In many houses and gardens you can see small shrubs whose lush caps of inflorescences captivate and captivate with their rare pastel shades. This unique plant is called hydrangea. As a houseplant, hydrangea settled in European homes back in the 18th century. Since then, breeders have developed a large number of its varieties and varieties, which never cease to amaze with their beauty.
This is a favorite plant for many at home. requires specific care and certain growing conditions. That is why, before placing such an exquisite beauty in your home, you need to find out how to care for hydrangea correctly.
Decorative characteristics of hydrangea
Hydrangea is a beautiful flowering perennial shrub. The flower grows in the form of a compact multi-stemmed bush with beautiful, large, rich green leaves.
The plant can have two types of flowers - small fruit-bearing and large sterile. Globular hydrangea inflorescences look like big hats. The color of the flowers can be pink, lilac, cream, pale white, light green. The color depends on the soil pH. Alkaline soil gives the inflorescences a pink and lilac tint, acidic soil gives blue, and neutral soil gives white. The sepals of the flowers add decorativeness and shade to the inflorescences, while the flowers themselves are colorless.
At home, with proper care, the plant can grow up to one meter. On one bush, a houseplant can have from 1 to 7 spectacular inflorescences, which are located above the upper leaves of the shoots. A blooming hydrangea ball can reach up to 30 centimeters in diameter. The fewer inflorescences on a plant, the larger they are.
Indoor hydrangeas, compared to garden ones, are more compact, but the intensity of their colors is higher.
The most popular varieties of indoor hydrangea
At home, only large-leaved hydrangea is grown in a pot, which currently numbers more than 100 varieties.
Blue varieties:
- Ramars Mars - the bush is compact and has inflorescences with a diameter of about 20 cm;
- "Early Blue" is a tall plant with bright blue inflorescences.
Varieties with red inflorescences:
- “Prima” is a medium-flowering variety with small flowers, inflorescences 15-18 cm in diameter and a stem height of 20-25 cm;
- “Red sensation” - the plant is distinguished by burgundy-red inflorescences, which, after adding aluminum sulfate or iron salts to the soil, become burgundy-violet.
Pink varieties:
- “Europe” is a tall (40-50 cm), profusely flowering bush with an inflorescence up to 25 cm in diameter and large flowers with a diameter of 6 cm;
- “Hamburg” is a plant whose height is from 35 to 40 cm, blooms profusely with large flowers with a diameter of 4-5 cm;
- “Goliath” - the variety is distinguished by a bush height of 60-70 cm, sepals with deeply cut edges, dark pink large inflorescences and late flowering.
Varieties with cream and white inflorescences:
- Souer Tharese is an early flowering plant with a low growing bush up to 40 cm high, inflorescences with a diameter of 15-17 cm and flowers of regular shape;
- M - me E . Mouillere - distinguished by rather narrow leaves, flowers with 2-6 cm and inflorescences with a diameter of 18 to 20 cm.
Hydrangea - home care
Hydrangea cannot be classified as an easy-to-grow indoor crop. The plant is demanding not only in terms of maintenance conditions, but also in strict adherence to certain rules for its care. This spectacular but capricious flower does not forgive negligence and mistakes.
The hardest thing to follow is maintain cyclical development hydrangeas in a pot. The flower must be carefully taken care of at the stage of bud formation, and wintering conditions must be carefully monitored.
Hydrangea is a deciduous shrub whose foliage does not persist even at room temperatures. During the dormant period, the plant sheds its leaves. At this time, he needs to provide a cool place and adjust watering and fertilizing. This period lasts two and a half months in the winter season. In spring, the plant begins to actively grow.
Lighting for hydrangeas at home
The plant's light requirements are the same for both garden and indoor conditions. Hydrangea prefers a bright place protected from direct rays. It is best to place a flower with a pot two to three meters from the south window. Direct rays of the sun will cause the leaves to lose their decorative appearance and jeopardize flowering.
The intensity of hydrangea lighting should not change throughout the year. Reducing light in winter can have a detrimental effect on the flower. Therefore, the plant needs to be moved to a brighter place, or fluorescent lamps should be used to increase daylight hours. A plant experiencing a lack of light in winter will weaken, become vulnerable to pests and diseases, and lose its decorative effect.
In addition to good lighting, indoor shrubs love fresh air. Therefore, the room must be regularly ventilated without creating drafts. In summer, hydrangeas in pots feel most comfortable on balconies and loggias with shading, on terraces and in cool places in the garden.
Indoor hydrangeas require cool conditions. For many years they will delight with their flowering only in a room where the air temperature does not exceed +20C.
In winter, when the plant is dormant, you should also not forget to care for it. At this time of year the temperature range should be from +4C to +9C. This indoor crop can even overwinter on a glazed balcony or loggia. In this case, the shoots will need to be cut by two-thirds, cover the plant with spruce branches, and wrap it in non-woven material. It’s okay if the shoots freeze in winter. After pruning, the plant will quickly recover, begin to grow leaves and bloom.
The comfortable temperature for hydrangea is indicated by its green leaves. If the flower begins to shed them, it means that the room is too warm for it.
In addition to cool conditions, hydrangea requires high humidity. For this you can buy a humidifier, or place a saucer or tray with wet moss and stones next to the pot.
Watering and fertilizing hydrangeas
The plant is a moisture-loving crop, so it must be watered frequently and abundantly throughout its active growth. while observing some rules.
- The soil around the roots should be kept moist at all times, but the top layer should be well dry before watering. In this case, the roots will not rot and the plant will not get sick.
- During the dormant period, the frequency of watering is gradually reduced. In the winter season, you just need to make sure that the earthen ball does not dry out.
- As soon as new leaves begin to appear on the bush, watering is also gradually resumed.
- It is recommended to water the plant with soft, settled water at room temperature.
Summer hydrangea fed with mineral fertilizers. Twice a week, the flower is watered with a solution prepared from 30 g of potassium sulfate, 40 g of superphosphate, 30 g of ammonium nitrate. All prepared ingredients are mixed and dissolved in a bucket of water.
From mid-August, feeding stops. At this time, the vegetative growth of the plant will begin to stop, and flower buds will begin to form. Weak shoots and root shoots will need to be removed.
Features of transplanting indoor hydrangea
Caring for hydrangea at home involves annual replanting. The soil should be fertile, consisting of turf, leaf soil and sand (3:3:1).
Since the root system of the plant is horizontal, it is recommended to select a wide and spacious pot for it. To avoid damaging the roots and minimize stress, the flower is replanted using the transshipment method.
A thick layer of drainage should be laid at the bottom of the pot, then a layer of earthen mixture on which the prepared plant is placed. Fresh substrate is poured around the roots so that the root collar and the soil surface are at the same level.
After transplanting, the hydrangea must be well watered and the soil on top covered with peat mulch. This will prevent moisture from evaporating quickly.
Methods for propagating home hydrangea
At home You can propagate hydrangea in three ways:
- Dividing the bush.
- Seeds.
- By cuttings.
Dividing the bush
This is the simplest method of reproduction, which requires great care and compliance with certain rules:
- the bush is divided during annual transplantation;
- all shoots must have a sufficient number of roots and a growing point;
- The shoots and roots of the divisions are first shortened, and only then they are planted in pots and watered.
Bushes divided and planted in spring will take root well by autumn.
Propagation by seeds
Seeds indoor hydrangea breeds at the end of winter. The soil for sowing should consist of humus, turf and leaf soil (1:1:1). Seeds are sown on the surface of the soil mixture. There is no need to embed them in the soil. The container with the crops is covered with film or glass on top.
Every day, crops should be ventilated and moistened with a sprayer. It is necessary to ensure that the soil is always slightly moist. When the first shoots appear, the film or glass is removed.
As soon as two true leaves appear on the seedlings, they need to be transplanted into a deeper container with the same soil composition. Grown and strengthened seedlings are planted in pots, the diameter of which should be no more than seven centimeters.
Hydrangea cuttings
Experienced gardeners propagate hydrangea by cuttings, as this the most reliable way to reproduce it.
In January-February, cuttings 7-8 cm long are cut from the basal shoots of the plant. Each segment should have up to three internodes. On the upper part of the cutting, the leaves are shortened by a third or half, and from the lower part they are completely removed.
The segments are treated with a root stimulator, planted in a sand and peat substrate, watered and covered with glass jars. This method of keeping them will help prevent the soil from drying out and will maintain optimal air humidity for the development of cuttings.
The container with seedlings should be kept in the brightest place at room temperature 18-20C. After three to four weeks, the cuttings will take root and can be planted in separate pots.
From cuttings rooted in January-February by autumn a bush of 3-4 shoots will grow. If cuttings are carried out in March-April, the result will be a hydrangea with one stem.
Only caring owners who follow all the rules of care and requirements for temperature conditions, soil selection, lighting and watering will be able to observe the luxury of hydrangea flowering. But such care is worth it. After all, this beautiful plant will look fresh and fashionable in any setting and in any interior. It can be used to decorate residential and industrial premises, winter gardens, balconies, terraces and flower beds.
Indoor hydrangea is an elegant, semi-shrub plant. Interestingly, the color scheme of the plant’s inflorescences can be adjusted by monitoring the composition of the soil. Thus, acidic soil can color the inflorescences in a bluish tint, neutral soil will give a beige color, and alkali will color the petals pink.
