DIY decorative stone. How to make an artificial stone with your own hands at home: making an artificial decorative stone step by step How to make an artificial decorative stone

Recently, cladding the external and internal walls of houses with decorative stone has become increasingly popular. Using natural stone for these purposes is expensive, so an artificial analogue is more often used. The technology for its production is quite simple, but manufacturers set fairly high retail prices. In such a situation, making artificial stone with your own hands becomes relevant.

Features of the material

At different times, ideas about artificial stone were different. It is not surprising that at first this material was considered exclusively as a construction material. Later they began to pay attention to the decorative properties obtained by certain production methods. Then we thought about the possibility of using it in building decoration.

History of development

They began to replace natural stone with artificial stone in construction long before our era. At first, lime and gypsum were used as starting materials, later they began to use a material whose composition was similar to modern concrete. In the Middle Ages, natural stone chips began to be added to concrete mortar. This not only increased the strength of the building material, but also made it possible to imitate the structure of natural stone.

An important stage that marked a new era in the use of progressive materials was the invention of polymer-based concrete solutions. Various resins began to be added to the composition as a binder. Strength was ensured by mineral fillers, and decorative properties were enhanced by the introduction of coloring pigments.

For the first time, artificial finishing stone was patented in the USA in the sixties of the twentieth century. Since then, serial industrial production of decorative finishing stone has been established throughout the world.

Artificial building and finishing materials played a particularly important role after the end of World War II, when in Europe there was a need to restore many damaged and destroyed buildings. At that time, not only building stone was required in large quantities, but also decorative stone, since the facades of buildings had to be made with high aesthetic standards.

Current situation

In the modern understanding, artificial stones include a wide range of industrial materials characterized by imitation of the structure of natural stone. Depending on the composition and functions performed, artificial stone comes in three types:

It makes no sense to make building stone yourself, since the costs will be comparable to the cost of ready-made blocks. It is impossible to obtain acrylic stone at home due to complex manufacturing technology that requires special conditions and equipment.

But anyone can make a decorative facing stone with their own hands. The resulting product, if the conditions of the technological process are correctly observed, will not differ from store-bought products, and will cost several times less.

Decorative facing stone

The artificial facing stone currently produced successfully imitates the cut of a natural stone with its surface. Externally, the analogue is almost impossible to distinguish from the original. Moreover, the imitation is devoid of many of the disadvantages of natural material.

Advantages of artificial material

Natural stone has always been a material that emphasizes status. Its main advantage is its unique texture and individual colors. But even over it, artificially produced tiles have their advantages:

Surface Features

The artificial material is suitable for many different design solutions. Its surface can imitate not only the necessary texture, but also have a given geometry. Depending on the type of surface, decorative material can be:

Mixture components

The composition of the mixture for the production of artificial facing stone is always very simple. There are several options for its preparation. Depending on capabilities and availability, use:

• cement;
• gypsum;
• sand;
• stone chips;
• gravel.

Special coloring pigments are usually used as an additive. Sometimes, to increase the strength characteristics, polymer materials are introduced into the mixture.

Independent production

Due to the simplicity of the composition of the material, making decorative stone with your own hands has recently become popular. The production process is quite easy and does not require special skills. All work can be carried out even in an ordinary apartment.

Regardless of the mixture recipe you choose, you will need a mold to produce stone tiles.

Purchasing and creating forms

Forms for future tiles can also be purchased in the store. You should not give preference to plastic models. They are usually characterized by low price and short service life. Removing finished plastic products is also more difficult.

The best option is elastic silicone molds. They can last for quite a long time and will allow you to make more than one batch of stones. To save more money, you can also do it yourself.

Samples will be required for silicone pouring. You can use store-bought artificial stone tiles as these. You need to purchase several stone tiles of the texture you like - they will determine the future shape of your products. You can use any natural stone you like as a basis, but industrial tiles have optimal dimensions and are more convenient.

You can make two types of molds:

Silicone sealant can be used as a material to create the mold. It is convenient to purchase it in buckets that can hold a large volume. The form creation process is as follows:

Making stone

Making an imitation of wild stone with your own hands is not difficult and there is no point in describing each step in detail. However, the basic operations need to be mentioned.

Gypsum tiles are usually used for interior decoration. All work must be carried out on a horizontal surface, checked using a level. This will avoid variations in tile thickness.

The process consists of the following steps:

The process for making cement imitation natural stone is similar. Gray cement or Portland cement is used as a base. For one part of cement, take three parts of sand and mix dry. Then water is gradually added and the composition is mixed until a moderately thick consistency is obtained. At the same time, the coloring pigment should be added. To increase plastic properties, you can add PVA glue at the rate of 50 grams per liter of cement mortar.

The finished solution is poured into molds. Complete hardening occurs within 24 hours. Products received cannot be used immediately. They must gain strength. To do this, you will need to keep them for two weeks in a dry, ventilated area.

Application of finished products

It is worth mentioning the important nuances associated with wall cladding with artificial stone tiles. It is recommended to lay the tiles on a mortar made from the same material as the stone itself. Under such conditions, maximum adhesion between the tile and the wall will be achieved.

The masonry can be made seamless, or you can create a special effect using an even seam. To improve the decorative effect, the width of the seam is supported by silicone or plastic clamps. After the solution has set, these elements are removed, and the gap between the tiles is filled with special grouts.

The answer to the question of how to make artificial stone turned out to be very simple. The consumables needed for production are widely available and quite affordable. If you plan to decorate large areas, making tiles yourself is very profitable from an economic point of view. Moreover, if the technological process is carefully followed, the quality of homemade stones will be identical to the characteristics of industrially produced products.

