home » Bathroom

How to lay a brick: steps with photos, how to lay a brick yourself. Brick masonry technology How brickwork is made

Before you start laying bricks, you should familiarize yourself with the nuances of this process. From the photo of laying bricks with your own hands, you can see that it is quite easy. And to really make this task easier, below are the steps for laying brick yourself.

Brief terminology

Brick is one of the most popular building materials. Every person has been familiar with his appearance since childhood. But the names of its faces should be considered:

  • the long side edges are called “spoons”;
  • short side edges - “poke”;
  • the upper and lower edges are “beds”;
  • the intersection of the faces is called an "edge".

The brick has standard dimensions: single - 250 x 125 x 66 mm, and one-and-a-half - 250 x 125 x 88 mm.

Versta - outer rows of brickwork. It is divided into external (facade) and internal.

Zabutka are products that are laid between the front and interior versts.

A spoon row is bricks that are laid with long side edges. And the butt row is bricks laid with short side edges.

A pier is a part of the wall that appears between two openings (windows, doors, arches).

What is needed for bricklaying

Where to start laying bricks with your own hands? Naturally, with the preparation of the necessary working tools. Let's look at do-it-yourself bricklaying devices:

  • A trowel (trowel) is a flat metal spatula with a triangular-shaped handle. Serves for applying and leveling the solution, as well as for removing excess mass.
  • Hammer-pick - different from the classic hammer. On one side there is a blunt rectangular striker, and on the other there is a pointed part that looks like a chisel. The pointed side is intended for breaking off small pieces of brick, and the blunt side is for leveling the surface. If available, you can use a grinder with a stone disc.
  • Construction level - necessary to control horizontal and vertical masonry.
  • A construction square is a type of ruler. Used to control angles.

  • Construction plumb line (with a fairly heavy weight). Necessary for measuring the verticality of masonry and angles.
  • Mooring cord (mooring cord) - twisted cord with a diameter of 3-5 mm. Necessary to ensure horizontal and straight laying of rows.
  • Joining - used at the final stage of work. Necessary for forming seams and sealing them.
  • Ruler - used to check the thickness of seams.
  • The rule is a wooden or aluminum ruler. Used to control the plane of laying rows.
  • Shovel - for mixing the solution and stirring it periodically.
  • Concrete mixer or other container - for mixing masonry mortar.
  • Buckets for carrying the solution. Usually 2-3 pieces are needed.
  • Construction mixer - for uniformity of the solution. But it’s possible without it.

Usually a set of these tools is quite enough for construction.

Preparation of the solution

Not only the safety of the building, but also its strength depends on the masonry mortar. Therefore, special attention must be paid to this process of preparing mortar for laying bricks with your own hands.

Advice! For beginners, it is better to make a small amount of solution to eliminate the possibility of premature hardening.

For a high-quality solution, use good cement grade M300-M500, dry sand (river or quarry), water and a plasticizer. If necessary, dyes, soot or graphite are added to create a contrast with the brick.

Standard proportions of cement and sand are 1:3-1:5, depending on the brand of cement. It is worth considering that the more sand, the stronger the connection, but the lower the elasticity. The amount of water is often calculated by experiment and is approximately 0.4-0.6 parts. For plasticity, use lime, clay, liquid soap or, in extreme cases, washing powder in a proportion of no more than 0.1 part.

First you need to sift the sand so that it does not contain impurities from stone, soil and debris. Next, combine the dry ingredients in the required proportion and mix until the color of the mixture is uniform. And only then add water. This sequence is necessary for uniform mixing.

Important! The setting of the mixture begins in approximately 45 minutes, and ends after 2 hours. The solution acquires full strength in almost a month - in 28 days.

The consistency of the finished solution should resemble thick porridge. You can check it with a trowel. You need to run it through the solution. If the trowel mark does not float and the solution does not tear, it means that the amount of water is normal. If the solution floats, there is a lot of water, and if it breaks, there is not enough.

The importance of proper brick laying with your own hands

The safety of the building depends primarily on the correct laying of bricks. This process consists of several steps. Before starting masonry, a beginner should practice making individual objects - corners and pillars. Below are step-by-step instructions for laying bricks with your own hands. For convenience, it is described step by step.

Laying bricks dry

The essence of the step is to lay the brick “dry”. This is necessary for computational work and checking the correct installation.

  1. Preparing the necessary tools.
  2. Unpacking and checking the brick. You need to pay attention to both the color of the material and its size. It is better to take bricks from one batch.
  3. Make sure the foundation or plinth is protected from moisture. That is, waterproofing is installed. This is necessary so that the brick does not draw out moisture.
  4. Now you need to lay out the first row of bricks, without using mortar and scrupulous precision. It is necessary to use an object with a diameter of 8 mm (this could be a piece of reinforcement, for example). This is exactly the diameter that is needed, since it is equal to the thickness of the mortar between the bricks.
  5. Now you can start laying out. We carefully lay the brick around the perimeter of the base, while carefully observing the gap and evenness of the masonry. Particular attention should be paid to the corners.
  6. Now measurements are taken from corner to corner, and then diagonally. All data is recorded and verified with the data of the construction project.
  7. At the corners, it is recommended to mark the plinth with a pencil where the edges of the bricks will be placed. If desired and have time, such markings can be made along the entire perimeter of the building.