Varieties have been developed whose inflorescences on one bush are painted in different colors. The most common specimens in home floriculture are those with pink and blue inflorescences. In total, there are currently more than a hundred varieties.
The “Early Blue” variety with blue inflorescences is very popular. Many gardeners grow red hydrangeas of the Prima and Red Sensation varieties.
The varieties “Europe”, “Hamburg”, “Goliath” have pink color of inflorescences.
Features of growing flowers
The houseplant hydrangea does not require painstaking care, despite all its exotic origins. Even an inexperienced, novice gardener can cope with growing this magnificent flower. But it is still necessary to strictly follow the rules of care so that the hydrangea blooms magnificently and for a long time.
First of all, you need to monitor the cyclical development. By ensuring proper wintering of the flower, you can get many buds set by spring.
Indoor hydrangea is a deciduous shrub, and the flower sheds its foliage in the winter. At this time, the flowerpot is moved to a slightly cool place so that the bush can rest. In winter, hydrangeas are watered very sparingly and not fed. The dormant period for indoor hydrangeas lasts 2 months. In spring the flower begins to grow.
Optimal conditions for maintenance
In indoor conditions, the hydrangea flower does not tolerate the sun at all, but at the same time loves bright light. It is optimal to place the flowerpot next to the south window, but in no case on the windowsill itself. If you place the bush in the sun, the plant simply will not bloom.
The lighting intensity cannot be changed throughout the year.
If the daylight hours are reduced even in winter, this can have a bad effect on the development of the flower - the plant will weaken and become sensitive to disease.
To extend daylight hours, hydrangeas should be illuminated in winter.
Hydrangeas love air. Therefore, the room should be regularly ventilated, but at the same time strictly ensure that there is no draft. In summer, the bush can be taken out onto the balcony.
Hydrangea does not like heat, and it will bloom for many years only in a cool room, in which it is not higher than +20. In winter, the flower needs to lower the temperature to +10. Wintering can even be on a glazed loggia.
If wintering on a loggia, the shoots of the flower should be shortened by 2/3. Cover the plant with spruce branches or special material. Even if the shoots of a flower freeze a little in winter, it will recover very quickly in the spring.
If the hydrangea is comfortable, its foliage will be a lush green color. If the plant begins to shed its leaves, it means the room is too hot.
In addition to coolness, large-leaved hydrangea loves high humidity. It is advisable to spray the air around the flowerpot every day.
Home care
In summer, the flower should be watered frequently and abundantly. In spring and autumn, watering should be very moderate. In winter, watering is sharply reduced, making sure that the earthen lump in the flowerpot does not dry out completely. Well-settled water for irrigation is used. Many gardeners water hydrangeas only with melt water.
In spring and summer, fertilizers are applied every two weeks along with watering. For lush flowering, hydrangeas are suitable for mineral fertilizers for indoor flowers.
Pruning plays a very important role when growing a flower. If the shoots are long and weakened, then they should definitely be shortened. Pruning helps to form a beautiful crown of the bush. Pruning is carried out twice a year.
In the fall, they form a base that will serve as a frame for young shoots. Strong branches are shortened by half, and all thin branches are completely removed. In spring, only weakened branches are removed.
Propagation of home hydrangea
The easiest way to propagate hydrangea is to divide the bush. When replanting is necessary, the bush is divided with a sharp tool into several sections so that each section has shoots and developed roots. First, the divisions should be transplanted into small flowerpots, and when the bush grows, transplant it into a spacious pot.
A more labor-intensive method of propagation is seed.
It is used mainly by breeders. Hydrangea is propagated by seeds at the end of winter, sowing them in pre-prepared containers with a suitable soil mixture. Crops must be ventilated and moistened. When a couple of leaves appear on the sprouts, they are planted in small separate pots. The diameter of the flowerpots should be about 6-7 cm.
Experienced gardeners propagate flowers by cuttings. They do this in February or even January.
Root shoots are taken for cuttings. The length of each branch should be about 7-8 cm. On the lower part of the branch, the leaves are removed, and the upper leaves are shortened by 1/3.
The cuttings are planted in peat soil. The containers are covered with film and placed in a warm and bright place. By autumn, small bushes will develop from the cuttings. Flowering of young plants will begin the next season. Hydrangeas grown from cuttings should be cared for in the same way as adult specimens.
Protection from diseases and pests
Diseases and insects can cause significant harm to the flower. For example, if you water it very often and too much, this will inevitably lead to root rot. In this case, Bordeaux mixture should be used to treat the bush.
High temperatures can cause powdery mildew to develop. Due to the disease, the leaves of the hydrangea dry out and the flower can quickly die. Copper-based drugs are used to treat the disease.
Dryness also leads to the appearance of spider mites on the bushes. This pest feeds on the sap of leaves and stems and weaves a fine web. If a plant is attacked by insect pests, it must be treated with Actellik.
The main problems when growing in a pot
Most often, when growing, we encounter drying of the foliage of hydrangeas. The main reason is dryness. This flower does not tolerate dry air and low humidity at all.
If possible, the flowerpot should be placed next to the aquarium or containers of water should be placed in the room. It is advisable to spray the air to artificially increase humidity.
If the soil is constantly dry, the leaves of the flower will also begin to dry out. It is enough to adjust the watering regime. And the problem will disappear.
If the leaves of the flower begin to turn a little yellow, then most likely the soil in the pot is not acidic enough. You can correct the situation by watering the plant with lemon water, diluting 5 drops of lemon juice in a liter of water.
Many lovers of flowering plants try to decorate with them not only their summer cottages, but also their homes. Indoor hydrangea is a wonderful option to fill your home with the pleasant aroma of lush flowers. It appeared on the windows of European houses back in the 18th century and remains a fairly popular plant to this day. Thanks to the many different varieties bred by breeders, the flower never ceases to delight its loyal fans.
The indoor hydrangea shown in the photo has won the hearts of lovers of ornamental plants. Its lush inflorescences, strewn with small delicate buds, amaze with their splendor. A flower like this is almost impossible to find in nature. What is the secret of the attractiveness of this majestic plant? How to grow it at home? What does caring for indoor hydrangea include? The answers to these questions may encourage someone to have such a lush beauty on their window.
The secret of the attractiveness of the majestic flower
The common garden hydrangea is a perennial, lushly flowering shrub. Its main feature is the inflorescences in the form of caps filled with small buds. Depending on the type of soil on which indoor hydrangea is grown, it comes in different colors. These colors can be:
If you plant the plant in alkaline soil, the buds will be pink or lilac. Acidic soil will produce a blue tint. For a snow-white color, neutral soil is suitable. Based on this, it is not at all difficult to choose a suitable option for your home interior.
Some people believe that hydrangea is a purely garden plant, which is only available in an outdoor flower bed. In fact, for quite a long time lovers of stately bouquets have been growing it at home on the windowsill. The only difference is the size of the buds. 
In this photo of an indoor hydrangea flower you can see its lush caps in all their splendor.
It is known that the buds of a houseplant are slightly smaller than its garden relative. But if you try hard and apply all the rules for caring for a flower, you can achieve good results.
There are many varieties of wonderful indoor plants - hydrangeas, which are grown on the windowsills of apartments and country houses. The most popular ones are blue, pink and red. These include:
Interestingly, each of the varieties listed has its own external characteristics, which are important to consider when caring for it.
Basic rules of care
As practice shows, caring for indoor hydrangea at home requires several important rules:
- conditions of detention;
- proper watering;
- regular feeding;
- winter care.
In order for a flower to successfully develop on a home windowsill, it is necessary to create suitable conditions. An important aspect is. Hydrangea does not like to be exposed to direct sunlight. Therefore, it is better to place a flower pot away from a south-facing window. Otherwise, the light will damage the decorative appearance of the leaf plates and disrupt the flowering period. It is important to consider that indoor hydrangea prefers the same type of lighting all year round. In view of this, in winter it is necessary to turn on fluorescent lamps for the successful development of the plant.
To ensure comfortable conditions, the flower is placed 2 or 3 meters from the south window, where there is always direct sunlight.
In addition, a regular supply of fresh air is important for the plant. Therefore, the room where the flower grows is periodically ventilated. In summer, flowerpots are placed on balconies, terraces or shady areas of the garden. Despite the fact that indoor hydrangea is dormant in winter, it still needs care. This includes regular watering of the plant. 
If you can see that the earthen ball is drying out, it should be watered.
You can store dormant hydrangeas in the winter in a living room or on the balcony. But don’t forget to cover it to protect it from the cold.
Since the majestic flower loves moisture very much, during the period of active growth it needs a sufficient amount of liquid. In this case, you should adhere to this rule - the root area should always be moist. And the upper part must be dry before watering. As a result, the plant will not rot. For example, indoor Jasmine hydrangea prefers moderate watering. If there is overflow, there is a chance of rotting of the root system. When the soil dries out, there is a loss of buds and foliage. It is advisable to moisten the plant with warm, settled liquid with the addition of a few drops of lemon.
An important condition when caring for hydrangea is feeding. It is held mainly in the summer. To do this, prepare a solution of mineral fertilizers, which includes 30 grams of potassium sulfate and ammonium nitrate with the addition of 40 grams of superphosphate. These ingredients are dissolved in 10 liters of water and the plant is watered twice for 7 days. The feeding process continues until mid-August. During this period, hydrangea stops actively growing and switches to the formation of flower buds.
