You can attach a small photo frame or plywood shelf to a plasterboard sheet using a regular screw or self-tapping screw. However, fastening heavier structures requires the mandatory use of one of the existing types of plasterboard dowels.
How to choose dowels for drywall sheets, so that you can find the same compromise in both price and quality?
There are many types of fasteners used when installing drywall products. But it is important to choose the most appropriate products for a particular case. In addition, you should know the rules for installing the described fastening elements, which will ensure the reliability and durability of the structure being formed.
The dowel used for fastening gypsum plasterboard products must meet a number of requirements:
- have an anti-corrosion coating;
- be made of high-quality and high-strength metal;
- The spacer elements of the part must ensure high-quality fixation of the plasterboard base to the base surface of the building.
All drywall dowels are distinguished by the fact that they are made according to the harpoon expansion principle, which ensures strong and reliable fastening.
There are two main groups of drywall dowels:
- checkpoints;
- unclenching.
Walk-throughs are very convenient for mounting on the ceiling. They are most often used for installing massive chandeliers, interior spotlights and sports equipment. The spring pass-through dowel consists of a threaded metal rod, folding locking wings and a spring mechanism. In the void on the inside of the plasterboard structure, a spring mechanism opens the locking hook-wings, thereby creating a reliable fastening.
The end of a spring drywall anchor can be made in the form of a ring, half ring, screw or rod. The required type of tip is selected based on the type of object that needs to be attached (for example, a tip in the shape of a ring is usually used when attaching electrical wires, and a tip in the shape of a half ring of a hook is used for hanging various lighting equipment). The spring dowel is ideal for installing elements to plasterboard walls lined with tiles. To decide which type of fasteners of the described type is suitable for your design, it is worth taking a closer look at the advantages and features of the use of each type of dowel.
Dowel molly
The molly dowel definitely cannot be classified as a cheap fastener; the price for it is really high, but there is no doubt about the quality.
How the molly dowel works:
- Under this dowel, a hole with an eight-millimeter diameter is made with a drill;
- After this, the molly is inserted into the gypsum board, the two-pronged side is pressed tightly against the sheet, which helps prevent the anchor from twisting during the fixation stage;
- Then, using a screwdriver that comes with the molly dowel, the structure is pressed against the sheet along the internal thread.
It should be noted that the central part of the sleeve is twisted, which ensures reliable fixation of the molly in the drywall. The rivet will be in place.
Advantages of molly:
- Ability to withstand fairly high loads;
- There is an option for dismantling if necessary;
Molly screws come in one set with dowels.
Driva
Driva is one of the most popular types of fasteners. Driva is available in two types - plastic and metal.
Driva plastic dowels are purchased more often, and there are more of them on sale.
How to attach a doweldriva:
- Drill a 6mm hole;
- Insert the dowel;
- Using a cross bit, cut it into the gypsum board like a standard self-tapping screw;
- After this, screw a screw or self-tapping screw with a diameter of 3.5 or 4.5 mm into the internal cross-shaped slot of the driva dowel.
That's all. The only difficulty that can arise is in selecting the right screw. When choosing a self-tapping screw, keep in mind that driva has a length of 23 mm (plastic) and 33-44 mm (metal).
For the price, such dowels for any drywall look very attractive, and what else distinguishes the dowel is that it does not require free space within the sheet.
It remains to mention one more well-known brand of fasteners - fischer.
Fischer p.d.
Otherwise, fischer pd is called a butterfly dowel. This is a little erroneous, since butterfly dowels for plasterboard are also produced by other manufacturers, but it is fischer pd that is more associated with this type of dowel for plasterboard sheets.
The fischer pd consists of a plastic base, that is, a butterfly into which a screw is screwed. During installation, the butterfly is pressed against the joint and tightly adheres to the screw. Thus, the element is protected from falling out.
Fischer pd is not difficult to install, and the price is quite attractive. Fischer is one of the most popular fastening brands.
Dowel nail
The most popular and widely known expansion dowel-nail is used to fasten the product to a concrete base. The spacer part of this dowel is nylon and consists of three sections. In the tail part there is a passage hole, which facilitates screwing and ensures sufficient axial travel of the screw. The dowel is held securely due to the expansion of its walls in three directions at once.
The product is used for through installation:
- cornices;
- window frames;
- door frames;
- slats;
- skirting boards and other products.