Stone has been used in construction for centuries. The material is strong and durable, thanks to which buildings were built to last for centuries. A couple of hundred years ago, only rich people could afford a house made of stone, while the rest were content with wood or clay-based compounds. Although new technologies for processing the material have now appeared, prices for it have not decreased much. For this reason, granite, marble and sandstone in the interior are considered a sign of elite design, which only wealthy home owners can afford. For those who value the excellent aesthetic properties of the material, but cannot afford it for one reason or another, the construction industry offers a number of imitations that are indistinguishable from the original in appearance. In terms of strength, they are of course much inferior to real stone, but their main function is decorative, and not protective, as in the old days. Therefore, such a minus can be added to the list of relative ones. For those who do not trust imitation manufacturers and have free time for manual labor, we suggest making decorative stone with your own hands. The process is divided into three stages:

• Preparing the mold;
• Mixing the composition and pouring it into the mold;
• Removing and fixing to the surface to be decorated.

We will talk about each stage of the work in detail in this article, which will provide detailed instructions and step-by-step master classes that even a beginner can handle.

About decorative stone

Artificial stone is classified into two main types:

• For exterior decoration. It must withstand all the vagaries of nature and be strong, since the climate conditions outside are more aggressive: rain, frost, heat, snow, hail.

• For interior decoration. “Stone” decor has become in demand in recent years due to the popularization of styles that actively use it (loft, chalet, fusion, art deco).

Another classification is based on the type of material from which the decorative stone is made:

• Concrete. The basis of the mixture is cement, pigments, sand, various fillers and reinforcing compounds. The material is durable and is used to decorate walls inside the house, external decoration of facades and even as paving slabs on garden paths.

• Conglomerate. This type of imitation is stronger than concrete, which is why it is more expensive than other analogues. The material is based on real granite and marble chips with the addition of sand, limestone and coloring pigments. Conglomerate has an advantage over natural stone: it is much lighter. Externally, the material does not differ from the original, does not fade in the sun, and is not afraid of moisture, which is why it takes first place in the rating of imitations. Used to decorate the walls of the house outside and inside. Countertops and decorative tiles are made from it - a facing material for finishing kitchen aprons, fireplaces, and floors.

• Porcelain tiles. In its manufacture, several types of clay, dyes to impart color, feldspar and minerals are used. The material is durable, not exposed to the sun and moisture, but is sensitive to household chemicals (abrasive compounds), so it is not recommended for use when decorating the lower (brand itself) part of the wall, kitchen aprons and other places that require regular cleaning. Visually, porcelain stoneware looks more like tiled tiles with a “stone” pattern.

• Acrylic stone. A practical and inexpensive material that is used only for interior decoration. Manufacturers offer a wide range of shades. Acrylic stone does not accumulate dirt and is easy to clean with a damp cloth.

• Quartz. Finishing materials are made from natural minerals, so it would be wrong to classify them as artificial imitations. However, it is used specifically for decoration, so quartz stone is an interior element that serves as decoration.

• Plaster. This stone is used only for interior decoration. You can make plaster fragments with your own hands. The material is cheap, but with a strong impact it cracks and crumbles. Gypsum is not sensitive to moisture only if it is reliably protected by a special coating, otherwise it will begin to soften.

The cheapest options can be included in a separate category. They are sold in the form of solid panels, which, if necessary, are cut to fit into pieces of the desired size. Such decorative panels are made from plasterboard, polystyrene foam and plastics. Polyurethane and plastic plates reliably imitate the outlines of each wild pebble, but can easily be damaged by mechanical impact (impact), so they cannot be called durable.

One of the most original options is considered to be artificial stone that imitates the texture of wood. Surprisingly, two materials with such different characteristics can create an organic duet that is not ashamed to decorate even a luxurious interior.

Required materials and tools

Making artificial stone at home is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance. The scale of work depends on the amount of material needed to decorate the house. For some interiors, it is enough to make a couple of samples that will cover wall defects, while in other rooms stone dominates the accent walls, almost completely displacing the usual plaster. To work you will need:

• Molds (molds). You can buy them ready-made or make them yourself.
• Main material (gypsum, acrylic, cement).
• A screwdriver with a “mixer” attachment for mixing the composition.
• Bucket and measuring cup, scales.
• Plumbing silicone for sealing gaps, plywood and wafer for making molds.
• Pallets with sand to protect molds when using gypsum and cement composition.
• Paints, brushes, trowels, airbrush.
• Special glue or cement for fixing the stone to the wall.

The list of tools can be supplemented depending on the complexity of the work: additional painting, giving a special relief to the surface of the stone (porosity).

When working with fragile foam, you will need a respirator, a utility knife and a soldering iron. However, we will consider the procedures for manufacturing more complex and durable products that will last for many years.

Mold making

The shape of the decorative stone determines its appearance. To obtain variety, you can prepare several different templates at once, samples of which will alternate during installation. Typically, tray modules consisting of at least ten cells are used. Large molds will speed up the process of making stone if you need a lot of it. As for materials, silicone or plastic is usually used. Unfortunately, the service life of such molds is limited by a certain number of fills. Polyurethane is a more expensive option. These molds can be reused as much as you like, while the shape will retain its original appearance. Any stone you like will be suitable as a sample for the matrix.

Some people use molds made from boards. Moreover, the more irregularities and roughness on their surfaces, the better. The composition after pouring will repeat these defects, which will give it a resemblance to wild stone. A sample is not needed with this technique.