It is during this period that it is necessary to remove weak root shoots from the plant so that it gains strength.
Methods for propagating indoor flowers
When a flower wins the attention and love of its fans, it gradually grows in their homes. Indoor hydrangea is propagated in three ways: by seeds, by dividing the bush and by cuttings.
To grow hydrangea at home using seeds, at the end of winter the planting material is sown in containers with soil. There is no need to cover it with earth, but it is advisable to cover it with cellophane. The crops are moistened and ventilated daily until the first shoots appear. Then the film should be removed. When the seedlings have two strong leaves, they are planted in separate pots, where they will fully develop.
One of the simplest methods of propagating a flower is dividing the bush. During the spring transplantation of hydrangea, the bush is divided into several parts. Each individual shoot must have enough roots and a growing point.
Before planting the bushes in pots, the shoots are shortened a little so that the plant takes root well. With the onset of autumn, hydrangea will turn into a full-fledged indoor flower.
Some flower lovers propagate hydrangea using cuttings. At the end of January, cuttings with three internodes are cut from the basal stems. After treating them with a root stimulator, they are planted in the prepared substrate. After a month, the cuttings sprout roots, which indicates their readiness for independent life. The plants are transplanted into separate pots, where they will thrive.
Caring fans of indoor hydrangea try to adhere to the basic rules for caring for and growing this plant. That’s why such a sweet beauty with a magnificent bouquet of flowers lives in their houses.
| 1. Hydrangea in winter in open ground: in the winter months, in the conditions of the Middle Zone, plants will need additional shelter, which should provide not only protection from freezing, but also from the plants getting wet. |
| 2. How to trim: the flower needs both formative and sanitary cutting. Pruning features will be different for different varieties and types of shrubs. |
| 3. When it blooms: Different varieties bloom at different times, but generally in the garden, flowering occurs in May and can last until autumn. |
| 4. Transfer: adult bushes older than 5 years are best left in the same place, and young specimens are best replanted immediately after complete flowering. |
| 5. The soil: nutritious and loose soil with a neutral or acidic pH. Large-leaved hydrangea is capable of changing the color of the inflorescence in accordance with the pH of the soil. |
| 6. Top dressing: in the warm months, regular fertilizing with mineral fertilizers for flowering plants. In winter, fertilization is stopped and resumed only with the beginning of new growth in the spring. |
| 7. Hydrangea propagation: vegetatively - rooting cuttings in spring and summer, dividing adult plants during spring transplantation, air layering, generatively - sowing seeds in spring. |
Botanical name: Hydrangea.
Family. Hydrangeaceae.
Homeland of the plant. Asia, America.
2.Description
The genus Hydrangea or hydrangea includes about 80 species of perennial plants, some of them are deciduous, others are evergreen bushes or low trees with large, showy inflorescences and attractive foliage.
Inflorescences- corymbs or panicles with a diameter of 13 to 20 cm, consist of many flowers. Their color changes depending on the reaction of the soil.
Large-leaved hydrangeas grown in acidic soil with a pH less than 5.5 bear blue flowers at the tops of their stems; in neutral or alkaline soil with a pH above 5.5 - pink. Varieties with white flowers do not depend on soil reaction.
Separate flowers 2.5 - 4 cm in diameter, with 4 petals.
Plants have a short, woody stem with 4-8 branches, on which oval, pointed, shiny are located oppositely leaves up to 15 cm long.
2.1.Hydrangea height
In indoor culture, Gort enzii grow slowly and rarely exceed in height 30 - 60 cm. In the garden they easily reach 1 m or more.
There are species whose shoots grow up to 30 meters and are more like a vine.
Tree hydrangeas in open ground reach 3 meters in height.
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3.When it blooms
May June. The flowering period in open ground and when growing hydrangea at home is very long - it takes 5 - 6 months and may be interrupted outside by the onset of frost. With proper care, hydrangeas bloom very profusely.
4.Hydrangea - planting and care
4.1.Planting in the garden
Flowers are planted in open ground in mid-spring or autumn in such a way that the bushes can take root well before the onset of frost.
It's worth landing in cloudy weather or in the evening. If, after transplantation, the plants are exposed to the scorching rays of the sun during the day, they will experience additional stress.
For planting, select a piece of land that is well lit by morning and evening sunlight and protected from strong winds. Hydrangea should not be planted in flooded areas and in places where groundwater is located close to the surface of the earth.
For planting in open ground, select strong, aged plants 2 - 4 years without visible signs of disease or the presence of harmful insects.
The planting site is dug up and weeds are removed.
Depending on the planting scheme, prepare planting holes. When grown together, a distance of about 1 m is maintained between the holes.
Additionally, in the ground in which the hydrangea will be planted, apply mineral fertilizers for flowering plants and slightly acidify the soil by adding peat. If the soil is too heavy or clayey, then river sand is added to it.
The depth and diameter of the holes should be 2 times superior root system dimensions flowers - on average their size will be 50 - 60 cm. A small nutrient layer in the form of humus or well-rotted cow or horse manure is placed at the bottom of the hole and prepared soil is poured on top in the form of a mound.
The seedlings are removed from the pots, thoroughly shaken off the old substrate and the roots are straightened.
The root system before planting can be shorten by 2 - 3 cm. with a sterile pruning shears, and sprinkle the cut areas with charcoal powder. The bushes are placed in the center of the mound with their roots straightened, watered thoroughly and sprinkled with soil.
After planting, the soil around the flower is well compacted to remove air pockets and carry out another thorough watering.
When planting, plants should be placed at the same depth, where they were in pots. To prevent too rapid evaporation of moisture, as well as to inhibit the growth of weeds, the surface of the ground under the hydrangea bushes is mulch- cover with a layer of mulch from cut grass, straw or burnt sawdust about 5 cm.
4.2.Caring for plants planted in open ground
In the first month after planting, the hydrangea costs water thoroughly and promptly, keeping the soil evenly moist. Over time, the bushes will be able to tolerate short-term drought.
During the period of active growth and budding, watering should be regular and abundant. Hydrangea is watered in the evening using softened water, such as rainwater. Water for irrigation should be warm.
For abundant and long flowering, plants should be helped by applying mineral fertilizers. Fertilizing when growing in open ground is carried out 2 times per season- in spring or early summer for healthy growth and abundant formation of inflorescences and after flowering - to prepare plants for wintering.
For spring feeding, fertilizers with a high content are used. nitrogen, and at the end of summer or autumn they are fed with complex liquid fertilizers for flowering plants.
To control the size and maintain the beautiful shape of the bush, pruning is carried out from time to time with a sharp, sterilized pruning shears. Since fading inflorescences do not serve as decoration for the plant at all, they should be removed in a timely manner. pinch.
The ground surface under the bush periodically carefully loosen so that oxygen reaches the root system.
4.3.Wintering of hydrangea
With the onset of cloudy and rainy weather, the inflorescences on the bushes take on water and become heavy - this will threaten the plants with broken shoots - trim the flowers without regret.
With the onset of the first frost, the roots of the shrubs are additionally spud up, sprinkling with a layer of earth thick 5 - 7 cm. and sprinkle with another layer of mulch.
Most varieties of hydrangea do not tolerate very strong and prolonged frosts, so they should spend the winter under cover. The most frost-resistant There will be panicle, tree and ground cover hydrangeas.
If winters are mild and a thick layer of snow falls in the growing region, then even relatively heat-loving plants can do without shelter.
At wintering in Middle lane It is better to prepare shrubs thoroughly for the onset of frost and begin this preparation in the fall - when the first frosts occur at night. The bushes are mulched and covered with non-woven material.
To prevent the plants from getting wet from the melting snow on top, they are covered with additional cardboard boxes and another layer of non-woven material.
They begin to open the flowers as soon as the snow melts on the site - they remove the cardboard boxes and film, leaving only the non-woven material. The last shelter is removed when spring frosts have passed.
You can also use another method of shelter - branches of bushes contact in a vertically located bunch, and installed around the bush plastic mesh cylinder or a small piece of mesh - chain-link. The cylinder should be taller than the bunch of hydrangea shoots.
After installation, the entire volume of the cylinder is filled with dry fallen leaves.
Plants can be suffocated under plastic sheeting during the winter months.
5.Adjusting the shades of inflorescences
It's no secret that flower coloring in large-leaved hydrangea depends not only on varietal characteristics, but also on maintenance conditions - in particular from soil pH, in which the bush is grown.
Experienced gardeners can regulate the color of flowers using substances such as aluminum sulfate- its use acidifies the soil and gives blue and blue shades. Also, finely chopped pine needles and high acidic peat are added to the soil for planting as acidifiers.
To obtain pink and red flowers, the substrate should be brought to a slightly alkaline pH by adding lime milk, crushed chalk, dolomite flour. Remember that a pH that is too alkaline will have a negative effect on your plants.
In a neutral environment, hydrangea flowers will be painted in white and cream shades.
6. Propagation of hydrangea
Growing hydrangea is possible even for novice gardeners and usually does not cause difficulties, but it requires compliance with certain agricultural techniques.
6.1.Cuttings of hydrangeas
Propagation of hydrangea cuttings 10 - 15 cm long. in June or July, rooting them in water. Select for cuttings non-flowering shoots located in the middle of the bush.