Steel dowels for shooting are used when installing heavy structures, carried out with a special dowel mounting gun.
This type of fastener described, along with dowel-screw, dowel-mungo, dowel-bolt, anchor-dowel and other fasteners, is used quite rarely for installing plasterboard sheathing. Experts justify this by the fact that the spacer element does not provide a sufficient level of fixation of the base of the wall to the gypsum board.
Self-tapping screw
The self-tapping dowel used for installing gypsum boards can be:
- nylon (TT22 grade);
- metal (DRIVA).
Such dowels are used for attaching necessary items to multi-layer or single-layer plasterboard sheets that have an insulating or decorative coating on the inside. They vary in size. When selecting the desired parameter, pay attention to the fact that the fastening element is not too long - it should not stick out from the other side of the hull layer.
Such parts are especially suitable for working with durable gypsum fiber material. Self-tapping screws are also indispensable for screwing any heavy object to a plasterboard wall. In order to do this, you simply need to tighten the self-tapping screw in a pre-marked place using a screwdriver or screwdriver. Typically, the fastening element can be screwed into gypsum boards of any thickness without any problems.
If the sheet thickness is greater than 15 mm, a hole must be drilled before screwing in the self-tapping screw.
"Butterfly"
The dowel, called the “butterfly”, has a universal purpose. This is a part that, when screwed into the back side of the sheet, forms a kind of drop-down stop that can withstand a significant load while providing maximum expansion. To prevent the dowel from turning, it is equipped with a special cuff. Before installing the butterfly dowel, you will need to pre-drill the mounting hole.
When planning to use a butterfly dowel, keep in mind that the thickness of the product being fastened should not exceed 5 mm.
"Umbrella"
As the name of this dowel suggests, it works on the principle of a real umbrella, that is, it opens in the space behind the stove, thereby providing a reliable support. The umbrella dowel will also require pre-drilling a hole before installation. It is great for GC ceilings. For example, when installing a heavy chandelier, the stops opened in the space behind the sheet will evenly distribute the load over a large area.
To make it more convenient to work with dowels of this type, it is necessary to use auxiliary tools, for example, special pliers.
Dowel with drill for drywall
You can also find a dowel for any drywall with a drill at the end. This is a self-tapping screw that is designed to be screwed into the material.
It is better to attach this type of plasterboard dowels to single-layer and multi-layer slabs of material, if there is an insulating or decorative coating on the inside of the partition. The length of such dowels for drywall should not extend beyond the other side of the partition.
For double drywall
The above dowel is suitable just for double drywall. Double plasterboard is used in structures of particular strength or structures that must be well soundproofed.
Dowels for such drywall must be strong, reliable, and rigidly fixed in the material.
Screw
Dowel-nails, as they are commonly called, consist of an expansion dowel and a nail with a screw thread. They are often used for ceiling hollow structures.
Dowel nails for drywall should be screwed in well, but not twisted, so compare the size and complexity of the work.
Metal
The metal dowel is usually made of zinc alloy. In terms of price, it is almost always more expensive than its plastic counterpart, but this is understandable - metal screws are stronger, less likely to deform during fixation, and last longer.
In bulky structures, it makes more sense to use metal fasteners, while small or lightweight structures can easily be assembled using plastic parts.
How to attach a spring dowel
A dowel with wings folded together is inserted into the drilled hole. The built-in spring should spread the wings of the dowel as soon as they reach the void.
The wings perfectly fix the structure, and the screw can be secured with a screwdriver or screwdriver. This dowel is often used to hang a chandelier.
Chemical anchors
Such drywall anchors are not subject to stress when fixed into the material.
A chemical anchor is a capsule or cartridge with an adhesive mixture. When you begin to attach the anchor, the capsule is crushed and its composition is mixed. A chemical reaction occurs and a monolithic fastening is formed. This anchor is complemented by a mesh sleeve, which makes the fastening super-strong.
Installation Features
Even a novice master can screw a dowel into a gypsum board. To do this, it is enough to know a number of simple rules:
- The hole in the drywall drilled for the umbrella dowel and any other type of dowel fastener must be larger than the diameter of the part itself, otherwise the sheet may be damaged during the installation process.
- If you use an electric screwdriver when installing a dowel, try to prevent the fastener from turning in place at the end point - this may negatively affect its tightness. To do this, you need to tighten the part not completely. It is better to do the final turns manually or with a cordless screwdriver with the necessary settings.