The simplest and cheapest option is silicone sealant. Its significant disadvantage is that it takes a long time to dry. This material requires careful handling, as it stretches quite quickly and the mold loses its original shape. In general, silicone is distinguished by its degree of viscosity. Forms with a high level of detail are made from liquid compositions, which is not required when creating stone. Thick silicone is ideal for replicating the rough, rough surface of a natural sample. The stones are laid in orderly rows on plywood or a sheet of chipboard. It is advisable to pre-glue them. Each stone is then coated with a release agent, which will prevent it from sticking to the mold. After this, formwork is constructed from MDF or plywood, which is attached to a flat base. All joints are carefully sealed. Then the mold is filled with silicone. Now you need to leave the mold to dry (about a day). After this, the formwork is disassembled and the mold is carefully separated from the samples. If somewhere the mold does not give in, then you can carefully help it with a stationery knife.

To avoid the formation of voids, the silicone is carefully leveled and lightly tamped with a spatula. To prevent the tool from getting stuck in the solidifying liquid, it is lubricated with grease or any dishwashing liquid.

Compound is a polymer mixture containing two main components:

• Viscous substance.
• A catalyst that, under certain conditions, initiates the hardening process.

Compound molds are made in the same way as silicone molds. By the way, it is also present in most compositions. A bottle of catalyst is included with the base substance. In a separate container, the two components are carefully mixed. It is not recommended to vigorously beat the compound, as this will create bubbles, which can then lead to unsightly voids in the artificial pebbles. Then the mixture is poured into samples mounted on a piece of plywood and surrounded by formwork. If the matrix is ​​small, then it can be made in a large bucket or bowl. After hardening, the molds are washed with running water, since the smell of the compound is not pleasant.

The compound is often used to create molds for soap, wax candles and even repeating elements of bas-reliefs and sculptures.

Stone production and pouring technology

After the molds are ready, you can begin casting the decorative stone. The principle of working with any of the materials is the same:

• First stir the composition.
• Then the molds are lubricated with a separator to prevent the stones from sticking to the matrix.
• Next, the composition is poured into molds.
• Periodically, the surface is compacted with a spatula to eliminate voids.
• Then the future pebbles are given time to “rest”, that is, to freeze.

After partial hardening, the stones are removed from the molds and subjected to final drying.

By the way, there are simpler, budget options. For example, embossed pieces of egg trays are glued onto a cardboard base. They are then covered with a thin layer of papier-mâché (soaked paper) and stationery glue. The final painting completes the process. Such decorative stones are ideal if you need “quick decor”. For example, you needed to decorate the fireplace for New Year on the eve of the holiday, or you urgently need to close an ugly corner in the room.

Based on gypsum mortar

Gypsum mortar has a big drawback - it sets quickly. For this reason, you will have to fill out the forms quickly. If the amount of work is large, then it is better to do it in “portions” or call someone for help. To slightly slow down the hardening of the gypsum, you can add a couple of grams of citric acid to it. The mixture is poured into the molds and gently shaken or passed over the top with a spatula to fill the voids. After the initial hardening, the pebbles are removed from the molds and left to dry for another day.

Based on cement mortar

Cement-based stones are created in several stages. The reason for this is the reinforcing mesh, which is necessary to give the product strength.

• Mix a dry solution of sand and cement in proportions of 1:3.
• Add dye to the water and stir.
• The colored liquid is poured into a dry solution. You can measure by eye, since the mixture should be similar in consistency to sour cream.
• It is thoroughly shaken so that all the voids are filled.

At the next stage, a reinforcing mesh is placed in each mold: it is simply “drowned” in the solution. Then the workpieces are completely filled with the same mixture or a new one without dye (in order to save money). When the solution dries slightly and becomes more viscous on its surface, which will be attached to the wall, make a couple of grooves with a nail to ensure better adhesion.

This option is perhaps the most time-consuming. Cast stone is made from four components:

• Acrylic (resin);
• Hardener;
• Pigment;
• Filler (gravel, granite or marble chips).

First, natural stones are thoroughly washed with any soap (even regular “Fairy” will do). Then they are calcined over fire and rinsed with water. After drying, the filler is mixed with the dye in a separate container. Then the acrylic resin is diluted with a hardener and colored pebbles are added to it. Now you need to quickly fill the mold with solution. Leave about 15-20 minutes until the acrylic sets. The stones dry very quickly, about 1 hour. Then they are carefully separated from the molds and left to dry for another day.

The phrase “liquid stone” refers to the technology for producing a special coating for countertops, sinks, walls, and furniture facades. The material is sold in construction stores. Liquid stone is made by casting or spraying. We are interested in the first option. The components (hardener, polyester resin, filler) are mixed into a composition, which is then quickly poured into the mold. To form a protective film on the surface of the pebbles, the mold is lubricated with gelcoat before pouring.

There are two ways to color a stone:

• Add pigment to its composition.
• Apply special paint to the surface after production.

The second method allows you to create a unique design with darker and lighter areas, which will only increase the resemblance to the original. To color the solution itself, inorganic pigments based on iron oxides are used. They give the mass bright shades, do not contain abrasive impurities and are highly dispersible. Decorative stone will not lose its color over time and will not fade from constant contact with sunlight.

Separators

Separators are special compounds that are used to lubricate molds before pouring the mixture. With their help, the finished pebbles will not stick to the walls of the mold and will be easily separated. For different mixtures, special compositions are used:

• For concrete, grease or lithol is used.
• For gypsum products, use a mixture of turpentine and wax in a ratio of 7:1. Making it is quite simple. Turpentine is heated in a water bath and wax shavings are added to it in portions.
• For acrylic, use a mixture of styrene and stearin in a ratio of 1:10.

