The seedlings froze. The soul sinks at such news, and the heart is filled with anger. After all, weather forecasters promised that the cold weather had finally receded, and the rest of spring would bring sunny and warm weather. The seedlings grown on the windowsill or purchased at the market have settled in the garden bed, and new leaves have appeared here and there.

Even a greenhouse will not save the plants if the air temperature drops below - 7°C. But don’t give in to despondency and start digging up the beds. And let the sellers at the market not rejoice at unexpected profits. Frozen tomato seedlings can be revived in several ways.

Method one - treatment with Epin

"Epin" saved many tomato seedlings in situations where the death of the plant was no longer in doubt. Russian scientists have developed a drug that strengthens the immunity of vegetable crops. A biostimulant and adaptogen, it works effectively in stressful situations. It has proven itself to be effective in freezing tomato seedlings.

Biostimulants are unsafe for the human body; treatment should be done with gloves and a mask. After completion of work, the empty ampoule is disposed of in accordance with the instructions. The working solution is stored for about two days in a dark place.

Do not exceed the concentration of the working solution. Add one ampoule of “Epin” to five liters of water and mix thoroughly.
Acidify the prepared mixture. A pinch of citric acid is enough.
You can process seedlings only in the early morning or late evening. A daytime procedure will not give the desired results.
Moisten the soil under the plants.

Method two - pour water

If the frost was minus 6-7°C, the tomato stems become covered with a crust of ice, and resuscitation is meaningless. Did the air temperature drop below minus 2-3°C? This means you can do the dousing procedure. Lost moisture is returned to the plant and sap flow is stimulated as follows:

you need to prepare several buckets of cold water;
It is necessary to water only before sunrise;
carefully treat each plant; drops of water should remain on the fibers.

It is advisable to take water from a natural reservoir (river, lake, pond) or well. Tap water is saturated with excess impurities that will only harm the weakened plant.

Tomato seedlings are velvety to the touch, the stem is covered with many bristles. And each of them retains a drop of moisture on its surface. It is difficult to notice with the naked eye. After dousing, the stem and leaves should not be touched.

Method three - pruning

This method is radical, but at the same time the most effective. Before throwing away seedlings, experienced gardeners always give them a chance. Has the entire plant died completely or just its above-ground part? Is it possible to save it? It is difficult to determine this visually. To answer this question, the following activities are carried out:

With a sharp tool you need to cut off the dead parts of tomato seedlings to the soil level;
fertilize with high-quality fertilizer (cow manure);
If seedlings on open ground are frozen, it is necessary to build a greenhouse over them.

Now we just have to wait a few days. Stepchildren will grow, which, with proper care, will give a good harvest. It will be a couple of weeks later, but in terms of effectiveness it will be no less than what would be removed from the main tomato seedlings.

Tomatoes reproduce well vegetatively. For those of them that survived the frost test, you can cut off the dead roots. New roots will soon appear in a container of water, and then powerful roots will form. The plant is ready for another planting in the ground.

It is possible to revive tomato seedlings using this method under one condition - a sufficient length of the stem underground, that is, if the “deep planting” method was used, when part of the plant is deliberately buried.

Method four - hide from the sun

This method can save not severely damaged seedlings, but only slightly wilted ones. It should not be blackened or icy. Be sure to create sun protection over the beds before sunrise. Time will not work against the gardener if you take care of the materials in advance.

Large pieces of cardboard can be used to create shadows. A temporary greenhouse would also work well. With this method of resuscitation, additional treatment with a biostimulant will give tomato seedlings a better chance of survival.

Then the seedlings will not immediately fall under its destructive rays. It will thaw gradually. In this case, the moisture remaining on the villi does not dry out, but remains on the stem and leaves. By evening they will take their original appearance.

When one of the methods does not help, the blackened tomato seedlings have not shown signs of life, you should not despair. Agronomists and gardeners with experience do not give up at the first failure, do not pick up hoes and shovels, but try all options. Perhaps they know that at the slightest opportunity, tomato seedlings will come to life. You just need to give her this opportunity.