- Each cutting should have at least 2 pairs of leaves and an apical bud; remove the lower pair of leaves.
- The upper leaf blades can be shortened by half the length to reduce moisture loss.
- Separate the cutting from the mother plant with a sharp pruner so that the lower cut is oblique, a couple of centimeters below the leaf node, and the upper one runs at a right angle.
- Dip the lower end of the cutting into the rooting preparation.
- At 1 - 2 cm, the base of the cuttings is immersed in water to which an activated carbon tablet has been added.
- After roots appear, reaching 1 - 2 cm, the cuttings can be planted in the ground.
For some time, the plants will not show signs of growth - at this moment their root system gets used to its new living conditions.
- You can also use a nutritious and loose substrate for rooting, which is filled with a container.
- The cuttings are buried 3-4 cm into the soil and thoroughly moistened with a spray bottle.
- Cover the plantings with a plastic cap or bag to maintain humidity levels. When covering with plastic film, make sure that it does not come into direct contact with the surface of the leaves.
- After 3 weeks, remove the cover and water the plants regularly.
- The appearance of young leaves will signal the successful rooting of the cuttings.
- Sowing of seeds is carried out in the autumn months using a plastic container.
- Holes are made at the bottom of the container and a small drainage layer of fine expanded clay is placed and sprinkled with light nutritious soil consisting of peat, turf and leaf soil with coarse river sand to improve drainage.
- Before sowing, the substrate is thoroughly moistened using a fine spray bottle.
- Planting material is laid out on the surface of the ground and covered on top with a small layer of soil thickness of 5 to 10 mm.
- Instead of topsoil, you can use river sand.
- To maintain air humidity levels at a high level, the crops are covered from above with glass, transparent plastic film or a plastic cap.
- Every day the shelter is removed for a few minutes, the condensation that has appeared during the day is removed from it and the crops are ventilated.
- From time to time, the soil is additionally moistened with a spray bottle.
- Seedlings are placed in a cool place with a temperature of 14 to 20 degrees Celsius.
- The location should be well lit, but not exposed to direct sunlight.
- Gradually, the time and frequency of airing the seedlings is increased, and with the appearance of the first signs of growth, the shelter is removed completely.
As soon as the cotyledon leaves are well formed and unfolded, the young plants dive- seated in separate small cups filled with nutritious substrate.
A week later after picking, the flowers can be feed for the first time, using a very weak solution of fertilizer with a high nitrogen content.
Second dive done already when each bush has the first 2 - 3 leaf blades - the plants are very carefully, trying to minimally disturb the root system, transferred to small pots with a diameter of 7 - 9 cm.
After the second dive, 10 - 14 days later, fertilizing is also carried out.
To ensure that the bushes remain strong and dense, and do not stretch out or become weak, they are necessary throughout the months. highlight using fluorescent lamps or special phytolamps.
With the onset of warm days in spring and summer hydrangea is hardened- take it out into the fresh air for several hours during the day. gradually the hardening time is increased and soon the flowers are left outside and at night.
Young plants are taken indoors in the fall, before night temperatures drop to negative values.
The easiest way to reproduce is bush division.
In house plants this procedure is carried out during transplantation, in spring. Shrubs grown in open ground can be divided spring or autumn.
- An adult plant is dug up and divided with a sharp knife so that each division receives its own renewal point, root system and above-ground green part.
- The separated plants are treated with charcoal powder for drying and disinfection, or the wound surface is sprinkled with wood ash.
- The resulting bushes are planted in separate pots.
Hydrangea also reproduces successfully air layering- side shoots that are bent and pinned to the surface of the soil.
Such layerings are sprinkled with a small layer of soil on top, which is kept constantly moist. The tip of the layer is about 15 - 20 cm. there should be above the surface of the earth.
Within a few weeks, it will be possible to observe new shoots emerging from the ground - this indicates that new roots have appeared in the leaf nodes.
The advantage of this method is that from each layer you can get several plants at once that retain varietal characteristics, and the mother bush will not suffer at all.
After the appearance of new shoots, you should not immediately separate the cuttings from the mother bush - only separate it completely six months after instillation.
7.1.Transplant
The plant is replanted in January or February. The best time to transplant is the beginning of new growth- when the buds swell and new leaves appear, but there are no inflorescences yet.
Young bushes as they grow replanted annually, each time increasing the diameter of the pot by 2 - 4 cm. Mature plants will need replanting every 2 - 3 years to change the substrate to a fresh soil mixture.
Flowering bushes should not be replanted.
- Selected for cultivation cramped pots with large drainage holes.
- Drainage in the form of expanded clay or broken brick is laid at the bottom of the pots.
- The drainage layer is sprinkled with a small layer of nutrient soil.
- The bushes are transferred or transplanted into a new pot, sprinkled with fresh soil and compacted well.
- After transplanting the plant, carefully watered a large amount of warm water, and excess moisture is drained from the pan a few minutes after watering.
- Transplanted hydrangeas are placed in a well-lit place, but sheltered from direct sunlight.
3 - 4 weeks after transplanting the plant, you can feed for the first time weak fertilizer solution. It is not worthwhile to fertilize immediately after replanting - fresh soil already contains enough nutrients, and the root system disturbed by replanting can get burned from the use of fertilizers.
7.2.Growing at home, how to prune hydrangea
How to care for hydrangea in a pot? Despite the fact that hydrangea is not a houseplant in the truest sense of the word, keeping it indoors is not as difficult as it might seem. Caring for hydrangea at home does not require a lot of time and labor.
Since varietal hydrangea bushes often form too large inflorescences that can break thin branches, the bushes provide support.
Stems too long after flowering cut to 1/3 length. To make the plant look denser, young shoots pinching just above the first pair of leaves.
During the first 3 - 4 years of life, the shrub don't touch, allowing it to develop on its own. After the plants reach 4 - 5 years of age, are beginning to form, and the timing of pruning here will depend on the variety of hydrangea.
If buds form on the shoots of the current year(in tree and paniculate hydrangeas), then pruning is carried out immediately after wintering- correct the shape of the bush, and at the same time remove all weak and diseased shoots, as well as branches that thicken the plants.
If flowers appear on the branches of the second year(large-leaved, oak-leaved, petiolate and prickly varieties), then to give the bush shape they are pruned immediately after flowering, and sanitary pruning is also carried out with the appearance of the first signs of growth in the spring.
Each type of hydrangea may respond differently to pruning. For some varieties, pruning helps to form a large number of side shoots and over time their flowering will become very abundant, while for others it is worth pruning rather lightly.
Treats him well tree hydrangea for a radical pruning- its stems can be safely shortened by cutting off most of the length.
Paniculata hydrangea is wary of pruning and should be adjusted by simply removing a third of the length of the longest branches.
When growing large leaf hydrangea Only stems that thicken the crown should be trimmed. in the absence of pruning, not only the shape of the bush and its health suffers, but it will also affect flowering.
Unpruned bushes will form a large number of inflorescences, but they will be small - the plant simply does not have enough strength to form large clusters of flowers.
Pruning helps rejuvenate old bushes- this procedure is carried out every 2 - 3 years, cutting off the oldest stems at the base, and once every five years you can cut off almost all the green mass to the base, leaving 15 - 20 cm of growth.
7.3.Fertilizers
During the period of active growth, fertilizing of home hydrangea is carried out 2 times a month. For plants grown in acidic soil, feed fertilizers for heather plants or azaleas.
Don't overdo it organic- in response to the addition of humus or manure, hydrangea can abundantly increase green mass, but flowering will become scarce or not occur at all.
Bushes in autumn and winter don't feed- provide them with a period of rest in cool and dry conditions.
Fertilizing is worth doing after thorough watering- this way the root system will not get burned from using an overly concentrated fertilizer solution.
Transplanted specimens and diseased plants should not be fed.
When grown in open ground, a mixture consisting of ammonium nitrate, superphosphate and potassium sulfate can be used as a mineral fertilizer.
7.4.Soil
Well drained, nutritious and loose, a mixture of heather soil, peat and coarse sand is suitable to improve drainage.
In general, potted hydrangeas prefer a neutral to slightly acidic pH. about 5.5. When grown in an alkaline substrate, plants will appear sickly.
The shade of flowers of the large-leaved variety depends on the pH of the soil. For other hydrangeas, the color of which does not depend on the pH of the soil, you can use a mixture of humus, peat and sand.
7.5.Water hydrangea
During growth and flowering it is necessary abundant and regular watering. The soil should always remain moist.
If hydrangea is grown in an acidic substrate, use it for watering soft water. From time to time, you can add a few crystals of citric acid or drops of lemon juice to the water for irrigation.
From late autumn, the frequency of watering is reduced.
Used for irrigation softened water at room temperature- for example, bottled, rain, melt.
To reduce hardness, you can add regular baking soda to tap water - a teaspoon per 2 liters of water.
7.6.Conditions - temperature
The flowering period of hydrangea will extend up to 2 months when kept cool - with temperature below 16°C. However, it is quite difficult to maintain such a temperature indoors.
At a temperature about 20°C hydrangea will bloom 3 - 4 weeks maximum.
In winter, during the dormant period, keep the plant at a temperature from 4 to 7° C, while providing very good air movement and gradually increase the content temperature as new growth emerges.
