What to make a stove for the garage from. DIY wood stove for the garage

With thermal equipment, safety and reliability are important. In order not to worry about anything after installing the stove, you need to initially know what nuances to take into account when installing it, regarding the room itself:

There should be a space in the area opposite the door where you want to install the stove. Its size should be half a meter larger on each side of the stove to avoid ignition of nearby objects.
The room must have a ventilation system, at least a natural one.

Do not place any things close to the stove, especially those that are easily flammable, and make sure that when moving around the garage you do not get burned due to close contact with the heating device.

No matter how logical it may seem availability of ventilation in a garage with a heating system, it is required. The reasons for this are:

The accumulation of moisture and condensation is categorically harmful for the car, which is implied by the conditions of any garage, especially one that has heating. For this reason, ventilation is necessary; it will be able to pick up excess moisture with the flow of incoming air and remove it from the room;
the accumulation of toxic and dangerous substances for the body also implies actions that are usually carried out in a garage. A ventilated room will eliminate the possibility of toxic poisoning of the body, even after a very long stay in the garage.

Types of ovens

Considering the specificity of the garage heating system, it there are a number of characteristics that it must meet:

be small in size;
allow the use of solid and liquid fuel fractions;
high heating speed;
ability to maintain high temperature for a long time;
simplicity of design;
budget cost;
be convenient to use;
ease of maintenance.

Based on these criteria for suitability of garage stoves, they are divided into several types. The classification is based on the type of fuel:

Gas heating. Convenient in cases where there is central gas heating nearby. The price of such a system is acceptable, but there is a danger of explosion.
Bake, heated by solid fuel. The cost of installation and heating is low, the thermal effect is good. Convenient and easy to use.
Electric oven. There will be no questions regarding the quality of heating for such a stove, but the cost of heat in the garage will not be cheap.

The most optimal and popular option is a wood-heated stove. Such a stove can be purchased in a store, or you can design it yourself.

Designing a long-burning wood-burning garage stove with your own hands

Taking up the homemade stove, Some safety rules must be followed:

the floor under the stove should be covered with a sheet of metal that will protrude 1 m beyond the door;
protect the walls that will be located near the stove with bricks or metal sheets;
a gap of 2.5 cm wide should be left between the chimney and the ceiling, which must be filled with basalt fiber;
Provide protection from the wind to the gas duct by installing a deflector.

Materials that will be needed for the manufacture of heating equipment for the garage (the quantity and dimensions depend on the individual characteristics of the selected stove option):

a barrel of any size and volume made of metal, volume 200 l;
steel pipes, sections one longer, the other shorter;
a little metal channel;
hacksaw for metal, hammer, axe;
devices for measuring length;
reflector;
small steel sheet;
welding;
brick for the foundation for the stove;
cement and materials to prepare the solution.

Instructions for making a stove:

How to make a stove for the garage with your own hands?

It is best to make such a stove from a finished 200 liter barrel made of metal.

Initially, you need to prepare it for further manipulations. To do this, the top is cut off very evenly and neatly.

If it is not possible to use a barrel, then a large diameter pipe is suitable, to which the bottom should be welded. In this case, it is better to make the bottom in the shape of a square rather than a circle, so that there are no problems with stability in the future.

The next step in the design will be cutting out a circle from a steel sheet. It should be slightly smaller in size than the main diameter. In the same circle you need to cut another circle for the pipe. Next, you need to weld a small diameter pipe to a cut out circle of steel.
Next, the channel cut and prepared in advance is welded to the bottom of the same steel circle, already with a welded pipe.

It is worth taking measurements in such a way as to ensure free movement of the channel in the internal space of the barrel. This structure will make it possible to press on the mass of fuel that has already burned due to the lowering of the steel circle.

The next step is to make a cover for the heating structure. If the basis for it is a barrel, the upper part of it will be the lid. And if the base is a pipe, then you will have to cut a metal circle of the same diameter. You need to make a hole in the lid for a small pipe.
To make it possible to add fuel, you need to cut a hole for the door. A handle should be attached to the door for ease of opening and closing. You can install the door yourself by placing it on the hinges and welding it. You can use a purchased one.
Just below the main door, a hole is made for another one, through which burnt firewood will be removed.
Before installing the furnace, a mandatory step will be the construction of a foundation for it. This is done for the reason that a fireproof and durable base is a prerequisite. It is very simple to make, you just need to lay a layer of 1 brick and cement it.
No stove is complete without a chimney. In this case, it can be made from two pipes with a diameter of 15 cm. One should be welded on top, the other on the side and bent upward.
You should also take care of the reflectors, since rapid heating and a constantly heated state of the stove are ensured. The reflector will be able to redistribute heat flows. It is especially necessary in small rooms.
The last step is to assemble all the resulting elements together and weld them.

Some technical points that will facilitate the installation and further operation of the furnace:

At the assembly stage, it is recommended to connect all parts together in the opposite direction of gas flow.
As a precautionary measure, it is worth determining the distance at which objects that are not resistant to combustion and ignition should not be placed, as well as people should not be present, and mark it.
The design of the chimney itself must be such that, if necessary, it can be disassembled into parts and cleaned, after which it can be easily and quickly assembled and installed in place.
After installing the stove, it needs to be checked for operation in different modes so that the appropriate option can be selected.