When pouring a mixture of gypsum or concrete, which heats up during the hardening process, silicone molds must be additionally protected. For these purposes, they are placed 2/3 in a special container with sand.

Decorative cobblestones are used in summer cottages to disguise hatches or septic tanks that disfigure the landscape. They can also become part of the composition under a waterfall, fountain or in the garden near the gazebo. The principle of making cobblestones is the same as the technology for creating decorative stones. But there will be problems with the mold, since the dimensions of the product will require a large amount of silicone composition. The task can be completed without a form if the master has the skills of a sculptor. A frame is formed from the reinforcing mesh, which is filled with foam plastic or other lightweight material.

This will significantly reduce the weight of the cobblestone, since its surface will be made of concrete. Then the cement composition is mixed and applied in layers to the frame with a trowel. At the same time, the cobblestone is shaped and irregularities, bends, and roughness are made. You can use special brushes. Then the surface is allowed to harden, after which the cobblestone is turned upside down and a layer of cement is also applied. Next, the boulder is finally dried, ground and painted if necessary. As an alternative, you can make an unusual mold from fabric. In this case, a cast is taken from the original cobblestone. It is wrapped in a piece of cloth soaked in cement mortar. After drying, the piece is carefully treated again with cement to secure it. This mold is disposable, since its surface will be the “front” part of the cobblestone. Then they proceed according to the principle described above: frame, apply cement for bonding, and place a frozen cast on top. This is followed by bottom treatment and painting.

How to dry stone

Artificial stone needs to be dried in a special unit. If you don’t have one, you can make a primitive version of it yourself. Any old cabinet will be suitable for these purposes. All its “insides” are taken out and special lattice shelves are made. It is necessary that the pebbles dry not only on the top and sides, but also on the bottom, so they should not be placed on solid surfaces. If only ordinary shelves are available, then holes are evenly drilled in them to allow warm air to enter. Then the walls and door of the cabinet are lined with penofol. The artificial dryer must be closed tightly. If there is no door, then the cabinet is “draped” with the same penofol.

Depending on the type of material, different compositions are used to paint stone. For gypsum products, water-based paint, concrete impregnation, acrylic varnish or glaze are suitable. To obtain bright shades, application of the composition must be repeated two or three times. To shade the whiteness of the plaster, one coat of varnish is enough. Painting can be done the old fashioned way with a brush or use a modern airbrush. Due to different distances to the surface, the sprayer can give it completely different shades. Concrete is coated with acrylic, silicone, silicate paints or a primer with added pigments. Organic-based water-dispersive compositions adhere well to plastic. It is not recommended to use oil and enamel paints for decorative stone; they are only suitable for wood and metal. If some individual areas need to be highlighted in a different color, then the area around them is sealed with masking tape. It is also used to protect another surface when color is added to the decor already on the wall. It is not recommended to use “pure” colors, since they are not typical for natural stone.

To give the stone an antique effect, an uneven layer of green paint is applied to its surface, imitating patina.

A few words about laying artificial wall stone

Facing is a creative process that completes the entire decorative stone “epic”. Place finished fragments on any surface. Concrete or brick are directly bonded to the decor with special compounds, but wood will have to be prepared. It is additionally covered with a layer of moisture insulation and a lathing is formed. The stone is attached using a cement solution or special glue. The fragments can be laid with or without jointing. The first option is preferable, since grouting the gaps gives the decor a more natural look. If you plan to join the seams, then leave an empty space of no more than 2 cm between each fragment. Then, after installing the decor, it is filled with grout. Before fixing it, it is better to place the stones on the floor and try different combinations of their placement to find the best option. The installation itself begins from the corners and around window and door openings. Only then do they begin to secure the fragments in horizontal rows. Partial decoration of walls around some large element (arches, openings, niches) is popular among us. The “torn” edge gives the composition a careless but stylish look.

Conclusion

In order to create an original decoration for the interior of a house in the form of decorative bricks, you will have to spend a lot of effort and time. It’s better to be patient in advance. The most difficult thing in this work is not even pouring the stone into the molds, but creating the molds themselves. Of course, you can buy them in a store, but samples from such molds will no longer be unique, original. Durable concrete products are suitable for decorating the facade of a house. Using decorative stone in the interior of a room, you can create the illusion of a fortress rampart or a casual finish. This element organically blends into loft (instead of brick), eco style, art deco and some ethnic trends. The stone is universal and can be combined with different surfaces: wallpaper, wood, plaster. If desired, you can create a design based on the principle of contrast or analogy with other finishing materials.

There are several ways to produce artificial stone

Finishing and repair work at the dacha, installation of garden paths and landscaping require certain costs for materials such as natural and artificial stone, tiles, and others. Today we reduce costs and tell you how to do DIY artificial stone for your dacha.

This process is quite interesting, and we found several educational master classes on the Internet. We have collected the most interesting facts that will help with the independent production of material, and we are now presenting them to your attention.

What is artificial stone made from?

There are several ways to produce fairly good quality material. The first method is sand, cement and water, the second is making it from alabaster or gypsum, the third and generally creative method is glue, grout, pigment and sea salt. There are many other options, and therefore we invite everyone to personally choose a manufacturing recipe, naturally, based on the performance requirements, available materials and budget for the process.

The procedure is quite simple, all you need is your desire and adherence to technology.

Manufacturing process

If we take the simplest algorithm as a basis, then the process of manufacturing material for finishing and decoration can be invested in just a few points:

• Selection of materials for mixing;
• Dosing and mixing;
• Laying in molds and drying;
• Receipt of material, partial finishing.