7.7.Lighting
Hydrangea needs a well-lit place without the scorching rays of the sun. When kept outdoors in summer and spring, the plant is placed in partial shade.
Bushes in spring and summer shade during the daytime, but in the morning and evening they allow plants to enjoy the bright rays of the sun.
Direct rays hitting the leaves during the day will not cause burns, but will cause the color of the flowers to fade - they will simply burn out.
When grown in partial shade, the plants will become elongated and bloom less profusely.
In autumn and winter for the flower you can choose the most illuminated place- after all, at this time the activity of the sun wanes and it often remains behind the clouds.
The most suitable for keeping hydrangeas at home are windows facing southeast or southwest. When growing from the south side the flower should be slightly recessed deep into the room or shaded with a light tulle curtain, and when kept on northern window sills the plant must be provided artificial lighting.
Oakleaf and paniculate hydrangeas tolerate direct sunlight or partial shade well.
7.8.Spraying
It tolerates dry air in living spaces quite calmly and will only need spraying on the hottest spring and summer days.
For spraying use only warm and well-settled water. When spraying, cover the inflorescences with your hand, since drops of moisture on them can spoil the appearance of the flowers.
To increase air humidity you can use room humidifier or any with vessel of water, left near the bush.
Hydrangea prefers to be in well-ventilated areas with good air circulation, however, it is worth protecting plants from exposure to cold drafts.
8. Diseases and pests
In general, hydrangea is very resistant to both diseases and pest attacks, but problems can arise if not properly cared for.
- Flowers and leaves dry up when there is a lack of water. Immerse potted plants in water for 3 minutes and allow the water to drain.
- With a lack of light leaves turn yellow.
- Due to watering with too hard water, it can develop chlorosis.
- Plant stops growth with a lack of nutrients.
From pests nematodes, spider mites, aphids, weevils, snails and slugs appear.
Insects - pests
| Insect name | Signs of infection | Control measures |
| The leaf blades turn yellow in places located between the veins, then turn brown and black. Eventually the leaves fall off the plants. When the root system is damaged, the plant becomes weak and withers before our eyes for no apparent reason. | Traditional methods: destruction of infected parts of plants, abundant watering with hot water at a temperature of about 70°C, hot bath - immersing the pot in a large container of water at a temperature of 55°C for 20 minutes. Chemicals: anthelmintics. | |
| Inconspicuous cobwebs on the leaves, yellowing and falling leaves with extensive damage. The surface of the leaf plates becomes dead and covered with small cracks. Plant development slows down. | Folk methods. Plants can be washed in the shower and left in the bathroom in a humid atmosphere for half an hour. Irradiation with an ultraviolet lamp every week for 2 minutes. Chemical preparations based on pyrethrum, sulfur powders, Fitoverm, Actellik. | |
| Sticky droplets appear on the leaf blades, the leaf blades curl and become deformed, tender buds and young leaves wither. Colonies of insects can be seen on the tips of shoots, buds or the underside of leaf blades. The flowers of plants affected by aphids may become deformed. | Folk methods: nettle infusion, decoction of rhubarb leaves, wormwood, soap solution, infusion of tobacco and dandelion, onion, marigold, yarrow, tansy, dusting with virgin ash. Chemicals: Sulfur powders, treatment of green mass with green potassium soap without getting into the ground, Decis, Actellik, Fitoverm. | |
| Small denticles appear along the edges of the leaf plates, leaves and shoots of plants lose turgor | Traditional methods: transplantation with complete replacement of the substrate. The surface of the soil can be covered with plastic film for several days to prevent adult insects from entering there to lay eggs. Adult insects are easy to collect by hand at night. Spraying with a decoction of hot pepper. Chemicals: Bona Forte; Fitoverm; Aktellik; Fufanon-Nova; Aktara; Kinmiks. | |
| Snails, slugs | Through holes on leaf blades, traces of mucus on the surface of leaves. | Traditional methods: manual collection of harmful insects, dusting plant leaves with mustard and hot pepper, wood ash mixed with baking soda, tobacco dust. Chemicals: superphosphate granules, copper preparations, Thunderstorm, Slug Eater, Anti-slug, Meta. |
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9.Purpose
Hydrangea will not go unnoticed either indoors or in the garden.
Flowers of plants can be used for cutting - cut shoots do not lose their attractiveness for a long time in a vase with water. Nowadays, florists often use hydrangea to make bouquets.
The attractive appearance of the plant allows it to be widely used in landscape design when grown in open ground, in the garden.
The intoxicating aroma of flowers allows plants to attract many insects to the garden - hydrangea is an excellent honey plant.
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10.Note
Potted hydrangeas can live 3 - 4 years in the house. The main difficulty in keeping it is to provide the plant with a cool dormant period with constant ventilation.
All parts of the plant are very poisonous. Keep it away from children and pets.
11.Hydroponics
When grown hydroponically, the root system may rot.
12. Varieties and types of hydrangeas:
12.1. Hydrangea paniculata, paniculata or cone-shaped - Hydrangea paniculata
Paniculate hydrangeas are low, lush garden shrubs of a round shape, up to 1.8 - 3 m high, with abundantly branching stems. During the flowering period, long, flexible, woody stems at the base bend low to the ground under the weight of large, heavy inflorescences. This plant comes from Asian regions and from the island of Sakhalin, and is considered one of the most cold-resistant types of hydrangea. The plant has oval, dark green leaves with an extensive network of leaf veins on the surface of the plates and a finely toothed edge. Flower clusters are formed in the warm season at the tops of shoots and reach a length of 25 - 30 cm, consisting of many small, colorful flowers with four rounded petals. Flower colors include white, green, pink, yellowish, red, lilac, and burgundy. Flowering occurs on the current year's shoots, so the compact shape of the plant can be easily maintained by pruning. The plant got its name from the characteristic shape of the flower clusters. Due to its spectacular appearance and fairly high resistance to frost, this variety has found wide use in landscape design.
12.2. Hydrangea paniculata Vanille Fraise
Large-flowered paniculate hydrangea with very abundant and long-lasting flowering, which begins in mid-summer and continues until mid-autumn. The flower panicles have a cream or white tint, but every day the flower petals become more and more pink - as a result, young clusters are painted in light colors, and fading ones are painted in a rich pink color.
12.3. Hydrangea paniculata Phantom
Large shrubs with a rounded crown, which can reach a height of 2.5 m. The shoots branch abundantly at the base and become covered with dark bark with age. The apical racemose inflorescences reach a length of 30 cm. A distinctive feature of the variety is that the buds and just-opened flowers have a greenish color; as the petals open, the flowers become white, and before withering they acquire a delicate pink tint. Flowering is long, begins in July and can last until the first frost.
12.4. Hydrangea paniculata Limelight
Spreading deciduous shrubs 2 - 2.5 m high. They develop quickly and form a lush, rounded crown consisting of abundantly branching shoots. The plant originates from China and Japan and has dark green, oval leaves. During the flowering period, the plant decorates itself with apical flower panicles up to 30 cm long and up to 24 cm in diameter. The first flowers open in July, flowering continues in August and ends in September. Only the blooming flowers are painted in a delicate greenish tint; as the flowers fade, the clusters become white or sometimes pink.
12.5. Hydrangea paniculata Tardiva
Large deciduous shrubs, reaching a height of 2.5 - 3.5 m. The plants have erect, rapidly growing stems, abundantly branched at the base. The leaves are dark green, oval, with branched veins and a finely toothed edge. The variety is distinguished by apical pyramidal, pointed flower panicles up to 25 cm long. The flowers are spectacular, quite large, white, as they bloom they become purple-pink, and have a charming aroma. Flower brushes are quite heavy, which is why the stems often bend toward the ground.
12.6.Tree hydrangea - Hydrangea arborescens
The plant originates from the eastern United States of America. The shrubs have thin, flexible, abundantly branched stems 90 - 150 cm high. The leaves are opposite, round or slightly oval, with small teeth along the edge, dark green in color, 12 - 18 cm long. The lower surface of the leaf blades often has a lighter shade. During the autumn months, the leaves turn yellow and fall off. The inflorescences are round, up to 30 cm in diameter, consisting of small, white, lilac, greenish, pink flowers.
12.7. Tree hydrangea "Annabelle" - Hydrangea arborescens Annabelle
Tree-like hydrangea up to 150 cm high. The variety has good frost resistance. The leaves are green, broadly lanceolate. Small greenish flowers are collected in rounded inflorescences at the tops of shoots, reaching a diameter of 30 cm; as they bloom, they acquire a white tint. Varietal plants bloom annually, even after heavy pruning, with the help of which the compact shape of the plant is easily maintained.
12.8. Hydrangea arborescens Hayes Starburst
Compact, deciduous shrubs, the height of which is only 60 - 120 cm. The flowering period is very long - it can occupy the entire summer months and lasts until mid-October. The plant forms apical semicircular or rounded inflorescences with a diameter of up to 25 cm. Young, just opening buds have a greenish tint, but as they mature they turn into double white flowers. The flowers have many pointed petals. During the flowering period, shrubs often bend their branches close to the ground under the weight of the flowers. The leaves are oblong, lanceolate, with an extensive network of veins and small teeth along the edges of the leaf blades.