To make sure you avoid any problems with your homemade heating system, It is recommended to consider the following factors:

the pipe must be at least 4 m high;
pipes can be turned a maximum of 3 times;
The rotation angles of the pipes can only be 30 degrees; in exceptional cases, 45 degrees can be made.
if necessary, remove the pipe horizontally, such a section can be no more than 1 m;
On the street, it is recommended to insulate the pipe using basal wool in order to prevent the formation of condensation;
ensure attachment to the chimney wall, removing the load from the main structure of the stove.

Providing comfortable conditions in the garage requires some effort, patience and expense. It should be remembered that it is very important to make it possible not only to heat the room, but also keep safe being in it.

The choice of heating method for a garage depends on the following factors:

length of stay of the hosts in winter;
cost of equipment;
energy availability, price;
Ease of use.

We propose to consider various options for solving the issue and figure out how to make the most economical and efficient garage heating with your own hands.

The better to heat or the choice of energy carrier

In 99% of cases, garage buildings are not connected to centralized heating networks or main gas, so owners have to choose autonomous heating methods. To heat a garage, you can use 4 groups of energy carriers:

various types of solid fuel - firewood, coal, briquettes, agricultural and other combustible waste;
diesel fuel, waste oil;
electricity;
liquefied gas in cylinders.

Advice. When you start choosing an option for heating your garage in winter, keep in mind an important rule: the more expensive the energy source, the easier and cheaper it is to organize heating that is convenient to use. Conversely, cheap or free fuel in the form of waste and garbage will bring a lot of trouble - labor costs and initial financial investments.

Solid fuel combustion

Wood and various waste are the cheapest fuel for heating, and in some cases it is available completely free of charge. In the southern regions, which are not rich in forests, another type of fuel is widely used - small agro-industrial waste.

For reference. Agricultural waste consists of small particles sifted from grain crops. These are pieces of stems, weeds chopped by a combine, straw and other waste. The energy price is very attractive and starts from 20 USD. e. for 1 ton.

After cleaning grains, waste remains that is used for heating

If you decide to heat your garage with solid fuel in the winter, get ready to deal with the following issues:

The gain is in money and excellent heating of a room of any size, the losing points are listed above. Add here the time for kindling and warming up (0.5-1 hour). Hence the conclusion: cheap heating with solid fuel is suitable for owners of garages and boxes who stay there for 4-6 hours or more every day.

Use of mining and diesel fuel

Heating a box or garage with diesel fuel purchased at a gas station is expensive and extremely unprofitable. An exceptional option is to heat a small area of the room where work is being done using a portable heater, whose characteristics are described.

Waste oil is a more financially economical energy carrier, although not the cheapest. This option can be seriously considered when used oils can be obtained at a reduced price. What are the features and pitfalls here:

Note. Due to their cheapness and simplicity, the oil miracle stoves shown in the photo have become especially popular. They tend to shoot flames when the fuel contains a small amount of water or antifreeze, causing a fire.

The advantages of using mining are high heat transfer, quick ignition and warming up of the garage box, ease of use (it’s easier to add oil than to chop and carry wood). The conclusion is this: if fuel is inexpensive, or you spend a little time in the garage, then liquid fuel is a suitable option. The initial investment is comparable to wood heating.

When using diesel fuel, it is worth considering the option of a factory-made diesel air heater of the “Planar” type, shown in the photo. With a fuel consumption of 250 ml in 1 hour, the unit develops heat transfer of up to 2 kW. There are also more powerful heaters - 3 and 4 kW with diesel consumption of 0.37 and 0.5 l/h, respectively. Price – within 330 USD. e.

Autonomous diesel-powered air heaters designed for cars

Electrical heating

Heating with electricity is the most comfortable and cheapest option in terms of initial investment. But during operation you will have to pay the full tariff - it makes no sense to install a two-zone meter, you are not going to work in the garage at night.

Let's list all the advantages of electric heating:

There are only two disadvantages, but they are critical: the price of electricity and the limitation of the power consumption limit, which does not allow installing an effective heat source. For example, if the contract with the management company specifies a figure of 3 kW, then a convector with only 2 kW is installed, which is not capable of properly heating the garage in the winter.

For reference. Sometimes car enthusiasts use homemade “goats” and fan heaters in the pits, despite the restrictions. Why you can’t do this: there is a danger of the wiring catching fire, the neighbors’ voltage drops, and if employees check the electrical networks, you will face a large fine or shutdown.

Electric heating is an option for short stays in the garage. They came, turned on the heater, completed the intended work in 1-2 hours, turned off the heating and left. If you turned the room into a workshop where you spend your working hours, you will have to pay significant amounts for energy consumption.

A standard wall convector heats the air in the room much slower than a fan heater

Gas heating

This method of heating a vehicle storage space is acceptable for residents of the Russian Federation, where the retail price of liquefied gas is quite low. It will be too expensive for Ukrainians to heat their garages with propane.

Autonomous heating from gas cylinders is as safe and comfortable as electric heating. Moreover, in the Russian Federation the cost of energy is lower. But there are a number of pitfalls here:

If you add up the financial costs, the problems of organizing such heating and refueling cylinders, then the negative aspects will cover up some of the positive aspects of ease of use.

A comparison of the cost of 1 kW of heat obtained from various energy sources in the conditions of Russia and Ukraine has been published.

How to organize air heating

This heating method involves direct heating of the air in the garage from a selected heat source. This can be any of the following units:

solid fuel stove;
furnace - dripper in production;
electric heater - convector, oil radiator or heat gun;
gas convector.