- After the umbrella dowel is inserted and the required item is attached, the hole around the fastener can be covered with acrylic (if the distance is large, then also with putty). Acrylic has a rubber base - this will help reduce the fastening pressure on the gypsum board.
In order for the butterfly dowel to be securely fastened, you must first drill a hole of the required diameter, then firmly press the folding wings of the part with your hand and carefully insert it inside the hole. The spring dowel can be screwed to the desired position using a regular screwdriver or screwdriver.
Fasteners are presented today in a wide range, and the price variety is also attractive. The choice of dowels depends on the complexity of the design, its functionality and ease of installation.
When renovating an apartment, you often have to make various holes in the walls. They are necessary for attaching hanging furniture, paintings, mirrors and framed photographs. Today you will learn how you can drill a hole in solid material yourself.
The standard fastening consists of two elements: a plastic dowel and a metal screw. Both did complement each other, since the metal rod itself will not hold in the hole. It must be screwed into a softer material - plastic.
Drilling a hole begins with marking. Select a suitable place on the surface and mark a cross with a pencil. Make it visible so you don't lose sight of it later.
To prevent dust from scattering throughout the apartment, make a bag from a sheet of thick paper. Attach a homemade container for collecting concrete chips to the wall using masking or regular tape. The bag is secured a couple of centimeters below the pencil mark. During the drilling process, most of the dust will settle into the previously prepared device.
The main stage of work consists of drilling a hole. Here you will need a hammer drill equipped with a drill of a suitable diameter. If the wall is brick, the hammer drill can be replaced with a less powerful drill.
Place the tool strictly perpendicular to the wall and drill the hole to the desired depth. A shallow hole will not allow complete drowning dowel in the thickness of the material. Deep is also not advisable, since the plastic cuff that acts as a limiter may accidentally tear when driven in and the fasteners will fail too much.
At the final stage, you need to carefully hammer the dowel into the wall almost flush with the wall. Next, a self-tapping screw is screwed into it so that the desired item can be hung on it.
The question of how to hammer a nail correctly, it would seem, should not arise for anyone. But this matter also has its own tricks and nuances, without which you can bend nails for a long time and persistently and hit yourself on the fingers.
Let's reveal a few secrets and establish a simple procedure for the necessary actions.
Step-by-step instruction.
1. Before driving a nail, check whether it is in “working” condition: there are no kinks or bends, or rust. If any, measures should be taken to eliminate these shortcomings.
The bent nail must be leveled with hammer blows, and the rust must be removed so that it does not subsequently spoil the surface into which the nail is planned to be hammered.
If your nail is up to 4 cm long, then choose a hammer weighing 250 g. Larger nails require a tool that is twice as heavy as the previous one. Five hundred gram hammers are considered universal, due to which they are widely distributed in relevant stores.
There are hammers weighing 1 kg. Such assistants are good for driving nails and dowels longer than 8 cm. We also note that with the help of a correctly selected hammer, the nail will penetrate dried wood better and faster (if, for example, this is what we are talking about).
3. Now you can begin the process itself.
- If you are right-handed (for a left-handed person the actions will be similar, just with the other hand), then take the nail in your left hand and place its sharp end perpendicular to the work surface.
- Take a hammer in your right hand.
Using the hammer, apply gentle blows to the head of the nail so that it enters the desired surface a quarter of its length.
- Please note that your movements and, accordingly, the movement of the hammer should be carried out along a trajectory, the end of which should be a continuation of the nail.
“Curved” blows will lead to damage not only to the nail but, possibly, to the material as well.
- Apply confident, strong blows (and perhaps even a blow) to the head of the nail until it is completely “sunk” into the material.
The key here is confidence and accuracy.
How to hammer a nail into a concrete wall
And do not try to immediately move your left hand to the side after the nail has only slightly entered the material. This instinct of self-preservation can affect the curvature of the nail and its incorrect driving.
Some useful tips that will allow beginners not to falter when hammering nails.
- Use a clothespin as a safety net and anchor.
By fixing it at the base of the nail you are driving, you will protect your fingers from possible blows to them and at the same time will not leave the nail in a shaky position.
- Lubricate the tip of the nail with soap or wax. This will greatly simplify the work.