Advice! To prevent the brick from “pulling” moisture from the mortar, it is recommended to first soak it in water for a while.

First row

We can say that this stage is the most crucial. And all because the rest of the layout depends on the correctness and quality of the laid out first row.

Stages of the second step:

  1. The corners are laid out according to the marks made earlier. Their laying begins with two bricks placed at an angle of 90 o (checked with a triangle).
  2. Bricks placed on the mortar must be carefully adjusted in height using a trowel or the blunt side of a pickaxe. It is important to use a level to make sure that the blocks on the two edges of the walls are placed at the same height.
  3. In the same way, you need to lay bricks along the remaining corners of the building.
  4. Now you need to stretch the mooring cord between the corner blocks. All other blocks of the first row will be aligned with it (both vertically and horizontally). The thread can be secured either in a row or using corners. It is important that the cord does not sag.
  5. Then you can start laying out the remaining blocks of the crown. Using a trowel, apply the mortar, level it to a height of about 1.5 cm, lay the brick and be sure to level it both horizontally and vertically (using a mooring thread). You need to check the top with a building level. If necessary, it is possible to correct the brick by lightly tapping the blunt end of a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel. As a result, the thickness of the seam horizontally should be about 8-10 mm, and vertically - 8 mm. Excess solution is removed with a trowel.
  6. All other blocks of the first row are laid in the same way.
  7. When the last brick of the crown is laid, a check is made. The height of all bricks must be the same and there should be no protrusion in any direction relative to the foundation.
  8. If everything is in order, then you can begin laying out the corners of the second row, moving the mooring line and other work.

Bricklaying methods

After laying out the crown, the principle of operation does not change. But the masonry technology varies and depends on the plasticity of the solution. Let's consider two main methods:

  • "Suck it." This method allows you to work faster. It is mainly used for laying walls. Mooring cords are stretched along the outer and inner sides of the row. The cement-sand mixture is poured out and spread with a trowel over the previous row. The thickness of the solution should be slightly greater than planned. It is important that the solution also fills the joints of the previous row. Now take the block, tilt it a little with a poke, plunge it into the mortar and move it towards the already laid brick so that the mixture is “collected” onto the edge. This way it is possible to form both horizontal and vertical seams. The rest of the bricks are laid out in the same way. The blocks are adjusted by lightly tapping with a trowel or a pick-hammer, and the excess mortar is removed. If necessary, vertical joints are filled where there is not enough mortar.
  • “Pull in.” To use it, use a hard solution. It is more labor-intensive than other methods, but it produces the strongest seams. As in the previous method, the mooring cord is pulled, the mortar is laid out and leveled. Next, you need to turn the trowel on its side and carefully move it along the surface of the mortar, raking part of it towards the vertical side of the block to which the new one will be laid. As a result, an even side seam should form. Next, holding the mortar on the vertical side with a trowel, place the new block in the desired place and press it against the poke (spoon) of the adjacent block and the bed with the mortar. Then carefully remove the trowel. The following blocks are laid using the same technology. If necessary, you need to trim the rows with light blows with the handle of a trowel. Excess mortar is cut off with a trowel.

DIY brick pillars

Laying brick pillars with your own hands has certain features. For example, a brick needs to be impregnated with a special agent that will prevent the appearance of white spots (efflorescence). Required materials: brick, mortar, 4 metal rods with a diameter of 8-10 mm (15 cm longer than one side of the support), level, trowel, hammer and small stone (crushed stone can be used).

DIY brick laying steps:

  1. A layer of insulation needs to be laid on the foundation. Next, lay out the first row of 1.5 or 2 bricks.
  2. Then an offset of half a block is made. This is necessary to create a dressing.
  3. Pieces of rod are laid on the solution. This is necessary for the evenness of the seams. Once the block is level, the rods are pulled out.
  4. Excess solution is removed with a trowel. Every two or three rows, crushed stone is poured into the void of the post. It is recommended to use wire reinforcement.
  5. Each row must be laid carefully. If necessary, trim with a hammer and check with a level.

To give a harmonious and respectable look, facing bricks are used. Laying facing bricks with your own hands is a little more difficult than laying walls. The tool remains the same, except that a template is added for more accurate masonry. The solution consists of cement, sand and water in a ratio of 1:3:1, respectively. To ensure that the color of the cement-sand mixture does not vary greatly, coloring pigments are added. Before laying out, the material must be soaked in water.

Important! Laying of facing bricks is carried out at a temperature of +5 C o.

The first step is to lay it out without mortar. This is necessary in order to calculate how many bricks need to be cut, which blocks will be used for laying door and window openings, and also to eliminate defects.

When all the ceramic products have been selected and trimmed, you can begin laying out.

Important! Under no circumstances should you use a metal disc or hammer. This may damage the material.

It must be taken into account that the size of the horizontal seam should be no more than 10 mm, and the vertical seam no more than 12 mm. The first row is laid out completely - from one side to the other. The solution must be applied with an indentation of 1.5 cm from the edge. But the laying of the next rows is different. Here, level masonry is necessary, and therefore measurements are required.