If you decide on the recipe in advance, there will be only one difficulty left - finding a high-quality form. You can buy it at a construction supermarket (you may need several forms, depending on the quantity). Or you can make the mold yourself; it’s not as difficult as it might seem.

DIY cement stone

With a quality mold on hand, you can begin the process. Mix cement, sand and water in a special trough (the same can be done using a special concrete mixer), add a little dye to the solution (about 2-3% of the total amount, always diluted with water). Having received the mixture, bring it to a creamy consistency. If necessary, add plasticizer to the mixture.

Now you need to place the mold for production on a flat surface and pour the solution into it (only half of the mold). The solution should be well compacted by shaking the mold or using a tool. Next, you need to lay a reinforcing mesh to make the stone more durable and uniform, and pour the rest of the solution into the mold, also compacting it.

After some time, when the solution in the mold begins to dry (in the next few minutes), you need to take a nail, screwdriver or piece of wood and draw a little on the surface of each individual stone to ensure a more suitable surface shape for high-quality adhesion to the base during finishing.

After 14-16 hours, the stone can be carefully shaken out of the mold and placed in a well-ventilated and dark place to dry and gain strength. Drying time is about 12-14 days. After this operation, wash the mold well with detergent and proceed to making the next batch.

DIY gypsum stone

Essentially, this is the same process that we examined earlier, there is only one clarification - gypsum hardens much faster than cement mortar, and therefore it should be prepared in small portions, say, for each individual stone separately, having previously calculated the material.

Prepare a clean mold for pouring, grease it with oil to make it easier to remove the product, mix the gypsum solution with dye, pour half of the mold, lay the mesh and fill the mold to the end. Sealing is a must!

How to paint a product

For the first and second recipes, we used ordinary solution dyes, but you can move away from this technology a little, because there is another way - painting. To do this, you will need to buy special paint and a very ordinary brush.

When the stone is dry, you can start painting. The surface of the material must be thoroughly wiped and cleared of possible dust deposits. Next, apply paint to the front side. You may need several coats to achieve the desired color, but remember that you can only re-paint after the previous coat has dried.

DIY artificial stone (video)

Making wild stone: master class

We specifically left this point for last, since we think it is the most interesting and unusual. The production method is slightly different from the standard one, but it is closest to home conditions.

So, to prepare the solution, we need to take LITOKOL tile adhesive, ordinary black grout for joints, and also pigment for coloring.

Now mix the glue so that there are no lumps left, but make the mixture thick, divide it into three equal parts. We add pigment to one part, dark tile grout to another, and leave the third part in its “native” color.

We lay out the mixtures chaotically on a flat surface, scatter them in pieces to get an unusual torn pattern.

We slightly press the entire mixture over the surface of the sheet on which it is laid, obtaining the required thickness.

We sprinkle the surface with sea salt or any other similar material to make the surface of our stone as unique as possible, to make it truly exclusive.

Cover the entire mixture with plastic wrap, take a very ordinary rolling pin and roll the mixture, leveling the surface and pressing the top sprinkle into the layer.

We move on to molding, which can be done with anything - a wooden plank, a ruler, and so on. We choose standard or chaotic sizes, we work according to our own convenience.

After molding, we remove the film and leave our beauty until the next day - 12 hours is enough for drying.

The next day, divide the stones and wash off the salt from the surface with running water, if you want to get original gouges on the surface. If not, there is a solution to cover the product with artificial varnish to obtain surface protection.

As you can see, as a result we received a rather interesting material that is suitable for cladding a wide variety of surfaces. It is really cheaper than on the market or in a store, and you can verify this very simply - calculate the required volume of materials to produce the required amount of stone. It seems to us that for country house construction this is a fairly high-quality and affordable technology. For those interested in natural materials, it will be useful.

Homemade stone production (video)

Making artificial stone yourself, for your own needs or even for sale - a great idea for every summer resident. We will be happy to hear your comments, suggestions or even recipes, which can be left under the article.

Using unnatural stone in a summer cottage (20 photos)

Artificial stone (IR) has been produced since ancient times. Even the usual brick is also considered artificial stone. Today, IR is recognized as the best finishing material, this is confirmed by specialist designers in the field of landscape design and craftsmen involved in exterior and interior decoration.

The use of artificial stone at home is gaining popularity. Decorative stones on the wall of the hall or hallway add special chic to the interior. Imitation stone for home decoration not only looks beautiful, but also demonstrates the high status and good taste of its owner.

Today, creating an artificial stone with your own hands is not so difficult. But it would be nice to start with having an idea of ​​its types.

Types of artificial stone

Based on the initial components and creation methods, the most common types of IR are:

Let's look at the technology for making artificial stone with your own hands.

Equipment and materials

To create an IR on your own, you need special materials and technical equipment:

1. . Processing artificial stone without it will not work;
2. (irrelevant if you are using a ready-made form);
3. Separation solution. It is necessary to cover the model when creating the mold and the mold itself before casting the product. Thanks to it, products and forms do not stick to each other;
4. Casting molds. You can make them yourself or use ready-made ones;
5. Casting mixtures (compounds) and resins for artificial stone;
6. Pigment set.Thanks to them you can get a stone of any color;
7. Sand cushion tray. It is necessary for independent silicone molds;
8. Thermal gun. Necessary for final molding and welding of acrylic elements.

Please note that elements made from liquid stones are not suitable for vibration processing during curing. They cannot be placed on a vibration stand; they may spread out.