Note. We deliberately do not include in the list heating units that emit combustion products directly into the room - diesel stoves of the Savo type, direct heat guns and gas infrared heaters. Look through any automotive forum and see that users in the reviews complain about headaches and poor health from inhaling exhaust gases.

Such heaters emit diesel combustion products directly into the room

Installation of a wood-burning and exhaust stove

Direct heating of the air in the garage by burning cheap fuel - firewood and various waste - is the most economical heating method. But you need to organize it wisely, otherwise the heater will heat one corner of the room, while the opposite one will remain cold. It is clear that you cannot install a stove in the middle of the room, which means that the issue of heat distribution must be solved differently.

To make effective air heating of a garage or box with your own hands using a wood stove, use our recommendations:

Order, buy or make an economical potbelly stove yourself, not just an iron box with a pipe. You will find examples of stoves with drawings, diagrams and assembly instructions.
The heat exchange surface area of the heater walls must correspond to the dimensions of the room. The calculation is as follows: in order to add logs at intervals of 3-4 hours and evenly warm up a 20 m² garage, the heating surface area should be 1 m².
Convection fins are welded to the furnace body, increasing the surface area and improving heat transfer
The part of the housing around the ash pan is not taken into account (it heats up slightly). But the area of convective fins welded to the walls from the outside is taken into account.
Install the potbelly stove in the chosen location and be sure to organize airflow around the case with any fan - household, for hoods or a computer cooler. Thanks to the forced air movement, heat is more efficiently removed from the walls of the firebox and distributed more evenly throughout the box.
Options for blowing a wood stove with a fan
Before venting to the street, lay the chimney horizontally along the wall, so it will release more heat into the room.
Raise the chimney pipe to a height of 5 m, counting from the grate, and equip it with a damper to adjust the draft. Provide a condensate collector at the bottom; adjust the cap at your discretion.
A horizontally laid chimney allows you to increase the heat exchange surface area and improve room heating

Note. The calculation of the heat exchange surface area of the stove is taken from the practical experience of our expert Vitaly Dashko. The calculation is correct for garages with a height of no more than 3 m.

There are designs of homemade stoves designed for air heating of workshops, garages and other outbuildings. Below is a diagram of a potbelly stove made from a gas cylinder and equipped with a separate heating chamber through which air is blown by a fan. If necessary, water can also be driven through the heat exchanger.

Advice. If you have recently replaced a floor-standing gas boiler in your home, do not rush to throw it away. Take the old unit to the garage, connect it to the chimney and heat it with wood, pumping air into the empty water jacket using a cooler (from the bottom pipe). Then you won’t have to cook the oven.

All of the above applies equally to. The only difference is the placement of the fuel tank that feeds the dropper. Keep the tank away from the stove to prevent fire. Do not use a regular two-chamber miracle heater - it is a fire hazard and consumes up to 2 liters of waste per hour. Use models with a drip burner.

Placement of electric heaters

The first thing you need to do is to choose the right electrical heating appliances based on power. If you want to heat the entire garage, then measure its area and multiply the resulting quadrature by 0.1-0.15 kW. That is, a box of 20 m² will require 20 x 0.15 = 3 kW of thermal power (and it is equal to electrical power), sufficient to maintain positive air temperatures.

Different heating methods can be combined. For example, it makes sense to hang an infrared panel above a workbench to provide local heating. Heat the rest of the garage with a stove or a heat gun - whichever is more profitable. Don't forget - it is necessary when burning any type of fuel.

Water heating system

You need to understand that installing water heating makes sense when you are in the garage all the time. Otherwise, the costs will not justify themselves, because in addition to a source of heat and fuel, you will need to buy:

cast iron or steel batteries (as an option, weld registers from pipes);
circulation pump;
expansion tank;
pipes on the main line;
non-freezing coolant - antifreeze.

For reference. The garage space is heated periodically, so the system cannot be filled with plain water.

Knowing the need for the amount of heat to heat the room (calculated in the previous section), or determine the length of the pipes of a homemade register using the table:

In the table, t1 means the coolant temperature, t2 means the air in the room

The calculation method is as follows. We take a steel pipe DN 80 (Ø89 mm) and find out from the table that 1 m of length is enough to heat an area of 1.37 m². We take the square footage of the garage, for example, 20 m² and divide by this figure: 20 / 1.37 = 14.6 m - the total length of the heating part. We distribute it among 2-3 heating devices and cook the registers according to the drawing.

Take the circulation pump of the lowest pressure (4 m of water column), the expansion tank - the minimum volume. Pipes - polypropylene, steel or metal-plastic size DN 15. Then install radiators on 2 opposite walls and assemble a simple two-pipe closed-type heating system connected to a heat source according to the following diagram:

Advice. Do not forget to add a filter to the circuit - a mud trap and ball valves to cut off the heat source and drain water from the system. At the top point, install an automatic air vent, and on the batteries - Mayevsky valves for bleeding air.

Why don’t we recommend making an open-type system in the garage, as it is simpler and cheaper? The reason is antifreeze, which will evaporate from an open tank, which is unsafe for health (ethylene glycol is poisonous), not to mention the price of the coolant.

Western European experience

If you type the phrase “garage heating” in the search and look at pictures on English-language sites, you will not find any wood-burning or oil-fired stoves in Western European garages. How do local motorists warm themselves:

We have already discussed the first 2 options above. The third method is also far from new: water heated in the boiler passes through a radiator, blown by a powerful axial fan. Ideally, the unit is suspended from the ceiling and distributes hot air throughout the room.