First you need to form corners to a height of 5-6 rows. Then the thread should be pulled between the blocks so that the layout is even. And now you need to do the seams. That is, using a special device, perform such actions so that the seam protrudes a few millimeters from the outside of the facing masonry. Next, the rows are laid out. A template is used for accuracy. It is important not to forget to wipe the lining with a damp cloth every 4 rows to remove dirt. It is best to remove it immediately if contamination appears.

Laying bricks with your own hands may seem difficult for an inexperienced person. But if you stick to technology, and even better, invite an experienced craftsman to help, then everything will definitely work out.

First, let's prepare all the necessary tools and materials for the upcoming work.

Tools:

  • Trowel (trowel)
  • Pick hammer
  • Shovel
  • Joining
  • Order
  • Cord mooring
  • Hydraulic level
  • Plumb
  • Building level
  • 2 templates: metal rod 10x10mm and 12x12mm
  • Concrete mixer or trough
  • Gloves

Materials

  • Brick
  • For mortar: cement, sand, plasticizer or lime or Fairy
  • Masonry mesh for reinforcement

Preparatory work. Foundation

So, let's begin. We have a rectangular strip foundation on which we will build a half-brick wall.

Checking the horizontalness of the foundation with a hydraulic level

First, we need to determine how level the horizontal surface of the foundation is relative to the ground level? For this purpose, we will use a hydraulic level and check first the corners, and then the entire perimeter of the foundation. (When filling the hydraulic level with water, make sure that there are no bubbles in the tube, otherwise the measurements may not be accurate).

In the figure we see that both corners are at the same level. As the masters say, “it is at zero.” But this method of measurement cannot be used if our foundation has discrepancies relative to the level. So let's move on to a more practical method.

Let’s lower the 1st flask of the hydraulic level relative to the foundation so that the “0” mark is 5 cm below the upper surface of the foundation (with the condition that the maximum difference across the foundation at the maximum point is slightly less than 5 cm). Opposite the “0” mark on the flask we place a mark on the foundation. We will not touch this flask now. First, let's check all the outer corners of the foundation, in our case there are 4 of them. To do this, we will move the 2nd flask to all 3 corners, and put a mark on the foundation opposite the “0” mark, which is on the 2nd flask. Then we repeat the steps with the 2nd flask, transferring it to other measured points on the foundation.

When we have placed all the marks, we begin to measure the distances between the mark on the foundation and the upper edge of the foundation. In the figure we measured the distance on two segments: a and b. Let's assume the distance a =5cm and b =5cm (a =b). Consequently, the foundation at these points is set to “0”.

Second option a =5cm, b =3cm. Therefore, there is a difference relative to zero of 2 cm. Such a foundation needs to be leveled, and we take the highest point on the foundation as zero. You can align in several ways:

  • leveling screed on cement-sand mortar using formwork,
  • brickwork, changing the thickness of the horizontal seam.

If the difference is large, then it is better to level it using mortar; if it is small, then using masonry. Just remember that the permissible horizontal seam thickness according to SNiP should be 12 mm with a tolerance of +3, -2 mm (according to SNiP 3.03.01-87). When reinforcing, the maximum thickness of the seam should not exceed 16mm. And just for reference: the permitted permissible deviation from the horizontal per 10m of masonry is up to 15mm, which is then eliminated by the next row.

Checking the diagonals of the foundation

The second important point when checking the foundation is to pay attention to the diagonals. Ideally, the diagonals in a rectangular foundation should coincide. According to the figure, we displayed the coincidence of the diagonals in a small equality D 1 = D 2. If they are equal, we can judge that all our parallel sides have the same length and all 4 angles are at 90 degrees. These conditions are important to us so that our walls turn out smooth.

If there is a slight discrepancy in the diagonals, then this inaccuracy can be compensated for during laying by reducing the long side and increasing the short side. Of course, if the thickness of the foundation and the thickness of the masonry allow us to do this.

Waterproofing

After we have sorted out the foundation measurements, we move on to the next stage: waterproofing the upper part of the foundation. It is performed using 2 layers of roofing felt. The second layer is laid with the seams of the first overlapping by 10 - 15 cm. Ruberoid can be laid in several ways:

  • dry, I temporarily press the roofing felt to the foundation with bricks (so as not to be blown away by the wind);
  • on bitumen mastic or heated bitumen;
  • gluing by heating the surface of the roofing material with a burner.

Modern roofing felt has several modifications: rubemast, glass roofing felt (stekloizol), euroroofing felt. In terms of their characteristics, they are superior to ordinary roofing felt, but their price is higher. The TechnoNIKOL company offers a wide selection of roll waterproofing.

Why do you need to waterproof the foundation before brickwork?? It's simple - so that moisture from the foundation does not move into the basement or brick walls. Moisture can be not only due to rain and melting snow, but also simply from capillary suction of water from the ground by our foundation. Moreover, if we have a brick base and brick walls, then we will need to waterproof it twice:

  • between the foundation and the plinth;
  • between the plinth and the brick wall.

Layout of the first row and marking of the foundation

The next step is laying out the first row of bricks dry, that is, without using mortar.