It's a shame that the vagaries of the weather ruined all your hard work? Has purchasing seedlings made a significant hole in the family budget? There is no time for grudges. It's time to roll up your sleeves and take action.

Tomatoes are a whimsical plant. And the basis for successfully obtaining a future harvest is laid precisely during the formation of the bush, even before it is planted in open or protected ground. With great diligence, you can grow healthy, productive bushes from weak seedlings, but it is almost impossible to do this from sick seedlings. That's why it's so important to see the first signs of their ill health. Understanding the causes and taking emergency resuscitation measures can save the future harvest.

There can be many of them, and not all of them indicate that the bush is dying irrevocably. To find out the true cause, you may have to sacrifice one seedling, carefully remove it from the ground along with the roots and take a good look at the plant from the root to the very top in good lighting.

The appearance of the plant usually gives a clue as to what exactly caused the wilting. By and large, there can be two of them - care errors and infectious contamination. You should know that diseases are also often the result of errors in living conditions.

Causes associated with improper care

Unsuitable soil

One of the common reasons for poor health of seedlings is increased acidity and excessive soil density. In this case, an urgent transplant to another soil is required, otherwise the plants will die. In addition, any soil, incl. and ready-made purchased soil requires preliminary disinfection. There are several methods - watering with boiling water or a solution of potassium permanganate, calcination or freezing. This will reduce the risk of disease infection and pest damage.

Thickened planting

Plants may die from overcrowding. When picking, the norm should be observed, which is at least 2 cm in a row and 5 cm between rows. If there is a suspicion that the plants are dying due to lack of space, they need to be thinned out or transplanted, and the free space filled with wood ash or calcined sand. This is necessary to prevent blackleg. The tomatoes will not come to their senses right away; they will remain lethargic for another 2-3 days, this is normal and does not require intervention. But, if after 4 days they have not come to their senses, you should look for another reason.

Violation of picking rules

This point can be classified as belated advice, but it is necessary to find out the reason.
Review whether the following rules have been followed:

Overwatering and poor drainage

When there is excess moisture, the cotyledon leaves are the first to suffer. If they turn yellow and fall off, this is a signal to reduce irrigation. It is better to use a transparent container; the presence of drainage holes is a prerequisite.

In “non-breathable” plastic containers, they should be made not only in the bottom, but also in the side walls. They are needed not only to drain excess water, but also to saturate the soil with oxygen. Therefore, a large plastic container with one hole in the middle of the bottom is considered unsuitable for growing tomatoes.

Growing roots may have blocked the drainage holes! In this case, they must be thoroughly cleaned and oxygen access and moisture removal must be ensured.

Lack of moisture

If there is insufficient moisture, the soil in the container becomes dry and crumbly or clumps into a dry lump. But, if the bushes have already begun to suffer from this and wither, abundant one-time watering is still contraindicated for them! You will have to moisten the soil little by little, adding a tablespoon at a time to each root at a time throughout the day, avoiding overwatering. If, after one extreme, the second is allowed, the plants will die.

Practice dry watering more often! To do this, you need to carefully loosen the top layer of soil for unhindered access of oxygen.

Wrong light mode

Tomatoes react negatively to both too little and too much sunlight. The optimal daylight hours for them is 12 hours. During the period of growing seedlings, it is usually shorter, therefore it needs to be illuminated with fluorescent lamps (phytolamps).

Without sufficient light, the bushes begin to grow, become long, thin and weak, which leads to their wilting. The problem is easy to determine by their appearance. But overdoing it in this matter is also not useful.

Lighting at night is harmful for tomatoes! For high-quality absorption of nutrients, they need not only sunlight, but also complete darkness.

Failure to comply with temperature conditions

The maximum air temperature for tomatoes is +36C. If the thermometer rises higher, the plants wither, dry out and die. For comfortable well-being and growth, it should be within 20-22C. At values of +15C and below, growth stops. If this temperature is maintained for a long time, the sprouts die. Proper hardening of seedlings is also very important; for this, at night the temperature is gradually lowered by 3-4C.