12.9. Large-leaved hydrangea, macrophylla or changeable - Hydrangea macrophylla
A spectacular flowering shrub, reaching a height of 100 - 180 cm. The stems are abundantly branched at the base and form a dense, rounded crown. The leaves are jagged, ovoid, oval, dark green, 10 - 20 cm long. The leaf veins form an abundant branched network, slightly recessed into the leaf blades. In the summer months, umbrella-shaped or rounded inflorescences with fairly large, brightly colored flowers form at the tops of shoots. Hydrangea macrophylla can change the color of its flowers depending on the pH of the soil. Acidic pH causes the plant to produce flowers in shades of blue and purple; in alkaline soil the pink shade will be predominant. When pruning, it is worth taking into account the fact that some shrubs bloom on shoots of shoots of previous growth - such plants are pruned immediately after flowering.
10.12.Petiolated hydrangea - Hydrangea petiolaris
An interesting feature of these decorative bush hydrangeas is that young specimens grow quite slowly and form shrubs; with age, the growth rate increases, and the shoots become long, vine-like, reaching a length of 9 m. The plant has long roots that help it cling to any support . Lignified stems covered with light peeling bark. Inflorescences - umbrellas reach a diameter of 15 cm, consist of small white flowers with four round petals. The leaves are emerald green, heart-shaped, with a finely toothed edge, reaching a length of 10 cm. In autumn, the leaves acquire a golden yellow hue and fall off. During the flowering period, the plants emit a very pleasant aroma.
12.11.Oakleaf hydrangea - Hydrangea quercifolia
Flowering deciduous shrubs native to the southeastern United States. The plant is tall, reaching 2 - 2.5 m in height. The leaves are bright green, round, palmately cut, reminiscent of maple leaves. Flowering is early - can occur as early as May and lasts for several months. During the flowering period, large inflorescences are formed at the tops of the shoots - cylindrical panicles, consisting of small flowers. An interesting feature is that just opening flowers have a greenish tint, fully opened ones become white, and before wilting the flowers acquire a pink or even reddish tint. During the fall months, the leaves turn burgundy or red and fall off. There are double varieties of oakleaf hydrangea.
12.12.Serrata hydrangea - Hydrangea serrata
Medium-sized spreading bushes with abundantly branched stems at the base, covered with brown bark. The leaves are simple, broadly lanceolate, located on short petioles. The inflorescences are large, apical, and consist of 20 - 50 white flowers.
12.13.Hydrangea "Bretschneideri" - Hydrangea bretschneideri
Large-leaved, flowering shrubs native to Japan and Korea. The plant has a compact size and can reach 60 - 120 cm in height. In appearance, the shrubs resemble large-leaved hydrangea, but have more modest dimensions. The leaves are up to 12 cm long, bright green, oblong-lanceolate, with small teeth along the edge. Leaf veins are often highlighted in a lighter shade. The flowers are collected in apical umbrella-shaped inflorescences, the shades of the petals depend on the pH of the soil - in acidic soil, plants form blue or purple flowers, and in alkaline soil - pink. When pruning, it is worth remembering that the inflorescence appears on the shoots of the previous season.
12.14.Ground cover hydrangea - Hydrangea heteromalla
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Hydrangea, which blooms with luxurious bright inflorescences, can grow both in the garden and indoors. Caring for and growing home varieties, of course, differs from cultivating hydrangea in the garden. Our publication will tell you in detail about the rules for keeping hydrangeas indoors.
Beauty who loves water
The Latin name for hydrangea, hydrangea, literally translates as “water vessel.” This name was not given to this plant in vain: hydrangea loves water very much and does not tolerate drought at all.
Hydrangea is a deciduous plant that sheds its leaves in the winter and goes into retirement.
Main characteristics of hydrangea:
- there are about 80 species and a large number of varieties of hydrangea;
- types of hydrangeas are divided into liana-like, tree-like and shrubby;
- some species are frost-resistant;
- garden hydrangeas grow up to three meters in height, and liana-shaped ones even up to thirty;
- Hydrangeas live for about 20 years.
When grown at home, large-leaved hydrangea is used, which breeders use to create new hybrids and varieties of this spectacular plant.
Indoor hydrangeas can reach a size of up to 1.5 meters. New varieties for indoor cultivation usually have a height of 50 to 100 cm.
- Hydrangea leaves are jagged, ovoid with a sharp tip, 10–15 cm in length. They turn red in autumn and fall off by winter;
- inflorescences up to 35 cm in diameter, consisting of large sepals, which can be plain, of different colors or change as they develop and depending on the acidity of the soil;
- inside the sepals there are small petals;
- flowers can be sterile or fertile. The seeds are very small;
- the shape of flowers can be of four types: spherical, umbellate, pineal and racemose;
- sepals of different types and varieties have a variety of shapes and can be double;
- Hydrangea blooms from early summer to late autumn;
- The number of inflorescences on a hydrangea increases as the plant ages.
When grown at home, hydrangea is quite whimsical, but if you follow the rules of care, it will definitely delight you with its flowering.
The color range of hydrangeas is diverse, and the color of the flowers depends on the acidity of the soil. Because of this property, hydrangea is called a plant chameleon. There are varieties that do not change their color depending on the chemical composition of the soil.
Flower buds of ordinary large-leaved hydrangea are formed at the tips of last year's shoots, so pruning is done only on shrunken, excess shoots, without touching the tops with flower buds.
Now new varieties have been developed in which buds with future flowers are formed on the shoots of both last and this year. These are called remontants.
Hydrangea is a shade-tolerant plant. Moreover, its flowers do not tolerate bright sunlight.
Under natural conditions, hydrangea grows in Asia, America, China and Japan. Several species are native to Russia's Far East.
Hydrangea does not tolerate intense heat, so it is planted in the garden only in shady places. It requires high air humidity.
Hydrangea leaves can be used in tea. The roots, branches and inflorescences of paniculata and tree hydrangea are used for medicinal purposes and various medicinal preparations are made from them.
Varieties of large-leaved hydrangea by flower color
There are a huge number of varieties of large-leaved hydrangea. Let's look at a few of the most popular ones, dividing them into color categories.
Light
Sister Therese (Soeur Therese):
- inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
- white inflorescences with a delicate lilac-pink tint change color to greenish-pink towards the end of flowering;
- blooms until September on last year's shoots;
- dense, spreading shrub.
Madame Emile Mouillere:
- inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
- flowers, pure white at the beginning of flowering, then acquire light pink or light blue shades;
- blooms profusely on shoots of last and this year until October;
- leaves are narrower than other varieties.
Blue
Early Blue:
- inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
- blue inflorescences with blue-violet hues initially have a greenish color;
- blooms profusely until October on shoots of the previous and current year;
- has a strong root system and compact bush.
Nikko Blue:
- inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
- the inflorescences are bright blue; to maintain the color, an acidic soil reaction of 5.5–7.0 pH is required;
- abundant flowering until September - October on the shoots of the current and last year;
- fast-growing medium-sized shrub.
Pink
Ramars Mars or Mars:
- inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
- pink-crimson inflorescences with a white edge, which turns green over time;
- compact bush.
Miss Saori:
- inflorescence diameter 18 cm;
- inflorescences are matte white with a pink border, retain their original color regardless of the acidity of the soil;
- blooms until September on shoots of the current and previous year;
- dark green foliage has a purple tint.
You and my love (You&me Love):
- stem height 100 cm;
- blooms continuously from May to September;
- in alkaline soil it is colored pink. in acidic, with a high content of aluminum - in blue;
- leaves are resistant to powdery mildew;
- frost resistance -29 o C.
Reds
Admiration:
- inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
- flowers are bright red;
- abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
- the bush has a dense crown.
Multicolor
Bavaria:
- inflorescence diameter 20 cm;
- lime-colored flowers with a violet-blue center and a white border;
- abundant flowering until October on last year's shoots;
- compact bush.
Hot Red:
- inflorescence diameter 15 cm;
- red flowers with high acidity of the soil have a purple tint;
- blooms until October on last year's shoots;
- The bush is lush and does not become prone to massive inflorescences.
Schloss Wackerbarth:
- inflorescence diameter 30 cm;
- pink inflorescences with a blue center and green edging, green at the beginning of flowering;
- flowering on last year's shoots until October-early November;
- flowers are decorated with light stamens.
Huge inflorescences, colorful petals, graceful stamens - all this is the Schloss Wackerbart variety
Beginning gardeners often look for the “hydrangea mix” variety. You should know that there is no such variety; this phrase refers to multi-colored hydrangeas in a composition or in a store’s assortment.
Potted hydrangeas grown at home in the photo
The hydrangea plant got its name in honor of a princess of the Roman Empire named Hortensia. 
Archaeological excavations in the northern regions of America have shown that hydrangea grew 40 thousand years ago. Large-leaved hydrangea can be successfully grown both in the garden and on a home windowsill. At home, hydrangea does not have to be kept on the window; it is a shade-tolerant plant. In the West, hydrangea is called French, since they learned about this plant after the first French expedition around the world. There are about 80 species and a huge number of varieties and hybrids of hydrangea. The owner of this hydrangea is clearly an original.
Caring for hydrangea at home
If the color of the sun is too bright, hydrangea inflorescences fade and become stained. Therefore, it should be placed on east or west windows. Hydrangea will grow well away from a window, especially from the south. For flowering, diffused light is sufficient for hydrangea.