The advantages of this option are compactness, speed of heating and the possibility of air conditioning in the summer (cooled water is sent to the radiator instead of heated water).

Heater made from a car radiator

There is one downside - increased costs for equipment, because the coolant must be heated in the boiler and supplied through pipes to the heater. But if the garage is attached to a private house, then the problem is easily solved by connecting the radiator to the building’s water heating system.

Reference. Many garage craftsmen already use such heating, installing a homemade analogue of a heater made from a car radiator and any suitable fan. How this is implemented, look at the video:

From all of the above, as well as on the basis of practical observations, the following conclusions suggest themselves:

Despite all the difficulties with burning solid fuels, firewood and other waste occupy a leading position among energy sources due to their reasonable price.
For the same reason, most garages have air heating. It is simple to implement and allows you to quickly warm up the room.
Air heating is made more effective by forced blowing of the heat source or pumping air through the heating chamber.
Water heating is more appropriate in workshops and car repair shops; for a private box the system is a bit expensive.
Electric garage heating is an auxiliary or short-term option that is easy to implement, but difficult to pay for during operation.

Whatever method of garage heating you choose, the degree of insulation of the building will play a big role. An iron frame with slots in the gates does not retain heat at all and cannot be heated, so heating it is expensive and pointless. Another thing is that the walls are made of foam blocks or insulated on the outside with polystyrene foam; savings when heating such a garage are quite achievable.

Often, a full-fledged heating system is not installed in the garage. This is due to the relatively rare use of the premises and its small area. But for long-term work in the cold season, it is recommended to make a garage oven from metal, which is quite possible with your own hands. Design drawings and specifications may vary depending on heating requirements.

Homemade stove for the garage: parameters and operating conditions

It is important to initially determine the location of the structure. It should not take up much space, and during operation it should not interfere with free movement around the garage or the performance of certain operations. Most often, a corner location of the stove is chosen.

The manufacture and installation of the furnace is carried out according to the following conditions:

Mandatory installation of a chimney. Its height must be at least 3 meters.
Fuel selection. The best option is to use firewood, coal or diesel fuel. Electric stoves or those running on bottled gas are much less common.
Preparing the base for installing the boiler, installing heat-resistant materials on the walls.

Before starting this work, you need to choose the optimal stove design for the garage. The choice depends on the volume of the heated area, the presence of a hob and the overall budget. As an example, you can consider the drawings of the most suitable homemade products.

Scheme of a simple "potbelly stove"

This is the best option to save space. Structurally, the furnace consists of a cylindrical or cubic body, divided into a combustion chamber and an ash pan. It can be made from barrels. The thickness of the steel must be at least 1.5 mm. The socket for the chimney pipe is located at the rear of the structure to connect the vertical pipe.

A gas cylinder can be used as a housing. It is first cleared of paint, holes are made for the doors, and a grate is installed.
When making a metal case yourself, 1.5 mm thick steel is used, the connection is made by welding.
The intensity of fuel combustion is regulated by changing the position of the ash pan door. This way the traction is controlled.
Additionally, you can install a cutter - a shelf at 2/3 of the height of the combustion chamber. This contributes to economical consumption of burned fuel.

The advantage of this design is the ease of manufacture and the ability to install the hob. The disadvantage is high fuel consumption.

Long burning mini-boiler

For long-lasting garage heating, it is recommended to consider long-burning. The essence of its work is to use wood gases as fuel. They arise as a result of smoldering firewood. Unlike the option described above, a long-burning metal garage stove has a large chamber for loading fuel, a pressure system consisting of a telescopic pipe and a flat base. This block is located at the top of the structure.

After loading the fuel, it is ignited from below. Restricting the flow of oxygen provokes the process of smoldering. The resulting gas enters the afterburner chamber, where it is enriched with oxygen and ignites.

Features of the design:

you can use a barrel or gas cylinder as a body;
to enrich the gas with oxygen, install a low-power fan;
the pipe for connecting the chimney is located horizontally;
low temperature in the chimney pipe can cause condensation, so it is recommended to use sandwich structures.

The average operating time on one load of fuel can be 8-12 hours. This depends on the volume of the furnace and the speed of air supply to the afterburning chamber.

Waste oil garage oven

The principle is to use fuel vapor. To make it, you can also take a small gas cylinder. At the bottom there is a fuel container. The vapors rise through a pipe with holes, and a fire occurs there.

It is not recommended to use this model for a garage. This is due to the high probability of gas contamination in the room, since combustion products partially enter the garage before entering the chimney. There may also be problems with fuel storage.

When choosing a stove design for a garage, you should take into account the complexity of its maintenance and frequency of use. But the determining factors are the cost of the design and the complexity of its manufacture.

Unfortunately, for many car enthusiasts, central vehicles located far from home are not provided with technology. In the cold season, the temperature in the room becomes, to put it mildly, not comfortable, and in severe frosts it becomes simply unbearable. A standard electric one practically cannot cope with the problem: electricity bills rise, but the amount of heat remains almost unchanged. The way out of the situation is to make a stove for the garage with your own hands.

A garage is a special place. This is a room with limited space in which the car owner sometimes spends a lot of time. Therefore, the following requirements apply to the installation of a garage stove:

compact dimensions;
possibility of using solid or liquid fuel;
ability to quickly warm up;
the ability to maintain high room temperature for a long time;
simple design;
relatively low price of materials;
ease of operation and maintenance.