What is it for? Masonry is considered ideal when the walls are laid with whole bricks (without three-quarters, halves, and especially quarters). Of course, the laying of the corners is not taken into account, since there are brick shares needed for ligation, and backfills where brick shares can be used. We are mainly talking about facing masonry, which should, as they say, “please the eye.” Therefore, at this stage we will dry lay out the entire first row along the entire perimeter with vertical seams of 10mm. In order for the seam to be the same everywhere, we will use a template (metal square rod 10x10mm). If, as a result of the layout, we see that the last intact brick does not reach the edge of the foundation, or, on the contrary, the brick hangs over the foundation, then we can reduce or increase the width of the vertical seam. According to SNiP (3-03-01-87), the tolerance for vertical seams is +-2mm. If you really can’t do without a brick share, then prepare it right away and determine where to place it. We also need to take into account that if we lay a facing brick over the plinth, then we can make a small extension of the outer mile beyond the edges of the plinth, since the plinth will be plastered in the future.

After we have laid the entire row, we need to make marks on the foundation (or base) where the vertical seams will go. Due to the fact that each brick has small errors from the standard dimensions, it is recommended to use during laying exactly the same brick that we used during dry laying. Therefore, after marking, simply place each brick on the foundation opposite the marks. At the same time, if your roofing material is laid dry, just press it temporarily to the foundation with a brick.

Preparing the brick and workplace

Do not forget that it is advisable to use the solution within 1-3 hours until it begins to set. Therefore, it is advisable to complete all preparatory work before preparing the solution, namely:

  • Place small stacks of bricks along the foundation. If the width of the foundation allows, the brick can be placed directly on the foundation. The main thing is that it does not interfere with you when laying and at the same time you can easily reach it.
  • Prepare the necessary tools for the job.

There is one more type of work that is recommended to be done mainly when working with red solid brick. Namely, moisten the brick with water. Just not until it is completely saturated with water, otherwise the brick will float on the mortar. Then the logical question is how long to wet the brick. Experienced masons, based on voting results on one popular forum, divide this opinion into the following proportions:

  • do not wet 10%,
  • soak for a couple of seconds 50%
  • soak for 15 minutes 40%

Decide for yourself which method to choose, but if you are new to bricklaying, we still recommend soaking it for a while. The soaked brick retains its mobility on the mortar for a fairly long time, thereby giving you the opportunity to eliminate possible defects. It is believed that the seam when using soaked brick is stronger, since moisture is not sucked out of the mortar by the brick itself. If you are too lazy to soak the brick in water, then there is a simple way - just pour the brick generously with a garden hose. www.site

Preparation of the solution

To lay bricks we need cement-sand mortar. To prepare it we will use the following ratio:

  • 1 share of cement (shovel, bucket, kg)
  • 4 shares of sand (shovel, bucket, kg)
  • lime or plasticizer or liquid soap (Fairy)
  • water (by eye).

The ratio of cement to sand may differ depending on the characteristics of the cement-sand mortar we need (1 share of cement to 2.5-6 shares of sand). A plasticizer is added to give the solution plasticity. This characteristic is important for comfortable work during laying.

How to cook?

  1. We take a container for mixing the solution. Ideally, it is better to use a concrete mixer. If it is not there, then any container convenient for these purposes (trough, etc.) will do.
  2. We put 4 shovels of sand into the concrete mixer, and then 1 shovel of cement. Mix.
  3. We add water by eye to obtain the consistency we need. At the same time, add 2-3 drops of Fairy (either plasticizer or lime) previously diluted in a small amount of water. Mix thoroughly.

The solution should resemble thick honey or cottage cheese, depending on what kind of solution we need.

You can also use our calculator to calculate the composition of the solution and count the number of batches for a concrete mixer:

Brick laying process

We start laying from the corners, the rows of which are placed opposite each other at the same level. Why from the corners? Because the corners will serve as guidelines along which the walls will be laid out using a mooring cord. The cord is stretched between 2 adjacent rows of bricks that make up the corner. Therefore, it is very important to maintain horizontal and vertical angles running at the same level opposite each other.

First of all, you need to prepare the so-called “bed” from the solution. If you don’t have much experience, we recommend putting the mortar on one brick that you are going to lay. The thickness of the laid mortar should be somewhere around 20-25mm (by eye), so that when pressing the brick, the thickness of the horizontal seam becomes 12mm (standard horizontal seam). Apply the solution with a trowel. Our bed should not reach the edge of the foundation (or the underlying brick) by 20-30mm if we are going to open the seams, or 10-15mm if we are going to trim them. In order to get the 12 mm seam we need, we can use a template (12x12mm metal rod), which we lay along the very edge of the foundation in the place where we will lay the brick. We will need a rod template before installing the order. Then, to maintain the thickness of the horizontal seam, it will be possible to use divisions in order. Using the marks on the foundation, we control the location of the vertical seams of the first row.

Let's move on to the process of laying bricks on the mortar. We take a brick, place it on the bed and lightly press it down. Then, using a level, we check the horizon and vertical in 3 directions and if we see discrepancies somewhere, lightly knock the brick with a pick-hammer or the handle of a trowel.

Making corners

Now, using the knowledge gained, we set the corners brick by brick. The main thing is not to forget that the quality of the masonry of the entire wall will largely depend on how correctly the corners are set. Therefore, we use both an eye and devices that will help us in setting angles.