How to make artificial stone with your own hands, where to start? The vibration stand is the basis of all production and a guarantee of the quality of the final product. It is designed for compacting solutions and mixtures. You can make a vibration stand yourself. The main rule is that there should be a horizontal oscillation on such platforms.

Vibrators here can be any electric motors with a modest power: 31-50 W per 1 m2 of the entire working platform. It is recommended to place 2-4 motors at the corners of the platform. If only one is used, then its position is the center. The best positions for a tray with molds are on the sides.

To power the motors you need a rheostat. This way you can control the strength of vibration.

Eccentrics are attached to the motor shafts. Here, rod elements bent in the shape of the letter U will work. They are tightened with screws. Optimal dynamics of motor rotation: 600-2800 rpm. A lower value will separate the mixture. Anything more and you won’t get the required vibration.

Vibrators need to be pulled tightly to the platform using steel screws and bands. To create a platform you need a layered material. Its thickness: 0.8 - 2 cm. Usually plywood, getinax or fiberglass are used.

To attach the pallets with forms to the platform you will need self-tapping screws. Use the same springs, wide and stiff. Under the pressure of the platform, they must compress by a maximum of one-fifth of their length. The shape of the springs is cylinder. They are made of wire of equal cross-section. Their installation step according to the platform parameters (width and length) is as follows: 30-60 cm. If your platform is 1 x 1 m, then you need 9 units of springs.

In the platform itself and the base of the stand, holes are placed under the ends of the springs. They prevent the platform from slipping. Between the springs you can insert several gasket components made of dense foam rubber. They will dampen harmful overtones.

We have reviewed the instructions for making a vibration stand with your own hands. He suitable for making any artificial stone at home- and acrylic, and concrete, and gypsum stone.

If you are planning to do vibrating table for making stone from gypsum, that is, a simpler option. Watch the video:

How to adjust a vibration stand

For this purpose, you need to place a tray with filled forms on the stand (provided the vibrators are turned off) and attach it. Using a bubble level, you need to check and set the horizontal position of the form. Chassis adjustment screws are used for this alignment.

Then a faience saucer is placed on the molds. On it is a ball with D = 5-6 mm. The minimum value of the vibrators is set. They turn on. Their power gradually increases. The ball should bounce. The power is carefully reduced. The ball should just run around this dish.

Models for making molds

People often ask what models are made of and where to get them. It's simple. Here, natural or ready-made industrial IR of suitable shape and size is used. You can also use simple clay from ravines.

For volumetric products, the clay must be kneaded until it reaches the consistency of plasticine. The model should not crack when drying. Therefore, it is molded on a wooden, cardboard or plastic block. It is supplied with plasticine. The clay thickness should be 6-12 mm. Then it dries for 2-5 days. You can use a low-power infrared lamp to speed up drying.

Casting molds

The most common types:

• Disposable. Made from lost wax clay. They are used in the art casting process;
• Polyurethane industrial. Application: small production. Durable. They require decent expenses;
• Self-made silicone and polyurethane. Application: home crafts and piece production.

How to make a mold at home - watch the video:

Casting mixtures

To make high-quality artificial stone, you will need to follow the recipe for the appropriate mixture. If the production technology is violated, you risk not obtaining the expected properties of the material, namely strength and wear resistance.

When it is necessary to create gypsum stone, the mixture for it is prepared in small doses, literally for 1-3 (4) products. She lives for about 10 minutes. The composition is poured into the mold within three minutes from the start of the batch. The mixture consists of:

1. Plaster;
2. Citric acid. Its share of the mass of gypsum is 0.3%. This acid slows down hardening;
3. Water. Its share of the volume of gypsum is 0.8 for the initial layer. For the main array - 0.6;
4. Pigment. Share of gypsum weight: 2-6%.

Mix for concrete stone

When working on concrete stone (it is also called cement stone), a cement-sand composition is prepared:

1. Cement – ​​3 lobes;
2. Sand – 1 share;
3. Pigment: 2-6% by weight of cement.

To create acrylic stone, acrylic resin is used, into which a hardener and filler are introduced. Proportions:

1. Acrylic resin with added hardener - 1 share.
2. Mineral filler with added pigment – ​​3 parts.
3. Pigment: 2-6% by weight of the filler.

Fillers for artificial stone are stone chips. Most often, granite, quartz, marble chips or screenings are used (the screenings are smaller, and the crumbs are larger in size). Gravel can also be used. Any option Before use, thoroughly washed and calcined.

Preparation of the mixture (compound):

• The filler (stone chips) is thoroughly washed in water using liquid detergent, then calcined and washed again with clean water;
• The pigment is embedded in the pure filler;
• The resin is mixed with the hardener (according to the instructions, for example, 5:1);
• Filler is introduced into it (no more than 3 shares, i.e. 75%);
• All this is mixed.

This mixture lasts for 15-20 minutes. It takes 30-40 minutes for it to set. The interval of readiness for use is 24 hours.

Mixture for liquid stone (LC)

The ingredients for creating LCDs are quite expensive. Therefore, in order to save money, a front and primer composition is used.

The primer consists of:

• Gelcoat – 20%;
• Microcalcite – 73%;
• Substances for hardening – 1%;
• Accelerating substance – 6%.

The facial is formed from:

• Gelcoat – 40%;
  Substances for hardening – 1%;
  Accelerating substance – 6%;
  Filler with pigment – ​​53%.

First the primer is applied, then the topcoat. The mixture lasts for 15-20 minutes. It sets in 30-40 minutes. Readiness -24 hours.