To prevent the stems from breaking, inflorescences that are too heavy sometimes need to be supported using branch supports.
Hydrangea feels best outdoors. Therefore, at positive temperatures, it is advisable to keep it on the balcony, veranda or take it out into the garden. If this is not possible, then ventilate the room regularly, and in case of high temperatures, place it on northern windows.
Try to take hydrangeas out into the fresh air more often
Hydrangea does not like sudden changes in temperature, as well as drafts.
Hydrangea needs moist air:
- it is necessary to spray hydrangea in the morning, especially in dry, hot weather;
- in hot weather, be sure to place vessels with water nearby;
- A good option for moisturizing: place the flower in a container filled with water on a two-centimeter layer of expanded clay or coarse perlite.
Hydrangea does not tolerate drought, so the most important condition when growing it is to monitor soil moisture. It should always be slightly damp.
When watering, use soft water, as excess lime has a negative effect on the plant. To do this, you can boil the tap water, wait until sediment accumulates at the bottom, and drain clean water.
From spring to autumn, it is necessary to water the hydrangea abundantly and not remove the water from the pan. To retain moisture, mulch must be laid on top of the soil. It is best to use pine litter or crushed pine bark for this.
What materials are used as mulch:
- pine litter;
- crushed pine bark;
- pine sawdust;
- high peat;
- sphagnum moss.
In autumn, at the beginning of leaf fall, watering is reduced.
In winter, watering is needed only so as not to dry out the earthen ball and the roots of the plant. When the first new leaves appear, watering begins to increase.
Hydrangea also does not tolerate stagnant water; it requires good drainage.
Once or twice a month during watering it is necessary to acidify the soil. You can use lemon juice and citric acid for this.
- juice consumption: five drops per liter of water;
- citric acid consumption: powder on the tip of a knife per liter of water.
Hydrangea should be fed from the beginning of spring to the end of summer 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas or for flowering plants. Fertilizers for hydrangeas contain mainly magnesium and iron.
For better and faster growth of the green mass of the plant, you can feed it with nitrogen fertilizers during the growth period - before flowering.
Granular nitrogen fertilizers are dissolved in warm water and watered the plant once a week.
The norm of nitrogen in the form of carbamide (urea): half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.
It is convenient to use ammonia (ammonia) for spraying; this will also be an additional prevention of pests. You can also water the plant with it. It is enough to spray once a week. Ammonia use rate: half a teaspoon per 1 liter of water.
What indicators of soil acidity and alkalinity change the color of hydrangea
If you want to maintain or change the color of your hydrangea, there are special fertilizers for this.
Other methods can be used: adding aluminum sulfate or light liming with dolomite flour or ash. These drugs are used, making sure to control the acidity of the soil.
If the pH is 7.0, the soil is neutral; if it is lower, the soil is acidic; if it is higher, the soil is alkaline.
- acidic soil (Ph 3–6) with a high aluminum content supports blue, blue and violet shades of inflorescences;
- neutral or slightly acidic soil (pH 6–7) supports light, white colors;
- more alkaline soil (pH 7–8) with lower aluminum content produces pink and red colors.
The optimal acidity for hydrangeas is between 5.5–6.0 pH. Hydrangea does not tolerate highly alkaline (calcareous) soils! If the soil is highly alkaline, hydrangea cannot absorb iron; it develops chlorosis of the leaves, which turn yellow and fall off.
To determine acidity, you need to buy a special device.
Soil alkalinity indicators:
- slightly alkaline: pH 7–8;
- medium alkaline: pH 8–8.5;
- highly alkaline: pH - 8.5 and above.
Do not allow alkalinity to rise above 8 pH.
Acidity is maintained by pine litter, pine bark, high peat, watering with potassium permanganate and citric acid (or lemon juice).
Alkalinity is maintained by the presence of lime (chalk, dolomite flour) and ash in the soil.
Acidity should be measured a few days after application. If it does not reach the required value, the application should be repeated.
Red inflorescences can be “repainted” in lilac and purple shades, or change from pink to blue. Moreover, if you water only one side of the bush with the solution, you will get a very beautiful transition of colors.
When using such products, make sure that they do not come into contact with leaves and flowers, and do not exceed the dosage!
Dosages of drugs that change the chemical composition of the soil:
- To change the color pink to blue, red to violet-lilac, you need to increase the concentration of aluminum in the soil: 1 tablespoon of aluminum sulfate per 1 liter of water.
- We change the blue color to pink, stopping fertilizing with aluminum and increasing the alkaline reaction of the soil: dig 1 teaspoon of dolomite flour evenly into the soil and monitor the alkalinity, which should be within 7–8 pH. If the pH is less than 7, add ash to the soil (1-2 tablespoons). When watering, add potassium permanganate to the water 1–2 times a month: 5–7 grains per liter of water.
Don't expect immediate changes. The color may begin to change only from the second season. If the color of the hydrangea still does not change, you will have to replace the soil.
Pruning: do's and don'ts
If the variety grows slowly, pruning should be done infrequently. Accordingly, if the hydrangea grows quickly, then it will have to be pruned more often.
Do not forget that hydrangea inflorescences are located at the tops of the shoots, so they cannot be cut off. You can trim shoots for better branching either from only planted cuttings (in the second year after planting) or from remontant hydrangeas.
If your hydrangea produces an abundance of shoots, then you can cut off the extra ones, even with flowers; they stand in water for a long time. Perhaps they will take root and give birth to new plants.
Faded inflorescences are cut off as they dry above the topmost bud.
Principles of pruning hydrangea:
- if the plant is less than 4 years old, only dry shoots need to be trimmed;
- On hydrangeas, old, thickened and small shoots are pruned;
- shoots for thinning are pruned in the spring, but diseased and dry shoots can be pruned in the fall;
- Do not water the plant for a couple of days before pruning.
How to prune hydrangea:
- Select dry, excess or too small shoots and trim them with sharp, sterile scissors or pruners.
- Treat the sections with turmeric, brilliant green or activated carbon powder.
- You can water the hydrangea a day after pruning, when the cuts have dried out a little.
The plant should have no more than eight main trunks. 4–5 branches are left on each trunk.
Rest period
At the beginning of leaf fall, to prevent the roots from rotting, reduce watering of the hydrangea. The plant no longer consumes as much water as during growth and flowering, so it is important to monitor the condition of the soil. It should be about the same as wet store-bought soil when you first open the package.
After dropping the hydrangea leaves, it is necessary to ensure a temperature of less than 10 o C.
Hydrangea overwinters best at a temperature of +5–8 o C. Therefore, the best option is to take the pot with the plant to a dry basement. We must remember to water the soil little by little at this time to prevent the death of the root system.
If you do not have a basement, you should place the hydrangea in the coolest place in your house or apartment. She doesn't need light at this time.
At the very beginning of spring, hydrangea needs to be brought into the house, first placing it in the coolest but brightest place. When it grows leaves, you can move the plant to a warmer place.
Table: how to care for hydrangea
| Season | Lighting | Watering | Temperature | Humidity | Feeding | Acidity |
| Spring Summer | Scattered light | Abundant, soil should always be moist | +17–22 °С | 50–60%, spraying in the morning with warm soft water | 2 times a month with fertilizer for hydrangeas, azaleas, or flowering plants | Acidify the water when watering 1-2 times a month: 5 drops of lemon juice or citric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water |
| Autumn. Dropping leaves | Scattered light | Moderate, declines in winter | +9–12 °С | Not less than 50% | Don't fertilize | Acidify water 1-2 times a month |
| Winter. Quiet time | Can be kept without light | Very moderate, just so as not to dry out the soil and roots | +5–8 °С | Low | Don't fertilize | Watering with water without acid |
Diseases and treatment
Hydrangeas rarely get sick. But with improper care and weakened immunity, the plant can be affected by fungal or bacterial diseases and be attacked by pests.
The main problems when growing hydrangea:
- if hydrangea is kept in too humid and shaded conditions, powdery mildew (a fungal disease) may form on the plant;
- in very dry and hot weather (more than +27 o C), hydrangea can be affected by spider mites;
- in extreme heat (more than +30 o C), hydrangea can shed its leaves; if the sun is too strong, the leaves begin to turn yellow; the flowers dry out and wither;
- on alkaline soils (excess lime, pH value more than 8), hydrangea develops chlorosis - yellowing of leaves;
- if there is insufficient air and soil humidity, hydrangea stops blooming, the leaves dry out, and the roots may dry out;
- With poor drainage and excessive watering, the roots begin to rot, and as a result, fungal diseases form.