A small stove made of refractory bricks, some types of potbelly stoves, as well as units that use waste materials can pass the test for compliance with these requirements.

When planning to make a stove for the garage with your own hands, do not forget about safety issues. Heating equipment should not noticeably reduce the amount of oxygen in the room and emit hazardous substances when heated. In addition, the possibility of fire in materials surrounding the stove should be prevented.

Option #1 - reliable and efficient brick

Brick ovens are not often found in garages, since this option is quite labor-intensive. Such a device occupies a small area, approximately 2x2.5 bricks. For masonry, refractory bricks are taken, and a solution of sand, refractory clay and fireclay powder is mixed.

When making a brick oven for a garage, a special fireclay brick is used, and when mixing the solution, it is recommended to add fireclay powder

For the combustion chamber, fireclay bricks are used at the level of the second, third and fourth rows of brickwork. The height of such a brick kiln is usually nine bricks. To remove furnace gases, a brick chimney is installed into which a stainless steel sleeve is inserted. The chimney is usually brought out through the roof.

Beginning builders who decide to build a brick stove in the garage should discuss the nuances of the project with an experienced stove maker - after all, this is a whole science worthy of its own profession. If significant flaws are made during the work, the masonry will have to be destroyed and completely redone.

Brick stoves are widely used not only for heating garages, but also for providing heat to homes. You can fold them yourself. Our website provides detailed instructions and articles on this topic. For example, this one: .

Option #2 - homemade potbelly stove

The easiest way to make a stove for a garage with your own hands is from metal, i.e., make an ordinary potbelly stove. To do this, use sheet metal, a metal pipe or a barrel. It is easier to make a cubic-shaped unit from a metal sheet, and from a pipe or barrel, of course, you will get a cylindrical potbelly stove. The thickness of the metal in any case must be at least 5 mm. A metal pipe suitable for making a potbelly stove must be wide enough, at least 300 mm in diameter.

To make a potbelly stove for your garage with your own hands, you will need sheet metal or a metal container of suitable size, as well as a corner, pipes and other materials

It is preferable to organize the outlet of the chimney from above, but sometimes it is more convenient to do this from the rear wall. In the latter case, care must be taken that the chimney slope is at least 30 degrees. To effectively remove exhaust gases, it is preferable to use a metal pipe with a diameter of 120 mm or more. In the first meters, the chimney pipe should be quite thick - 2-3 mm. Thinner material will quickly burn out if constantly heated.

A place for ash disposal should be provided directly under the firebox. To do this, use a horizontal metal plate with slots. The size of the slots depends on the size of the stove and the type of fuel. For a small stove burning coal and small wood, the slot sizes should be 10-12 mm, and for a large wood-burning stove, the slots should be at least 40 mm.

A removable box is installed under the partition, which is periodically cleaned as ash accumulates. Three-millimeter sheet steel is used for the box. To increase the efficiency of a potbelly stove, metal plates 5 mm thick are welded perpendicular to its sides. This increases the area of contact of air with the heating unit and the room heats up faster.

You will find detailed instructions for installing a potbelly stove for a summer house and garage in our next article:.

When cutting sheet metal, you should take into account the thickness of the material itself, as well as the thickness of the grinder disc. An interesting option for making a potbelly stove from gas cylinders is presented in the video:

Option #3 - waste oil stove

Firewood and coal are not available everywhere, but every car enthusiast has some amount of used engine oil. Therefore, the unit that uses such oil is very popular. Although its design is somewhat more complicated than that of a potbelly stove, you can easily make such a stove for the garage with your own hands.

A waste oil furnace for a garage consists of two sections, in the first of which waste oil is burned, and the second is designed to burn the resulting gases mixed with air

The exhaust furnace is an H-shaped device consisting of:

fuel tank;
afterburning chambers;
temperature chamber;
chimney.

The vapors generated during the combustion of the main fuel enter the next chamber and mix with air in it. Here, additional combustion occurs at a very high temperature, which ensures high efficiency of the device.

A waste oil furnace is made from sheet metal. For the lower tank, you can use a ready-made metal box, to which the legs should be welded. You need to make a hole in it with a metal flap. Fuel is supplied to it, and the supply of primary air is controlled by a damper.

The upper chamber has a cylindrical shape. It is connected to the tank by a metal pipe, in which holes with a diameter of 10 mm are made for the intake of secondary air. The chimney in such a stove should be installed exclusively from above.

In such a furnace, you can use a variety of types of waste: diesel oil, transmission oil, petroleum oil, transformer oil, as well as kerosene, diesel fuel, fuel oil, etc. However, the use of flammable substances such as acetone, gasoline or solvents is unacceptable, although a small amount of gasoline can be used. use when lighting the stove.

We have written more about this type of oven in the article:

Option #4 - long-burning wood stove

The peculiarity of a long-burning stove is that there is no need to add firewood to it for 10-15 or even 20 hours. This result is achieved using a full fuel load and a special damper. The draft in the stove becomes moderate, after which the wood does not burn, but rather slowly smolders. The intensity of combustion is regulated using air.

In a long-burning stove, wood does not burn, but smolders, which allows you to heat the garage for 10-20 hours without adding wood to the firebox

To make a long-burning stove, it is recommended to use a ready-made metal barrel with a volume of 200 liters. The top part of the barrel is cut off and a hole is made in it for the chimney pipe. In addition, a hole should be made for a 100 mm pipe through which air will flow. To ensure effective draft and complete removal of fuel combustion products, the diameter of the chimney of a long-term combustion furnace must be at least 150 mm.