- If you need to drive a nail into a wall with wallpaper, mark the place where it will be driven in with a cross in advance and make a small cut there with a blade.
Then carefully move the corners of the wallpaper apart, install the fastener and then re-glue the wallpaper, covering the joints with the nail.
- Don't drive too many nails in one line into the wood.
It can crack easily.
Fastening nails are one of the fastening elements. It is used to install various structures (in solid and solid substrates). They are often used to secure stone, concrete and brick surfaces.
When using this element, builders receive a strong, permanent connection.
Dowel nails vary in type (use) as well as size.
How to put a nail in a concrete wall
For example, a nail fastener is a consumable item for a specialized gun. This type of nail helps to master the fastening of metal structures through the construction of industrial buildings. Blue nail can make the structure permanent and long lasting.
Let's look at the types, sizes of dowel nails and their uses.
Types, size of dowels.
Together there are two main types of nails.
The first is the manual installation setup.
Thus, this type of fastener can be hammered in with a regular hammer. This element has the appearance of a metal nail, in the shell of which there is a specialized separating element. This results in a reliable application.
To create this type of nail you will need:
- drill a hole;
- insert the gasket there;
- Calm your nail with a hammer.
It is worth noting that this type of attachment in its structure has a separating element in the form of a special collar, which allows us to secure our positions in the hole, even if the hole is too deep.
Another type of nose nail is for assembling a (construction) gun.
If you use it, there is no need to drill holes, allowing you to quickly install the shaft. The dowel material is high-quality metal. It's like a fatty product with a special drug. The nail tip has an enlarged cap and washer.
The work compression increases with the cage cover, which moves towards the movable washer. Attach the dowel gun in one shot.
There are other types of nails.
One of the most popular is stainless steel. This option is much more economical than others, and in many ways it can be said to be of higher quality.
Depending on the type of structure, there are also other types of fastening nails with their main purpose and size.
Dimensions of nails for dowels by sight.
When determining the type of toe use, you must be clear about what size is appropriate for which shape.
For example, a size of 6x40 or six for the first number is ideal for fixing the profile. At the same time, we must not forget that cinder blocks are needed to join this size if you want to install as a wall clamp. If you choose other sizes of dowel nails, your fastener will have to stick to the wall and fit into the hole.
The second nail size is used only for efficient home use.
It can be from 6 to 60 or from 6 to 80. It is recommended for use in homes where the walls and ceilings are free of cavities. By choosing these sizes, no problems with entrances falling through will occur, and are firmly fixed to the wall or ceiling.
For manual use of the dowel, the depth parameter must be taken into account.
For example, a dowel ranging in size from 5 to 50 does not allow the drilling depth to exceed 60 millimeters. In this case, you must take into account the maximum load, the thickness of the material to be fixed.
Determining the required sizes of nails and dowels is quite simple.
The code indicates that the first number is the diameter of the attachment and the other is the length. If you know exactly what you will be using with the dowels, you can know exactly what you need.
Today the industry produces larger sizes of stud nails: 5h25, 5X30, 5x40, 6h35, 6x40, 6h50, 6h60, 6h70, 6h80, 8h50, 8h60, 8h80, 8h100, 8h120, 8h140, 10h80, 00, 10h120 , 10h140, 10h160 , In this case, each of the presented sizes has a maximum load. We must not forget the thickness of the material to be attached, and the parameter called length is very useful.
Dowels for concrete and brick: parameters and installation nuances
How to hammer a dowel into a nail: what are the nuances?
Before hammering in a dowel-nail, you need to choose the right place for its installation. If it is brickwork, then it is not advisable to fasten it into the seams between the bricks, where the dowel-nail may not hold tightly enough. Also, before drilling into a wall, you need to make sure that there is no electrical wiring or metal fittings in this place.
To correctly drive a dowel-nail, you need to use a hammer drill or a drill to drill a hole of the same diameter as the dowel-nail.
It is better to start drilling at low speeds so as not to “break” the hole larger than we need. Remove all construction dust from the hole, insert the end of the dowel into it and carefully hammer it to its full length. The limiting cuff will not allow the dowel to fall into the hole. After this you can hammer in the nail.
If suddenly the hole comes out with a larger diameter than necessary, then you can fix it as follows: fill the hole with mounting foam, hammer a dowel into it, wait until the foam dries, hammer in a nail and cut off the remaining foam.