Draft

He is unacceptable! Movements of not only cold, but also warm air are fatal for tomato seedlings. During ventilation, even in warm weather, the boxes should be removed from the windowsill in a protected place.

Do not keep growing tomato bushes near heating radiators! For them this is tantamount to a draft.

Poor choice of location

The window sill is traditionally used for growing seedlings as the brightest place in the apartment. However, this is not the best option and this place is by no means ideal. The window feels cold in winter and early spring, and if there are small gaps, then this air movement can become critical. It is better to provide additional lighting than to deal with unstable temperature conditions.

The northern side is least suitable for cultivation, followed by the southern side. Despite the cold coming from the window, the bushes can get burned from direct sunlight, wither and die.

Incorrect feeding

An excess of fertilizers is even more negative than their lack. A sign of an excess of fertilizers in the soil is a whitish crust on its surface. The roots get burned, the leaves wither and the seedling dies. In this case, the crust must be removed, high-quality soil must be added and watered with a weak solution of humate for several days to ensure high-quality restoration of the soil.

Causes of wilting of tomato seedlings associated with diseases

Fusarium

The disease is fungal in nature. Sometimes fungal spores are introduced along with the soil, sometimes already infected seeds are found. The vascular system of the plant is affected by this disease. The leaves begin to fade, starting from the bottom row. Gradually all the leaves up to the top become lethargic and turn yellow and the seedling dies. At the first signs of this infection, diseased sprouts should be removed completely and not attempted to be saved, otherwise the infection will spread to all plantings. The remaining bushes must be transplanted into clean, disinfected soil. And only after this they begin to use special drugs to combat this disease (Fitolavin, Fitosporin, Profit Gold, Bravo and others).

Blackleg

A very common and very dangerous bacterial disease. Among all the reasons for the wilting of seedlings and their death, the black leg is in the sad first place. The stem at the base becomes thinner, darkens, the leaves, deprived of nutrients, wither, and then the plant falls, as if decimated. It is possible to save already affected bushes only at the earliest stage of the disease, and even then not always. It is pointless to try to revive severely affected seedlings; it is better to destroy them immediately, as they are infectious. The soil should be disinfected with a solution of pharmaceutical potassium permanganate.

The best way to prevent infectious diseases in tomatoes is to buy varieties that are resistant to these infections.

Black rot

It affects tomato bushes that are kept in conditions of excess moisture but insufficient heat. Rot affects the leaves, which wither, lose color and fall off, causing the death of the entire bush. It is no longer possible to save the affected seedlings; they should be removed by the roots, and the remaining healthy ones should be transplanted into another container and into another soil.

This material provides a comprehensive list of reasons why tomato seedlings wither when grown at home. With the exception of infections introduced into the soil, all of them can be predicted and eliminated. And tilling the soil before planting seed material will significantly reduce the likelihood of infectious infection. Attentive attitude and comprehensive competent care will minimize the risk of losing the future tomato harvest at the stage of growing seedlings.

It happens from year to year with many gardeners that they manage to freeze the seedlings! Despite the fact that we talked a lot about this, and about how to protect seedlings from return frosts.

And then again a flurry of questions rained down about whether it was now possible to save the frozen seedlings or that was it!

Today we’ll talk about emergency methods for resuscitating frozen plants. I hope this information will be useful to many...

If it so happens that the seedlings are frozen, then you should not give up. Yes! It’s a pity, of course: so much work and money was invested! And it may not be possible to save everyone, but you have to try! Of course, this is not a problem for the rich - he went and bought new seedlings. But not everyone has this opportunity, and purchased seedlings can always disappoint or surprise you in the future.

But there is no need to rush to throw away frozen seedlings. The first rule for saving the dying, be it drought, frost, heat, lack of light, temperature changes or disease, is to spray the plants with Epin.

Epin is useful for spraying young plants and seedlings, as well as plants that have undergone stress: frost, broken branches, pest invasion, disease, etc. Before spraying plants, eliminate the cause of damage/disease if possible. Epin is not a medicine or a panacea, it is an effective means of rehabilitating and maintaining the health of plants at all stages of their growth and development.