When working on IR, synthetic and natural (mineral) pigments are used. They can be:

• Dry in powder form. Incorporated into dry filler;
• In the form of a paste. Injected using a syringe at the end of mixing;
• Liquid. They are introduced into the batch;

Separators

In work on gypsum IR A mixture of wax and turpentine is used in a ratio of 1:7. To obtain a solution, wax shavings are added to turpentine in small doses, and it must be stirred constantly. Then the resulting solution is brought to a temperature of 50-60 degrees in a water bath.

For concrete IR It is recommended to use lubricants such as lithol and emulsol as a separator. You can also use talc or treat the molds with a mixture of liquid detergent and water (1:5 ratio).

Sand cushion

The volumetric silicone mold can be deformed from vibrations and high temperatures. Therefore her Before casting begins, it is placed deep in fine sand.. Requirements for it: dryness and cleanliness. It is poured onto a pallet. Share: two thirds or three quarters.

It resembles a small hair dryer. Delivers a thin but powerful stream of heated air. His tasks:

• Weld finished elements from acrylic IR;
• Assembling plastic frames when creating silicone molds.

Fill

During the mold casting process, the vibration stand must be turned off.

There are two stages in casting - the starting stage and the base stage. In order to save money, appropriate mixtures are prepared. The starting (face) mixture is liquid, the base mixture is thicker, according to the proportions indicated above (in the section Mixtures for casting).

When filling simple flat forms, you need to use a facial (liquid) composition.

For forms with relief, the facial composition is first applied with a brush. It perfectly envelops the surface of the mold. After it hardens, the base composition is added.

Pouring plaster

The starting composition is liquid. Basic - sour cream standards. As soon as the solution begins to set, it will be necessary to draw grooves. This is important for subsequent fastening of gypsum stone to any surface. After the gypsum stone is ready and you remove it from the mold, do not forget treat with heated vegetable oil(to do this, heat it in a water bath). This will close the pores and increase the wear resistance of the stone.

Pouring concrete

The cement-sand composition for concrete is diluted liquid. After hardening, add the base composition using the following technology:

1. The form is filled halfway. A reinforcing lattice made of plastic is laid down; it does not reach the edges of the mold;
2. The form is filled to the brim and leveled with a spatula.

When the solution begins to harden, do not forget to draw grooves.

Pouring acrylic stone

In the front (starting) composition, the part of resin with hardener increases, and the percentage of filler with pigment decreases to 50-60%. The result is a more liquid mixture that is easy to apply to the mold. After it hardens, the base composition is added to the mold. It uses microcalcite (without pigment) as a filler. It allows you to convey all the beauty of the facial composition.

To level the acrylic after pouring, you will need a spatula, preferably made of polished metal. It must be low fat. As soon as the acrylic hardens, we make grooves in it.

Pouring liquid stone

LCD can be applied to a product in two ways:

• Spraying is cheaper, because... a layer of several millimeters is applied. You will need a compressor and a sprayer.
• Direct or reverse envelopment.

Watch the video for spraying liquid stone technology:

Enveloping:

• Direct application: the base made of MDF, wood, fiberboard or chipboard is first primed, layer thickness 3-4 mm. Next, the base is covered with a facial composition. The disadvantage of this method of producing artificial stone is the roughness of the surface (the degree of roughness depends on the size of the filler fraction). For further use of the product additional sanding and polishing will be required.
• Reverse application: you will need a matrix with a crystal smooth surface. A separator is applied to it, followed by a compound. A board is placed on top and everything is pressed down with weights. This is how countertops are made. This method does not require additional grinding, because a smooth surface is obtained.

Video: Making artificial stone at home

We looked at the most popular types of making artificial stone with your own hands. Now you know how to make stone for interior decoration, what material is best to use for wall decoration, and how to make decorative stones for the wall yourself. As you can see, everything is not so complicated. Which method to choose for yourself is up to you, you have the IR production technology. Plaster and acrylic are suitable for interior work, and moisture-resistant concrete for exterior work.

In the next article we will look at a more exotic technology for making artificial stone - from polyurethane foam, from egg trays and from polystyrene foam with your own hands. We’ll also figure out what boulders and blocks can be made from, and how to revive the landscape.

Don't be afraid to experiment, beautiful interiors for you!

In terms of mechanical resistance, color range and variety of surface textures, artificial stone is in no way inferior to natural stone, surpassing it in ease of processing and ease of finishing.

Key advantages of artificial stone:

• unlike natural material, artificial stone can be made into thin tiles, which reduces the weight and cost of products while maintaining the necessary strength;
• even at home, such a stone can be produced in the desired shape for a specific application site without additional adjustment;
• artificial stones can be immediately made perfectly smooth without such expensive procedures as sawing, grinding and polishing;
• there is no need to transport the material, since it can be produced directly at the site of use.

Types of artificial stone

One of the main advantages of this material is the ability to produce it with a surface and texture that imitates any natural stone.

The shapes of artificial stones are:

• chipped - with an uneven surface and edges;
• sawn - with smooth, even edges;
• rubble, similar to ordinary boulders;
• arbitrary, embodying any fantasies of the master;
• decorative.

Depending on the purpose of use, artificial stone can be made from several types of materials. For interior decoration, plaster and acrylic are used. For exterior work, the most suitable material is cement, which is resistant to moisture and temperature changes.

In terms of cost, the most expensive is acrylic stone, followed by gypsum products, and the most economical material is cement. To make the stone more durable and save the main raw materials, sand, small crushed stone, marble chips or fiber are added to the pouring mixture, which prevents cracking of the finished products.

Plasticizers help improve the physical characteristics of stone. These substances reduce the volume of water in the mixture and increase its density.