Table: hydrangea problems and their solutions
| Problem | Cause | Solution |
| Flowers and shoots wither | Roots are flooded or there are gnawing pests in the soil | If there is no drainage, an urgent replanting of the plant with replacement of the soil is necessary:
If the hydrangea has not been watered, check the soil for the presence of pests (they are clearly visible in the soil after watering). Treat the soil with Grom-2. |
| The leaves turn yellow and fall off. The leaf itself is yellow, the veins are green, then it dries | Chlorosis - from excess lime in the soil, too bright light and lack of iron in the soil. | Move the plant to diffused light, you can even remove it from the windowsill. Measure the acidity of the soil; if it is above 8 Ph, it needs to be replaced. Do not water hydrangea with hard water with too much lime. Feed the plant with iron chelate: dissolve 4 grams of iron sulfate in a liter of filtered (or distilled) warm water, add 2.5 grams of citric acid |
| The leaves are drying at the edges | Lack of moisture | Ensure timely watering, spray the plant in the morning with warm boiled water without sediment |
| Spots appear on the leaves. A whitish coating on the leaves, then holes form in place of the spots and plaque | Fungal or bacterial disease. Whitish coating - powdery mildew | Treat with a fungicide (for example, Chisloflor + Fitolavin) in three doses every week. Check whether the maintenance conditions comply with the necessary standards: temperature, humidity, watering, lighting. Feed with complex fertilizer |
| Hydrangea doesn't bloom | The plant did not have a period of winter dormancy. Temperature too high | Place the hydrangea in the coolest, least sunny location. Spray with the addition of an immunostimulant (Epin, Zircon) and feed with fertilizer with phosphorus: 2g Superphosphate per 1 liter of water. 7-8 drops of Epin are enough for 1 liter |
| Too spacious container for roots | Repot in a smaller pot that matches the size of the root system. | |
| The trunk began to turn black at the bottom | Black leg - rot from stagnation of water + low temperatures |
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| Shoots dry out and break | The root system is overdried |
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| There are growths on the leaves, white “fluff”, cobwebs | Presence of pests: growths - scale insects; white “fluff” - mealybug; cobwebs - mite | Treat with a comprehensive pest control product. Scale insects and scale insects must first be cleaned off, then the plant must be sprayed with the preparation |
| Leaves have holes, flower buds wither and fall off, leaves and shoots wither | Pests: weevil, aphid | Treat with a pest control product. For example, Fitoverm, Bitoxibacillin |
| There are visible passages from microworms on the leaves. | The soil is infected with nematodes | Treat the soil and leaves with Nematophagin. It is advisable to replace the soil (after replanting, treat it two or three times for prevention) |
| The leaves have circular or multi-colored spots. Leaves wither and become deformed | Viral disease | Insects are carriers of viruses. Check the flower for their presence, remove the affected parts of the plant. Treat the soil and plant for two months 2 times a week with the following composition: Phytolavin on the tip of a teaspoon + 8 drops of Epin + one dose of ExtraFlorN1 + Boric acid on the tip of a knife per 1 liter of water. First, dilute boric acid - it is diluted only in water with a temperature of more than 40 o C. This complex is antiviral, pest repellent, fungicidal and immunostimulating. The plant must be kept in quarantine separately from others; if there are no signs of cure, it will have to be destroyed, the soil thrown away, and the pot treated with boiling water. |
To prevent fungal and bacterial diseases, add a bio-product based on beneficial bacteria to the soil when watering 1-2 times a month: Gamair, Rizoplan (Planriz), Alirin-B.
Video: diseases and pests of hydrangea
Planting (transplanting) hydrangea: choosing soil, pot and instructions
It is not possible to grow a luxurious plant in every soil. The soil for hydrangeas should be loose, acidic and nutritious. You can prepare the soil yourself: turf soil 2 parts, pine litter 1 part, peat 1 part, crushed pine bark 0.5 parts, sand 0.5 parts.
From ready-made purchased soils, you can use soils for hydrangeas, azaleas, rhododendrons, and conifers.
Hydrangea loves water very much, but in a swamp it will also feel bad, the roots will begin to rot and fungal diseases will appear. Therefore, when planting, it is necessary to provide it with good drainage.
Drainage includes holes in the bottom of the pot and a 1-2 cm layer of expanded clay, pebbles or coarse perlite.
The pot needs to be changed as the root system grows. Do not plant the plant in a pot that is too spacious. When the roots completely fill the space, then transplant the plant into a slightly larger pot. The roots of hydrangea grow shallow but dense.
On average, hydrangeas need to be replanted every 3-4 years in early spring.
For planting, prepare:
- new pot;
- land;
- drainage;
- mulch: pine litter, crushed pine bark, pine sawdust or peat (sphagnum can also be used);
- boiled water with the addition of potassium permanganate until slightly pink (for irrigation);
- spray bottle with warm clean water (for spraying leaves).
Landing rules:
- When planting, roots that are too long can be trimmed with sterile scissors;
- The root collar can be deepened by 2–3 cm;
- When replanting, the soil is not dried out; part of the soil remains on the roots;
- After planting, the soil must be compacted so that there are no voids between the roots (this can lead to their drying out);
- When planting, the roots should be straightened down and not bent;
- After transplantation, some leaves of the hydrangea may fall off - this is normal.
Planting stages
- We take the plant out of the pot, carefully separating the earthen lump from the walls with a knife.
- Pour drainage and a little soil into the bottom of the pot, place the hydrangea in the center and cover the roots with soil 2-3 cm above the root collar.
- We compact the earth, add more soil if necessary and water it well. Spray the leaves with warm water.
- Place a 1–1.5 cm layer of mulch on top.
We shake off excess soil from the roots and inspect them, if necessary, cut off excess, dry and diseased ones.
A few days after planting, the hydrangea needs to be fed with complex fertilizer.
Video: planting and growing potted hydrangea
Reproduction of indoor hydrangea
Hydrangea is propagated at home by cuttings, dividing the bush or seeds. The simplest and most effective way is cuttings. Hydrangea propagated in this way blooms in the second year after planting. Rooting of cuttings occurs easily both in soil and in water.
Cuttings can be done from late May to September.
Cuttings in the ground
For cuttings you need to prepare:
- sterile pruning shears;
- drug Kornevin;
- substrate for planting (clean sand or infertile soil);
- small low pot;
- shelter (cellophane, cut plastic bottle, etc.);
- spray bottle with warm water;
- turmeric or charcoal powder for processing cuts.
For cuttings, it is better to choose green, non-lignified shoots.
Step-by-step cutting process:
- Cut off the selected green cutting.
- We make a cut under the lower bud.
- We also cut off part of the branch above the upper bud.
- Cut off excess lower leaves.
- Trim the remaining leaves by about half to reduce water evaporation
- We dip the lower cut in Kornevin and place the lower part of the cutting at a slight angle into a dry substrate of 1.5–2 cm. If you are planting several cuttings, the leaves should not touch the soil or each other.
- We wet the substrate generously from a spray bottle with warm water.
- We dust the cuts with turmeric or charcoal, cover the cuttings and place them in a shady, cool place for a month.
- it is necessary to check the condition of the substrate 1-2 times a week and spray it so that it does not dry out;
- the optimal temperature for rooting is +18–25 o C;
- a month and a half after rooting, the cuttings are planted in a more nutritious mixture (one per pot). Can be planted in regular hydrangea soil;
- by winter, the cuttings are prepared for dormancy, like ordinary hydrangeas;
- in the spring, fertilize or spray the cuttings with nitrogen fertilizer for better growth until June once a week;
- in May next year after planting, the cuttings can be cut by 2/3 for better branching.
Video: how to propagate hydrangea from cuttings
Option with rooting in water
We perform the same actions as for rooting in the substrate, but we do not dip the lower cut of the cutting into Kornevin, but add this preparation to the water at the tip of a knife. You can add the drug Methylene blue (sold in the aquarium departments of pet stores). It conditions and disinfects water, protecting against fungal infections. It is enough to tint the water a little to a blue tint.
Hydrangea cuttings do not emit substances that greatly spoil the water, so it does not need to be changed. but only add as it evaporates.
We place the cuttings in water until roots form and plant them in the ground after the roots have grown a little.
Roots usually grow within a month.
Dividing the bush
It is better to divide the bush in the spring, although this operation can be performed in the fall (before or after flowering).
To divide a bush:
- take the hydrangea out of the pot;
- shake off excess soil;
- Check the roots and cut off the dried ones if necessary.
- we look for a suitable place for division and cut the bush with a sterile sharp knife;
- We plant the cuttings according to the usual pattern.
Propagation by seeds
Plants obtained from seeds bloom in the third year.
- Hydrangea seeds are sown in February in a mixture of: 4 parts leaf soil, 2 parts peat, 1 part sand, 1 part humus;
- You can also sow in one of the purchased soils for hydrangeas (as well as conifers, azaleas, rhododendrons);
- Hydrangea seeds do not need pre-planting treatment, but for better germination, you can add Epin to the water you use from a spray bottle to moisten the soil: 7-8 drops per half liter of water.
Step-by-step instructions for sowing hydrangea seeds
- We sow the seeds superficially and evenly on a moist substrate.
- Sprinkle quite a bit (!) of sand on top. Wet it from a spray bottle and cover it with glass or other transparent lid.
- Place in a warm, bright place (+18–28 o C). But not in direct sunlight!
- We monitor the humidity and regularly spray the substrate.
- We ventilate every day for about five minutes, wipe the glass from condensation.
- When shoots appear, remove the glass.
The seeds germinate within a month.
The seedlings are planted in the same substrate when the first pair of leaves appears on them.
When the young plants have five leaves, they need to be replanted.
Small sprouts need to be fed with nitrogen and potassium fertilizer (watered or sprayed) 2 times a month.
Fertilizer composition: dilute half a teaspoon of carbamide (urea) in warm water, add a few granules of potassium permanganate (potassium fertilizer) until a slightly pink color is obtained.
Despite the fact that caring for hydrangea is quite difficult, it is completely worth it when luxurious buds appear. No other flower can compare with hydrangea in either the size or brightness of the inflorescences.