Using a plumb line, we check the verticality of the masonry. A plumb line is considered a very accurate device for checking the verticality of a surface. Probably the simplest and most accurate compared to the building level, which can sometimes fail. There is no point in using a plumb line when we have 1-2 rows of masonry laid, since it is difficult to determine by eye the discrepancy from the vertical in such a small area.

In the picture we have displayed 3 points equally distant from the masonry. Based on the fact that the distances in these segments are equal, we can conclude that our masonry is laid out exactly vertically. To work with a plumb line, you, of course, need to have a good eye, since we determine all the distances between the masonry and the plumb line visually, by eye.

To maintain identical horizontal seams and to control the horizontalness of the masonry, we recommend using rows. They will be especially useful for people with little experience in bricklaying. The orders are established strictly vertically (plumb or level) and are attached to the masonry using U-shaped brackets. The distance between the order divisions is 77mm for a single brick (brick thickness 65mm + seam 12mm) and 100mm for thickened bricks (88mm + 12mm).


We stretch the cord to the mooring

After removing the corners, you can proceed directly to laying the wall. In order for the entire row to be at the same level, we pull the mooring cord between two opposite rows, which we have laid out in the same horizontal line. For mooring, you can use either nylon thread, fishing line, or an analogue. The main thing is that it is durable and visible to you when laying. The mooring can be attached:

  • to order, if there are holes in it;
  • using staples and nails.

We have shown both methods in the figures.

The mooring is attached with a vertical indentation of 2-3 mm from the masonry, so that there is no contact of the mooring with the brick along its entire length.

If the mooring does not have holes, then you can follow the simple and most common way to install the mooring. To do this we need 1 nail and 1 staple for 1 corner. We insert the nail into the finished seam and tie a mooring to it. Then we insert the mooring into the bracket. We place the bracket with the mooring threaded through it on the brick along which we will make a row and press the bracket with a free-lying brick on top (without mortar). The staple can be a rigid wire bent in half. The figure shows in detail how this will look visually.

If the berth sags, then you need to install so-called beacons. For this purpose, 2 bricks are taken. The first is placed, taking into account the thickness of the seam, on a mortar or rod template (12x12mm), and the second is placed with a poke on the first brick. We insert a nail between the bricks, onto which the mooring is wound tightly.

Lay out the bottom row of the wall between the corners

Along the stretched mooring we place the first row of bricks between the two corners. The thickness of the vertical joints and the location of the bricks are controlled by the risks on the foundation.

Lay out the remaining rows

Then we lay the remaining rows using the same principle with bandaging of the seams (in our case, bandaging in half a brick). At the same time, we no longer place risks like on the foundation for the first row, but we make sure that the vertical seams across the row are at the same level. In the picture, this is an example of seams in the 1st and 3rd rows. You will find more detailed information about the types and methods of ligating sutures in our article "".

Further, according to this principle, all the walls of our building are exposed. Don’t forget to keep the face of the masonry clean and unstitch the seams until the mortar sets. Also, if reinforcement of the masonry is necessary, we determine how many rows we will do it (usually every 5-6 rows). © www.site

Masonry reinforcement

That's all. If you missed something or have questions, you can ask them in the comments.

In order for bricklaying with your own hands to last for a long time, you need to take care not only of the quality of the building material, but also of compliance with technological standards during the work process.

Construction material

When building a wall, you can use a combination of white and red bricks, the skillful combination of which serves as a kind of architectural decoration.

Red brick is obtained after firing special clay at high temperature. Compliance with the technology of its manufacture is reflected in the quality of the building material. The pores are sealed only when the temperature approaches the melting point. The brick stops absorbing moisture. Otherwise the material will crumble.

The size of a standard clay brick is 65 millimeters thick, 120 millimeters wide and 250 millimeters long. From fifty to fifty-five pieces are used per square meter of wall.

Brick blocks that are twice as tall as standard bricks are increasingly being used in construction practice. Do-it-yourself masonry can look elegant only when a material of impeccable shape, without cracks, and with rectangular edges is used. To reduce the pressure on the foundation and improve the thermal performance of the material, cellular bricks are often used, weighing twenty percent less than single bricks.

Brick laying mortar

For bricklaying, a mortar is used on one of three bases:

  • limestone,
  • cement,
  • cement-lime.

Any solution cannot be prepared without good ravine sand. The correct ratio of the constituent parts also plays a major role in the composition of the solution. More often, three parts of sand are added to one part of cement. An option is possible in which six parts of sand are added to one part of cement. The determining role here is played by the brand of cement and the purpose for which the solution is prepared.

Types of masonry

In the construction business, there are three main methods of laying bricks: end-to-end with the necessary trimming, end-to-end, pressed. Any of the three types of masonry can be made of either silicate or ceramic bricks. It should be borne in mind that the choice of variety is determined not by personal preference, but by the presence of objective circumstances. The following factors are of great importance:

  • ambient temperature,
  • future purpose of the wall,
  • masonry height,
  • the use of auxiliary elements,
  • the type of mortar used in the construction of the object.

All this must be carefully taken into account, and only then choose a masonry method that is suitable for the available materials and conditions. The state of both ordinary and thickened bricks, which can be not only dry, but also saturated with moisture, also has a certain impact on the technological process.