Depending on the source material and methods of its processing, the following types of artificial stone can be made at home:

• molded gypsum - due to low frost resistance, it is suitable only for interior work, and the temperature in the room during its production must be at least +18°C;
• concrete (cement-sand) molded - frost-resistant, during production the temperature in the room can be +12 ° C and higher;
• reinforced concrete of any shape - usually made piece by piece directly at the site of use (artificial boulders, cobblestones or slabs).

Molds for making stone

To produce artificial stone at home, you will need a mold and a casting mixture. You can either buy a ready-made form or make it yourself.

Ready-made matrices are made of polyurethane and silicone. They usually already come with plasticizers, pigments and fiberglass. Such forms are produced for the production of decorative material of various sizes and thicknesses with imitation of any natural or artificial stone - slate, brick, cobblestone, sandstone or rock.

The choice of shape depends on the area of ​​the object and the available budget. Polyurethane matrices are expensive and are designed to produce several hundred high-quality impressions. The silicone mold is more budget-friendly, but with its help you can make no more than 20-30 products.

Making your own mold

First of all, you need formwork. This structure is best made from boards or plywood. The frame must be connected so that there is not a single gap left. The formwork should be 3 cm higher and 1 cm wider than the original stone sample.

Any lubricant, for example, grease, is generously applied to the bottom and walls of the frame. After this, a sample stone is placed in the formwork, which is also generously coated with lubricant. This procedure is necessary so that the finished form can easily move away from the original stone and frame.

At home, the mold is made from silicone sealant. In this case, you can use the cheapest silicone. Squeeze it inside the formwork in a spiral, starting from the center and moving towards the walls until it is filled.

To avoid bubbles, the silicone must be carefully smoothed with a wide paint brush. The brush is first dipped in a solution of dishwashing detergent. An ordinary soap solution will not work, since due to the alkaline environment it can change the properties of acidic silicone.

After filling the formwork with silicone, it is recommended to smooth the surface of the future form with a spatula soaked in the same detergent.

Dry the mold at room temperature in a well-ventilated area. Drying time - 15 days. After this time has expired, the structure can be disassembled and a stone sample can be removed from it.

The output is convenient silicone molds, which are ideal for making artificial stone at home. If there are cracks or other irregularities on the surface of the mold, carefully fill them with silicone.

How to paint artificial stone

To give the stone the desired color, add a coloring pigment to the solution when mixing it. For these purposes, it is the pigment (iron oxide inorganic dye) that is needed, and not the color for paints.

The pigment colors can be mixed with each other to create the desired shade. The amount of pigment is determined in practice. It will be possible to find out exactly what color the final product will be only after the stone has completely dried.

The dye can be applied directly to the silicone mold before pouring the mixture. It is better to paint over the form not entirely, but in fragments. This will give the casts an individual design and help create a better imitation of natural stone.

Creation of artificial stone from gypsum

Most often, artificial stones are made from gypsum at home. For this technology you will need the following materials:

• white plaster;
• river sand;
• warm water;
• large plastic container;
• pallet;
• ready-made form;
• corrugated glass;
• water-based dyes.

In addition, you need to prepare your workplace. To make artificial stone from gypsum, you do not need a large area. Just a few square meters will be enough. It is important that all the necessary racks and shelves are at hand.

Instructions:

1. Prepare the required volume of solution equal to the number of molds. The gypsum hardens quickly, so it cannot be left until the next pouring procedure.
2. Add water to a plastic container and pour plaster into it. The solution should be thick. To increase the density of the material, you can add sand to the mixture in a ratio of 1 to 10.
3. Grease the bottom and sides of the mold with wax and turpentine. This measure will make it easier to remove the frozen stone from the mold.
4. Pour the gypsum solution into the mold. Using a spatula, carefully level the surface of the future stone.
5. For maximum uniform installation, it is recommended to cover the molds with long corrugated glass and subject the workpieces to light vibration for two minutes.
6. The plaster hardens in about 20 minutes. After this, the glass can be removed and the casts can be removed from the molds. The resulting products are dried in the open air.
7. When the stones are completely dry, they need to be painted. Don't forget to remove dust and other debris from the surface first. After this, use a brush to evenly distribute the dye over the surface of the stones.

Artificial stone made of cement

Artificial stones for external use are usually made from cement. This material is much cheaper than gypsum, but the strength of products made from it is an order of magnitude higher.

To make cement stones at home, you will need the following materials and tools:

• cement;
• warm water;
• putty knife;
• container for mixing the solution;
• fine sifted sand;
• separation composition;
• ready-made forms;
• reinforcing mesh;
• coloring pigments and brushes.

Manufacturing technology:

1. Mix cement and sand in a ratio of 3 to 1. Add to them the coloring pigment necessary to create the desired shade.
2. Slowly pour water into the resulting mixture until the solution acquires the consistency of thick sour cream.
3. Fill the molds halfway with the mixture, then shake them thoroughly to compact the cement.
4. To increase the strength of future products, place a reinforcing mesh on top and fill the molds with mortar to the very top.
5. After completing the filling procedure, draw several lines on top with a stack or nail to create shallow grooves. This measure will help improve the adhesion of future stones to the application surface.
6. The stones are removed from the molds 12 hours after pouring and dried for two weeks. After removing the impressions, do not forget to thoroughly rinse the molds to remove cement residues.

If the coloring components were not added to the mixture before pouring it into the molds, the stones can be painted after they have completely dried. Before painting, be sure to clean the surface of the casts from dust and debris. Apply paint evenly to the surface of the stones, creating the desired pattern, and let the product dry.