The recommendation to spray plants in the early morning or late evening is due to the fact that in sunlight the active substance of epin, epibrassinolide, evaporates very quickly, and daytime spraying will be of little use.

In addition, spray only the vegetative parts of plants - branches and leaves, not forgetting (if possible) to moisten the lower parts of the leaves with the solution. Spraying under stressful conditions (drought, lack of light, disease, etc.) is carried out once every 7-10 days, until the plants fully recover. If your pets are quite healthy, spray them three times a season.

Standard Epin solution, which is suitable for spraying almost all garden crops: 1 ampoule (0.25 mg) per 5 liters of water.

One more nuance: the tap water we usually use is alkaline, and alkali significantly reduces the beneficial effects of epin. Therefore, before diluting the drug in water, add a few crystals of citric acid to it. Epin is absorbed by the plant within 2-3 days, so spraying should be carried out on non-rainy, windless days.

It’s even better to prepare a magical compote from Zdorovy Sad, Ecoberin, NV-101 and Epin. Then your plants will definitely come to life and at the same time you will get an excellent harvest! But these drugs are sold in Natural Farming Centers, if there are such in your city, then good, and Epin and NV are sold in all ordinary garden stores.

Restorative functions of vegetables!

Many plants have a natural healing function. For example, tomatoes and peppers sprout side shoots and leaves from their stems. Therefore, you should not remove them if they were caught by frost, of course, if the frost was not on the soil! Just surround them with extra attention and give them time. And they will come to life! After treatment with biological preparations, some frozen plants were covered for a while with cardboard boxes and this helped:

Cabbage seedlings after frost, if they are caught, then pour cold water on them and they will also go away.

Always remember that laid on time mulch and covering material always protect our crops from adverse weather conditions. Pay more attention to your little ones and they will grow up strong and healthy! http://superogorodnik.blogspot.ru/2014/05/podmerzshieseedling.html

Saving tomato seedlings

I think every summer resident has encountered this problem. I want to plant quickly, hoping to get an early harvest, but the weather gives new surprises in the form of frosts and strong winds. This usually happens in May, but there are exceptions. And I, an experienced summer resident, also got into trouble. I want to give advice on how to save your seedlings tomato. The roots of the seedlings do not freeze, so if nothing can be done with the above-ground part of the plant, it is necessary to cut it down to the ground. Be sure to feed it, for example with urea, to shed it. If possible, cover with film so that the roots grow faster. Continue to take care and under the warm sun the sprouts will begin to grow, maybe not 100%, but 90% for sure. Get the same harvest as with the other planted seedlings, but not early, as expected.

If the above-ground part of the seedlings is not very damaged, but is still affected by frost

In this case, the seedlings must be well fed to restore the damaged leaves. Add 10 liters of urea (matchbox) to the seedlings. water, after two days treat the seedlings with a solution of a growth stimulator (for example, epin). For the severely injured tomato seedlings Regular feeding with humates and mullein will be needed.

Nature is full of surprises, and the most unpleasant of them is the sudden changeability of the weather. Frosts pose a significant danger to young plants, and too low air temperatures can even destroy them.

But if the necessary measures are taken in a timely manner to restore frozen plants, then agricultural crops can be restored in a short time. In this article I will tell you what to feed tomatoes after frost, and what resuscitation measures need to be taken to save the future harvest.

Not only tomatoes, but also other agricultural crops can be greatly affected by weather variability. Low temperature conditions often provoke the death of young seedlings. What happens to plants under the influence of sub-zero air temperatures?

When exposed to frost, the liquid contained in the plant cells turns into ice.
As soon as the air temperature becomes positive, the ice in the cells melts, increasing in volume, which provokes the rupture of cellular structures.
Frozen plant cells die.

Severe frosts can damage the entire plant. If not the entire plant is frozen, but only some of its parts, then using emergency resuscitation measures, the seedlings can be restored.

How to restore tomatoes after frost

There are certain actions that will help save tomato seedlings after frost.

Spraying with water

If the surface of the tomato leaves is covered with frost, then the plant must be sprayed with water and then shaded. Spraying is done until the air temperature rises and the frost from the surface of the leaves melts.