Then the load is made. This is a circle cut out of sheet metal, to which a couple of pieces of channel are welded. The size of the circle should allow it to move freely inside the barrel. Then a hole is cut out, to which a piece of 100 mm pipe is welded. As an alternative to a barrel, you can use a fairly long piece of large-diameter metal pipe. To make the bottom, you can weld not a round, but a square piece of metal to the edge of the pipe to make the structure more stable.

The load is inserted into the barrel, and the top is covered with a lid. In this case, the air supply pipe is inserted into the hole cut for it. It remains to cut two hatches: for supplying wood to the stove and for removing ash. The hatches are covered with metal covers. A finished long-burning stove is usually installed on a special brick foundation.

Sometimes purchasing some finished products can be financially difficult, so you may need to make them yourself. For example, making a stove for a garage at first glance may seem like an impossible task, but if all the rules are followed, the idea can be easily brought to life.

Let's take a closer look at the features and types of garage stoves, and also get acquainted with the intricacies of their own manufacture.

Peculiarities

Some car enthusiasts spend a lot of time in the garage, repairing or improving their car. A garage stove is not an entirely ordinary product, since it is somewhat different from a classic stove in both appearance and functional characteristics. But besides this, the product has a lot of advantages, the main ones being efficiency and the financial side of the issue.

Garage heating is important not only from the point of view of heating the air, it is also necessary to maintain an appropriate atmosphere in the room.

The fact is that dampness often occurs in the garage, which can lead to the appearance of mold and fungi, and uniform heating eliminates such problems.

And the minimal costs for manufacturing materials and fuel will allow you to save a lot and will not cause a significant blow to the budget.

Primary requirements

Since garage stoves are mainly used to heat small spaces, it is necessary to take into account some of the requirements that a particular product must meet.

Depending on the dimensions of the room, it is necessary to choose the best design option and decide which stove heating is best suited and which model will be the most relevant and effective - a brick product or an option from an empty cylinder.

It is important that the product not only has the highest efficiency, but also complies with all safety rules. To avoid smoke entering the room and causing a threat to life, you must make sure that the chimney is constructed according to all the rules and is carefully sealed. Acrid smoke vapors should never enter the room.

All flammable objects and combustible substances must be kept at a safe distance from the product, so you should take care of the location of the stove in advance. Raw materials of dubious origin should not be used for kindling, as the vapors and gases released may be harmful to health.

When using metal models, the heating time should be divided into several periods. It is better to light the stove two or three times rather than resort to a long burning period. This is due to the fact that the metal can become excessively hot and its contact with any flammable materials will lead to a fire.

Cleaning the chimney and the stove as a whole should be done, although infrequently, but regularly - up to three times a year.

During kindling and throughout the entire procedure for burning raw materials, it is necessary to keep the door closed in order to prevent fire from entering the outside and spreading throughout the room.

In addition, do not dispose of smoldering particles near structures or in areas with abundant vegetation in the form of shrubs or dry grass. All garbage must be burnt to ashes or previously extinguished.

Types and materials for manufacturing

To build furnaces of this type yourself, there is no need to purchase specialized parts or manufacture individual particles. Sometimes even improvised materials are suitable for work, which can be bought at a very low cost or even received for free. But some requirements for metals and brick products used for the construction of the structure are absolutely justified.

For example, metal elements involved in the production process must be resistant to high temperatures. The heat-resistant properties of materials will not prevent the metal from heating up, but will not allow it to melt.

Let's take a closer look at all the types of designs and the intricacies of manufacturing certain models.

Potbelly stove

Perhaps the most common option for a garage stove is a potbelly stove. Such models were popular at the beginning of the 20th century and, being easy to use and very practical, were able to practically replace fireplaces. Potbelly stoves were popular in houses and apartments until the advent of central heating, and after that they began to be used only when necessary.

The frame of the entire stove, including both the main part and the chimney, is made of metal, which, on the one hand, is a plus, and on the other, a rather significant minus, since when you stop maintaining the firebox and adding firewood, the stove cools down very quickly and the room is again getting cold.

A potbelly stove is a very economical product, since its production does not require any large expenses. For manufacturing, you can use, for example, propane cylinders or large iron pipes with dense walls, which must have considerable strength.

Iron barrels are also quite suitable, but their choice should be given special attention. The barrel should not be too large, since a stove with too large dimensions will be bulky and not entirely practical, but it should have fairly thick walls - from 2 to 5 mm.

There are types of potbelly stoves with a water circuit, which are slightly different from the classic models. Heating of this structure is carried out by increasing the temperature of the water, as well as the evaporation of a certain amount of it, so the walls remain hot longer and radiate heat for a much longer time, heating the room.

The duration of heat distribution is the main advantage of this model, since the distribution and maintenance of heat can be enough even to heat a small country house. As for a small garage space, for those who spend most of their time working on the car, this is an excellent heating design option.

Brick structures

In addition to compact and easy-to-use potbelly stoves, there is also a variant of brick structures, which has a number of both advantages and disadvantages.

This model retains heat much longer because it needs a longer time to cool down. This heat capacity is ensured both due to the thermoregulatory properties of the brick and due to the rather large weight of the structure as a whole.

For a brick model, it is necessary to have a damper, which is also called a blower, thanks to which you can regulate the temperature in the room. The main thing is to learn how to use such functions of this model, since improper use of the damper can even harm your health.