The condition for error-free masonry in practice is a good eye of the mason, uniformity of the structure along the entire perimeter, which is ensured by the skillful use of a plumb line and level. The most common mistake occurs when one side is ahead of the other by a significant number of rows. An unevenly applied load inevitably leads to loss of stability.

Each of the three methods of laying bricks has its own specifics. Press-on masonry is used when interlocking and interlocking bricks are used, connected with rigid mortar. In this case, the bed is laid using five butt bricks or three spoon bricks, and a trowel serves as a clamp. The required mass of solution is placed at a distance of at least ten centimeters from the edge of the wall. This method of laying bricks with your own hands using rigid mortar requires both special skill and some skills in work.

End-to-end laying using a device for laying bricks - a trowel, is indispensable when there is no need to completely cover the seams and the mortar used is plastic and mobile. A brick is laid on a bed prepared in the usual way using a thin mortar, after which it must be pressed firmly. By slightly moving the brick, you can ensure that the mortar, prudently left at the edge of the wall in a larger quantity, fills the cavity of the vertical seam. After this, all that remains is to firmly press the brick again.

Laying bricks with your own hands end-to-end with the necessary trimming is a kind of intermediate option. One brick is laid end to end with respect to the other. Only in this case, the mortar used is one hundred percent identical in its characteristics to that used when laying pressed bricks.

Wall masonry technology

Whatever method of laying bricks with your own hands is chosen, it still needs to be unstitched after several rows have been laid. Thanks to the jointing, the seam becomes much more reliable and dense. Depending directly on the tool used, the seam can be given exactly the appearance that is required.

In practice, there is more than one brick laying scheme that helps to achieve excellent results and a long service life of the wall. The most common is considered to be bandaging of seams, with the help of which a mason makes a brick wall monolithic. Bandaging masonry seams means following the established order of arrangement of building materials. Bandaging is usually used where the heaviest load is felt, such as corners, or joints, or places where the masonry changes linear direction.

When laying out a wall with your own hands, you must take into account that dressing is not a uniform phenomenon and is divided into the following types:

  • transverse
  • longitudinal dressing
  • vertical.

Each of these varieties is intended to perform only its own tasks, but dressings can find a successful combination in one masonry. The transverse type is used to establish an effective connection between the bricks and so that the load is not one-sided, being distributed only horizontally. Longitudinal bandaging of seams prevents delamination of the wall and fulfills the task of uniformly distributing the load. Vertical bandaging of masonry seams ensures stable overlap by the overlying bricks of the vertical seams formed between the bricks below.

Any type of ligation of seams helps to increase the strength of the wall and economical use of building material.

Suture dressing can be multi-row or single-row. A good result when using a single-row dressing is obtained by alternating splice and spoon rows. At the same time, the seams that run across the adjacent rows are shifted by about a quarter.

Traditional single brick masonry requires one row of joints, repeated six rows after the usual masonry, for strength of connection and proper distribution of weight. When using thickened bricks, the bonded row should be laid out in five rows. The effect of bandaging is significant, although it is not necessary in every case and does not represent an indispensable method for strengthening masonry. It would be rational to use it if the wall thickness is at least one brick, otherwise it is useless.

The greatest financial savings come from masonry made of solid bricks laid in such a way that air layers up to seven millimeters wide are obtained. This method allows you to reduce the consumption of bricks per cube of masonry while increasing the thermal insulation properties of the wall. A positive consequence of this method is a possible reduction in the thickness of the masonry. The reduction in the volume of the structure here is achieved both as a result of a decrease in thickness and due to the voids created inside the wall.

If the masonry is carried out with a quarter or half brick, then use effective auxiliary elements that complement the masonry. This can be thin but strong reinforcement that cannot significantly increase the load, or a light metal mesh. The most important thing is to ensure that all technological requirements are met when laying bricks, after which it will be possible to systematically carry out other work, including laying facing bricks or tiles and plastering.

Do-it-yourself bricklaying is a very significant part of the technology when building a house. The reliable quality of this type of work is a guarantee of the durability and safety of the structure.

This is a labor-intensive and complex process, on which the strength of the entire structure completely depends. If the technology is violated, cracks may appear in a self-built structure or it may completely collapse. It is also important to maintain precision and accuracy in the process of laying the facing material, since it is the finishing coating and the face of the entire house.

You will need the following tools:

  • container for mixing the solution and bucket;
  • shovel;
  • trowel (trowel);
  • pickaxe hammer;
  • cord (to determine the boundary);
  • jointing;
  • building level and plumb line;
  • order;
  • templates

Before you start laying bricks yourself, you need to properly prepare the foundation of the building. The surface on which walls or other structures will be erected must be thoroughly cleaned of debris and dirt. The building level checks the evenness, since if it has deviations, then the walls will also be inclined.

Before laying the plinth on a foundation or other structure, you need to cover it with a waterproofing layer. The upper part is covered with two layers of roofing felt. The second roll is rolled out on top of the first with an overlap of at least 10-15 cm. It is glued either using a special mixture or by heating. Waterproofing will protect against moisture that can move from the foundation.