Spraying must be done with cold water. You can use either a spray bottle or a fine spray hose.
Afterwards, the plant is shaded. To do this, you can use a sheet of cardboard, newspaper, plywood or something else that will reliably cover the tomatoes from the scorching sun.

Spraying with antidepressants

Gardeners call Epin-Extra a miracle drug, and all because it is capable of restoring crops damaged by frost in the shortest possible time.

Preparation of the solution:

1 ampoule of the drug dissolves in 5 liters. boiled water;
The effectiveness of the product can be enhanced by adding a few crystals of citric acid to the water or pouring 2 tbsp. l. lemon juice.

The lower and upper sides of the leaves, as well as the trunks, are sprayed with the prepared solution. It is important to repeat the resuscitation procedure every week, and so on until the plant is fully restored.

Another drug for restoring frozen tomatoes is Zircon.

Preparation of the solution:

in 10 l. dissolve 1 ml of cool water. active agent.

Tomatoes are sprayed every 7 days. The total number of resuscitation treatments is 4 times.

Important! Processing of tomatoes damaged by frost is carried out either early in the morning or late in the evening.

Feeding frost-damaged tomatoes

Plants damaged by frost can be helped to recover by nutritional supplements. When adding fertilizers to the soil, it is important to maintain proportions. Mineral solutions should be weaker, otherwise, instead of restoring, such fertilizing will destroy frozen tomatoes.

How to feed tomatoes after cold weather?

"Zircon". The nutrient preparation will help revive frozen tomatoes. Fertilizer is applied strictly to the root system of the seedlings; it is important that not a drop of mineral fertilizer gets on the leaves or stem of the plant.
Urea. An effective means of resuscitating plants after frost is urea. Fertilizer is also applied only under the root system of tomatoes.
Poultry or cow manure. Biological fertilizing is especially effective if the tomatoes have suffered from morning frosts. Fertilizer is applied exclusively to the roots of the plant.

Frozen parts of tomatoes should be removed, as they will no longer be able to recover. Emergency measures to prevent the consequences of frost will help plants survive this difficult period and continue their development.

Immediately after applying one of the above fertilizers to the root system, the plantings are covered with a layer of plastic film for 10 days. If the plant is not destroyed by frost, then after the designated period it departs.

Timely resuscitation measures will help tomatoes quickly recover and begin to bear fruit in due time.

Restoring greenhouse tomatoes after frost

Some gardeners are confident that seedlings grown in greenhouse conditions are protected from negative natural phenomena. In most cases, this is indeed true, but sometimes plants grown in a greenhouse are exposed to low temperatures.

If the tomatoes in the greenhouse are frozen, then urgent action should be taken, namely:

Completely remove the film from the greenhouse.
Water the seedlings with warm water. The ideal liquid temperature is +30 degrees. Watering should be moderate; plants should not be overwatered, as this can lead to their death.
Treat the leaves and trunks of frozen plants with a special product - “Epin”. The composition for spraying is prepared as follows: in 1/2 liter. stir in warm water 2 mg. active drug. Spraying is carried out every 10 days.

Bottom line

Tomatoes damaged by frost can be restored if resuscitation measures are used in a timely manner.
To restore tomato seedlings, spraying with water or antidepressants is used, as well as feeding plants with fertilizers.

It happens from year to year with many gardeners that they manage to freeze the seedlings! Despite the fact that we talked a lot about this, and about how to protect seedlings from return frosts.

And then again a flurry of questions rained down about whether it was now possible to save the frozen seedlings or that was it!

Today we’ll talk about emergency methods for resuscitating frozen plants. I hope this information will be useful to many...

Standard Epin solution, which is suitable for spraying almost all garden crops: 1 ampoule (0.25 mg) per 5 liters of water.

Restorative functions of vegetables!

Always remember that timely laid mulch and covering material always protect our crops from adverse weather conditions. Pay more attention to your little ones and they will grow up strong and healthy!

If you need help in developing a plot and in everything related to Natural farming in general, you can get Individual consultation! This will help avoid mistakes and speed up the process of restoring the land!

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