How to hammer a dowel nail. Using a hammer drill or drill.
In such cases, you can also use plaster instead of foam.
There are not very many nuances, but they are there. First of all, you need to decide on the correct length of such a dowel; for example, if it goes through a mounting rail, then you need to take into account its thickness.
Secondly, you need to understand what material the wall is made of, where the dowel will be driven in.
If it is a plaster wall, then you need to drill without impact; the hammer drill makes the hole a little larger and the dowel-nail will not “fit” tightly.
A concrete wall can be drilled with a blow, otherwise you simply will not make a hole. A cauldron without impact, a brick, you need to try without impact, or switch to a hammer drill at the very beginning, after the drill has gone in a little, turn off the impact.
The depth of the hole must correspond to the length of the dowel; if it is shorter, it simply will not fit into the wall, even into plaster (the material used for these dowels is too soft).
The diameter of the drill must correspond to the diameter of the dowel, for example, a six dowel and a drill are the same, no more and no less.
And lastly, I screw the screw onto the dowel, but before hammering it in, I don’t screw it in completely, thereby strengthening the plastic part of the dowel-nail. The diameter of the hole of the object that is planned to be fastened with a dowel-nail must also correspond to the diameter of the dowel-nail (so that the dowel fits into it easily).
It is not difficult to secure with a dowel. You need to drill a hole of suitable diameter, insert a dowel into it, then hammer a nail into it or tighten a screw, which will become wedged and strengthened.
But we need a strong fastener... won’t our fastener collapse?
All dowels have different characteristics and are divided into several types. Let’s look at the types of dowels, what to choose and what to use...
What can you see on the counter?
In the store you can find a wide variety of dowel-nail fasteners. However, each of them consists of:
dowel - a coupling that is inserted into the hole and wedged into it;
fastener - a nail or screw that wedges the dowel.
The dowel itself can be made of different materials:
- plastic;
- metal;
- wood.
Wooden
Wooden dowels were used for fastening until recently. It is difficult to make such a dowel, and its reliability, due to changes in wood moisture content, is not high. When fastened, the chops may crack or wrinkle. Pine is mainly used. If you don’t have a store-bought plastic dowel at hand, but need to fasten it, a wooden chopper comes to the rescue.
Metal
Designed for medium and heavy loads. A smooth nail wedges the metal sleeve when impacted, or it is impacted by a self-tapping screw or metric bolt. In any case, the thrust force can be significant. Not recommended for use in fragile materials. Usually a metal dowel gets crushed and is not removable.
Plastic
The most widespread are plastic dowels. But under this general name, different materials can be used. Nowadays, dowels are mainly made from the following materials:
- nylon;
- polyethylene;
- polypropylene;
- polyamide.
Design
Each plastic dowel consists of the following parts.
- The spacer part, which will wedge under the influence of a nail (screw, bolt).
- The non-spacer part is the initial part that expands little.
- The cuff is a widening border at the edge of the u, which does not allow the dowel to sink deeper into the drilled hole, but this is not a necessary element, it may not be there.
- You can also highlight spikes, ribs, grips on the spacer part, which create a greater thrust force at individual points and tight contact with the material.
Universal nylon dowel UX
UX is universal - it can be used in both solid and hollow materials, as well as in slab materials. The principle of operation is tying a knot and spreading.
Fastening is carried out with a screw, for the correct screwing of which there are internal notches. Spikes and locking elements prevent twisting. Widely used in everyday life for small loads, including porous materials.
Spacer SX
Made of plastic, provides four-way expansion. Thus, the pressure distribution is optimal for all materials. The non-expanding part of such dowels is usually quite strong and does not expand, thereby preventing the destruction of the surface, for example, the covering of tiles or plaster on the walls. Usually equipped with a cuff that prevents it from falling through.
In dense materials it provides an average load, so it can be used for hanging cabinets and plumbing fixtures, and outside - for handrails, awnings...
Spacer S
A simple dowel that allows expansion in two directions. The absence of a widening edge at the end allows you to install the product deep in the material, if required, for example, under a thick layer of plaster you need to reach a solid base.
The peculiarity of the application is to adjust the direction of expansion by turning the dowel. Near the edge, it is advisable to direct the pushing forces parallel to the edge, otherwise destruction may occur...
Also, the fastening can withstand significant forces and can be used for shelves, cabinets, mezzanines, canopies, cornices….
