a ventilation outlet, which is mounted on the roof (the distance from the roof should be more than 0.7 m). If there is no ventilation, then characteristic sewer odors may arise in the house, which will negatively affect comfort.
When installing a riser in a cold room, you need to take care of insulation. To connect the riser to the outside of the sewer, a special outlet of smaller diameter is used. This outlet is mounted at a large angle - from 90 degrees. The connection between the risers is usually made by two bends with an angle of 135 degrees. An additional riser will require a 45-degree tee and an additional branch. When building it yourself, it would be better to avoid such difficulties by installing a single riser or collector.
Conclusion
This article answers the question “how to lay a sewer system in a private house?” If all the work is done correctly, the sewer system will delight residents with its work for a long time.