When making a brick oven yourself, you can save a lot of money, since the material is quite inexpensive, and the process is not so labor-intensive as to involve third-party labor. The main thing is to calculate the required amount of brick and cement, as well as purchase the necessary cast iron parts.

The heating power directly depends on the size of the firebox, therefore, depending on the functional features of the room itself, you can make a suitable size heating structure with the appropriate power.

In addition, the operation of such a product is also very economical, since kindling does not require any special means. Both coal and most ordinary firewood will do.

But, unfortunately, this product also has some disadvantages that can slightly overshadow the process of using the stove.

This design takes a long time to cool down, but also heats up for quite a long time., so there may be some problems with quickly warming up the room. In addition, in order to maintain a certain temperature in the room, it is necessary to light the stove daily.

If you want to make your heating structure durable and reliable, you will most likely have to purchase a special brick with fire-resistant properties, which costs several times more than regular bricks. Therefore, the issue of saving can be considered very controversial.

How to do it yourself?

For those who are not involved in plumbing and construction, making a stove with your own hands may seem like a complex and time-consuming process. But the designs are sometimes so simple that a heating unit can sometimes be built even from improvised means.

But you shouldn’t do everything at random; to make a homemade structure, you should first draw up all the necessary drawings and provide for all the advantages and disadvantages. Let's take a closer look at which products have the highest efficiency and what you need to know to make them.

Vertical

The most common option for making a stove from a cylinder, barrel or pipe is a vertical model, since the design is very compact and does not take up much space in the horizontal space.

First you need to select a cylindrical part that is suitable in size and parameters. Then you need to divide the main part into two, different in size. The lower, narrower element will be intended for ash, and the upper space will be for kindling with firewood.

Next, you need to make square holes in the resulting parts. The lower one can be small, but the upper one should be quite wide, allowing you to easily place firewood into the interior of the stove.

The cut parts cannot be thrown away, as they will be useful for making doors - you just need to attach hinges to them.

Inside, at the place where the stove is divided into two parts, it is necessary to weld a strong grate. You can purchase a ready-made part and adjust it to size, or make it yourself. To do this, you will need steel reinforcement bars, the thickness of which is from 12 to 16 mm. The rods must be cut into parts of certain sizes and welded to the base at a distance of two centimeters from each other.

If there is no bottom, it will need to be welded and a hole cut in the upper part that will serve as a chimney. A pipe is attached to the hole, then its individual parts are assembled and the result is a full-fledged chimney capable of removing smoke from the room.

This completes the DIY construction of a vertical potbelly stove and the product is ready for use.

Horizontal

Another option for the location of a homemade iron potbelly stove is a horizontal position. As already mentioned, the disadvantage of this design is its bulkiness, because it takes up quite a lot of space on the floor, so the horizontal option is absolutely not suitable for small garage spaces.

So how do you make such a stove model? It's quite simple. Both a large cylinder and a large rocket tube are suitable for manufacturing.

With a horizontal arrangement, there is no need to divide the main part into two parts, since the ash box is made separately and welded to one of the rounded sides. The box should have a rectangular shape and smooth lower edges, which will also serve as a support.

To ensure that the ash does not remain in the body, but gets into the box, it is necessary to drill several holes along the entire perimeter of the wall that is located directly above it. The holes should not be too large to prevent burning particles from entering them, but not too small either.

The next stage in the manufacture of the stove is the construction of the chimney. To do this, you need to select a pipe that is not too large in diameter and cut a corresponding hole in the upper part of the body for it, to which the part will be welded.

It is worth paying special attention to the welding site, since the seam must be smooth, neat and without small holes - smoke should under no circumstances penetrate into the room.

If necessary, you can make the legs separately. They will help the structure stand evenly and firmly in place.

Next, the door is made - a hole is cut out, hinges are welded to the iron part and the whole thing is attached to the body. It’s not scary if there are gaps left when closing – they will let air through, which will contribute to better combustion.

After constructing the door, you need to clear the body of debris and you can start kindling.

From two barrels

Sometimes the use of a classic potbelly stove or structures made of single-layer metal becomes impossible, since the walls become very hot and emit too much thermal radiation, excessively overheating the room. It was to solve this problem that the design of two barrels was invented.

First you need to select barrels of different sizes and place one inside the other. It is important that there is sufficient distance between their walls in order to evenly cover it with pebbles, sand or clay (in some cases special mixtures are made).

Before pouring the mixture, it must be heated over a fire and then cooled.

The outer barrel is solely the body, but the inner one is used for kindling. The barrels must also have all the necessary openings, an ash box and a chimney. To build a door, you will need to close the gap between the two parts using welding and metal to prevent the sand and pebble filler from spilling out.

Although this design takes a little longer to heat up and does not immediately begin to release heat, heating the room, it allows you to maintain a more comfortable atmosphere in the garage and takes longer to cool down after the fire is completed.

Long burning

From an empty gas cylinder you can build a structure that will serve as a long-burning heating device. The idea, although not new, gained a foothold among the masses relatively recently, when instructions for making the most reliable and safe design appeared on one of the forums.

The long-burning stove has one feature, which is also a disadvantage of the product– it does not have a separate drawer for ash, so to clean the interior, you will have to turn the body over and shake everything out manually.

The advantage of the product is that the stove is very easy to manufacture and, armed with a welding machine, it can be manufactured within a few hours.