Dowel M-S
This is practically the same S dowel, with expansion in two directions, but only with the ability to screw in bolts with metric threads. It can also be installed deep in the material, in the strongest layers, where maximum thrust forces can be achieved using a bolt or pin.
Nylon M
Nylon dowel with brass cone. Specially made for metric threads to create expansion by tightening the bolt. These are powerful structures for significant loads. They are used in dense materials - concrete, natural stone... At the same time, the degree of expansion and crushability is significant - the anchor forgives the flexibility of the material and installation inaccuracies.
Brass MS
Expansion metal dowel - when screwing in a bolt with a metric thread, the nose part expands and collapses. It is used in hard materials, primarily concrete. Designed for significant loads, for hanging a boiler, for example.
Dowel FMD
A metal spacer dowel with metal teeth in the spacer part is specially designed for wood screws instead of bolts, which reduces the cost of fastening. It is used where many such dowels are required, primarily for hanging water and gas pipes on concrete.
For aerated concrete GB
Plastic dowel for porous materials. Spiral-shaped ribs provide better pressure redistribution and the greatest load on the fastener. Made for wood screws. It is used in porous concrete with a compressive strength of 2 – 4 N/mm2. For external use, as for other products, it is recommended to use an A4 stainless steel screw.
Materials characterized by a dense structure and high hardness, which include concrete, brick, natural and artificial stone, are actively used not only in the construction industry, but also in repair work. That is why the question of which dowels to choose for concrete and other solid materials in order to securely fasten various objects to building structures is very relevant.
The fastening element, which will be constantly under load during operation, must be correctly selected not only in its dimensions, but also in other parameters. Only in this case will it be able to ensure high reliability and durability of the formed connection.
What is a classic dowel?
The classic dowel for concrete and other solid materials has been preferred by specialists in the field of construction and repair for a long time. Consumers often call it a “dowel-nail.” Concrete fasteners can be made of metal, nylon and various types of plastic. Naturally, products made from different materials differ in their characteristics and, accordingly, in their area of application.
The load-bearing capacity of a dowel on concrete is determined by its design features. In the classic design, a dowel-nail is a sleeve, the entire outer surface of which has special notches that prevent such an element from turning in a hole in a wall or in any other building structure. Special whiskers, which, due to their elasticity, are constantly in a decompressed state, help prevent the fastening element from being pulled out of the wall. When a screw is screwed in, the fastening element expands due to longitudinal slots on its surface, which ensures high reliability of its fixation.
Parameters of dowel-nails with a mushroom-shaped edge used for through installation (click to enlarge)
In addition to dowel fasteners, which operate on a mechanical principle, the modern market offers dowels for porous concrete and other similar materials, fixed in the holes through the use of a special adhesive composition. By filling the internal cavities of the porous material, the adhesive composition reliably fixes such an anchor element in a previously prepared hole.
The classic dowel-nail intended for concrete is such a universal fastener that it is quite difficult to list all the areas of its application. With its help, they install frames for various purposes, attach furniture and interior items to the surface of walls, fix household appliances at the required installation location, and also solve a whole list of other important tasks.
What is the difference between a dowel for concrete and a dowel for brick?
High reliability of fastening obtained using dowel-type products will be achieved only if they are correctly selected not only taking into account their size, but also the material of the structure in which they will be mounted.
Experts do not recommend using concrete dowels for installation in brick building structures. This recommendation is especially relevant when it comes to hollow bricks. In this case, special fasteners are used for installation, which differ from a conventional dowel-nail both in design and in the features of use.
Masonry fasteners have extended dimensions and a double thrust mechanism. Like a dowel designed for concrete work, such a fastener can be plastic or metal. The reliability of fastening a brick dowel is ensured by the fact that at least one of its spacer elements does not fall into the cavity in the brickwork, but into its solid part; it is this that ensures the required fixation of the anchor in the wall or any other building structure. The expansion of the dowel spacer sleeve occurs when a threaded rod or screw is screwed into it, the diameter of which must be selected correctly.
A dowel intended for concrete works on a completely different principle and can only be used for installation in solid solid materials. Such a dowel is driven under pressure (which is why it is often called a nail) into a previously prepared hole. If you try to fix concrete fasteners in a brick wall, the internal structure of which has many air cavities, you can simply destroy the mounting hole. Even if such a dowel is metal and has a considerable length, you still will not achieve reliable fixation in brick or any other porous, hollow and not very durable material.