The next stage is laying the first row without mortar. Walls look best if they are made only of solid blocks, without inserting sections (halves or quarters). They are first placed with a standard joint width of 10 mm. To make it the same everywhere, a metal template is used. If, after laying out, there is protruding or missing brick at the edge of the row, then you should either increase the width of the seam or reduce it (but not more than 2 mm for both cases). Since the maximum joint width according to building codes is 12 mm. If you still need to add the cut part, then you need to immediately decide on the location of its installation. If the masonry is made above the base, then it is possible for it to partially protrude above it, since the base will later be plastered.

After everything is laid out and the required width of the seams is determined, marks must be made on the foundation or plinth indicating the location of the vertical seams. You should start laying out the first row from the same material that was used for dry laying, as some of them may have an error in size.

Solution mixing technology

The most commonly used cement-sand composition. You should not make too much of the mixture, as it hardens within two to three hours. Before laying, solid red brick can be moistened with water, then it will not draw water out of the solution, and the seam will be more durable.

To prepare it yourself, you will need 1 part cement and 4 parts sand, as well as liquid dishwashing detergent. It will make it more flexible. Cement and sand are poured into a mixing container and mixed thoroughly. The mixture should become homogeneous and without lumps. Then water is added to it in such an amount that the consistency of the solution is similar to thick sour cream. At the same time, dishwashing liquid or liquid soap diluted in water is poured in.

Instructions, methods and diagrams

The most common laying methods are end-to-end and pressed. In the first case, the cement-sand mortar is not applied to the very edge on the outside of the brick, but an indent of 2-3 cm is left. Thanks to this, the mixture will not come out after pressing. When placing a spoon row, the technology is as follows: the block is held at an angle and the compound is raked with the butt part at a distance of 8-12 cm from the previously installed one. The laying pattern with the butt part is exactly the same.

A row is called a spoon row if the material is placed along the foundation, a bond row if it is placed across it. To lay bricks using the pressing method, a cement-sand mortar is applied to the surface in such an amount that it is possible to install 5 splices or 3 spoons. There is no need to place the mixture according to this scheme at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the outer edge. Then the seam will be neat and beautiful after grouting.

Press method:

  • The cement-sand mortar is applied and leveled with a trowel.
  • Part of the mixture is raked with a trowel to the end of the already installed plain or facing brick.
  • The next one is installed and pressed against the trowel.
  • The trowel is pulled out and the block is moved in.
  • Excess is removed.

Laying facing bricks or plain bricks should be started from the corners, as they will be used as guides. To do this, a cord is stretched between adjacent corners. It should be positioned horizontally. After this, a solution is applied to the surface of the foundation. Smooth out to a thickness of 2-2.5 cm, so that after laying it becomes 1.2 cm. You should not cover the entire area with the mixture at once, but only for two blocks placed using the spoon method, or four for a butt row.

To ensure that the seam is exactly this thick, a special metal template for the mortar is used; its diameter is 12 mm. Lay the template along the edge of the foundation from the outside. After the cement-sand mixture is smoothed, a brick is laid and lightly pressed down. The evenness of its installation is checked, and if it lies unevenly, then it is leveled by tapping with a pick-hammer.

The laid out rows must be checked for verticality; plumb lines are used for this. To control the horizontal level, ordering is used. The strip with marks is secured with staples. The distance between the divisions should be equal to the thickness of the block including the seam. For convenience, you can make holes in the order and pull the cord through them. With it it will be much easier to monitor the horizontal level of the brickwork.

Tutorial for ligation of sutures

In order for the wall to be strong and the load to be distributed evenly over it, it is necessary to ensure that the seams are bandaged. To do this, the next row is placed offset by half or one third from the brick. Adjacent rows (top or bottom) should not have the same vertical seams. To knit parallel rows, you need to start laying every 3-5 row using the butting method, not the spoon method. In this case, the seams should not coincide with the bottom row.

There are also many other dressing schemes with different masonry technologies and patterns. The most common are single-row and multi-row. The first category includes dressing systems such as Dutch, chain, and cross. They have the same instructions, the only difference is in the butt and spoon installation. For bonded rows, a whole brick is used, and for spoon rows, half is used. When laying in multiple rows, alternation occurs, for example, in a three-row laying, one splice is placed every 3 spoons.

Nuances of laying facing bricks

The main difference between a facing block and a regular block is its decorative characteristics. It is used as a finishing coat. Therefore, it is extremely important to immediately install it correctly and carefully. Just as for a regular one, it is necessary to lay the first row of facing material dry and determine the places where the segments will be located. For sawing, a grinder with a stone disc is used.

Management:

  • One row is laid completely from one corner to the second.
  • Then they begin to form the corners, laying 5-6 rows.
  • To ensure that the seams are even and the cement-sand mixture does not fall on the building material, a metal template is used.
  • Once the corners are formed, a cord is stretched between them so that the next rows are even.
  • To ensure that the vertical seams are also even, use a metal template with a shorter length.
  • Each subsequent row is placed offset so that the vertical seams do not coincide.
  • If the mixture gets on the outer decorative side, it is removed immediately, since it is much more difficult to remove the solution after drying.
  • For self-made brickwork to be durable, it must be connected to the main wall. For this purpose, metal connections are used, for example, spiral nails. There should be at least 4 of them per 1 m2. The nails are screwed into the main wall so that they are in the seams between the bricks.