The design is built in such a way that the combustion process begins at the top and gradually spreads down. This is what causes long-term combustion - the flame spreads gradually and rather slowly. But at the same time, the heating of the stove and the space around it also slows down slightly.

This model must be cylindrical in shape and can only be positioned vertically. Therefore, both cylinders and wide iron pipes, as well as standard metal barrels, are suitable for its manufacture.

The design has a moving part inside the cylinder, which is a small pipe and a metal circle that serves as a load. These parts must be welded together.

Thanks to this structure, air gets inside the product, providing more intense combustion.

This model of garage stove has a removable lid and a chimney in the upper part of the side. The dimensions of the chimney are determined individually, based on the parameters of the room, but on average it is approximately 2-3 meters. It is important that smoke does not enter the garage, as this can be hazardous to health and life.

The bulk of firewood and sawdust is placed in the lower part of the product - at the bottom, a certain amount of combustible material is added to the load. During the combustion process, it sinks lower and lower and the main filling gradually begins to burn. As soon as all the wood has burned out, the stove will begin to cool down quite quickly and a new portion of fuel will be needed.

It is important to know that before starting to manufacture the oven, the body must be thoroughly washed from the inside., especially if it is an empty gas cylinder. After that, the top part of the cylinder needs to be cut off - this part will serve as a lid. If a barrel or pipe is used for production, the lid must be made separately according to individual parameters.

In the upper part of the lid you need to make a hole for the pipe, and on the side - an outlet for the chimney. Next, the inner tube is welded to the circle and installed inside, all parts are attached to each other and securely fixed.

And for ease of use, small handles can be attached to the lid and even the body itself.

To make the design easier, some improvements are being introduced into the manufacturing process. For example, in the lower part of such a furnace, you can still build a special space for ash with a small door, from which you can easily remove all the contents.

But in order to prevent a large amount of oxygen from entering through the bottom door and accelerating the combustion process, you need to make it airtight. This way, air will not be able to penetrate into the interior space due to the tightly closed opening.

Another improvement is to install a number of specially shaped ribs on a metal circle. Thanks to this innovation, the air will distribute evenly throughout the stove, which will have a beneficial effect on the entire heating process.

Brick

The construction of a brick structure is perhaps the most labor-intensive and time-consuming process, since there is no ready-made frame, but only consumables.

To make a small but functional model, we will need:

ceramic bricks - about 300 pieces;
special door for the firebox with dimensions 250x180 mm;
ash grate – 240x250 mm;
blower door – 130x130 mm;
valve – 130x130 mm;
cast iron panel that will serve as a hob - 720x290 mm.

In order for the structure to be of high quality and strong, it is necessary to lay the elements on a clay mortar, keeping the thickness of the seams to one and a half centimeters. You should know that for the construction of this furnace it is necessary to build a special foundation, which will not only increase the service life of the product, but will also help to comply with all fire safety measures.

Brick laying is done in a special way - the bottom nine rows have practically no similarities with each other, the bricks are arranged according to a special pattern to ensure maximum strength and efficiency of the product.

When laying, it will be necessary to make holes where the cast iron elements will be placed.

The place for casting should be a little larger in size, since bricks tend to expand when heated, and if the masonry is too tight, cracks may appear, thereby the structure will quickly begin to dry out and fall apart.

In addition, you should know that to maintain thermal insulation properties, you may need a special material that serves as a heat exchanger. Particles of asbestos cord or heat-resistant mineral wool fibers are ideal. And to regulate heat transfer, you can use a valve, which will also help control the temperature in the room depending on the time of year.

Fuel types

To light any stove you will need the right fuel, and a homemade garage copy is no exception.

Stocking up on diesel fuel - diesel fuel - is much easier than purchasing wood raw materials for the garage, but it has a lot of disadvantages and is considered the most fire hazardous. Combustion in a furnace when using this fuel occurs due to heating of the liquid and combustion of the released vapors.

A design that runs on waste oil is no less dangerous and prone to unwanted fires. The thing is that the flame flares up with lightning speed and sparks can accidentally fall on flammable substances and objects located nearby.

In addition, stove models that run on liquid fuel have another drawback - an unpleasant oily smell that spreads during the combustion process. Otherwise, they are quite functional and economical.

Perhaps the most common and safest option is a heating product that runs on wood. But some users believe that the raw material burns too slowly, which also affects the spread of heat. This problem can be solved quite simply - you can equip the structure with a mini-fan. If you place this element during the manufacturing process, it will promote better air circulation, which will have a beneficial effect on the combustion and kindling process.

It is also worth noting that for a long-burning stove, in some cases a combined fuel option is used.

It is not enough to simply make a high-quality product and decide on its location; it is also necessary to install it correctly and securely fasten it. Although some models have the ability to move and move the oven, a fixed position is still important for safe use.

First of all, it is worth noting that the product should be installed exclusively on a flat surface. Even a minimal tilt is unacceptable, as this can lead to uneven distribution of fuel inside the firebox and its careless release onto the floor during the combustion process.

In addition, the stove should not just be installed on the floor. It is best to use an asbestos-cement slab or brick surface for this. This nuance is not only a fire safety precaution, but also allows you to protect this or that floor covering from damage.

Professionals also advise using metal sheets to enclose the product on all sides where there are small holes, crevices or lattice elements. If sparks or burning particles get outside, the sheets will not allow them to get on household items, which will prevent the spread of fire.

For more information on how to properly lay a brick oven, see the following video.