Considering all of the above, you should take a very responsible approach to the selection of fastening elements for structures made of various materials, differing both in their hardness and the characteristics of their internal structure. The markings applied by manufacturers on the packaging of such products helps to understand what a particular fastener is intended for.
Rules for installing dowels for brickwork
Considering the fact that installing a dowel fastener intended for brick is somewhat more difficult than fixing a dowel used for concrete work in a wall, you should understand this procedure in more detail. In this situation, it is very useful to take advantage of the experience of specialists, who are often faced with the need to securely fix objects that have even very significant weight on brick building structures.
If in order to fix a dowel for concrete work in a building structure, which is driven in like a simple nail, it is enough to use a minimal set of tools, then to accurately and securely fix the fastener in a brick wall you will need:
- a hammer drill or drill needed to drill a mounting hole;
- drill of the appropriate diameter;
- adhesive intended for laying ceramic tiles;
- a set of rubber spatulas of different sizes.
The procedure for installing a dowel into a brick wall consists of the following steps.
- The first thing to do is to carefully drill a mounting hole for mounting the fastener. This can be done using an electric drill or hammer drill with only drilling mode (no impact) turned on. It is important that the diameter of the drill used to perform this procedure exactly matches the diameter of the dowel itself.
- After drilling, the hole must be thoroughly cleaned of construction dust and pieces of material that have crumbled into its internal cavity. You can check how thoroughly you have cleaned the hole using the dowel itself: it should fit in without difficulty or obstacles.
- When the hole is thoroughly cleaned, you can begin work with dry tile adhesive, which must be diluted with water in the proportion specified by the manufacturer. After the adhesive mass is ready for use, it is necessary to fill the hole drilled for the dowel. You can use a rubber spatula for this, and you can push the adhesive mass into the depth of the hole using the dowel itself or an ordinary pencil. When the hole is completely filled with adhesive, you can insert a dowel into it, which should go into it all the way. After this, you need to let the adhesive composition completely harden, which is quite enough for 24 hours.
- After the tile adhesive has completely hardened, you can screw a threaded element (pin or screw) into the dowel. In this case, be sure to pay attention to the fact that screwing occurs with some force. This means that your dowel is securely fixed into the brickwork. Fasteners obtained using this simple technology are highly reliable and can withstand even significant weight loads.
You can also use this method if you need to install fasteners in a porous material (the use of concrete dowels for such structures is also prohibited). Such materials, in particular, can be gas or foam concrete, porous brick, etc. Taking into account their high popularity in the modern construction market, the choice of fasteners that could ensure reliable fastening of objects fixed on such structures is a rather serious problem.
Nails, screws, studs, nuts, dowels... You cannot do without fastening hardware either in construction, or in production, or in everyday life. The dowel-nail is one of the most popular products in this group, since it provides reliable fastening when connecting various structures to concrete, brick and other types of bases.
What is a dowel-nail and its varieties
According to the technology of installation and purpose, dowel-nails are divided into two main types:
- For driving by hand. The product is made from a special nail and the dowel itself. Models can be equipped with a locking edge and have a spacer zone. During the process of driving a nail, the spacer elements create a rigid and reliable fixation of the attached object to the base structure. Dowels are used during finishing work when fastening lightweight structures made of wood, plastic and other materials.
- For a construction pistol. Mounting dowel-nails for professional tools consist of a nail with a wide head and a movable washer located in the tip area. Used when mounting massive heavy structures.
Dowels are represented by plastic and metal products. A specific option is chosen depending on the degree of hardness of the base material.
To make a synthetic body, polyethylene, polypropylene, and polyamide are used; nails are made from steel alloys with a protective galvanized layer. They are suitable for mounting light and small elements.
Metal dowel-nails for concrete are used when connecting heavy and complex structural elements is required. The basis of the fastening is a powerful rod with a pointed end, which is equipped with a lock washer. The presence of a massive head on the nail prevents it from sinking deep into the base. High-strength steel grades are used to make nails. Metal dowel-nails with threaded rods or bolts are produced for structures that have a particularly large mass (up to 5 tons).