Beginner mistakes

Due to non-compliance with construction requirements and rules, emergency situations often occur. Cracks appear in the walls, and in some places the building material begins to fall off completely. If installation is carried out without the use of templates, plumbs and building levels, then the likelihood that it will be uneven is extremely high. Finishing such a wall with a finishing coating will be difficult and require increased costs.

  • Many novice builders lay brick without measuring the thickness of the joint, or do not use mortar at all for vertical joints. Walls laid according to this principle will poorly retain heat in the house, since the vertical seams will be blown through.
  • Bricks cannot be laid at an angle. It should only lie horizontally. Inexperienced builders often do not monitor the location of vertical seams; as a result, they begin to coincide, and this leads to the fragility of the structure, which can cause it to collapse.
  • Another common mistake is poorly filled seams. When applying mortar, builders do not calculate its rate or save too much. A house built with your own hands using this method will have reduced thermal insulation characteristics.
  • When laying facing material, you need to carefully monitor its cleanliness, since the entire appearance of the house depends on neatness.

It is quite possible even for inexperienced builders to lay bricks with their own hands. If it is necessary to strengthen the structure, then use reinforced mesh. It is placed every 4-5 rows.

- it’s not a tricky thing at first glance and not everyone knows how to do it. It is better to start learning this business with theory, and only then begin practice. Professional builders also once started from scratch. They, too, did not succeed right away, and there were mistakes, but since they have education in this field, they quickly corrected them and improved their skills.

Brickwork

- it’s a labor-intensive task. The service life directly depends on the quality of installation.

Anyone can learn how to lay bricks and, with the knowledge and skills, you can build a good building!

There are several types of masonry:

  1. The masonry is made of simple brick - solid;
  2. Masonry made of ordinary bricks in the form.
  3. Masonry made of ordinary bricks with horizontal connections in the form of bonded rows (concrete-brick).
  4. Ceramic slotted brick masonry.

The masonry is carried out in rows, the bricks are laid on sand-cement mortar. The next row is shifted slightly to the side, this is done so that the wall is strong. By the way, you also need to know how to make sand-cement mortar. To prepare it, you need to calculate the ingredients, otherwise the solution may not turn out to be the consistency you need.

Laying technology

The first row of bricks is laid on, while the unevenness of the latter is leveled using mortar. You need to know that before laying bricks you need to do g. Suitable materials for this purpose include bitumen mastic, fiberglass and other suitable materials.

Then we need to mark the walls, this is done using a special cord and level. Bricks are placed in the corners - beacons; they are installed at the intersections of walls and at nodes and window openings. If the walls are long, then intermediate beacons are placed, to which the cord will be attached. How smoothly the brick is laid is checked using a level and a block that is laid on the bricks.

Working professionals lay out the corners first. In the designated places, brick laying is done in 3-4 rows and directly on the foundation. Such actions allow you to reposition the cord to the next row. If the wall is thicker than half a brick, then the first row is laid perpendicular to the wall.

Various methods of laying bricks

It will be difficult for an inexperienced worker to comply. To do this you need a simple device that you can make yourself. For the device, you will need a wooden block with a piece nailed to it, the thickness of which is one cm. This piece of plywood should look like the letter “P”. The inside of the plywood should be equal to the length and width of the brick, and the height of the “legs” should be equal to the thickness of the seam.

The mortar is laid in the internal opening and the excess mortar is removed with a trowel. To simplify the work, take a special device. It is made from a couple of slats, the length of which is from one to one and a half meters, with holes made in them. The slats should be at a distance between the height of the brick and the width of the masonry joint. When this device is used, it is easier to carry the marking cord and the bricklaying comes out better.

To find out whether the brick was laid correctly, use a wooden or metal square in the corners.

When checking walls, use a plumb line. The mortar is usually applied with a trowel or trowel. Bricks are usually leveled with a mallet.

Preparing the solution


 Requirements for the solution:

  1. Plastic;
  2. No small pebbles.

Compound:

  1. water,
  2. sand.

For the solution, use grade M300 cement and sifted medium-grained sand. The ingredients should be taken in proportions of 1:4, where one part is cement and four parts are sand.

To improve viscosity and plasticity, clay is added to the solution. For a small amount of work, ready-made dry mixtures are used for the solution. Such mixtures contain all the necessary ingredients in the required quantity.

Add water to the finished mixture and stir well so that there are no lumps.

The readiness of the solution is checked as follows: throw a trowel with the blade down into the container where the solution is located, and if the trowel goes into the solution up to the handle, then the solution has been prepared correctly.

Brick laying process

Check the correct angle with a construction square!

Working with the solution

First of all, apply a layer of solution, then level it.

Mortar is applied to the sides of the brick, because this side of the brick will be pressed against another brick.

It is necessary to monitor the coincidence of the vertical seams; this will make it possible not to make inserts from small pieces of brick.

The brickwork is leveled not only with a mallet, but also with the handle of a trowel.

The exposed mortar is removed using a trowel and placed either in a container or on top of the wall. The masonry mixture is not spread on the side of the brick, but placed in a heap.

The formation of voids during the laying process must not be allowed!

Unstitching the seams

To give the house a beautiful look, you need to do the grouting. This is done with a special device. Such a tool can replace, for example, a segment. This technique will allow you to make beautiful seams and masonry.

We wish you good luck in your endeavors!