A conventional dowel sample is not suitable for fixing to surfaces made of hollow bricks and cellular concrete, as well as materials with similar structures, since the spacer element is not fixed in the body of such structures. But special modifications of products have been developed and produced, aimed at fastening in aerated concrete and even in plasterboard sheathing. They have a large thread on the spacer body, and the tip is made in the form of a feathery drill. It is convenient to use such fasteners; they are simply screwed into the structure with a screwdriver without pre-drilling holes.
Manufacturers also produce facade dowels designed specifically for fixing the thermal insulation layer. Such products are equipped with a toothed plate at the base.
In addition to the usual universal fasteners, such a new product as an injection dowel has appeared on the market. They use it as follows. A special anchor in the form of a mesh is inserted into the drilled hole, a dowel is driven in, and a composition is injected through the sleeve using a syringe, which quickly hardens and exerts pressure, as a result of which the mesh in the body of the structure straightens.
How to drive a dowel into a brick structure or concrete
Installation of manual dowels is absolutely simple. It consists of the following sequential operations:
- Drilling holes at attachment points. The drill must match the diameter of the dowel. The holes are made with a depth equal to the length of the fastening element plus 5 mm.
- Removing any remaining material from the hole.
- Installing the dowel into the prepared cavity. By hitting it lightly with a hammer, it is gradually immersed into the hole. The part should fit tightly to its walls.
- nail. If it has a thread, then screw the nail in using a screwdriver.
When using a mounting gun, there is no need to make holes in the wall. It is used to shoot a dowel-nail through the structure being fixed, securely fixing it to the base surface. This method not only speeds up and simplifies the work, but also eliminates dust and debris that appears when working with a drill or hammer drill.
What factors are taken into account when choosing products?
When choosing fastenings, focus on the following points:
- The magnitude of the load directly on the dowel-nail, the base structure and the mounted element.
- The nature of the load, which can be stationary or dynamic.
- Type and properties of the material (brick, stone, concrete, aerated concrete and others).
- Fixation type.
- Type of structure (ceiling, load-bearing walls, partitions).
Standard sizes
When choosing a fastener, an important role is played by its dimensions, which are marked with a digital designation. The first number indicates the diameter of the product in millimeters, the second - its length. The variability of these parameters is quite large: from 5×25 to 10×160. Each dowel-nail option has maximum load restrictions.
Various parameters and technical characteristics of dowels are regulated by GOST 28457-90. Some changes in technical specifications are allowed, but there are standards and regulations that must be strictly observed. These include:
- production material;
- minimum and maximum value of rod curvature indicators;
- the thickness of the protective galvanized layer that covers the nail;
- compliance with the standards of misalignment of the rod and washer diameter.
Changes in other characteristics specified in GOST are permissible if justified and verified technical conditions exist.
The most popular among consumers are nylon dowels of different diameters (2 - 16 mm) with threads. They are used for standard base surfaces made of brick and concrete. They can easily withstand stationary loads ranging from 200 to 450 kg.
When mounting a profile, the best option is considered to be fasteners of size 6×40 mm. To fix various objects to wall and ceiling structures in large-panel houses, it is recommended to use dowel-nails 6×60, 60×80 mm.
How to pull out a dowel
Apartment renovations necessarily include wall finishing: plastering, wallpapering. Before starting such work, you should clean the surface of protruding nails and dowels. In the case where the dowels protrude from the body of the wall along with the nail, such an operation is not difficult. First, the fasteners are loosened and then sharply pulled out of the structure with pliers.
Often, owners are faced with the fact that structures previously attached to the wall have long been removed, the nails have fallen out, but the plastic elements remain. To remove them, you can act in various ways. For example, screw in a self-tapping screw of suitable diameter and try to perform actions similar to the previous method. Or try to drill it out with a drill. But often such maneuvers do not lead to the desired result: the dowel is not removed. Builders often leave the plastic element, driving it into the wall, after cutting off the cap, and then putty the surface.
There are situations when a nail breaks when driven into a concrete wall and partially remains in the dowel. How to be in this case? You will need a soldering iron or gas torch. The plastic element of the dowel is heated so that it becomes soft, plastic, and the fasteners are pulled out until the polyethylene hardens again. It is not always possible to achieve the desired result the first time, so the operation can be repeated again and again.
A huge range of different types and sizes of dowel nails allows you to use them for various purposes. And make reliable fastening of metal structures or wooden beams to concrete, brickwork, fix plaster mesh, mounting strip, plinth and many other elements.